Hi Stephen: We started on the coast in Porto, but only stuck with it for two days, up to Esposende. Perhaps because we've lived by the California coast for over 40 years, we actually found the coastal route pretty monotonous, and largely devoid of other pilgrims, so we took a local bus inland to Barcelos, and then followed the central route all the way to Santiago. Thus, we never made it along the coast to Baiona or Vigo. Starting in Redondela, where you'll join the central Camino, the walking is pretty easy -- pleasantly scenic, with gently rolling hills. Plenty of companionship, mostly northern Europeans. We stayed in private rooms in albergues, or pensiones, and typically booked a day ahead, and it was never a problem getting a room. (I'd book ahead in Santiago, however, as soon as you figure out when you're going to arrive there). One place I particularly liked was Vila San Clemente in Tui (first town in Spain). Both dorm and private rooms, with a lovely garden out back. Right on the camino, as you leave Tui. 35 euros for a double. If possible, leave yourself some time to wander around Pontevedra, a lovely largish city. We also had a good meal at El Muino in Caldas de Reis -- lively place right on the river. In Padon, we enjoyed seeing the actual padron -- the mooring to which the boat carrying James' headless body back to Spain was supposedly docked. In Santiago itself, a great place to stay is San Martin Pinario in the Seminario Mayor, right across from the cathedral. Beautiful old monastery re-purposed as a luxury hotel. Special pilgrim rate of 40 euros, if you book with them direct by e-mail (reservas@sanmartinpinario.eu) or phone - 34 981 56 02 82. They also have good 10 euro pilgrim meals. Another good pilgrim meal is at Tarawa, on the same street as the pilgrim office. Pilgrim office is always a wait to get your compostela. We found best time is very late afternoon or early evening. In Santiago, besides enjoying the cathedral, we really liked the Museum of Pilgrimage, which had interesting historical information, not always flattering to the church. If you're interested, I could also e-mail you the list of other places we stayed. They were all fine, but nothing exceptional. Finally, if you're making reservations in advance, I've found it better to call places rather than relying totally on booking.com. A lot of the smaller pensiones don't list on booking.com, and often places that are listed as sold out on booking.com really aren't. Portugal is better than Spain for finding people who speak English, but if you learn only one phrase in Portuguese -- Do you have a room (bed) available for tomorrow night? -- you'll muck through.
Bom caminho!
. You see the ocean at your left as long as you walk northwards. Now and then you can walk some kms off the coastline .from Baiona to Vigo you can choose to walk into the hills (yellow waymarkers) or follow the coast (green waymarkers-not original but you'll arrive in Vigo
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