LIVE from the Camino Héctor Walks His Way- Week 5

[HBS60]

So, I’m beginning my fifth week on the Camino. It certainly has been a journey filled with surprises. The novelty and excitement have worn off. But after a rest day in León, I’ve recovered enough to resume my walk. I hope that my resolve is enough to sustain me through these coming days. My spirit is strong but my flesh is weak.

My post for today:
León to San Martín del Camino. 15.7 miles, 25.37 Km

I left my Leon albergue around 6:30 AM, surprised to see they were actually hosing the street, no wonder the neighborhood looked so clean! Alas, the route out of town led me to some grimy, industrial areas, then into some suburbs where nothing was open, since after all, it’s Sunday. Eventually a man who had a roadside stand enticed me to coffee and a muffin, not quite enough but better than nothing. All he asked was a donativo, which I gladly gave and moved on.

A couple of towns later, a cafe was open and I was able to eat my tortilla and had OJ before moving on. The route wasn’t all that remarkable, but at least the day was sunny and cool, perfect for walking. I met a very friendly couple from Ohio, a young Italian lady, a South Korean who wasn’t used to talk to strangers but was making the effort, as usual these connections were nice but temporary as they moved on.

Today was my first day with my day bag, it made a huge difference in the weight, but eventually my blisters slowed me down, but at least, I wasn’t exhausted.

I arrived at my Albergue around 2 PM, the place was packed with pilgrims and locals, making the check-in, and later, lunch, a confusing endeavor, Rventuslly I settled in, showered, napped, did laundry, and a member of this forum RJE recognized me, so we started to talk for a while, it was the highlight of the day,

Tomorrow I head to Astorga, s distance similar to today. I’ll stay at a hotel since I couldn’t communicate with any albergue, so might as well splurge. The next few days will be difficult because of reaching Cruz de Ferro, so I’ll need time to process whatever comes up for me. I hope I can stay the course…

FB post (slightly edited) for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/puEcEyHDL44oT1kB/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[dbier]

You've got this.

BTW, my old sensei says that that saying is often backwards. The flesh will surprise you ( as it already has!), if you strengthen your spirit...

 

[RJE]

It was the highlight of my day too Hector. It was great to meet the man, the myth, the legend! I’m confident our paths will cross again as we hit the home stretch to Santiago. We got this!

 

[J Willhaus]

If you want time for processing, I would try not to arrive at Cruz de Fero too early in the morning. It will be a Wednesday so hopefully not too many tour buses, but there are usually lots of pilgrims very early. I have not been there when it was not crowded, but if you have contemplation and grieving to do there, groups can be off-putting and some people do seem oblivious to the need for somber mood in others. Prepare for the worst, but hope for the best. This seems an important milestone to you and timing could improve your chances of having no one else around.

 

[Camo]

León to San Martín del Camino. 15.7 miles, 25.37 Km

Seems you have sped up to 74% of google person - must be day pack and new shoes

 

[bestfootforward]

So, I’m beginning my fifth week on the Camino. It certainly has been a journey filled with surprises. The novelty and excitement have worn off. But after a rest day in León, I’ve recovered enough to resume my walk. I hope that my resolve is enough to sustain me through these coming days. My spirit is strong but my flesh is weak.

My post for today:
León to San Martín del Camino. 15.7 miles, 25.37 Km

I left my Leon albergue around 6:30 AM, surprised to see they were actually hosing the street, no wonder the neighborhood looked so clean! Alas, the route out of town led me to some grimy, industrial areas, then into some suburbs where nothing was open, since after all, it’s Sunday. Eventually a man who had a roadside stand enticed me to coffee and a muffin, not quite enough but better than nothing. All he asked was a donativo, which I gladly gave and moved on.

A couple of towns later, a cafe was open and I was able to eat my tortilla and had OJ before moving on. The route wasn’t all that remarkable, but at least the day was sunny and cool, perfect for walking. I met a very friendly couple from Ohio, a young Italian lady, a South Korean who wasn’t used to talk to strangers but was making the effort, as usual these connections were nice but temporary as they moved on.

Today was my first day with my day bag, it made a huge difference in the weight, but eventually my blisters slowed me down, but at least, I wasn’t exhausted.

