LIVE from the Camino AG on the Salvador and Primitivo

[Albertagirl]

Autumn on the Salvador appears to have ended. I walked yesterday, Leon to La Robla, and found it tedious at times, and needing more climbing than anticipated. But today has been heavy rain and cold for most of the day. I am wrapped in a thick blanket, hiding out for the rest of the day in Pension El Arenal in La Pola de Gordon as my clothes dry and I wonder if I shall be wet through again before I can reach a nearby restaurant for dinner. I have walked the Invierno in rain, but it was nothing like this. I have time to make what progress I can from day to day, but I shall hope for better weather as I try to make it to Oviedo, then on to Santiago.

 

[jungleboy]

Oh no, sorry to hear that. Fingers crossed for better weather soon!

 

[Albertagirl]

I just turned on the television screen, and what instantly flashed on the screen was 1 degree C. Maybe I shall be able to stay dry if it snows. And I have noticed that most towns and villages in this part of Spain have Alsa bus service. I cannot control the weather, but I shall run away from it if necessary. There are other caminos to walk.

 

[J Willhaus]

Yes, I read this morning about a terrible storm in Spain. Galicia was pretty hard hit with lightening and heavy rain and high winds. Stay warm and as dry as you can.

 

[Albertagirl]

I have resolved to take your advice to stay warm and dry and to skip dinner this evening. I walked to the local restaurant to ask about dinner and was told that there will be no food or information about dinner until 8 pm. That's the predicted time for a storm. I would prefer to go hungry than to get myself and my clothes soaked through again. Maybe I shall eat something from the food in my pack and lighten my load.

 

[LavanyaLea]

I hope you get better weather soon! I’m hibernating in Galicia now post Salvador/Primitivo and yes there was heavy rain and lightning this morning, quite windy too, but the afternoon was dry and I even put my laundry out and they were dry when I put them back in!

I found that Leon had a bit of desert weather situation, I started on 25th Sept, it was 5-7C in the morning and by midday was in the mid 20s. There will be less variation in the temperature during the day as you walk north. But the mountain stages would be best done in better weather, I don’t mind cold or light rain, but don’t like heavy rain plus wind!

Not sure where in Spain will have good weather this week to be honest, Sevilla?

 

[Perambulating Griffin]

I have resolved to take your advice to stay warm and dry and to skip dinner this evening. I walked to the local restaurant to ask about dinner and was told that there will be no food or information about dinner until 8 pm. That's the predicted time for a storm. I would prefer to go hungry than to get myself and my clothes soaked through again. Maybe I shall eat something from the food in my pack and lighten my load.

Oh my goodness! I was just there 3 weeks ago in t-shirt weather! You are likely asleep now, but a trick for staying warm in albergues that may not be turning on the heat very much or at all is to put hot water in your water bottle(s) and put it inside your sleep gear. Also useful to carry if it's going to be cold on your next day. The climb out of Buiza is pretty intense so if there is snow or cold... and then there is the general Wise Pilgrim warning about the danger zone (weather, and you'll need food and water etc for a very tough 7.9 km from Poladura de Tercia before Pajares....).
You seem wise and able... but do keep us posted. That's a very, very tough route in the best conditions!

 

[Albertagirl]

I am heading for Oviedo on the train and shall not return until there's better weather in the mountains. I hope to be able to enjoy both city and mountains before I head for Santiago on the Primitivo. I don't enjoy walking in really bad weather and I don't think it is safe. As an alternative, I shall spend a week or so in Oviedo seeing the historical sites and waiting for the weather to improve.

 

[LavanyaLea]

I am heading for Oviedo on the train and shall not return until there's better weather in the mountains. I hope to be able to enjoy both city and mountains before I head for Santiago on the Primitivo. I don't enjoy walking in really bad weather and I don't think it is safe. As an alternative, I shall spend a week or so in Oviedo seeing the historical sites and waiting for the weather to improve.

I really enjoyed Oviedo, the Asturians are very fun people! We were having dinner at a restaurant when they started singing the Asturian hymn! Random

Do you know if you will be able to find enough albergues that are open on the Primitivo in November?

 

[Albertagirl]

I really enjoyed Oviedo, the Asturians are very fun people! We were having dinner at a restaurant when they started singing the Asturian hymn! Random

Do you know if you will be able to find enough albergues that are open on the Primitivo in November?

I hope so. I have a recent guidebook. But there are no guarantees. I have been on the Salvador with more basic supplies and more challenging terrain. But some albergues have expressed an intention to close There are no guarantees.

