Urdax monastery

[andycohn]

Has anyone stayed at the monastery in Urdax recently, i. e. within the last few weeks? We're supposed to stay there tomorrow, but the reports on Gronze of really unsanitary conditions are making me rethink our plans.

Update: See my (positive!) report after staying there at #20, below.

 

[VNwalking]

No but there have been similar reports here too.

 

[andycohn]

No but there have been similar reports here too.

Thanks. Saw those, too. I'll wait until tonight to decide in case others weigh in.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hope your camino is going well. Our Baztán group didn’t sleep in Urdax, but I agree that the Gronze reviews give pause. You probably already saw this, but google does show a rural hotel very close to the center, 125€ for tomorrow night. But that’s better than what it shows for tonight, which is no availability!

Not pigrim price range, that’s for sure. Maybe they would give you a discount.

There are also a couple of casas rurales, but what I see is that they are either full or have a minimum stay of a weekend. But if they are empty on a Sunday, maybe they will let it go for one night. Good luck and hope you are having good weather!

 

[Perambulating Griffin]

Do please report back! The monastery is so historically significant, and once rivalled Ronceveaux for delivery of crucial refuge to those arriving from the Bordeaux region and preparing to go over the pass to Elizondo et al...
I understand there is a good museum (it was closed when I was there in May), and I'd love to know if it does have a clear sense of pilgrim purpose.
My experience of the Baztan in spring was that: the scenery is lovely, and hospitality can be had for a price, but the importance of the route as "pilgrimage" has been largely forgotten. Things are very expensive (I worry about people without the means available to get themselves out of a pickle if needed; see the price of the hotel posted by @peregrina2000 -- it's an accurate reflection of similar along the way).

Beware also the "albergue" in Elizondo. The current operators seem to use it more as a truck-stop than an albergue, ad do not have a concept of "pilgrimage". (FN below)
They do not, in fact, provide laundry machines (which is fine, but there is also nowhere to hand-wash or to hang clothes). If it is raining, expect water to come in the ceiling... the food is OK in the restaurant on the main floor (I'm not picky when hungry). When I needed a taxi to avoid a hail storm on the following day and my e-SIM/whatsapp limitations meant I could not *phone* for a taxi, the staff were unhelpful... they told me they would call for me, and I waited... until at 11am when a promised taxi had not arrived, I decided to try to find one by myself on the street. I went into town, found a very nice hotelier getting ready to open for the day and he phoned a cab for me that arrived in 5 minutes and took me over the pass, through the pouring rain and avoiding hail.

FN: I have stayed in some fine truck-stops on different caminos... on the Primitivo at Pinaro, and on my first day on the Portuguese, about 26 Km after Coimbra. Those locations were very familiar with and welcoming to people on camino (and were well-priced and clean, with everything one might need).

 

[andycohn]

Hope your camino is going well. Our Baztán group didn’t sleep in Urdax, but I agree that the Gronze reviews give pause. You probably already saw this, but google does show a rural hotel very close to the center, 125€ for tomorrow night. But that’s better than what it shows for tonight, which is no availability!

Not pigrim price range, that’s for sure. Maybe they would give you a discount.

There are also a couple of casas rurales, but what I see is that they are either full or have a minimum stay of a weekend. But if they are empty on a Sunday, maybe they will let it go for one night. Good luck and hope you are having good weather!
View attachment 177647

Hi Laurie, Thanks. Saw that place, too, on booking.com. Definitely looks tempting. We're staying in Espelette tonight along with a couple from Oklahoma. First walkers we've seen. They're headed to the monastery themselves tomorrow, and we may be shamed into doing the same so as not to appear like the wimpy Californians that we are. Like all such monumental decisions, we'll undoubtedly leave it to the last moment.

Two easy and mellow stages so far -- first to Ustaritz yesterday and now to Espelette. Very cute town but swarming with (non-walker) tourists. Who knew? I was fearful of the swampy trails that you and Jenny (fka @pelerina) reported on, but just routine mud so far, and good weather is forecast at least to Pamplona. And the trail is indeed gorgeous, with the promise that it only gets better.

The tougher stuff starts tomorrow, but we've really broken the stages down. The Baztan for geezers.

Sent you a message, too, about Kate posting

 

[Perambulating Griffin]

Two easy and mellow stages so far -- first to Ustaritz yesterday and now to Espelette. Very cute town but swarming with (non-walker) tourists. Who knew?

Indeed, I had not been aware, but when I tumbled into Ainhoa in bad weather I found out that the whole region is very popular with British as well as French holiday makers. They drive into the lovely towns, stay a day or two and hike around and then continue on. It's partly for the gastronomy and partly for the scenery.
If you aren't aware yet, and need to know about packing food for yourself... there's nothing in Ainhoa (they shop in Souraide or Ustaritz), but there is a very large grocery store just 50 meters past the border into Spain (3km after Ainhoa).
If you have the opportunity and the budget, stop for a meal at the restaurant in Ainhoa at the Hotel Itthurria. *Astonishing*.
Buen Camino!

