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Accomodation...or lack of

Complete once out of 15 days, and avoiding upmarket accommodations . . . I don't really see the dilemma. Let her walk her Camino. And, have a great and wonderful place to welcome her when she arrives in Santiago. Pampering has its own rewards after a long pilgrimage.
 
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You,really like to suffer as I did twice having no place to stay. Cold, rain and dark and all albergue were full, even expense hotels as well as we had to trek another 7 km to find a bed. It's not a adventure when you didn't carry a sleeping bag and out in the middle of pilgrims village. It's better to know that you secure a place to sleep on this Camino. May 2016, a holy year with many different countries represented. This happen to others as well, a pilgrim walked to Saguhn because there were no beds 10 km back. He was tired and hasnt eaten. The municipal Albergue had beds, but they were closed. I just let him in after hours and gave him my extra food I made. THE next day he put 5 euros in a envelope and thanking me for letting him in. The pilgrim look lost, frighten and worry. I fel same when it happen twice to me this year. Im still on the Camino as we speak, and i would recommend that you book ahead.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
No, I actually don't like to suffer, but it is not without value. I have slept on the floor on pilgrimage; it wasn't what I desired, and I didn't enjoy it. But it wasn't the end of the world. I have been exhausted and completely drained and eaten the sum total of my dinner from a vending machine. But it wasn't the end of the world.

If a person seeks the assurance of the bed, and that is what they need to feel comfortable on their pilgrimage, then I won't condemn nor ridicule them. On the other hand, I believe there are worse things than suffering, and IMO one of those is reducing the opportunity that one gets while on pilgrimage to grow and flourish under adversity. We trim the branch to increase the fruit, but too much trimming kills the tree. We put manure on the field to increase the crop, but too much nitrogen can kill the shoot. Humans are not dissimilar; the Camino calls us to a middle ground between guarantees and risk, between comfort and distress. We're not talking third-world starvation and illness, or dirt floors in one-room shacks. Under the worst circumstances, the Camino is still a luxury cruise compared to what many live with daily.

And, let's be honest, if one doesn't carry a sleeping bag, then prudence is lacking. If one hasn't eaten, then why didn't he grab some food along the way or carry enough with him. Yes, he may have saved on weight or saved some time, but the suffering is of his own making.
 
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No problem for me either, except in Ventosa where the one Albergue was full (arrived about 4:30 along with several other pilgrims). I shared a cab with 3 others, to Nájara - 15euro for the lot of us. This worked for me as I was OK with not walking every step since I did not have time to do the whole route. I did walk with this exception from Pamplona to Monasterio San Juan de Ortega, then Ponferrada to Santiago and with my pack too. This was my only problem with accomodations. I started in Pamplona April 18 and finished on May 11. Maybe I was just lucky, as I did not have a problem with hordes of other pilgrims all around me either, as I mentioned in another post. Many passed me, but then left me mostly to myself. I did find that walking after about 2pm insured a pretty uncrowded camino. By the way, my first pilgrim blessing was given me by Franciso Pérez González, the Archbishop of Pamplona, so maybe it wasn't luck after all.
 

@koilife:
I find it hard to understand why you would criticize a distressed pilgrim for complaining about lacking a bed on a rainy night and also for booking beds ahead. We are all weak human beings who do our best to take care of ourselves, whether by booking beds or carrying sleeping gear or purchasing and carrying food to eat. It is prudent to do all these things when the situation arises and it is compassionate to take care of others when they are unable to do so, or perhaps took the advice of many of us on this forum to travel light. Many of us also try to take care of others in these situations. It is a part of being pilgrims, surely, as much as is sleeping on a floor occasionally, when a bed does not present itself. Many of us overextend ourselves physically for the privilege of being on pilgrimage. Many of us also do what we can to change to life situations of those in continuously desperate living situations. Compassion is always good, even to ourselves and our companions on our more fortunate way.
 
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If I gave offence, I apologize. I didn't intend to be harsh, but to respond to a misperception of something I'd previously said.

I suggested to @wotbus@ that motive was important to making a decision, and that clinging to the security of a guaranteed bed might lessen their opportunity for freedom and adventure. @xymmot responded that I must therefore like to suffer, which isn't true, and I further responded that I think there are worse things than suffering inconveniences on the Camino, and that those might actually be for our own good.

And, for the record, my criticism wasn't for @wotbus@ or anyone else complaining about a lack of bed or for booking ahead. My criticism was for a basic lack of preparedness.

On my Camino, I went out of my way to help pilgrims in far worse situations (hypothermia and dehydration) than being hungry and bedless. That their actions brought the consequence on themselves was without question, and I rendered aid without hesitation. Not carrying a sleeping bag or enough food is no different in its nature than ignoring the advice of the SJPdP pilgrims office and walking the Route Napoleon in bad weather, it's just less dire. But that they suffered a cold and hungry night shouldn't exempt their decisions not to carry bedding and food from due criticism.
 
@koilife:
I was more puzzled than offended, since the picture that I have of you is of someone who would do whatever is needed to help a pilgrim in distress. But I still cannot see why you would advise against booking ahead while criticizing pilgrims for lack of preparedness. I can see how the flow of a conversation might bring you to express both opinions, in different contexts. But the forum is just such a conversation, where future pilgrims are advised to leave behind unnecessary weight at the same time as they are flooded with masses of information about what they should take. I am an experienced mountain hiker and I still find it challenging, after my first camino, to know to what degree I should be responsible for my shelter in case of emergency by carrying a shelter, which almost everyone on this forum would consider superfluous. I am not going to book my beds, after the first night or two (I am starting in France, where I understand booking is nearly obligatory). As a friend, and an experienced camino walker, would you suggest that I carry an emergency shelter or book my beds, or would you tell me that both are mistaken but I really should be prepared for whatever might happen?
 
