- Time of past OR future Camino
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What follows is my personal view on the last part of the Sanabrés that I started on Wednesday the 4th of September.
Tuesday before was used for traveling from Belgium to Ourense. Btw I can advise everyone outside Spain to use Trainline and not Renfe for booking a train. The high speed train from Madrid to Santiago stops in Zamora and then Ourense.
I arrived around five in the afternoon and did not have much energy to visit the baths but I took a stroll through the old town and a visit to the cathedral. I walked into the old town via the Puente Romano which I also had to cross the day after for starting the Camino. Found some nice bars for a decent bite and an Albariño.
I chose beforehand not to use albergues anymore. I am a very light sleeper. Plus I have been through a mentally hard year and I cherish my privacy.
First day Ourense to Cea. My Wikiloc said 23 km.
Easy to find your way out of Ourense. A couple of km through quiet semi suburbs and then just after the Repsol gasstation you turn right. And the quite steep hills ( on tarmac ) starts. Then quite sturdy granite rocks combined with small loose stones so you will have to pay attention where to place your feet.
I was happy I bought a cheap walkingstick at Decathlon Ourense.
That first day I mainly saw Spanish pilgrims, small group of friends. Some of them only with daypacks. I never saw them afterwards so that could also be dayhikers.
The hikers wool I only started to use recently worked so well. Aside from one small blister ( see later ) all went really good on that front.
I stayed a the new Quinta da Cea in Cea and I can strongly recommend it. Spotless clean and very attentive staff.
aquintadecea.com
Next to it is the only restaurant/ bar in town. They are clearly overworked so be patient and they will find you a table.
Every evening I also see where I can have my morning coffee and pan tostada so after I figured that out I went to rest, not before watching some Spanish tv which is always fun with the dubbing of The Big Bang Theory or other shows.
Second day : Cea to Castro Dozon. 22.70 according to Wikiloc but I got some wrong turns ( me being not attentive because yellow flechas are abundant ).
A hard day for me. At Cea you have the option to go via more paved roads ( also shorter ) to Castro Dozon or take the very well marked alternative via the Monasterio de Oseira to Castro. I chose that one. I did not see anyone that day aside from a local man doing his local walk. There were also remmants of small bushfires in the recent past which made this etapa for me even more spooky.
More big granite stones, small hamlets and parts woodland that makes Galicia so wonderful.
Then two km via a main bendy road to the Monasterio. I might be too spoilt here in Europe with gorgeous monasteries but the one in Oseira was " just one of the many ". It was of course still very early and no one aside from some gardenworkers were there. The two bars were also closed. So I was happy one of the workers said I could use the bathroom at the brand new Xunta albergue.
Then came one of my scariest moments on any Camino. First an insect bit me. A hard sting in my neck. Of course when you look at it objectively it is all manageable but combined with tiredness ( walking those granite rocks ) it all becomes larger than life.
The going down on those rocks was done at two km per hour I guess.
Someone on the forum already mentioned a dangerous loose dog when getting into the first village. And yes there he was, a malicious dog , not a chain and running towards me and before I knew behind me. So I made myself very big ( haha bigger than I already am ) got my stick horizontal with my two hands and screamed Flemish curses towards him. Finally the " owner " whistled him back and I ran further. Around the bend was a bench and I had to calm down for ten minutes.
The first rudimental bar I saw after sixteen km was so welcome. Guess the Spanish Health Department has some things to say about the place but the owner was so friendly and the local dog was so cute.
Always nice open views and no rain btw. Blessed by the sun in the early 20 Celsius.
Entering Castro Dozon is all downhill next to the highway and on gravel so I was very happy to reach this quiet village.
The muni albergue is still closed so the only place to stay is now new Casa Bubela.
www.gronze.com
A mini casa/ albergue with three rooms. One room with three beds ( I booked this for myself for 40 € ) , one room with five beds ( per bed 25 € ) and a bedroom with two beds and ensuite bathroom.
