LIVE from the Camino Camino de Girona/Català Fall 2024

[setmeravelles]

Here I am in Figueres, on the Camino de Girona, after finally deciding on this year’s Camino after lots of issues with plans falling apart for other Caminos. I’ll be continuing on in Montserrat on the Zaragoza variant of the Camino, saving the Huesca one for another time.

I won’t post daily most likely, but I will try to give updates or mention things that could be useful.

I arrived to Llança via train from Girona, the same one that starts in Barcelona. Being a September weekday it was kind of dead, and the port restaurants pretty expensive. I stayed near the tourist office in Gran Sol, which had a lovely huge dog who was complaining about the heat. I spent some time backpack free on GR 92 along the coast.

Friday I woke up, went to find breakfast and then started about 740. It’s a long, hard climb up to Sant Pere de Rodes (which will also be a long hard way down. Not quite as difficult as San Juan de la Peña from Jaca and down to Santa Cecelia on the Aragonés, but what is? It was worth it. With my luck I arrived just as a tourist bus did…still an amazing place.

Long, steep beautiful descent into Pau. Pau has a restaurant that opens around 1 pm but nothing else this Friday. Vilajuïga has a few options for food and coffee. I missed Pension Xavi, so not sure if it’s still an option to sleep. I just didn’t see it if it was there. I caught the bus to Figueres where I am spending two nights.

I later took the train back to Vilajuïga. This etapa (or second part of a long first day) was pleasant but nothing special. It’s almost entirely road walking or paved farm tracks, and for a Saturday there was traffic. Pedrat didn’t have anything, Mansa had a Civic Centro bar, Perelada has a few more options. I got there at the same time as the tourist bus again! I stopped in Vilabertran for coffee. I liked Vilabertran more than I thought I would, and it’s just 1.7 more to Figueres city limits on a gravel path.

Teatre Museu Dalí was so packed I couldn’t see anything…I ended up walking more this afternoon to visit the Castell Sant Ferran, which I must recommend. Huge castle and fortress a km or so above the town.

At Pensió Bartis, 35€ single with bath. Basic but clean and near the bus and regular train station. Perfect for a peregrino or peregrina.

GR 11 from Llança to Sant Pere is well marked, and so is the Camino from there so far. I haven’t seen an arrow in Figueres yet though…it’s marked on mapy.cz and I have a few Wikilocs so not too worried.

I’m glad I split it into two starting out.

 

[caminka]

I will be reading your reports with lots of interest because this camino is on my priority camino list. Thank you for all the useful details.

Bo cami! (Is this the correct catala version?)

 

[setmeravelles]

I will be reading your reports with lots of interest because this camino is on my priority camino list. Thank you for all the useful details.

Bo cami! (Is this the correct catala version?)

Close! “Bon camí” in Catalán, which I actually studied, and “gràcies” or “merci”

Let me know if there is specific information you’d like to know and I’ll try to find out.

I’m trying to comment on things I saw in the mega thread planning post, but I miss a lot, like the castle in Pontos today. (No clue how!)

Wifi spotty at Pension Fluvia tonight so will wait to update (Price update: it’s now 45€ for single with private bathroom, shared bathroom is cheaper though!)

 

[setmeravelles]

Etapa 3: Figueres to Bàscara. Road walking for about 4 km or so, then alternated with some farm tracks. Follow Carrer San Pau (I saw it as Calle San Pablo once) out of town. Markers on ground on the right side. Arrows usually there when needed.

Centre civic bar was open in Borassa on a Sunday morning! I found another path on mapy dot cz that had a nearby waterfall marked, and it looked the same distance, so on a whim I followed it. Really nice forest trail that broke the monotony of Catalan fields with mountains in the distance, and I ran into some locals. The waterfall was a short distance…and completely dry. Ah well, I still enjoyed it. The red line I was following had a small bit of bushwhacking that I could have avoided if I went the main trail to the road, but I was keen on the red line. Happy to see on the actual Camino after that spontaneous detour.

Bridge into Bàscara doesn’t seem to end.

The entire family was helping out for Sunday lunch at Pensió Fluvia. Menu was 21, but I had a good Plato combinado instead for 11€. They close the bar on evenings and on Mondays. The Bar Plaza in the main plaza is open Sun and has food.

There are two variants out of Bàscara. More later as I’m pretty tired. I hope this makes sense through my exhaustion!