Be sure to read what other pilgrims and I have posted earlier in Praise of the Lower Route via Valcarlos.
...It is beautiful and the original way through the mountain pass.

Buen camino!
Thank you MSPATH.I read your post and I still think that taking the Valcarlos route is a good idea and one that will give great memories. Great advice. Ed
 
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My dilemma is whether to pass on the information I have just read or leave her to continue as she is; left to her own devices
Hi wotbus!
She appears to be doing particularly well on this great adventure.
It appears also that she requires no assisstance.
Now you on the other hand.

Regards
Gerard
 
I am starting from SJPdP next week and already trying to book a few days ahead. I will have a tent as well and will report back on camping availability, particularly within the grounds of Albergues.

It would be great help to me, if you did report back, i wasn't gonna take a tent but reading all the different stories about over crowding and no room in the albergues is making me change my mind, i would rather have a choice if i was refused a bed. i don't start until 4th july.
 
@Albertagirl, all fair questions, and they gave me a chance to think more precisely about the specific issue I was trying to address, but I appear to have done so clumsily in my earlier posts.

As to the question of placing reservations on the Camino, I was not advising against them; I believe the person needs to make their own decision on the matter. If they want/need the certainty of a place to stay (regardless of reason --- health issues, fear, lack of proper sleeping kit, etc.), then by all means they should do so. On the other hand, if they can live with a little uncertainty, I personally believe there is greater opportunity for all kinds of benefits (which I listed in the earlier posts), and I encourage them to that if they can. For those caught in the post-Easter surge this year, reserving ahead appears to have been a necessity; for those in the relative calm behind them, it doesn't appear to be necessary.

As to your question of whether you should book ahead in France, I believe you should because it is a matter of justice to your host so they can prepare adequate food (there are places on lesser traveled routes in Spain where the same advice also applies). To do otherwise would be an imposition on the charity of your host. However, once in Spain on a route like the Frances, there is little to no need to reserve ahead, except in extraordinary personal circumstances or in the case of really high volumes. REGARDLESS, I advise a person to be prepared in the event that they end up homeless for a night or two, or, far worse, stranded outside of cellular service. An emergency shelter is appropriate; in my case, my Tyvek fabric "sleeping sheet" has loops so I can pitch it like a tarp for shelter using my walking sticks and some titanium stakes and guy lines. Going over the Route Napoleon, I came very near to pitching it when we were trapped in an extended fog and I was worried about losing the trail. Thankfully, things cleared, but I was prepared if they didn't. Anyone spending much time in the back country needs the basic skills in case something unexpected happens (injury, illness, weather, getting lost, whatever).

I have compassion for almost anyone in a difficult situation, but I don't always have sympathy. By compassion, I mean that I am willing to "suffer with" (com = with, passio = suffer) them to bring them aid. If they need a place to stay, or a lower bunk, or food or water from my pack, or whatever, I will help, regardless of why they need it. Don't get me wrong, I'm no model of a saint, but I do strive to live from a posture of compassion. Sympathy, on the other hand involves feelings of pity or sorrow over their situation, and my sympathy tends to be much more conditional (whether that is right or wrong is a moral question and worthy of a different thread).

The shorthand example of this is when my teenage son ignored my repeated advice about how to ascend and descend the first few days from SJPdP to Zubiri, and then several days later he experienced a nasty case of tendinitis in one of his knees as a direct result. I cared for him, and carried almost all of his gear as well as my own. I helped him get medication, knee wraps, etc. I bused him ahead rather than risk further injury while he healed up enough to walk. I had plenty of compassion for him, in that I shared readily in his suffering. However, I had no sympathy for him. His tendinitis wasn't because he was ignorant or because we went too far or too hard; rather, it was because of dumb teenage hubris, ignoring "the old man's" advice on proper technique while telling everyone that he'd be walking me into the ground. If he'd simply jumped off the roof and broken his leg, I'd have been just as compassionate, and just as unsympathetic.

What you were picking up on was a lack of sympathy on my part for one who doesn't even carry a sleeping bag and then has to endure hardship as a natural consequence. If their safety net is to book ahead, that's fine. If it's to buy a bag, that's probably even better. But to do neither and then experience the hardship a second time . . . well, I'm not sure what to say. If I'm there and able to help in some way, I'll gladly show compassion, but I will likely lack sympathy.

If one walks without adequate sleeping kit because their plan is to stay in upmarket places, what happens if things don't work out? What if they walk without adequate food or water or weather gear? The middle ground between fear and carelessness is prudence. The Camino isn't Death Valley or the Maze in the Canyonlands or the Australian Outback, and that so many ill-prepared people do it successfully is a tribute to just how hiker-friendly it is, but stuff can still happen, and the prudent person ought to prepare accordingly.

Anyways, if you hung in for this one, bully for you! Thanks for your patience on what turned into a much longer post than I'd planned.
 
