A woman alone on the Norte?

[woodswoman]

I walked the Camino Frances in September and October 2013 alone and felt quite safe. I will walk again in 2015, but am considering the Norte. Just got an e-mail from another of the solo women I met last year, who has been talking with some pilgrims about the Norte. Their reports were that the Norte often required much longer walks hetween much less available albergues, and that there were parts of the Norte that should not be walked alone.

Does anyone have any feedback about that? I'm not a wimp or a worry-wart, but I'm not careless about my personal safety either. Can I hear from solo women who have walked the Norte?

 

[Olivares]

This is my next choice for a Camino walk, so I will be interested to learned as well. There are parts on the Frances that required longer walks (i.e. 17 Kms Carrion de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza) with no infrastructure in between, so that is not new....

 

[woodswoman]

This is my next choice for a Camino walk, so I will be interested to learned as well. There are parts on the Frances that required longer walks (i.e. 17 Kms Carrion de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza) with no infrastructure in between, so that is not new....

I'm not concerned about 17 km. walks, but I am not committed to 30 km. walks per day, especially if there are no towns in between. That one from Carrion to Calzadilla de la Cueza was difficult because it was very hot, no breeze, the "picnic" areas had been turned into latrines and one couldn't even sit to eat a sandwich, the smell was so bad! We all fell into Calzadilla where the albergue had a new swimming pool.

Perhaps we will both get some good info from other women who have done solo walks on the Norte.

 

[Paulina]

I walked CN in May just by myself. It is true,there is less accommodation than Frances and sometimes I had to walked long distances for that reason. But definitely I will do it again with no reserves my wonderful solo walking,specially CN gave me beautiful landscape,silence,delicious smells,rain and sun but no danger at all. I have nothing to say about those no recommendable paths to avoid without company. Please enjoy and I hope some people give you more insight about your question. Buen Camino.

 

[nidarosa]

Hi, I have been thinking about the Norte too though I don't know yet if I will be doing it alone - knowing my kind of walking partners we might be walking with some distance between us and possibly just meeting up in the evenings. Can I just ask what your friends had heard was scary/dangerous/not advisable? Is it the danger of getting lost, no one will find you if you are injured, or that there are people around who might hurt or harm you?

 

[woodswoman]

Hi, I have been thinking about the Norte too though I don't know yet if I will be doing it alone - knowing my kind of walking partners we might be walking with some distance between us and possibly just meeting up in the evenings. Can I just ask what your friends had heard was scary/dangerous/not advisable? Is it the danger of getting lost, no one will find you if you are injured, or that there are people around who might hurt or harm you?

I have just written to ask my friend and see if she remembers more details about her conversation with the people she talked with.

 

[nidarosa]

Thank you. My impression is that the Camino - all of them - are a pretty safe place to be for a woman of any age travelling alone and I just wanted to clarify if there was some specific threat or danger that made the Norte different to the others. I am hoping to walk it without the very long stages and bivi-and-tarp it in between, and that is the only thing that worries me slightly. But I realise that has more to do with not being used to it than anything else. But of course, if there is something women should be alert to, I would rather know!

 

[mralisn]

Hello all,

Walked the CN in June-July 2010, the Holy Year, and again this summer incorporating the Camino Primitivo. Returned home last week.

Irun-Primitivo-SdC-Muxia-Fisterra, 34 days.

Very true there are less refugios compared to the Super Highway CF, but there are tons more now than there were only a few years ago. At no time pressured to walk any further than desired. While my walks range from 24 to 32km, it was very easy to walk a bit more or a bit less. One day only 18km and one day near 50km. The weather was especially pleasurable along the coast, so really didn't have to worry about very high heat. Lucky in that there were only a few hours of rain in all the weeks. This leads to longer walking days since sunlight is plentiful. Perhaps luck on my side.

The point being, there are many more options of places to stay and growing. It was great to stay in places which didn't exist on '10. At the same time, there are places like Guemes which I wouldn't skip ever.

As far as walking alone, as you know, one is never alone. We always keep our wits about us no matter when/where we travel.

You will love to walk the CN. It is such an incredible experience being much different than the CF. There are beautiful people who walk which enhances the experience.

Please do not hesitate to ask more about the CN or the CP (Primitivo). Who knows, you might find yourself on the CP as did 5 of my Camino family members who had no idea there was this option. They all made it just fine. Would be more than happy to assist anyway I can.

No matter what you choose, you will be returning. Exciting!

Keep a smile,
Simeon

 

[Rajy62]

I walked the Camino Frances in September and October 2013 alone and felt quite safe. I will walk again in 2015, but am considering the Norte. Just got an e-mail from another of the solo women I met last year, who has been talking with some pilgrims about the Norte. Their reports were that the Norte often required much longer walks hetween much less available albergues, and that there were parts of the Norte that should not be walked alone.

Does anyone have any feedback about that? I'm not a wimp or a worry-wart, but I'm not careless about my personal safety either. Can I hear from solo women who have walked the Norte?