I’m enjoying this Camino, but at the same time, it doesn’t feel like a Camino for whatever reason. I’m currently in Girona, and I asked how to get to the Carrilet and then eventually explained that I was actually doing the Camino. The guy was impressed (he knew about it) and said he didn’t think it was marked (it isn’t in Girona city as peregrina2000 explained in her post). I said it was way better marked than some parts of the Olvidado, and he was really interested in that one.

 

[setmeravelles]

Quick question. Hope I need not have asked it.

Does anyone know if the route from Olot/Sant Esteve d’en Blas to L’Esquirol would be dangerous in the rain? Forecast isn’t looking good for Thursday, which is when I would be doing that stage.

I have arrived to Amer via el Carrilet. In Girona, if you find your way to Parc de la Devesa, then the Plaça Assemblea de Catalunya roundabout, that’s where it starts. Fantastic day. Someone tried to tell me I was going the wrong way to reach Santiago and all I could do was laugh. Another local showed up to back me up and she was really interested in where it goes.

I’m probably going to wait and write everything up when I’m finished. I got ambitious hoping I could give updates on the ground. I’ll be able to post more pics then!

 

[Josep Montserrat]

Quick question. Hope I need not have asked it.

Does anyone know if the route from Olot/Sant Esteve d’en Blas to L’Esquirol would be dangerous in the rain? Forecast isn’t looking good for Thursday, which is when I would be doing that stage.

I have arrived to Amer via el Carrilet. In Girona, if you find your way to Parc de la Devesa, then the Plaça Assemblea de Catalunya roundabout, that’s where it starts. Fantastic day. Someone tried to tell me I was going the wrong way to reach Santiago and all I could do was laugh. Another local showed up to back me up and she was really interested in where it goes.

I’m probably going to wait and write everything up when I’m finished. I got ambitious hoping I could give updates on the ground. I’ll be able to post more pics then!

Hi Setmarevelles,
I don't think so, but it depends on the amount of rain you have and your experience in the mountains.

Pay attention on this point. Turn right, here begins the climb of Les Marrades.


You can see what the path is like, but that day it wasn't raining.

Bon Camí Pelegrí.

 

[caminka]

Let me know if there is specific information you’d like to know and I’ll try to find out.

I can give you a list?!

Accommodation options (budget) ans prices are always useful. Then shops and water points. Romanesque buildings, especially carved corbels and capitals, anything related to pilgrims passing through, anything medieval frescoed or painted (eg. ceilings), medieval bridges, reliefs, any megalithic monuments, petroglyphs, cute buildings, quirky buildings, local curiosities (like the baby drawer in the church in Arres, for example), local lore or legends, waterfalls, beautiful nature, old trees, rock formations, vistas, ancient stone-paved roads, veggie dishes...

Er

 

[AlanSykes]

Does anyone know if the route from Olot/Sant Esteve d’en Blas to L’Esquirol would be dangerous in the rain?

I did it on a beautiful dry autumn day and it was very hard work. I would not have liked to do it in the wet (and I am an autumn/winter camino walker from England's wettest county, so very used to wet).

I can give you a list?!

Don't miss the wonderful museum in Vic



The mermaid in the cloisters in Girona



And, above all, the astonishing, virtually intact and perfect romanesque joy of la Canònica de Santa Maria de Vilabertran, just before Figueras

 

[caminka]

I did it on a beautiful dry autumn day and it was very hard work. I would not have liked to do it in the wet (and I am an autumn/winter camino walker from England's wettest county, so very used to wet).

View attachment 178394


Don't miss the wonderful museum in Vic

View attachment 178395

The mermaid in the cloisters in Girona

View attachment 178396

And, above all, the astonishing, virtually intact and perfect romanesque joy of la Canònica de Santa Maria de Vilabertran, just before Figueras

View attachment 178400View attachment 178401View attachment 178399View attachment 178398View attachment 178404

I visited Vic's medieval art museum this summer, marvelous. Everything else is still waiting that I go on this camino.

 

[setmeravelles]

Good news is rain should be ending by six tomorrow morning so I should be able to do the etapa weather wise.

 

[setmeravelles]

The etapa from Sant Esteve is now one of my top ten Camino days ever, if not top 5..just stunning. I then made it to Vic yesterday. Currently doing a rest weekend in Girona (Vic and Manresa were booked up today, and Girona is a top ten Iberian locale for me, so…)

I didn’t want to admit it to myself, but my foot has been giving me some problems (plantar fasciitis), so I’m most likely doing shorter stages and busing if I have to to avoid further injury (hoping not to need to) I was not going for a Compostela anyway this time around (ending in Zaragoza). I’m most likely ending in Alcarràs, just past Lleida, now. I am sort of upset, but at the same time would rather not worsen the injury…I’ll do the parts I missed in the future when I have my foot at 100%. Planning for Manresa-Montserrat on Monday but will shorten if necessary. Sigh.