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@koilife:
Thank you. I was afraid you had decided that I was being argumentative and you did not wish to continue the conversation. Reasons for not being well-provisioned may be multiple and it might be kind to avoid making judgments. Last fall, I spent most of a Saturday afternoon in Logrono looking in vain for a store which was open where I could buy some food. All the food stores closed at noon on Saturday until Monday morning. I managed all right, but would have understood why another pilgrim might be out of food. I know that many pilgrims choose to carry only a sleeping bag liner, to avoid the weight. Given the encouragement to do so on this forum, it is no wonder if an inexperienced walker might decide to do so. To many, the camino is their first experience of long-distance walking and they rely on us for advice. The camino frances is presented as an easy village to village walk where food and accommodation can be found every few kilometres. Usually, this is so.
I don't quite know what I shall do about reservations in France. One reason why I have limited my walk in France to just the approach to the pass, which I am looking forward to very much, is the challenge of food for a vegetarian, where group meals are generally prepared by the host. Bars are easier, as there is generally some choice. My booking in Oloron Ste Marie is in a place which provides fully furnished bachelor apartments. Perhaps I can get some food together there for a few meals. I shall have to think about the next few days in France and try to stay in places on the Aragones in Spain where there is a bar associated with the albergue. I have been thinking about being prepared for an emergency bivouac for some time, as I am unsure of the route over the Somport Pass, which is complicated by a long tunnel for motor vehicles and some uncertainty as to markings of the walking path. I do not carry a cell phone (I have an emergency beacon). There are many plans for setting up an emergency shelter on youtube, some of which involve my Sea to Summit tarp poncho. But I do not know how I can do so in a high mountain pass, presumably treeless, with only a wooden walking staff and some paracord. I do not check my pack, so I cannot carry metal pegs. Any suggestions would be welcome. I think that perhaps you and I are somewhat similar in our approach to being prepared for possible emergencies. I note that you are from Colorado and may perhaps have spent time in the Colorado Rockies. That gives us a very different mindset from that of the average pilgrim. But as a senior I have to allow for shorter days and a lighter pack than I was used to in the past. I remind myself that bad things happen to the unprepared, and that is not going to be me if I can help it. In a couple of weeks, I shall be heading out for a ten day walk in Banff National Park. I shall use that to remind myself of my backcountry skills and maybe practice making an emergency shelter.
P.S.: snowfall warning for Calgary for tomorrow. You never know what the weather will throw at you.
 
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@koilife:
Thank you. I was afraid you had decided that I was being argumentative and you did not wish to continue the conversation.
Not at all. One of your best qualities is the greatness of your heart.

I agree the forum can sometimes do a disservice to new or even experienced pilgrims, but usually there are a range of voices with varying viewpoints. In the end, each pilgrim must make their own best choice of which voices to listen to.
[QUOTE="Albertagirl, post: 413298, member: 43403"]I don't quite know what I shall do about reservations in France. One reason why I have limited my walk in France to just the approach to the pass, which I am looking forward to very much, is the challenge of food for a vegetarian, where group meals are generally prepared by the host. Bars are easier, as there is generally some choice. My booking in Oloron Ste Marie is in a place which provides fully furnished bachelor apartments. Perhaps I can get some food together there for a few meals. I shall have to think about the next few days in France and try to stay in places on the Aragones in Spain where there is a bar associated with the albergue.[/QUOTE]
Not having walked these personally, and not being faced with the challenges of being a vegetarian, I'm not sure I can comment other than to say that your process of weighing things out and thinking things through is the prudence I'm speaking of. I'm not sure of the reasons for your vegetarianism, but if it is by principle rather than necessity, possibly a relaxation of it is a reasonable concession to circumstance.
[QUOTE="Albertagirl, post: 413298, member: 43403"]I have been thinking about being prepared for an emergency bivouac for some time, as I am unsure of the route over the Somport Pass, which is complicated by a long tunnel for motor vehicles and some uncertainty as to markings of the walking path. I do not carry a cell phone (I have an emergency beacon). There are many plans for setting up an emergency shelter on youtube, some of which involve my Sea to Summit tarp poncho. But I do not know how I can do so in a high mountain pass, presumably treeless, with only a wooden walking staff and some paracord. I do not check my pack, so I cannot carry metal pegs. Any suggestions would be welcome. I think that perhaps you and I are somewhat similar in our approach to being prepared for possible emergencies. I note that you are from Colorado and may perhaps have spent time in the Colorado Rockies. That gives us a very different mindset from that of the average pilgrim. But as a senior I have to allow for shorter days and a lighter pack than I was used to in the past. I remind myself that bad things happen to the unprepared, and that is not going to be me if I can help it. In a couple of weeks, I shall be heading out for a ten day walk in Banff National Park. I shall use that to remind myself of my backcountry skills and maybe practice making an emergency shelter.[/QUOTE]
I've not used the Sea to Summit tarp poncho, bit it appears to be designed specifically for pitching as a tarp. The challenge I suspect is that it's best suited to walking poles, and not a single staff, which is likely too tall. Possibly there is an option to pitch a single end high with your taut line running diagonal to the other end anchored to the ground (although that might stress against your head hole), then slant off the diagonal with the other corners, also to ground. That being said, I tend to need to work these things out in a hands-on way when I don't have past experience with specific equipment. As to stakes and guy lines, I don't think you can effectively do this without four or five of them (I use titanium and spectra cord; all totaled just a couple ounces). Your best best may be a small box that you can ship in the cargo hold that carries stakes and guy lines; or get them when you arrive if there's a handy sporting goods store.
 
I'm planning on walking mid August but reading these post make me think i might postpone until sept.

I have asked Albergue owners all along the way what they've see. Mostly I heard that this May is typical and comparable to last May. I have *also* heard repeatedly that May and Sept. are the busiest and there are many fewer pilgrims in July and August, because of the heat.
I am in Burgos now (May 22) and the Municipal was full. This is the first full place I've experienced and I started in SJPP. However three of us were walking together and we found a nice three bed pension room for $45 Euros.
 
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I am in Burgos now (May 22) and the Municipal was full. This is the first full place I've experienced and I started in SJPP. However three of us were walking together and we found a nice three bed pension room for $45 Euros.
A lot pilgrims start or pick up for their next streach in Burgos .....are there many Spanish 'weekenders'?
 
It is 8:10pm and there are still spare beds in the municipal albergue at Navarette. I am wondering if the "no beds" is a marketing campaign by the private albergues and accommodation providers! It seems many are being scared into reserving (and thereby committing) to the commercial operators. I might live to eat my words but so far so good!
 
