gollygolly
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- Time of past OR future Camino
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Walking the Camino de San Salvador had long been a personal desire, and to especially walk it during Easter week (Semana Santa). The following is a personal account of walking this Camino with my 10 year old daughter during Easter 2016, when the weather was quite uncertain following significant snow falls at the higher levels.
There is a great deal of factual information available on the Camino de San Salvador, and a great deal of detailed planning can be made before commencing, though the great unknown is what the weather will be - or as in the case of this Camino, what has just been, which had been a lot of snow. We were very blessed, with very benign weather during the walk at the higher levels, with little wind and no snow or rain.
So to what unfolded :
Day 1: arrival in León, via a flight to Asturias Airport and the town of Oviedo. We had a few hours stop-over in Oviedo, a place which we already knew from previously walking the Camino Primitivo, as the Cathedral is the commencing point for the Camino Primitivo. Strangely, this Cathedral is also the culmination for the Camino de San Salvador, and it felt extraordinary to be making our way to and seeing the Cathedral, our intended destination within the next week. Oviedo is one of Spain's special places, and it was lovely to see the Cathedral once again. We returned to the bus station to take the coach to León, and by late afternoon were at Hotel Real Colegiata San Isidoro. What a special place this ecclesiastical complex is - highly recommended. A total honour and privilege to be staying in such a building and environment. In the later afternoon, we went to visit the Associasion de Amigos del Camino de Santago de León (Avenida Independencia Nº 2, 5º Izq), to collect our Credencial for the Camino de San Salvador and to talk about the current weather conditions on the Camino San Salvador.
Day 2: León
Today was goodbye to the Real Colegiata and time to commence life as Peregrinos. We vacated the comfort and splendour of our room at the Real Colegiata and passing the Cathedral, we collected the first sellos within the Credencials, before going to the Albergue de Peregrinos de las Benedictinas - Santa Mariá de Carbajal. The first Albergue for this Camino.
Day 3: León - La Robla
started walking at 7:46am arrival 4:40pm
Recorded distance 27.97kms / 44756 steps walked / 34 floors climbed
After ensuring that a photograph of us had been taken for posting on the Camino de San Salavdor web-page as a just-in-case measure, we finally set out in the rain from the Albergue, and I stopped briefly at the Basilica of San Isidoro de Leon at the Colegiata as we passed it, and had the bonus of a personal blessing from the Canónigo before re-commencing the Camino. It was a very slow exit from León, even though the route was very well marked. At the first opportunity for coffee, the only bar that we found open on this Easter Sunday, we stopped in Carbajal de la Legua (Bar Central). So far the walking had all been on road, but not long after leaving Carbjal de la Legua the Camino left the tarmac road behind and our walk commenced and continued on a dirt track. Mostly easy walking, the rain having stopped, with the occasional need to skirt the larger areas of mud. As mid-day approached there was a need to ascend, and finally some effort was required. In the early afternoon we stopped in Huergas de Gordon (Restaurante Buen Suceso - though this was really a bar) and had some quite good tapas to eat as well torrijas, which are a delicious speciality during Easter in León.
By the time we arrived at the Albergue in La Robla the rain had returned and the light was going, which did not help show the very grey town in anything other then a miserable light. At the Albergue we were to meet with Jose Antonio Cuñarro, 'Sr. San Salvador', and responsible for the Facebook page on this Camino. A wonderful man, he had walked part of the snow covered Camino this same day, and explained all that we would need to know for the walk ahead over the next few days. He also showed us images of where he had also spray painted in yellow on the snow, where there was potential for some doubts on the route, and he sent us the images. I also telephoned ahead, so as to ensure that at our planned destination they knew we were coming, and asked if food could be prepared for us for the following day at Poasado El Embrujo (Lucia - 659 013 282) in Poladura de la Tercia.
Day 4: La Robla - Poladura de la Tercia
started walking at 7:24am arrival 4:04pm
Recorded distance 27.27kms / 45029 steps walked / 106 floors climbed
After the rain of the day before, today was fresh and bright. After a little over 8kms we stopped in Pola de Gordón for the morning breakfast. By now we were at just a couple of meters over 1000m, and clearly seeing the snow that lay in the hills and mountains ahead, and by mid-day began to walk into the snow line. The going was at first fun and easy, but as we climbed higher (Ermita at 1080m, Buiza at 1120m and then finally a strong ascent to Forcades de San Antón which is 1462m) the snow got deeper and deeper and the going got tougher and tougher. A poor decision of mine was to continue walking without stopping to put on the walking gaiters, which lay deep in my back-pack. The final few kilometres to Poladura de la Tercia was particularly hard going, with very deep snow. After many falls and spills, we finally made it to very spartan and cold Albergue in Poladura de la Tercia. One small electric fan heater existed to heat the large room and try and dry all of our wet clothes and sodden footwear. The meal that had been arranged the day before was nothing short of a feast, and in great quantities. We arranged for a guide, Santy Gar, as well as renting snow shoes (raquetas) for the following days walking. Also once again called ahead and arranged so that there would be food for the following evening for when we were in the Albergue in Pajares (Marisa - 645 930 092).
