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Accommodation - to book or not to book

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browneyedsusie

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Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances April - June 2024
I am a first time Camino pilgrim and plan to start my walk from SJPP to Santiago in late April. I have booked the first few nights (on the recommendation of a friend who walked the Camino last year) but was hoping to just book accomodation as I went along, to allow for greater flexibility with where and when I stopped, depending on how I felt, if I liked a place, if any injuries etc. Now I'm not so sure as I see so many accomodations are full for my dates already. I would love to just 'wing it' but as I am an older pilgrim, I don't fancy not have a bed for the night or having to keep pushing on to secure one. Any advice gratefully received.
 
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You can't go by sites like Booking.com if that's where you are looking, because they don't have access to all of the rooms/beds. Some places aren't on booking sites at all, and others don't accept reservations. If you aren't picky about where you stay you can usually get a bed at a municipal albergue if you don't arrive too late in the day, or you can walk farther or taxi to a place with a bed, then taxi back in the morning.
 
That's great to know. Thank you.
 
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Book as far as Pamplona. Then wing it as per advice from @trecile .
 
I , too am older. If you are not overly particular about where you sleep you do not need reservations past Zubiri. You will find perfectly acceptable ( and often wonderful) places that are not advertised on commercial websites. Look for municipal, donativo, or parochial lodging. Look at Gronze.com.

Last fall (2023) I walked the Camino from SJPDP to SDC and reserved maybe 5 or 6 nights out of 40. You can do this ! Wing it and be free.
 
I would book; at least a couple days in advance. May is peak season and smaller towns do not have enough beds to cope with the influx of pilgrims (I'm thinking Hornillos, Belorado, Castrojeriz, even Frómista...). For many, trying to sort out accommodation at the end of a long hard day is part of the experience. Not for me.
 
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As an "older" (ancient?) member I like to know where I will be staying so I book everything in advance (train ticket to the airport, flight, taxi to SJPdP, accommodation all the way to Santiago (wing the bus ride to the airport!), flight back to the UK and train ticket home). However that is me. I like to plan and have confidence in my ability and if anything goes wrong then I can sort it out either by taxi or cancelling the accommodation and going home. I have never had an issue in nearly 20 years of walking/hiking but that isn't to say that I will when I start my 3rd Camino at the end of May (all booked up). However each to their own, I like the certainty of turning up and not having the nagging feeling, whilst walking, if I'll find somewhere to put my head down that night. Do whatever you will be comfortable with.
 
Can I ask if bookings are made via email or WhatsApp? I am trying to work out what type of sim card I need to purchase.
 
I too would normally do this but not having ever done such an extended long distance walk, I just don't know how my body will handle it, despite being an active bushwalker, skier etc..
 
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This is certainly what my friend did in 2023 but 2024 seems to have had an influx of pilgrims booking accom to the point that some appear to be fully booked out eg Orisson, Borda...
 
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browneyedsusie said:
This is certainly what my friend did in 2023 but 2024 seems to have had an influx of pilgrims booking accom to the point that some appear to be fully booked out eg Orisson, Borda...
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Hi there Browney and Susie - just to give some context - Orisson has 28 places and Borda has about half that. So on any one night there are only about 40 places available. They book out quickly due to the fact that people walking the Napoleon route from SJPP, either stay at one of those two, or continue to Roncesvalles. Those circumstances are not representative of the remainder of the path. The other option, if accommodation is not available and you don't plan to walk to Roncesvalles - walk part of the way, get transport back to SJPP and up again the next day.
 
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That's good to know
 
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Atapuerca is another place that is worth booking - if available as I have seen pilgrims having to get taxis to Burgos if nothing is available locally or at San Juan de Ortega or Ages.
 