I arrived at my Albergue around 2 PM, the place was packed with pilgrims and locals, making the check-in, and later, lunch, a confusing endeavor, Rventuslly I settled in, showered, napped, did laundry, and a member of this forum RJE recognized me, so we started to talk for a while, it was the highlight of the day,

Tomorrow I head to Astorga, s distance similar to today. I’ll stay at a hotel since I couldn’t communicate with any albergue, so might as well splurge. The next few days will be difficult because of reaching Cruz de Ferro, so I’ll need time to process whatever comes up for me. I hope I can stay the course…

FB post (slightly edited) for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/puEcEyHDL44oT1kB/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Hi Hector, following your journey has become one of life's daily pleasures! If nothing else, the Camino teaches you resilience - and flexibility - and that everything is possible. You can and will stay the course, because that's what you want to do. Buen Camino!

 

[Anhalter]

If you want time for processing, I would try not to arrive at Cruz de Fero too early in the morning. It will be a Wednesday so hopefully not too many tour buses, but there are usually lots of pilgrims very early. I have not been there when it was not crowded, but if you have contemplation and grieving to do there, groups can be off-putting and some people do seem oblivious to the need for somber mood in others. Prepare for the worst, but hope for the best. This seems an important milestone to you and timing could improve your chances of having no one else around.

Adding to this, not sure if i wrote it in one of the older threads, it is also an option to got to the cruz for sunset. Never done it myself, but talked to some people who did and they said it was not busy at all. I think it is about a half hours walk from Foncebadon.

 

[SioCamino]

FWIW @HBS60 I walked up to Cruz de Ferro last week from rabanal, I was there around maybe 8:30/9am and had the place to myself.

 

[HBS60]

Adding to this, not sure if i wrote it in one of the older threads, it is also an option to got to the cruz for sunset. Never done it myself, but talked to some people who did and they said it was not busy at all. I think it is about a half hours walk from Foncebadon.

Thanks for the heads up, much appreciated! I just arrived at Astorga a few minutes ago, and I need to plan for tomorrow. I could end tomorrow at either Rabanal or Foncebadón, my preference would be the latter trying to minimize the distance to Ponferrada. I do want to process, but getting there too late or lingering too long may result in prolonging the day walking to Ponferrada, hopefully the weather will be OK.

 

[WalkingLester]

Going all the way to Ponferrada is a long haul. From Cruz de Ferro to Molinaseca is generally considered a tough downhill stretch. Perhaps consider stopping in El Acebo or Molinaseca. Rabanel to El Acebo would allow for plenty of time a the Cruz and would break up the downhill stretch of walking. Anyway best of luck to you at C de F. It’s amazing you are almost there. Right on schedule!!! Felicidades!!

 

[HBS60]

Going all the way to Ponferrada is a long haul. From Cruz de Ferro to Molinaseca is generally considered a tough downhill stretch. Perhaps consider stopping in El Acebo or Molinaseca. Rabanel to El Acebo would allow for plenty of time a the Cruz and would break up the downhill stretch of walking. Anyway best of luck to you at C de F. It’s amazing you are almost there. Right on schedule!!! Felicidades!!

I’ll definitely consider it, thanks!
I do have another concern, about when can I realistically arrive at Santiago. My return ticket is on the 24th, so I booked a train to Madrid on the Monday the 23rd. This means I must arrive to Santiago no later than Friday the 20th, so I can reclaim at Ivar’s the stuff I sent there ages ago, that I need for my trip home. I would hate to arrive there after he’s closed, what would I do then?

So, given that on Gronze I see some large segments, I’m not sure how I can redistribute the distances walked each day so I can get to Santiago on the 20th.

Logistics, logistics…

 

[trecile]

. This means I must arrive to Santiago no later than Friday the 20th, so I can reclaim at Ivar’s the stuff I sent there ages ago, that I need for my trip home. I would hate to arrive there after he’s closed, what would I do then?

If you book a place to stay in Santiago you can arrange with @ivar to have your things delivered there.

 

[Anhalter]

Arriving by the 20th seems... tough. Assuming you are in Astorga now, its roughly 300km left and 11days. With the distances you seem to be comfortable with i dare say the math does not work. I'd either recommend arranging for your items to be deposited somewhere, as @trecile suggests, or, hard as it may be, skipping some stages.