At any rate I’ll try my best to answer Caminka’s questions once I have a laptop (there may be a different route out of L’Esquirol that has waterfalls that is on Mapy.cz! Pastisseria Prat in Roda de Ter! Hostal Collsacsbra in L’Esquirol gives a pilgrim’s discount! Bridges in L’Esquirol and Vic! Etc.) along with give a better day by day. iPad writing is hard!

 

[Pilgrim9]

Interesting thread, thank you.

Sorry to hear you are suffering from plantar fasciitis (PF). I get that from time to time and it can be cripplingly painful. If it is impeding your progress and you need emergency mitigation, the following might worth evaluating. Otherwise, just disregard it.

In my experience, with my feet, very good arch support helps to avoid PF and to speed recovery from it.

When I start to experience PF en route, I take a strip of some soft but not-overly-compressible material, cut or tear it to fit the inside width of my footwear, then fold its length repeatedly to make a sort of pillow about 3 inches / 7.5 cm long, with tapered ends, and of whatever total thickness I judge will provide the needed additional arch support. Then I insert it into to my footwear at the location where arch support is needed, and I continue walking.

I am not prescribing, just describing.

Hoping your pilgrimage is fulfilling and problem-free.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

When I start to experience PF en route, I take a strip of some soft but not-overly-compressible material, [and make an arch support].

I've done this myself in early stages of two caminos. It worked wonderfully for the rest of the way.

 

[peregrina2000]

Currently doing a rest weekend in Girona (Vic and Manresa were booked up today, and Girona is a top ten Iberian locale for me, so…)

I love Girona too. So sorry to hear about the plantar fasciitis. I really hope it improves. Buen Camino.

 

[setmeravelles]

Checking in with an update now that I have a bit of time.

The rest weekend did me a lot of good. I ended up skipping the etapas between Vic and Manresa and Monday climbed up Montserrat. At some point near Sant Bernat I took a PR and ended up where the road goes down the next day not far from Santa Cecelia. Oops! I was following arrows…just not the right ones…

Yesterday I started out on the PR alternative on Gronze…beautiful, but very windy and added an hour and a half to the day. Had to scramble a couple times. Arrived to Castellolí, and I decided to take the bus to Igualada to avoid the slog…and my foot was hurting a bit.

Today managed Igualada to La Panadella fine. Hostal Bayona is ok. The last 6 km on the NII-A were torture. But I enjoyed it.

I’ve made the decision to end in Alcarràs on Monday though, so I can call this my Catalán adventure. I’ll be renting a car to finally visit Vall d’Aran, at the top of my bucket list!

I do have a pad that velcros over the arch of my foot that helps a lot. I was taping it in a way that was making my ankle and tendons hurt last week. After resting and doing a simpler tape it usually only hurts after standing after resting like usual.

Also it’s starting to feel more like a Camino. Alas a shorter one than I wanted. But it’s still a Camino!

 

[setmeravelles]

I have arrived to Alcarràs! Can Peixan is one of the friendliest places I’ve stayed this Camino. As usual, it’s a very anticlimactic end.

The river walk out of Lleida was a great way to end this one. SO MANY WATER FOWL AND STORKS! I’ll pick up Alcarràs-Zaragoza on a prelude to Castellano Aragonés or on the Ignaciano in the future.

I’m glad I had a day off in Lleida. It gave me time to visit Balaguer, which was lovely. I do believe there is a path so it could be possible to do the variant to Lleida and then go up to Balaguer to get on the Huesca variant to get to San Juan de la Peña since Linyola sometimes is booked.

I’ve been to Lleida twice before, but this time I really enjoyed it.

That said, so many of these pueblos lack charm…some stunning scenery, especially on the Girona section…but…it was Etapa 12 when I received my first “Bon Camino, ultreia!”. And so much road walking…

Foot is doing better, but not healed or anything.

I’ll pick up my laptop on Wednesday and will start writing up some reflections and daily info since it’s so much easier to type on that and not my iPad or phone.

 

[Carolina Loh]

Hello peregrinos,
I’m about to start tomorrow the route Girona -Vic-Montserrat. I’m a 51 year old woman travelling alone and I never had a problem with that, but today a couple of catalan friends showed some concern when they heard I’m doing it alone.
Can I please ask your opinion/experience? Does the way feel “unsafe”?