 

[philbus65]

I hope so. I have a recent guidebook. But there are no guarantees. I have been on the Salvador with more basic supplies and more challenging terrain. But some albergues have expressed an intention to close There are no guarantees.

Perfect weather on the Primitivo today (left Oviedo this morning). Take advantage while you can!

Finished the San Salvadore yesterday....had one wet day but was lucky the worst of it stayed closer to Leon)

 

[peregrina2000]

For those worried about the weather, it looks like it just depends on luck. Álvaro Lazaga started the Salvador (youtube video here) from León today and had, in his words “cuatro gotas” (four drops) of rain. He is in La Robla. If you watch the video, don’t think that his use of the words “hospitalero” and “albergue” mean that the La Robla albergue is open. He is referring to a friend who has opened his home to him and the other two walking with him.

 

[Albertagirl]

For those worried about the weather, it looks like it just depends on luck. Álvaro Lazaga started the Salvador (youtube video here) from León today and had, in his words “cuatro gotas” (four drops) of rain. He is in La Robla. If you watch the video, don’t think that his use of the words “hospitalero” and “albergue” mean that the La Robla albergue is open. He is referring to a friend who has opened his home to him and the other two walking with him.

I am really reluctant to try to move on in the currently forecast weather. Walking in the mountains, soaked through and freezing, seems miserable and hazardous for a solitary walker. Nonetheless, I plan to return to la Pola de Gordon today. Accommodation is a fraction of the price in the cities and the people are friendly. I have the time to wait for better weather to move on.

 

[peregrina2000]

Nonetheless, I plan to return to la Pola de Gordon today. Accommodation is a fraction of the price in the cities and the people are friendly. I have the time to wait for better weather to move on.

You could also stay in Mieres and take the train in and out of Oviedo. I believe the university dorm, which is offering its rooms to peregrinos till the albergue is built, allows you to stay there multiple days. Good luck AG.

 

[Albertagirl]

At the moment I am observing heavy rain and strong winds from the windows of my room in la Pola de Gordon and am soon to go out to look through the two grocery stores in town, which apparently open at 5 pm on Saturday. My intention is to compile a grocery list which can provide me with food for several days of walking through villages where I must provide, and cook, my own food in the albergues. It must not be too heavy to carry: memories of my camping days. If I am going to finish this walk, I must plan.
There will be time before the rain stops to make friends with the people who manage the Pension and the woman who provides dinner in the Meson at 8 each evening. Since I cannot immediately walk on, I am resolved to learn what I can from this place and the people in it. And to get some rest, and maybe tidy up my gear.
Mary Louise

 

[Sitkapilgrim]

At the moment I am observing heavy rain and strong winds from the windows of my room in la Pola de Gordon and am soon to go out to look through the two grocery stores in town, which apparently open at 5 pm on Saturday. My intention is to compile a grocery list which can provide me with food for several days of walking through villages where I must provide, and cook, my own food in the albergues. It must not be too heavy to carry: memories of my camping days. If I am going to finish this walk, I must plan.
There will be time before the rain stops to make friends with the people who manage the Pension and the woman who provides dinner in the Meson at 8 each evening. Since I cannot immediately walk on, I am resolved to learn what I can from this place and the people in it. And to get some rest, and maybe tidy up my gear.
Mary Louise

I sympathize.
I currently am on the Olvidado a few days east of you, and may never see anything other than rain and clouds. Clearly I can’t walk any of stages involving exposed mountainous routes.
On stage 6, between Arija and Olea, 3 days ago, the route involves climbing up to 1000 meters to a high exposed mountain top. I recognized it was very windy climbing. I was even in touch with a local member of the pilgrim association, telling him how windy it was. I was following Ender’s new variant designed to decrease asphalt walking that day. The top was so exposed I would have been blown over multiple times if I hadn’t had 2 good walking sticks. I even considered crawling. I was constantly being blown sideways. I have experienced strong winds on the Primitivo and the Frances, but never anything like this.
It was quite sobering.
Now when the weather report says “severe wind warning” I know what it means.
Best to stay put, though the weather report does not look promising any time soon.

 

[Albertagirl]

@Sitkapilgrim
I am not familiar with the Camino Olvidado. But I did see an unexpected sign of it this afternoon. I had walked up the hill in front of the pension where I am staying, to see what direction route markings might give me as to where the Salvador was going next. There were some customary markings for the Salvador, but among them I saw what appeared to be an identical sign, except that the word on the sign was Olvidado, not Salvador.

