A memory from the Invierno

[peregrina2000]

I was just reminiscing about my first Camino de Invierno in an email and was remembering a wonderful dinner on a terrace looking over the Minho River to vineyards that had produced the wine we were drinking, as the night fell and the stars came out. It was a really special and peaceful rest day that I spent there.

http://www.ribeirasacra.com

It is not far off the Camino at all. At the church in Diamondi, you begin a switchback descent called the Codos de Belesar, which takes you down to the Minho River. The Casa Santo Estevo is about 300 meters or so off that path, maybe about 1/3 of the way down. The owners will come get you at Diamondi, or you can easily walk there, but a phone call is advised because they host a lot of groups coming to do wine tours in the area. Phone numbers here:
http://www.ribeirasacra.com/language_english/contact_en.html

It is an incredible place, and I highly recommend it. And it is right next door to a fabulous romanesque church, an added bonus for people like me. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[petro]

This will be on my "to do" list when I am on the invierno! Only 2 weeks to go before I leave for SJPP!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Petro, would love to hear how you enjoy the Invierno. Are you walking alone? I´ll be back in July, can´t wait! It is really a beautiful walk.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

On a different tack, I can recommend the chichi little restaurant in Monforte de Lemos, that is attached to the Ribeira Sacra Vino Denomination de Origin center. Super tapas, nice creative cuisine, reasonable prices... and some of Spain´s best wine, too!

 

[peregrina2000]

On a different tack, I can recommend the chichi little restaurant in Monforte de Lemos, that is attached to the Ribeira Sacra Vino Denomination de Origin center. Super tapas, nice creative cuisine, reasonable prices... and some of Spain´s best wine, too!

Thanks, Reb, I will be sure we get this into the margins of our invierno guide (written by you of course!) So what types of wine are within the Ribeira Sacra Denomination? I remember walking through the towns where Mencía was produced, and I love Mencía, but I´m thinking that might not be Ribeira Sacra.

 

[petro]

Hi Laurie, yes I am walking alone, maybe I can talk somebody into joining me on the way really looking forward to it

Petro

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi Laurie, yes I am walking alone, maybe I can talk somebody into joining me on the way really looking forward to it

Petro

Hi, Petro, If you are starting in SJPP, you will have a lot of time to work on people. When I walked the Invierno, I joined the Francés in Sahagún from the Camino de Madrid and had only till Ponferrada, just a few days. A few of the people I met were tempted, but in the end I went alone. You can scare them with stories of the horrendous crowds on the Francés. I don´t blame any first-timers who want to stick with the Francés, but those many repeat offenders you will meet might be easier to convince.

One thing that kind of surprised me was the vehemence with which the hospitaleros in Ponferrada really tried to discourage me from walking the Invierno. They said it wasn´t well marked (wrong!), that it was dangerous (wrong!) and that I would be all alone (right!). The tourist office didn´t know anything about it either, maybe that has changed by now. Laurie

 

[KinkyOne]

On a different tack, I can recommend the chichi little restaurant in Monforte de Lemos, that is attached to the Ribeira Sacra Vino Denomination de Origin center. Super tapas, nice creative cuisine, reasonable prices... and some of Spain´s best wine, too!

Thanks, Rebekah!

Useful info. But can you tell me what are "reasonable prices"? I really don't know. I know for Logrono (tapas), Burgos (morcillas) and Melide & Fisterra (pulpo), and of course Menu del Dia/Peregrino all along the CF.

K1

 

[peregrina2000]

A few pictures to fill out the picture I described above: The house, the church next door and the view from (or close to) the house across the Minho River.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Thanks, Reb, I will be sure we get this into the margins of our invierno guide (written by you of course!) So what types of wine are within the Ribeira Sacra Denomination? I remember walking through the towns where Mencía was produced, and I love Mencía, but I´m thinking that might not be Ribeira Sacra.

Laurie, the Ribeira Sacra denomination is geographic, it goes onto the wine produced within that particular area. Just about every grape grown in that region is a Mencia -- a really ancient "workhorse" tinto grape that some say dates back to the Roman occupation of Spain. Mencia is also the base for Valdeorras DO tinto, (the wine region just east) and the big red wine found in El Bierzo DO. (You will also find whitish-pink wine with a resinous tang made from Godello grapes.) Lots of good things to taste and try on this camino!

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Thanks, Rebekah!

Useful info. But can you tell me what are "reasonable prices"? I really don't know. I know for Logrono (tapas), Burgos (morcillas) and Melide & Fisterra (pulpo), and of course Menu del Dia/Peregrino all along the CF.

K1

Three of us ate and drank very well for about 50 Euros, with wines matched beautifully to the food served. I do not recall deep-done specifics, but I know there was balsamic vinegar, endives, grilled leeks, and crispy bits of ham involved... and cheese to die for!

 

[petro]

Laurie, yes I agree that first timers will stick to the original route and I too don't blame them. Although I will talk to people about the possibility of joining me, I am preparing myself to to it alone. I have done my previous 2 camino's pretty much solo, so I am not worried so much about the walking part but the evenings might be a little lonely. I am taking my kindle though with lots of stuff to read.

I will let you know how it goes and I am sure will ask you for advice when I'm stuck!

Petro

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Petro, no worries! I walked it alone the first time, and if you just take it really easy you will arrive at your destination with just enough time to get your essentials done, have a look around, and CRASH. The etapas can be long, but there is lots of good to be said about that.

 

[petro]

Thanks Rebekah! I will take it as they say - one step at a time!