I completed most of Norte (20 days) and Primitivo in June. Your concerns about longer walking distance and the availability of alberques are not warranted, although there are less accommodation options than frances.. I would get a good guidebook with current accommodation info and plan your stages that suits your needs. I staged my walk and kept the distances to about 20-25k, staying mostly in private alberques and hostels. And occasionally i would take a bus/taxi in/out of major towns to reduce the walking distance. w.r.t safety for solo women, i saw more females peregrinos than men for some reason, that is a male perspective of course. You can find my stages here: http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...of-norte-primitivo-may-25-june-27-2014.27811/

 

[michryan]

Hi, I have been thinking about the Norte too though I don't know yet if I will be doing it alone - knowing my kind of walking partners we might be walking with some distance between us and possibly just meeting up in the evenings. Can I just ask what your friends had heard was scary/dangerous/not advisable? Is it the danger of getting lost, no one will find you if you are injured, or that there are people around who might hurt or harm you?

Nidarosa and other women who are contemplating the CN. I walked in 2011 and can't say enough good stuff about it. It is a beautiful and very rewarding walk. Although I have not walked the CF to compare but as I have walked many other walks around the world I have to say it is one worth the effort. I will say if you are wanting a relaxing stroll through the countryside (although there are quite a few sections that will give this) this is not for you. I won't lie there are challenging parts. Especially the first week. Be aware of the mud if it rains. Going down hill in the mud it's hard. Yes you can go distance before stopping but as I always say day three and those hiking legs kick in just walk. Again I won't lie. I did get lost a few times. I didn't have a map just followed arrows and sometime if not looking can miss but in every instance a local helped me out. They were the most wonderful people who where so excited to help a pilgrim along. Sometimes even if not needed. It was like their duty to look after us. Never once did I feel in danger. There were always other pilgrims around at some point. If you are really scared of being injured and no one finding you I would advise get an e-pirb. (Personal location beacon). I don't take mine for the camino but when I go bush in Australia I Do.
All I can say is you do the CN you will be experiencing one of the most beautiful walks I have done. Do remember all walks no matter where in the world have their hard (mentally, emotionally, physically) parts but that is part of the way. That is part of the challenge in life. Makes for a rewarding return when you experience the best of the walk. Buen camino.

 

[nidarosa]

Thank you, that was the impression I had and you have just reinforced it! I'm not really a worrier and not scared of walking alone but I wanted to know what this non specific threat could be. On all my walks so far there have been two slightly dodgy moments but nothing bad happened. Not specifying what might be dangerous to lone women will make some women choose other options - and possibly for no reason!

 

[michryan]

No matter where you are in the world there are dangers bits just the way it is. Always be smart. Aware of your surroundings. Don't be gullible and don't put yourself in a vulnerable position. And most of all listen and trust your gut. It makes you feel uneasy or not sure for a reason. That is the best you can do. Not a guarantee but odds are better. Just breathe and enjoy. You will have a great time no matter what way you go.

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi Simeon, Raj, and Michryan
So kind of you all to keep updates coming thru on the Norte/primitivo route. I read all the posts. I'm also in the band of merry pilgrims setting off in sept. (Irun 2/9/14). It's very exciting and I guess my mind tries to blank out the words like hard, and mud etc as I'm trying to start this Camino in a positive frame of mind. But I do Thankyou for the reality check. Best to know what you're up for. (Always knowing, Raj's advice regarding one can always get a bus /taxi if you need it). No one needs to prove that they are superwoman.

Simeon
I'm glad you added a few of your averages day lengths after quoting it took you 34 days, so that any of us who are not as revved up as you; can read into (your 34 ) an extra 10 to 15(hope not) more days. In other words I won't be comparing my days to anyone else's as it will take what it will take. (Arriving fitter I hope than I start !)'. Still nice to know a baseline though. Ps you did walk to fin. and Muxia or bus that bit . I bussed that bit last year and have no regrets about that.

Michryan ,
I've been learning Spanish for yonks now but not the best at converting thoughts quickly into correct grammar etc so baulk at using it. I'm a lot better writing it down and if they don't speak 100 mph or kph I can get the gist. Did u have many opportunities to practise? On the cf last year the only practise was making an occasional phone booking for accommodation .

4 weeks from departure from Sydney
Becoming very real.

I can take any of your reminiscences
Keep them coming (please)
Annie

 

[mralisn]

Simeon
I'm glad you added a few of your averages day lengths after quoting it took you 34 days, so that any of us who are not as revved up as you; can read into (your 34 ) an extra 10 to 15(hope not) more days. In other words I won't be comparing my days to anyone else's as it will take what it will take. (Arriving fitter I hope than I start !)'. Still nice to know a baseline though. Ps you did walk to fin. and Muxia or bus that bit . I bussed that bit last year and have no regrets about that.

Hi Annie

The 34 days mentioned above was all walked from Irun-Oviedo (on the CP)-SdC-Muxia-Fisterra. The only transport used was after arriving in Fisterra going back to SdC.

A great approach to not compare days and to walk as you please. While there could have been a few days less walking, I enjoyed the company of my Camino family. It was nice to have that company each evening.

No doubt you will have a great journey.

