Tales of Being the Only Pilgrim in the Albergue

[BiggBlue]

Because I had to abandon my first Camino after 22 days because of shin splints, I returned the following year in late March to complete my journey.

Being early in the season, I often found myself as the only occupant of an Albergue. This ranged from feeling like the king of the castle, with the entire building to myself, a fully equipped kitchen, my pick of the beds, and luxurious, unhurried showers, to feeling like a contestant in a reality show set in a haunted building. There were times when I experienced exceptionally cold spots, a spooky sense and the odd very strange noises at one o'clock in the morning.

I’m sure many pilgrims have had similar experiences. It’s not unique. But given the choice of being alone in an Albergue or being the last person to arrive when it’s packed, I’d still choose the solitude.

However, the only thing I found more uncomfortable than being the sole resident was when I expected to be alone, only to have a second pilgrim arrive; if it was a fellow male, it was no problem; however, as a 64-year-old man, if it was a woman. I would worry about her potential natural discomfort at sharing a dormitory with a strange man, even if he was a genuine pilgrim. Having five sisters, I’ve heard countless stories about situations where they felt uneasy around men. I am acutely aware of not wanting to be a source of discomfort or worry for anyone. I would always try to speak in a friendly tone, hoping to reassure them. They chose not to stay on a few occasions, which I completely understood but felt terrible about.

There are countless stories from my Caminos, but one of my most memorable experiences happened in Lugo. I was the only person in the Albergue, a large dormitory with 20 beds. When I returned at 9:15 PM, the staff member had left the building. I read for a while and, around 10 PM, decided to go to bed. I quickly discovered I couldn’t find the light switch. No matter how much I searched, I couldn’t locate it, and the room remained brightly lit. At 10:10 PM, I heard a noise at the door. The staff member who was not staying at the Albergue returned and, fortunately, showed me the switch, hidden in a recessed area outside the room. (Which I would never have found) The room was pitch black once the lights were off, and I struggled to find my way back to bed.

As I lay there, I listened to the sounds of the night. In the morning, I woke up early and made my exit. As my father would say, “It was character-building.”

 

[Bradypus]

I do most of my Camino walking in winter and often on less-travelled routes. Quite often I find I have the albergue to myself. I've always considered it a luxury and I can't recall ever feeling any anxiety about it. My favourite experience was on the Via Francigena where I ended up having an entire medieval castle to myself when the manager handed me the keys at 6pm and told me where to leave them in the morning. The thunder and lightning alarm call at about 7am the next morning just added to the drama!

 

[JabbaPapa]

I have frequently been the only pilgrim -- and tell the truth, if it's the state of affairs over several days in a row, it does get boring, even IF you are a psychological loner.

When a second pilgrim turns up, it's extremely variable, I've found, from the unpredictable dynamic of two strangers meeting.

It can range between two people parked in the most opposite corners possible and keeping conversation down to the bare minimum of hello, buen camino, goodbye, and almost nothing else ; and some immediate warm affinity and sharing food and wine and stories and experiences.

Two stories.

On my 2005, on the Arles Way, in a tiny village free Refugio (calling it a Gîte would be very exaggerated) a peregrina started getting in my face about how I was a guy and bla-bla-bla which mystified me -- until it turned out that she was falsely supposing that I would expect her to do the cooking, which I most certainly didn't, and after it emerged that she wanted to do the washing-up after I did the cooking, which I definitely preferred too, everything became copacetic and we had a great evening.

Then almost the last time it happened this year, in a tiny actual Refuge (a bare-bones shelter) between SJPP and Saint-Palais, where one virtually always sleeps alone (in the cold), on my Way home a pilgrim I had met in Galicia and who was walking home too (I did not walk all of the way this year as I had already walked from Santiago to SJPP in 2022) came in, and we were both very pleased to encounter, for likely the final time on our Caminos, a pilgrim that we already knew.

Mostly though, either being alone or unexpectedly finding oneself in the company of another is simple and straightforward.

 

[roving_rufus]

I have had a few alone nights in albergues - whether in winter or on less travelled routes. This I don't mind as long as the door locks! (I am female). Some are very comfy solo, others feel a bit creepy.

But that 2 random pilgrim thing can be very weird. On the CP I was in an albergue in a village, when a slightly odd older women arrived after 6.30 and started spouting wild conspiracy theories - I was so happy when a German girl arrived late at 8.30ish, as I was considering leaving in the dark even with my bad ankle -I was that uncomfortable.
Last year on the Via Bayona/ Vasco Interior I was late arriving in Zegama and the male pilgrim had bolted the door and despite me having keys I couldn't get in but eventually he figured out someone was at the door - but we slept in separate dorms. He said next day he was going to one town, I said I was going to do a long day over mountains of 34km. So I arrived, made dinner and was settled in bed with lights off sleeping at nearly 10pm, and the front door opened and in came the local hospitalera with the same male pilgrim- with a shout of hola - I nearly jumped a foot off the bed! But he was really quiet and slept in one of the side alcoves trying not to disturb me.
Then on the Voie du Littoral down the coast of France - few pilgrims travel this route. I knew from one parish accommodation there were a couple of pilgrims recently through (inside a week!). So the next day I was doing a 35km day and in this forest in the middle of nowhere I could see someone sitting at the side of the track - I started to freak as a solo female- but it was a young guy with a rucksack with a shell! We walked the last bit together to village and the pilgrim accommodation at the mairie (townhall). The accomodation was a basic kitchen and a single bunkbed - he being gentlemanly offered me the bottom bunk. Having not seen another pilgrim on this entire trip until Bayonne - it was very exciting and fun!

