German/French documentary about the problems of over-tourism on the Camino

[AchimBerlin]

There's a new 30-Minute documentary on German/French arts and culture channel "arte" which deals with the ever growing attraction of the Camino and the burden of over-tourism on the inhabitants of Santiago. It follows a group of young pilgrims who went all the way on the Frances and how they experience the last stages from Sarria. It also portrays legendary hospitalero Jesús from Albergue Ave Feníx in Villafranca del Bierzo.
The docu is with French or German commentary only, but you can switch to a mixed language version where you hear the interviewees talking English and Spanish, subtitles in German and Polish as well.

Re: Tourimeile Jakobsweg - Die ganze Doku | ARTE

Der Jakobsweg wird zum Tourist*innenmagnet: Besonders auf dem letzten Abschnitt des Camino Frances pilgern jedes Jahr mehr Menschen nach Santiago de Compostela. Dort sorgt der Pilger-Boom zunehmend für Spannungen. Abseits der Tourist*innen-Massen setzt sich Herbergsvater Jésus Jato dafür ein...

www.arte.tv

 

[domigee]

Thank you for this, I am going to watch it!

 

[Pafayac]

I saw this documentary. It is a useful remembering of known problems and it should involve us in the research of solutions in order to avoir the saturation of the Camino, especially on the last 100 kms.
One point is that we, pilgrims, are a part of this problem, as somebody remembered us a few months ago...
Therefore, according to me, there are at this point 2 ways of exploring:
- Choosing other caminos (Via Francigena, Olaf pilgrimage, Via de Assisi...)
- Discouraging tour-operators and all the business around the Camino.

 

[Old Hillwalker]

Not viewable in the US

 

[VNwalking]

Discouraging tour-operators and all the business around the Camino.

Commercialization is the issue, yes. But what can we do about that? It doesn't seem like a solvable problem, at the ground level.

 

[Pafayac]

But what can we do about that?

Individually, I am afraid nothing. But often we belongs to pilgrims associations. Perhaps we can do something to prohibit that one person hold several credentials in order to have them signed ?
IMHO, the first thing to do is to release the 100 km rule, by giving a Compostela to who asks for it (even by mail).

 

[Pafayac]

Not viewable in the US

Try this:

How to watch ARTE TV in the USA

How to watch ARTE TV in the US Set out on a cultural journey with ARTE TV in the US. ARTE TV has a variety of French and German shows, series, and

www.purevpn.com

 

[suseia]

The problem of the frances is undeniably real.. In any case I think that the number of pilgrims change a lot along the frances before sarria and it is not the same in the different stages.. For example, this summer in september we hiked from sjpp to burgos and i didn't find a real crowd (for sure not after Pamplona) also because most of the pilgrims walked solo or in two and the groups of the "Camino friends" are quite various modifying often their composition. .. I have not walked the meseta yet, but the number of pilgrims is low in this part of the camino..and then I feel the Camino as a sort of "moving community" that helps my personal introspection consequently the number of pilgrims until sarria doesnt "disturb" my experience..In any case as we often say in this forum we are the ceo

 

[suseia]

... We are the crowd

 

[JerryStroebele]

. Perhaps we can do something to prohibit that one person hold several credentials in order to have them signed ?

Just saw that happen in Santiago in late October. My niece and I had just finished checking in to our albergue when a woman walked in and grabbed the sello tool and started stamping a stack of maybe 10 credentials. She whacked it with such force the hospitalero had to warn her to be more gentle, she might break it. Buen Camino

 

[Pafayac]

I have not walked the meseta yet, but the number of pilgrims is low in this part of the camino

Except during spring (the best season when walking the meseta).

 

[Pafayac]

... We are the crowd

I am not a crowd ! I am a human being ! ;-)

 

[dfox]

There's a new 30-Minute documentary on German/French arts and culture channel "arte" which deals with the ever growing attraction of the Camino and the burden of over-tourism on the inhabitants of Santiago.

Many world-famous cities and historical landmarks, such as Venice in Italy, Machu Picchu in Peru, and Amsterdam in the Netherlands, face significant challenges due to over-tourism. These issues include environmental strain, overcrowding, and disruptions to local communities. However, it’s important to recognize that tourism also plays a vital role in supporting their economies through visitors' spending.