Cheers,
Simeon

 

[Mary Kate]

Hi Simeon, Raj, and Michryan
So kind of you all to keep updates coming thru on the Norte/primitivo route. I read all the posts. I'm also in the band of merry pilgrims setting off in sept. (Irun 2/9/14).
Annie

Hi Annie
I'll be behind you, possibly going even more slowly so may not catch up. Arriving in Biarritz on 10 Sep and thinking of walking from there. I've been following the 2014 threads and you're the only other CN person I can recall.
Buen Camino!
Mary

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi Annie
I'll be behind you, possibly going even more slowly so may not catch up. Arriving in Biarritz on 10 Sep and thinking of walking from there. I've been following the 2014 threads and you're the only other CN person I can recall.
Buen Camino!
Mary

It's nice isn't it? Just to know another forum member is going same way. I have no doubts that we will meet others on our walking days. So many of the English speaking contingent aren't lucky enough to have caught onto this forum yet. So hoping to meet some more lovely people this year including many non English speaking.
I think on the forum I've noticed a few people post that they (may) be walking the Norte but not 100% decided. If you read the Norte threads you'll see both Dutch and Mountainman are likely to be walking in sept. I think. Some people don't post but are 'there' behind the veil!!! Hello.....

Mary
Re planning, I've only booked my accomm at entry in Barcelona for a couple of nights and train ticket to Irun.
I thought I'd wait until I arrived to Irun and see if I could get into the arlburgue there first; and if full, deal with it then. Not worried about that side of things. So looking forward to this walk though. To be as one with the world around me.

All the best for your walk and your planning Mary. Buen Camino
Annie

 

[Mary Kate]

Re planning, I've only booked my accomm at entry in Barcelona for a couple of nights and train ticket to Irun.
I thought I'd wait until I arrived to Irun and see if I could get into the arlburgue there first; and if full, deal with it then. Not worried about that side of things. So looking forward to this walk though. To be as one with the world around me.

All the best for your walk and your planning Mary. Buen Camino
Annie

Thanks, Annie. I may book accommodation for the night I arrive but haven't yet. I too am taking it as it comes unless I find albergues are full before I get there. I expect to hit Irun around 14th.
Exciting now, and scary. 40 days to go!
Mary

 

[Deleted member 12253]

I walked the Camino Frances in September and October 2013 alone and felt quite safe. I will walk again in 2015, but am considering the Norte. Just got an e-mail from another of the solo women I met last year, who has been talking with some pilgrims about the Norte. Their reports were that the Norte often required much longer walks hetween much less available albergues, and that there were parts of the Norte that should not be walked alone.

Does anyone have any feedback about that? I'm not a wimp or a worry-wart, but I'm not careless about my personal safety either. Can I hear from solo women who have walked the Norte?

The Norte not crowded but lots of pilgrims, you are seldom alone. I walked May 2014. Started in Bilbao to Ovido and primitivo to Santiago, walked 23 days, average 30 km a day, included a few short days 15-18 km and a few 40 km. bused to ferrol and walked ingles in 4 days. Met 5 or 6 lady's walking solo. No problems. I was lucky no rain except 1 or 2 light showers . Buen camino

 

[woodswoman]

Thank you. My impression is that the Camino - all of them - are a pretty safe place to be for a woman of any age travelling alone and I just wanted to clarify if there was some specific threat or danger that made the Norte different to the others. I am hoping to walk it without the very long stages and bivi-and-tarp it in between, and that is the only thing that worries me slightly. But I realise that has more to do with not being used to it than anything else. But of course, if there is something women should be alert to, I would rather know!

Okay, I'm the one who posed the question, and I have asked my Camino friend for clarification about what she heard, i.e. that there are parts one shouldn't walk alone. Here is what she said: "What they were talking about was that the Norte was more challenging and people must be in a good physical condition. More mountain climbing and descending than on the Frances, the distance between places to sleep, the marking of the way, the loneliness with not so many other pilgrims around. They had the impression that sometimes on the Norte you had to walk through desolate mountain sites and then it would be better not to be alone. "

So they apparently weren't talking about the dangers of being harmed . . . That clarifies it for me. Hope it does for you who have responded, as well.

 

[angulero]

Pregúntale a tu amigo si no estará hablando del Primitivo....

Ask your friend if he is not talking about the Primitivo....

 

[nidarosa]

@woodswoman : Thank you for getting in touch and finding out. All those points are valid points and I think most of those who consider the Norte are aware of those aspects of the walk - in fact I think it's why a lot of them want to walk it! - and I am glad you clarified so no one is scared off the Norte by non specific warnings. Seems I need to practice my bivying anyway!

 

[woodswoman]

@woodswoman : Thank you for getting in touch and finding out. All those points are valid points and I think most of those who consider the Norte are aware of those aspects of the walk - in fact I think it's why a lot of them want to walk it! - and I am glad you clarified so no one is scared off the Norte by non specific warnings. Seems I need to practice my bivying anyway!

I agree . . . I was aware of those aspects, and was then sort of thrown off course when my Camino friend wrote to me with the phrasing she used. I think she didn't realize how it sounded in the sentences as she originally used them.

 

[Jodipup]

Hi Mary and Annie. My husband and I will be leaving from Irun on 10 September walking CN and Primitivo. Hopefully we will meet up somewhere. We are very excited to be doing our first Camino. Buen Camino

 

[woodswoman]

Pregúntale a tu amigo si no estará hablando del Primitivo....

Ask your friend if he is not talking about the Primitivo....

My friend was talking to others as she arrived in Santiago last October . They were talking about the Norte, she said, and since I can't ask THEM, I'll assume she knew what she was telling me.

 

[dustylee]

I walked a section in 2011 (from San Sebastián to Santander) with a male friend who walked much faster than I did so I was mostly alone. I found many of the stages pretty challenging & would not have gone entirely alone: if I injured myself I did not think anyone might come along all day. I also should have carried more food as there is much less support than on the francés. However it was very beautiful. I just completed the Portugues & it had a great combination of beauty, solitude & plenty of cafés. Good luck.

