- Time of past OR future Camino
- started in 2012, hooked ever since.
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As usual Laurie, many thanks.Hi, @laineylainey. This thread shows my stages from 2017. That was the year I walked the coastal alternatives so it includes those "detours."
Getaria is one of those cutesy little tourist towns with very nice places to eat and stay. I see you are going a few kms beyond, but you might really like it.
Highly recommend the albergue in Izarbide, more for its setting than anything else.
One little recommendation about Ribadesella. I have been through there several times now and never made my way to the Cuevas de Tito Bustillo. If I ever get back, it will be high on my list.
TITO BUSTILLO CAVE - UNESCO SITE
Tito Bustillo Cave is a part of the Ardines massif: a calcareous stone formation placed by the estuary of the Sella River. Pozu’l Ramu is the name of the crack on the top of the massif that was used in 1968 by Tito Bustillo’s expedition to discover this cave.With Lascaux and Altamira caves, this...www.ribadesella.es
30,000 years old? Blows the mind. And unlike the caves at Santillana, visitors are still allowed into the actual site.
Buen camino, Laurie
I have visited that cave.One little recommendation about Ribadesella. I have been through there several times now and never made my way to the Cuevas de Tito Bustillo. If I ever get back, it will be high on my list.
TITO BUSTILLO CAVE - UNESCO SITE
Tito Bustillo Cave is a part of the Ardines massif: a calcareous stone formation placed by the estuary of the Sella River. Pozu’l Ramu is the name of the crack on the top of the massif that was used in 1968 by Tito Bustillo’s expedition to discover this cave.With Lascaux and Altamira caves, this...www.ribadesella.es
30,000 years old? Blows the mind. And unlike the caves at Santillana, visitors are still allowed into the actual site.
Buen camino, Laurie
I can definitely recommend Aves del Paso in Pendueles (reservation necessary as it is always full).The idea about going on from Getaria, is someone in one of the past posts was talking about Albergues on the Norte that were highly recommended and they mentioned Agote Aundi at Askizu. Can't remember who it was?
Good to know, thanksI can definitely recommend Aves del Paso in Pendueles (reservation necessary as it is always full).
I know the question was not meant for me but I like the "river route" out of Bilbao. Over the last few years the bike path has been improved. It's fine. There is some sidewalk walking next to motorcycle repair shops and car dealerships when the bike path goes away. But then you get to take The Vizcaya Bridge which is a treat for me!@peregrina2000 . I notice day 6 ( Larrebetzu to Poretugalete through Bilbao and on the right side of the Ría -- 27) you follow the route by the river. Was that the bike path on the North side of the river over the Bizkaia bridge? In the new guide it mentions there are 3 routes out of Bilbao, one which initially climbs to the Municipal Albergue, 4.4k outside Bilbao. The second which looks like urban road walking and the third one which I think you did? Just wondering whether to consider the route up which then comes down through Barakaldo? Or is the flatter route to Portugalete better?
Thanks, that's really helpful.I know the question was not meant for me but I like the "river route" out of Bilbao. Over the last few years the bike path has been improved. It's fine. There is some sidewalk walking next to motorcycle repair shops and car dealerships when the bike path goes away. But then you get to take The Vizcaya Bridge which is a treat for me!
BTW: in the past I've walked straight through Bilbao to Portugalete along this route, bypassing the city altogether. Bilbao has good museums tho.
Ok, one more thing. You can bypass the "inner city" walking in Bilbao by just following the river after you cross it. Then you cross it again to the other side on the "curvy" bridge. I think its theThanks, that's really helpful.
Nah, not so bad. It is kinda nice I think whenever I've been there. But, ANYTIME anyone is walking out of or into a big city it is not ideal. Well, Logrono is pretty nice. (but that's an entirely different camino altogether).I think it would be a very urban experience walking there during the week.
Yes, I did that once. If it hasn’t changed since 2006, it was not a great route. Nice lunch spot on a bench on the river in Barakaldo, but the before and after had some not so nice spots. Leaving Bilbao it took us on some path (not the road) past some abandoned or badly maintained industrial sites, and then past some shanty type housing on the side of a hill down to Barakaldo. Nothing scary, just not pleasant.Out of interest has anyone walked route 1 out of Bilbao, up to the Municipal Albergue then down through Barakaldo?