 

[MikeJS]

I to have frequently stayed in places by myself and mostly rather like it. I had one memerable ‘experience “ in Petrola on the Sureste when the accommodation was in a spare room of a church. All very simple, no shower but adequate. It was dark and relatively cool and the room contained about 6 or so of the life size religious figures often used in procession and such like. Made for a slightly surreal night, especially when I needed to get up in the middle of the night…...

 

[Paladina]

Being alone in an albergue or billeted with an unknown other doesn’t normally disturb me. In a private albergue, I shared a dorm with a southern European I’d never seen before. We exchanged pleasantries and regrets about the unseasonable weather. Unfortunately, accustomed to higher temperatures than he found in Galicia, he turned the heating up to its maximum. It was like sleeping in a sauna. For once, I welcomed the next morning’s persistent rain.

 

[duncanwhyte]

On the mozarabes and vdlp I was the only occupant of the albergues a few times. Sometimes it was a casa rural at reduced price. It's a welcome break from the hubbub of a busy albergue.

 

[peregrina2000]

I can also add many stories about being the only one in an albergue, but only one story about being scared out of my wits. In Algemesí on the Levante, I got the key from the toy museum across the street. At about 11 pm that night, someone came into the dark albergue when I was asleep, and I screamed. He was just as terrified as I. He was a cyclist who had had a bike break-down somewhere along the way. He got the key from the police in Algemesí, who were unaware of the fact that the toy museum had already given out one key.

I’ve often seen on his vlogs that Álvaro Lazaga always bolts the doors of albergues when he is alone. I tried to do that once, in Castromonte, but it was more of a clown show than anything else, and I gave up. I don’t think I’m careless, but it just didn’t seem to me that it was necessary and I haven’t tried since.

I’d be interested in hearing from others — when you are alone, do you take care to block doors or otherwise impede the entrance of a potential intruder?

 

[Stivandrer]

Stayed in what looked like a tall seminary building close to Santa Eulalia church in Silleda. Had contacted and met with a person that gave me the key, told me to go into the tall stairwell and enter dormitory on the second floor. Long row of cubicles with doors that could lock and only light switches in either end.
I might as well undress and sleep in darkness...
That called for a long dark night and I parked myself close to the bathrooms in the middle of the long room, chose the room that had a nice scallop shell on the window sill.
It was an unremarkable night with good sleep as I hed been flat out tired and wet and only woke once when a water pipe somewhere contracted and gave a bump. I think I would´ve been more on edge if sb else was there and only in the morning I found out that lock, even when engaged, was not working.
Had it given me false sense of security..!
Anyway, I always sleep with my headlight on my head

 

[Bradypus]

I’d be interested in hearing from others — when you are alone, do you take care to block doors or otherwise impede the entrance of a potential intruder?

When it is late at night and I am ready for bed I usually lock the door but I wouldn't go out of my way to block any entrances otherwise. I am always aware that an albergue is a communal space and that there may be others with a key and legitimate reasons for entering the building.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I’d be interested in hearing from others — when you are alone, do you take care to block doors or otherwise impede the entrance of a potential intruder?

In Italy, that's just common sense against thieves.

 

[Paladina]

I’d be interested in hearing from others — when you are alone, do you take care to block doors or otherwise impede the entrance of a potential intruder?

No, I don’t. The potential intruder is more likely to be an exhausted pilgrim.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I’d be interested in hearing from others — when you are alone, do you take care to block doors or otherwise impede the entrance of a potential intruder?

In Linyola on the Camino Catalan I stayed at the agricultural compound that Josep Cabra had on the edge of town. He provided an albergue-like upper floor on one of the buildings surrounding a gated courtyard. The Catalan gets few walkers and so it was just me there. When it was time for me to sleep I debated with myself but then decided to bolt the door at the ground floor to keep the equipment and tools stored there safe. Sometime in the middle of the night I was awakened by someone coming up the stairs and, in a loud voice, I called out "Quien es?" A quite drunk young man started apologizing. He identified himself as my host's grandson and he eventually chose a bed and went to sleep. I have no idea how he managed to unbolt the door from the outside, especially in his condition.

In the morning on my way out of town I saw two cafes near each other. I peeked into the first and left to look at the second when some men having coffee outside told me that Señor Cabra was inside the first cafe. I found him with several friends sitting at the extreme back. I thanked him for his hospitality and I was given more as he invited me to sit down and have breakfast. I told him about my visitor and he and a friend sitting next to him looked at each other, grinned and both spoke his name at the same time. Apparently his grandson had used the room for peregrinos as a crash pad before.

 

[roving_rufus]

I’ve often seen on his vlogs that Álvaro Lazaga always bolts the doors of albergues when he is alone. I tried to do that once, in Castromonte, but it was more of a clown show than anything else, and I gave up. I don’t think I’m careless, but it just didn’t seem to me that it was necessary and I haven’t tried since.

I’d be interested in hearing from others — when you are alone, do you take care to block doors or otherwise impede the entrance of a potential intruder?

