Enjoying regional wine on the Camino

[Calimocho]

vino, calemare, padron chile

• Calimocho
• Dec 14, 2016
• 4

white wine

• Calimocho
• Dec 14, 2016
• 2

While walking a section of the Camino from Los Arcos to Burgos, I not only enjoyed walking through vineyards, but sampling the local wines at the end of the day. I was sorry that I didn't know a little more about the varieties, though, so that I would know what to order if I wanted to try a wine that was produced in that region. Now that I'm back home, I have a year to do my "research", but I thought some of you might have some insight concerning the wine - and also beer - of Spain. Are there any interesting wines that you tried along the way? Is there any particular way to order them - similar to the way you ask for a caña when you want a small glass of draft beer? What do they call the beer that seems to be mixed with lemonade? I was also intrigued by the bowl-like glass in which my white wine was served in Logroño. Is this glass used for only a certain variety?

 

[Saint Mike II]

Great suggestion about doing some Spanish Vino Research for next year.

 

[Hiawatha]

Food , wine , introspection and companionship are things that I am looking forward to next May . A wonderful suggestion calimocho . I am all ears !

 

[scruffy1]

Galicia: White wine rules! Albariño of course!! Don't be shy it's expensive expect to pay at least 12E a bottle better even more and don't be tempted by the plonk sold by the glass in bars. Godello is also very good, more than a poor man's Albariño and much less expemsive. Just to the East is Bierzo look for it in Villafranca, crinza or better reserva better than Rioja by the glass. Plenty of good Rioja around all along the Camino but again jump for the higher price and avoid the plonk, Rioja reserva in summertime will annihilate you being heavy to the taste and the alcohol. A good bar Navarra is cheaper than the Rioja by the glass and often better tasting. The Spanish tend to drink red wine with almost everything often also obscuring the taste of many dishes, be brave and try the whites there are some wonderful surprises. Some of the Basque wines are amazing but many are very heavy and not to my taste. Try everything! Look through the bottles displayed often right on the bar, maybe in an ice bucket (30 degrees blistering heat outside demands that even reds be somewhat chilled), try new and unknown wines whenever and wherever you can, there are treasures awaiting.
A last word, six or seven people eating together in an albergue will requiire at least two bottles of wine. All to often the cheaper wines on the grocery shelves are chosen in order to save expense and then people are surprised by thin vinegar and often say they don't like Spanish wine. You get what you pay for so try always to spring for the good stuff!

 

[scruffy1]

PS I have already received a quick comment on my post by PM. Albariño at it's best is a ranking world class wine, light, very aromatic, fruity and thus very expensive. Less expensive Albariño can be found but it is only a shadow of the good stuff. You would and should hesitate before purchasing a 2E bottle of Bordeaux or an Italian Barolo but you have no problem paying 2E for a Rioja or something unknown? Time to re-think.

 

[Kanga]

Small terracotta bowls or tumblers are frequently used to serve house wine - historically glass was more expensive and in some regions terracotta easily obtainable. It does a good job of keeping wine at a cool temperature. I always think of pulpo being served on wooden platters alongside Ribeiro served in terracotta - and I can't decide whether I prefer Albariño or Ribera (edited for spelling!) - both wonderful in their different ways. But I don't agree with you @scruffy1 - I've had some excellent wine served by the glass in bars for very little. Some of the best wine I've had is produced in small quantities and only available locally in the nearby bars and restaurants.

 

[Wokabaut_Meri]

We were really taken with the Spanish wines, especially the Riojas and were thrilled when our local adult education association offered a Spanish wine appreciation course

I'm with @Kanga and also had some excellent local wines served by the glass.

We spent a few days in Bordeaux either side of our Camino and I have to confess that I much preferred the Spanish reds to those of the Bordeaux region a personal preference and no judgement of the wines

 

[Wokabaut_Meri]

What do they call the beer that seems to be mixed with lemonade?

that would be cerveza con limón - very refreshing at the end of a day's walking

 

[mspath]

that would be cerveza con limón - very refreshing at the end of a day's walking

This drink is similar to shandy in Britain and panaché in France. All three are very pleasant!

 

[scruffy1]

Small terracotta bowls or tumblers are frequently used to serve house wine - historically glass was more expensive and in some regions terracotta easily obtainable. It does a good job of keeping wine at a cool temperature. I always think of pulpo being served on wooden platters alongside Ribeiro served in terracotta - and I can't decide whether I prefer Albariño or Ribeiro - both wonderful in their different ways. But I don't agree with you @scruffy1 - I've had some excellent wine served by the glass in bars for very little. Some of the best wine I've had is produced in small quantities and only available locally in the nearby bars and restaurants.