 

[Mary Kate]

Hi Mary and Annie. My husband and I will be leaving from Irun on 10 September walking CN and Primitivo. Hopefully we will meet up somewhere. We are very excited to be doing our first Camino. Buen Camino

Hi Annie and Jodipup x 2, That would be great if we managed to be in the same place at the same time somewhere along The Way. Do you have Forum patches? (Not plugging them, just wondering. As I'm beginning to feel part of this forum community I'll be keeping a special eye out for anyone with a patch.)
Mary

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi Annie and Jodipup x 2, That would be great if we managed to be in the same place at the same time somewhere along The Way. Do you have Forum patches? (Not plugging them, just wondering. As I'm beginning to feel part of this forum community I'll be keeping a special eye out for anyone with a patch.)
Mary

Yes. Have forum badge. But it's been waiting to get hitched to my backpack for some time.
Come on Ozzie. Get it done.

Regarding meeting up on the way, you just never know what's around the corner. I'll look out for some road runners coming up fast behind me. I'm starting at Irun on 2nd. So soon .

Buen Camino
Annie

 

[Potilla]

Hi everyone,

wow, such a great forum - I just found it and had to join immediately. I already walked the Camino Frances twice and will walk the Norte this year starting on the 26th of August at Irun - so excited. Does anybody know if you can get wooden walking sticks in Irun? I still have mine from St. Jean, but I can't bring it due to airline regulations… does anybody know?

Buen Camino
Potilla

 

[shefollowsshells]

I have not read others responses but suspect they will say much the same.
I walked it "alone", though was not alone much and felt VERY safe.
I say go for it!

 

[Rajy62]

Okay, I'm the one who posed the question....
So they apparently weren't talking about the dangers of being harmed . . . That clarifies it for me. Hope it does for you who have responded, as well.

Actually, either you are a male or female, one thing i would be careful about are the dogs. Last year, I heard about dogs on the Frances but never encountered any problems. But in June this year, i had to swing my walking poles to scare the dogs away on few occasions. And one guy from Holland was bit by a dog and he was still bleeding when i bumped into him at a bar. He said the dog sneaked behind him and he would have killed that dog if he had anything in his hands. Dogs were also refusing to let some woman pass until the owners called the dogs in. So, be ware of dogs and make sure you have some walking sticks with you....This was on the primitivo.

 

[Dutch]

Yes, OzAnnie, i will surely be walking on sept 2nd. My initial plan is/was/is to walk the Frances again, but the Norte is pulling....i am in doubt, although i don't know what i am in doubt for. So i thought, i am gonna buy a guide for the Norte. Maybe it will "do" something with me.
Two days ago i received the guidbook "the northern caminos". I dont like the book. Its too heavy and i don't like the setup. Its just not clear. I think i like the "simplicity" of the brierley guides and maps better.

Anyways...the Norte...flight are booked for september first, but will i go from Biarritz to SJPP or Irun? I'm still undecided

 

[OzAnnie]

Yes, OzAnnie, i will surely be walking on sept 2nd. My initial plan is/was/is to walk the Frances again, but the Norte is pulling....i am in doubt, although i don't what i am in doubt for. So i thought, i am gonna buy a guide for the Norte. Maybe it will "do" something with me.
Two days ago i received the guidbook "the northern caminos". I dont like the book. Its too heavy and i don't like the setup. Its just not clear. I think i like the "simplicity" of the brierley guides and maps better.

Anyways...the Norte...flight are booked for september first, but will i go from Biarritz to SJPP or Irun? I'm still undesided

Hi Dutch
How timely, just about to go out for a walk, and 'had' to check the forum first! Who's addicted.

Regarding the guide ! Ditto to you, I ordered one on Amazon. Won't arrive until after I've left home; so tried Sydney bookstore 'abbeys'., who ordered it in and took 2 weeks. I picked it up yesterday. I was commenting that I like to see the maps like Brierley does them; includes the incline charts showing what you re in for regarding hills so that you can plan your stops (from a quick glance) . I don't intend to take this guide with me but will read it up and maybe scan some of it and store on my iPhone.

I have gleaned a lot through the forum for info and read blogs and will walk with the info I have.
Ebrandt has posted a great PDF file for the primitivo section. That will be on my iPhone.


Loads of stuff on internet , Gronze I think, has the charts etc for the inclines with lots of other info about each stage. Great info but too much to print and carry.

I know where you are (head wise) though. Enjoyed the Frances a lot, and will walk it again for sure down the track.,
But these other routes will be wonderful too. I haven't heard a negative word about the Norte primitivo, There will still be other peregrinos about. Just not as packed (that's how I'm thinking). I like the thought of having people to chats to now and then and hopefully be part of a group occasionally, but I know I'll have to take what comes.

Currently have been hampered with prep by a flare up of pain and numbness in my right hand. Carpal tunnel so need to rest that and praying it will abate before I go or if not that the Spanish weather will be better for it. (Cold here at the moment).
Just concerned as I won't be able to use my rh walking pole.


Where you start will come to you Dutch., the two starting points are not TOO far from each other., so maybe it will be a last minute decision. Good luck. I hope you decide on the Norte though.