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Can I please ask your opinion/experience? Does the way feel “unsafe”?

As I man I wasn't looking out for the same things you were but you're probably going to be okay. Doing a lunch break on the stage heading to Monserrat some wild boars showed up. They gave me a good look-over and I gave one back to them and then they wandered away. There are a lot of areas dug up by them so they aren't rare; be prepared for a possible meetup.

 

[peregrina2000]

Does the way feel “unsafe”?

Hi, @Carolina Loh, I walked this route in 2015 as a 65 year old woman and never had a moment of concern. What kind of concern did your friends express?

 

[Carolina Loh]

Thank you, Laurie, you’re opinion is valuable to me.
I think they are concerned the paths will be too remote and I’ll be in their eyes “helpless”.
Thanks for taking the time to reply, I really appreciate it.

 

[Carolina Loh]

As I man I wasn't looking out for the same things you were but you're probably going to be okay. Doing a lunch break on the stage heading to Monserrat some wild boars showed up. They gave me a good look-over and I gave one back to them and then they wandered away. There are a lot of areas dug up by them so they aren't rare; be prepared for a possible meetup.

Thanks for warning me. I had an encounter with them in Italy once, and the same, each followed their path. But I admit I was a bit scared at first.

 

[Carolina Loh]

As I man I wasn't looking out for the same things you were but you're probably going to be okay. Doing a lunch break on the stage heading to Monserrat some wild boars showed up. They gave me a good look-over and I gave one back to them and then they wandered away. There are a lot of areas dug up by them so they aren't rare; be prepared for a possible meetup.

Thanks for the reply, Rick, I appreciate it. I’ll follow more at ease now.

 

[setmeravelles]

Hello peregrinos,
I’m about to start tomorrow the route Girona -Vic-Montserrat. I’m a 51 year old woman travelling alone and I never had a problem with that, but today a couple of catalan friends showed some concern when they heard I’m doing it alone.
Can I please ask your opinion/experience? Does the way feel “unsafe”?

It’s not any less safe than any other Camino. People in Spain often show concern for women doing any Camino alone, I’ve heard, and the comment may be out if that, or also jealousy. You’re never too far away from people (maybe 15 km at most from a pueblot), my phone almost always had service, and if you’re an experienced hiker, then there is no reason for concern. Just use the same precautions you normally would. Bon Camí!

 

[Carolina Loh]

It’s not any less safe than any other Camino. People in Spain often show concern for women doing any Camino alone, I’ve heard, and the comment may be out if that, or also jealousy. You’re never too far away from people (maybe 15 km at most from a pueblot), my phone almost always had service, and if you’re an experienced hiker, then there is no reason for concern. Just use the same precautions you normally would. Bon Camí!

Thank you so much. Today was the first day and it felt great and perfectly safe. I think indeed it was a bit of a”over concern”.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thank you so much. Today was the first day and it felt great and perfectly safe. I think indeed it was a bit of a”over concern”.

Not sure if you enjoy posting live from the camino, @Carolina Loh, but some of us would really enjoy following along. I also walked (and loved) the Girona - Vic route, even though the Amigos of Girona lectured me sternly that it was a “made up” camino and blamed the Generalitat for using the camino to bring in tourists. The really silly thing was that they had not marked the exit from Girona out of principle, yet were willing to meet with me the night before I left Girona to show me the way to go — if I remember correctly, it took me through a lovely area just filled with local garden plots.

Not sure if you are into detours, but on the way into Vic, you can head over to the monastery at Sant Pere de Casseres, which is just amazing. And on the way you will come across some neolithic sites, including a sacrificial altar. My description is on this thread.

Buen camino, Carolina!

 

[setmeravelles]

Ok, back at home and finally have time to start writing things up. My laptop power cable died, and I was busy with the road trip through the Pyrenees that replaced the last few days from Alcarràs to Zaragoza.

General thoughts...

This was the least Camino-like Camino I have ever experienced. I've been trying to figure out why exactly I never really felt like I was on a Camino. It wasn't the solitude--Camino de Olvidado was just as isolated (if not more so), but I always felt like I was on a Camino, even when I diverted to the newly designated Camino Allerano. Was it the issues with plantar fasciitis? Maybe. Was it how it's been pieced together and invented, as the Amics in Girona explained to nuestra estimada peregrina2000? Maybe. It could also be going through so many touristy spots as a peregrino that gave it that off feeling.