We are newbies!

I am travelling with my daughter (13 years old) and my best mate this Friday (27th May). Up until now, I have not worried about booking. We tried numerous times to book at the Orrison, bu then decided that if it was fully booked we will just get a taxi back to SJDP and then stay there overnight, and get a taxi back to the Orrison in the morning and continue our walk.

If there are no beds then we will either:-
a) Sleep under the stars and pray that the weather is warm.
b) I am happy to upgrade and pay for a hotel / b&b etc if need be

This is our first Camino, and we have been training for months. We are really looking forward to it and what will be will be. As long as we are warm, dry, have enough food and we are all together then I know we will be safe and fine.

I am just hoping that these types of threads are going to scare lots of other people away (at least for the next two weeks!).

Beun Camino!
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
It seems to me that proposing a conspiracy theory to explain a phenomena you have been lucky enough to avoid is demeaning to both the albergue operators and those of us who have been affected by it.
 
Are you booking ahead ?
 
My partner and I will be starting in SJPDP on September 5. I have already booked Orisson for the first night as we are both in our late 60's and I thought that would be a good first day's walk for us. However I was not planning on booking ahead but having read all of the above posts think it may be worth thinking about. Since I have never dome the CF before, how easy is it to book ahead? Can it be done online with one of the many Camino apps? I'm currently looking at Camino Frances from the Wise Pilgrim Guides. Has anyone used this app to book an albergue?
 
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@Marc Hamel:
I don't know about booking from the Wise Pilgrim Guide, but you can certainly book through www.gronze.com/camino-frances by going to the Etapa (stage) that you want to book on. You will find lists of accommodation on that stage, with albergues in brown and links given. Not all albergues will take bookings, so if you want to book ahead you will have to do so in the private, commercial accommodation and you can miss some wonderful places. If concerned about this, I would book a few places until you know how busy things actually are when you are there, then reconsider whether it is necessary. Another thing to consider is not to book for a distance that might be uncomfortable for the two of you to walk in a day. Especially at the start of your camino, that could cause blisters etc. and make you really miserable. I walked my first camino last fall, at the age of 67. Good luck and buen camino to you both.
 
I've done about 80% of my booking through wise pilgrim app and booking.com.
 
I
I've had no problems either - arrived Los Arcos today around 3ish and had no problem getting a bed (same all the way from SJPDP) - staying in mostly municioal albergues)
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
 
Hi Marc,
It's a snap--you can do this one or two nights ahead very easily.
If you're concerned, perhaps book the first few nights and see how crowded it is at the time, and where you are. If it's not chock-a-block and you've booked ahead, you'll be missing out on the spontaneity of just walking--which is quite wonderful. And as Albertagirl says, it means you'll be locked into a schedule that may or may not be comfortable. I have no idea about September, as I've only walked in March/April but from what Kanga and a few others are saying it's clear that right now there are both crowded waves and places where it's fine. The day of the week can make a difference: I see you'll be starting on a Monday, which is good--it's said that early in the week is less crowded than weekends.
And do consider staying with the Sisters of the Sacred Heart in Zabaldika, about 8kms short of Pamplona (I don't think this can be booked). A very special albergue.
A very Buen Camino to you both!!
 
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Sincere thanks for your kind words. I too have benefited loads from your sobering verses. I suspect I am not the only one!
 
Well, I either smell bad or am extraordinarily lucky because, once again, I arrived quite late at Albergue Santa Fe at Cardeñula Riopico to the stress of sharing a dorm with just two other pilgrims. And we were the only ones staying in an 18 place albergue.

It is just after Atapuerca and makes a nice stroll into Burgos the next day, so I don't know why it was so empty. Maybe everyone stays at Atapuerca or Ages.

We had an excellent dinner, too.
 
Sincere thanks for your kind words. I too have benefited loads from your sobering verses. I suspect I am not the only one!

Correct Kristel, your not the only one, and thanks John for the brilliant insight into starting MY Camino, I for one, am very apprehensive about over crowding and beds in the various posts that i'm reading on the different forums. But i'm gonna disregarding what i've seen written, and take your very good advice, Here Goes, ... Roll on the 30th of June. ...Cheers.
 
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Me thinks the reason you have such a relaxed camino is that you walk outside the pilgrims bubbles (starting at weekends at certain spots) and don't stay at the typical stopping points. Well done you and Buen Camino, SY

PS Today arrived 1300+ pilgrims in Santiago, I sincerely hope your Camino will be as relaxed in Galicia as it is now. But somehow I think it will ...
 
The first edition came out in 2003 and has become the go-to-guide for many pilgrims over the years. It is shipping with a Pilgrim Passport (Credential) from the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
Am one of those walkers who is leaving early (to avoid the heat) and stopping in the interim places in the Brierley guide to get a bed. I am getting a bed, but by 3-4pm beds are filling up. A fellow pilgrim is ahead of me and we have been in touch every day. Yesterday (26 May) she got to Los Arcos and only got a bed at the 3rd albergue and it was 3pm. Thought I would book ahead for Los Arcos for 28 May and the only bed available was a double room in a hostel for €320 - I kid you not.

I have changed my plans to bus to Logrono from Estella as I don't want to risk getting to Montjardin and not getting a bed - there is nothing between there and Los Arcos.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Kanga
I smelled bad at the end of each day. I think on the Camino you share your blessings very well. Even if you don't smell like the rose we believe you to be.
 
