Take a look at post 16 on
this thread. It is a list of towns with indications of albergue, hotel, etc.
I was in Lisbon this fall for work and was able to walk from Lisbon to Tomar on days off.
Day 1 - Lisbon to Vila Franca de Xira
Day 2 - Vila Franca to Valada
Day 3 - Valada to Santarém
Day 4 - Santarém to Golegã
Day 5 - Golegã to Tomar
I know there are many who don’t like Lisbon to Porto, but I have walked from Lisbon to Santiago (2008?) and was happy to be able to go back to the early stages this year. I think in part it depends on what you are looking for.
The Caminho out of Lisbon has been totally re-routed and is now on a riverside boardwalk for nearly all of the 35 kms between Lisbon and Vila Franca, at least once you get through Lisbon (which is, imho, a very nice walk through the old parts of town, and then along the river). I believe that is the stretch
@alexwalker is describing, though there is one more short road stretch going into, I think, Azambuja. But there have been a lot of changes, and an increase in pilgrims, in the last 10 years.
It is true that the countryside from Lisbon to Porto is not “spectacular” in the common sense of the word, but I enjoyed every step. People working in the fields who were happy to talk to me with my very bad Portuguese, good food, and a few pilgrims to talk to along the way. I even got to meet
@Friend from Barquinha, who lives about 50 m from the Caminho.
The towns of Santarém, Golegã, and Tomar are all very nice places with interesting churches, praças, and in the case of Tomar, a spectacular monastery/castle. Coimbra, a few stages after Tomar, deserves a full rest day. It has the oldest university in Portugal, an ancient cathedral, lovely river walk, etc.
I walked in October and met at least two or three every day. I went out and back to Lisbon most days, though, so I didn’t stay in the towns at night. But unike when I walked in 2008, the caminho is well known locally, and there are always options for spending the night. This is a relatively untraveled route, so if you are expecting to have three or four albergues in a town, you are going to be disappointed. But I am pretty confident you can find places to stay that will not break the bank and that will not require you to walk 35 kms. The infrastructure is increasing as the numbers do, but Lisbon to Porto is not anywhere near as traveled as from Porto north. For me, that’s a benefit!
The Igreja de Santiago had nothing to do with promoting the resurgence of interest and marking of the Caminho from Lisbon. I have never been by when it’s open, and I don’t think they have credentials. The Cathedral has had credentials available for years now, and the arrows start at the Cathedral, so it just makes sense. The Igreja de Santiago is about a 3 minute walk from the Cathedral though, so you can easily start there.