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browneyedsusie said:
but as I am an older pilgrim
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I just turned 70. I too am an old decrepit pilgrim. Doing camino 9 this October. You have early accommodations booked for a couple of nights. Don't know if that takes you to Pamplona. You did not say what kind of places you want to sleep in. Is it only good hotels, or casa rurals? Will you stay in donativos/municipal/private albergues? It makes it a little more difficult to give opinions without this information. Also how fluent are you in Spanish?
This is my suggestion. You have the first few days booked. I have no idea if you have ever walked great distances over long periods of time before. My guess is based on what you wrote, you haven't.
I would recommend the following:
I assume when you arrive in Spain you will be pretty exhausted. If you are in a big city first (Madrid probably), have a taxi take you to a Vodafone office very near to your hotel. There you can buy a Spanish Sim Card for 15 or 20 Euros and it will be more than enough data etc for 28 days. It is really easy to recharge the card. Vodafone sends you a link and you can do it in English. Takes about 2 minutes.
I think a very important aspect that I did not see discussed is that this is your first camino. You are older and you really need to learn how to walk and to listen to what your body tells you to do. Follow the rhythm of your body. Not your mind or not trying to keep up with new friends. This can be a recipe for disaster. Shin splints, exhaustion, blisters, infected blisters, tendinitis, etc. If you book even a few days ahead you will be walking to a destination instead of walking in the moment. You do not know how your body will react after days of continuous walking and when your body tells you tomorrow must be a rest day. If your Spanish is bad use a translator to make a reservation if you can't do it on Booking. Or have someone call for you that speaks Spanish. There are lots of pilgrims ready to help. If you stay in a private albergue you can call/text ahead and make a reservation and request a lower bunk because of your age. Rarely will you be denied. I have been in municipal/donativos where hospitalarios have told younger pilgrims to take top beds because they are saving the lower beds for older pilgrims.
You are nervous and full of questions. You will hopefully learn to let go as you walk. This will be facilitated by the fact that you will quickly realize after 4 or 5 days that you have this. Just stay in the moment. Have some food and water for your body as you walk, and you will be fine.
 
browneyedsusie said:
Can I ask if bookings are made via email or WhatsApp? I am trying to work out what type of sim card I need to purchase.
Click to expand...
Internet in some cases, definitely whatsapp, whch is standrad here (even for iphone users). I would definitely recommend having a working phone while here. Some places expect you to call before arriving, especially if arriving after a certain time (you may lose your booking/bed if not paid in advance). Gronze.com has a great listing for all/most of the towns for each Camino. I believe this forum also has a comprhensive list that is regularly updated. I tend to use booking.com as a first option, as i am not always staying at albergues/shared dorms.
 
Here are places I plan to book before leaving when I walk the Frances again: SJPDP, Orisson/Borda, Roncesvalles (hotel, because my experience at the albergue was suboptimal; others may differ), Zubiri, Puenta de la Reina, and Santiago. After that, it's a judgment call based on the number of walkers on the route and number of amenable facilities at the next stop(s). I like being able to focus on the experience of the walk, and being concerned about getting a bed detracts from that for me. In my experience, the camino does not always provide conditions for a decent night's sleep--as I found out when the only option available in one town was on a cold and damp cellar floor. To be clear, I rarely ran into problems finding a place, but when I did, it was not fun.

On another note, while local SIM cards can be helpful, check to make sure your phone is not SIM-locked, which is often the case with US phones. My last trip to Europe, I decided to buy my cell provider's international plan for a month, which wasn't super cheap, but simplified things for me. I also connected to wifi when it was available.
 
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Be aware that May 1st is a holiday and many Spanish walk for days/week. If you are leaving one of the common starting points (Roncesvalles, Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos, Leon) you may have trouble getting a bed. I have learned the hard way (as in a very long day and got the last bed.)
 
Generally, I say wing it from Pampona but I fear this year is going to be super busy.
I just finished booking Logrono to Astorga and was shocked/surprised at how many places were already completo after the middle of April. I guess it all comes down to how flexible you are willing/able to be.
 
Thank you for that, I wasn't aware!
 
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Lots of good advice as always.

Watch out for the choke points like Roncesvalles and Zubiri and book those.
booking . con only shows a small % of the beds. (only those allocated to them)
If you are really choosy about the type of place, maybe book a few days ahead.
Stay out of Pilgrim 'waves'.
In busy periods avoid the 'obvious' overnight stops.

Having said all that, I walked on the Frances for just 3 days in May last year, crossing from the VdlP to the Invierno.

It was crazy busy!
There was talk about a group of 90+ Koreans taking up all the beds as they moved along.

I walked into a Donativo in Rabanal, and got a bed.
It never filled up.

I walked into an Albergue in El Acebo and got a bed.
It never filled up..........

Just saying........

If you are set on private rooms in a specific place, then maybe book a day or three ahead.
 