 

[ScouseKeith]

Going all the way to Ponferrada is a long haul. From Cruz de Ferro to Molinaseca is generally considered a tough downhill stretch. Perhaps consider stopping in El Acebo or Molinaseca. Rabanel to El Acebo would allow for plenty of time a the Cruz and would break up the downhill stretch of walking. Anyway best of luck to you at C de F. It’s amazing you are almost there. Right on schedule!!! Felicidades!!

I agree. I’ve always stopped at El Acebo for a good rest, meal and sleep. The sunsets on the horizon are spectacular. Grab a breakfast in the morning and stop in Molinaseca for coffee and pastry and push on to ponferrada, it’s an easier day and pleasant walk. Keith

 

[ScouseKeith]

I’ll definitely consider it, thanks!
I do have another concern, about when can I realistically arrive at Santiago. My return ticket is on the 24th, so I booked a train to Madrid on the Monday the 23rd. This means I must arrive to Santiago no later than Friday the 20th, so I can reclaim at Ivar’s the stuff I sent there ages ago, that I need for my trip home. I would hate to arrive there after he’s closed, what would I do then?

So, given that on Gronze I see some large segments, I’m not sure how I can redistribute the distances walked each day so I can get to Santiago on the 20th.

Logistics, logistics…

If your latest arrival date is the 20th just work backwards and split the remaining days into portional amounts, don’t try and make up too much so close to home , there’s nothing that beats walking into cathedral square feeling the excitement and euphoria that you’ve made it. Good luck. Keith

 

[donalomahony]

This means I must arrive to Santiago no later than Friday the 20th

In terms of working out your dates, how important is it that you receive the Compostela? That will determine what you might "skip" prior to Sarria.

Remember also, that it's 2 stamps a day from Sarria to Santiago for that Compostela.

Plenty of time to figure it out. I hope the Cruz works out for you. Buen Camino!

 

[SEB2]

I’ll definitely consider it, thanks!
I do have another concern, about when can I realistically arrive at Santiago. My return ticket is on the 24th, so I booked a train to Madrid on the Monday the 23rd. This means I must arrive to Santiago no later than Friday the 20th, so I can reclaim at Ivar’s the stuff I sent there ages ago, that I need for my trip home. I would hate to arrive there after he’s closed, what would I do then?

So, given that on Gronze I see some large segments, I’m not sure how I can redistribute the distances walked each day so I can get to Santiago on the 20th.

Logistics, logistics…

Have you booked accommodation in Santiago yet? If not I suggest getting in touch with Hospaderia San Martin Pinario, They have hotel accommodation and also pilgrim rooms (simple en suite at low cost and with an excellent breakfast included). To contact them about pilgrim accommodation email: info@sanmartinpinario.eu When I walked the Camino Portuguese I forwarded a bag to Ivar and arranged for it to be delivered to San Martin so that it was waiting for me when I arrived. If you do this as @trecile suggested, this should allow you an extra two days of walking, if my calculations based on your dates are correct.

 

[SioCamino]

Re the descent from the Cruz de Ferro, I honestly think this was the toughest (also most beautiful) day of this camino (me from Logroño). The climb is grand but that descent into molinaseca is really really tough and long. I was so happy I was stopping there and not pressing on to ponferrada. Much harder than descent from O Cebreiro (or indeed SJPP/RONCESVALLES).

I walked in pretty good conditions too, dry and not too hot.

So if you can break up those stages and combine other easier ones I would recommend that.

 

[trecile]

Is it possible to change your flight home? You've come so far already, I'd hate to see you have to skip any sections (unless you want to).

 

[ScouseKeith]

Re the descent from the Cruz de Ferro, I honestly think this was the toughest (also most beautiful) day of this camino (from Logroño). The climb is grand but that descent into molinaseca is really really tough. I was so happy I was stopping there and not pressing on to ponferrada. Much harder than descent from O Cebreiro (or indeed SJPP/RONCESVALLES).

I walked in pretty good conditions too, dry and not too hot.

So if you can break up those stages and combine other easier ones I would recommend that.

You’ll find walking from Acebo to molinaseca by road much easier and less stressful terrain.

