5am tomorrow...

[StuartM]

... I set off for the airport, fly to Asturias, bus to Leon then on Sunday I start the slow plod north on the Salvador trail.

Thank you to everyone whose experience has helped in planning, it has been much appreciated.

Depending on internet/3G availability I'll try to blog a few pictures as I go: www.summerisle.blogspot.com

Back in a week

 

[angulero]

Cuando mañana estés cruzando a León desde Asturias en autobús, si no está nublado, fíjate en las montañas altas que verás a la derecha a lo lejos, son las Ubiñas. Intenta sentarte en la parte derecha.

When morning're crossing Bus Leon from Asturias, if not clear, look at the high mountains you see on the right in the distance, are the Ubiñas. Try sitting on the right side.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

5 am, that means you're on the way now already. I will follow your blog and I'm looking forward to your trip report.
And don't forget to turn left at the Parador!

 

[StuartM]

Well 3 hour drive to the airport done, currently waiting for my plane at 11.45, should be in Leon by early evening.

That picture looks amazing, I will be keeping my eye out!

 

[angulero]

Buen viaje...

 

[LTfit]

Look forward to following you StuartM. I am only three weeks back from the Sanabrés and am already plotting my next Camino: the Salvador followed by the Primitivo.

Wonderful pictures angulero, son preciosas!

 

[MML]

Look forward to hearing about your journey... I'll be there in 4 weeks... Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Stuart, savor every step of this beautiful walk, I can't wait to hear all about it. Buen camino! Laurie

 

[Rebekah Scott]

the whole world is watching!

 

[peregrina2000]

and waiting....

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Also waiting....
Am so curious wondering how things are going out there.

 

[LTfit]

haha, you would think that we had nothing beter to do...

 

[StuartM]

Well I'm in Campomanes and fair to say it is a lot tougher than I expected. Sorry for not updating my blog but wifi hasnt been available much.

All I can say...wow! That doesnt do it justice. I really cant think of a more beautiful few days. It certainly is an amazing walk. I've had to give up Pena Ubina as the steady 5km/h I did on the Frances is more like 3 here. Plus the lack of proper meals has taken its toll. Lovely menu peregrino in the albergue in Pajares last night though.

And the big question... The path at Puerto de Pajares... It exists but you'd need to be braver than me to try it. Will post more later but the field with the bull was the way I went instead.

Regards,

Stuart

 

[peregrina2000]

Great to hear from you Stuart. I was just worried that you were still drinking beer in the Asturias airport.

Enjoy the rest of the walk, and make sure to eat! Buen camino.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

I was just worried that you were still drinking beer in the Asturias airport.

Laughing! Me too, actually.

 

[angulero]

Espero que estés disfrutando este camino.

Hope you're enjoying this way.

 

[StuartM]

Espero que estés disfrutando este camino.

Hope you're enjoying this way.

Enjoying isn't anywhere near strong enough. Amazing would not be exagerating. It really is as good as everyone says.

Only been one other pilgrim in the albergues so far.

And my first Asturian sidra:

 

[angulero]

Cuidado con la sidra, que es muy traicionera...
Acompáñala de una buena cena.

Be carefull with Cider, which is very treacherous ...
Join her for a nice dinner.

 

[GunnarW]

I didn't see the gadget (uploadfromtaptalk*.jpg). Otherwise I would bought one to use with the 4 bottles sidra I took with me. How does it work: mechanical or electrical?

 

[StuartM]

I didn't see the gadget (uploadfromtaptalk*.jpg). Otherwise I would bought one to use with the 4 bottles sidra I took with me. How does it work: mechanical or electrical?

Battery powered. I just need to find somewhere to buy/acquire one.

 

[StuartM]

Well... I've finished. Made it to Oviedo a couple of hours aga and I cant recall ever hurting so much.

Sightseeing tomorrow, there's an exhibition on the Turin Shroud on in cathedral square. I think the Sudarium may actually be on show so very exciting if it is.

I'll do some reflections on the trip when home on sunday. At the moment I am refuelling with a menu del dia

 

[peregrina2000]

Congratulations, Stuart. Sounds like there's a lot going on -- and I assume you'll go to La Gascona where a live person and not a little manequin pours your sidra! If you're a cheese fan, have a plate of Queso Artesenal -- Asturian cheeses are yummy -- my favorite is La Peral, it's a creamy blue cheese that's not too strong. YUM! Enjoy enjoy. Laurie

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Congrats Stuart!
Good to hear you made i!. Will be interesting to hear more about it later.
Only two weeks, then it's my turn!

 

[angulero]

Battery powered. I just need to find somewhere to buy/acquire one.

http://shop.escanciadorelectrico.com/

A mí no me hace falta el escanciador eléctrico.

I do not need the electric cupbearer.

 

[StuartM]

Spent the day in Oviedo and yep La Gascona was worth the visit

The Shroud exhibition was surprisingly interesting and VERY graphic. The Sudarium sadly is only a reproduction, couple of weeks til it on show.

And Naranco... I'll probably offend a lot of people but given the choice between La Camara Santa and Naranco... Naranco wins hands down if you are pushed for time. I see why Laurie is so passionate about encouraging visits. It really is breathtaking. Miss it and you really miss a spectacular pair of sites. Standing on the balcony you really feel like king (or queen) for a moment. Wonderful. May visit Santullano tomorrow if I have time or even wander up for another visit.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Stuart,
I am never sure that others will agree with my assessment of the beauty of those places. I mean, really, telling someone they just have to visit the shining examples of Asturian pre-romanesque architecture sounds kind of ridiculous. But the setting is idyllic, the stones are so lovingly carved, and the thought that these places have been there for more than 1000 years just fills me with awe every time I go up there. I think I've been there five times now and they are still my only "cannot miss" place in Oviedo (well, along with the Woody Allen statue and a few hours at a table on La Gascona)!

 

[LTfit]

Felicidades Stuart and enjoy the the rest of your visit. Look forward to hearing your final account!

 

[StuartM]

I loved Santa Cristina and the restored church in Uj(x)o too. I'm not a big fan of post-1600 religious architecture and art. Too much self-importance and I find, as a non- Catholic, the imagery very disturbing. I like Gothic but again it can get a bit over blown.

But the pre-romanesque (and even Romanesque) has real beauty and simplicity. You can really see people going there to celebrate whereas a lot of the later stuff I think is there more to scare you into submission. Grand cathedrals I never find welcoming whereas these little places seem to draw you in.

I love all the nature imagery too. It said in the visitor centre that many of these churches were built on top of former pagan sites like tombs and standing stones so maybe that's why the locations are so out of the ordinary?

Standing on the palace balcony in the late evening sun... I could be very happy there!

They are a total contrast to the cathedral or San Tirso. A real happy place if you ask me. I guess that's why so many locals go for a post-work walk up there.