1. The 3 things not to be missed on the Camino Norte. 2. The 3 best Albergues you encountered on your walk.
3 general tips when doing the Norte .[/QUOTE
Not quite in the order you wanted, but here is some info I hope you will like and will be helpful:
Tips:
Things not to be missed:
1-FOOD & DRINK (Yes, this is it’s own category under 1 thing not to be missed, with submenus ;0)
A. Pintxos in San Sebastian:
a. A fuego Negro, Calle 31 de Agosto, 31 (horrible service but very innovative food)
b. La cuchara de San Telmo
They are 100 yards from each other, in the old part of town, to the right of the church. The entrance to La cuchara is on the back of the building, on the little alley. If staying at the Youth Hostel and are tired from the walk from Irun, take a bus to the main park and walk up the street through the old town.
2- Karlos Arguinano restaurant, facing the beach is Zarautz (very well known Spanish chef for his TV cooking shows. Now has his restaurant where he serves typical regional food, but with excellent execution)
3- Eloria: not even a small hamlet, smaller than that, between Zumaia and Itziar. There’s a tiny little bar where the lady is super lovely. When I walked in desperate for protein (I had decided not to eat in Zumaia and keep moving, not a good move!), she grilled me a lovely tuna filet, served with a tomato salad. And then she came over with a glass, asking me if I drank alcohol. Well, not when I still have to climb mountains and get off them, but … She served me a glass of the Txacoli (sparkling wine from the region) made in the winery across the street. When people say “The Camino will provide”, this is what is meant.
4- Pintxos in Bilbao: in the many restaurants/bars around the Plaza Nueva atrium. Walk around it once to spot the top three locations to sample from.
5- Late lunch in the one and only restaurant in Liendo – not on the plaza your cross to get to the albergue, a bit off to the right, when you have your back turned to the albergue. Home style cooking with an interesting menu and a whole bottle of wine, for 10 euros.
6- In Santillana del Mar restaurant: El pasaje de los nobles. Try their fabada, the lemon mouse is also lovely.
7- In Llanes, you must try the Carbayones, éclair-type pastry, but filled with almond paste. To die for.
8- Anywhere you can find it: vermud solera, vermud aged locally by the bars themselves, or their supplier. None of this generic Cinzano. And did I say Txacoli and Cider poured from a gnome or a woden contraption. Another “3” ;0) Saw a gnome in San Vicente de la Barquera, in the bar of a restaurant of the row of restaurants under a long awning. Can’t remember the name of the restaurant, but it has white and blue tiles decorating the arch of the front door. You’ll see the gnome on the bar. Their sopa asturiana is lovely (similar to the fabada, as are the grilled sardines).
SITES NOT TO BE MISSED
1- The small secluded beach outside of Hazas (Liendo). Ask the hospitaleros at the Saturino albergue how to leave the next day through towards the Ermita de San Julian, and not by the road (they have a home made map that they give pilgrims!). It’s a lovely trek and when you pass the Ermita, keep on eye on your right, you will be standing at the top of a cliff with the most beautiful view of the sea, and a secluded beach at the bottom of a path. Perfect!
2- Church is San Vicente de la Barquera, in the old fort, a stone’s throw from the algergue you should do everything to avoid ;0) The floor of the church, which was named “Bien cultural” in 1931. Its floor is made up of large wooden planks: each of them is actually a tomb.
3- In Llanes, “las casas de Indianos”, mansions built by the locals who immigrated to South American and built these mansions with the fortunes they made. Typical bourgeois South American mansions of the early 1900.
4- Also: in Comillas the Gaudi Palace, but also the University. In Santillana the caves (but do know you only get to visit a perfect reproduction of it, BUT, every Friday morning there is a draw amongst people present and a handful of them have the unbelievable opportunity to visit the real cave).
ALBERGUES:
1- In Markina, Albergue Intxauspe. Family home with B&B section and a dorm section in the old chicken coup. Home made dinner as well, and breakfast. The best: the lawn chairs in the front yard overseeing the village which is a 4 minute walk away.
2- In Noja, the Casona the Noja, just off the turism office and on the large plaza, is a family run B&B that has two rooms with two single beds and private bathrooms for pilgrims. 10 Euros per person. Since I was the only one there that night, I got a private room all to myself. And in a city where the traditional albergue is apparently awful, this is a pearl.
3- In Santillana del Mar, el Solar de Hildalgos. It’s actually and B&B in a 16th Century “palacio” – in the back, through the courtyard, there are two dorms: one for the ladies, one for the boys. The bathroom is HUGE, had a bath tub (jets don’t work though) and a shower with jets. The room is a bit dark and damp, but really, who cares ;0).
4- Generic but modern and impeccable: Deba: the old train station: washer and drier and no hanging of wet clothes, but the drying is a work horse: get a bunch of people together, fill it up, half through the cycle, take your dry stuff out and have another group put in their wet clothes. Zarautz Hotel, above the gas station when you walk into town (but also overpriced). AVOID at all cost the Botxo Albergue across the river from the Guggenheim: 3 layers of bunks, and no one on site to monitor safety during the night. Great location though. Saturino in Liendo. Finally, in Boo de Pielagos, outside of Santader, 20 yards from the train station, the station where you must catch the train to avoid a 10km detour because the only bridge there is for the train, albergue de Pilar. Top floor of the totally renovated family home. Impecable, bed made with sheets and blankets, bathroom with soap, shampoo, conditioner and towels. Big terrace to dry your clothes and get some R&R. The menu is ok, but expensive for what it is. They prepare cake and coffee for you to enjoy in the morning before you let yourself out.
