good_old_shoes
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Francés ('15, '19)
Via Coloniensis ('16)
Trier-Nancy + Le Puy-Fisterra ('17)
Aragonés ('18)
So I'm currently, finally, on the Camino from home I aways wanted to do, and oh man, it's so not going smooth during its first month.
As expected, I had to do some (many...) very long stages to avoid high to exorbitant hotel rates. Up to 40kms. Many around 30. I also took public transport a few times for the same reason. I knew before about that, no problem. That's okay. 20kms feel like a full rest day now.
But also, my backpack died after about two weeks. Or, to be more precise, I acknowledged what I had known before. My trusted friend of many years and kms had close to no padding anymore and gave me some serious pain in the shoulders.
Then also my sandals died. The soles came off. I've never had that happen with my Tevas. Ever. Not even after thousands of kms. It happened after only 400kms. Because of a bad mix of long distances, dissolving shoes, heat, and an uncomfortable backpack, I got blisters. I usually never get blisters when walking in sandals.
So, I went to the next big city by train, bought new sandals and a new backpack, which cost me about 1/2 month of walking. Which means poor diet for the next weeks, or to be more realistic, about a month. The backpack is great, but the new Tevas are not fitting as well as the old ones. There wasn't much to choose from. I'm now mostly walking in my old pair of backup sandals without any profile on the soles left.
I'm still getting blisters, currently at #10 or so. Some are in layers by now. I know how to deal with them, but it's so annoying. Didn't have that problem since Camino #1 in 2015. I've refilled my giant first aid kit three times already.
I also had an accident falling over a tent peg, which resulted in a nasty wound, which took almost three weeks to heal. Now that it's finally healed, today I had a stupid accident again and now have a painful haematoma on my hand. Another trip to the pharmacy it is then. So I don't just walk like the zombies from "the walking dead", I can't even use my hiking staff properly to help with that. Even typing this is painful.
Did I mention I've been stung by a bee and bitten by a spider also? It's ridiculous. My last bee sting was 30 years ago. Never have been bitten by a spider. Apart from bedbugs, I love insects! Not sure what's happening here!
The whole thing is still absolutely fabulous, though. I love it. So many incredible experiences. So much beauty to be found everywhere, in landscape, towns, and most of all people. But it's a very lonely path so far, and no other pilgrims to share the difficulties with. Certainly can't tell my family, or they'll probably try to come and take me home.
The only pilgrims I met so far I only saw for a few hours max. Most were on bikes. Met one person so far also walking the whole distance to Santiago, met them for about 5 min. And one peregrina on the way to Rome on foot - we exchanged blister stories and maps. That was really nice. Also, that was about two weeks ago.
Once there were two other pilgrims in one of the very few pilgrim hostels on this route. They went out to party until 1am, then came back totally drunk / on drugs? and continued partying until 2:30 am in the hostel, screaming, yelling, slamming doors, and taking night time showers. It also sounded as if they were moving and trashing the furniture in their room (thankfully, I was next door and had locked my room). They also brought a third pilgrim with them to sleep there, who, I'm pretty sure, had not payed. That much for "party pilgrims on the last 100km".... this was more like the last 2000kms, and still I was happy they were walking to Rome, and not to Santiago!
Anyway. Sorry if this sounds like whining. It's not meant to be.
Today I walked a short day of 15kms. Had enough time to wash my clothes AND dry them, go to the supermarket, take a shower, and relax in the shade. It feels so good. I also sheltered in an elementary school today for an hour, during a thunderstorm, because there was no other shelter to be found. The children were so cute!!! The teacher even offered to drive me to the next town in case that the storm doesn't calm down soon, and to have lunch together with everyone else.
The hospitality you find on this rarely walked paths is incredible.
So, what do I want to say?
Should I ever make it to Spain, and you see this pilgrim with an expensive-brand-backpack walking into your donativo, please don't think I'm rich. It cost me several years of saving money, a career change, a burnout, quitting my job, and some painful weeks of walking with blisters and mainly eating bread and peanuts on my way. I'll still donate, of course, but it might not be as much as I'd like to.