I suspect then that Alvaro's influence of bolting doors on the Spanish pilgrim in Zegama - because it left me flummoxed at 9pm of what I was going to do after a good 10 minutes of trying to get in to the lovely new albergue including knocking before the pilgrim inside let me in. (I was late enough arrival at 9pm)
I will admit I have sometimes I have put a chair under the handle of an interior door in a few less salubrious establishments or door wedge but less willing to mess around with exterior doors in case of emergency.

 

[Caomhin O Fearghaill]

Because I had to abandon my first Camino after 22 days because of shin splints, I returned the following year in late March to complete my journey.

Being early in the season, I often found myself as the only occupant of an Albergue. This ranged from feeling like the king of the castle, with the entire building to myself, a fully equipped kitchen, my pick of the beds, and luxurious, unhurried showers, to feeling like a contestant in a reality show set in a haunted building. There were times when I experienced exceptionally cold spots, a spooky sense and the odd very strange noises at one o'clock in the morning.

I’m sure many pilgrims have had similar experiences. It’s not unique. But given the choice of being alone in an Albergue or being the last person to arrive when it’s packed, I’d still choose the solitude.

However, the only thing I found more uncomfortable than being the sole resident was when I expected to be alone, only to have a second pilgrim arrive; if it was a fellow male, it was no problem; however, as a 64-year-old man, if it was a woman. I would worry about her potential natural discomfort at sharing a dormitory with a strange man, even if he was a genuine pilgrim. Having five sisters, I’ve heard countless stories about situations where they felt uneasy around men. I am acutely aware of not wanting to be a source of discomfort or worry for anyone. I would always try to speak in a friendly tone, hoping to reassure them. They chose not to stay on a few occasions, which I completely understood but felt terrible about.

There are countless stories from my Caminos, but one of my most memorable experiences happened in Lugo. I was the only person in the Albergue, a large dormitory with 20 beds. When I returned at 9:15 PM, the staff member had left the building. I read for a while and, around 10 PM, decided to go to bed. I quickly discovered I couldn’t find the light switch. No matter how much I searched, I couldn’t locate it, and the room remained brightly lit. At 10:10 PM, I heard a noise at the door. The staff member who was not staying at the Albergue returned and, fortunately, showed me the switch, hidden in a recessed area outside the room. (Which I would never have found) The room was pitch black once the lights were off, and I struggled to find my way back to bed.

As I lay there, I listened to the sounds of the night. In the morning, I woke up early and made my exit. As my father would say, “It was character-building.”

Ah! A spooky story from the Camino. I have one. About ten years ago when I reached Santiago I decided to walk to Finnestere. It was an impulse. I thought I had enough time on my hands. I felt I had enough energy. Anyway, I miscalculated my time and I walked one of the stages into the late evening. It began to get dark. I was somewhere between Negreira and Olveiroa. I can't recall the name of the village but the refugio was an old school. It looked empty and the door was locked. A local woman called to me and in my poor Spanish I understood that she had the key. So, in I went. It was a large room fairly basic about 15/20 matresses on the floor, toilets and showers. I had snacks and made myself a light supper before turning in. I went for a spot in a corner of the room furthest from the door. I hopped into my sleeping bag and I went out like a light. During the night I woke up suddenly. (Now at this point I want those who can, please recall a ghost story by the English writer, M.R. James entitled "Whistle and I'll Come to You") As my eyes got used to the dark, I saw a figure standing at the end of the room, in the doorway, motionless but just visable in the gloom. I mumbled a feeble "buenos noches" but there was no response. The figure seemed to turn around and disappear. Yes, I felt a bit unsettled but not enough to get out of my warm sleeping bag to investigate. The next morning in brillant Spanish sunshine I notice that a matress near the door had been moved sideways to line up under one of the windows. Clearly, my nighttime visitor was another late arrival...a fellow Perigrino...or was...it..?. The woman with the key was not at home when I called to return it. So, I couldn't check it out in my poor Spanish. Anyway, I popped the key in the letter box and went on my way.

 

[peregrina2000]

He identified himself as my host's grandson and he eventually chose a bed and went to sleep.

Ah, Linyola. We met this young man as well, or maybe it was another member of the family, since it was about 10 years ago. He spent his time down in a sort of “man cave” on the first floor and never came upstairs. Lots of smoking cigarettes, and he seemed to be about 17.

Every time I think of Linyola, I can’t help but chuckle over LTfit’s classic comment when we stayed there. When I asked her if she was going to wash her clothes, she said no, because the sink was dirtier than her clothes.

Josep Cabra was exceedingly gracious to open this room to pilgrims, whatever its state. I understand he isn’t doing it any more and the only option in town is something on AirBnb.

 

[Lindsay53]

On my last adventure I spent quite a few nights alone in an albergue and really enjoyed it, but had no supernatural experiences. However the albergue in Benevente on the VDLP, located in an old railway station, did have a somewhat creepy vibe. The lady at the ayuntamiento told me in no uncertain terms to lock the door behind me and to let no one else in. I think they may have had issues with squatters at some point.

The old hospital ward in La Baneza felt a bit strange as well.

 

[nilesite]

I’m also a veteran winter pilgrim. I decided to stay at an Albergue once on the Francés because I thought it’d be nice to have some conversation. Of course, I ended up being the only one there. The hospitalera told me if I appeared at 7am she’d make me a coffee for the road. I go downstairs, 7am, and the door’s locked and I’m either stuck in the stairwell or back upstairs in the dorm. I call. No answer. I text. Same. I WhatsApp. Nada. Finally at around 7:45, I hear her in the dining room on the other side of the door. She’s curious why I didn’t just walk out the other door? I told her she’d offered me coffee and I wasn’t going anywhere without it - covering up the fact I didn’t try the other door to see if it opened.

