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accommodation in Auxerre and..is this camino well way-marked?

gypsy9

Active Member
Bon jour!
I am thinking of beginning my camino in Auxerre (as posters suggest it is a place well worth visiting and I am in no rush!)

Can you suggest pilgrim type accommodation in Auxerre please?

Is the trail to Vezelay on the main road or is there a walking trail that is well signed?
I would also like a guide in English to show towns, distances and gites on the Vezelay route to SJPP.

Or do you suggest walking from Vezelay to Le Puy en Velay?
(I have walked part of this beautiful camino)

Is the Vezelay way-marked as my French is minimal!??

I know it is possible to book accommodation in Tourist Information Centres on Chemin du Puy .
Is this also possible on the Vezelay route? Perhaps this is not necessary as this camino is not as crowded with walkers/pilgrims/short term hikers...?

I am having a tricky time finding current information.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I would very much like to spend time in Vezelay also
I am drawn to this area.

Thank you all kindly for taking the time to view these queries
 
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gypsy9,

In Auxerre a fine place to stay for walkers and pilgrims is the La Maison des Randonneurs. It is a hub of activity for walking in the area. Their web site also provides handy links for Vezelay info. All info is in French but Google translate will provide readable English quickly.

Happy planning,

Margaret Meredith
 
Thank you kindly MM.
Have you walked the Vezelay route and is this well way-marked?
(Vezelay to Le Puy) or Vezelay to SJPP...just wondering...but will check out the site you suggested (with translation)
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Thank you kindly MM.
Have you walked the Vezelay route and is this well way-marked?
(Vezelay to Le Puy) or Vezelay to SJPP...just wondering...but will check out the site you suggested (with translation)
Gypsy9,

I have not walked the Vezelay route but I have walked from our farmhouse in Champagne down to Vezelay. You can read about that 2008 walk here. Plans were to walk down through France to SJPdP continuing to Santiago but my legs and the weather did not agree! Vezelay Abbey and la colline eternelle has been a love of mine for fifty years or so; it is a VERY special spot.

Enjoy your research,

Margaret Meredith

 
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Is the Vezelay way-marked as my French is minimal!??
In some places it is well marked, but markings are the responsibility of local groups, so they completely disappear in places. Without a guidebook I think you will become lost regularly. With a guidebook I was bewildered at least a dozen times.

There are GR routes everywhere in France, and they share the same red and white balises. I am sure there is one from Auxerre to Vezelay, but I do not know that first hand. I took the train to Avallon, then a taxi to Vezelay. You can walk from the Avallon train station to Vezelay (about 16km), but a French fellow pilgrim had reserved a taxi (they do not hang around the station), and offered to share it. Easy start.

The excellent guide book by the Amis et Pelerins is no longer published annually, but you should try to find an old copy. The accommodations may have gone stale, but the route will be mostly the same. A lot of the accommodations are in the homes of volunteers, and they change regularly. I can tell you that regularly staying in private homes is a highlight. No one speaks English, and my French is minimal, my brother's less, but we had hours-long conversations in smiles, hand gestures, and repeated vocabulary lessons. They left me happy and exhausted. I don't think we met a dozen other pilgrims in a month.
 
Gypsy9, I followed the Vezelay route as part of my Camino last year. It's very well signposted. Before going, I was reading on this forum and elsewhere about all the conflicting paths and misdirections, but in fact it seemed very clear. The best guide for the route is the one published by Madame Chassain (in French, with a Dutch translation available but no English version), but sadly the latest one dates from 2011 because Madame Chassain unfortunately fell ill. The local pilgrim groups are extremely active, especially around Reims where the route extends back towards the Belgian border, carrying those Dutch pilgrims who walk from home. In Reims cathedral the Amis sell their own guides to the route as far as Vezelay, though I have only seen Dutch and French versions of this book. It's possible there is a version that continues from Vezelay - it might be worth trying to Google the Amis in Reims and contacting them. I cannot stress enough how enthusiastic they are, and how keen to give out information! In Vezelay itself, when I was there at least, there was strangely little information available about the Chemin and I found no guides for sale. However, a good detailed map would actually be more helpful even than the Chassain guide. You can obtain a list of pilgrim accommodations at the pilgrim welcome office near the Basilica, and those you stay with along the way can update you on who to stay with further along
 
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There is constant improvement of balises. From the Amis et Pelerins:

Markup of the way of Vézelay
balise_eur.jpg

tag in place since 2012 with the name of the association
Basic role
The markup is the responsibility of each association Jacquaire. Friends and Pilgrims of Saint-Jacques Way of Vézelay promote harmonization markup based on the theme of European shell. They provide markup Vézelay Eguzon nearly 600 km on the northern branch via Bourges and Nevers via the South branch. tags with the design of the shell and bronze triangles recall laid until 2011 are gradually replaced since 2012 by the new tags representing the European shell. The name of the association "Friends and Pilgrims of Saint-Jacques Way of Vézelay" is now engraved on the tags that we put in place of or in addition.

balise-bronze_triangle.jpg

tags disappearing gradually
Tags endangered
Tag with the design of the shell bronze, raised until 2011, was abandoned, with the exception of some sections marked by a strong associative tradition. The same goes for the triangles point (cut edge of the tag) that were their places between successive beacons.