Again, great to know. The new guide just mentions that 2 marked routes out of Bilbao split before the Hospital. Then there is the option of the climb to the Albergue then a descent to Castrejana. It mentions spectacular views and walking "past working class neighbourhoods of Bilbao" en route to Barakaldo and Sestao. Interestingly the 2nd option, the authors don't recommend, where it follows the river and initially the N634 and then smaller roads and pedestrian paths. They call it " mostly unpleasant urban walking" and recommend the first option!Yes, I did that once. If it hasn’t changed since 2006, it was not a great route. Nice lunch spot on a bench on the river in Barakaldo, but the before and after had some not so nice spots. Leaving Bilbao it took us on some path (not the road) past some abandoned or badly maintained industrial sites, and then past some shanty type housing on the side of a hill down to Barakaldo. Nothing scary, just not pleasant.
The route from Barakaldo to Sestao took us to an abandoned apartment building (broken windows and all that) that had been “occupied.” In the time it took us to walk past the building and up onto a regular road, I remember that at least two or three fancy cars came down, rolled down their window, something was exchanged, and off they went.
I would love to hear from someone who has walked this way recently, because I would be surprised if it is still the same route.
Again, great to know. The new guide just mentions that 2 marked routes out of Bilbao split before the Hospital. Then there is the option of the climb to the Albergue then a descent to Castrejana. It mentions spectacular views and walking "past working class neighbourhoods of Bilbao" en route to Barakaldo and Sestao. Interestingly the 2nd option, the authors don't recommend, where it follows the river and initially the N634 and then smaller roads and pedestrian paths. They call it " mostly unpleasant urban walking" and recommend the first option!
The 3rd option the authors mention is the bike path by the river to Portugalete
Thanks again Laurie. No I shall be taking the route on the right side of the river out of the city. I look forward to the experience of the transporter bridge.I really can’t tell from the description which of those first two we took. Looking at the three routes Gronze shows, it must have been the one in the middle because I definitely remember eating lunch on a bench on the river in Barakaldo. But I would also not be surprised if there have been changes. So I would go with their recommendation and hope you don’t see too many drug deals.
Like Damien, I thought it was very cool to take that transporter bridge. I was told it is a Unesco World Heritage site!
Thanks Damien. Great to look forward to for my last day's meal!OK. one more thing. There is a good pizza place in Ribadesella.
Pizzería Bocca Café
think a stop off in Bilbao might be an option. It's been a long time since I stayed there. What do people recommend as accommodation?
Bilbao is a beautiful reborn city, in fact one the only cities I regularly return to in NW Spain (I'm not a city person), although I've not stayed there as normally train in on the Euskotren from Mundaka during our roadtrips. I haven't walked the Norte, but have spent the last 10+ years exploring all along the beautiful NW coast and would love to walk it one day.think a stop off in Bilbao might be an option. It's been a long time since I stayed there. What do people recommend as accommodation?
There seems to be an array of accommodation choices in Castro Urdiales, is anywhere recommended?
Yes, I did 4A. There is a dicey spot on the ”pure” coastal route, discussed in this thread, which I would not try but others have. My live post said my GPS recorded 33.5 to center of Laredo. So wherever I wrote 27 was wrong. Maybe it was assuming taking the “shortcut” alongside the national highway, which many/most people do. The gronze map is a bit complicated, but I think in combination with others’ notes, you can find the route you want to walk.I am looking at the coastal alternatives and how to avoid the highway between Castro Urdiales and Liendo and then possibly onto Laredo. Laurie in your notes you have 2 alternatives to this stretch to avoid the highway. I am think you walked 4a down into La Magdalena? Looking at the new Guide it too mentions alternative routes but seems to suggest that it is 24.4k from Castro to Liendo and then a further 7.2 to Laredo. Your stages note from 2017 says 27k from Castro to Laredo.
I am pretty sure the place I stayed when I walked the Olvidado with Susanna was the Pensión La Fuente. It’s very close to the cathedral and all the great tapas places. It’s a family run place - looks like a home turned into a pensión. I remember the doorknob came off in my hand when I went into my room, and the owner was so embarrassed.
I try to avoid hostels (as opposted to hostales) in big cities, but there are quite a few on Gronze.