I've visited the pilgrims' office twice in the last two days, second time at 08:00, and decided not to wait in the never ending queue. I am not so worried about receiving a Compostela as I already have a nice collection, but I would have liked to be included in the official numbers. I guess I am not alone in not registering, so the numbers will be an under-reflection of just how many pilgrims have arrived in Santiago
 
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1700+ pilgrims arrived in yesterday (Friday). Im glad I will be arriving next Thursday as weekdays seem to have under 1000 per day.
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Thanks Viranani - I will look forward to staying with the Sisters in Zabaldika - I think Ed and I would like to stay with as many religious houses as possible, being former Catholic religious ourselves. Unfortunately I have not found a currently occupied Trappist (Cistercian) monastery close to our route.
 

Do try to visit Sobrado dos Monxes monastery which is splendid!. In March 2007 I detoured to Sobrado from the Camino Frances at Arzua; the round trip walk was roughly 50 km. Stayed at the pilgrim albergue within the Cistercian/Trappist complex; there also is a separate hospederia for visitors. When the porter saw my American passport he delightedly (and silently) pointed to several library shelves filled with the works of Thomas Merton, the renowned American Trappist.

This monastery complex is a Baroque masterpiece; alone in the afternoon I wandered through the many structures in awe. No other pilgrims were about; only one other 'outsider' and I attended Vespers. The evening service was held in a splendid circular contemporary space. Walls were either painted white or natural wood. All was lit by thick, sputtering candles. The monks wearing their white robes responded in unison. It was a true privilege to share such a timeless ambiance.

Margaret Meredith

For further info also scan this earlier Forum thread re Monasteries for Pilgrims
 
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Thank you, Margaret! Manifique. It's a bit of a detour, but it looks like one could walk from Melide on small roads and re-connect with the Frances at Arzua.
 
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Writing from Ventosa where I'm awake without respite. I suppose it's the effect of the first day's walking.

On the bright side, when we arrived around 3pm, we were 11 and 12 on the day's roster at the albergue. With only 45 beds or so total, by evening they aren't much over 30. In talking to a number of other pilgrims, there haven't been any issues for them from SJPdP excerpt those that stopped late in larger cities around the weekend, such as Logroño.

Overall, things don't feel much different than they did in 2013, except that there has been an explosion of groups walking with just day packs. Some are clearly part of an organized tour. But others are clearly doing so from need. I had dinner with a 75 year old man from Chile. Remarkable in every respect, but without transport services for his bag, he'd really struggle.

One thing made laugh out loud in Navarrete was a pitying comment made by one of the tour groups when Joel and I put our packs on after lunch. One said, "I can't imagine having to carry such large packs." Another replied, "They probably can't afford to do it any other way." For reference, my pack is 16lb and my son's is 14lb.
 
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...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Arriving into St Jean tomorrow and setting off for Roncesvalles on Thursday.

1300+ pilgrims a day sounds just impossible, surely we're all going to Roncesvalles, 10 to a bunk?

EDIT: Just realised we're talking about arrivals into Santiago and not setting off from St Jean!

Luckily not starting on a w/e and will stay inter-Brierley - hopefully that will keep me in a bed!
 
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I did not have much trouble finding beds on Camino Frances leaving SJPP April 23 and arriving Santiago May 22, but there was a little bit of anxiety at O'Cebriero and from Sarria to Santiago. Stayed at the municipals about 2/3rds of the time, usually arriving well after Albergue opening time. I did make reservations for a pension in Melide, Albergue Boni, and for beds in Santiago. Also stayed in hotels in Pamplona and Leon, but those were for sleep needs, not capacity issues.

In general, if there was overcrowding, the Camino seemed to provide for those otherwise homeless for the night.

Buen Camino!
 
I didn't like staying at O Cebriero,anybody any good alternatives on the way up there ??
 
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I didn't like staying at O Briero,anybody any good alternatives on the way up there ??

If you don't like staying in O Cebreiro try stopping in Ruitelan on the way. The small refuge Pequeno Potala is aways a special spot and their communal dinner most delicious. See more here on their Gronze.com page.

If you do stop please give my best to Luis and Carlos, the gracious hosts!
 
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I walked with his son for a bit today before I bumped into you! Would have liked to have met him. A lot of people tuned up in Najera today looking for beds.
 
I didn't like staying at O Briero,anybody any good alternatives on the way up there ??
I stayed at Pequeno Potala last fall, then at Hospital, the next village after O'Cebreiro with an albergue, the next night. As at O'Cebreiro, it is a Xunta albergue. The building was adequate, but of course there were no dishes or pots in the kitchen. There is only one bar/restaurant in town, and the food is terrible, if they will deign to cook for you at all. I would recommend, if you want to go on to Hospital from O'Cebreiro, eat your main meal of the day at noon at O'Cebreiro, where I believe there is a choice of decent restaurants, then just carry what you need for a light meal later at Hospital.
 
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I walked with his son for a bit today before I bumped into you! Would have liked to have met him. A lot of people tuned up in Najera today looking for beds.
It was an absolute delight to meet you. I of course recognized you right off because of the big B-shaped backpack and your badger mask.

Joel commented as we walked further into Najara, "You sure know a lot of people from the forum." I replied "Yes. I do." It's rare these days when he thinks i know anything at all, so I wasn't going to waste the opportunity to seem knowledgeable even though I didn't have the first clue until you recognized me first by something in our discussion.

How is your foot doing? Did you stop in Najera and bus/train into Burgos?
 
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My Camino live angel responds again x
 
I didn't like staying at O Briero,anybody any good alternatives on the way up there ??

Edited!!!

We stayed in Foncebadon which is NOT 2.5 km before o Cebreiro. ----

Sorry I was thinking about Cruz de Ferro. Blame it on Camino brain and tomorrow's impending arrival in Santiago.

Right before O Cebreiro we stayed in Laguna de Castilla at Albergue la Escuela. Also only a few km until the peak.

So sorry for the mix up. And thanks to Mspath for pointing out my error!