balise_croix.jpg

This tag indicates a direction not to take. It bears the name of the association
Tag Cross
When the directional markup is impossible to implement, mainly due to lack of support, a tag-cross can be placed in the direction that we should not take. It is also marked by the name of the association.
chatelus-le-marcheix%28photo_md%29.jpg

GR markup, which can be different from the History Channel
Warning!
For several years, we report the pilgrims different markup the route of the path of the historic Way of Vézelay. Such markings are set up - mostly in Nièvre and Berry (Cher and Indre, North and South branches) but also Gironde - by associations, organizations and public authorities, who advocate a different route from that of the historic Way of Vézelay.

coquille-bronze%28photo_md%29.jpg

bronze shell, symbol of the Way of Vézelay
Shell bronze
Shell bronze emblem of the unit prestige Via Lemovicensis. On the occasion of the Holy Year 1999, these bronze shells were located in the ancient city of Périgueux and inaugurated for St. Jacques, July 25. At the time of its inception, the Association of Friends of Saint-Jacques Way of Vézelay was able to obtain exclusivity in France this shell bronze, thanks to an agreement with the creator of this Jacobean emblem supplemented by a deposit INPI, the sole benefit of the whole Via Lemovicensis to benefit the most remarkable sites. thus acquired is the ability to materialize the way to Saint-Jacques in the remarkable places in the way of Vézelay which the shell becomes the unit emblem of elegance and prestige quality enrich and beautify the heritage path. In 2001, after Périgueux, the bronze shells were implemented at the start of the track, even Vézelay , and in Haute-Vienne, Limoges and Saint-Léonard-de-Noblat, reminding after Aymery Picaud, the importance of the Limousin and its capital for this route that bears its name. In 2002 this implementation continued in Creuse, The Underground (opening July 25) and Dordogne, in Port-Sainte-Foy (opening August 25). early 2003, it was at Saint-Sever in Landes, they were opened on February 16 and July 19 to Pellegrue, Gironde. In 2005, they were inaugurated on 7 May in Issoudun (Indre), then implemented in Thiviers (Dordogne), in November. since 2006 also adorn Châteauroux Indre and Neuvy-Saint-Sepulchre. In 2007, it was the turn of Deols and Bazas owning this elegant symbol. And on the occasion of the inauguration of August 30, 2008 pilgrim refuge of Saint-Ferme (Gironde), bronze shells adorn the perimeter of Abbey. Cities have expressed interest. Their exceptional quality was emphasized from the outset by the Buildings France themselves by giving their consent to the establishment.

apres_flavignac%28photo_md%29.jpg

after the storm
But also ...
Parallel to the markup, there is the problem of road maintenance. Associations endeavor is to ensure the maintenance themselves or get involved municipalities to do what is necessary. Despite this, it can always happen that way (or a portion of the road) is more or less overgrown and that the transition will be hindered thereby. maintenance of the markup is done periodically by the associations replace missing or damaged tags. They also take informed the authorities of the state of degradation path found.

Updated: February 14, 2014
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
I am leavingfor Vezelay in another month and am using the Sentier vers Sain-Jacques de Compostelle via Vezelay-Perigueux a small handbook with maps available here:
http://livre.fnac.com/a4082276/Coll...vers-Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle-via-Vezelay

Not always the "traditional" route but I have great difficulties following guidebooks and recommended directions-it allows me to range free and find what I want to see-out of the way monasteries, churches, vineyards etc-most guides have one set off east from Vezelay for Saint-Pere then south for Tannay-I will leave due west for Clamecy! Written in the French language which I do not know but after twenty pages of mechanical translation over the internet-it is now easy for me to follow-turn right turn left straight on are phrases quickly learned -places of obvious interest are worth the effort to actually translate. Bon Marche Bon Camino
 
Bless those Way-marking Dutch!
Thanks for all your replies. I am officially excited. Maps are a good way to go, Scruffy...and within a reasonable budget.
I am leaving at the end of May and so hope to possibly read your updates!? (BON CHEMIN!)

Will look into the following guide book by the Amis et Pelerins also
My French is on par with your brother Falcon (possibly even less)

Are there Tourist Offices along this Camino (I note yes in Vezelay). But seems not necessary to book ahead (as on Chemin du Puy)??
I am hoping basic gites are available for pilgrims...I will out soon enough.

MM, Vezelay Abbey looks very special indeed.
Spirit of Mary Magdalene alive in this town I am told
is it possible for pilgrims to stay over night in the Abby...dorm style..?
 
Last edited:
Gypsy9,

Yes, pilgrims may stay at the abbey. No reservations to stay as a pilgrim are needed. See this French page for more info.

MM
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
There are in fact different options:
- a camino marked by the different pilgrim associations along the way. (marked as Falcon posted here)
- the GR waymarkings (white and red signs).

From Auxerre to Vézelay, you should follow these GR signs; it's a 2 days walk. This alternative part has not been waymarked by the local association (because it is a little detour...)
(and accomodation in la "maison du Randonneur" - 'the walkers' home' - is quite nice; they can give you some advice for a nice dinner); the pilgrim's association did not waymark this way.