 

[WalkingLester]

The terrain is easier, relatively, from Triacastela on to Santiago. Maybe make up some time then. Also after Ponferrada until O Cebreiro is pretty flat. Relatively. Maybe take a longer walk to the base of Ocebreiro to Las Herrieas. Then tackle the climb to OC the next day. I don’t know how you feel about skipping sections but the math looks daunting, according to @Anhalter. At least for me it does. After walking in and out of Ponferrada a couple of times, I decided to take a taxi on subsequent trips. So say taxi from Molinaseca into Ponferrada and then the next day taxi out of the urban sections of Ponferrada and pick up the camino and start walking. Or just taxi through Ponferrada. This won’t affect your qualifying for a Compostela. Just a thought.

 

[SL74]

So, I’m beginning my fifth week on the Camino. It certainly has been a journey filled with surprises. The novelty and excitement have worn off. But after a rest day in León, I’ve recovered enough to resume my walk. I hope that my resolve is enough to sustain me through these coming days. My spirit is strong but my flesh is weak.

My post for today:
León to San Martín del Camino. 15.7 miles, 25.37 Km

I left my Leon albergue around 6:30 AM, surprised to see they were actually hosing the street, no wonder the neighborhood looked so clean! Alas, the route out of town led me to some grimy, industrial areas, then into some suburbs where nothing was open, since after all, it’s Sunday. Eventually a man who had a roadside stand enticed me to coffee and a muffin, not quite enough but better than nothing. All he asked was a donativo, which I gladly gave and moved on.

A couple of towns later, a cafe was open and I was able to eat my tortilla and had OJ before moving on. The route wasn’t all that remarkable, but at least the day was sunny and cool, perfect for walking. I met a very friendly couple from Ohio, a young Italian lady, a South Korean who wasn’t used to talk to strangers but was making the effort, as usual these connections were nice but temporary as they moved on.

Today was my first day with my day bag, it made a huge difference in the weight, but eventually my blisters slowed me down, but at least, I wasn’t exhausted.

I arrived at my Albergue around 2 PM, the place was packed with pilgrims and locals, making the check-in, and later, lunch, a confusing endeavor, Rventuslly I settled in, showered, napped, did laundry, and a member of this forum RJE recognized me, so we started to talk for a while, it was the highlight of the day,

Tomorrow I head to Astorga, s distance similar to today. I’ll stay at a hotel since I couldn’t communicate with any albergue, so might as well splurge. The next few days will be difficult because of reaching Cruz de Ferro, so I’ll need time to process whatever comes up for me. I hope I can stay the course…

FB post (slightly edited) for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/puEcEyHDL44oT1kB/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Hi Hector,
I have been watching your posts in the last few days with much enjoyment!
I am starting my first Camino on Wednesday from Leon and I was wondering if I could ask why you chose to go via

So, I’m beginning my fifth week on the Camino. It certainly has been a journey filled with surprises. The novelty and excitement have worn off. But after a rest day in León, I’ve recovered enough to resume my walk. I hope that my resolve is enough to sustain me through these coming days. My spirit is strong but my flesh is weak.

My post for today:
León to San Martín del Camino. 15.7 miles, 25.37 Km

I left my Leon albergue around 6:30 AM, surprised to see they were actually hosing the street, no wonder the neighborhood looked so clean! Alas, the route out of town led me to some grimy, industrial areas, then into some suburbs where nothing was open, since after all, it’s Sunday. Eventually a man who had a roadside stand enticed me to coffee and a muffin, not quite enough but better than nothing. All he asked was a donativo, which I gladly gave and moved on.

A couple of towns later, a cafe was open and I was able to eat my tortilla and had OJ before moving on. The route wasn’t all that remarkable, but at least the day was sunny and cool, perfect for walking. I met a very friendly couple from Ohio, a young Italian lady, a South Korean who wasn’t used to talk to strangers but was making the effort, as usual these connections were nice but temporary as they moved on.

Today was my first day with my day bag, it made a huge difference in the weight, but eventually my blisters slowed me down, but at least, I wasn’t exhausted.