I will leave the rest of my previous post in case anyone ever stays in Foncebadon and wants a delicious meal.



and it was lovely. (We had a double room at El Trasgu). If you stay there, consider eating at La Taberna de Gaia. It's a cool place with a medieval theme - no pilgrim menu - and I had the best ribs I've eaten in a long time. One of the best meals I've had on the Camino.

Good luck!
 
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El Trasgu is indeed at Foncebadon but Foncebadon is roughly 77 km from O Cebreiro!
 
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Ive been booking ahead . I have to as I'm limping along with a bum knee. However even calling ahead i often get " Sorry , no possible"
In Viana Monday the single group was large and filled the place (albergue Izar ). Very nice owner btw .
Im a one village to the next walker ,If I get rejected anywhere Im sleeping on the street .
Yes, its busy , even going into Logroño but I am hoping to it thins out .
 
I'm booked into Albergue Touristico de legroso next week,is the albergue on the main path to Negriera ?? .I have walked to Negriera a few times and don't recall passing Legroso.
 
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I'm booked into Albergue Touristico de legroso next week,is the albergue on the main path to Negriera ?? .I have walked to Negriera a few times and don't recall passing Legroso.

You enter the village/hamlet of Legroso before Negriera. See your spot 700m off the camino on this map via Gronze.com.
 
Hi Tracy I am the same age and travelling alone, first time Camino. I arrive on the 17th June in Astorga and have only booked two nights. I plan to stay at cheap hotels, not albergues. Wondering if you decided to book the rest of your accomodation or risk it?
 
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I am in Burgos. The only busy place where pilgrims had to walk on was Los Arcos.
 
Hi Jenn
Weekends and public holidays can be busy and the accommodation of your choosing difficult to get so there is some advantage in booking for those times especially if you are staying on the Brierley stages or in major towns.
 
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It's my first Camino and I'm leaving SJDP on 4th July, aiming to be arriving in Santiago 5th Aug. I know it's a busy time but would LOVE to not book the whole route. I am hoping to book some of the busy points for peace of mind, and then just go with the flow for the rest of the time. Are there any particular sections of the French route that are busier than others and would be best to book?
 
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I remember arriving in a small village on the Frances about 5 pm (in May 2013), to be told all beds were full at the Municipal albergue. I went to the restaurant/bar and was told they too were completo. I didn't want to walk onward. I lingered near the hermitage hoping some local person would take pity on me and offer a bed. Nothing. I started to walk slowly through town, watching for hopeful signs of a solution. There, on the road, painted on the tarmac, were two arrows: the arrow to the left marked 'albergue', the arrow to the right marked 'albergue'. Hmmm, there is a second albergue! I went there. A private donativo albergue. A pilgrim answered the gate and said they were full. I asked to speak to the hospitalero. The host asks if I have a booking. No, I don't. He calls out to his wife. They have a chat. They give me the last bed in the place since the person who made the booking had not yet arrived and it was nearly 6 pm.

The person who made the booking never showed up. Apparently that is common. The hosts were past pilgrims themselves and were the nicest people. They didn't do dinner, so I went back to the bar. There I learned that the Municipal albergue was now pulling out mattresses for overflow.

I learned from this that albergues will push people forward once they are full, but at a certain point they can't do that anymore and they start looking at overflow. A similar thing had happened in Najere once everything was full, the school gym was opened up. That doesn't mean it will always happen, but they may know who locally can help.

I now walk knowing I might have an occasional night outside, with a very lightweight bouviac bag in my bag (one of thise survivor things), but also trusting that the camino will provide. It has to date.
 
I would suggest the cities like Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, Leon, and Santiago, especially if arriving around a weekend, but a day or two in advance should suffice. These are natural concentration points and the albergues fill up pretty quick (although if you stay the night before, just on the outskirts, and arrive early even these aren't bad). If you want a rest day, however, you probably don't want to be carrying your pack around all day or having to wait around to check into a different albergue. Thus, reservations help solve that problem, possibly with a pension, hostel, or hotel. Be sure to look for ones with self-serve laundry; you probably don't want to be looking for that on your day off.

As a generalization, the only other time you need to book is to guarantee you have a specific private albergue or other specific accommodation.
 
I had an almost identical event as @NorthernLight on Friday evening in Agés when we got caught and passed by the leading edge of a wave that was behind us last week. The albergues opened up less than modern overflow buildings, and charged us less than the standard rate, but we had a room. Talking with the hospitalero at dinner, he said he had a dozen no-shows on the resrvations. He asked me if I wanted to come over for no extra cost, but I declined because I was already settled (my back, the next morning, reproached me for not moving, but such is the Camino).

I really think there should be 50% prepayment and a 100% loss of prepayment if not cancelled by 5pm the prior day (or similar arrangement) to try and reduce the flagrant abuse.
 
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Hi Mary,
I found it was busier after Sarria but this said, I always found a bed (in previous years).
I usually book somewhere in Santiago before I arrive, for peace of mind
at the end of the journey.
Buen camino
 
Ha ha! Pilgrim snobbery cuts both ways, obviously.
Well, I'm very happy to be part of the hoi polloi, with the rest of you.
Heard 4 polished women having a drink on a terrace tuen down the tapas because they didn't want to put on weight. Put on weight on the Camino?! Then I realised they were having theor bags carried. Oh, it was soooo tempting to suggest they eat like normal people and just carry their bags: then they would lose weight! The things you hear...
 
Jenn, I booked a few starting nights, but then left the rest to chance. I figure a little of both will give me peace of mind and a few good night sleeps AND the spontaneous experience I associate with this adventure. Buen Camino! I leave tomorrow!!! Yikes.
 