You are quite correct of course -provided you pronounce the magic words
"Su mejor rioja por favor"!

 

[HeidiL]

?Se vende por vaso un vino de la zona? ?Que puede recomendarme?

Very frequently I've found that the house wine is a cheap Rioja, NOT a local wine at all. And sometimes the local wine is only sold in whole bottles, and that's definitely too much for me when I'm walking alone...

 

[JasonHayes]

I'm not an expert on the quality of wine and food but I am an expert on how I felt consuming these and have enjoyed some memorable lunches and evenings on bland simple food and drink at the right locations, company and with feeling "in the moment" than I have with some more elaborate events. I always remember how I felt rather that what it tasted like unless I consumed too much which can be regrettable.
Cheers

 

[amancio]

the Camino is full of different wine styles and denominations, here are a few out of the top of my head:

CAMINO FRANCÉS (East to West)

In Navarra, hearty reds and some very interesting white chardonnays

La Rioja: very little to say here, just avoid industrial production cheap wines, you should get a decent drinkable Rioja for 4 or 5 euro a bottle; a classic

Ribera del Duero, this is Burgos area, rich, intense, fruity reds, more expensive than Riojas, though. A must

Tierra de León offers some earthy reds from Onzoniego and a surprising Rosé with a grape varietal known as PRieto Picudo, excellent value, very easy to find in any bar (before entering Bierzo).

Rueda is a bit further down South but has some well balanced Verdejo whites, prices range wildly across wineries, though

Bierzo... Bierzo is a gorgeous region, the red Mencias have some "husky" touch on your throat, very fresh wines. The white Godello wines, from nearby Ribeira Sacra, are truly beautiful, rich, mineral white wines

Galicia has the king of whites, Albariño, but also interesting wines from Ribeiro, a bit similar to those of Bierzo. Ribeiro wines are often served in clay bowls


The above is only for the francés, it is worth it to try all different denominations in the right places, so called "local" cheap plonks may be a pleasant surprice, but are more than often just about ok.

Con pan y vino, se hace corte el Camino, as we say in Spain: bread and wine make the way shorter.

 

[Mark Lee]

I don't think I had a bad glass of wine ever on the Camino....

 

[mylifeonvacation]

Ah, wine! One of my favorite topics!! In Galicia, the ceramic wine bowl is called a "cunca", and the beer with lemon soda called a "clara", or "clara con limón". I agree with a comment above that when asking for a glass of wine and you want something local, that you specify that you are wanting glass of wine "de la zona" (from the area).

 

[kaixo]

Two choices for the basque region:

Txakoli - a young, fruity, dry, slightly sparkly white wine. Delicious and the presentation...fantastic, poured from great heights. On the Norte you walk thru the txakoli vineyards and any bar will carry it. A special pour spout is used, but you can easily make one from a cork.

Sidra - a fermented, non carbonated, tart apple juice available January to May right out of the barrel. Also poured high into the glass. Visit a sideria for a unique eating and sidra tasting experience.

 

[oursonpolaire]

What Amancio says about Bierzo (Bierzo... Bierzo is a gorgeous region, the red Mencias have some "husky" touch on your throat, very fresh wines. The white Godello wines, from nearby Ribeira Sacra, are truly beautiful, rich, mineral white wines). I always ask for a vino de pais, si es bueno, suggesting that I want something local, and have often had some extraordinarily good reds. On the Castellano-Aragones in September, I kept hydrated on a terribly hot day with a grape or two from the Borsao vineyard, so have felt morally obliged to buy it since.

The Primitivo and the Asturian stretch of the del Norte are made doubly interesting by the occasional drink of sidra natural, often served with little humanoid siphon machines. But while refreshing, it is deceptively strong, and a second bottle is usually inadvisable.

 

[KinkyOne]

Bierzo... Bierzo is a gorgeous region, the red Mencias have some "husky" touch on your throat, very fresh wines. The white Godello wines, from nearby Ribeira Sacra, are truly beautiful, rich, mineral white wines

Galicia has the king of whites, Albariño,

My favourites!
Thanks for nice short overview.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

"My Bodega in Spain..." I could write a book. Maybe I ought to!

 

[SYates]

One insider tip: In shops look out for wine bottles with no big label, just a tiny stripe of paper. That is overproduction of a local vineyard that can't be sold with the official label (hector litre restrictions per acre, or so) but is the same quality. Normally costs 1-3 Euro/bottle without the big label when the labeled bottle sells for 2-3times that price - it is always excellent and local.

