Via Francigena - Southwark Cathedral -to- Basilica di San Pietro

[telephony]

Greetings,


We are flying into London this April and contemplating starting the Via Francigena from Southwark Cathedral. We will break the journey into four or five phases, with the first segment ending somewhere between Amettes and Arres. Our most considerable apprehension is the lack of pilgrims/community along most of the route. The second concern is seeing Efren’s difficulties and lack of accommodations in France while watching his Via Francigena videos. We would be grateful for anyone willing to give their perspective on the Calais to Jougne portion of the journey and any tips overall. Also, is anyone currently on the Via or has walked it in 2024 willing to comment on the number of pilgrims met during your pilgrimage?


My Best,

Tele

 

[lovingkindness]

Bonjour @telephony

In France when following le chemin de st Jacques or other trails, If you find that you do not have anywhere to sleep for the night go to one of the following places, present your credential and ask for help in finding a bed for the night. The french are wonderfully kind:

Le presbytère
la mairie
la gendarmerie
la bibliothèque
le café
la pharmacie
la boulangerie
l'office de tourisme
people in the street

With a little help a pilgrim may find themselves a guest at the local maison de retraite; sheltered at the relais d'urgence; sleeping in a school hall or stadium or even an honoured guest of Monsieur/Madame le maire!

Bon courage!

 

[timr]

Hello @telephony and welcome.

I would agree completely with what @lovingkindness says. I walked in 2018 and indeed there often appears to be little accommodation in France. But it somehow emerges! Mairie and tourist office very very helpful.

There is quite a lot of church-based accommodation. eg the diocesan offices in Arras, and as above several old presbytères (the old priest's house). There are some very helpful local groups - in Chalons-en Champagne, in the church, who will give you lists of families, and again in Reims in the cathedral.
Also though i never camp, I stayed three times in campsites which had accommodation set aside for walking pilgrims.

And there are a lot of monasteries (for men and for women) dotted about France, I think I stayed in four.

An exceptionally useful source for France (and in fact now, for the past two years I think it continues further on) is the printed booklet from the French VF association available in English from Pilgrims to Rome (The English Confraternity). It is not available online, because it has many contact details of private individuals.

It is invaluable.

Booklet of Accommodation and Services - Canterbury to Rome – Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome

Booklet of Accommodation and Facilities in France New 2024 edition Paperback, A5 size 90 pages, black & white Printed in France "This is made of paper, but is pure gold" - Sandy Brown

pilgrimstorome.org.uk

And well worth joining the Confraternity also. https://pilgrimstorome.org.uk/

 

[André Walker]

Maybe the accomodation list from https://www.viefrancigene.org/en can be helpful?

https://www.viefrancigene.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/visit_vf_france_eng_2024.pdf

 

[domigee]

It is also a good idea (actually it is expected) to phone at least a day before so they know to expect you, essential if they are providing food as well.
On the French part of the Via Francigena, the places to eat are few and far between (at least they were when I walked it in 2014) unless you are in a town. Even then, if you arrive after 1.30 pm, you may find the restaurants closed.
Do ask when you reserve a bed if they can provide a meal. Also best to carry some food with you for breakfast/lunch. It gets easier once in Italy.
I didn’t meet any other pilgrims until reaching the col du Grand St Bernard.

 

[dick bird]

We are flying into London this April and contemplating starting the Via Francigena from Southwark Cathedral.

Possibly a silly question, but you do know about the Schengen visa limits?

 

[timr]

Oh and by the way, the confraternity has been developing route from Southwark to Canterbury.
This was mentioned in the current newsletter.

Francigena Britannica – Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome

A Francigena Extension from London to Canterbury The number of pilgrims walking from Canterbury to Rome on the Via Francigena has increased markedly in the past decade, and the trustees of the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome (CPR) decided to investigate the viability of re-establishing the...

pilgrimstorome.org.uk

 

[timr]

It is also a good idea (actually it is expected) to phone at least a day before so they know to expect you, essential if they are providing food as well.
On the French part of the Via Francigena, the places to eat are few and far between (at least they were when I walked it in 2014) unless you are in a town. Even then, if you arrive after 1.30 pm, you may find the restaurants closed.
Do ask when you reserve a bed if they can provide a meal. Also best to carry some food with you for breakfast/lunch. It gets easier once in Italy.
I didn’t meet any other pilgrims until reaching the col du Grand St Bernard.

Wise words (of course) from @domigee

Making contact ahead is really important. Whatsapp is generally the most useful, email not very effective. Sometime FB direct message too. Obviously messaging will allow you to use translation app.

Well worth learning enough French to just make essential arrangements. And you will quite often find (if you stay in homes, which was always very enjoyable and rather humbling) that very little English is spoken.

 

[Corned Beef]

Possibly a silly question, but you do know about the Schengen visa limits?

And more recently for the UK, there is the need for a Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA) similar to the US one. Cost is £10.