Maybe if I had done Laurie's detour to San Pere outside Vic instead of going straight from L'Esquirol to Vic...

I also will say that this would be perfect for bicigrinos, other than that first day ascent into Sant Pere de Rodes. Starting out from Pau or taking an alternative from Llança/Port del Selva could make this the perfect biked Camino. I wouldn't recommend this one as a first Camino though. I wasn't in any end stage that didn't have shops and places to sleep and eat, although there were times the cocina was closed in the bars in the pueblos, especially on the Lleida variant. I'll mention which ones in the daily posts.

A few days had some dangerous intersections (I especially remember going from Bàscara to Orriols and the day climbing into Montserrat I had to be very cautious.) Lots of road walking on busier than I like roads.

The Camino de Girona is especially beautiful. I loved the first day, the Carrilet, the time in Girona, the Camí Ral...I'd visited Montserrat on two prior occasions, but I did enjoy climbing on foot for a change. Despite not feeling like a Camino, I would recommend the Camino de Girona...Camí Català, not as much...when I look back at my pictures, I smile and know I enjoyed it. Many have said the Huesca variant is pretty "meh" until the Huesca province. The Lleida variant is pretty "meh" at least until Alcarràs. I missed the Monegros though, which I was looking forward to. Whenever I get to the Ignaciano

I think I left off in Bàscara...

 

[setmeravelles]

Bàscara-Girona.

Left Bàscara about 7 am--pastisseria/panadería open early right on the Camino option that goes through Orriols, Viladasens and Cervià de Ter. There are two Camino variants out of Bàscara, and I'm not sure about the differences between them. They appear to meet up in Medinyà. No bars or cafés in Orriols or Viladasenas (Orriols has a few interesting farm monuments). I found something in Cervià de Ter (and a cool monastery). Cervià also has a castle, though they were working on the road up to the castle this end of September Monday. Due to my foot aching and selfishly wanting more time in Girona ( ), I caught the bus from Cervià to Girona. Cervià also has a small shop. Hotel Europa, single about 70€ (Girona is expensive! Pensión Borràs was booked up that day but is also about 70 for a private bathroom, 50-60 for the shared one..it's a nice pensión, Europa is a nice hotel and close to the stations). Girona has everything. Cafetería Pont de Pedra usually has a decent menú del día that isn't so expensive.

I would definitely plan on a rest day in Girona as it is a long day from Bàscara and there is so much to see in Girona.

Girona-Amer. The infamous Carrilet is awesome! Find your way to west end of Parque de la Devesa and the Plaça de l'Assemblea de Catalunya, and the Carrilet starts here, goes through several gardens. While the Carrilet doesn't go through the pueblos, you can detour off them into the towns. I went into Bescanó for a second breakfast (they have shops) and then Anglès for their castle (if my memory is correct) and churches. Nice town and has a lot of services. Right after Anglès, someone tried to tell me I was going the wrong way to Santiago (which, directionally, sure, but the Camino was correct even if not heading west to Santiago there!), and someone had to tell him that I was going the right direction. Had a good menú del día at Restaurant Can Quer near El Pastorial, and then continued on to Amer, where the restaurant was closed on Tuesday. I stayed at that restaurant, Fonda Giralt (30€), which is open for accommodation but not food on Tuesdays. There are other bars and shops in Amer.

I'm going to mention this so people are aware: This is a very pro Catalan Independence area of Spain. They were so excited that a guiri spoke some català, so if you know a few basic words, it'll be very appreciated.

Amer-Olot. It was a cloudy day, but it was still beautiful. Fonda Giralt was open for breakfast at 7. The Bar Restaurant La Caseta did give some weird vibes with wine and big meals around 9 am...but it was a good stop. The views right out of Les Planes d'Hostoles were fantastic. I loved the next town, Sant Feliu de Pallerols, with a river/waterfalls/pond in the centre of town. I ended up catching the bus from here to Olot instead of Sant Esteve as it started to rain heavily while I was inside a bar having coffee right next to the bus stop (and the bus arrived just as I stepped out). It wasn't raining in Olot though! I loved the hike up to the volcano there. I stayed at Hostal Sant Bernat, who told me I would have got a cheaper deal had I called instead of booking online (had an e-sim that didn't allow calls...). 60,66 on outskirts of town. Rained arrived to Olot around 7:30 that evening. Sant Esteve d'En Bas does have an albergue (not a municipal though) if you don't want to make the detour to Olot. It's about 10 extra km from Sant Esteve.