I shared the bathroom with four other pilgrims but was happy to have my own private room.
The other were a German pilgrim who started in Salamanca and three friends from Granada and Jaen who walk every year and started from Almeria. The guy from Granada was much involved in organising local walks in Granada.
The people from the Casa alo cook for you when you order beforehand. Not cheap at 15 € for only a main course but there are not many alternatives except from a small shop at the local gasstation.
Two small bars in town, a pharmacy and a centro de salud for all the neighbouring villages and hamlets.
Third day : Castro Dozon to Botos. Only 13km.
A rainy day so first time I had to pack out my raingear. First four km were rather unispiring parallel with main roads but compared to yesterday at least I saw people buzzing by so I felt a bit more connection to the world.
A small bar/ parillada on the main road was the only break and afterwards rain stopped. Back on minor paved roads, small hamlets and parts of oakwood.
I had a reservation at Botos whereas most pilgrims walk to Lalin where the Invierno meets the Sanabres.
There is nothing in Botos except the pension / restaurante I booked and another restaurant down the street.
www.gronze.com
Nice people, decent menu del dia . Never had my food so quickly as that day! I did not even finish my starter or my main was served too.
Spent the rest of the day reading seeing rain poured down again.
Saw a group of Spanish/ USA pilgrims entering and then being picked up by a mini bus. They had t shirts on from a cancer goodwill society. Next days I saw them again at certain points. So my guess is that they were only able to walk certain distances.
Fourth day : Botos to Silleda 17km.
No rain, chilly start but then a nice sun. Perfect walkingweather. Small hamlets again with wooded paths.
A bridge from the tenth century. Two barstops little bit offroute. One of them was the cafe of the local padelclub.
Seeing it was a Saturday lots of locals were on their weekend walk, so I met some people.
Small blister on my toe despite the hikers wool.
Walking out of a wooded area into the town of Silleda I lost my readingglasses. Small panic so walked back. A nice Spanish pilgrim came running to me with my glasses. So relieved. I asked him if I could treat him to a drink ( and his mate ) but they would not stop in Silleda. Happy days.
I stayed in Hotal Ramos which has excellent prices for single rooms. Of course being it a bigger city there is some competition.
www.hotelramos.com
Very friendly pharmacist sold me a sterile needle and segunda piel for my toe. He complimented me with my Spanish and yes on this Camino a basic knowledge of Spanish is welcome. Made it so much easier for me to communicate.
I liked Silleda.Not a town with much special sights but a typical commercial active vibe with bars, shops and all ammenities local people need.
Fifth day : Silleda to Ponte Ulla. 21.70 km.
Gorgeous and varied walk. Most on paved but quiet roads. Seeing it was a Sunday not much traffic anyway. First oak and then eucalyptus.
Then in Dornelas : an open church! Mass was just done but the locals were still talking outside so a group of pilgrims from Malta and I were able to walk inside.
Saw a group of UK pilgrims with daypacks who told me they had booked casas rurales offroute and had their pack transported.
Walking into Ponte Ulla was a bizarre thing. In a neighbouring village there was a mega party going on ( Feria del pulpo ) with immense noise and fireworks. So imagine yourself walking in a wooded area and then hearing those shots. It was quite scary and the feeling did not get better when, once on the main road, the visitors tried to park their car somewhere on those small roads.
I finally reached quiet Ponte Ulla where I reserved at Pension A Taberna de Gundian. No restaurant but they provide a basket of breakfast for next day ( there is a kitchen, coffeemachine and toaster ).
www.a-hotel.com
The albergue/ resto in town does not serve food on Sundays but luckily there is vending machine in the village and a small tienda at the gasstation.
In the evening you can order food from a place 5km further and they will deliver. So I ordered a pizza and some Padron peppers.
Sixth day : Ponte Ulla to Santiago. 22.50 km.
A steep hill to start the day again. Until Outeiro I had to watch my breath.
A good condition is needed for this Camino!