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There is the long, long, long hill up from Villafranca before the descent into San Juan de Ortega. About 30 pilgrims with impossibly small packs entered from a road on the left and strolled down into town and collected sellos. It suddenly dawned on me why I was seeing so many of them in the towns and so few of them on the trail. Evidently, it's not just the packs that are being transported. And it's not for lack of physical fitness; the majority appeared to be more fit than I.

That is a far cry from the kinds of assisted pilgrimages that @sillydoll describes above with her devout seminarians.
 
I have down the same. Buen Camino Tracey!
 
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I have only caught the end of this thread but I am concerned about the apparent judging. Surely it is an individual experience however they wish to walk the Camino...?

I leave next week and would love to carry my own pack but due to medical reasons it is not recommended. Yet you won't know what's going on for me at a glance. You may however judge me for walking along happily with my impossibly small (day) pack. Though you won't hear me denying tapas along the way.
 

Jenn:
The small packs on a group of people arriving together are a hint that this group of pilgrims may be busing the camino. Their claim of sellos may be suspicious, because a credencial with sellos is evidence to many albergues that the carrier of the credencial is a walking pilgrim who qualifies to stay in the accommodation set aside for walking pilgrims. It is also evidence for the pilgrim office in Santiago that the person who claims a compostela, an important symbol and souvenir of the pilgrimage, has fulfilled the requirements to receive one. In the main, your sending your pack ahead will not disqualify you for anything, although there is at least one albergue (Guacelmo in Rabanal) where pilgrims with support (pack transport) are not admitted. So, yes we judge the behaviour of persons who appear to be claiming something that they do not qualify for. But who knows? Perhaps they are just collecting the sellos as souvenirs and will not be using them to claim anything. I assure you that this size of the daypack is not the element being judged. You are very welcome on the camino, whether or not you carry your pack or send it ahead. Do what you need to to be able to remain healthy throughout your walk. Have a wonderful time. Buen camino.
 
Jenn, If you're out walking the Camino, it will be obvious that you're out walking the Camino. You'll be trading "war stories," commiserating over sore feet, laughing over shared good times, running into familiar faces on your cafe contacts leche breaks, sharing your day's adventures over dinner (or vino tinto), and otherwise fitting into the general pilgrim scene. These will mark you as a pilgrimage. Put your backpack worries aside and Buen Camino!!
 
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@Albertagirl gave a good reminder of something that might otherwise be missed by a newcomer. Many (most?) of us are perfectly happy to welcome people who walk, bus, drive, or just look at the Camino. Any level of interest and participation is great. Usually, the objections (judging) come when we see obvious deception - people saying or implying that they've walked when they haven't, in order to get a particular souvenir or stay in the albergues meant for walking pilgrims. You will have a great time, as @Bala says, and there's no need to worry about your small pack.
 
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For the record, yes, I made a judgement, as in the actual meaning of the word --- the use of reason to form a sensible conclusion --- and my judgement is that there is a material difference between the type of tour pilgrim that I saw and an earlier tour group that @sillydoll led of devout Catholic seminarians who used assistance but walked the entire way with a great deal of devotion. I would hope that such judgements not be subject to the tyranny of tolerance.

Also, for the record, what I did NOT do was make a moral judgement of the tour pilgrims I saw or their choices as to whether those are right or wrong. Nor did I suggest that they not be given either tapas or sellos.

If you need assistance, then by all means use it. I won't judge. I promise. I've bussed ahead myself when my son was struggling with tendinitis, and likely I'll end up needing to do so this time as well. And if I legitimately need baggage transport, I will use it without hesitation. And, there will remain a difference between me and the person who uses it as a convenience or to avoid any material kind of struggle or suffering. And to that difference I can apply the judgement that we have different kinds of pilgrimages, just as there will be between you who use baggage service for medical need and another who uses it for convenience. It doesn't make the person a bad person because they did for convenience what you or I do for necessity, but it does make them a different kind of pilgrim. Whether such differences matter in the grand scheme of things is a matter of a different thread.
 
There is talk of no beds in Leon this Saturday when I arrive. I am part of the St Jean 900.

The cheapest hotel.is €300. There is a big celebration in the city. The Spanish seem to celebrate something every week!
 
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There are other ways to carry onés pack that on the back. Ypu
often see people with push or pull carts of some sort so they can walk with their stuff.
 
There is talk of no beds in Leon this Saturday when I arrive. I am part of the St Jean 900.

The cheapest hotel.is €300. There is a big celebration in the city. The Spanish seem to celebrate something every week!
Weekends in the big cities are often like that. If you have the luxury of timing your arrival or stopping just prior, then walking into the city in the early morning and checking your bag in a locker, you can mostly mitigate the impact.

Edit: I just booked for Sunday and Monday night in Leon in a hostel for two people at total of 30 euro per night. That is the difference a day's delay can make.
 
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Having walked from Leon starting on June 4, we would have had no problems finding a bed anywhere along the way until last night in Sarria. Tonight in Portomarin our large Albergue is full as it appears are most other places. Here they were turning people away from around 4. I think most would have found a bed as we saw the later in the main square. A young German girl we have met who is walking with a couple of injuries but didn't want to book ahead had the Albergue phone for her for tomorrow and many places they called are fully booked. The crowds today made for a very different walking experience. We have 2 large groups of Spanish teenagers here and the whole way from Sarria was very busy. Queues were long at each refreshment stop too. Hopefully we might spread out a bit more tomorrow!
 
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Goodness. That's concerning. I fly out on Wednesday and walk from Astorga. I've been trying to NOT book too much ahead other than the first two nights and Santiago so that my pace wasn't too set but it seems like I better book it all in.... Even the enquiries I made for cheap hotels and private room albergues, many were booked out already. At least with booking.com I can cancel 2 days before if I find that my progress is faster/slower. Walking with large groups of teenagers sounds horrendous. Hope you can get ahead of them. Buen Camino.
 