Sant Esteve d'En Bas-L'Esquirol is one of my fave Camino days ever...will start with that next time!

 

[setmeravelles]

Sant Esteve d'en Bas-L'Esquirol.

I caught the bus at 8:30 from Olot--if you're choosing to stay in Olot for the volcanos, there are various buses but confirm schedule at the bus station as not all of them run all year long. Also, buy the ticket at the bus station and not on board. I had my second coffee in Sant Esteve before setting off. The three km or so to Els Hostalets d'en Bas go through flat farmland, and there is a bar/restaurant with "esmorzars de forquilla" (a bigger breakfast meal than typical in Spain) that I skipped because it looked pretty packed and I was anxious to get to the mountains.

Beautiful and steep (though I found it a little bit easier than the ascent to Sant Pere de Rodes) mountain trail along the Camí Ral. It reminded me why I loved hiking and Caminos so much...I didn't see a soul. I thought it would be like San Adrian on the Vasco/Vía de Bayona, but on a Thursday I was alone, except for the many birds (there is a raptor/bird of prey rehabilitation area along the trail). Some interesting rock formations too. I thought Cantonigròs was closer than it was, but I still got there for a 15€ menú del día at Can Puntí (terraza was closed that day). There is a hostal in Cantonigrós, and another bar/restaurant in town. I continued on to L'Esquirol. The descent wasn't bad but a bit muddy. L'Esquirol has a beautiful medieval bridge at the entrance to the pueblo. Hostal Collsacabra was 45€ with a peregrino descuento, and I had a balcony. (He asked if I preferred a balcony or a TV in the room.)

Trivia from my Catalán friend: The word "esquirol" (scab worker/someone who crosses the picket lines during a strike) in Spanish does indeed come from this pueblo, as during a strike in a nearby town the only people willing to work came from L'esquirol. (In Catalán it also means squirrel (ardilla in Spanish)).

L'Esquirol-Vic. I somehow got on a non-Camino route as I thought it was the Camino when I looked on mapy--it looks like there may be another one that goes by waterfalls, but I didn't take that one :-/ I was back on the official Camino after about 3 km thanks to one of the Wikiloc tracks. (You also have the variant that will take you to Sant Pere de Casseres, which I was going to stop at on the post Camino road trip but didn't as it was a pretty bad rain storm when I drove through the area).

It was mostly farm tracks that day or road walking. I stopped in La Masia de Rodes, which I thought was already Roda de Ter, and the camarera was surprised (and interested) that there was a Camino nearby. Roda de Ter has a really cool bridge at the exit, and Patisseria Prat is right on the Camino for napolitanas or whatever you want to satisfy the sweet tooth. I did lose the arrows but somehow got back on track without knowing how. I had been to Vic before and wasn't impressed then or now for whatever reason. Another medieval type bridge at the entrance to town about 1.5 km before the outskirts though! Stayed at the overpriced Hotel J. Balmes on the outskirts of town. I wish I had known about the Seminary that might offer accommodation beforehand (it was full).

Bus to Girona Sat morning, then to Manresa, and my foot was doing much better after resting. I will have to find a time to pick up Vic-Manresa. Manresa has a bridge, which you see on the way out of town on the Camino. In Manresa, Hostal Masia which was also overpriced and 20€ more than when I stayed there in 2022...Manresa has some nice views and a few churches to explore (churches/cathedrals/ermitas/basilicas etc all run together for me, sorry I can't be more use than to say they're there!)

I did stop at the Oficina de turismo for a stamp as Masia was auto-check in on Sundays, and they had me register a book for peregrinos. They have a different one for Camino Ignaciano.

Monday was another beautiful day up to Montserrat. Easier than Sant Pere de Rodes and Camí Ral. It starts out along the river. I missed some arrows in Castellgalí. The Bar Montserrat has a great terraza and decently priced café amb llet and tostada. Views of Montserrat all the way along. Mas Reig (I think, if I can read my handwriting ) has some great views. Somewhere along the way I got on the road and took a PR at Sant Bernet to get away from all the tour buses speeding up, and then once again on the road going the opposite way of the arrows for the next day.

Montserrat is extremely touristy and the prices reflect that. I'd been before, but I had never gone in the monastery. Went to vespers at 6:45.

Montserrat at night and in the mist is an experience.

I noted that sometimes in life we have to go backward to go forward, as I had backtracked to Girona, but then was able to go forward much easier even climbing Montserrat than I had the previous week.