 

[Sitkapilgrim]

@Sitkapilgrim
I am not familiar with the Camino Olvidado. But I did see an unexpected sign of it this afternoon. I had walked up the hill in front of the pension where I am staying, to see what direction route markings might give me as to where the Salvador was going next. There were some customary markings for the Salvador, but among them I saw what appeared to be an identical sign, except that the word on the sign was Olvidado, not Salvador.

I learned of the Olvidado when I walked the Salvador in 2018. I met Enders (Señor Cuñarro) whose Salvador guide you may be using, and he told me my next camino should be the Olvidado. He handed me a pamphlet on it, and I carried that pamphlet all the way home. He has a guide for the Olvidado similar to his on the Salvador, and has worked hard strengthening supports for both caminos.
The Olvidado runs from Bilbao to the Frances at Villafranca del Bierzo and intersects with the Salvador at Buiza, La Robla and La Pola de Gordon. I think I have that right.

 

[Colette Z]

I just turned on the television screen, and what instantly flashed on the screen was 1 degree C. Maybe I shall be able to stay dry if it snows. And I have noticed that most towns and villages in this part of Spain have Alsa bus service. I cannot control the weather, but I shall run away from it if necessary. There are other caminos to walk.

Ok I’m here now reading. Colette

 

[AlanSykes]

The Olvidado runs from Bilbao to the Frances at Villafranca del Bierzo and intersects with the Salvador at Buiza, La Robla and La Pola de Gordon. I think I have that right.

I stayed in La Pola de Gordón (Pensión 15 de Mayo, perfectly decent) before doing la reina de las étapas on the Olvidado, possibly of any camino I've walked, La Pola de Gordón to La Magdalena. It goes up to 1670m near the Pico de Santiago and then through the spectacular Desfiladero de los Calderones canyon. Just fantastic.

 

[Colette Z]

For those worried about the weather, it looks like it just depends on luck. Álvaro Lazaga started the Salvador (youtube video

For those worried about the weather, it looks like it just depends on luck. Álvaro Lazaga started the Salvador (youtube video here) from León today and had, in his words “cuatro gotas” (four drops) of rain. He is in La Robla. If you watch the video, don’t think that his use of the words “hospitalero” and “albergue” mean that the La Robla albergue is open. He is referring to a friend who has opened his home to him and the other two walking with him.

I met these 3 at the San Marcos square where I started with another Spanish pilgrim I met in the train. We met them various times throughout the day and in La Robla. They went in to Parsjes today accompanied by Jose Antonio Cunarro whereas we made it to Poladura de Tercia in fog, heavy rain and wind gusts of 80 km/hr. Jose came to meet me in P Tercia and encouraged me and an Australian man walking with us to do the 14 km to Pajares tomorrow despite the forecast. Thereafter onwards to Oviedo. Rain is rain.

 

[Colette Z]

I stayed in La Pola de Gordón (Pensión 15 de Mayo, perfectly decent) before doing la reina de las étapas on the Olvidado, possibly of any camino I've walked, La Pola de Gordón to La Magdalena. It goes up to 1670m near the Pico de Santiago and then through the spectacular Desfiladero de los Calderones canyon. Just fantastic.

View attachment 135401

Oh sorry you couldn’t come to Poladura de Tercia and cross over with us to Pajares. I’m sure the weather will improve Monday for your Olvidado.

 

[El Cascayal]

For those worried about the weather, it looks like it just depends on luck. Álvaro Lazaga started the Salvador (youtube video here) from León today and had, in his words “cuatro gotas” (four drops) of rain. He is in La Robla. If you watch the video, don’t think that his use of the words “hospitalero” and “albergue” mean that the La Robla albergue is open. He is referring to a friend who has opened his home to him and the other two walking with him.

I can’t believe Alvaro is doing the Salvador again! He was just there at the beginning of the year sloshing through the snow and sliding on his rear end in the sleet and rivers as posted on his YouTube videos. Madre mía, what a San Salvador diehard!
We had pelting freezing rain September 29th of this year in the etapa Pajares to Bendueños, heavy rain, like in the tropics, with lots of mud and treacherous descents. We had to hold on to the roots on the walls of the descents as poles were rendered less useful as there was no firm footing. Still the scenery and the walk was stunning!