Annie
Annie

 

[Rajy62]

Two days ago i received the guidbook "the northern caminos". I dont like the book. Its too heavy and i don't like the setup. Its just not clear. I think i like the "simplicity" of the brierley guides and maps better

I also prefer the Brierley's format. But, this guide was my primary source for the Norte/Primitivo last month. This one is thicker because they decided to use a shorter length. Other than an awkward way of presenting the maps across the pages and missing "elevation profiles" of the stages, the guide is very precise, brief and current on accommodation. Several fellow peregrinos would ask me for recommendation for accommodation from this guide. One can get used to it. They also offer this guide in e-reader form if you use a smartphone. I loaded the English version of the "Northern ways to Santiago" published by the Spanish government into my smartphone to supplement for elevation profiles. One can also get better maps/elevation profiles from Gronze or Eroski sites. Either route you decide, Buen camino.

 

[Mary Kate]

Yes, OzAnnie, i will surely be walking on sept 2nd. My initial plan is/was/is to walk the Frances again, but the Norte is pulling....i am in doubt, although i don't what i am in doubt for. So i thought, i am gonna buy a guide for the Norte. Maybe it will "do" something with me.
Two days ago i received the guidbook "the northern caminos". I dont like the book. Its too heavy and i don't like the setup. Its just not clear. I think i like the "simplicity" of the brierley guides and maps better.

Anyways...the Norte...flight are booked for september first, but will i go from Biarritz to SJPP or Irun? I'm still undesided

Hi Dutch
I hope you have a great Camino whichever route you take. Even though this is my first camino and all logic says CF I feel that it must be the Norte for some reason so that is my plan at the moment. I may yet change my mind when I get there as I too arrive in Biarritz, but on 10 Sep. Buen Camino. Mary

 

[Dutch]

Hey guys,

I have a feeling, knowing myself, it will be a very last minute decision, and thats ok. Maybe thats even better. I like being able to make those kind of last minute moves. Thats one of the reasons why i dont plan a flight date back. It gives you some (maybe false) form of freedom.
I also at some point have to make a choice (if starting Irun) to keep on walking the Norte or take the primitivo. I have no idea. I get the feelimg lots of peopel go for the primitivo. Why would that be? Is the Norte less attractive after the Primitivo choosing point (oviedo)?

I guess 2 things are giving me doubt about the Norte. The number of pilgrims and the weather. I am a nice weather hiker. I dont mind a rainy day now and then, inbetween the sunny days, but it shouldnt be the other way around.
When i sometimes read posts from other people saying that they walked in rain for weeks, all i can think is...urghh

As for the number of pilgrims, that probably is based on nothing. I had the same feeling about the portugees camino before i walked that, but i met lots of great people on that camino. Compared to that, i met fewer people walking to finisterre then on the portugees, even though that is strange, taking in account the numer of people just here saying they will also walk to finisterre.
So the numbers thing is probably nothing. I guess everything stands out when you've walked the frances in one of the busy months. Maybe the lesson is to just stop comparing.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I also at some point have to make a choice (if starting Irun) to keep on walking the Norte or take the primitivo. I have no idea. I get the feelimg lots of peopel go for the primitivo. Why would that be? Is the Norte less attractive after the Primitivo choosing point (oviedo)?

As for the number of pilgrims, that probably is based on nothing.

In 2013, twice as many walked the Camino del Norte as the Camino Primitivo. The number of pilgrims on the Camino Portugues was over four times that of the Primitivo.

4,156 Pilgrims started in Oviedo, but there is no breakdown of the route they chose.

 

[Dutch]

Thnx Falcon, did not know that. I guess i "hear" alot of people here saying they walk the Norte and then Primitivo, but apparently more keep walking on the Norte then making the turn to Primitivo.

4 times more on the portugees? Hmm...i should really read statistics

I am not going to make choises purely based on numbers. I like the walking alone part very much, but when the walking's done (and at cafe con leche stops in between) i enjoy the company of other pilgrims very much. Don't want to do a very solitary camino.

 

[ave]

I did Norte this August..alone. Truth is you never be alone-always meet somebody, meet new friends etc. Walked 25-40 km per day and loved it! No worries

 

[angulero]

Es raro el día que no pase una mujer caminando sola.

Rare is the day that does not pass a woman walking alone.

 

[cornishtim]

I walked the Norte two years ago now. I met at least three solo women - two had walked all the way from Geneva on their own and one of these was going to walk back again along the Frances. Another was in her late sixties and had walked six or seven of the routes on her own. They all said that they felt perfectly safe by the sensible precautions we might all take ( I was walking alone as a 61 year old male.)
As for places to stop - I found that there were generally well spaced places and where there were not I looked for guest houses which were often quite inexpensive ( 10-15 euros ) and allowed some comforts and privacy when needed. I also 'found' a lovely Camino family that I could walk with/enjoy meals with etc along the way. We all met up in Santiago to celebrate and I am still in touch with most of them.
Enjoy. It is the loveliest of walks!

 

[madijones]

Hi Annie
I'll be behind you, possibly going even more slowly so may not catch up. Arriving in Biarritz on 10 Sep and thinking of walking from there. I've been following the 2014 threads and you're the only other CN person I can recall.
Buen Camino!
Mary

Hi Mary,
I am about to start the CN from Biarritz also - how did your camino go??
Happy for any advice you may have; I have all the gear I think but just wondering if you can recommend a guidebook/whether you would recommend ringing albergues ahead/any places you had any issues.
I also haven't been able to find where to get my Camino Passport from other than online (which I am too late for haha), is it possible to get along the way?
I would appreciate any advice and to hear how your walk went!
Cheers,
Madi

 

[Kanga]

My huband and I are planning to walk the Norte and Primitivo starting in Irun about 8 May. Taking a tent for the first time so that's a bit of a change.