Buen Camino, SY

 

[KinkyOne]

"My Bodega in Spain..." I could write a book. Maybe I ought to!

Maybe you really should, Reb. Plenty of Bodegas ("hobit houses", "man caves" etc.) even in Moratinos

 

[julia-t]

Oh, Txacoli - absolutely delicious, though hard to find after Logrono. I enjoyed the white wines from the Rueda region - and can often buy them here in the UK. Verdejo grape.

In a backstreet bar in Itera de la Vega, I asked about white wine, and the barman insisted I have his 'especial' local wine, and then brought me a dish of his own grapes. A moment of finding treasure on the Camino. I have no idea what it was though. But I enjoyed it, drank several glasses during a warm afternoon, and it only cost .70 eurocents a glass.

 

[Tincatinker]

"My Bodega in Spain..." I could write a book. Maybe I ought to!

Oh please do Reb, but please don't tell anyone about the Toro or it will go the same way as Bierzo and my wine-merchant will start looking smug again (whoops).

Please, please Pilgrims, stick to Rioja, there's loads of it and it's at bargain prices and the camarero will always smile if you order Rioja and you'll get nice wine so you won't have to worry and yes Albarino is very nice as is Txacoli and Godello but you don't want to be bothering with all that funny pronunciation and stuff you've never heard of. Avoid Ribera del Duero at all costs - it may spoil your taste for Rioja for ever. Hospitalero/as who offer you tastes or, worse still, bottles of their own plonk are obviously just trying to foist the unspeakable on the unknowing. In fact its probably best if you stick to Coca-cola because as everyone knows we can trust huge global corporations to take care of us while local producers may have alternative motives...

Oh, and as for the sidra, remember what an apple did for Adam...

 

[jefferyonthecamino]

spain does not typically go by grape variety but by regions.

so when you ask for a Rioja you are most likely drinking a Tempranillo or a Garnacha, or a mix of these. Bierzos or Ribeira Sacras (both on the Camino Francés) go for Mencía. But once again, you do not usually ask for a glass of the grape variety but the region, or in other words, you would sound daft if you asked for a Tempranillo.

one of the exceptions to the above if the Albariño, which we tend to ask for and not a Rías Baixas (something like 90% of the Rías Baixas production is with albariño grapes). Likewise, Ribeiro, Galicia's second best, can also be made with Albariño grapes, but most likely Treixadura, or even Godello. And if you cannot find one of the Galician or Bierzo whites, then your safest bet in Spain is to ask for a Rueda, made with the wondeful Verdejo grape.

There's much more. Navarra, for example may be the only place in Spain that has developed a passion for rosé wines; basque txacoli (type of wine but not region nor grape) in my opinion are overrated and expensive. Valdepeñas (region south of madrid) usually gets bad press, but I have had some awesome dinners with them. the Penedés (region) in cataluña is another safe bet, at least with the whites. etc...

cheers/salud!

p.s. beer and lemon is called a clara con limón; if you just ask for a clara, you will get beer and a sprite-like mix (lemonade if you are british); and wine and the sprite-like mix is called tinto de verano (not sangría), a life saver in the summer. on that note, we never ask for a sangría at bars or restaurants, very odd.

 

[naplesdon]

Tincatinker, I always love your subtle humor. You know even the wine that Ovidio supplies at San Anton is top shelf. I just like to enjoy a bottle or two (each day) from each region as walk towards Santiago. IMHO having a Rioja in Santiago would be a sacrilege.
BTW the co-op box wine we had in Moratinos during the Pig Dig was superior to anything one can buy in a bottle the USA.

 

[Calimocho]

p.s. beer and lemon is called a clara con limón; if you just ask for a clara, you will get beer and a sprite-like mix (lemonade if you are british); and wine and the sprite-like mix is called tinto de verano (not sangría), a life saver in the summer. on that note, we never ask for a sangría at bars or restaurants, very odd.[/QUOTE]

I think one time when I was able to order it, the beer was on tap and the bartender could either pour beer by itself or beer with a lemon flavor. It was refreshing, but seemed like it had a sugary lemonade or sprite-like drink with it. I was hoping for something a little more like the Mexican chelada, which has lemon juice but also (not really my preference) sometimes has tomato and pepper or even clam juice (!) mixed in. I would prefer just beer with fresh lemon juice or even just lemon slices. Would this be a clara con limon?

 

[Calimocho]

Two choices for the basque region:

Txakoli - a young, fruity, dry, slightly sparkly white wine. Delicious and the presentation...fantastic, poured from great heights. On the Norte you walk thru the txakoli vineyards and any bar will carry it. A special pour spout is used, but you can easily make one from a cork.