The next day's descent to Igualada: I started off on the GR alternative mentioned in Gronze, and while it didn't add much to the distance, it added more to the time. But it was worth it for the views. However, with the wind, I didn't feel it was the best circumstances to do this variant (I had to scramble a couple of times), so I switched to the road at Sta Cecilia and was met with all the tourbuses headed to Montserrat as it was already 9:30...I was so glad to head off road after 11km total, but the rocks are a bit steep to climb there. Sant Pau de la Guardia has a great restaurant to stamp and recharge with coffee, tea, or whatever. At weekends they have a hotel too to break up the day. Then Castellolí at 18 km has shops and bars/restaurants. There are a few dangerous intersections along the way. I caught the bus to rest my foot. Igualada has all services. Hotel America is another overpriced hotel at the edge of town. There are alternatives though, including an albergue. Hostal Canaletas told me to email or whatsapp when my friend called for me, and when I did, they never replied...

My recommendation if you start out at Montserrat is to arrive the day before to do the GR 172 variant that same day to enjoy it and have less weight on your back (and also have time to see all the things at Montserrat, of course), then do the Camino down.

I'll be back with the rest later. Thanks for reading and hope this helps anyone wanting to do this Camino in the future

 

[lesmac]

Thanks so much for your notes and descriptions. I am hoping to walk from Port de la Selva in April 2025 and your insights are really helpful. Looking forward to your next report!
Buen camino

 

[peregrina2000]

Trivia from my Catalán friend: The word "esquirol" (scab worker/someone who crosses the picket lines during a strike) in Spanish does indeed come from this pueblo, as during a strike in a nearby town the only people willing to work came from L'esquirol. (In Catalán it also means squirrel (ardilla in Spanish)).

That’s a great bit of local history about L’Esquirol! When I walked (and stayed in the same place and also had a balcony), there was still a fair amount of confusion about the name of the town. Since Catalán was forbidden during the Franco years, this town was named Santa María de Corcó. I walked in 2015, a year after they changed it back to L’Esquirol.

 

[setmeravelles]

Igualada-La Panadella. There was a rainbow on the way out of town which made the walk out of Igualada a little bit more bearable. Along a park, stopped at a café on the edge of town for a second café amb llet and the camarera was curious about the Camino. It rained a few drops while there--it was one of those days where by the time I got the rain cover on my backpack the sun was back out. There is an ermita soon after that. The Camino goes uphill and through never ending housing developments.

Jorba was a nice surprise. There isn't a lot there, castle ruins on a hill and a few bars. I stopped at the first bar, which looked a few decades there, and was met with friendly people and good, cheap tostada. There may have been a shop--there is a gas station about 7 km after Jorba.

Then the bidigorria/carril bici/bike lane for a while. I saw two peregrinas going the opposite direction on the Ignaciano. Santa María del Camí was pretty empty, but there is a picnic area on the way out of town that is a good place to rest. I regretted not stopping at the truck stop bar for yet another coffee (I think this one has been talked about in other posts. Maybe the futuristic one? I was counting on there being something in Santa María for some reason so I skipped it.) The last six km or so are road walking that goes uphill into La Panadella. Hostal Bayona did give me a peregrino discount for 14€ instead of 18€ for the menú del día, and a single with bath was 30€. There is a tiny shop across the street that opens at 5 pm...but doesn't have a lot. The other bar/restaurant (not sure they have rooms anymore) was closed on Wednesday. I have stayed in worse places than the Bayona, but it does have a vibe fitting for spooky season. They seemed to be training a lot of new people too, so be patient.

On my way out the next morning on the Camino, I found the perfect spot for watching the sunset! If only I had known about it before leaving town. (It's right where the Camino leaves La Panadella.)

La Panadella-Tàrrega. I only walked to Cervera and took the train to Tàrrega, part because to avoid putting too much stress on my foot, part to have adequate time to explore both Cervera and Tàrrega, the only "interesting" towns between Montserrat and Lleida. Tons of farm tracks and maybe my first stork sighting (I'd see a lot more even in autumn). The first town didn't have much, and L'Amistat in the second town (Sant Antoli i Vilanova) was closed, maybe to have a "puente" for the upcoming festivo 12 de octubre? I took the PR variant mentioned in the planning post, which has some uphill but offers exploring castle ruins and no road walking. There are actually three ways out of Sant Pere de Arquells, all marked. At the fork, the highway (turn right) and motorcross way (straight ahead) are marked. If you turn left to go uphill, you'll find the PR, which is also marked with yellow arrows.