 

[Albertagirl]

I don't think I am going anywhere today except maybe along the road to church and wherever I can find a restaurant open. The weather forecast for la Pola de Gordon is for a severe wind warning (danger to life and limb) and a moderate rain warning. The rain warning appears to continue for the next ten days. I am wondering what I am doing here. It doesn't seem like I shall be walking the Salvador anytime soon. Any hopeful comments?

 

[Colette Z]

Good morning, Mary Louise this is bad luck for everyone as only southern caminos are dry. I take it one day at a time. I wouldn’t contemplate starting the Olvidado in rain. Today there are winds but rain is not like yesterday. The Australian 52 year old firefighter agreed to walk with me to Pajares today instead of going alone himself like yesterday. Jose Antonio the guide author met us yesterday and reassured us we can make it without problem to Pajares today. We will let the hospitalera Marisa in Pajares municipal know we are on our way at 9am. We should need 4-5 hours. The descent will be slow so as not to slip. I’m a bit nervous but will take it step by step. The weather will improve slowly over the next few days. As soon as I’m down from higher elevation I will feel better I am not, unlike you, a mountain person. You could join me in Pola de LENA the place I plan to sleep (Oct 24) and we could walk to Mieres then next day to Oviedo. Both Pola Lena and Mieres have municipales or the university private rooms (latter for 20€). Take note that I will not log on today after 8 am until I arrive in Pajares. God bless and please pray for me today.

 

[Albertagirl]

I have posted the weather forecast for la Pola de Gordon today on my camino thread . It is about as bad as it could be for here, so I hope that it is better where you are. It sounds like you have a good companion to walk with and a fairly short day to walk. I shall consider meeting you in Pola de Lena tomorrow, as the long term forecast for la Pola de Gordon is still negative and walking the Salvador seems increasingly less probable for me. There is a church service here today and I shall pray for you there. God bless.

 

[Colette Z]

Thank you I’ll check in upon arrival today.

 

[El Cascayal]

The university rooms in Mieres are like a 5 star hotel. Linens, towels, desk, loads of electric plugs, your own window, spacious private bathroom, storage galore, laundromat, kitchen, dining room, elevator. It is close to several supermarkets and plenty of eating options.
The closest bridge from the Camino to la residencia universitaria de Mieres is under repairs, so you must walk further to the next bridge which allows you a small jaunt through Mieres.
I loved staying here and found it very conducive to thinking and resting. The university kids were super. It was a special treat and I’d love to stay here again.

 

[peregrina2000]

Such bad luck. I’m glad to see everyone is safe and sound. Maybe heading south is not such a bad idea. Mozárabe, anyone?

 

[Albertagirl]

Such bad luck. I’m glad to see everyone is safe and sound. Maybe heading south is not such a bad idea. Mozárabe, anyone?

I am heading for Pola de Lena on the train tomorrow morning, arriving a little before noon. Hopefully there will be a tourist office where I can ask about access to Santa Christina de Lena, located, according to maps.me, about three kilometres before the train station in Pola de Lena. I should like to get inside to look around. Regardless, I plan on walking there, or taking a taxi, and spending some time learning what it has to show me about early Christianity in this place. I should prefer to walk there.

 

[BombayBill]

I have posted the weather forecast for la Pola de Gordon today on my camino thread . It is about as bad as it could be for here, so I hope that it is better where you are. It sounds like you have a good companion to walk with and a fairly short day to walk. I shall consider meeting you in Pola de Lena tomorrow, as the long term forecast for la Pola de Gordon is still negative and walking the Salvador seems increasingly less probable for me. There is a church service here today and I shall pray for you there. God bless.

I am heading for Pola de Lena on the train tomorrow morning, arriving a little before noon. Hopefully there will be a tourist office where I can ask about access to Santa Christina de Lena, located, according to maps.me, about three kilometres before the train station in Pola de Lena. I should like to get inside to look around. Regardless, I plan on walking there, or taking a taxi, and spending some time learning what it has to show me about early Christianity in this place. I should prefer to walk there.

Good decision. As an experienced walker from the Rockies you wouldn’t be missing much by skipping the Salvador due to weather. The highlight is the pass but your views would have been obscured. It’s a great deal of effort for a 2-3 hours of sightseeing from the pass. Sorry for the disappointment but to paraphrase “there are bold hikers and old hikers, but few bold old hikers”. Your common sense and perseverance is admirable.

PS To clarify the paraphrase above - it originally applied to pilots, meaning the reckless seldom have the opportunity to grow old.

 

[El Cascayal]

“there are bold hikers and old hikers, but few bold old hikers”.