Hi - I'm walking about the same time as you and coming from NZ. Since it's a long way, and I might be pretty tired upon arrival, I've booked through to Pamplona. After that I will wing it, or plan a day at a time. By then I will have "learned the ropes".

I've just finished reading a book about someone's journey on the Camino Frances. She booked every single night in advance from start to end, and no rest stops. She ended up walking with blood blisters under her toenails and was "obligated" to keep going to keep up with the accommodation bookings. Certainly don't want that kind of Camino!
 
browneyedsusie said:
Can I ask if bookings are made via email or WhatsApp? I am trying to work out what type of sim card I need to purchase.
Click to expand...
You can make bookings via WhatsApp but I found email or phone easier for me to use (using google translate for emails - and I learnt the words for a phone booking off by heart and waited for the person to say Si - they know its a pilgrim on the other end)
I usually received a very prompt reply from emails - and if I didn't get a response within about 18 hours then the place was probably closed, and I would look for something else. I used Skype calls for phone calls very successfully - I had a data only eSim. Occasionally I asked a hospitalario to help. My last Camino - VDLP - I only looked for vacancies if I was landing in a bigger town or tourist town over a weekend. I also opted more for albergues where you couldn't book ahead - but then the Via is not that busy. I plan to walk the Frances again and will use the same strategies - but then again, I even as an older person I am not too fussy where I sleep.
 
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Harland2019 said:
Atapuerca is another place that is worth booking - if available as I have seen pilgrims having to get taxis to Burgos if nothing is available locally or at San Juan de Ortega or Ages.
Click to expand...
Yes, anywhere that is a tourist or archeological town it's probably best to book (unless they have a lot of pilgrim only accommodation and you tend to arrive at your destinations around 2.00 pm) - particularly if it's a weekend. Last Camino I was caught out a couple of time when I lost track of the days - OMG its Saturday!
 
Harland2019 said:
Atapuerca is another place that is worth booking - if available as I have seen pilgrims having to get taxis to Burgos if nothing is available locally or at San Juan de Ortega or Ages.
Click to expand...
Thank you. I'll have a look at the accom there.
 
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Thanks Robo. From all the advice that I have received here, I have now booked a bed up to Pamplona. After that, I'll see how I go. I want to be able to factor in a rest day here and there too, and this is dependant on how I'm going, so if I can get away with just winging it, I'll try.
 
Thanks Rita, I will try and roughly estimate when I will be in Atapuerca to prebook accom. It's so hard...never having done such an extended walk before kto know how my body will manage.
 
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That is definitely what I don't want to end up doing. My friend only booked two nights out of her entire journey last year on the Camino Frances and had no trouble getting a bed, but that was last year... this year things seem to have changed a bit, but I'm with you. I'm now booked up until Pamplona and then I'll see how I go. Couldn't get into Orisson or Borda (all booked out) so walking from St Michel. It only shortens my journey by 5km, but every little bit helps. I'll look out fo you on the trail Sarah. Buen Camino.
 
browneyedsusie said:
Thanks Rita, I will try and roughly estimate when I will be in Atapuerca to prebook accom. It's so hard...never having done such an extended walk before kto know how my body will manage.
Click to expand...
Oh, we don't know what we can do until we do it. On my first Camino I thought just getting to SJPP was an achievement - everything that followed was icing on the cake. I couldn't imagine making it to Santiago till the last couple of weeks - slow and steady, listen to your body, take the support of fellow pilgrims - and you will get there. <3
 
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I was 59 in 2002 and none of the WiFi whiz tech was available. 17 lbs in my Kelty, later a Vaude. Hardly anyone in Colorado Springs, including REI, had a clue where I was going. "Pilgrimage across Spain... are you like a nun, or something?" (Ah, no!) Roncesvalles to Zubiri, did not like the look of refugio, hotel at end of street looked grey and grim, turned around and ended up freezing my derriere under three wool blankets and that d***ed REI "sleep sack" on a floor mattress in Lorrasoana. Pretty good mileage for a newbie ... and with Lady Scarpas, brand new, too! Oh, in a couple of days, that long walk in new boots with no Spanish and no "Apps," remember, snorers everywhere and a streaming cold from Santo Domingo ... I was hurting, blistered, lonely, coughing, sneezing and two things kept me going: Cafe solo, and, I was utterly unafraid. I knew I could do it, not a shadow of a doubt. 36 days later, I was crying my eyes out in the Cathedral. 08 April 2024, 79 years young, overweight, underexercised, awash in Polartec, ECCO sandals and Apps out the kazoo, I am doing it again. My fervent prayer? Forget. The. Past. / This. Is. Now. / Just Be.
 