I trust that the City Councils and urban planners in these destinations are actively working to address the challenges posed by over-tourism. By implementing thoughtful policies and innovative solutions, they can strike a balance between preserving their cultural and natural heritage and ensuring that tourism continues to benefit both residents and visitors alike.

 

[mgnswaus]

From my observations and personal experience, there has been a significant increase in small and particularly larger groups of 30 or 40 which impact in many ways on infrastructure of all kinds in that particular ‘wave’. Ads for guided groups can be found in increasing numbers on social media.

 

[williamlittig]

I saw this documentary. It is a useful remembering of known problems and it should involve us in the research of solutions in order to avoir the saturation of the Camino, especially on the last 100 kms.
One point is that we, pilgrims, are a part of this problem, as somebody remembered us a few months ago...
Therefore, according to me, there are at this point 2 ways of exploring:
- Choosing other caminos (Via Francigena, Olaf pilgrimage, Via de Assisi...)
- Discouraging tour-operators and all the business around the Camino.

I've been a joyful Hospitalero at Ribadiso three times and seen the impact of crowds on the last 100km. Schools and tour groups come in waves. We have a beautiful place in the country where it is calm and you can soak your tired feet. Large groups will stop here, soak, have lunch and unconsciously leave their garbage, use the albergue bathroom(we can't monitor what we don't see), single pilgrims have to elbow their way through and don't witness the tranquility that will return in 30 minutes. Many do rest, breath, soak then realize because they fear not having a bed, they have a reservation ahead 3km. and must leave. Alternate short routes are not prepared for classes of 50-100 and the investment might not see a return. I've recently heard of a certificate for visiting the Cathedral in Santiago, we see tour-grinos that collect sellos but walk very little, and get a Compostella (sad) E-bike's have recently been disqualified. Perhaps alternate rewards could reduce the impact on the last 100km? Still crowds can be a problem but it could mean other pilgrimages could be with certificates. Avila, Pamplona, Burgos, Leon, Obvieto etc.

 

[gittiharre]

There's a new 30-Minute documentary on German/French arts and culture channel "arte" which deals with the ever growing attraction of the Camino and the burden of over-tourism on the inhabitants of Santiago. It follows a group of young pilgrims who went all the way on the Frances and how they experience the last stages from Sarria. It also portrays legendary hospitalero Jesús from Albergue Ave Feníx in Villafranca del Bierzo.
The docu is with French or German commentary only, but you can switch to a mixed language version where you hear the interviewees talking English and Spanish, subtitles in German and Polish as well.

Re: Tourimeile Jakobsweg - Die ganze Doku | ARTE

Der Jakobsweg wird zum Tourist*innenmagnet: Besonders auf dem letzten Abschnitt des Camino Frances pilgern jedes Jahr mehr Menschen nach Santiago de Compostela. Dort sorgt der Pilger-Boom zunehmend für Spannungen. Abseits der Tourist*innen-Massen setzt sich Herbergsvater Jésus Jato dafür ein...

www.arte.tv

Just downloaded Arte and it says, not available

 

[dougfitz]

Not viewable in the US

Just downloaded Arte and it says, not available

I was able to see it using a VPN set to Germany. There were technical issues which might have arisen anywhere from my local ISP through to the content provider, and I didn't get past the first minute or so.

 

[bullingtonce]

There's a new 30-Minute documentary on German/French arts and culture channel "arte" which deals with the ever growing attraction of the Camino and the burden of over-tourism on the inhabitants of Santiago. It follows a group of young pilgrims who went all the way on the Frances and how they experience the last stages from Sarria. It also portrays legendary hospitalero Jesús from Albergue Ave Feníx in Villafranca del Bierzo.
The docu is with French or German commentary only, but you can switch to a mixed language version where you hear the interviewees talking English and Spanish, subtitles in German and Polish as well.