Bombay Bill, calling Mary Louise BOLD! Amen to that. Please share some pictures if you go inside.

 

[Albertagirl]

Bombay Bill, calling Mary Louise BOLD! Amen to that. Please share some pictures if you go inside.

Well, he also called me "old" which is quite accurate. I don't really remember whether I told him about meeting the same grizzly bear in Banff Park twice in one day, so that might account for the second label as I saw no need to share the lunch which I was eating with the grizzly just because he sauntered past my picnic table at lunch time.

 

[MarkyD]

Autumn on the Salvador appears to have ended. I walked yesterday, Leon to La Robla, and found it tedious at times, and needing more climbing than anticipated. But today has been heavy rain and cold for most of the day. I am wrapped in a thick blanket, hiding out for the rest of the day in Pension El Arenal in La Pola de Gordon as my clothes dry and I wonder if I shall be wet through again before I can reach a nearby restaurant for dinner. I have walked the Invierno in rain, but it was nothing like this. I have time to make what progress I can from day to day, but I shall hope for better weather as I try to make it to Oviedo, then on to Santiago.

Crossing the northern mountains of Spain at this time of year is likely to be a wet experience, but it sounds like you got absolutely drenched.
We can but imagine how traditional farming communities would have coped with such downpours while tending to sheep or cattle in those areas.
It would be a great area to test different ponchos for hiking! Although, personally, I would prefer walking in dry weather, especially while navigating along hillside slopes and through mountain passes.

 

[Albertagirl]

As for sharing photos, my absolute favourite of all time is the photo above, my camino photo,which shows me against one of the most beautiful scenes in the Rocky Mountains. Just finger it larger to see me totally content in a mountain scene. But it wasn't raining at the time.

 

[LavanyaLea]

Hopefully there will be a tourist office where I can ask about access to Santa Christina de Lena, located, according to maps.me, about three kilometres before the train station in Pola de Lena. I should like to get inside to look around.

Santa Cristina is closed on Mondays, which I think is when you’re planning to visit (tomorrow)? Otherwise opening hours are:

Winter:
11:30am-1:00pm and 4:30pm-6:00pm

Summer:
11:00am-1:00pm and 4:30pm-6:30pm

Navarre/Aragones/Catalunya or the South of Spain seem to have sun!!!

Good luck in whatever you decide to do

 

[Albertagirl]

Santa Cristina is closed on Mondays, which I think is when you’re planning to visit (tomorrow)? Otherwise opening hours are:

Winter:
11:30am-1:00pm and 4:30pm-6:00pm

Summer:
11:00am-1:00pm and 4:30pm-6:30pm

Navarre/Aragones/Catalunya or the South of Spain seem to have sun!!!

Good luck in whatever you decide to do

Well, I shall be going to the pilgrim albergue first, to leave my bag before walking to Santa Cristina, so I suppose I shall decide then whether to go to Santa Cristina to view the outside only or to stay for another day, depending on the weather and the forecast. I might compromise by taking a taxi to the church if the forecast is as awful as recently. I doubt if I would ever return.

 

[MarkyD]

Such bad luck. I’m glad to see everyone is safe and sound. Maybe heading south is not such a bad idea. Mozárabe, anyone?

Yes, I agree, I have just finished a section of the Camino Mozárabe from Almería to Granada. For 6 out of the 9 days it was blazing sunshine at 30°C, then I had three cooler days of around 23°c with the occasional light showers that barely lasted 5 minutes. You'll get some hill walking on that route for sure, and the views are absolutely gorgeous:

 

[Albertagirl]

I don't know which I dislike more: pouring rain and freezing when walking or 30 degrees heat. On balance, I suppose that I could run from one to the other- never comfortable. For now, I shall see whatever I am experiencing as my fate and just try to survive. But I probably should have gone south this year.

 

[MarkyD]

I don't know which I dislike more: pouring rain and freezing when walking or 30 degrees heat. On balance, I suppose that I could run from one to the other- never comfortable. For now, I shall see whatever I am experiencing as my fate and just try to survive. But I probably should have gone south this year.

Yeah, the heat of "Lorenzo" was a bit of a beast at times, especially with there being little shade for large parts of each stage.
Oh well, such is the Camino we walk, perhaps never what we actually want, but mostly what we need.

"May the road rise up to meet you.

May the wind be always at your back.

