hello laurie!
I did the first part of it, to penalba, two years ago (2009), after the instructions of tomas from manjarin. he draw me a map/sketch with approximate distances and important landmarks, and I didn't have any problems finding my way. this is, however, different from the route rebekah took, which goes from compludo south along the valley to palacios and a village on b then across a ridge to penalba. this is now waymarked, as I understand, and there is a page somewhere on the net, sth about a route aroung ponferrada (she has the link, I can't find it).
I descended to herreria de compludo on the road because the man in el acebo shop said that the path is a bit confusing and very steep. I saw on the bottom some blue arrows pointing up towards el acebo. so maybe it is waymarked?
then the road to compludo (fountain, bar, casa rural) and from there a gravel road right up, signposted espinoso, to espinoso de compludo (fountain, casa rural). this way very hot in the morning sun.
however, visiting herreria, I saw a path and signpost pointing up along the hill towards espinoso, and when I arrived in espinoso, I saw a similar signpost pointing down in the direction of herreria (it had molinos de espinoso written on it). I think this is worth exploring as you would avoid all the road walk and have the morning shade for the 300m plus climb to espinoso.
in the shop in el acebo I found a leaflet for a kind of albergue in espinoso - refugio los hilos, 0696/083-732.
then the part where you are most likely to get a bit lost. leaving espinoso and past the signpost for ponferrada, there is a bend with two roads/tracks going off left, the left going to a house. take the right track which soon passes some fine old trees (chestnuts, if I am not mistaken). then you cross a closed-off pasture and keep to the main track, eventually descending to a stream valley. here you have to turn R before a grove of big trees, to a path that climbs to the ridge ahead. there are plenty of cow paths aroud here, but if you keep to the main one, it should be ok. after the ridge there is another similar valley with similar grove of big trees you have to turn right before. tha path is quite rocky in parts and on top of the second ridge I even found a wooden signpost. then a fine track meanders towards san cristobal that you see ahead.
I came just in time for the bread-van (around noon), and there is a restaurant on the right and a fountain on the left. and casa rural.
turn left uphill on the main road until you reach a water reservoir. veer right here on the second gravel road past a light pole (above a village you can see below in a valley) that is pretty much level but gets you encountered with every nook and crannie of the slopes you cross. it has stupenduous views, though, and at last it drops down to penalba. a couple of streams along.
I stayed in penalba in fine albergue la masera (E15, or E20 with bedding, 6 beds), with a tiny kitchen to make breakfast in the morning (and a small dinner if you are the only one staying) and hospitalera has keys of the church (a must!). unfortunately I don't have the phone number, but the man in the shop in el acebo seemed to know her (I figured that only later, I think her name was pilar).
I needed around 9h for the route.
from penalba I went to ponferrada on blue-red waymarked senda de los monjes which I lost two times towards the end (horrible waymarking, in reverse too), but I made it to ponferrada safely and tiredly after another 10h. I found the map and description in one of the books in albergue in penalba and sketched it on a peace of paper.
the first part to montes de valdueza (fountain) is also along PR sendero tebaida berciana, with a small detour to cueva de san genadio and a fabulous 300m climb and drop across a ridge with a labyrinth on top.
in montes de valdueza it is possible to sleep in the attic of the village hall - ask mirasol who tends to iglesia.
here you then part left for las medulas. if you would prefer to go to ponferrada, I can give you some tips on that route, too.
if you will take this route, it is absolutely stunning, but you are not so in the middle of nowhere as it sounds. :wink:
buen camino!
it was one of the most spectacular and memorable days on my camino. but the phone numbers and all that I got from my notes.