 

[El Cascayal]

Anyone looking for a bit of creepy or heebie jeebies stay in winter on the Invierno in Diomondi in the room with your bed over the graves. There were 2 of us in the entire albergue and I’m sure we took turns keeping one eye open.

 

[LTfit]

I’d be interested in hearing from others — when you are alone, do you take care to block doors or otherwise impede the entrance of a potential intruder?

As you know I have also stayed many, many times over the years alone in albergues as you have although I have never felt inclined to block a door. Only in 2 instances over the last 13 years I felt afraid, once on the Lana staying in a municipal albergue next to the police station. In the middle of the night a few men entered the dorm and and put a flashlight in my face. Geez was I startled! They were policemen who were concerned because they saw a light on in the albergue (I had left a light on in the bathroom). I yelled at them in Spanish to never do that to a pilgrim again. The second time was on the Levante or the Lana. I stayed in a parish building on a blow-up mattress in a room that couldn't lock and the front door also did not lock and in fact could not close properly. Boy did I feel uncomfortable but eventually fell asleep.

It is interesting to hear that Álvaro blocks the door. That never has crossed my mind.

 

[KariannNor]

I’d be interested in hearing from others — when you are alone, do you take care to block doors or otherwise impede the entrance of a potential intruder?

Well, I didn't block, but put two chairs on top of each other inside the door to wake up faster if someone broke in when I was alone in November after seeing this article/warning on the wall.

 

[jimmyc]

In May 2016 I was the sole occupant of the albergue in Grijo in Portugal. It was quite large and an odd experience to have the entire building to myself.
The caretaker who lived next door provided a very good dinner for me with his family for 6 euro.

 

[backpack45]

Because I had to abandon my first Camino after 22 days because of shin splints, I returned the following year in late March to complete my journey.

Being early in the season, I often found myself as the only occupant of an Albergue. This ranged from feeling like the king of the castle, with the entire building to myself, a fully equipped kitchen, my pick of the beds, and luxurious, unhurried showers, to feeling like a contestant in a reality show set in a haunted building. There were times when I experienced exceptionally cold spots, a spooky sense and the odd very strange noises at one o'clock in the morning.

I’m sure many pilgrims have had similar experiences. It’s not unique. But given the choice of being alone in an Albergue or being the last person to arrive when it’s packed, I’d still choose the solitude.

However, the only thing I found more uncomfortable than being the sole resident was when I expected to be alone, only to have a second pilgrim arrive; if it was a fellow male, it was no problem; however, as a 64-year-old man, if it was a woman. I would worry about her potential natural discomfort at sharing a dormitory with a strange man, even if he was a genuine pilgrim. Having five sisters, I’ve heard countless stories about situations where they felt uneasy around men. I am acutely aware of not wanting to be a source of discomfort or worry for anyone. I would always try to speak in a friendly tone, hoping to reassure them. They chose not to stay on a few occasions, which I completely understood but felt terrible about.

There are countless stories from my Caminos, but one of my most memorable experiences happened in Lugo. I was the only person in the Albergue, a large dormitory with 20 beds. When I returned at 9:15 PM, the staff member had left the building. I read for a while and, around 10 PM, decided to go to bed. I quickly discovered I couldn’t find the light switch. No matter how much I searched, I couldn’t locate it, and the room remained brightly lit. At 10:10 PM, I heard a noise at the door. The staff member who was not staying at the Albergue returned and, fortunately, showed me the switch, hidden in a recessed area outside the room. (Which I would never have found) The room was pitch black once the lights were off, and I struggled to find my way back to bed.

As I lay there, I listened to the sounds of the night. In the morning, I woke up early and made my exit. As my father would say, “It was character-building.”

You sound like a super-considerate person -- considering how a woman on her own might feel. Your experience with the lightswitch might be a good reminder to others to bring a headlamp, or small flashlight (or even use their cellphone) if case they find themselves in similar situations. As others have mentioned previously, there are even places in Spain where the lights in public restrooms (I don't know if this happens in albergues) are on timers and it's not all that much fun to have a lightbulb go off then you are using the bathroom.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

The lights, switches and single occupant albergue theme causes me to give a really quick off-topic warning. On the Catalan I was in two albergues where turning off the overhead lights also turned off the power to the wall outlets. Being the sole occupant of the place allows you to charge your phone in another room.

 

[David Tallan]

On the Camino de Madrid, I was the only pilgrim in the albergue more often than not, and on my last Camino (Torres/CGA) I was the only pilgrim in every albergue I stayed in (except at Salamanca to begin with, where I was hospitalero).

One night I particularly remember was at Grajal de Campos, where the albergue is in a Renaissance palace, something I was looking forward to. Unfortunately, that was the night I came down with stomach flu or food poisoning. I was particularly glad to be alone that night as it meant I wasn't keeping other pilgrims up with my repeated trips to the washroom all night to empty my stomach.