 

[Mary Kate]

Hi Mary,
I am about to start the CN from Biarritz also - how did your camino go??
Happy for any advice you may have; I have all the gear I think but just wondering if you can recommend a guidebook/whether you would recommend ringing albergues ahead/any places you had any issues.
I also haven't been able to find where to get my Camino Passport from other than online (which I am too late for haha), is it possible to get along the way?
I would appreciate any advice and to hear how your walk went!
Cheers,
Madi

The guide book I used is The Northern Caminos by Laura Perazzoli and Dave Whitsun. It was the only English one I could find. There's a kindle version if you have the technology with you. But I wanted a hard copy to pull out at need. It has mostly good advice about what's available in the smaller towns/villages but some places had closed even in Oct.
With regard to gear the way the weather looks right now you'll definitely need waterproof boots and a poncho. I had mostly a fair-weather Camino but when it rained heavily it got between my waterproof jacket and the back of the pack so even the waterproof cover wasn't enough.
Make sure your stuff is quickdry. When I went the humidity often meant stuff didn't dry very well and if it's wet weather you might have problems. Having said that albergues (the private ones anyway) should have heating on by now so it may work out better. Many places have washer/dryers but it is usually Eur 6 - 8 to use them and it's expensive for a few items.
I'm not 100% sure but I think you can get a passport in the cathedral at Bayonne and any major town's cathedral or albergue. Biarritz airport is really between Biarritz and Bayonne so it's close. Someone else may have more information. If you only want it from Irun onwards you can get one in the church if I remember correctly and in the albergue.
My first night I stayed in the Youth Hostel (Auberge de Jeunesse) in Negresse, the next stage in a hotel in St Jean de Luz and in the albergue in Irun.
I never booked ahead and never had problems, but that was Sept when things were slowing down. Some albergues have closed since the beginning of November. I think the municipal ones may all be open and there should be no problems with numbers.
I had a wonderful Camino. I changed to the Primitivo when that choice loomed largely because I realised my feet didn't like too much pavement and though there were long stages (long for me) I was better able to cope. I took things slowly. It took me 50 days from Irun to Santiago, walking half stages mostly rather than taking days off.
Any more questions please feel free to ask.
Mary

 

[aerdna]

Hi!
I walked Norte/Primitivo 'solo' this October/November. However, I was only one night truly alone in a place and that was because I walked a bit further than the others that day to end in a town with a church so I could attend Mass. Otherwise, there was always someone else in the albergue/pension and usually a few pilgrims on the way. I was 'the slow kid' as I called myself (it was definitely physically challenging, especially the uphills!!), so I was usually passed by people and then would see them later. It was quite a nice rhythm, especially on the Primitivo, as we would all end up together for the evenings.

I walked 34 days Irun to Santiago. Some days were absurdly long (for various reasons running from my stubbornness to my planned stop being closed for bedbug disinfestation) and then I made up for it with short days. I averaged 16 miles if you just divide days/miles. Longest day was close to 40kms, shortest day was probably only about 16kms. I chose shorter days over rest days because I had the need to just keep moving, even if only a little bit. I also chose the Primitivo over continuing the Norte because I was ready for a change of scenery (though I did love the ocean) and I wasn't looking forward to what the guidebook described as town after town and lots of pavement.

Some of the distances were also due to the time of year I walked, which was after the municipal albergues had closed for the season in Basque country. So, for the first 5 days or so we found hostels and pensions. But many of the hospitaleros were more than happy to offer advice on the next place to stay, especially if one didn't want to walk too far.

I often walked at least part of the day with someone else and did have plenty of alone time as well. The most pilgrims in an albergue on the Norte was in Castro-Urdiales. That albergue would have been full had a group of 4 decided to split up, but there were only 2 beds left, so they walked a few kms further. I think that albergue could sleep about 18-20, but I can't quite picture all the beds in my head any more.

Never worried for food because I would look in the guidebook and stock up if necessary. I prefer markets/grocery stores to restaurants, so I did need to plan a little bit. Never needed more than 2 days of food, and that was quite rare.

I did sprain an ankle heading downhill one day, but that was on the Primitivo. It wasn't a bad sprain, and it happened because I had just switched my poles into one hand and was unable to catch myself. I sat for a minute and then continued. It was, of course, on the one day that was really spread out.

I was never afraid on the Camino, though there were a few odd moments. I also never got really lost. Thought I was, but then an arrow would appear, or my puzzled look would catch the eye of a local who would kindly show me the way.

Overall, loved it, felt safe, could have been in better shape, no regrets!

I did blog about it (andreaonthecamino.wordpress.com) and plan to add more posts about specific aspects of the experience in the near future.

 

[Deleted member 12253]

Norte/ primitivo as safe as any camino. It's not any harder than francis, on my 25 days from irun to santiago a solid group of 25 , made up of French , German , Spanish, Portugues , Russian and lone irish man. So you can see little chance to chat in English. I averaged 29 km a day , some short days and 3 or 4 days 40 km. The standard of accomadation very good. Bused to ferrol on day of arrival in santiago and walked ingles Camino in 4 days. I am a pensioner .

