Rome to Nice Via Francigena backwards

[GavinSkull]

Hi, I would like some advice from people who have walked from Rome to France. I would like to know how the infrastructure, hostels, and general social and walking experience compares to Spain. Cost of hostels and food is my main concern, as I believe Italy is more expensive than Spain and also proably the coastal regions of France. I would like to see if I can walk to Roncevaux and then decide what other routes I would like to do from there. Last year I walked the Del Norte and '22 the Francais.

I discovered this is the end part of the Via Francigena and I would be walking backwards to the normal route. The route backwards would be the same from Rome to Massia then I would follow the coast to Genoa then Nice.

Has anyone walked this way?

 

[jungleboy]

I haven't walked it but I had an idea to do it once so I did a bit of preliminary research. A possible route could be:

1. Via Francigena (backwards): Rome - Portonetti (21 stages, 495km)
2. Sentiero Liguria: Portonetti - Ventimiglia: 30 stages, 675km)

Ventimiglia is the Italian border town close to Nice.

 

[High Endeavours]

Having already walked the Via Francigena to Rome in 2022 and from Arles to Santiago in 2018. I looked into part of the route you are considering in an effort to complete the crossing from Rome to Santiago in 2023. However after a good look at the route along the Italian and French coast I learned that it very often involves cement and paved roads through some very touristy areas. I don’t mind the road walking, but decided to walk the Way of St Francis instead, also a decent walk though more challenging than the coastal route I was considering. I’ve walked distance in France, Spain and Italy many times and always find France more expensive than the more southerly routes. Sorry, I can’t advise on pilgrim accommodation availability, but I would guess that it’s not what you are use to from your two walks in Spain. Not enough foot traffic to find dedicated pilgrim accommodation. The tourism along much of this stretch is pretty busy, I think more so than what I saw along the Norte, meaning that you will likely have to book well ahead as you go. Hope you figure it out and that you post a bit of what you learn here on the forum for others. Enjoy!

 

[High Endeavours]

I should mention that I met a Spanish fellow in a pilgrim accommodation north of Rome who was walking the Rome-Santiago route and he expected to take about 3.5 months. A friend and I have assessed the route a number of times and think that if one is capable of a high daily average with very few rest days that it could be done end to end in very close to 90 days which is a consideration for us as we live in Canada restricting us to 90 days in the EU. I also want to mention that there is a Facebook Group page on the Rome-Santiago route that you could join with more resources. See, I was pretty serious about walking this!

 

[Gioele]

Ciao Gavin Skull
Se ti può ancora interessare avere informazioni da Roma a Santiago de Compostela puoi contattarmi:
pupiettore2@gmail.com

 

[Pilgrim 122]

Hello, I am walking from Rome to Santiago I'm on the Aragones now. I walked the via francigena in reverse to start. After that I tried to follow via della costa but ended up walking on the roads which I don't mind. The Menton - Arles GR route takes you away from the coast but I had never been to the riviera so I kept on the road. Iwalked the whole italian and French riviera on pavement, some was dedicated pedestrian areas. I just kept the Mediterranean sea to my left no need to look at a map and then a nice Aperol Spritz at the end of the day.! Good luck with your plans and enjoy your camino.

 

[OZAJ]

I walked Rome to Santiago in 2012. I cannot find my "as walked" itinerary, nor my journal. The draft indicates 106 days.

Because of the diversity, probably one of the best I have walked. There was a 9 day stretch near Genoa which was not great. I only got lost once.

Costs were higher than Spain, but still affordable.

 

[JustOneGuy]

Hello, I am walking from Rome to Santiago I'm on the Aragones now. I walked the via francigena in reverse to start. After that I tried to follow via della costa but ended up walking on the roads which I don't mind. The Menton - Arles GR route takes you away from the coast but I had never been to the riviera so I kept on the road. Iwalked the whole italian and French riviera on pavement, some was dedicated pedestrian areas. I just kept the Mediterranean sea to my left no need to look at a map and then a nice Aperol Spritz at the end of the day.! Good luck with your plans and enjoy your camino.