I arrived at my Albergue around 2 PM, the place was packed with pilgrims and locals, making the check-in, and later, lunch, a confusing endeavor, Rventuslly I settled in, showered, napped, did laundry, and a member of this forum RJE recognized me, so we started to talk for a while, it was the highlight of the day,

Tomorrow I head to Astorga, s distance similar to today. I’ll stay at a hotel since I couldn’t communicate with any albergue, so might as well splurge. The next few days will be difficult because of reaching Cruz de Ferro, so I’ll need time to process whatever comes up for me. I hope I can stay the course…

FB post (slightly edited) for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/puEcEyHDL44oT1kB/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Hi Hector
I have been watching your posts in the last few days with much interest!
I am starting my first Camino on Wednesday leaving from Leon. I was also planning to go via San Martin instead of Villar de Mazarife but I have read a few times now that leaving Leon is not so nice. I am equally a bit worried about the 30 kms from Villar to Astorga as I am just starting.
I was curious if you could share why you chose this route and have any insight so I can chose which way to go.
Many thanks!
Stephanie

 

[JabbaPapa]

In terms of working out your dates, how important is it that you receive the Compostela? That will determine what you might "skip" prior to Sarria.

Getting a Compostela is pretty quick nowadays.

 

[HBS60]

Have you booked accommodation in Santiago yet? If not I suggest getting in touch with Hospaderia San Martin Pinario, They have hotel accommodation and also pilgrim rooms (simple en suite at low cost and with an excellent breakfast included). To contact them about pilgrim accommodation email: info@sanmartinpinario.eu When I walked the Camino Portuguese I forwarded a bag to Ivar and arranged for it to be delivered to San Martin so that it was waiting for me when I arrived. If you do this as @trecile suggested, this should allow you an extra two days of walking, if my calculations based on your dates are correct.

I haven’t yet because I don’t know my exact arrival date. I just emailed them explaining my situation.

I just have a thought: will Ivar ship things to Madrid? I have a train ride on the 23rd, but so far I haven’t made accommodations (any suggestions?). So I wonder if he would ship things to my Madrid hotel so it’s there when I arrive.
I could change my flight, that’s an option, I have to pay the fee difference, which is probably substantial, but that’s an option…

 

[WalkingLester]

@ivar might. It’s worth asking. He shipped my stuff to the USA when we had to abandon the camino before Santiago, due to some virus.

 

[BarbaraW]

Another vote here for stopping at El Acebo after what will probably be an emotionally and physically taxing day. And for taking transport to give you more time to savour the last section of the Camino and Santiago and to process your experience without feeling exhausted.

 

[HBS60]

San Martin del Camino to Astorga, 15.1 miles, 25.3 Km
Mostly uneventful day. I left early, a little after 6:30 AM, before breakfast was served, as I knew I had a long walk today. I walked 7 Km to the first town that had anything open, Hospital de Órbigo, where I indulged not in a regular tortilla, but a ham and cheese one, of course I had my cafe con leche. The bar where I ate breakfast is located just before entering town, which is by way of a centuries-old bridge where epic battles have taken place.

I liked the feel of the town itself, but tried not to linger because of the distance. After town, I had the choice of a longer, prettier alternate route, but I chose the more direct one as I don’t really want to walk more than necessary.

So I walked along a main highway (on a gravel path protected by guardrails), and later in the morning I came upon a gas station with a store and cafe, so I had a second breakfast, which I’m glad I did.

The trail was starting to have uphills, and the day was really warming up, so I was struggling a bit, but not as much as I had a full backpack.

Eventually I reached a spot where there was a cross on top of a hill, overlooking San Justo de la Vega and just a little farther away, Astorga. It was a magnificent view with the mountains in the background.

I reached my hotel around 2:30 PM, tired and sweaty. It’s the Hotel Gaudí, a very luxurious hotel across from the Gaudí castle. It was t my first choice but I had trouble finding accommodations for today, but the price of 70 € for a single room with no view is better than many lesser quality hotels I stayed it.

I rested a little, and dipped into the tub for a hot bath, much needed! Then I started the familiar scramble of calling albergues to reserve a bed for the next day, so I could tell the luggage transport company where to send it.

After taking care of that, I tried to get something to eat, but of course, it’s not possible to find a place that serves food until 8-8:30PM. I did go to a supermercado and bought ham, bread, two apples and cupcakes for tomorrow’s breakfast. I do see there are several towns in my route that have restaurants so I hope at least one is open by the time I need it.

I haven’t done any sightseeing because I’m just too tired after a day of walking, but from what little I saw, Astorga seems like a nice town.

