Glenshiro
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Le Puy - SdC, Podiensis, Frances, Invierno 2012-23
I thought I might just post a few updates on Laurie's excellent guide to the Invierno, gleaned from a short trip earlier this month. I got as far as A Rua before Covid intervened.
Loose dogs: I didn't encounter any of these between Ponferrada and A Rua. I heard the occasional barking dog, but seldom even saw them.
Santalla del Bierzo: the bar on the highway is now for sale, but looking semiderelict, with glass missing from at least one window.
Castillo de Cornatel: current opening hours are Wednesday to Sunday, 11 AM to 2 PM, then 4 PM to 8 PM. There is a telephone number, 606 89 8140.
Borrenes: I had lunch in the restaurant attached to the hotel Cornatel Medulas - not sure if it's the same place as Bar Casa Marisol, but the food was good. The landlady, initially a bit on the gruff side, mellowed quickly and took good care of me, including calling a taxi to my next destination.
La Peregrina, Carucedo. I had booked here as the hotel in Borrenes had no availability. I was aware that it was in a rural location, so was not greatly surprised when I arrived to find it locked and unattended, with a telephone number to ring for admission. Two telephone calls in Spanglish got me into the building and to a good room on the ground floor. It's a nice, modern hotel, and I have no complaints about my room (ceiling fan rather than air conditioning, but sufficient) However, I quickly discovered that there would be no staff there at all for the rest of the day and, in particular, no meal service. The person to whom I spoke on the phone suggested that I go to the supermarcado in the village, about a mile away in temperatures in the mid 30s, as there was nowhere open nearby serving meals on Monday evening. I ended up taking a rather expensive taxi to Las Medulas and an excellent meal in the hotel Medulio, whose manager gave me a lift back to the Peregrina. With hindsight, I should have stayed there. Later on, in A Rua, I met a Spanish peregrino who had had exactly the same experience, including staying in the same room.
Puente de Domingo Flórez: Bar el Cruce is closed on Tuesdays. I stayed the night at Hostal La Torre II, the two star hotel, at a rate of €55 for the night. Though slightly old-fashioned, the hotel is clean and comfortable. My original room was south facing and very hot and, without prompting, the manager appeared when I was having a drink in the bar and suggested I move to a cooler room, with a balcony. The staff are a friendly bunch, and I had a good evening meal there.
O Barco De Valdeorras: every bit as nice as advertised. I stayed at the Hotel Malecon, a modern air-conditioned building, without restaurant, in Rua des Pescadores, just off the Malecon. Good value at €52.50 a night. I had lunch and dinner at Casa Galaica, and confirm the food is excellent and good value, especially the menu del dia. Very friendly and helpful staff.
A Rúa de Valdeorras: had lunch at Mesón O Toño, Rúa Benito Fernández, which was good value and obviously very popular with locals.
The Invierno is a very interesting Camino, with some beautiful scenery. It is very quiet, pilgrim-wise: I only met one in the four days I was on it, a Spanish chap from Madrid. I hope to return next year to complete my journey to Santiago.
Loose dogs: I didn't encounter any of these between Ponferrada and A Rua. I heard the occasional barking dog, but seldom even saw them.
Santalla del Bierzo: the bar on the highway is now for sale, but looking semiderelict, with glass missing from at least one window.
Castillo de Cornatel: current opening hours are Wednesday to Sunday, 11 AM to 2 PM, then 4 PM to 8 PM. There is a telephone number, 606 89 8140.
Borrenes: I had lunch in the restaurant attached to the hotel Cornatel Medulas - not sure if it's the same place as Bar Casa Marisol, but the food was good. The landlady, initially a bit on the gruff side, mellowed quickly and took good care of me, including calling a taxi to my next destination.
La Peregrina, Carucedo. I had booked here as the hotel in Borrenes had no availability. I was aware that it was in a rural location, so was not greatly surprised when I arrived to find it locked and unattended, with a telephone number to ring for admission. Two telephone calls in Spanglish got me into the building and to a good room on the ground floor. It's a nice, modern hotel, and I have no complaints about my room (ceiling fan rather than air conditioning, but sufficient) However, I quickly discovered that there would be no staff there at all for the rest of the day and, in particular, no meal service. The person to whom I spoke on the phone suggested that I go to the supermarcado in the village, about a mile away in temperatures in the mid 30s, as there was nowhere open nearby serving meals on Monday evening. I ended up taking a rather expensive taxi to Las Medulas and an excellent meal in the hotel Medulio, whose manager gave me a lift back to the Peregrina. With hindsight, I should have stayed there. Later on, in A Rua, I met a Spanish peregrino who had had exactly the same experience, including staying in the same room.
Puente de Domingo Flórez: Bar el Cruce is closed on Tuesdays. I stayed the night at Hostal La Torre II, the two star hotel, at a rate of €55 for the night. Though slightly old-fashioned, the hotel is clean and comfortable. My original room was south facing and very hot and, without prompting, the manager appeared when I was having a drink in the bar and suggested I move to a cooler room, with a balcony. The staff are a friendly bunch, and I had a good evening meal there.
O Barco De Valdeorras: every bit as nice as advertised. I stayed at the Hotel Malecon, a modern air-conditioned building, without restaurant, in Rua des Pescadores, just off the Malecon. Good value at €52.50 a night. I had lunch and dinner at Casa Galaica, and confirm the food is excellent and good value, especially the menu del dia. Very friendly and helpful staff.
A Rúa de Valdeorras: had lunch at Mesón O Toño, Rúa Benito Fernández, which was good value and obviously very popular with locals.
The Invierno is a very interesting Camino, with some beautiful scenery. It is very quiet, pilgrim-wise: I only met one in the four days I was on it, a Spanish chap from Madrid. I hope to return next year to complete my journey to Santiago.