As expected, I had to do some (many...) very long stages to avoid high to exorbitant hotel rates. Up to 40kms. Many around 30. I also took public transport a few times for the same reason. I knew before about that, no problem. That's okay. 20kms feel like a full rest day now.
But also, my backpack died after about two weeks. Or, to be more precise, I acknowledged what I had known before. My trusted friend of many years and kms had close to no padding anymore and gave me some serious pain in the shoulders.
Then also my sandals died. The soles came off. I've never had that happen with my Tevas. Ever. Not even after thousands of kms. It happened after only 400kms. Because of a bad mix of long distances, dissolving shoes, heat, and an uncomfortable backpack, I got blisters. I usually never get blisters when walking in sandals.
So, I went to the next big city by train, bought new sandals and a new backpack, which cost me about 1/2 month of walking. Which means poor diet for the next weeks, or to be more realistic, about a month. The backpack is great, but the new Tevas are not fitting as well as the old ones. There wasn't much to choose from. I'm now mostly walking in my old pair of backup sandals without any profile on the soles left.
I'm still getting blisters, currently at #10 or so. Some are in layers by now. I know how to deal with them, but it's so annoying. Didn't have that problem since Camino #1 in 2015. I've refilled my giant first aid kit three times already.
I also had an accident falling over a tent peg, which resulted in a nasty wound, which took almost three weeks to heal. Now that it's finally healed, today I had a stupid accident again and now have a painful haematoma on my hand. Another trip to the pharmacy it is then. So I don't just walk like the zombies from "the walking dead", I can't even use my hiking staff properly to help with that. Even typing this is painful.
Did I mention I've been stung by a bee and bitten by a spider also? It's ridiculous. My last bee sting was 30 years ago. Never have been bitten by a spider. Apart from bedbugs, I love insects! Not sure what's happening here!
The whole thing is still absolutely fabulous, though. I love it. So many incredible experiences. So much beauty to be found everywhere, in landscape, towns, and most of all people. But it's a very lonely path so far, and no other pilgrims to share the difficulties with. Certainly can't tell my family, or they'll probably try to come and take me home.
The only pilgrims I met so far I only saw for a few hours max. Most were on bikes. Met one person so far also walking the whole distance to Santiago, met them for about 5 min. And one peregrina on the way to Rome on foot - we exchanged blister stories and maps. That was really nice. Also, that was about two weeks ago.
Once there were two other pilgrims in one of the very few pilgrim hostels on this route. They went out to party until 1am, then came back totally drunk / on drugs? and continued partying until 2:30 am in the hostel, screaming, yelling, slamming doors, and taking night time showers. It also sounded as if they were moving and trashing the furniture in their room (thankfully, I was next door and had locked my room). They also brought a third pilgrim with them to sleep there, who, I'm pretty sure, had not payed. That much for "party pilgrims on the last 100km".... this was more like the last 2000kms, and still I was happy they were walking to Rome, and not to Santiago!
Anyway. Sorry if this sounds like whining. It's not meant to be.
Today I walked a short day of 15kms. Had enough time to wash my clothes AND dry them, go to the supermarket, take a shower, and relax in the shade. It feels so good. I also sheltered in an elementary school today for an hour, during a thunderstorm, because there was no other shelter to be found. The children were so cute!!! The teacher even offered to drive me to the next town in case that the storm doesn't calm down soon, and to have lunch together with everyone else.
The hospitality you find on this rarely walked paths is incredible.
So, what do I want to say?
Should I ever make it to Spain, and you see this pilgrim with an expensive-brand-backpack walking into your donativo, please don't think I'm rich. It cost me several years of saving money, a career change, a burnout, quitting my job, and some painful weeks of walking with blisters and mainly eating bread and peanuts on my way. I'll still donate, of course, but it might not be as much as I'd like to.