 

[Sue127]

My first night as a lone occupant left me with a range of feelings. It was the first night of my first ever Camino and I had booked into Orisson, as that is what everyone had suggested. I was walking in October 2020, between lockdowns when Spain had opened up again.
I arrived at the auberge having battled up the last part of the hill in the rain, I was shown the auberge and told to select a bed in one of the rooms. I later went over to the bar for dinner and then discovered that no-one else was booked in for that evening. I was a little wary, being on my own, Not scared, but definitely a little disappointed that there was no communal dinner and sharing stories that I had heard so much about (I did meet people the following day!).
Earlier this year I ended up at the albergue in Alba on my own. It was fine but a bit strange. A few pilgrims whom I had met the day before had said that they were aiming for there, so I expected to share. When I eventually met them a day or so later, I asked whether I had misunderstood, but they had made a decision as they walked to stop at the town before.
The most uneasy time was during my first camino when I arrived at an albergue to find the dorm fully booked but was able to book a double room. I was a little surprised when a gentleman arrived to share the room with me. It's strange as we would have been closer in a dorm and yet I felt a little uneasy with just two of us in a room together. I hasten to add that it was fine.
My spirit of adventure remains and I'm looking to a new camino next year.

 

[JennyH94]

Gosh - I love everyone’s stories on this thread so much. Thank you all for sharing them. All your posts have taken me straight to your various caminos and to how you all felt when you were in that experience.

As a solo female pilgrim, the potential situation of being alone in an albergue would concern me, even though I have very happily and thankfully walked several caminos now. I’ve always been so happy to see other pilgrims turn up at albergues when I’ve been the first one to arrive!

Best, best wishes from Oz -
Jenny

 

[mattythedog]

Because I had to abandon my first Camino after 22 days because of shin splints, I returned the following year in late March to complete my journey.

Being early in the season, I often found myself as the only occupant of an Albergue. This ranged from feeling like the king of the castle, with the entire building to myself, a fully equipped kitchen, my pick of the beds, and luxurious, unhurried showers, to feeling like a contestant in a reality show set in a haunted building. There were times when I experienced exceptionally cold spots, a spooky sense and the odd very strange noises at one o'clock in the morning.

I’m sure many pilgrims have had similar experiences. It’s not unique. But given the choice of being alone in an Albergue or being the last person to arrive when it’s packed, I’d still choose the solitude.

However, the only thing I found more uncomfortable than being the sole resident was when I expected to be alone, only to have a second pilgrim arrive; if it was a fellow male, it was no problem; however, as a 64-year-old man, if it was a woman. I would worry about her potential natural discomfort at sharing a dormitory with a strange man, even if he was a genuine pilgrim. Having five sisters, I’ve heard countless stories about situations where they felt uneasy around men. I am acutely aware of not wanting to be a source of discomfort or worry for anyone. I would always try to speak in a friendly tone, hoping to reassure them. They chose not to stay on a few occasions, which I completely understood but felt terrible about.

There are countless stories from my Caminos, but one of my most memorable experiences happened in Lugo. I was the only person in the Albergue, a large dormitory with 20 beds. When I returned at 9:15 PM, the staff member had left the building. I read for a while and, around 10 PM, decided to go to bed. I quickly discovered I couldn’t find the light switch. No matter how much I searched, I couldn’t locate it, and the room remained brightly lit. At 10:10 PM, I heard a noise at the door. The staff member who was not staying at the Albergue returned and, fortunately, showed me the switch, hidden in a recessed area outside the room. (Which I would never have found) The room was pitch black once the lights were off, and I struggled to find my way back to bed.

As I lay there, I listened to the sounds of the night. In the morning, I woke up early and made my exit. As my father would say, “It was character-building.”

I am also 64 and considered it a luxury the several times I have had the whole albergue to myself or the numerous times I get my own dorm. It never crossed my mind that on multiple occasions the sole woman in the albergue or dorm with me might be uncomfortable. Rather, they always seemed quite at ease; likely from the security of having a fellow pilgrim with them. Many a time on a long lonely stretch or in the dark of dawn or trekking through seedier parts of cities, women have requested to walk with me, especially because they were uncomfortable walking alone.

Perhaps look at it from that point of view, BiggBlue, and don’t worry.

 

[Takahiwai]

All of the stories here are relatively benign. I've been following the thread, and resisting the urge to reply to it.

Here's a story from my very first camino, back in 1998. I walked in autumn (France) and winter (Spain) and stayed in many a refugio where I was the only occupant. I have fond memories of almost all of them - almost, but not all.

I was on the camino in Galicia, and arrived at a rather remote refugio on top of a hill. As I recall, there were only some farm buildings nearby. Upon descending the hill, though, I came across a bar-restaurant, fairly new, which didn't appear in my guidebook. The owners were very friendly and kind, and persuaded me to stay the night in the refugio at the top of the hill, and, as I wasn't in a hurry, I did just that. Trundled my rucksack back up the hill, got cleaned up, and sauntered back down for lunch. While I was still down there at the bar, another pilgrim arrived. He was Catalan, and riding a donkey. He seemed very friendly, and decided to stay in the refugio too. A few hours later, noting that the Catalan pilgrim was a bit the worse for wear, I decided to call it a day and go back up to the refugio.

Not very much later, the drunken Catalan and his new local friend arrived at the refugio too, with supplies of alcohol, and mischief on their minds. To cut a long and unpleasant story short, I ended up barricaded in the toilets, clutching my Swiss Army knife and praying for dawn. Somewhat stupidly and unbelievably, once the local man eventually left, after the stand-off, I felt it safe enough to come out of the toilets. I spent the rest of the night, sleepless, listening to the Catalan's woeful life story, and watching helplessly as he destroyed practically every stick of furniture in the place, by kicking it to death.