I do have a question concerning accommodations on the MESETA, from BURGOS to LEON.
Does the Forum recommend booking in advance and if so how much in advance?
I plan on arriving in BURGOS on Thursday and leaving this coming Saturday.
 
You'll get a lot if answers here, but I don't book and usually stay in places that don't take reservations anyway.
 
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It depends on what you want out of the Camino. For my first Camino (CF 2022), I prebooked the entire distance from SJPDP to Santiago. Glad i did because it was a busy time (May/June) with lots of penned up demand due to the pandemic and holy year.

I wanted an albergue experience, so I mostly booked at albergues the first week. I enjoyed it but made me realize that I like my privacy. Fortunately, most of the rest of my bookings were at places with private rooms with a private bath. I was able to change a few along the way and/or upgrade to private rooms because I mostly booked places that had reasonable cancel by dates.

Like you, I'm an older pilgrim and know my limits. For me, I know that I can sustain an average of about 12 miles per day, so that was the target I used to prebook. Sometimes I needed to go a little farther and sometimes a little shorter but it averaged out in the end.

For my next Camino (CP May/June 2024), I have already prebooked all the way from Porto to Santiago.
 
J Willhaus said:
You'll get a lot if answers here, but I don't book and usually stay in places that don't take reservations anyway.
Click to expand...
This answer reminds me of what is referred to in France as « une réponse de Normands » (an answer from people out of Normandy who will answer negatively and then answer positively or vice-versa.
 
I was so sure about making a stop at Orisson, and had all my personal stages planned, because I didn't want a full on start (I'm planning Frances + salvador + primitivo) in 45 days, so I wanted a progressive start; but Orisson is all booked!! I'm starting to get anxious now (I'm really good at it) and I don't want the worrying about where to sleep or having to book everything in advance to add stress to my walk. But well..I guess I'll have to walk all the way to roncesavalles....let's see how it goes on my first day!
 
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@NinaCamina ,
You can arrange to walk part way up, then be picked up by the shuttle, then back to St Jean and the next morning be dropped off again where you stopped the day before. 2 nights in St Jean.
 

First Camino - age 56 - a bit fit but not great - didn’t know you could stay at Orisson. I only just got out of St Jean and I was puffing and panting and needing a stop. I can’t even remember having food with me. I eventually got to Roncesvalles - phew. Still one of the most memorable days of all my Caminos.
 
You just gave me the hopes I needed
I saw so many people saying how hard this stage is and to not give all we have on the first day, and all, but I have no choice now! hahaha and well, we can make it
 
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NinaCamina said:
You just gave me the hopes I needed
I saw so many people saying how hard this stage is and to not give all we have on the first day, and all, but I have no choice now! hahaha and well, we can make it
Click to expand...
Great attitude Nina. That's exactly how I'm going to approach my walk, taking one step at a time and facing whatever challenges are thrown at me.
 