Re: Tourimeile Jakobsweg - Die ganze Doku | ARTE

Der Jakobsweg wird zum Tourist*innenmagnet: Besonders auf dem letzten Abschnitt des Camino Frances pilgern jedes Jahr mehr Menschen nach Santiago de Compostela. Dort sorgt der Pilger-Boom zunehmend für Spannungen. Abseits der Tourist*innen-Massen setzt sich Herbergsvater Jésus Jato dafür ein...

www.arte.tv

The problem is that there are larger and larger numbers of people, not all but probably most, who are on a spiritual path? Me thinks the first think to accept is that there ought to be no action taken to discourage or eliminate such a person. Then, go from them in terms of handling crowds/numbers that pose a threat to local infrastructure and village sensibilities. And finally, turn to the locals for how to deal with and handle the situation but do so with these locals have an expectation of increased revenue and benefits. The fact has to be accepted that pilgrimages are only going to increase; therefore, management becomes a key element.
One possibility is to limit the numbers on a particular pilgrimage and require the excess to use other routes. Ideal to these particular pilgrims, no. Necessary, yes. One's expectation in life has to be minimized and, yes, even controlled. Welcome to life. Chuck

 

[gittiharre]

I was able to see it using a VPN set to Germany. There were technical issues which might have arisen anywhere from my local ISP through to the content provider, and I didn't get past the first minute or so.

I'm in New Zealand...

 

[dougfitz]

I'm in New Zealand..

A VPN will allow you to set a virtual location which makes your computer appear to be in that country. Setting the location to Germany (in this case) allows you to access content that is only made available in the virtual location you have chosen. I also use it when I am travelling, and set my virtual location to Australia so that I can access content from home that I might not be able to access from overseas.

 

[Kathor1]

It follows a group of young pilgrims who went all the way on the Frances and how they experience the last stages from Sarria. It also portrays legendary hospitalero Jesús from Albergue Ave Feníx in Villafranca del Bierzo.
The docu is with French or German commentary only, but you can switch to a mixed language version where you hear the interviewees talking English and Spanish, subtitles in German and Polish as well.

@AchimBerlin, thank you for pointing out this short documentation.

I found it to be very balanced. A nice mix of the experience of the three young pilgrims, the woman who lives in the San Pedro suburb of Santiago and the Ave Fenix albergue in Villafranca with Jato who is now 84 years old. Did they say that he has six daughters, all of them living in the cities and none of them will eventually take over the albergue?

Forum members who had stayed there will enjoy these scenes in particular. And there is of course a queimada ceremony to be seen.

Also thanks for pointing out the option of following it without voice over. I enjoyed watching it with everybody speaking in their chosen language with German subtitles.

 

[Kathor1]

As @dougfitz recommends, a good VPN app with acces point set to a German city ought to do the trick for those who are faced with geoblocking. I recently watched the BBC’s complete first series of Wolf Hall thanks to VPN. For the first time since using Express VPN, the connection got frequently interrupted and I had to re-initialise it. Best of luck to all who try to watch ARTE from other continents!

 

[Kathor1]

The problem is that there are larger and larger numbers of people, not all but probably most, who are on a spiritual path?

@bullingtonce, I take it that you did not watch the ARTE documentation and you never observed those “Sarria crowds” yourself? The issue of overcrowding is multi-faceted and the solutions are not simple.

My takeaway from the ARTE documentation is that young pilgrims in particular both enjoy partying in the evenings and suffer from it because the noise keeps them awake when they want to sleep. Another issue are the large organised groups of again young pilgrims - groups of 30 to 40 persons or even as much as 200 and more - who often and quite obviously march into Santiago as a group, carrying large religious banners and crucifixes, or oversized national flags or association flags, but who also cause unbearable noise for the local population living in their homes along these streets, due to the groups' chanting of slogans and singing of hymns and playing of drums and guitars and trumpets when marching into Santiago - even in the early hours of the morning. This happens in particular during the summer months.

The documentation also shows two young men employed by the city administration of Santiago who are dressed in special outfits and walk among the crowds on the Obradoiro square tasked with raising awareness - they have tablets and a device for measuring the noise level in decibels and try to talk to those who are willing to listen.

 

[Kathor1]

The documentation also shows two young men employed by the city administration of Santiago who are dressed in special outfits and walk among the crowds on the Obradoiro square tasked with raising awareness

Below is a link to an article about these informadores turisticos.

The aim is to foster a harmonious coexistence between the people who visit Compostela and those who reside in it. The city administration had also initiated an information campaign in albergues and hostels in the city to raise awareness about this issue. One can think what one wants about such efforts - at least they are trying to do something to improve the living conditions for the inhabitants in the Old Town section of Santiago that has deteriorated due to the increase of visitors - pilgrims and and other tourists alike.