It was, without a doubt, one of the worst nights of my life, but oddly enough it didn't put me off being alone in remote albergues, and nothing in any way similar has ever happened to me since, on any other camino.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Ah! A spooky story from the Camino. I have one. About ten years ago when I reached Santiago I decided to walk to Finnestere. It was an impulse. I thought I had enough time on my hands. I felt I had enough energy. Anyway, I miscalculated my time and I walked one of the stages into the late evening. It began to get dark. I was somewhere between Negreira and Olveiroa. I can't recall the name of the village but the refugio was an old school. It looked empty and the door was locked. A local woman called to me and in my poor Spanish I understood that she had the key. So, in I went. It was a large room fairly basic about 15/20 matresses on the floor, toilets and showers. I had snacks and made myself a light supper before turning in. I went for a spot in a corner of the room furthest from the door. I hopped into my sleeping bag and I went out like a light. During the night I woke up suddenly. (Now at this point I want those who can, please recall a ghost story by the English writer, M.R. James entitled "Whistle and I'll Come to You") As my eyes got used to the dark, I saw a figure standing at the end of the room, in the doorway, motionless but just visable in the gloom. I mumbled a feeble "buenos noches" but there was no response. The figure seemed to turn around and disappear. Yes, I felt a bit unsettled but not enough to get out of my warm sleeping bag to investigate. The next morning in brillant Spanish sunshine I notice that a matress near the door had been moved sideways to line up under one of the windows. Clearly, my nighttime visitor was another late arrival...a fellow Perigrino...or was...it..?. The woman with the key was not at home when I called to return it. So, I couldn't check it out in my poor Spanish. Anyway, I popped the key in the letter box and went on my way.

Vilaserio! The old school building (otherwise known as the cement block)... oh the memories...

 

[VNwalking]

It was, without a doubt, one of the worst nights of my life, but oddly enough it didn't put me off being alone in remote albergues, and nothing in any way similar has ever happened to me since, on any other camino.

That's one heck of a story. I wonder what the poor hospitalero did after that. Did you report the guy to anyone?

 

[walkingstu]

After graduating university my niece took a year off to travel Europe, Asia, New Zealand and Australia. In her pack she included a small wooden door wedge, and said she was glad to have it on a few occasions.

 

[mla1]

One night I particularly remember was at Grajal de Campos, where the albergue is in a Renaissance palace, something I was looking forward to. Unfortunately, that was the night I came down with stomach flu or food poisoning. I was particularly glad to be alone that night as it meant I wasn't keeping other pilgrims up with my repeated trips to the washroom all night to empty my stomach.

I was also at Grajal de Campos alone on a very grey and rainy afternoon. For most of the afternoon the albergue lobby was full of people trying to stay out of the rain during a big fiesta outside in the square. Once the fiesta ended, the albergue emptied out, and I was by myself. The place creeped me out. Especially with the big uncovered windows in the lobby. They open onto the square and make the lobby (which is where you would eat and where the door to the washroom is) feel like a fishbowl. I ended up packing up around 5 pm and, with a big feeling of relief, walking on to Sahagun in the rain.

The night in Grajal was at the end of the Camino de Madrid where I had been the only person in almost all the albergues. I then walked up and spent a week on the Ovidado where I was the only person in all the albergues. I felt fine in all of them except the albergue in Congosto. It is a very basic small room with 2 bunks and some showers in a cinderblock building that is separated from the village by a large field -- nearest houses are a few hundred metres away. It is beside the local cemetary. I did lock the door when I went to bed. About 1:00 in the morning I heard a group of young guys outside, walking along the road toward the cemetary. About half an hour later I heard them come back, much louder, presumably drunk. They started yelling and banging on the albergue door and pulling on the door handle. It lasted about five minutes and was scary enough to keep me awake for much of the night. I left very early in the morning. I let the hospitalera know but never heard back.

 

[WGroleau]

The old hospital ward in La Baneza felt a bit strange as well.

Took me a while to figure out how to get a key in La Bañeza. Thought it weird to find a room full of hospital beds. But comfy. Chose one far from the door. Much later, a French pilgrim came in and slept near the door. I don’t recall a y conversation but that’s the only way I could guess the nationality.

 

[David Tallan]

Especially with the big uncovered windows in the lobby. They open onto the square and make the lobby (which is where you would eat and where the door to the washroom is) feel like a fishbowl. I ended up packing up around 5 pm and, with a big feeling of relief, walking on to Sahagun in the rain.

Big uncovered windows in the lobby is one thing. Later in the same Camino, on the Primitivo, I stayed at Albergue Casa Sueño in Salas (not alone) where the wall of the dorm facing the street is just big, uncovered windows. Talk about a fishbowl.

View from the dorm in Casa Sueño:

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Big uncovered windows in the lobby is one thing. Later in the same Camino, on the Primitivo, I stayed at Albergue Casa Sueño in Salas (not alone) where the wall of the dorm facing the street is just big, uncovered windows. Talk about a fishbowl.

That looks like a nice place! You concerned about privacy? In an Albergue?