Tomorrow will be another day, another town, new challenges, new experiences…
https://www.facebook.com/hector.bar...AthEdNusdoKDjtY11KhFRrL6SPNXaFuiyoLdfu4GR1FPl
Facebook link for pics

 

[HBS60]

You’ll find walking from Acebo to molinaseca by road much easier and less stressful terrain.

How do I find that route? Im guessing it’s off the Camino

 

[HBS60]

Hi Hector,
I have been watching your posts in the last few days with much enjoyment!
I am starting my first Camino on Wednesday from Leon and I was wondering if I could ask why you chose to go via

Hi Hector
I have been watching your posts in the last few days with much interest!
I am starting my first Camino on Wednesday leaving from Leon. I was also planning to go via San Martin instead of Villar de Mazarife but I have read a few times now that leaving Leon is not so nice. I am equally a bit worried about the 30 kms from Villar to Astorga as I am just starting.
I was curious if you could share why you chose this route and have any insight so I can chose which way to go.
Many thanks!
Stephanie

I chose San Martin because it’s much closer, and I’ve been struggling with my feet, as well as trying to get to Cruz de Ferro on the 11th. I agree that getting out of Leon isn’t very nice, but I’m not sure how that makes a difference in which route to take. I did a little scouting the day before so I knew where to go early in the morning when it’s hard to see the arrows. If you meet kindred folk, you might want to walk this portion together for extra eyes and for safety. I hope this helps!

 

[J Willhaus]

How do I find that route? Im guessing it’s off the Camino

You will see the road. There's a monument to a bicyclist. El Acebo is a very small town.

 

[unadara]

Hector I cant answer re any Route alternatives But someone above gave info re San Martin Pinario reservations. Below is the correct email address. May I say as you're doing so well and I've been reading your posts to Try not to worry too far ahead? Enjoy these next few days with your lighter bag and stay strong as you are getting stronger day by day, Reservas Hospedería San Martín Pinario <reservas@sanmartinpinario.eu>

 

[SEB2]

Hector I cant answer re any Route alternatives But someone above gave info re San Martin Pinario reservations. Below is the correct email address. May I say as you're doing so well and I've been reading your posts to Try not to worry too far ahead? Enjoy these next few days with your lighter bag and stay strong as you are getting stronger day by day, Reservas Hospedería San Martín Pinario <reservas@sanmartinpinario.eu>

@unadara I understood that the email address you have listed was for booking hotel rooms only at San Martin Pinario but as it is years since I stayed there, my apologies to Hector if I have supplied incorrect information.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

You’ll find walking from Acebo to molinaseca by road much easier and less stressful terrain.

I enjoyed the challenge of the interesting changes of the true trail/path from El Acebo to Molinaseca. Almost all of the Caminos I have walked have occasional (and sometimes more) road walking, so I avoid it when I can.

 

[walkingagain]

Thanks for the heads up, much appreciated! I just arrived at Astorga a few minutes ago, and I need to plan for tomorrow. I could end tomorrow at either Rabanal or Foncebadón, my preference would be the latter trying to minimize the distance to Ponferrada. I do want to process, but getting there too late or lingering too long may result in prolonging the day walking to Ponferrada, hopefully the weather will be OK.

For us Foncebadón to Ponferrada was the hardest and longest day of our Camino. But that the most breathtaking mountain views too!

The pizza place in Foncebadón was one of our favorite meals and the owner even serenaded us with classic songs - keeps a guitar by the door.

You will love the wonderful cafe that appears in the middle of the mountain a few kilometers after Cruz de Ferro - it will seem like a mirage - you may even hear its music in the distance and wonder you’re imagining it!

A little while after the cafe the path gets very rocky and tough on the feet for a few kilometers of the descent so many people take the road.

Buen camino Héctor!

 

[SL74]

I chose San Martin because it’s much closer, and I’ve been struggling with my feet, as well as trying to get to Cruz de Ferro on the 11th. I agree that getting out of Leon isn’t very nice, but I’m not sure how that makes a difference in which route to take. I did a little scouting the day before so I knew where to go early in the morning when it’s hard to see the arrows. If you meet kindred folk, you might want to walk this portion together for extra eyes and for safety. I hope this helps!

Thank you so much! Very useful info indeed so.. looks like I am back to plan A. Hopefully won't get lost on my first day

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Thank you so much! Very useful info indeed so.. looks like I am back to plan A. Hopefully won't get lost on my first day

I see Hector is already helping other people with some good advice!