May the sun shine warm upon your face;

the rains fall soft upon your fields and until we meet again,

may God hold you in the palm of His hand"

 

[Albertagirl]

Today is a perfect day for walking: cool and breezy. I left the student dorm in Mieres where I stayed last night and am now more than halfway to Oviedo, where I shall spend tonight in a pilgrim albergue. This is hilly and interesting territory - and it isn't raining!

 

[jungleboy]

Today is a perfect day for walking: cool and breezy. I left the student dorm in Mieres where I stayed last night and am now more than halfway to Oviedo, where I shall spend tonight in a pilgrim albergue. This is hilly and interesting territory - and it isn't raining!

So glad that you are finally able to walk after all the weather delays!

 

[Albertagirl]

So glad that you are finally able to walk after all the weather delays!

Yesterday was a challenging day to walk, much of it on secondary highways leading west from Oviedo towards Santiago on the Primitivo route. I finally realized that maps.me was not working properly and was leading me off~route repeatedly. So I was walking much farther than I intended and on some unsafe routes. There I was, late in the evening and exhausted, trying to train myself to use Google maps and find a place to stay for the night. Eventually I settled in at a private albergue in Paladin, a tiny hamlet a few kilometres short of Grado, where I had intended to spend the night. I was the only pilgrim in the albergue. Now it's early morning, still pitch dark. I may stay for the 9 o'clock breakfast, as the manager here is a skilled cook and I shall need the energy. Wish me well on this next pilgrim adventure.

 

[jungleboy]

Now it's early morning, still pitch dark.

At least from tomorrow the mornings will be lighter (daylight savings ends tonight).

Ultreia peregrina!

 

[OzAnnie]

At least from tomorrow the mornings will be lighter (daylight savings ends tonight).

Ultreia peregrina!

Thanks for the reminder - I knew it was close.

 

[dbier]

Dr Google has just informed me that, indeed, DST ends in Spain tomorrow.

(In the US, it's Nov 6th;/

 

[LavanyaLea]

I finally realized that maps.me was not working properly and was leading me off~route repeatedly.

If you had previously downloaded Camino Ninja, I found it’s one of the fastest gps tracking app showing the Camino route. However it doesn’t show variations/alternatives… (maybe it does on other caminos but not on the Primitivo). For example, when arriving in Cornellana, there is the option to go straight to monastery vs going through town, and Ninja only went straight to monastery.

Buen Camino has all the dangerous crossing warnings, route variations/alternatives including all the excellent Roman temples etc… so I was flickering between Ninja and Buen Camino, as well as my own homemade GPX track that is showing the route on my watch.

Eventually I settled in at a private albergue in Paladin, a tiny hamlet a few kilometres short of Grado, where I had intended to spend the night.

Because you’re in Paladin tonight, tomorrow you may choose to stay at the monastery in Cornellana (18km)! It was too short a day for me after staying in Grado, and too long for a first day from Oviedo, although I know someone who did that.

Or if you want to do more than 18km, I had coffee at the albergue in Casazorrina just before Salas, and it was such a lovely place. The building is set a little back from the entry gate, which is right on the Camino. And they have a lovely garden, lovely terrace with hammocks, swing chairs, table footie etc. I later met 2 pilgrims who stayed there and they liked it so much they stayed for 2 nights (well they crossed from del Norte, so they’ve been walking for a while!).

 

[Albertagirl]

If you had previously downloaded Camino Ninja, I found it’s one of the fastest gps tracking app showing the Camino route. However it doesn’t show variations/alternatives… (maybe it does on other caminos but not on the Primitivo). For example, when arriving in Cornellana, there is the option to go straight to monastery vs going through town, and Ninja only went straight to monastery.

Buen Camino has all the dangerous crossing warnings, route variations/alternatives including all the excellent Roman temples etc… so I was flickering between Ninja and Buen Camino, as well as my own homemade GPX track that is showing the route on my watch.

Because you’re in Paladin tonight, tomorrow you may choose to stay at the monastery in Cornellana (18km)! It was too short a day for me after staying in Grado, and too long for a first day from Oviedo, although I know someone who did that.

Or if you want to do more than 18km, I had coffee at the albergue in Casazorrina just before Salas, and it was such a lovely place. The building is set a little back from the entry gate, which is right on the Camino. And they have a lovely garden, lovely terrace with hammocks, swing chairs, table footie etc. I later met 2 pilgrims who stayed there and they liked it so much they stayed for 2 nights (well they crossed from del Norte, so they’ve been walking for a while!).