I love exploring Cervera, which feels more like a Camino town that deserves to be explored. Castle ruins, churches, I think a monastery, and just a nice small town. Tàrrega felt a bit bigger. I got there in time for a menú del día, stayed at the Hotel Ciutat de Tàrrega (which had a good breakfast the next morning included to offset the price of 56€ a bit). There is an albergue and other places to stay...don't remember why I chose that one, but it was nice. They have a really nice plaza and a church, and a small river running through the other edge of town. I took the time to ensure I knew which variant of the Camino to follow out of town the next day.

I think in retrospect, I would have done shorter stages to stay in both Cervera and Tàrrega, or stayed in Vilagrassa, 2.8 km after Tàrrega. (I think Cervera has an albergue. Jorba does. I've been staying in private rooms, though I probably would have had most of the albergues to myself!)

 

[setmeravelles]

Tàrrega-El Palau d'Anglesola. Not the best Camino day. Long slog out of Tàrrega along a busy road (probably people going to Tàrrega for work/school). Bar was closed in Villagrassa, but I found a couple of open ones in Anglesola on a Friday morning pre-holiday. Everything was closed in the next town, Castellnou de Saena, even the famed Modern (not sure if it was just for the day or permanently). There is an albergue there, but I continued on to El Palau d'Anglesola. I did find a gas station bar about 200 metres off Camino after Castellnou. Most of the Camino was on farm tracks that day. It passed a nice pond that attracted lots of birds. But scenery was kinda boring to be honest.

El Palau d'Anglesola is small, has a few bars and shops and a farmacia, and a duck pond with Muscovey ducks. The Pensiò San Antoni was 32€, and the owners were really welcoming (the rest of the town not so much). The owner made me dinner because most cocinas were closed that Friday night. There is an albergue here too.

El Palau d'Anglesola-Lleida. Another boring day on gravel farm tracks and some road walking made worse by a constant drizzle sometimes heavy rain. Before the rain, there was a fantastic sunrise out of El Palau. I had bought a can of Coca Cola Zero the night before as I knew everything would be closed when I left. I found an open bar on 12 Octubre in Bell-Lloc d'Urgell, which was a nondescript pueblo. The last 12 km to Lleida went by fast, but I was dragging from the weather and plantar fasciitis. After crossing the autopista, the industrial entrance to Lleida was one of the most blah entrances to a city I've been to. Walked along the river a while before realising I was getting away from my hotel, Hotel Nadal, which was a total of 75€ for two nights and very nice for the price. There is an albergue in Alcoletge that has good reviews (I believe Alan Sykes stayed here) Lleida also has an albergue and a lot of other hotels. Goya is closer to the center than Nadal, and I stayed there in 2013 and liked it. Nadal is nice but on the outskirts.

Lleida has a lot to see and do. The main attraction is the cathedral (La Seu) and its views of the city from above. I've been a few times, and this was my fave visit so far. Sunday morning I caught the bus to a pueblo on the other variant, Balaguer, which is a really nice town with a castle. I think I mentioned that there should be a path/trail between Lleida and Balaguer, which would offer a chance to switch variants if one so desired.

Lleida-Alcarràs. Very cloudy Monday morning. I was slow to leave Lleida as I had a short stage, had good tostada at Bar Jaume near Hotel Nadal. The Camino goes all along the river for about 8 km with tons of birds. One place for coffee on the road right before Alcarràs. Can Peixan was 35€ for a single with bathroom, and the owner was very welcoming and friendly. Alcarràs has a few bars and restaurants and tons of storks. Cocina being open may vary though.

My original plan was to carry on to Zaragoza and then onto the Camino Castellano-Aragonés or Ebro, but I made the decision to end the Camino early to avoid further injury to my foot, probably a good decision but not one I really wanted to have to make. The Camino markers all along the way had Sant Pere de Rodes-Montserrat-Alcarràs, so I feel that it made a good stopping point.

I'm now back home, resting and rolling and icing my foot as much as possible so I can be on another Camino hopefully sooner than later...probably the Mozárabe from Almería to Merida (and eventually Vía de la Plata/Sanabres), but the Camino Ignaciano is also appealing, and I still have the Caminos de Madrid, Castellano Aragonés, Ebro, Levante and Ruta de la Lana, and to finish the Olvidado...and argh, can't I just live on the Camino?

I would definitely recommend the Camino de Girona, though it felt more like hikes than a Camino. Camino Català Lleida variant...probably better as part of the Camino Ignaciano (although it's in reverse).