 

[JabbaPapa]

How do I find that route? Im guessing it’s off the Camino

There's just the one road, and the road and trail are parallel to each other.

 

[Camo]

San Martin del Camino to Astorga, 15.1 miles, 25.3 Km

Google says you saved 1.2 km by taking the short cut on the road and you are still at 72% the google AI person (who dont need coffee breaks) - so 2 days well over 20 km at a good rate and no complaints tells me you are in good shape to meet your deadlines (Santiago willing )

 

[VNwalking]

I could change my flight, that’s an option, I have to pay the fee difference, which is probably substantial, but that’s an option…

Do it! You won't regret the breathing space. The Camino is precious, not to be rushed - so if you can change the booking, go for it!
The stages coming up are tough, but very special. It'd be a pity to miss any of it.

 

[VNwalking]

You’ll find walking from Acebo to molinaseca by road much easier and less stressful terrain.

But...it is nothing by comparison to the very beautiful (but, yes sometimes challenging) off-road path. For me the part above Acebo is far harder than the descent into Molinaseca. Slow and steady is all that's needed. It's easy to take the parallel road above Acebo, and sometimes quite a relief. But below Acebo, the road and camino eventually part company - and that's the part where I prefer the camino over the road.

If you change your flight and have more time, Rabanal to Acebo is a nice distance - and the Compline with Gregorian Chant at Rabanal is really special, not to be missed.

 

[HBS60]

Ahh, decisions!

It’s 4:30 AM (I’m always an early riser) and I’m weighting my options.

According to Wise Pilgrim, it’s 231.7 Km from Foncebadon to SDC. Departing Foncebadon on the 11th, that gives me 10 days to SDC arriving on the 20th, or 23.17 Km per day, so it might be doable.

I originally planned to arrive to SDC on Sunday the 22nd the first day of autumn, a new season. I reconsidered the date when I realized picking up my bag at Ivar’s could be a problem. I’m aware that Ivar opens half hour on Sundays in the evening, but that’s cutting it too close. If I can arrange for the bag to be delivered directly to wherever I’ll stay, that would help a lot!

Arriving to SDC on the 22nd would mean that I have 12 days to cover the 232.7 Km, or 19.3 Km per day, which seems doable a
Lthough cutting it close.

I did send an email to the place in SDC, no response so far, I know from reading the responses it might have been the wrong address, so I’ll send it to the right address, no rush, I have time.

Re: skipping segments, El Acebo, etc. I’ll decide today when I get to Foncebadon today. It looks like I might try continuing to walk through the road, not the trail, if it gets to be too much, I can taxi a few kilometers to Ponferrada if need be. Where can I find taxi information?

I want to be able to say that I walked every step of the way, but I know I shouldn’t be stubborn about it.

If I do skip some portions, when getting the Compostela, do I need to change my starting point to, say, Sarria?

The weather can influence my decisions. I’ll walk as long as I can if the weather is good. I don’t mind if I get some rain, but I don’t want to walk through stormy weather (done that already).

I need suggestions for a place to stay in Madrid. I understand my train from SDCwill be arriving at Chamartin, I’ll need a place close to the airport as I have a 10 AM flight the next day and I like to get to the gate early.

That’s it for now, I’m glad I have several days to decide these things.

Thanks for all the input! Much appreciated!

 

[trecile]

I did send an email to the place in SDC, no response so far, I know from reading the responses it might have been the wrong address, so I’ll send it to the right address, no rush, I have time.

Call them at +34981560282 and ask for a pilgrim room

 

[HBS60]

Update! Update!

I changed my flight to the 26, two extra days for breathing space! So I don’t have to worry about weekend closures.

I’ll still try to get to SDC around the 20th, but have more wiggle room.

 

[HBS60]

Do it! You won't regret the breathing space. The Camino is precious, not to be rushed - so if you can change the booking, go for it!
The stages coming up are tough, but very special. It'd be a pity to miss any of it.

Just did it! Gave myself two extra days, and it only cost me 11 dollars!

 

[VNwalking]

Woo hoo!!! Fantastic.

I want to be able to say that I walked every step of the way, but I know I shouldn’t be stubborn about it.