Sidra - a fermented, non carbonated, tart apple juice available January to May right out of the barrel. Also poured high into the glass. Visit a sideria for a unique eating and sidra tasting experience.

Thanks for this clarification! I think I was looking for Txakoli - I believe I had it once in Barcelona - and received Sidra instead. I was disappointed! Can you help me with the pronunciation of Txakoli, so I can order it sometime?

 

[Calimocho]

Thanks, everyone, for all of the excellent replies. This really helps and I'm looking forward to trying these wines before and during my next Camino. Hopefully, I won't have to resort to ordering my namesake - Calimocho! Has anyone ever tried this stuff? I did --- once.

 

[Mark Lee]

One insider tip: In shops look out for wine bottles with no big label, just a tiny stripe of paper. That is overproduction of a local vineyard that can't be sold with the official label (hector litre restrictions per acre, or so) but is the same quality. Normally costs 1-3 Euro/bottle without the big label when the labeled bottle sells for 2-3times that price - it is always excellent and local.

Buen Camino, SY

Those were my favorites.
Two or three bucks for a bottle of local Spanish red? Oh yeah, can't beat that with a stick.

 

[GettingThere]

I would prefer just beer with fresh lemon juice or even just lemon slices. Would this be a clara con limon?

No, that's usually beer with a commercial lemonade added - I often saw Kas Limon used (still sugary but a sharper taste than Sprite - much nicer!)

 

[Tincatinker]

the co-op box wine we had in Moratinos during the Pig Dig was superior to anything one can buy in a bottle the USA.

Don, thanks, and for your work in the Ditch this year. I would have loved to have been there and pressed a hand with you and with SY and with big boy James and every other Pig in the Ditch.
Maybe next year inshallah - if the Old Guys will let us - if the luck holds; and meanwhile go with the good amigo .

 

[kaixo]

Check out this website for the pronunciation of Txakoli.
Of the three, I like javsanz best.
https://forvo.com/word/txakoli/#eu

Not a fan of Calimocho (or Kalimotxo in Euskara), but boy oh boy is it consumed in mass quantities!

 

[julia-t]

Thanks for this clarification! I think I was looking for Txakoli - I believe I had it once in Barcelona - and received Sidra instead. I was disappointed! Can you help me with the pronunciation of Txakoli, so I can order it sometime?

I get by saying something like CHACK-OLLY, but said quite quickly with more emphasis on the first syllable. I seem to be understood, but I am happy to be corrected by those with superior knowledge.

 

[alexwalker]

I once walked with three old pleasant and friendly Spanish brothers on the VdlP for a few days. They told me: Drink whatever red wine you like in Spain, as long as it is a Rioja...

 

[J Willhaus]

Thanks for this clarification! I think I was looking for Txakoli - I believe I had it once in Barcelona - and received Sidra instead. I was disappointed! Can you help me with the pronunciation of Txakoli, so I can order it sometime?

Kind of like chocolate "Choco-lee" is how they say it here in the Basque district in Boise. (Lots of Basque ancestors here and we even have a Basque studies major at the university...)

 

[jefferyonthecamino]

p.s. beer and lemon is called a clara con limón; if you just ask for a clara, you will get beer and a sprite-like mix (lemonade if you are british); and wine and the sprite-like mix is called tinto de verano (not sangría), a life saver in the summer. on that note, we never ask for a sangría at bars or restaurants, very odd.

I think one time when I was able to order it, the beer was on tap and the bartender could either pour beer by itself or beer with a lemon flavor. It was refreshing, but seemed like it had a sugary lemonade or sprite-like drink with it. I was hoping for something a little more like the Mexican chelada, which has lemon juice but also (not really my preference) sometimes has tomato and pepper or even clam juice (!) mixed in. I would prefer just beer with fresh lemon juice or even just lemon slices. Would this be a clara con limon?[/QUOTE]

nope, clara con limón is beer with a lemon flavoured fizzy drink/soft drink. spaniards only drink lemonade american style if spiked. you will definitely get some odd looks if you ask them to squeeze a lemon into your beer we do not know what a chelada is, nor anything mexican really, but sounds interesting all the same.