Day 5: Poladura de la Tercia - Pajares
started walking at 8:42am arrival 4:44pm
Recorded distance 16.52kms / 25342 steps walked / 88 floors climbed
By the time that we had each got ourselves organised with the snow shoes, it was quite late before we set out. Still, the distance planned for the day was not that great, so it would not be a long day. Would it ? Whatever the experience of the day before, it had been a mere practice for today's walk. We made it to the Cruz de San Salvador (Alto de los Romeros - 1452m) at a little before 10:40am. About 2 hours to walk nearly 3kms, this was a particularly challenging 'walk', though we were so fortunate to have very, very little wind and no rain or snow falling. After this point the walk continued up, to the highest point of this Camino, Canto la Tusa at 1572m. Still, it continued at more or less the same altitude, with more snow and walking through cloud as well as fog. Reached another summit, Vista Arbas at 1560m - though with the poor visibility no vistas at all, and then the descent began. Arroya los Caballetas at 1370m was where a little dampness was felt on the face - please do not rain or snow !! Please !! And it passed, with only the mist and fog remaining. The descent was not as tiring as the ascent, but easy it was not. We emerged on to the snow-plough cleared N630 at the Colegiata de Santa María de Arbás, at Arbás de Puerto. It was only from here that we finally left the snow behind, as well as saying goodbye to Santy and the snow shoes, with which we never made friends. We continued our descent to the Albergue at Pajares walking on the N630, stopping for a delicious hot fish broth at the roadside bar Meson El Ruchu. Recommended. Slightly fortified, we continued to the Albergue at Pajares, to complete what had been a hard, if not that very long in distance walk. The Albergue at Pajares had central heating and was warm, and the warmth of the welcome from the hospitaleria, Marisa, will never be forgotten. Another feast of a supper, prepared by Marisa, served along with plenty of wine, allowed for a good nights sleep.
Day 6 : Pajares - Pola de Lena
started walking at 8:09am arrival 4:04pm
Recorded distance 25.84kms / 39896 steps walked / 122 floors climbed
A slowish start to the day, as we left Pajares and very quickly left the N630, we descended through a beautiful valley, stopping to see the new born lambs in the fields as well as along the path. At these lower levels there was no snow on the path, though it was quite wet, with frequent rivulets and streams cascading down from the snow thawing at higher levels, requiring prudent fording of the water and frequently the need to navigate mud on the path. We stopped for an enormous menu lunch at Campomanes, leaving the restaurant with the stomach totally filled with Asturian fabada. A few kilometres further, and we were very fortunate to find the pre-Romanic church of Santa Cristima de Lena open, which was well worth the very brief diversion (open 11.00 - 13.00 and 16.00-18.00, though closed on Mondays). From the Church it was a few more kilometres to arrive at the Albergue in Pola de Lena, and another very warm and friendly welcome from the hospitalero. In the evening we went to the Taberna FilanGuïra - close by and recommended.
Day 7 : Pola de Lena - Oviedo
started walking at 7:19am arrival 5.44pm
Recorded distance 35.02kms / 53046 steps walked / 66 floors climbedEarly departure from the Albergue, and good progress through Pola de Lena, before hesitating as to whether we were heading in the right direction. We back-tracked to ask - and met local folk who were also uncertain or did not know. We finally decided to proceed in the direction that we had originally been going and at last spotted the familiar yellow Camino arrow. Up to now, snow excepted, the Camino had generally been well indicated, but this was a stretch which was briefly sparse with few yellow arrows or 'conchas', at least few that we could see. We stopped for a far too weak coffee in the town of Ujo, before continuing for a far better breakfast in Mieres. The original plan had been to stay at the Albergue in Mieres, but we pressed on from Mieres to the final destination. After the snow on the higher sections of the Camino, now that we were at much lower altitudes - Mieres is at 215m - and with our clothing suitable for extrene cold, the high temperatures of today were being really felt. There were a few strong climbs during the later part of the day, and these were really tiring before the final gentle descent to the destination and our return to the beautiful Cathedral in Oviedo. The Camino completed !!
