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My First Camino-Baztan

Stuartwe

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Baztan 2024
I have just returned from walking alone the wonderful Camino del Baztan.
I am a 64 year old man from England and received an unexpected but welcome opportunity when my long term employer decided to part company with me,enabling me to attempt my first Camino.I decided upon the Baztan as I had previously researched it and it appeared to meet my requirements.

My 6 stages were-
Bayonne to Espelette
Espelette to Urdax
Urdax to Elizondo
Elizondo to Venta San Blas
Venta San Blas to Olague
Olague to Pamplona

My great respect to anyone who completes in 5 but 6 days was as anticipated,far more realistic for me and time was not a factor
Every stage met or exceeded my expectations and in the 6 days,I did not meet a single other walker on my route.
My general observations are rather naive but for what they are worth,are as follows-
Make sure all equipment is organised,well packed and balanced,if it doesn’t feel right,do not continue but adjust until feeling comfortable….learnt that from painful lesson.
Good boots offering ankle support and a telescopic shock absorbing pole were invaluable for me as ground was often difficult with loose rocks and slippery.
As others have indicated,route markets are easier to follow in Spain as opposed to France,but I always retraced steps if unsure and was able to pick up correct route.
I couldn’t understand how easily I initially missed the correct path but obviously an indication of how relaxed you can become when enjoying the walking.
There is an alternative route following green/ white markets which I took leaving Urdax for the very demanding climb to the pass at Oxtondo,recommended by owner of the hotel Irigoienea at Urdax.Apparently not so steep but a more progressive climb than official Camino route.
Walking alone provides great rewards in allowing oneself to be more self centred in choosing totally your own approach and not having to compromise to fit in with companions wishes but the big downside is not being able to share the magic moments,of which there were many.
Also form a safety viewpoint it was sobering to see a number of Gendarmes and police helicopter trying to find a missing hiker in the hills above Espelette and it did focus the mind of potential pitfalls of travelling solo.

I was only visitor 151 this year at the Albergue in Olague which is difficult to comprehend considering how magnificent this Camino is and although my expectations were high,they were comfortably exceeded.
I did however enjoy meeting other Pilgrims when my path crossed the Camino Francés at Trinidad de Arre and in the space of a few minutes,I exchanged stories with friendly Americans an Austrian and Hungarian.

In summary,for someone who has lived a relatively sheltered existence and perhaps relied too heavily on others at times,the Camino was an extremely,rewarding and satisfying physical and mental challenge and although very tired,I thoroughly enjoyed the experience and sense of achievement
It was also some satisfaction to he that I completed 7 different train journeys,3 bus rides,2 flights and stayed in 7 different accommodations in addition to walking in excess of 110 kms without any major mishaps.
Lesson learnt for me was to not concentrate too much on the “ what might happen “ scenarios as this saps too much energy ,but be confident you have the necessary resourcefulness and ability to deal with anything that does actually happen.
Thank you for reading and I am already looking forward to Camino number 2
 
Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
I have just returned from walking alone the wonderful Camino del Baztan.
I am a 64 year old man from England and received an unexpected but welcome opportunity when my long term employer decided to part company with me,enabling me to attempt my first Camino.I decided upon the Baztan as I had previously researched it and it appeared to meet my requirements.

My 6 stages were-
Bayonne to Espelette
Espelette to Urdax
Urdax to Elizondo
Elizondo to Venta San Blas
Venta San Blas to Olague
Olague to Pamplona

My great respect to anyone who completes in 5 but 6 days was as anticipated,far more realistic for me and time was not a factor
Every stage met or exceeded my expectations and in the 6 days,I did not meet a single other walker on my route.
My general observations are rather naive but for what they are worth,are as follows-
Make sure all equipment is organised,well packed and balanced,if it doesn’t feel right,do not continue but adjust until feeling comfortable….learnt that from painful lesson.
Good boots offering ankle support and a telescopic shock absorbing pole were invaluable for me as ground was often difficult with loose rocks and slippery.
As others have indicated,route markets are easier to follow in Spain as opposed to France,but I always retraced steps if unsure and was able to pick up correct route.
I couldn’t understand how easily I initially missed the correct path but obviously an indication of how relaxed you can become when enjoying the walking.
There is an alternative route following green/ white markets which I took leaving Urdax for the very demanding climb to the pass at Oxtondo,recommended by owner of the hotel Irigoienea at Urdax.Apparently not so steep but a more progressive climb than official Camino route.
Walking alone provides great rewards in allowing oneself to be more self centred in choosing totally your own approach and not having to compromise to fit in with companions wishes but the big downside is not being able to share the magic moments,of which there were many.
Also form a safety viewpoint it was sobering to see a number of Gendarmes and police helicopter trying to find a missing hiker in the hills above Espelette and it did focus the mind of potential pitfalls of travelling solo.