Wow! Nice plan! How long do you expect to need to complete it?

 

[caminka]

Look up via della costa. Thay is the name of the coastal pilgrim route around the ligurian coast. There is a list of parishes and other accommodation accessible to pilgrims. In 2012, when it was being waymarked and when I walked it, it sometimes took the paved coastal way and sometimes made lovely wild climbs into hills above the coast. Always call a day in advance. I had a sleeping bag and a sleeping mat which helped a lot.

 

[Pilgrim 122]

Wow! Nice plan! How long do you expect to need to complete it?

I'm doing it 3 weeks at a time. I started in October 2022 hoping to finish this time next year God willing.!

 

[stevenbl]

I walked from Nice to Le Spezia in March/April 2024. It was a fabulous tour, extremely beautiful with wild hilly climbs, great views of the coast and fantastic Italian villages. Infrastructure is not great, and I stayed in small hotels, B&B's, but the walk is certainly well worth it.

I plan to walk La Spezia to Rome and Toulouse to Nice during 2025, at which point I will have walked from Sagres in Portugal to Rome.

There is a day by day description and all trails maps for each day at https://followingyourfeet.com/via-della-costa/

 

[Coverbid]

I walked Rome to Santiago in 2012. I cannot find my "as walked" itinerary, nor my journal. The draft indicates 106 days.

Because of the diversity, probably one of the best I have walked. There was a 9 day stretch near Genoa which was not great. I only got lost once.

Costs were higher than Spain, but still affordable.

Hi,
I am curious why the 9 day stretch near Genoa was not great? Thank you, Mike

 

[OZAJ]

Hi,
I am curious why the 9 day stretch near Genoa was not great? Thank you, Mike

I have to rely on memory here.

The route I took was close to the coast on what I think used to be the Via Augusta, which is now a modern road. It was, for me, boring.

There is an alternative route inland and parallel to the coast, which I think is the one Caminka took. I tried this for a couple of days but found it hard work, difficult to follow and a bit all over the place. Recipe for getting lost big time. This might all be different now. Remember I walked in 2012. I seem to recall a couple of cyclists reported something similar on this forum at about the same time.

Rome to SdC is a wonderful pilgrimage. If you have time, then do it. Maybe the 9-day-not-so-great section is better now. Even if it isn't, it represents less than 10% of the trip. There may be guidebooks for more of the route, but you don't need them if you have help from Mushkil Gusha, the remover of difficulties. He is there if you pay attention!!

 

[Coverbid]

I have to rely on memory here.

The route I took was close to the coast on what I think used to be the Via Augusta, which is now a modern road. It was, for me, boring.

There is an alternative route inland and parallel to the coast, which I think is the one Caminka took. I tried this for a couple of days but found it hard work, difficult to follow and a bit all over the place. Recipe for getting lost big time. This might all be different now. Remember I walked in 2012. I seem to recall a couple of cyclists reported something similar on this forum at about the same time.

Rome to SdC is a wonderful pilgrimage. If you have time, then do it. Maybe the 9-day-not-so-great section is better now. Even if it isn't, it represents less than 10% of the trip. There may be guidebooks for more of the route, but you don't need them if you have help from Mushkil Gusha, the remover of difficulties. He is there if you pay attention!!

Hi,
Thank you that is useful information. I have always kept this route in mind. Hopefully in 2025 or 2026 I will again be on the road. Thank you,

 

[stevenbl]

Personally I think that the walk to Genoa from Menton was a great walk. It is a mix of walking in the mountains, away from the coast through small villages, walking the coast and walking along the new walk/bike tunnel path, which is placed on the old railway track - the railway is being moved inland. Personally I think it was a nice split.

Don't miss the tunnel from San Lorenzo al Mare to Ospedaletti dedicated to the Giro - unfortunately I missed it .

The walk into Genoa, for the last 15 or so kms, can be bypassed.