A tremendous experience and a magnificent achievement for my young daughter.
There is a great deal of factual information available on the Camino de San Salvador, and a great deal of detailed planning can be made before commencing, though the great unknown is what the weather will be - or as in the case of this Camino, what has just been, which had been a lot of snow. We were very blessed, with very benign weather during the walk at the higher levels, with little wind and no snow or rain.
So to what unfolded :
Day 1: arrival in León, via a flight to Asturias Airport and the town of Oviedo. We had a few hours stop-over in Oviedo, a place which we already knew from previously walking the Camino Primitivo, as the Cathedral is the commencing point for the Camino Primitivo. Strangely, this Cathedral is also the culmination for the Camino de San Salvador, and it felt extraordinary to be making our way to and seeing the Cathedral, our intended destination within the next week. Oviedo is one of Spain's special places, and it was lovely to see the Cathedral once again. We returned to the bus station to take the coach to León, and by late afternoon were at Hotel Real Colegiata San Isidoro. What a special place this ecclesiastical complex is - highly recommended. A total honour and privilege to be staying in such a building and environment. In the later afternoon, we went to visit the Associasion de Amigos del Camino de Santago de León (Avenida Independencia Nº 2, 5º Izq), to collect our Credencial for the Camino de San Salvador and to talk about the current weather conditions on the Camino San Salvador.
Day 2: León
Today was goodbye to the Real Colegiata and time to commence life as Peregrinos. We vacated the comfort and splendour of our room at the Real Colegiata and passing the Cathedral, we collected the first sellos within the Credencials, before going to the Albergue de Peregrinos de las Benedictinas - Santa Mariá de Carbajal. The first Albergue for this Camino.
Day 3: León - La Robla
started walking at 7:46am arrival 4:40pm
Recorded distance 27.97kms / 44756 steps walked / 34 floors climbed
After ensuring that a photograph of us had been taken for posting on the Camino de San Salavdor web-page as a just-in-case measure, we finally set out in the rain from the Albergue, and I stopped briefly at the Basilica of San Isidoro de Leon at the Colegiata as we passed it, and had the bonus of a personal blessing from the Canónigo before re-commencing the Camino. It was a very slow exit from León, even though the route was very well marked. At the first opportunity for coffee, the only bar that we found open on this Easter Sunday, we stopped in Carbajal de la Legua (Bar Central). So far the walking had all been on road, but not long after leaving Carbjal de la Legua the Camino left the tarmac road behind and our walk commenced and continued on a dirt track. Mostly easy walking, the rain having stopped, with the occasional need to skirt the larger areas of mud. As mid-day approached there was a need to ascend, and finally some effort was required. In the early afternoon we stopped in Huergas de Gordon (Restaurante Buen Suceso - though this was really a bar) and had some quite good tapas to eat as well torrijas, which are a delicious speciality during Easter in León.
By the time we arrived at the Albergue in La Robla the rain had returned and the light was going, which did not help show the very grey town in anything other then a miserable light. At the Albergue we were to meet with Jose Antonio Cuñarro, 'Sr. San Salvador', and responsible for the Facebook page on this Camino. A wonderful man, he had walked part of the snow covered Camino this same day, and explained all that we would need to know for the walk ahead over the next few days. He also showed us images of where he had also spray painted in yellow on the snow, where there was potential for some doubts on the route, and he sent us the images. I also telephoned ahead, so as to ensure that at our planned destination they knew we were coming, and asked if food could be prepared for us for the following day at Poasado El Embrujo (Lucia - 659 013 282) in Poladura de la Tercia.
Day 4: La Robla - Poladura de la Tercia
started walking at 7:24am arrival 4:04pm
Recorded distance 27.27kms / 45029 steps walked / 106 floors climbed
After the rain of the day before, today was fresh and bright. After a little over 8kms we stopped in Pola de Gordón for the morning breakfast. By now we were at just a couple of meters over 1000m, and clearly seeing the snow that lay in the hills and mountains ahead, and by mid-day began to walk into the snow line. The going was at first fun and easy, but as we climbed higher (Ermita at 1080m, Buiza at 1120m and then finally a strong ascent to Forcades de San Antón which is 1462m) the snow got deeper and deeper and the going got tougher and tougher. A poor decision of mine was to continue walking without stopping to put on the walking gaiters, which lay deep in my back-pack. The final few kilometres to Poladura de la Tercia was particularly hard going, with very deep snow. After many falls and spills, we finally made it to very spartan and cold Albergue in Poladura de la Tercia. One small electric fan heater existed to heat the large room and try and dry all of our wet clothes and sodden footwear. The meal that had been arranged the day before was nothing short of a feast, and in great quantities. We arranged for a guide, Santy Gar, as well as renting snow shoes (raquetas) for the following days walking. Also once again called ahead and arranged so that there would be food for the following evening for when we were in the Albergue in Pajares (Marisa - 645 930 092).