 

[unadara]

Response above (Sue) prompts me to finally share. I have also stayed alone most recently on the Camino Vadiniese. In dorms you are often sleeping side by side with male/female pilgrims, On the VDLP there was a group of us walking, one man in particular was very quiet, nervous and had a strange background story but we had walked many stages together, we walked in late one evening to find everyone else settled in and no room at the inn, they kindly promised they'd find us beds if we went to the local bar for food, everyone else was having the communal dinner.
We arrived back to find they'd moved 2 children out and we were to sleep in the twin bed room side by side. we were both equally taken aback, but we agreed to keep the door open and both slept (I hope)!
Of course the 2 others thought it hilarious at breakfast, we were all English speaking so could get the nuances.

 

[Lindsay53]

Took me a while to figure out how to get a key in La Bañeza. Thought it weird to find a room full of hospital beds. But comfy. Chose one far from the door. Much later, a French pilgrim came in and slept near the door. I don’t recall a y conversation but that’s the only way I could guess the nationality.

I was lucky that the hospitalero was there when I arrived.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I was also at Grajal de Campos alone on a very grey and rainy afternoon. For most of the afternoon the albergue lobby was full of people trying to stay out of the rain during a big fiesta outside in the square. Once the fiesta ended, the albergue emptied out, and I was by myself. The place creeped me out. Especially with the big uncovered windows in the lobby. They open onto the square and make the lobby (which is where you would eat and where the door to the washroom is) feel like a fishbowl.

The entrance hall was like that when I slept there alone in 2022, but the dormitory windows have proper curtains or whatever.

It's not the best place to stay with regard to one's smartphone as the only electricity outlet is in that lobby, and being there on fiesta day does sound rather non-ideal, but there's a truly great place to eat in the village on quieter occasions, and the people in the pueblo are very friendly.

I'd agree that the place does have a pretty lonely feel to it, including because the dormitory is so huge, which does rather intensify an impression of stark solitude. FWIW it did feel better in there after dark, and those bunk beds are actually quite comfy and cosy.

 

[Takahiwai]

That's one heck of a story. I wonder what the poor hospitalero did after that. Did you report the guy to anyone?

I don't know who was taking care of the place, possibly the people on the farm, whom I never saw (although the drunken local man possibly came from there).

I did not close my eyes all night, and as soon as dawn broke, I went back down the hill and waited for the bar to open. I told the owners what had happened the night before, mainly because I was worried that they might think I was the one responsible for the destruction of the furniture. I did not report it when I got to the next town with a police station, principally because times were different then, and I think I would have been laughed out of the building.

At the bar-restaurant down the hill, the couple could see I was absolutely wrecked, so the woman took me up the road to her home in a neighbouring village, and tried to distract me by showing me how she cured chorizos, and picked turnip tops, and other typical activities on a small-holding. Meanwhile, as I was told later, the man waited for the Catalan pilgrim to come down from the refugio, gave him a flea in his ear, and took his credencial away, as "he wasn't fit to be a pilgrim". He was most contrite, apparently. As to the local, they were sure he would come to the bar in the afternoon, and planned to read him the riot act. The daughter of the bar-owners drove me to Sarria when she got back from work. I was walking back from Santiago if I remember correctly.

 

[Marbe2]

On a Winter Camino my sister and I arrived in Pamplona at the end of January. The first three days were actually like nice days in early April. From then on the weather was quite volatile. One night we were the only people in a private albergue in Los Arcos. It was freezing, snowing all day and windy when we finally arrived circa 3pm. The place was closed up though we had reservations though Booking. We called and a woman came to let us in. Oh no…we could see our breath inside…heat had not been on for sometime. However, the woman assured us, it would take about an hour to heat the place up. In reality, it took much longer. I almost felt bad that we were asking for heat because it was apparent that she wasn’t expecting anyone else and the place was large. The internet did not work, disconnected. There was no food or vending machines. The woman left after we registered and paid. Then we went in search of food and warmth. We found a small restaurant open. What we chose to order, the waitress told us, not to… we wouldn't like it! So we welcomed some hot soup, bread, hot tea and used their internet for quite a while before returning to the albergue. We could no longer see our breath, but it was still uncomfortably cold. We went to our room put on almost everyday piece of clothing we were carrying and got into our sleeping bags. As a rule, I don’t use albergue blankets but I put two on top of my sleeping bag and got warm. By 8pm it was warm enough in the room to go to the bathroom and try and wash but alas no, no, no, no hot water. We called. The lady returned,, and an hour later we had hot water. It was really hot for about an hour. A little after 11pm the water was no longer even warm. But it had been hot enough for the two of us to get a shower! Thank goodness for our immersion coil. We made boullion soup, tea, and hot instant maple syrup oatmeal. The next morning when we woke up, early, we could see our breath again, even in the dark! There was even ice on the inside of the windows . Nevertheless, we stayed in our sleeping bags until it was light out. Then we jumped out of our sleeping bags, like we were inour youth again, and quickly threw everything into our backpacks and got the heck out of there. We found a little coffee shop open. There weren’t many people inside as it was early for Spain, and again bitter cold. We sat in a corner and tried to reorganize our packs. It was so icy and windy and now sleeting, that we ultimately decided it was prudent not to walk and, rather, took a bus to Logrono where we checked into a warm hotel for the rest of the day, had a good meal and a very long hot shower. The next few days walking, the temperatures and sun were comfortable.

 

[Paladina]

It sounds like my house: heat and hot water once a week, ice on the inside of the windows in winter, and no internet for much of the year. At least I’d feel at home.

 

[peregrina2000]

Vilaserio! The old school building (otherwise known as the cement block)... oh the memories...