 

[jefferyonthecamino]

Thanks, everyone, for all of the excellent replies. This really helps and I'm looking forward to trying these wines before and during my next Camino. Hopefully, I won't have to resort to ordering my namesake - Calimocho! Has anyone ever tried this stuff? I did --- once.

calimocho takes me back to my teen years, those were the days

 

[Rebekah Scott]

One thing we all must remember about Spanish wine is that we all likely drank it after a long day's walk out in the fresh air, surrounded by good people and good vibes. Those elements work similar magic on local cheeses, meats, and liquors.
This is why these things don't always travel well, and they're never quite the same when you have them at home.
So much of the goodness of the good wine is really Camino magic!

 

[Kanga]

Sangria (translation: blood) according to how my parents made it in the 1960s - 50% freshly squeezed orange juice and 50% red wine. Plus ice. Very simple, very refreshing (and hence alcoholic) and it looks exactly like blood. Nothing like the concoctions I see in large jugs today, with brandy and lemonade and all kinds of other stuff added.

 

[JasonHayes]

One thing we all must remember about Spanish wine is that we all likely drank it after a long day's walk out in the fresh air, surrounded by good people and good vibes. Those elements work similar magic on local cheeses, meats, and liquors.
This is why these things don't always travel well, and they're never quite the same when you have them at home.
So much of the goodness of the good wine is really Camino magic!

It is so hard to replicate the joy and the feeling of the Camino. I have been trying for 17 years unsuccessfully.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

The one thing I did like about walking the Portuguese was discovering how well beer and red vermouth go together. Saw an advert for it on a cafe counter one morning and had to ask. They even sell mini bottles of vermouth just for that purpose. With a quality, herby beer it is delicious. I had the chef at therestaurant Tui Y Yo make it for me and he knew what I was asking for. Fuether in.and, not so much but they bringyou the beer, thevermouth and you mix.

Also excellent is the vermud solera, vermud aged in casks by the cafe proprietor, not the industrial stuf from grocery stores.

 

[amancio]

Thanks for this clarification! I think I was looking for Txakoli - I believe I had it once in Barcelona - and received Sidra instead. I was disappointed! Can you help me with the pronunciation of Txakoli, so I can order it sometime?

you would say something like

chah-koh-leeh

gorgeous wine if you find a nice one, but it is not the cheapest of drinks. Basque cider straight from a huge cask is superior to that one in Asturias, in my opinion.

Ah, we could be discussing this for hours and hours!

 

[J Willhaus]

One thing we all must remember about Spanish wine is that we all likely drank it after a long day's walk out in the fresh air, surrounded by good people and good vibes. Those elements work similar magic on local cheeses, meats, and liquors.
This is why these things don't always travel well, and they're never quite the same when you have them at home.
So much of the goodness of the good wine is really Camino magic!

I have learned at our wine club that wine should evoke a memory. When you have wine in a memorable setting such as on the Camino. You will probably remember it as a specific experience, hence even common, every day wine will taste better than a higher value wine might in a less meaningful setting. The friends you are enjoying the meal with and the ambience of the Camino make the memory of the wine taste better than it might back home for dinner after work.

 

[amancio]

One insider tip: In shops look out for wine bottles with no big label, just a tiny stripe of paper. That is overproduction of a local vineyard that can't be sold with the official label (hector litre restrictions per acre, or so) but is the same quality. Normally costs 1-3 Euro/bottle without the big label when the labeled bottle sells for 2-3times that price - it is always excellent and local.

Buen Camino, SY

I am not sure about this "unlabeled" bottles that go around, I never tasted one anywhere near decent, this trick is often used a an urban legend to bring plonk into the market, so you want to be careful.

in any case, as Rebekah says above, the main thing is the "vibes" around the wine after a long day's walk and chatting with fellow pilgrims!

 

[KinkyOne]

spain does not typically go by grape variety but by regions.

Coming from a vineyards and wine country (although small in every way) I was very surprised by this "region" denomination rather than "grape type" in Spain. Usually we order chardonnay, tokaj, merlot etc. whereas in Spain it's Duero, Rioja and so on. But I like Spanish wines much more than French or Italian for example.
Thanks for this short explanation, Jeffrey!

 

[Rebekah Scott]

the denomination things are tricky, because lots of D.O.'s use the same grape (ie Mencia or Tempranillo or Godello or even ALbarino) and grow and make the wine all over the place. Thus you can get "Albarin," which is Albarino grapes, but grown and made in Tierras de Leon; or Mencia made into workmanlike Bierzo or Valdeorras or spectacular Ribera Sacra red wine... The big red wine from Ribera del Duero is superb, and it uses grapes very much like those in Rioja, but it's VERY mellow and full-bodied, better IMHO than even very good Rioja wine. And right next door, on the same river even, in Toro they use those same kinds of grapes to make their own D.O. wine "Tinto del Toro" that will blow your socks off.
... and then there are the white wines.
Don't get me started.