Day 5: Poladura de la Tercia - Pajares
started walking at 8:42am arrival 4:44pm
Recorded distance 16.52kms / 25342 steps walked / 88 floors climbed
By the time that we had each got ourselves organised with the snow shoes, it was quite late before we set out. Still, the distance planned for the day was not that great, so it would not be a long day. Would it ? Whatever the experience of the day before, it had been a mere practice for today's walk. We made it to the Cruz de San Salvador (Alto de los Romeros - 1452m) at a little before 10:40am. About 2 hours to walk nearly 3kms, this was a particularly challenging 'walk', though we were so fortunate to have very, very little wind and no rain or snow falling. After this point the walk continued up, to the highest point of this Camino, Canto la Tusa at 1572m. Still, it continued at more or less the same altitude, with more snow and walking through cloud as well as fog. Reached another summit, Vista Arbas at 1560m - though with the poor visibility no vistas at all, and then the descent began. Arroya los Caballetas at 1370m was where a little dampness was felt on the face - please do not rain or snow !! Please !! And it passed, with only the mist and fog remaining. The descent was not as tiring as the ascent, but easy it was not. We emerged on to the snow-plough cleared N630 at the Colegiata de Santa María de Arbás, at Arbás de Puerto. It was only from here that we finally left the snow behind, as well as saying goodbye to Santy and the snow shoes, with which we never made friends. We continued our descent to the Albergue at Pajares walking on the N630, stopping for a delicious hot fish broth at the roadside bar Meson El Ruchu. Recommended. Slightly fortified, we continued to the Albergue at Pajares, to complete what had been a hard, if not that very long in distance walk. The Albergue at Pajares had central heating and was warm, and the warmth of the welcome from the hospitaleria, Marisa, will never be forgotten. Another feast of a supper, prepared by Marisa, served along with plenty of wine, allowed for a good nights sleep.
Day 6 : Pajares - Pola de Lena
started walking at 8:09am arrival 4:04pm
Recorded distance 25.84kms / 39896 steps walked / 122 floors climbed
A slowish start to the day, as we left Pajares and very quickly left the N630, we descended through a beautiful valley, stopping to see the new born lambs in the fields as well as along the path. At these lower levels there was no snow on the path, though it was quite wet, with frequent rivulets and streams cascading down from the snow thawing at higher levels, requiring prudent fording of the water and frequently the need to navigate mud on the path. We stopped for an enormous menu lunch at Campomanes, leaving the restaurant with the stomach totally filled with Asturian fabada. A few kilometres further, and we were very fortunate to find the pre-Romanic church of Santa Cristima de Lena open, which was well worth the very brief diversion (open 11.00 - 13.00 and 16.00-18.00, though closed on Mondays). From the Church it was a few more kilometres to arrive at the Albergue in Pola de Lena, and another very warm and friendly welcome from the hospitalero. In the evening we went to the Taberna FilanGuïra - close by and recommended.
Day 7 : Pola de Lena - Oviedo
started walking at 7:19am arrival 5.44pm
Recorded distance 35.02kms / 53046 steps walked / 66 floors climbedEarly departure from the Albergue, and good progress through Pola de Lena, before hesitating as to whether we were heading in the right direction. We back-tracked to ask - and met local folk who were also uncertain or did not know. We finally decided to proceed in the direction that we had originally been going and at last spotted the familiar yellow Camino arrow. Up to now, snow excepted, the Camino had generally been well indicated, but this was a stretch which was briefly sparse with few yellow arrows or 'conchas', at least few that we could see. We stopped for a far too weak coffee in the town of Ujo, before continuing for a far better breakfast in Mieres. The original plan had been to stay at the Albergue in Mieres, but we pressed on from Mieres to the final destination. After the snow on the higher sections of the Camino, now that we were at much lower altitudes - Mieres is at 215m - and with our clothing suitable for extrene cold, the high temperatures of today were being really felt. There were a few strong climbs during the later part of the day, and these were really tiring before the final gentle descent to the destination and our return to the beautiful Cathedral in Oviedo. The Camino completed !!
A tremendous experience and a magnificent achievement for my young daughter.