I think you are the only person I know who has slept there. Care to elaborate on some of those memories?

 

[Damien Reynolds]

I think you are the only person I know who has slept there. Care to elaborate on some of those memories?

Well they are memories for me but I'm afraid not as interesting as other stories here...

First time stayed there in early June 2009. It was my second Camino, one that I walked with my sister (in memory of my mom who passed a few years after our own Camino in 2005)... I think the cement block was the only place in town at the time, because it was full! So full in fact we had to sleep on gym mats on the bottom floor That is except for me, they ran out of gym mats too! I didn't mind the cold cement bed because I was with my first camino "family" and was surrounded by several lovely young ladies. The picture is from 2009 and that isn't my sister.

In 2012 I came back, this time alone and I was the only one there. All I remember is that the place didn't really look used anymore, and I took a shower in a cold tub underneath a lightbulb held just by wires. No ghosts or intruders though. By then I think everyone stayed in Negreia or there may have been a new private Albergue, but I pretty much only stayed in municipals at that point.

Walking back in later years with new friends I would point to the place and tell them "that is the worst albergue I've ever stayed in." I've been in worse since tho.

Incidentally, in November of this year I stayed in Vilaserio at the pension available these days. I talked to the proprietor of the pension about the old school building and he told me people still try to stay there sometimes, but it is now just an empty shell.

 

[Robo]

No scary stories, but two memorable Albergues where I was the only occupant.
Both on the Invierno last year.

Villavieja - Muni Albergue
It's almost worth walking the Invierno just to stay here!
On the top of a hill up a steep path.
You have to carry your own food supply as there are no stores/bars.
I think about 10 people live in the village, though I didn't see anyone.
You call to book, and get texted the door code the day you arrive.

A wonderfully restored house on the side of a mountain with stunning views.
Sheets, towels, full kitchen.......

And I was totally alone!

I opened up all the windows in the dining area, whilst I enjoyed my measure meal of noodles, chorizo and bread. With amazing views of the mountainside opposite.

And at night, there was storm.
So I opened up the windows next to my bunk and lay watching the storm.
A magical place........





Hotel Vilaseco / Albergue - Penasillas

Again, I was the only guest in the whole place!
The owner said to have a look around and pick my bed.
There were two dorms with single beds.
All recently renovated I think.

Then dinner downstairs in the Hotel, again alone.
Just chatting with the owner, and his Dog.

Note. If you are going to stay here, it's not in the village. But up on the hill to the right a couple of kms before the village. A few extra kms that day! (I thought it looked too fancy and must be the local Golf Club!)

 

[Takahiwai]

I'm feeling a bit guilty about leaving such a grim story above, so let me balance it out with a more positive tale.

On that self-same camino in 1998, but much earlier, I arrived in Saint-Jean-d'Angély, on the Via Turonensis. At the time, there was pilgrim lodging advertised at L'Abbaye Royale in the centre. It's a massive, ancient structure, and I was there all alone. I found it rather unnerving, just due to the size of the place, and its emptiness of other people. To build up my courage, I decided to tour the many other dormitories, all of which featured beautiful blown-up photos of the camino. On one wall I found an inspiring shot - it was an impossibly green, impossibly steep hillside, upon which perched a little stone cottage, with smoke issuing forth from its chimney. I didn't know where it was, but I knew I wanted to get there. It really bucked me up at a time when I was feeling very guilty about asking my uninvited companion to go home (she could no longer walk), and also questioning myself about why I was even trying to do a pilgrimage.

I never found the place in the photo, but I never doubted my purpose again. Had there been other people in the refuge, I doubt I would have noticed the photos on the wall.

FWIW, L'Abbaye Royale has long been closed in terms of pilgrim accommodation, but I have recently read that they plan to reopen in 2025. That would be wonderful for those few who choose to do the Via Turonensis.

 

[RJM]

Though I may have experienced it more than once, the only lone pilgrim in the albergue experience I remember was when it happened to me the first time. It was a private albergue on the Frances somewhere between Pamplona and Logrono and it was late October. The living quarters were above the bar/restaurant and before she left the hospitalera gave me the keys to lock up in the morning as she said she wasn't getting up early for just one pilgrim.
I do remember taking a shower before bed and again after bed as I had the whole place to myself, and I do remember picking a bed all the way in the back of the room where I could face the door. Of course, the night was uneventful and after locking the doors on the way I out threw the keys back inside through a small window I believe.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Though I may have experienced it more than once, the only lone pilgrim in the albergue experience I remember was when it happened to me the first time.

First times for me were every single night on my second 1994 pilgrimage from Paris before finally reaching SJPP and seeing other pilgrims. I remember many of the times that I have been alone.

The first of those first times was in a locale that the Parish church in Châteaufort normally used for organising retreats, so I had a simple little room and a bed, which was lovely.

The priest had seemed quite dubious as I had only the one stamp at that point, as at the time pretty much nobody was walking from Paris, but I did have an introductory letter from the Archpriest of Notre-Dame cathedral, so he relented. He did seem happier in the morning after nothing he might have been worried about happened, and he saw me thankful and prepared to immediately walk on again.

The one time before SJPP that I wasn't *quite* alone was at the monastery in Ligugé, but the two other men staying there weren't pilgrims as such but they were on some sort of more involved retreat and discernment, one considering maybe becoming a monk, the other different but can't remember how. So in my mind, that's still being the lone pilgrim. Of course, there were all of the monks too ...