Walking with large groups of teenagers sounds horrendous.
Actually, it is very entertaining if a bit aggravating on occasion. Most are really enjoying the independence and experience, and they interact with fellow pilgrims, particularly foreigners. One just has to remember that they are teenagers!
 
What about switching to another Camino? The Salvador/Primitivo come to mind. Buen Camino whatever you decide, SY

Hi SY

That is exactly my plan, I'm starting on September 17 out of St Jean. I prefer to do the Frances as I never done it before but if this is too busy (which is a good thing by the way) I'm planning to go to "El Norte". Personally I find that a place that is able to attract so many people has major mojo and I enjoy being part of that.

Chris
 
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I'm starting on September 17 out of St Jean
Crowds usually diminish by then. It should be "merely" busy then!

Still, major stopping points may be busy, and the last 100km will be busy as well. The weather stays good through September, so pilgrims avoiding the summer crush now go in September.
 
Actually, it is very entertaining if a bit aggravating on occasion. Most are really enjoying the independence and experience, and they interact with fellow pilgrims, particularly foreigners. One just has to remember that they are teenagers!
They are generally very cheerful and walking happily thou the odd radio playing loudly is a tad annoying but they are having a good time. The lights out time though last night was 11 and the 130 bed dorm was horrendously noisy until then!
 
They are generally very cheerful and walking happily thou the odd radio playing loudly is a tad annoying but they are having a good time. The lights out time though last night was 11 and the 130 bed dorm was horrendously noisy until then!
I feel that it is not fair to comment that there are two groups of Spanish teenagers sharing the Way, as I read it, meaning that they are simply too much!
First of all, Spain is their country!! These groups usually walk to obtain points on their curriculum, or could be a Confirmation group, or could be a sports group.
Us oldies all know how teens behave. They are teens. We have all been teens once in our lives!
Would it be nice for someone from abroad, walking, say the Francigena, or any where else, comment that ( unfortunately) there are two groups of Italian teens staying just where they are staying, or walking just where they are walking?
I know they can be annoying and make a lot of noise ( I have 7 teen grandchildren - well actually 3 are now in their early 2o's)
. To avoid these unfortunate encounters, it would make more sense NOT to stay in the more popular stop overs and at all cost, avoid large albergues!
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.

Wotbus:

These are not easy questions to answer. Mainly because we do not know your partner. Since this individual chose to walk alone and at this time, I would recommend you just let them manage their own way. Offer encouragement when needed and have a nice welcoming room in Santiago for their arrival.

Ultreya,
Joe
 
Of note, you started on a weekend in Sarria, which is about the worst possible time for volume; passing through on a Monday or midweek and stopping at smaller albergues is a good way to avoid the Sarria waves.
 


Indeed annakappa! Shamefully I must admit that last year on the Portugues I was very weary when I saw a big Scoutsgroup going into the same albergues as I. I was counting on lots of noise and running around but I honestly admit I was wrong.
Nice young adults indeed who were very respectful to us two " oldies ".
 
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Courtesy is always appropriate including "oldies" being respectful of young adults!
Indeed Falcon, it works both ways!
And then you might meet up with the numerous groups of prisoners , usually in groups of about 12 ( plus their guides/ counsellors ) who are walking various stages of the Camino. There are lots of these groups walking all through the 'season'.
 
I do apologise if you felt my comments inappropriate. I intended it to be more a comment on the numbers and the fact that some of the groups joining in Sarria were very large. As to when I started and where I should stay, sadly I was not always able to control that but it is good that old hands and Camino experts like yourself can point this out to others.
 
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Any chance that I can get an update on this situation? I am starting in Saint-Jean on the solstice.
 
It
Any chance that I can get an update on this situation? I am starting in Saint-Jean on the solstice.
It will be busy. Read the entire thread and similar ones for advice on when "waves" of pilgrims form and how to avoid them. Also, the post you're responding to is 700K after where you're starting, so not really relevant for many weeks, at which time the advice above will still apply.
 
You are welcome Kristal.
In a few days you will be tired, overwhelmet and learning things about yourself you didn't know.
Pace yourself. And smile.
Lettinggo

Dear "Lettinggo"

Now that I am back and I look back at the panic of my departure:
I searched again for out little conversation to thank you again. You really helped me to start, to trust, to let go ;-)
My Camino went sooooo smooth and all this stressed posts were so unhelpful, the hardest part for me was leaving. So if anyone reads this and stresses out about too much pilgrims: all will be fine. Just go.

Thanks again
Camino love --->

kristeL
 
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Dear KristeL
I am very happy to hear that your Camino went well and upon reflection the emotional stress you felt before departure was unneeded.
That said, to be nervous is a natural thing for anyone especially when we try to do things that are new to us.
What we have to learn is how to handle and overcome these emotions.
To let go is one way and accept, have faith, trust, not overthink. In short; deal with things when they appear and be aware of what these things truely are.
Since our conversation, I have also been on a Camino and returned home refreshed and reminded of the beauty of the Camino, people, friendships, tiredness, openness and what person I wish to be.
It has been good for me to walk a path that I have walked before and be reminded that things change.
You wrote that you had a crisis in your life before you went for your walk.
I hope you have found some answers, peace and energy to take new actions in your life!

A Camino saying:
The Camino may not give you what you want,
but it will give you what you need.

Buen Camino
Lettinggo
 

Yes, I used the Wise Pilgrim app and it was very helpful. I occasionally used it to book a place ahead when I wanted to linger along the trail and spend no time worrying about whether I would find a place to stay at the end of the day. There were also a couple of recommended albergues that accepted reservations, so I booked those, too. It was very easy.
 
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