 

[camino07]

For me the Norte was much, much harder than the Francis or any of the other Caminos I have walked in my 7 years of travelling to Spain.
Too much walking on asphalt killed my feet . Not my favourite Camino but that's just my opinion!

 

[mel0525]

Starting in Bilbao on May 8th as a solo woman.
It's reassuring too read all your comments. If you have any other suggestions or advice for solo women it's really appreciated!
Have a great day

 

[mspath]

Starting in Bilbao on May 8th as a solo woman.
It's reassuring too read all your comments. If you have any other suggestions or advice for solo women it's really appreciated!
Have a great day

Hi there !

Be sure to scan all this thread re women walking alone on the Norte!!

Although I have never walked that route I have followed the CF 10 times as well as hiking in Egypt and Japan basically alone. Wherever one is discretion and no bling are good protection. My kit consists of medium priced good quality equipment but nothing fancy, ie nothing that anyone would want to take; no fanny pack nor camera bag. Do be wary but not paranoid.

However, never leave unwatched what you can't afford to lose. Like many pilgrims I sleep with any valuables within my sleeping bag beneath my feet and NEVER tell anyone where and what they are!!

For further advice read these Forum threads with useful tips on camino security
and here.

Buen camino,

MM

 

[woodswoman]

I'm going on the Norte in late August, and I had asked the "Solo women on the Camino Norte" question last year, I think. But if you also go to the American Pilgrims on the Camino site, pull down the Files menu and scroll down (quite a way down) to "nortestages.pdf". Click on that and print it out. A GREAT resource with several excellent pieces of information for each town. I printed it two-sided, so I will only have to carry two pages. Wish I could convert a pdf to my iPhone somewhere, but tucking it in my very lightweight journal will work just fine.

 

[K Malpica]

I walked the Camino Frances in September and October 2013 alone and felt quite safe. I will walk again in 2015, but am considering the Norte. Just got an e-mail from another of the solo women I met last year, who has been talking with some pilgrims about the Norte. Their reports were that the Norte often required much longer walks hetween much less available albergues, and that there were parts of the Norte that should not be walked alone.

Does anyone have any feedback about that? I'm not a wimp or a worry-wart, but I'm not careless about my personal safety either. Can I hear from solo women who have walked the Norte?

I walked the Norte and Primitivo solo last summer, and nothing but fantastic experiences! I was also concerned at first, as I had no phone and wasnt' sure how remote it was. I had no problems. I did also hook up with pilgrims en route who I walked with. I would recommend checking each stage carefully for directions, especially in first week, as there are alternates. There are a few places where arrows had been blacked out during first stages, I believe because of some local controversy. I would also recommend the coastal route GR into Pasajes, which is spectacular, but long and challenging. bring snacks and lots of water from Irun to Bilbao. There is a Geopark with amazing rock stratigraphy called Flysch, the longest in world, and amazing cave art! Don't miss Guemes albergue, the true spirit of communitas on the Camino. Ultreia and Buen CAmino!

 

[woodswoman]

Thank you K Malpica. I've been getting a few more great resources about the Norte, as well as one I created myself from the Spanish Norte book, using just the elevation diagrams in each "Stage" section. But the one I got yesterday, which had better walking maps and the elevations, though not lists of albergues, came from this link: http://tourism.euskadi.eus/.../Caminos del Norte… If you are interested, anyone, you might try it. It doesn't show up as a web-link but as a PDF in whatever form your computer uses. I am a Mac user, and it came to my "Preview" application. Really helpful for what I personally was looking for in a map/book.

I will also say that personally, I wouldn't recommend getting the little pamphlet map from the Confraternity of St. James. I bought it, 4 British pounds plus shipping, which was fine as a cost, until I received it. A few pages of copied paper, with a cover, and nothing much that was useful at all. I offered it to anyone on the American Pilgrim's Face book page, and someone asked for it. So I'll pass it on, but I was really disappointed in the no-value information. This link above has some usable info, lots of it. Thanks all, for the info.

 

[K Malpica]

I used the guide published by Cicerone, Laura Perazzoli and Dave Whitson "The Northern Caminos, Norte, Primitivo and Ingles" It worked great. I also saw the one from the tourism office you mentioned, which was good too and free! Good luck and Buen camino!

Thank you K Malpica. I've been getting a few more great resources about the Norte, as well as one I created myself from the Spanish Norte book, using just the elevation diagrams in each "Stage" section. But the one I got yesterday, which had better walking maps and the elevations, though not lists of albergues, came from this link: http://tourism.euskadi.eus/.../Caminos del Norte… If you are interested, anyone, you might try it. It doesn't show up as a web-link but as a PDF in whatever form your computer uses. I am a Mac user, and it came to my "Preview" application. Really helpful for what I personally was looking for in a map/book.

I will also say that personally, I wouldn't recommend getting the little pamphlet map from the Confraternity of St. James. I bought it, 4 British pounds plus shipping, which was fine as a cost, until I received it. A few pages of copied paper, with a cover, and nothing much that was useful at all. I offered it to anyone on the American Pilgrim's Face book page, and someone asked for it. So I'll pass it on, but I was really disappointed in the no-value information. This link above has some usable info, lots of it. Thanks all, for the info.

