Kevin Considine
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2021
Albergue Leo in Villafranca del Bierzo. TIPPERARY TO SANTIAGO Day 95:
Walked in the dark from beautiful town of Molinaseca on the Meruelo River passing the restored Templar Castle in Ponferrada just before dawn. Late in the afternoon I walk into the lovely village of Villafranca del Bierzo I walk directly to Albergue Leo. I remembered staying there in 2016 with Swedish friends; Per and Lotta Brask, and enjoying it. It is beautifully restored several hundred year old building with wood beams across the ceiling and stone walls and art work that enhances ones comfort.
A pretty, thin young woman, Maria, greeted me, and made me feel most welcome with her warm friendly smile as she explained they had no lower bunks but if I gave her a few minutes she would find a solution. She introduced me to her mother, red haired Irish looking Mercedes who sat me down and offered a cold drink. Mercedes came back a few minutes later and took me up to the attic where there was a single bed, with both a bed and cover sheet. Luxury on the Camino. Maria offered to wash my clothes in the machine but I had so little I washed them by hand in the sink.
For an hour or so I chatted with these two lovely hospitaleros and then Maria mentioned she had an email reply to an Irishman she was struggling a bit with and could I help. More than happy to repay their kindness I looked over her shoulder and suggested a few things. She was still struggling putting her thoughts into English so I suggested that she should just tell me how she feels and I would write a draft. That worked. Maria then continued on helping pilgrims with various tasks while I talked with Mercedes about her life in Villafranca. She suggested I should go for an early dinner and then attend a free concert at San Nicolas Church(17th Century).. Pedro Halffter, of Villafranca, a world renowned composer was giving a free piano concert. I walked into the packed church at 7:58 looking like the grubby pilgrim that I am and walked directly to the first pew spotting an opening on the very end and sat just as the concert. Beautiful music in a majestic venue.
Back at the Albergue, Maria and Mercedes invited me to stay the following day for a family and friend afternoon dinner. The Camino has taught me to accept any and all gifts so I readily accept though it will put me behind schedule. In the morning, I awake at 7:45, almost 3 hours later than normal. The other pilgrims are gone but Mercedes is there and makes me a breakfast of toast but surprisingly brings out a box of Barry’s Irish Tea so I enjoy 2 small pots with milk and honey while listening to Mercedes. She can talk with the best as it seems as if I am back in Ireland at a B&B. Maria returns around noon and tells me she got a reply from her Irish friend and asks for help once more.
Mercedes’ dinner is a delicious homemade 3 inch thick meat and veggie empanada and a salad with juicy red ripe tomatoes, lettuce, and onion from their garden. How nice for this pilgrim to experience a family meal. Maria and Mercedes sit by me and kindly translate and keep my plate and wine glass full.
Well it is getting late so we say goodbye. Mercedes will not accept my money for breakfast and drinks and Maria walks me down to the corner where I turn for the bridge. She gives me a big hug. I walk on crossing the bridge and taking the road to the right which will turn into the path going over the mountain to Trabadelo. It turns into a beautiful ridge walk and alone and very happy I whistle knowing I have another “second home” to return to some day.
Walked in the dark from beautiful town of Molinaseca on the Meruelo River passing the restored Templar Castle in Ponferrada just before dawn. Late in the afternoon I walk into the lovely village of Villafranca del Bierzo I walk directly to Albergue Leo. I remembered staying there in 2016 with Swedish friends; Per and Lotta Brask, and enjoying it. It is beautifully restored several hundred year old building with wood beams across the ceiling and stone walls and art work that enhances ones comfort.
A pretty, thin young woman, Maria, greeted me, and made me feel most welcome with her warm friendly smile as she explained they had no lower bunks but if I gave her a few minutes she would find a solution. She introduced me to her mother, red haired Irish looking Mercedes who sat me down and offered a cold drink. Mercedes came back a few minutes later and took me up to the attic where there was a single bed, with both a bed and cover sheet. Luxury on the Camino. Maria offered to wash my clothes in the machine but I had so little I washed them by hand in the sink.
For an hour or so I chatted with these two lovely hospitaleros and then Maria mentioned she had an email reply to an Irishman she was struggling a bit with and could I help. More than happy to repay their kindness I looked over her shoulder and suggested a few things. She was still struggling putting her thoughts into English so I suggested that she should just tell me how she feels and I would write a draft. That worked. Maria then continued on helping pilgrims with various tasks while I talked with Mercedes about her life in Villafranca. She suggested I should go for an early dinner and then attend a free concert at San Nicolas Church(17th Century).. Pedro Halffter, of Villafranca, a world renowned composer was giving a free piano concert. I walked into the packed church at 7:58 looking like the grubby pilgrim that I am and walked directly to the first pew spotting an opening on the very end and sat just as the concert. Beautiful music in a majestic venue.
Back at the Albergue, Maria and Mercedes invited me to stay the following day for a family and friend afternoon dinner. The Camino has taught me to accept any and all gifts so I readily accept though it will put me behind schedule. In the morning, I awake at 7:45, almost 3 hours later than normal. The other pilgrims are gone but Mercedes is there and makes me a breakfast of toast but surprisingly brings out a box of Barry’s Irish Tea so I enjoy 2 small pots with milk and honey while listening to Mercedes. She can talk with the best as it seems as if I am back in Ireland at a B&B. Maria returns around noon and tells me she got a reply from her Irish friend and asks for help once more.
Mercedes’ dinner is a delicious homemade 3 inch thick meat and veggie empanada and a salad with juicy red ripe tomatoes, lettuce, and onion from their garden. How nice for this pilgrim to experience a family meal. Maria and Mercedes sit by me and kindly translate and keep my plate and wine glass full.
Well it is getting late so we say goodbye. Mercedes will not accept my money for breakfast and drinks and Maria walks me down to the corner where I turn for the bridge. She gives me a big hug. I walk on crossing the bridge and taking the road to the right which will turn into the path going over the mountain to Trabadelo. It turns into a beautiful ridge walk and alone and very happy I whistle knowing I have another “second home” to return to some day.
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