Well your finish point is perfect to visit the beautiful Cudillero. I've stayed many times in Oviñana (with flora my dog) which is near Cudillero and has good facilities, and has many beautiful beaches and walks nearby (Playa Vallina, then a bit further along Playa Silencio and Playa Gueirua). Then if you're going further don't miss the beautiful Luarca, and just after is my favourite beach in Spain, Playa Barayo which you walk down through a nature reserve to. The whole coast is beautiful in so many ways.Well my route is more or less mapped out. I hope to walk 3 weeks and finish in Soto de Luina and from there rejoin my hubby and dogs in the campervan to travel further.
Laurie, sadly it looks as though Pensión La Fuente is closed permanently, which is sad, as like you I love staying in family run places.
Anyone got any central Santander accomodation recommendations? Want to do the coastal route to Boo the following day and it has been mentioned that there is a city centre bus route that can shave a few km off the route.
Thank you so much for such useful information , photos and maps @OldHands . I have found an Albergue (Cantabria) which looks like it is close to Jesús de Monasterio so I can get the bus you mention. Can I ask what distance then did you walk to Boo. I am so looking forward to this walk and like you I am very grateful for those who have shared it.In Santander I stayed at the Hospedaje Magallanes which I can recommend without a doubt. Close to the center, but on a quiet street. Good value for money. Booked on booking.com. I paid 35 Є for a single room at the end of May this year. Link (not affiliate) below
★★ Hospedaje Magallanes, Santander, Spain
Hospedaje Magallanes offers comfortable accommodation in the centre of Santander, 5 minutes' walk from the bus and train stations, as well as the ferry...www.booking.com
The next day in the morning I took a bus number 13 at the nearby stop, called Jesús de Monasterio 21. It took me about 20 minutes to get to the stop where I wanted to get off, it is called Inés Diego Del Noval 50.
The first bus #13 on a weekday leaves at 7am (on weekends around 8 am. see moovit.com for hours). It is a bus that goes to "Cueto por el Sardinero". You buy a ticket from the driver for 1.30 Є.
It is about 20 minutes walk to reach the Panteón del Inglés (a small chapel) which is already on our coastal path. I didn't go all the way around Sardinero beach because I already did it in the past.
I made a little map showing the bus route and my way to the Pantheon. Here it is.
I would also like to thank everyone who promoted this beautiful coastal way to Boo on this forum. This is where I learned about this alternative. Thank you!
The map of the entire alternative stage to Boo is here
Thank you @Simperegrina@laineylainey or you take the bus from Santander city centre up to near the lighthouse and start from there. That saves a few kms. You get off at the last stop near the golf course. Can’t be certain of the bus route number, but I think it might be #1A. I stayed near the terminal where you disembark from the ferry across from Somo, which gives a 1km head start on the route starting in the city centre.
Can I ask what distance then did you walk to Boo.
Are you sure Cantabria is the name of the albergue? If I know the name, I can add it to the map, but I couldn't find that oneI have found an Albergue (Cantabria) which looks like it is close to Jesús de Monasterio
Sorry ,Albergue Cantiber ,Calle Burgos 4The distance from where I started to Boo is between 23 and 26 km depending on how close you follow the coast. I didn't exactly follow the track I had. I noticed that I was moving much slower than on the Camino for several reasons. 1, I stopped many times to marvel at the beauty of the coastline and take pictures. 2, I had to check my GPS track on the phone many times, there are many paths and there are no arrows or anything, so you have to be alert. And 3, the path in some places is uneven, you have to watch your feet. Not all the time, but this coast is quite rugged, so in some parts you have to be more careful and it slows you down.
If you want to start earlier, closer to the Lighthouse, there are more buses, including number 1 and 2, but the distance would probably be 3-4 km longer. Buses #1 and #2 will take you to the end of Sardinero beach and you can start walking from there. But in that case I would recommend splitting this stage into two days spending the night in Soto de la Marina.
Are you sure Cantabria is the name of the albergue? If I know the name, I can add it to the map, but I couldn't find that one
I took the coastal route in Jun, and enjoyed itThe stage from Comillas to Columbres gives 2 routes once crossed the Captain river. The official route goes straight on close to the coast by the looks of it. The alternative goes inland. Both join at San Vicente de la Barquera. I take it the official coastal route is best?
Thanks once again @SimperegrinaI took the coastal route in Jun, and enjoyed it
Enjoy! It’s a super journeyStart from Írun this Friday. Really looking forward to this Camino. I have really appreciated the posts and attachments on the coastal alternatives.
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