 

[KinkyOne]

The one thing I did like about walking the Portuguese was discovering how well beer and red vermouth go together. Saw an advert for it on a cafe counter one morning and had to ask. They even sell mini bottles of vermouth just for that purpose. With a quality, herby beer it is delicious. I had the chef at therestaurant Tui Y Yo make it for me and he knew what I was asking for. Fuether in.and, not so much but they bringyou the beer, thevermouth and you mix.

Also excellent is the vermud solera, vermud aged in casks by the cafe proprietor, not the industrial stuf from grocery stores.

Although a beer drinker in it's pure form I have to try this. Thanks for the tip, Anemone!

 

[KinkyOne]

And right next door, on the same river even, in Toro they use those same kinds of grapes to make their own D.O. wine "Tinto del Toro" that will blow your socks off.

Indeed one of the best wines I tasted in Spain. Even more if you drink it on this street

 

[tomnorth]

My absolute favorite wine from the Camino is the red wine from the Bierzo region made from the mencia grape. I had never had this wine before and fell in love with it on the Camino.

 

[naplesdon]

Indeed one of the best wines I tasted in Spain. Even more if you drink it on this street

View attachment 30771

Ah, Estella even lovelier on market day.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Ah, Estella even lovelier on market day.

Erm... I think that's beautiful downtown Toro!

 

[Tincatinker]

Reb, Reb, you're not paying attention. Toro does not exist, there is no such place as 'Toro', there is no wine called 'Tinto del Toro', 'this is not the boy you are looking for.....'

 

[KinkyOne]

Reb, Reb, you're not paying attention. Toro does not exist, there is no such place as 'Toro', there is no wine called 'Tinto del Toro', 'this is not the boy you are looking for.....'

Therefore I am NOT

 

[Deleted member 3000]

the red wine from the Bierzo region made from the mencia grape.

Staying in Cacabelos one trip, I ordered "vino tinto" "Mencia" in a bar. The response was "that is the only thing we have."

A Spanish pilgrim told me walking into town that the Mencia vines in the area are up to 400 years old. He seemed to know what he was talking about.

 

[oursonpolaire]

On my first Camino, I was walking into Villafranca and was chatting in my horrific Castilian with some vineyard workers, who told me that they were harvesting Mencia grapes. They gave me a handful to munch on and, over the years, I have been seeking out bottles of Mencia for my table. At about a dozen bottles a year for the past 12 years, at about $20 a bottle, I think that they have well recouped their investment of a handful of grapes.

Having devoured many many grapes while walking through the vineyards south of Borja in an attempt to stay hydrated, I felt morally obliged to buy a bottle of 2013 Alto Moncayo Veraton (LCBO 817816 -- 100% garnacha) last night even though it was rather pricey.

 

[Saint Mike II]

Sangria (translation: blood) according to how my parents made it in the 1960s - 50% freshly squeezed orange juice and 50% red wine. Plus ice. Very simple, very refreshing (and hence alcoholic) and it looks exactly like blood. Nothing like the concoctions I see in large jugs today, with brandy and lemonade and all kinds of other stuff added.

Jill - your parents version sounds more like the one I was introduced to in Barcelona more than 40 years ago. Hopefully it will be the same when I finally return to that Med City!

 

[Kanga]

The Winemaker by Noah Gordon - a great page-turning story based on the development of a Spanish vineyard. Lots of incidental information included.

 

[peregrina2000]

Erm... I think that's beautiful downtown Toro!

Sorry to disagree with my good friend but this definitely Estella. (unless there is some veiled message I am missing here!)

Not wanting to fan the flames of dissension, but I will weigh in on the side of Rebekah. I think this is Toro.
It sure looks like the colegiata at the end of the street. Oh, and the wine from Toro.......

 

[Saint Mike II]

Not wanting to fan the flames of dissension, but I will weigh in on the side of Rebekah. I think this is Toro.
It sure looks like the colegiata at the end of the street. Oh, and the wine from Toro.......

Now I have not been to Toro - but a search on Google Earth comes up with the multi-sided church/building which we see the first photo. But I am happy to be corrected.

 

[KariC]

One insider tip: In shops look out for wine bottles with no big label, just a tiny stripe of paper. That is overproduction of a local vineyard that can't be sold with the official label (hector litre restrictions per acre, or so) but is the same quality. Normally costs 1-3 Euro/bottle without the big label when the labeled bottle sells for 2-3times that price - it is always excellent and local.