I have been struggling to post anything on the forum for the last day or two: no idea why. I am now at the monastery in Cornellana, after a second wet and challenging walk yesterday, ending in a dangerous downclimb. A pilgrim who arrived at the monastery after me inquired whether I had any problems on that section and I said that indeed I did: a steep and rocky surface made very slippery by rain. I now have no idea where I shall be going to today. Time to get up, with yesterday's time change.

 

[Corned Beef]

Salas (10k) ? or La Espina (16K)? Looks like it is all uphill.

What's the forecast?

 

[Albertagirl]

Salas (10k) ? or La Espina (16K)? Looks like it is all uphill.

What's the forecast?

Cool, cloudy with showers every second day. But that is just in Salas. I shall be moving on every day.

 

[Albertagirl]

Monday morning early, just about time to get up. I slept in a donativo albergue in La Espinoza: just me and five men. I have not yet decided where to stay tonight. I am beginning to wish for a private room in a hotel, but most of the hotels seem to have closed. My plan at present is just to keep on trucking: 20 km/day until I get to Santiago, to stay safe and warm and enjoy the scenery.

 

[LavanyaLea]

Monday morning early, just about time to get up. I slept in a donativo albergue in La Espinoza: just me and five men. I have not yet decided where to stay tonight. I am beginning to wish for a private room in a hotel, but most of the hotels seem to have closed. My plan at present is just to keep on trucking: 20 km/day until I get to Santiago, to stay safe and warm and enjoy the scenery.

Is that the one run by Italian couple? We stayed there too! Please give Ghana the dog a big belly rub! Tineo will have privates/hotels/pensions with private rooms, hopefully still open

 

[Albertagirl]

Is that the one run by Italian couple? We stayed there too! Please give Ghana the dog a big belly rub! Tineo will have privates/hotels/pensions with private rooms, hopefully still open

I stayed last night in Albergue El Cruceiro, one of the few (2?) currently open in La Espina. It has no resident dog. I believe that there's a hotel available in Tineo, but that is not far enough for me to walk today. I hope to stretch my walk to 25 km and end up in Campiello, maybe in a hotel.

 

[LavanyaLea]

I stayed last night in Albergue El Cruceiro, one of the few (2?) currently open in La Espina. It has no resident dog. I believe that there's a hotel available in Tineo, but that is not far enough for me to walk today. I hope to stretch my walk to 25 km and end up in Campiello, maybe in a hotel.

Both Casa Ricardo and Herminia have private rooms

 

[Albertagirl]

Bot Casa Ricardo and Herminia have private rooms

I spent the night in the hotel, at great expense and with a non-functioning heating system that I was told provided underfloor heating, which was the reason why I was being charged extra. It was set by a staff member but did not work. Thank heavens for a blanket found in a cupboard, when I could not sleep for the cold. The food served at dinner was dreadful and overcharged. I shall be looking for a bed, preferably a private room, in one of the albergues while I plan my walk for tomorrow, ultimately to walk the Pola de Allende route, as the safer of the two options. Miserable weather has discouraged me on the Primitivo route, which is challenging to try to walk in November.

 

[Albertagirl]

Today was better weather: breezy and sunny. I met many interesting people along the way, including a young couple who had just started an albergue and restaurant business. This was their second day for the restaurant and they were somewhat bewildered by having a vegetarian show up for lunch. But it all went off very well and it was my first day on this camino when I was able to walk the afternoon sustained by a substantial meal for lunch. I was able to encourage them that their excellent meals should bring them success in their new restaurant business.
I walked most of the afternoon with a young Japanese woman who had just arrived in Spain four days ago. This is her first camino and I wonder how she chose the Primitivo. Youth and energy are certainly useful qualities on this camino. I have met many interesting people today and am gradually becoming more social, as I reply to those who seem to desire some company along the trail. I never expected this on the Primitivo. Mostly I just keep on walking and hope that I know where. So far I have not planned ahead, beyond looking for a private room for the night.

 

[Albertagirl]

I am behind on my posts, as walking my distance, booking my daily place to stay and keeping up with the daily chores have taken priority. Today will be the longest day yet, about 26 km from O Cadavo to Lugo, so I really should get up and get moving. The morning forecast is for rain all day. I shall arrive in Lugo as a drowned rat, but with two days in Hotel España to look forward to. And I understand that the walking route levels out from today: no more constant up and down. May it be so.

 

[dbier]

AG, how are you?

 

[Albertagirl]

AG, how are you?