Check when you can get an electronic travel authorisation (ETA)

List of nationalities that will soon be able to apply for an ETA.

www.gov.uk

 

[Harington]

Greetings,


We are flying into London this April and contemplating starting the Via Francigena from Southwark Cathedral. We will break the journey into four or five phases, with the first segment ending somewhere between Amettes and Arres. Our most considerable apprehension is the lack of pilgrims/community along most of the route. The second concern is seeing Efren’s difficulties and lack of accommodations in France while watching his Via Francigena videos. We would be grateful for anyone willing to give their perspective on the Calais to Jougne portion of the journey and any tips overall. Also, is anyone currently on the Via or has walked it in 2024 willing to comment on the number of pilgrims met during your pilgrimage?


My Best,

Tele

I think the "lack of accommodation in France" complaint is now a myth! There is plenty. Please check out https://pilgrimstorome.org.uk/shop/guide-books/new-booklet-of-accommodation-and-services-in-france/. I think people shy away from using pilgrim hosts because they fear their lack of French will be a handicap. For me staying with pilgrim host families offered the best experiences of the whole VF. You have nearly six months, so why not learn/brush up a little basic French out of courtesy and you'll be able to communicate.

 

[Tandem Graham]

I walked from London to Rome in 2023, one of the most enriching experiences of my life.

From London to Besancon, I encountered 11 other pilgrims altogether, mostly for just one or two days or evenings each. The numbers increased from there onwards, but never reached the numbers found on popular French and Spanish Compostela routes.

I used the Lightfoot Guides to the VF supplemented by the invaluable listing from the English confraternity CPR, of accommodation providers, including the wonderfully welcoming host families. I speak some French, but even without linguistic proficiency, the generous hospitality provided in family homes is not to be missed!

There were some empty days in the NorthEast of France, where I spoke to no-one from breakfast until supper, but that provided precious oportunities for reflection and internal monologue and proper attention to the sights, sounds and smells of my surroundings. The battlefield memorials of the First World War are moving and the cathedral cities offer respite from the quiet solitude.

I second the suggestion that carrying picnic items is very worthwhile since lunch facilities can be rare.

I have watched Efren's videos of his VF journey. His drone photography is magnificent but:
His route was part determined by his need for a wheeled trolley for his equipment;
He didn't have the accommodation guide;
He had zero French, spoken or reading;
It was six years ago - pilgrim numbers are increasing, even on the French stages.

From Besancon to Aosta, there are more pilgrims and more facilities, but also more steep ascents and technical paths.

The Po Valley offers more solitude and long flat stages, whereas the Tuscan sections are now attracting many more pilgrims. Eating well throughout Italy is not difficult and almost always affordable!

In short, if you hope to rediscover the Camino experience which you found in Spain, you may be disappointed. However the Via Francigena provides a memorable and diverse set of pilgrim experiences.

Bon Chemin!

 

[Martin-B]

I also walked from Canterbury to Rome in 2023 and it's very different to a Spanish Camino, in France there is far more solitude which I actually liked and you can occasionally spend the entire day in your own company, french villages can often feel deserted until the evening apart from the dogs barking behind fences and one very vocal 'guard goose'. The best bit of advice I received is that most french cemeteries have a stand pipe for water, not all but that helped me out on a few occasions. Arras is a beautiful town and if you can leave a little time for the The National Necropolis of Notre-Dame-de-Lorette as it's a sobering location very much worth a visit. Don't miss the international memorial off to one side. The other discovery is that you will almost certainly not follow the official route religiously, on a few occasions locals would advise avoiding certain 'muddy bogs' and point out simpler and often more sensible options. All in all it's a terrific walk. I think previous messages have covered accommodation pretty well, I carried a tent and used a mix of campsites, abbeys, hostels and private houses but I also had to use hotels from time to time but that's because I hate planning ahead too much. I would recommend Cicerones guides by Sandy Brown split into 3 parts it covers the entire journey from Canterbury to Rome. I'm planning to do the entire journey again next year for charity and starting at Southwark is a possibility if time allows, though it may well be a Canterbury start as I'm still in the planning stage.

Good luck and Bon chemin

 

[Paul-CH]

I walked spring 2024 from Canterbury to Jougne and did meet only eight people along my way though France. Some parts are very lonely and no drinks and food on the day. Have a look at my blog elcaminohike containing my Route-Planing with used accommodations.

 

[Madamjoy]

Greetings,


We are flying into London this April and contemplating starting the Via Francigena from Southwark Cathedral. We will break the journey into four or five phases, with the first segment ending somewhere between Amettes and Arres. Our most considerable apprehension is the lack of pilgrims/community along most of the route. The second concern is seeing Efren’s difficulties and lack of accommodations in France while watching his Via Francigena videos. We would be grateful for anyone willing to give their perspective on the Calais to Jougne portion of the journey and any tips overall. Also, is anyone currently on the Via or has walked it in 2024 willing to comment on the number of pilgrims met during your pilgrimage?


My Best,

Tele

I recommend joining the Via Francigena Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome Facebook page. Currently several people are walking and posting info about accommodation etc. The page has several tabs with some of the info you need. If you join the group you will also find links to groups offering support to pilgrims on the VF.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Possibly a silly question, but you do know about the Schengen visa limits?

It was my impression that the OP meant that they were coming back at different times when they said they would break it up into four or five phases. Although it seems that the OP has disappeared for now....