 

[andycohn]

Indeed, I had not been aware, but when I tumbled into Ainhoa in bad weather I found out that the whole region is very popular with British as well as French holiday makers. They drive into the lovely towns, stay a day or two and hike around and then continue on. It's partly for the gastronomy and partly for the scenery.
If you aren't aware yet, and need to know about packing food for yourself... there's nothing in Ainhoa (they shop in Souraide or Ustaritz), but there is a very large grocery store just 50 meters past the border into Spain (3km after Ainhoa).
If you have the opportunity and the budget, stop for a meal at the restaurant in Ainhoa at the Hotel Itthurria. *Astonishing*.
Buen Camino!

Thanks for the heads-ups and the tips. I'd like to stay in the monastery for its significance and atmosphere, but the repeated reports of bad conditions have definitely put me off. One way or another, I'll report back.

Also got tickets for the guided tour of the caves at Urdax.

 

[FLEUR]

Stayed at the monastery pre covid. Just 4 of us. It was excellent value and a good stay. Sorry to hear it's gone downhill

 

[AML]

Was thinking of staying here also in October! Disappointing to read the negative reviews.
Maybe i can do Ustaritz to Maya to Amiur/Maya but would be 30k+ and a big climb after Urdax

 

[Diet]

Has anyone stayed at the monastery in Urdax recently, i. e. within the last few weeks? We're supposed to stay there tomorrow, but the reports on Gronze of really unsanitary conditions are making me rethink our plans.

Yes, I stayd there last week and loved it! Is was more than fine with me and the food was very good!

 

[VNwalking]

Also got tickets for the guided tour of the caves at Urdax.

What caves at Urdax!?

 

[andycohn]

What caves at Urdax!?

Cuevas de Urdazubi - Urdax (Navarra)

Web oficial de las cuevas de Urdazubi Urdax, al norte de Navarra, con espectaculares formaciones rocosas y a 1 Km. del pueblo de las brujas de Zugarramurdi....

cuevasurdax.com

And the Gronze "Al loro" discussion of Urdax talks all about them:

Souraïde - Amaiur/Maya | Al Loro | Camino de Baztan | Gronze.com

Consejos y recomendaciones de la etapa Souraïde - Amaiur/Maya en Camino de Baztan: Sugerencias, advertencias y cuestiones prácticas a saber antes de empezar cada etapa

www.gronze.com

 

[limescene]

Stayed there last week. I was happy to get there finally after a long day walking from Bayonne and in humid and rainy weather. Nothing really special about the albergue. It provided a hot shower and a well enough bed. No dinner to be had that night in the albergue nor the bars around. Glad I had bought some supplies from the Carrefour express in Souraïde.
The rooms in the albergue were pretty damp (not sure, but maybe also due to the moist weather and missing windows in the bathroom so the humid air from the showers went into the dormitory).
Only real complaint is that the rubbish bin in the bathroom hadn’t been emptied for some days.

 

[andycohn]

Stayed there last week. I was happy to get there finally after a long day walking from Bayonne and in humid and rainy weather. Nothing really special about the albergue. It provided a hot shower and a well enough bed. No dinner to be had that night in the albergue nor the bars around. Glad I had bought some supplies from the Carrefour express in Souraïde.
The rooms in the albergue were pretty damp (not sure, but maybe also due to the moist weather and missing windows in the bathroom so the humid air from the showers went into the dormitory).
Only real complaint is that the rubbish bin in the bathroom hadn’t been emptied for some days.

Thanks so much for the update. We were leaning to staying there, and your report, and that of @Diet, are encouraging. Whomever I whatsapped a few days ago said we could eat dinner at the monastery but we'll have some provisions just in case.

It's been dry the last 2 days. In any event, I can put up with some dampness, and full trashcans. The previous descriptions, both here and on Gronze, had conjured up visions of toilets not cleaned for weeks.

You walked from Bayonne in one day!!!!!!

 

[VNwalking]

You walked from Bayonne in one day!!!!!!

My thought too.

 

[StephenChad]

I stayed at the Urdax monastery in June, it was fine, clean enough and the hospitalero provided a simple meal which was fine. You call him when you arrive and he brings the key.
The location of the accommodation above the cloisters is stunning. Nobody else there. Definitely worth booking a Spanish language guided tour of the Urdax caves which are stunning and about 20 minites walk away. I think you can get a French tour at the weekend but the only entry is as part of a tour. The village bar was open but they didn't do much food.

 

[andycohn]

I stayed at the Urdax monastery in June, it was fine, clean enough and the hospitalero provided a simple meal which was fine. You call him when you arrive and he brings the key.
The location of the accommodation above the cloisters is stunning. Nobody else there. Definitely worth booking a Spanish language guided tour of the Urdax caves which are stunning and about 20 minites walk away. I think you can get a French tour at the weekend but the only entry is as part of a tour. The village bar was open but they didn't do much food.

Thanks. You've clinched it for us. The monastery it will be. We booked the cave tour a few days ago. Looking forward to it.

Will report on everything tomorrow.

 

[StephenChad]

Thanks. You've clinched it for us. The monastery it will be. We booked the cave tour a few days ago. Looking forward to it.