 

[angelafinnigan]

I walked the Camino Frances in September and October 2013 alone and felt quite safe. I will walk again in 2015, but am considering the Norte. Just got an e-mail from another of the solo women I met last year, who has been talking with some pilgrims about the Norte. Their reports were that the Norte often required much longer walks hetween much less available albergues, and that there were parts of the Norte that should not be walked alone.

Does anyone have any feedback about that? I'm not a wimp or a worry-wart, but I'm not careless about my personal safety either. Can I hear from solo women who have walked the Norte?

I've just walked from Santander to Ribedesella alone and felt 100% safe. There's enough pilgrims around in the evening to set off with next day if you're worried. It's a wonderful Camino. I'm coming back to do the Irun to Santander and finish via the Primitivo n another month. It's so beautiful.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

This Camino does not see a 10th of the pilgrims on CF, but it does have it fair share of villages, towns and major cities, so "soloing" is not an issue, in my opinion. Plus, as there are fewer albergues (although many more than 7 years ago when I wanted to first walk it) you will most likely spend evening after evening with the same lot and they will wonder why you have not caught up with them.

To tell you the truth, safety only crossed my mind a morning, in the middle of darkess (all the other s @#!!! had gotten up!) on the CF when I followed the arrows down and up a ditch to basically keep me off the road for 20meters I assume, while possibly sending me in the hands whomever. I was off sight, in the middle of pure darkness.

I have not seen a comparible spot on CN, at least the bit I walked but would still be careful, as you would be anywhere.

To tell you the truth, the spray painted arrows are becoming unsettling to me: out of Deba a local land owner tempers with the arrows, but just a couple of days ago a Forum member mentioned how he got a yellow marker to "reset the route". And now we have a missing woman in CF, perhaps as she followed an alternate road.

I more often than not walk alone, but never away from the masses - not on purpose, but it has just happened, except when stupid in that early am.

 

[woodswoman]

I used the guide published by Cicerone, Laura Perazzoli and Dave Whitson "The Northern Caminos, Norte, Primitivo and Ingles" It worked great. I also saw the one from the tourism office you mentioned, which was good too and free! Good luck and Buen camino!

I have that guide, and the narrative is fine, but the map looks like a section of road atlas which is NOT what I want, and there are no elevation diagrams. Give me a BRIERLEY book for the Norte (though he hasn't written one). I've pieced together some things that will help me . . . and the Cicerone book is lovely, with expensive pages, thus it is quite heavy in the pack. I will work it all out. Thanks for the information and the feedback about all of your experiences.

I'll watch for those "extra arrows" though I'm not sure how I will know them from the "real" ones. BE careful . . . that's the key. And I've just learned that my friend Ria, a German woman I met on the Frances, will start the Norte a day after I do. She is faster than I am, so I'm sure we will meet up. We are planning on it.

 

[Mailo]

I would highly recommend the Norte- go for it ! Walked the Norte/ primitivo in May/June 2014 and loved it so much especially the first part in the basque country! Distances are fine and I felt very safe generally. Only once- in Portugalete- I staid in a hostel as the albergue was still closed. It was rainy, grey and cold since a few days and I had pain in my leg since more than a week despite the rest days I took and also got the impression the hostal was used as a brothel or something like that (later heard about the same experiences from another pilgrim there). I didnt felt quite uncomfortable and lost there- really wondering why I was doing this again? yet- the next day a miracle happened- the weather was beautiful, the pain had vanished and I met some very nice people all along the next stage and finished the day overlooking the sea in Castro Urdiales with wine and great sea food and with some of my new camino friends who really made me laugh as they were very funny. So after rain comes the sunshine ! buen camino and really hope you will enjoy every bit of it!

 

[Sue Kranz]

I am going solo in mid-May....switching my first plan to walk CF...but this is the most popular season and I'm going primarily for the social aspect. I love to hike and am very fit, so the physical aspect seems better...

I am thinking of starting in SFDPP until Pamplona and then taking the bus up to San Sebastian and continuing on the Northern route to Santiago.

Is the Norte wetter than Frances in mid-May/June?

Has anyone done this? What is the route like these days, as compared with the last entries back in '14 and '15.

This feels right to me. So excited!

Gracias!
Sue

 

[peregrina2000]

I am going solo in mid-May....switching my first plan to walk CF...but this is the most popular season and I'm going primarily for the social aspect. I love to hike and am very fit, so the physical aspect seems better...

I am thinking of starting in SFDPP until Pamplona and then taking the bus up to San Sebastian and continuing on the Northern route to Santiago.

Is the Norte wetter than Frances in mid-May/June?

Has anyone done this? What is the route like these days, as compared with the last entries back in '14 and '15.

This feels right to me. So excited!

Gracias!
Sue

That sounds like what I'm going to do this year, except that I'll be starting in Bayonne and walking 5 days on the Camino de Baztan to Pamplona. From there I'm going to take the bus/train to Irun and walk the Norte. If you take the bus to San Sebastian, you'll miss the first lovely high altitude day between Irun and San Sebastian. If you have the time, I'd start the Norte in Irun.

As far as weather goes, I think the Norte is generally wetter than the Frances, but the weather is totally unpredictable these days as you know.

If you scroll through the Norte sub-forum, you'll see lots of recent comments. The Norte can be very crowded, too!

 

[Sue Kranz]

Muchas gracias! My goal is also to speak limited English...

Sue