IMHO entering Santiago from the Sanabrés is the most gorgeous. You keep walking on minor quiet roads and small hamlets until two km before Santiago.
And then you will see the Cathedral. Steep down and then steep up.
You enter via the Arco de Mazarelos and like always I tend to get lost in the old town.
Reaching the cathedral was an anticlimax after my quiet Camino. I could feel the joy from the others and felt happy for them. But there were so many pilgrims, groups, the loudness, the tourist train etc...of course I know this is double seeing I am one of those individuals that is part of that group.
Finally I decided I would go for my Compostela and for the Distancia certificate.
The QR makes it all very swift and too smooth.
The clerk behind the desk did not speak ten words with me. It was all rather clinical.
Luckily there is also the space on the first floor of the Oficina where the Dutch and Flemish confraternity have their livingroom.
A warm welcome and more suitable end for my Camino.
This Camino reminded me of my first CF in 2011 ( which I walked in April and May ) . Quiet and introspective. The ability to meet other pilgrims but not being faced with commercialism.
On this Camino, basic knowledge of Spanish is helpful.
You cannot expect that the small villages will have open bars so bring food and drink with you.
There are not many agua potable fountains on this route.
There are taxis of course when needed, but less frequent than on the CF.
I had the Monday afternoon and Tuesday free in Santiago. A friend of mine was flying in on Tuesday evening and we then would continue walking to Finisterre and Muxia. I will post about this later this week.
I hope this might be of help for those who want to explore the Sanabrés. I believe it is a great alternative to the last 100 km of the CF, CP or even the Ingles ( too much tarmac to my liking ).
I will certainly return and do some more stages.
Finishing in Santiago is not needed for me anymore.
Tuesday before was used for traveling from Belgium to Ourense. Btw I can advise everyone outside Spain to use Trainline and not Renfe for booking a train. The high speed train from Madrid to Santiago stops in Zamora and then Ourense.
I arrived around five in the afternoon and did not have much energy to visit the baths but I took a stroll through the old town and a visit to the cathedral. I walked into the old town via the Puente Romano which I also had to cross the day after for starting the Camino. Found some nice bars for a decent bite and an Albariño.
I chose beforehand not to use albergues anymore. I am a very light sleeper. Plus I have been through a mentally hard year and I cherish my privacy.
First day Ourense to Cea. My Wikiloc said 23 km.
Easy to find your way out of Ourense. A couple of km through quiet semi suburbs and then just after the Repsol gasstation you turn right. And the quite steep hills ( on tarmac ) starts. Then quite sturdy granite rocks combined with small loose stones so you will have to pay attention where to place your feet.
I was happy I bought a cheap walkingstick at Decathlon Ourense.
That first day I mainly saw Spanish pilgrims, small group of friends. Some of them only with daypacks. I never saw them afterwards so that could also be dayhikers.
The hikers wool I only started to use recently worked so well. Aside from one small blister ( see later ) all went really good on that front.
I stayed a the new Quinta da Cea in Cea and I can strongly recommend it. Spotless clean and very attentive staff.
Nuestra Quinta
Descubre el encanto de A Quinta da Cea Tu refugio en el corazón de Galicia Sumérgete en la historia y la belleza de Galicia con una estancia en A Quinta da Cea. Nuestro hotel rural, ubicado en un majestuoso edificio del Siglo XVI completamente reformado y equipado con instalaciones nuevas de...
aquintadecea.com
Next to it is the only restaurant/ bar in town. They are clearly overworked so be patient and they will find you a table.
Every evening I also see where I can have my morning coffee and pan tostada so after I figured that out I went to rest, not before watching some Spanish tv which is always fun with the dubbing of The Big Bang Theory or other shows.
Second day : Cea to Castro Dozon. 22.70 according to Wikiloc but I got some wrong turns ( me being not attentive because yellow flechas are abundant ).