Buen Camino, SY

One of the things I enjoyed about wine on the camino was that many of the places grew/bottle their own, so there isn't a label. (I also loved the way the farmers plant grapes around their other fields, so so many of the paths are lined by a small arbor) I liked just ordering "wine" and taking what I got - usually delightful!

 

[La Rubia]

Shortly before I left on my first Camino, I went to a Spanish wine tasting at a local shop. While I was chatting with one of the reps, I told him I was about to leave for Spain, and he got all excited, and told me I was going to walk through the very vineyards that one of his wines came from. I bought all four bottles he had of it, of course, and this had 1/4 of all this particular Godello bottling that came into the States. And my day walking through the vineyards of Bierzo was indeed magical... It was May, and the cherry trees were in full fruit and I was in heaven.

 

[john07989]

Two choices for the basque region:

Txakoli - a young, fruity, dry, slightly sparkly white wine. Delicious and the presentation...fantastic, poured from great heights. On the Norte you walk thru the txakoli vineyards and any bar will carry it. A special pour spout is used, but you can easily make one from a cork.

Sidra - a fermented, non carbonated, tart apple juice available January to May right out of the barrel. Also poured high into the glass. Visit a sideria for a unique eating and sidra tasting experience.

Do you think we could have some pronunciation tips please

 

[kaixo]

For your listening pleasure...

https://forvo.com/word/txakoli/#eu

https://forvo.com/word/sidra/#es

 

[LydiaF1963]

Haven't read the entire thread, but I will vouch for the wonderful Tintos de Toro but find them a little heavy in warm weather. My year round preference is for the crisp/tart rosados from Cigales and Navarra. A little story...we live in Valladolid and as mentioned are accustomed to ordering Ribera. On a day trip to Toro we again ordered Ribera only to be told, "¡Estamos en Zamora, tenemos Tinto de Toro aqui!"

 

[donalomahony]

Enjoyed this in Mansilla de las Mulas. €10.

 

[Jacobus]

Staying in Cacabelos one trip, I ordered "vino tinto" "Mencia" in a bar. The response was "that is the only thing we have."

A Spanish pilgrim told me walking into town that the Mencia vines in the area are up to 400 years old. He seemed to know what he was talking about.

Good morning from frosty
The Mencia grape referred to in the Bierzo region was originally brought to the area by French immigrants thus the name Villa franca. The original grapes were from the Bordeaux and were cabernet franc. Over hundreds of years in the local terroir the grapes morphed into what is now the Mencia grape. There are some information signposts along the path between Cacabelos and Villafranca put up by one of the wineries describing the history in a little more detail. The botega is Casa de Burbia I think but I may have it wrong.
The iconic white house on the hilltop prior to entering Villafranca is situated in a mencia vineyard.
"In vinum veritas est" or something like that!
A votre santé
Jim

 

[Helen Nilsson]

that would be cerveza con limón - very refreshing at the end of a day's walking

In Andalucia you would ask for una clara. Suppose it's the same all over Spain.

 

[Verity]

vino, calemare, padron chile

• Calimocho
• Dec 14, 2016
• 4

white wine

• Calimocho
• Dec 14, 2016
• 2

While walking a section of the Camino from Los Arcos to Burgos, I not only enjoyed walking through vineyards, but sampling the local wines at the end of the day. I was sorry that I didn't know a little more about the varieties, though, so that I would know what to order if I wanted to try a wine that was produced in that region. Now that I'm back home, I have a year to do my "research", but I thought some of you might have some insight concerning the wine - and also beer - of Spain. Are there any interesting wines that you tried along the way? Is there any particular way to order them - similar to the way you ask for a caña when you want a small glass of draft beer? What do they call the beer that seems to be mixed with lemonade? I was also intrigued by the bowl-like glass in which my white wine was served in Logroño. Is this glass used for only a certain variety?

Beer and gaseosa(similar to lemonade) makes a shandy called una clara. For wine it is una copa de vino tinto o blanco. Spain produces mostly red wines, so red should generally be of a better, more reliable quality than white wine.

 

[mylifeonvacation]

Spain produces mostly red wines, so red should generally be of a better, more reliable quality than white wine.

Until you get to Galicia, then you are in the land of Albariño, Godello, and Treixadura, all fabulous white wines!
Enjoy!

 

[JillGat]

?Se vende por vaso un vino de la zona? ?Que puede recomendarme?

Very frequently I've found that the house wine is a cheap Rioja, NOT a local wine at all. And sometimes the local wine is only sold in whole bottles, and that's definitely too much for me when I'm walking alone...