Diez informadores turísticos recorren las calles de Santiago para lograr una "convivencia armónica"

El Código de Boas Prácticas y un sonómetro para medir los niveles de ruidos son algunas de los recursos con los que cuentan ...

diariocompostela.elidealgallego.com

 

[Scott Fraser]

I am not a crowd ! I am a human being ! ;-)

I think Suseia was trying to correct a typo in the message immediately above. I’m sure she meant no offense.

 

[AchimBerlin]

@AchimBerlin, thank you for pointing out this short documentation.

I found it to be very balanced. A nice mix of the experience of the three young pilgrims, the woman who lives in the San Pedro suburb of Santiago and the Ave Fenix albergue in Villafranca with Jato who is now 84 years old. Did they say that he has six daughters, all of them living in the cities and none of them will eventually take over the albergue?

Forum members who had stayed there will enjoy these scenes in particular. And there is of course a queimada ceremony to be seen.

Also thanks for pointing out the option of following it without voice over. I enjoyed watching it with everybody speaking in their chosen language with German subtitles.

Yes, it’s mentioned that none of his family wants to take over the albergue. Pity.

 

[Arctic_Alex]

Thank you for pointing this out Being a German living in Sweden I am used to using a VPN to access material from my home country ;-)

 

[JabbaPapa]

Oh !! I met the lovely lady at about 4:30, she's super nice.

Otherwise blimey, it's a bunch of kids.

Jesús Játo !!! And nice, looks like the recurring bed bugs problem has been cleaned out. Good to know.

That annoying group at about 25:00 seems familiar, though I guess they're just one among many.

Interesting video, though they really should have filmed it beyond just the last few K.

 

[CorinneH]

I haven't seen the documentary, but we have walked the Camino Frances three times, in 2016, 2018, and 2024. Over that short time we really noticed the worsening impact of Pilgrims on the entire route through Spain.

In 2016, we really didn't notice much rubbish, and though there was a bit of graffiti, it was mainly restricted to underpasses, near cities. We were frustrated by the organised tour groups that would be dropped off part way along the route and picked up again, to be bused, along with their suitcases etc, to their pre-booked accommodation. We had trouble finding places to stay, and realised that we would have to book in advance, for the first time on our Camino. We were disappointed that the peace and camaraderie of the Camino was disrupted.

In 2018, graffiti and garbage increased noticeably. Some idiot wrote their name, "Marion Tere", on nearly every distance marker from SJPDP to Santiago, and we noticed used toilet paper here and there. We were disgusted! Again, there were bigger crowds from Saria, but that year, we reminded ourselves that the groups had just as much right to walk their Camino as we did ours, and we decided to wish all of them, whether they responded or not, a "Buen Camino" and talk to them, if possible. Because our attitude was better, the crowds did not bother us so much. We were annoyed by the rubbish left around some monuments, and we picked up two bags of rubbish and dropped them in the next bin we found. We decided to be part of the solution to the problem.

This year, though, the impact of tourism was dramatic and quite unbelievable. There was graffiti, garbage, used toilet paper, and discarded footwear, t-shirts, broken poles...you name it...from SJPDP to Santiago de Compostela. This time, the graffiti reached a new low. Someone wrote "Jesus didn't start in Saria" on markers from SJPDP to Saria. (OMG!!! I'm pretty sure Jesus didn't walk to Santiago to view the bones of Saint James, at all, from anywhere.) The graffiti was everywhere and it was supplemented with stickers. On the approach to Ciruena, there were essentially only two shady spots to rest, under trees located at the edge of a farmer's field, beside an irrigation ditch. When we reached them, we discovered that both of those spots had essentially been used as toilets and garbage dumps. We kept moving. We wondered how disgusted the farmer must be, and we wondered how long the Spanish would be happy to host Pilgrims on their land and in their villages if that sort of disrespectful behaviour continued. The organised groups from Saria to the end were more disruptive and bigger than I'd seen in the past, but we walked into Santiago on July 24, so that was probably to be expected. They were mostly groups of young Spaniards, and they weren't disrespectful. They were having a good time, it was a holiday, and it was a week of celebration in Galicia. It's their country. At least they weren't just on their phones or playing video games, and they didn't leave their garbage everywhere, as far as we could tell. The crowds and exuberance felt a bit festive, and it bothered me much less than the rubbish and actual crap left by "Proper Pilgrims" all along the Camino Frances.

