Hello from the other side of the world ! You’ve chosen a good route for your first Camino and you’ll be just fine. I’m walking from Porto to Santiago for the third time in two years this November starting on the 8th. I love this Camino and even though I have walked others (Frances, Norte etc), this is my ‘go-to’ walk if I just have a couple of weeks. It has everything and is perfect for a first walk. It has coastal walking (as much as you choose), great towns and cities, beautiful countryside walking, culture and history abounds everywhere along the way.
I would suggest walking out of Porto (presuming that is your starting point), along the right bank of the Douro River to the sea turning north up the coast to the town of Vila do Conde (one long day or two if you stay first night at somewhere like Matasinhos which I would suggest). These first two days be aware that up to the margins of Vila do Conde, there is little signage, hardly any yellow arrows, but you don’t need them as you just follow the river (on your left) and then the sea (also on your left). From Vila do Conde, I would turn inland and walk the 12K or so that connects you to the Portuguese central route at Arcos. You could carry on up the coastal route but that gets very ‘samey’ with lots of flat, boardwalk walking and in the first two days on this suggested route you will have had a good sample of that.
Once on the central route, the signage is very good (it’s a bit spotty on the 12k connector so pay attention). The route takes you north through the lovely towns of Barcelos and Ponte De Lima all the way up to Valenca/Tui the two fabulous towns on either side of the Spanish/Portuguese border. Once in Spain, the trail stages are obvious and beautiful. In my opinion, the Portuguese Camino route in Galicia is way better than the
Camino Frances in Galicia.
You will walk through the towns of O Porrino, Redondela, Pontevedra (the capital of Galicia), Caldas de Rei and Padron up to Santiago. Just north of Pontevedra, you have the option of walking the Spiritual Variant route which heads left and takes you back to the coast for a while. It is quite beautiful and I would recommend it usually to everyone. It’s an extra day but one of the best bits is you can take a boat from Vilanova de Arouza through the estuary and up the river to near Padron, the route, legend tells us that St James’s followers transported his remains all those years ago……it’s wonderful but perhaps in November, you’d be better off sticking to the main central route up to Caldas de Rei, as the boats may not be running and the weather could be inclement. I have done both but would recommend you stick with the main route at this time of year, that’s what I’m doing in November.
Weather wise it’s a lottery. I haven’t walked the whole Portuguese in November but a few years ago I did walk some sections of it and daily highs were around 12-14C with some clear days and some wet. When I walked this route in March this year I suffered lashing rain and flooding almost every day but in March the year before it was wall to wall sunshine. To be honest, when you hit the trail you have to just be prepared for everything that nature throws at you and you should embrace it all and enjoy it.
You’re going to have a blast……this is a great time of year to walk. There will be pilgrims around but not too busy and the atmosphere will be terrific and very spiritual! Be aware that days will be short and it will start to go dark around 5.00pm so plan for that. Accommodations shouldn’t be a problem……plan ahead. Booking.com is perfect for what you will need. I have to confess I’m a bit of a ‘spreadsheet pilgrim’ and I plan and book ahead of time. It’s less ‘liberating’ but I like to know where I’m going and where I’m sleeping.
Good luck and Bom Caminho/Buen Camino !
PS…..if you want to treat yourself in Santiago, take a look at Hotel Costa Vella. It’s fantastic…..family run, fabulous staff, not too expensive, clean and beautifully presented, close to the cathedral and the main square. Also features one of the city’s most notable landmarks, a wonderful garden that is open to the public for cafe con leches, beers etc.
If you spot this peregrino from Newfoundland en route, be sure to say hello !