A hard day for me. At Cea you have the option to go via more paved roads ( also shorter ) to Castro Dozon or take the very well marked alternative via the Monasterio de Oseira to Castro. I chose that one. I did not see anyone that day aside from a local man doing his local walk. There were also remmants of small bushfires in the recent past which made this etapa for me even more spooky.
More big granite stones, small hamlets and parts woodland that makes Galicia so wonderful.
Then two km via a main bendy road to the Monasterio. I might be too spoilt here in Europe with gorgeous monasteries but the one in Oseira was " just one of the many ". It was of course still very early and no one aside from some gardenworkers were there. The two bars were also closed. So I was happy one of the workers said I could use the bathroom at the brand new Xunta albergue.
Then came one of my scariest moments on any Camino. First an insect bit me. A hard sting in my neck. Of course when you look at it objectively it is all manageable but combined with tiredness ( walking those granite rocks ) it all becomes larger than life.
The going down on those rocks was done at two km per hour I guess.
Someone on the forum already mentioned a dangerous loose dog when getting into the first village. And yes there he was, a malicious dog , not a chain and running towards me and before I knew behind me. So I made myself very big ( haha bigger than I already am ) got my stick horizontal with my two hands and screamed Flemish curses towards him. Finally the " owner " whistled him back and I ran further. Around the bend was a bench and I had to calm down for ten minutes.
The first rudimental bar I saw after sixteen km was so welcome. Guess the Spanish Health Department has some things to say about the place but the owner was so friendly and the local dog was so cute.
Always nice open views and no rain btw. Blessed by the sun in the early 20 Celsius.
Entering Castro Dozon is all downhill next to the highway and on gravel so I was very happy to reach this quiet village.
The muni albergue is still closed so the only place to stay is now new Casa Bubela.
Casa Bubela - O Castro (Dozón) | Vivienda Turística | Gronze.com
Información del Vivienda Turística Casa Bubela, en O Castro (Dozón): precio, plazas, características, etc...
A mini casa/ albergue with three rooms. One room with three beds ( I booked this for myself for 40 € ) , one room with five beds ( per bed 25 € ) and a bedroom with two beds and ensuite bathroom.
I shared the bathroom with four other pilgrims but was happy to have my own private room.
The other were a German pilgrim who started in Salamanca and three friends from Granada and Jaen who walk every year and started from Almeria. The guy from Granada was much involved in organising local walks in Granada.
The people from the Casa alo cook for you when you order beforehand. Not cheap at 15 € for only a main course but there are not many alternatives except from a small shop at the local gasstation.
Two small bars in town, a pharmacy and a centro de salud for all the neighbouring villages and hamlets.
Third day : Castro Dozon to Botos. Only 13km.
A rainy day so first time I had to pack out my raingear. First four km were rather unispiring parallel with main roads but compared to yesterday at least I saw people buzzing by so I felt a bit more connection to the world.
A small bar/ parillada on the main road was the only break and afterwards rain stopped. Back on minor paved roads, small hamlets and parts of oakwood.
I had a reservation at Botos whereas most pilgrims walk to Lalin where the Invierno meets the Sanabres.
There is nothing in Botos except the pension / restaurante I booked and another restaurant down the street.
Hostal A Taberna de Vento - Botos | Hostal | Gronze.com
Información del Hostal Hostal A Taberna de Vento, en Botos: precio, plazas, características, etc...
Nice people, decent menu del dia . Never had my food so quickly as that day! I did not even finish my starter or my main was served too.
Spent the rest of the day reading seeing rain poured down again.
Saw a group of Spanish/ USA pilgrims entering and then being picked up by a mini bus. They had t shirts on from a cancer goodwill society. Next days I saw them again at certain points. So my guess is that they were only able to walk certain distances.
Fourth day : Botos to Silleda 17km.
No rain, chilly start but then a nice sun. Perfect walkingweather. Small hamlets again with wooded paths.
A bridge from the tenth century. Two barstops little bit offroute. One of them was the cafe of the local padelclub.