I was only visitor 151 this year at the Albergue in Olague which is difficult to comprehend considering how magnificent this Camino is and although my expectations were high,they were comfortably exceeded.
I did however enjoy meeting other Pilgrims when my path crossed the Camino Francés at Trinidad de Arre and in the space of a few minutes,I exchanged stories with friendly Americans an Austrian and Hungarian.

In summary,for someone who has lived a relatively sheltered existence and perhaps relied too heavily on others at times,the Camino was an extremely,rewarding and satisfying physical and mental challenge and although very tired,I thoroughly enjoyed the experience and sense of achievement
It was also some satisfaction to he that I completed 7 different train journeys,3 bus rides,2 flights and stayed in 7 different accommodations in addition to walking in excess of 110 kms without any major mishaps.
Lesson learnt for me was to not concentrate too much on the “ what might happen “ scenarios as this saps too much energy ,but be confident you have the necessary resourcefulness and ability to deal with anything that does actually happen.
Thank you for reading and I am already looking forward to Camino number 2
Yes, apparently you were not able to share 'magic moments,' but this is not completely true. You experienced these magic moments; this and your completion of the Camino means you shared all of this with yourself. This means you changed yourself. This means you are a different person. This means, every time you interact with a person, from now on, you will, in a sort of subliminal and subconscious way, be sharing your Camino with them. You are changed and changed forever and will share this share with all that you encounter. Quite a blessing if I do say so myself. Congrats, especially for taking the 'risk' on doing the Camino solo. Chuck
 
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Yes, apparently you were not able to share 'magic moments,' but this is not completely true. You experienced these magic moments; this and your completion of the Camino means you shared all of this with yourself. This means you changed yourself. This means you are a different person. This means, every time you interact with a person, from now on, you will, in a sort of subliminal and subconscious way, be sharing your Camino with them. You are changed and changed forever and will share this share with all that you encounter. Quite a blessing if I do say so myself. Congrats, especially for taking the 'risk' on doing the Camino solo. Chuck
Chuck,
Thank for taking the time and trouble to both read my post and your very interesting and considered reply.
On reflection,you are of course absolutely right.I am not clever enough to express exactly how I feel but I do feel different and in a good way.
My mindset has become generally more positive about things and to concentrate less on the trivial and to think about how to approach constructively the more important matters in my life.
Having a relatively short period alone,makes you realise how much time you have to think without any outside interference,however well intentioned
Best wishes to you.
I am thinking that the Camino Ingles might be my goal for 2025.
Stuart
 
I walked from Bayonne to the border several months ago. The scenery was amazing.
Thank you for your reply.
I agree entirely but may I also be as bold to recommend that you keep going into Spain next time because in my humble opinion it gets even better!
Best wishes
Stuart
 
It's a beautiful Camino. Nice to hear of more people walking it.
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
I walked the Camino Baztan from the 20th-24th of July this year and I absolutely loved it.
I started from the beach because I wanted to walk from ocean to ocean (Bayonne>Muxia). Here's the wikiloc route from the first day: https://es.wikiloc.com/rutas-sender...-bayona-eglise-saint-vincent-ustari-178026954

Did you know that this camino is gaining traction with Spanish pilgrims because a Basque writer wrote a quadrology thriller about the valley filled with crime and excitement? It now even has a miniseries on Netflix!
https://www.valledebaztan.com/trilogia-del-baztan-de-dolores-redondo/
https://www.netflix.com/nl/title/80173176

I met about 9 pilgrims (4 in Ustaritz, 1 in Urdax, 2 in Berroeta, 2 in Olague) and walked with a camino friend from Leon.

The beautiful villages in the same colours (red and white & green and white) stretching from Souraide to Olague I found to be extremely quaint.
 
Sounds a little “busier” than my trip as I only came across two other walkers doing the Baztan in reverse.
Your are absolutely right,the villages are wonderful.
I also had eight Griffon Vultures circling above me just before I entered Ainhoa….it was very hot and I was beginning to tire but must have looked worse than I thought!
Best wishes
Stuart
 
Join the Camino cleanup. Logroño to Burgos May 2025 & Astorga to OCebreiro in June

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