I'm fine. Thanks for asking. I spent three days in Lugo in a comfortable hotel, resting after the long walk from Oviedo and becoming familiar with a fascinating city. I left there yesterday morning, heading for Santiago, on various interesting backcountry routes. I finally spent last night in the albergue "O Candido," luxuriating in a private room with bath (and heating).
This morning I set out again for Santiago, but allowed myself to be distracted by the luxury of a hotel and some great country scenery. I am ahead of schedule for arrival in Santiago and back-country luxury is available for a discount. However, I shall be
bedded down in San Martin Pinario by the end of the month, with three days to enjoy it before heading for home. At present it is not raining here and it's bitter cold in Calgary, so I have nothing to complain of.

 

[J Willhaus]

Just as a question @Albertagirl
I notice that last few years you have made your trips in the late fall/early winter. Is there a specific reason you chose this timeframe? We've been to Spain a few times in the summer and a few times in the fall/winter. Most of that for us depends on my ability to get away from work (although Phil is retired and can go by himself when/if he wants).

Thinking when I retire in 18 months, we'll be camphosts at national parks in the summers in the US and then do our Caminos and volunteering in Spain after the tourist season in the in the American West is wrapped up. Do you find an advantage to visiting Spain in the late fall/early winter?

 

[Albertagirl]

Just as a question @Albertagirl
I notice that last few years you have made your trips in the late fall/early winter. Is there a specific reason you chose this timeframe? We've been to Spain a few times in the summer and a few times in the fall/winter. Most of that for us depends on my ability to get away from work (although Phil is retired and can go by himself when/if he wants).

Thinking when I retire in 18 months, we'll be camphosts at national parks in the summers in the US and then do our Caminos and volunteering in Spain after the tourist season in the in the American West is wrapped up. Do you find an advantage to visiting Spain in the late fall/early winter?

I go on camino in the autumn because I cannot bear the heat and crowds of late summer or the early autumn. But I may start my camino earlier in the autumn to avoid early albergue closures and the darkness of Spain after the november time change.

 

[J Willhaus]

Agree about the heat and crowds. We like to be there over Christmas to run an albergue at that special time when we are able. (Usually not very many people want to work over that time of year anyway, so getting a volunteer assignment has not been difficult. ) I don't mind the darkness in the mornings, but there are usually two of us walking together which I think makes a difference.

 

[Albertagirl]

It is Friday afternoon and, after a vigorous walk from last night's hotel I have fallen into an adventure. With the encouragement of a Xunta hospitalera whom I met while walking through As Seixas, I seem to have committed myself to spending tonight in her albergue. There's no food available in town but what can be coaxed out of a machine which was loaded with snack foods by the private albergue next door, before it closed for the season. The bread truck might appear eventually (or might not). There are no mantas available for pilgrims and I only have a liner. I have been assured by the hospitalera that the room door will remain shut (I have my own little room) and the heat on. If I wear all my clothes, I should survive the night. I'll let you know tomorrow how it went.

 

[VNwalking]

Buen camino, @ albertagirl!
An adventure for sure. May it be a joyful one.

 

[Albertagirl]

Buen camino, @ albertagirl!
An adventure for sure. May it be a joyful one.

It certainly went much better than I anticipated. All my physical needs were met: mostly by the generosity of the local hospitalera and the food available in the next-door food dispenser. At the last minute the panederia truck arrived and we pilgrims shared what we could find.
The heating system in my little room worked perfectly to keep me warm through the night. Best of all, the Xunta hospitalera and I shared experiences of our duties as hospitaleras caring for pilgrims and discovered that we have a great deal in common.
Now I am in Melide enjoying the luxury of a private room and planning the rest of my camino. Yesterday showed me that sometimes the best caminos are those which arrive as gifts.

 

[dbier]

Was the adventure albergue in As Seixas?

 

[Albertagirl]

Was the adventure albergue in As Seixas?

Yes it was, a Xunta albergue with the usual lack of facilities and no bedding available. All was well, but largely because I was given a small private room with underfloor heating to compensate for the lack of bedding. And the hospitalera gave me some food.

 

[dbier]

Thanks much

 

[Albertagirl]

I am at last approaching Santiago. The last few days have been a struggle with the relentless rain, which has left me with most of my clothing and gear soaked through and reluctant to dry. I spent last night in a comfortable hotel in O Pedrouzo, for a reasonable price, two days walk short of Santiago. I have lots of time to finish the journey, but would like to get dry before going on. If that might be possible. However, it looks like it will rain forever, and I still have lots of time to walk to Santiago when my gear is dry. I think I may avoid late fall caminos in future.