Will report on everything tomorrow.

Best of luck, points of interest for the next day include the Franco era Linea B fortifications at the top of the Otsondo pass with their commanding views of France (turn right along the ridge just before you reach the road) as well as the ruined castle at Amaiur.

 

[andycohn]

Urdax Monastery – The Report from the Field


After a pleasant enough night at the Urdax monastery I’m baffled by the horrible reviews both here and on Gronze: either the previous posters were having a bad hair day, or they expected 4 star luxury at a basic, no-frills 8 euro / bed albergue. Of course, it's also possible that the on-site powers that be have cleaned up their act (as it were).


As municipal or church-run albergues go, it was more than fine. No evidence of unsanitary conditions. The floors, the beds, the bathrooms were all quite clean, the mattresses were firm, and all bedding was wrapped in protective plastic. Paper bottom sheets were provided, and there were even blankets, which we unhesitantingly used.


Best of all, it is very spacious and affords a lot of privacy, with 9 large pods of 2 bunk beds each. Since it seems rare that more than ½ dozen or so people are there at any one time, it’s pretty likely that you, or you and your partner, will have a pod to yourself, and even if it were full, there's plenty of maneuvering room between beds so you wouldn't feel cramped.


And the hospitaliero / manager was friendly, efficient and accommodating. No problem with him at all


All restaurants in town were closed on Sunday night, so we ate dinner there, too. 14 euros. A basic pilgrim meal, but everything was fresh. BYOB, however.


Minor minuses: Only one shower in spacious bathroom worked, but this was hardly an issue with only 6 of us there. And while the kitchen was well-provided with cooking utensils, the stove-top didn't work, so you can only warm up food in the microwave.


Tonight we'll splurge on a CR, but sure didn't regret last night's choice. And you can't top the setting. Nothing beats a 1000 year old stone pile.


Thanks, everyone, for all your input. I'll post this in Gronze, too, to try and offset the negativity.


And if you're ever in Urdax, check out the caves. Cool in all senses of the word, even if I couldn't understand a word of the tour guide. Check out my post, #13 above, for the website. Book in advance.

 

[AML]

@andycohn Thanks for your feedback on Urdax Monastery albergue.
Do you have to reserve in advance?
I'm not going until October, sent them an email but received no response.
Actually thinking again, it wasnt the monastery i emailed, it was albergue in Ustaritz. I will stay in Ustaritz the first night, think its an easy enough walk from Bayonne. Have an early enough flight to Biarritz, time to check out the catheredal in Bayonne, pick up a credential and walk to Ustaritz.

 

[VNwalking]

Thanks, everyone, for all your input. I'll post this in Gronze, too, to try and offset the negativity.

Good! And good to know. Tackling that hill after Urdax after lunch was a slog, but if you stay there, it's first thing in the morning...always easier.

 

[andycohn]

@andycohn Thanks for your feedback on Urdax Monastery albergue.
Do you have to reserve in advance?
I'm not going until October, sent them an email but received no response.
Actually thinking again, it wasnt the monastery i emailed, it was albergue in Ustaritz. I will stay in Ustaritz the first night, think its an easy enough walk from Bayonne. Have an early enough flight to Biarritz, time to check out the catheredal in Bayonne, pick up a credential and walk to Ustaritz.

I did reserve a few days in advance, but I don't think there's any need to. There's a phone number on the door to call the manager when you arrive, since there's no one on duty. Same one listed in Gronze. By the way, Whatsapp seems to be better than email. Everywhere I've used it -- in Spain, Portugal, France, and Italy -- people have gotten back to me within an hour, if not minutes. Haven't had the same experience with email.

 

[timr]

By the way, Whatsapp seems to be better than email. Everywhere I've used it -- in Spain, Portugal, France, and Italy -- people have gotten back to me within an hour, if not minutes. Haven't had the same experience with email.

My almost universal experience in both Spain and Italy in past few of years too.

And thanks so much for your updated report on Urdax. Really useful to have a reasoned assessment of a place. And thanks for letting Gronze know too. Tim

 

[Rossandjeannie]

I stayed in Urdax monastery last week and loved it. What wasn’t so good was 3 days further on I tried to stay at Olague municipal albergue and it was so smelly and unsanitary that we decided to walk another 10km to a private hotel

 

[andycohn]

I stayed in Urdax monastery last week and loved it. What wasn’t so good was 3 days further on I tried to stay at Olague municipal albergue and it was so smelly and unsanitary that we decided to walk another 10km to a private hotel

We did stay at the Olague albergue. Didn't mind it, even though it was completely full. Only problem we had was that the bathroom was incredibly cramped. Didn't seem unsanitary, though.

 

[StephenChad]

Stayed at Olargue in June, no one else there. The charming hospitalera is a very good cheese maker and has a shop in the village

 

[Rossandjeannie]

Stayed at Olargue in June, no one else there. The charming hospitalera is a very good cheese maker and has a shop in the village

Tried the cheese shop and it was closed. Rang the bell and phoned. No answer. It seemed that me and Olague didn’t get on.