If you decide to go ahead on train, there is a station in Sermicelles, and there should still be a shuttle service to Vezelay.

You have to decide in Vézelay whether to follow the GR or the pilgrims' path (the "historical way"), and if you decide to head onwards on the historical way, directly leaving Vezelay you have to decide whether you take the northern alternative (via Bourges) or the southern (via Nevers).

As to the pilgrims' path from Reims to Troyes (or further onwards ???), it was not waymarked at all in 2011, you just got a way description in the cathedral of Reims. At that time, they did not have a real way description from Troyes to Vezelay, but I think, they have meanwhile published new information...

Bon chemin, all the best
 
....

As to the pilgrims' path from Reims to Troyes (or further onwards ???), it was not waymarked at all in 2011, you just got a way description in the cathedral of Reims. At that time, they did not have a real way description from Troyes to Vezelay, but I think, they have meanwhile published new information...

The "they" to which Fatima refers in her informative post is a French hiking association called RP51. They have an information booth in Reims cathedral and have opened a new gite in Rocroi. Their 2014 guidebook , Les Chemins de Saint- Jacques de Compostelle de la Champagne a la Bourgogne details the route Rocroi, Reims, Sezanne, Troyes, to Vezelay
 
I think my previous post got a little lost among all the huge links and photos! So I say again, this route is very clearly marked. I walked last year taking in the route through Reims, Troyes and Vezelay and onwards, and the waymarking was very good. I had the Chassain guide but found I preferred to use a map and look out for the waymarks. The pilgrim associations are very active along this route - several times I was startled by a passerby racing over to introduce themself as a pilgrim helper and giving me helpful numbers/web addresses etc. You will be well looked after
 
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Thank you all again so much.
I have been making notes. The new gite in Rocroi with the shiny sign of the scallop is adding an extra wave of excitement!
Metro, your reassuring post (by two in fact) is now noted and greatly appreciated. In fact I laughed aloud as
I had an image of an enthusiastic passer-by rushing over to meet, greet and assist you (in French, no doubt). Such friendliness is one of the many joys of the Camino.
If the route is well signed and there are some Tourist offices, I should be fine. But yes, one expects the unexpected too!
Seems a beautiful camino....and rather quiet in terms of crowds and such...what more....
 
I have not had a chance to download or look at the links, jd-piguet
But I certainly will!
Thankyou for the offer to assist with translation. I will be using babel fish to start with and you may well hear back from me..
 
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I think my previous post got a little lost among all the huge links and photos!

Well, it maybe used less space than other posts - but I am really confident that anyone interested in the subject will read all the answers we write with the same attention… ;)
Good to know that they definitely finished their guidebook from Rocroi till Vézelay - but you still have to decide whether to follow a GR or the yellow arrows.

I personally decided to mix up the different options due to the time at my disposal (and my wish to stroll a little longer around in Burgundy, to see Auxerre and Chablis…)

@Metropolly: did you take the Northern or Southern way?
 
Well, it maybe used less space than other posts - but I am really confident that anyone interested in the subject will read all the answers we write with the same attention… ;)
Good to know that they definitely finished their guidebook from Rocroi till Vézelay - but you still have to decide whether to follow a GR or the yellow arrows.

I personally decided to mix up the different options due to the time at my disposal (and my wish to stroll a little longer around in Burgundy, to see Auxerre and Chablis…)

@Metropolly: did you take the Northern or Southern way?
I went via Nevers, but am now drawn to returning to Gargilesse to walk via Bourges to Vezelay then over the hills to Le Puy, possibly in the next few weeks. Mixing it up, as you did, is definitely a good idea. The reason I was so keen for my post not to get lost was that I was made a little nervous before walking via Vezelay last year, by all the threads about conflicting signposts/different paths. But in fact when I walked all the paths were waterlogged anyway so I and most other pilgrims I met just opted to walk along the roads instead - no harm done! So I think it's important not to confuse the issue too much for people coming to this route for the first time
 
Thank you all again so much.
I have been making notes. The new gite in Rocroi with the shiny sign of the scallop is adding an extra wave of excitement!
Metro, your reassuring post (by two in fact) is now noted and greatly appreciated. In fact I laughed aloud as
I had an image of an enthusiastic passer-by rushing over to meet, greet and assist you (in French, no doubt). Such friendliness is one of the many joys of the Camino.
If the route is well signed and there are some Tourist offices, I should be fine. But yes, one expects the unexpected too!
Seems a beautiful camino....and rather quiet in terms of crowds and such...what more....
Gypsy, I'm so glad you're reassured. There is really nothing difficult about this route, and the walking is much easier than either the Le Puy or Arles routes. Even without waymarks you would not get lost, as long as you have a decent map. I admit it might have been slightly easier for me because I speak pretty ropey French but with great enthusiasm, and most people I met found it a source of great amusement and kept trying to get me to say more things. That might be why they seemed so helpful! The funny image you had was spot on - I actually tried to hide from one of the Amis at one point when I'd had quite enough help for one day. Bon chemin!
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.

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