Seeing it was a Saturday lots of locals were on their weekend walk, so I met some people.
Small blister on my toe despite the hikers wool.
Walking out of a wooded area into the town of Silleda I lost my readingglasses. Small panic so walked back. A nice Spanish pilgrim came running to me with my glasses. So relieved. I asked him if I could treat him to a drink ( and his mate ) but they would not stop in Silleda. Happy days.
I stayed in Hotal Ramos which has excellent prices for single rooms. Of course being it a bigger city there is some competition.
Hotel Ramos – Hotel en Silleda, Galicia
www.hotelramos.com
I liked Silleda.Not a town with much special sights but a typical commercial active vibe with bars, shops and all ammenities local people need.
Fifth day : Silleda to Ponte Ulla. 21.70 km.
Gorgeous and varied walk. Most on paved but quiet roads. Seeing it was a Sunday not much traffic anyway. First oak and then eucalyptus.
Then in Dornelas : an open church! Mass was just done but the locals were still talking outside so a group of pilgrims from Malta and I were able to walk inside.
Saw a group of UK pilgrims with daypacks who told me they had booked casas rurales offroute and had their pack transported.
Walking into Ponte Ulla was a bizarre thing. In a neighbouring village there was a mega party going on ( Feria del pulpo ) with immense noise and fireworks. So imagine yourself walking in a wooded area and then hearing those shots. It was quite scary and the feeling did not get better when, once on the main road, the visitors tried to park their car somewhere on those small roads.
I finally reached quiet Ponte Ulla where I reserved at Pension A Taberna de Gundian. No restaurant but they provide a basket of breakfast for next day ( there is a kitchen, coffeemachine and toaster ).
A-HOTEL.com - A Taberna de Gundián, guest house, Vedra, Spain - price, booking, contact
A Taberna de Gundián on-line prices, avaibility, photos, reviews, best price, online booking and confirmation
The albergue/ resto in town does not serve food on Sundays but luckily there is vending machine in the village and a small tienda at the gasstation.
In the evening you can order food from a place 5km further and they will deliver. So I ordered a pizza and some Padron peppers.
Sixth day : Ponte Ulla to Santiago. 22.50 km.
A steep hill to start the day again. Until Outeiro I had to watch my breath.
A good condition is needed for this Camino!
IMHO entering Santiago from the Sanabrés is the most gorgeous. You keep walking on minor quiet roads and small hamlets until two km before Santiago.
And then you will see the Cathedral. Steep down and then steep up.
You enter via the Arco de Mazarelos and like always I tend to get lost in the old town.
Reaching the cathedral was an anticlimax after my quiet Camino. I could feel the joy from the others and felt happy for them. But there were so many pilgrims, groups, the loudness, the tourist train etc...of course I know this is double seeing I am one of those individuals that is part of that group.
Finally I decided I would go for my Compostela and for the Distancia certificate.
The QR makes it all very swift and too smooth.
The clerk behind the desk did not speak ten words with me. It was all rather clinical.
Luckily there is also the space on the first floor of the Oficina where the Dutch and Flemish confraternity have their livingroom.
A warm welcome and more suitable end for my Camino.
This Camino reminded me of my first CF in 2011 ( which I walked in April and May ) . Quiet and introspective. The ability to meet other pilgrims but not being faced with commercialism.
On this Camino, basic knowledge of Spanish is helpful.
You cannot expect that the small villages will have open bars so bring food and drink with you.
There are not many agua potable fountains on this route.
There are taxis of course when needed, but less frequent than on the CF.
I had the Monday afternoon and Tuesday free in Santiago. A friend of mine was flying in on Tuesday evening and we then would continue walking to Finisterre and Muxia. I will post about this later this week.
I hope this might be of help for those who want to explore the Sanabrés. I believe it is a great alternative to the last 100 km of the CF, CP or even the Ingles ( too much tarmac to my liking ).
I will certainly return and do some more stages.
Finishing in Santiago is not needed for me anymore.
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