Thankyou for your very informative reply It56ny. Great points that you raise. To answer your questions: I have booked all the way to & including Pamplona. I am happy to sleep in any establishment from donativos to municipal and private albergues. Unfortunately I do not speak Spanish and suppose that I will rely heavily on google translate and signing. It's managed to help me to travel around the world for the past 40 years without any issues (but lots of laughs from both parties along the way). I'm an avid bushwalker and skier and have been doing so for 40+ years on a regular basis. The one difference here is that I normally have a 20-25kg pack on multi day hikes and this time I'm trying to keep my pack weight down to 10kg (which includes 2L of water if needed).
I have never done such a long, continuous hike and so am reluctant to go forth and prebook any more accom as I want to see how my body handles the Camino and may take a rest day before moving on. I've just completed three weeks of day walks, hiking every day for 20+km without any issues. Needed to check that my new boots would handles all types of terrains in all sorts of weather - Tasmania is great for throwing 4 seasons in one day at you!
Thanks to my nursing background, I totally understand your concerns for me regarding injuries of all natures. Thank you. One of the heaviest items in my pack, @ 1.5kg is my first aid kit! Hopefully I'm prepared for any eventuality. I have also packed a liner/bivvy bag that in an emergency I could use if there is no accomodation available but this is certainly not my preference. I like creature comforts the older I get. Some of my travel has been multiple times to Japan where the older adult seems to be revered (special seats in gondolas, transport, accom perks etc) so I would be delighted to be able to get a lower bunk when possible. More so though because I'd be worried about rolling out of the bed in the night rather than having the ability to climb up (ex rock climber too)!
My major concern is navigation going over the Pyrenees. It's pretty dodgy at best so unless the track is clearly defined, I might take a sheep track! Unfortunately, I'm staying the first night at Hunto as Orisson and Borda were fully booked for my dates, so I will have no option but to tackle Roncevalles the following day from there. Hoping to get the energy bars that worked so well for our long hikes in the UK - Cliff's bars. Looking at a few trail apps (All Trails and Maps.me - any other recommendations) to get some offline maps which hopefully will help keep me on the Camino. And I hope to take whatever the Camino brings and also give back along the way.
 
J Willhaus said:
You'll get a lot if answers here, but I don't book and usually stay in places that don't take reservations anyway.
Click to expand...
I think that is what my friend did, but she always finished her days walk at 12md so had no difficulty getting a bed. I think that I would probably walk till 2 or so as I love just taking my time and enjoying all the sights along the way. For me, the destination is not goal, enjoying the journey is more important....and I love taking photos
 
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I'm sure that I'll be the same going up this incredible mountain incline, but I plan on taking my time and stopping lots. Hopefully it will be as memorable for me as it was for you.
 
Oh...I don't even know where I'll be then...so unfortunately won't be able to prebook until I'm a little further in my journey. Fingers crossed I get a bed.
 
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It's so tempting to do that but I really want to be able to stop if I liked a town and not have to keep walking to get to pre booked accom. Love the security of knowing that I have a bed booked but not too sure if I want to forgo the flexibility of not booking. Oh, to have a crystal ball!!
 
browneyedsusie said:
. I have also packed a liner/bivvy bag that in an emergency I could use if there is no accomodation available but this is certainly not my preference.
My major concern is navigation going over the Pyrenees.
Click to expand...
I really don’t think you need a bivvy bag on the camino francés but hey, just my opinion!
Also, going ‘over’ the Pyrénées is very well marked, you’ll be surprised. The worst (steep) climb is going to Orrisson/Borda but it’s only 8kms. After that, it is just a steady climb, nothing as demanding. And you always know where to go (even I did! )
The only thing to watch out for is when you get to the top, there is one way through the forest and one way through an easier path (essential if it’s been raining). Look at older forum threads where people explain which way to go, I’m the worst person to give directions
You’ll be fine
 
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Hi Domigee, an old habit from bushwalking in the Australian Alps means the stuff sac used to keep everything dry in the pack can double as a bivvy bag if needed. I didn't think I'd need it unless my terrible navigation skills gets me lost! Thanks for the advice regarding the two tracks. I've been watching the weather patterns and will certainly call into SJPP Pilgrim office for the latest update before I leave. I'll try and find some clear directions for the paths in older threads.
 
Anniesantiago said:
I fear this year is going to be super busy.
Click to expand...
Out of curiosity, why do you think so? Is there a place where I can find data on this year's traffic? I ask because I will start my first camino from SJPP on 29 April (perhaps I am contributing to this issue!). Thanks.
 
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LostFound said:
Out of curiosity, why do you think so? Is there a place where I can find data on this year's traffic? I ask because I will start my first camino from SJPP on 29 April (perhaps I am contributing to this issue!). Thanks.
Click to expand...
1. Looking at the numbers who are already arriving in Santiago this early in the season.
2. I have a FB Planning Group and I'm seeing a ton of people leaving in April/May
3. Other FB groups where people are leaving April/May
 
Anniesantiago said:
1. Looking at the numbers who are already arriving in Santiago this early in the season.
2. I have a FB Planning Group and I'm seeing a ton of people leaving in April/May
3. Other FB groups where people are leaving April/May
Click to expand...
Thanks, Anne. Too late for me to change my plan - also, May is the most feasible window for me to do a full camino this year.
 
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