In Spain, una copa de vino.

 

[Stivandrer]

?Se vende por vaso un vino de la zona? ?Que puede recomendarme?

Very frequently I've found that the house wine is a cheap Rioja, NOT a local wine at all. And sometimes the local wine is only sold in whole bottles, and that's definitely too much for me when I'm walking alone...

well a whole bottle of the local wine is dead cheap in the supermarket and is easily drained by others in the Albergue if you cannot drink it all by yourself.
Local wine with no banderolas can be a pleasant surprise...

 

[KariC]

Small terracotta bowls or tumblers are frequently used to serve house wine - historically glass was more expensive and in some regions terracotta easily obtainable. It does a good job of keeping wine at a cool temperature. I always think of pulpo being served on wooden platters alongside Ribeiro served in terracotta - and I can't decide whether I prefer Albariño or Ribera (edited for spelling!) - both wonderful in their different ways. But I don't agree with you @scruffy1 - I've had some excellent wine served by the glass in bars for very little. Some of the best wine I've had is produced in small quantities and only available locally in the nearby bars and restaurants.

I actually enjoyed just ordering "un vino" and seeing what I got - never disappointed! And one of the coolest things in hiking the Portugues was not only walking alongside the stunning arbors lining the fields, but tasting the wines - usually vinho verde - that were made by the people who grow them. I even learned that there's such a thing as red vinho verde! The verde refers to the age, not the grape color. Vinho verde branco is of course more common - I've never seen red vinho verde in the US.

 

[KinkyOne]

On less walked Caminos I always order "vino da casa" (de casa?) and I was never disappointed. Maybe sometimes a bit too warm for my taste but otherwise got good and not too pretentious wines. Price? Bargain.

 

[Pelegrin]

On less walked Caminos I always order "vino da casa" (de casa?) and I was never disappointed. Maybe sometimes a bit too warm for my taste but otherwise got good and not too pretentious wines. Price? Bargain.

Viño da casa (Spanish Vino de la casa)

 

[josephmcclain]

My absolute favorite wine from the Camino is the red wine from the Bierzo region made from the mencia grape. I had never had this wine before and fell in love with it on the Camino.

Agree and I cannot find Bierzo wines in Mexico. Going back to Spain tomorrow!!

 

[JillGat]

"My Bodega in Spain..." I could write a book. Maybe I ought to!

I might call on you to help me with "research" for my article!

 

[TravellingMan22]

Ah, wine! One of my favorite topics!! In Galicia, the ceramic wine bowl is called a "cunca", and the beer with lemon soda called a "clara", or "clara con limón". I agree with a comment above that when asking for a glass of wine and you want something local, that you specify that you are wanting glass of wine "de la zona" (from the area).

Probably reasonable to say I have drunk a fair amount of wine in Galicia, but have never come across a ‘Cunca’ before until today. My partner went into a bar in to Ourense, was asked if she wanted ‘house wine’, said yes, and emerged with a coupe of glasses of wine in ‘cuncas’ filled to the brim! Quite a balancing act to not spill! I had to drink some while she held it before we put down on our slopey table! My ‘bought today’ new white trail runners, are still white!!

Cunca, something else than a cup of wine

A Trip to the World of Wine and More...Un viaje al mundo del vino

www.isaacdewine.com

 

[Camino Chrissy]

My ‘bought today’ new white trail runners, are still white!!

If you will be walking the Camino in any rain or mud, your white shoes will be very dirty soon enough! I avoid white "like the plague" for my Camino trail runners.

 

[TravellingMan22]

If you will be walking the Camino in any rain or mud, your white shoes will be very dirty soon enough! I avoid white "like the plague" for my Camino trail runners.

Yes indeed. These won’t be seeing any Camino action (I was due to be doing Ingles next week but have had to postpone as need to be back in London). So walking to Coruna (here on vacation) bus and train station to get to a lot of different places in Galicia, is the only action they will see.

That said I walked Caminha to SDC a couple of weeks ago in pure white trail runners. They weren’t bought for that reason (it was a last min decision to walk) but I have a lot of foot issues and they were all I could wear! They are now black and threw them in bin today

I also bought a pair of very jazzy Hokas (none white) which make me look like a rap star!

 

[henrythedog]

In Spain, una copa de vino.

Si! Una copa is a glass with a stem.

 

[ginniek]

This drink is similar to shandy in Britain and panaché in France. All three are very pleasant!

And Chelada in Mexico, usually with lime because limes are plentiful and inexpensive there. Very refreshing. Michelada is quite different because the drink has a sort of tomato base.