We saw on the news, at about the same time, that visitors in Barcelona were sprayed with water guns by locals who were protesting over-tourism, and we wondered how long it would be before Pilgrims on the Camino Frances would be given similar treatment. For how much longer will our Spanish hosts want to be hospitable?

Sadly, I now believe it has become necessary to give clear instruction to Pilgrims, when they first pick up their Credentiales, about how to behave. Leave nothing but footprints and take nothing but memories (and photos). Respect the environment, the people, and the customs of the country you are visiting. Have consideration for others, and treat everyone as you would like to be treated. These are things that should be common sense, but more and more, it seems they are not as common as they should be.

 

[JerryStroebele]

There was a thread posted here a year to two ago with a kind of a code of conduct for pilgrims, along the lines of leave no trace codes. Some said it wasn't necessary. Well, maybe it's time. I sure did notice more of all the above this past year. Buen Camino

 

[dougfitz]

There was a thread posted here a year to two ago with a kind of a code of conduct for pilgrims, along the lines of leave no trace codes. Some said it wasn't necessary. Well, maybe it's time. I sure did notice more of all the above this past year. Buen Camino

Here are links to the two threads where the LNT document has been discussed:

• https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...o-a-guide-to-leave-no-trace-principles.72852/
• https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...cs-for-camino-de-santiago.82800/#post-1177275

You are correct, there was a range of pushback about this, ranging from criticism of the document itself to suggesting that this guidance from LNT was inappropriate for the camino. As it stood at the time, LNT were focussed largely on wilderness activities, and were apparently unable to be flexible enough to address the different circumstances on most European pilgrimage routes, I suspect they still are.

I was critical of the document then, and having recently accessed on the LNT site, it hasn't changed. My criticisms were:

I would question whether the LNT principles are an appropriate framework if they are unable to be suitably adapted. As you have noted here, they address some matters of great importance to wilderness activities, like campfires, that are of little relevance to the environment that pilgrims walk in.

Apart from finding someone who can do a good grammatical review for you, I think the document would be benefit from losing its reliance on the imperative mood. Rather than direct what to do, explain what outcomes will support the principles and give examples of what behaviours do or don't support those outcomes. Moreover, this would allow readers to understand that there might be a range of ways in which an outcome can be achieved where the current document directs to use of just one when many suitable alternatives are available.

On this forum, we generally avoid providing specific medical advice. I think this document would benefit from doing the same. It doesn't need to avoid the issue of snoring, but just as is done later regarding insect bite treatment, it might be more appropriate to suggest getting qualified advice on the range of options, not just the one option that has been presented. I haven't checked, but I would expect most pilgrims would find a national sleep disorders association or similar they can approach in their own countries for help if they know this will be a particular problem for them.

Note, I am of a like mind to @davebugg, who said at the time:

Those who come from nations where there has been strong anti-littering and Leave No Trace outdoor programs for decades are not the target, though. It seems this is more of an issue for pilgrims where such strong messaging in nations, and even legal and ethical enforcement, has been missing.

That is not to say that pilgrims who come from countries that lack such programs always litter, or that those from nations which have strong LNT and anti-littering messaging never do. It means that broad brush assumptions of a need for LNT education for pilgrims is a bit misplaced. My guess is that this is more of an issue with individual scofflaws who are lazy and self-centered, rather than the pilgrim population in general.

Was @Faith Walker ahead of her time proposing this? I don't think so. Litter on the CF, including quite large quantities of human excreta, was a problem when I first walked back in 2010. What was unfortunate about her efforts was the apparent lack of support she got from the various confraternities she contacted trying to obtain comments.

By the time she let us know, it was already a fait accompli, and had been published by the LNT organisation. While they might want to suggest that they have an international mandate to provide guidance on protecting the outdoors, there are only four other countries that have their own LNT organisations. I suggest guidance like this needs to come from within the broader community of pilgrims, not just one person from the US, perhaps with some help from a US wilderness focussed organisation.

I would have considered using the LNT principles, but reflecting on @Faith Walker's experience and reading the LNT Guide to the International Community, I now have my doubts. The latter document seems more about LNT protecting the intellectual property they have in their logo, etc than about practical measures to spread their messages outside of their own business framework. Pity.

 

[Kathor1]

graffiti and garbage

Graffiti and garbage are an issue especially on the Camino Francés but this is not the topic of the documentary.

Even when you have not watched the short documentary you can tell from the German title "Tourimeile Jakobsweg". Tourimeile - literally touri[st] mile - is a play of words on the German word "Partymeile" - it's literally a "party mile" but it means an open air party zone in a city that is organised for special occasions or the area in a city where there are numerous dancing clubs, restaurants and bars and where people go to have a good time - an area for socialising, chatting, dancing, drinking, and full of people.

Hence the documentary shows the contrast between the touri-mile of the 100+ km from Sarria to Santiago and the very different "old" atmosphere and Camino traditions in Jesus Jato's albergue Ave Fenix in Villafranca del Bierzo.

It is about pilgrim tourism versus party tourism.

 

[JerryStroebele]

I was passed, yet again, this past October on the Camino Frances by a rowdy, boisterous very large group of what appeared to be happy middle school pilgrims. Note, I said pilgrims, not children. Later, twice I was passed by a large group of high school students on bicycles, from Ireland! Is there a better activity for them? Plenty of room on the Camino for all. Buen Camino

 

[Roland49]

As I stayed quite near the cathedral after last years CP I really do understand the concerns of the residents of the old town of SdC. The amount of larger groups of pilgrim that were shouting, chanting and playing instruments, sometimes late in the evening, were really disturbing.
Most of the bigger, organized groups were groups of religious organizations (scouts, (clerical) students, fraternities, etc.).

But on the other hand, it's part of the vibe and noone was complaining about the many music-groups playing throughout the city-centre on early Sunday morning in 2019 after my CF.

The over-commercialization by professional travel-agents that market their pilgrimage-products should be adressed and maybe managed by the authorities by giving out licenses.
Like I wrote before in comparison: it may be part of a solution of coexistance in SdC, that agencies have to be member of an association if you want to organize commercial tours, limiting the possibilities for travel-agents and securing and maintaining the infrastructure.

Overtourism should always be adressed.

 

[AK2112]

@CorrineH What time of the year did you walk in 2018? I walked SJPDP-SdC-Finesterre in april/may 2018. Except from that it was getting crowdy from Sarria to SdC, my experience was not like yours.

But when i finished Primitivo in april23, I noticed that from Melide to SdC everything was more "touristic". I can not say that I like the developement.

 

[JustOneGuy]

For the second time this year I am in Galicia to see if I like the region enough to buy a house to reside after retirement.

I am accommodating in an house right on the Primitive Way and am going (by car), every day, far and wide to see houses for sale with my wife. Therefore, I have crossed the Camino Frances several times today.

And I must say that I experienced bittersweet feelings...

On the one hand, I was pleased to see that in contrast to other parts of Spain, the villages are spent lively and well maintained. I also met many pilgrims (who knows... some of you, readers?) walking in the rain, and feeling a very strong, irrepressible sense of envy...

On the other, frankly, I was a bit bewildered.

In particular, I passed through Portomarin, which I am sure so many of you have know well, noticing the multitude of stores, albergues, supermarkets, pharmacies, exclusively dedicated to pilgrims. Most of these businesses were closed, given the season, making the town a kind of gentrified theatrical setting, which left me very puzzled. In fact, the original social and business structure of the village has been erased forever.

Certainly Camino tourism has one great virtue: being on foot, made up of people who have no intention of spending hundreds of euros a day to travel weeks after weeks, prices are still kept low, and it avoids that horrible form of overturism made up of aperitivos, parties, noise, mess, that I find in some parts of the Canary Islands, where I live. It also pollutes much less, and does not form long lines of cars turning villages into immense parking lots.

In short, on the one hand both my wife and I have a great desire to try it sooner rather than later, and on the other hand we experienced a strong feeling of estrangement from it all.

I hope it is clear that I am not so stupid as to think that everyone else is a tourist - except me! I fully understand I am... "just one guy" among many others. But I received this feeling very distinctly.