No, indeed. And now you have more time.
If you find yourself thinking of taking the taxi, another thing to pay attention to what's going on in the background. Are you simply nervous about a stretch of the camino that people are talking about? If so, remember how you've faced that before, over the Pyrenees and everything after that. And how good it felt to prevail when you doubted you could.

The main thing to consider is how you'll feel about having done that. The same action could be either wisdom or caving in - and only you'll know which it is.

If I do skip some portions, when getting the Compostela, do I need to change my starting point to, say, Sarria?

Plenty of people take taxis for part of a stage. And they get Compostelas.

Where can I find taxi information?

On telephone poles, fence posts, or pretty much anywhere convenient as you come into pueblos - just keep your eyes peeled.

 

[Anhalter]

Congrats to changing your flights! Now you should have plenty of time. I totally understand the "walk every step" attitude.

Regarding the descent into Molinaseca: I walked it twice, once starting in Foncebadon, once having started 16,7km before Foncebadon. Doing it fresh in the morning was a whole different world. That there was something in the air giving me allergies the second time did not help either.
It is a tough one. But taking your time, with what you already achieved, i think you can do it. Unless the weather is super bad. Maybe do send your heavy items ahead again.

With the added time, take your time (I know i'm repeating myself) at least until Sarria. See how the camino feels for you from there. Last time around it was such a strange feeling for me that we ended up walking super long days and actually making up a whole day over that final stretch.

 

[ScouseKeith]

Have you booked accommodation in Santiago yet? If not I suggest getting in touch with Hospaderia San Martin Pinario, They have hotel accommodation and also pilgrim rooms (simple en suite at low cost and with an excellent breakfast included). To contact them about pilgrim accommodation email: info@sanmartinpinario.eu When I walked the Camino Portuguese I forwarded a bag to Ivar and arranged for it to be delivered to San Martin so that it was waiting for me when I arrived. If you do this as @trecile suggested, this should allow you an extra two days of walking, if my calculations based on your dates are correct.

It’s well worth the extra few euros to book the hospederia san Martin. Yes the rooms are small but en suite, clean and very quite perfect for that first night in Santiago. The food is excellent, they do a special price for pilgrims for dinner and breakfast you can’t fault it it’s a perfect end to a perfect journey. Keith

 

[unadara]

Hector
I'm so pleased you've changed the flight. Enjoy.
As I walked this year my arrival date into Santiago changed and I was able with only a few days notice to change my San Martin Pinario reservation, I've stayed there almost always since my first Camino 2011. I received an almost instant response. I was advised that the Reception desk takes a break mid-day. I've always used reservas@sanmartinpinario.eu
cost
this year was 29euro. I didn't get lucky and get one of the newly renovated rooms, I loved it anyway. They treat you just like the 4 star guests, or maybe even better?.

 

[J Willhaus]

I will also say the breakfast is not the typical albergue breakfast of toast and lukewarm coffee. It isn't the Paradore breakfast, but it is substantial and much more affordable as it is included in your room cost.

 

[DJames]

Hector, this morning, i prayed to God asking for Him to send his Holy Spirt to you and help you with your physical and spiritual needs as you make your way to the iron cross. You have a determination that will get you to the Apostle in santiago. give him a hug for me please. Peace be with you.

 

[HBS60]

Astorga to Foncebadón: 16.2 miles 26 Km

I left Astorga a bit later despite being awake since 4:30 AM. I packed my cPAP machine, ate the breakfast I bought at the súper the night before, I headed out at my usual time around 6:30 AM, but the hotel cafe was open so I got my mandatory cafe con leche. Exiting Astorga wasn’t difficult, and soon enough there was Pilgrim rush hour and I was caught in the traffic. Shortly after leaving Astorga, there is this cute Ermita (sort of a free standing chapel), it was open so I peeked inside. It was beautifully decorated without being opulent, I was moved with the sincerity these people put into their work.

I moved on as I knew I had to walk a lot. I had breakfast at Murias de Rechivaldo, then resumed my walk, passing several cute towns. I noticed a change in both the building style, with houses made of stones, instead of mud and adobe as I saw back in the meseta. I also noticed a change in the vegetation, instead of the straw colored hay-like brush, there were more dark green bushes and trees, and some forest like areas. We were also climbing.

Initially the terrain was flat, but it started to get steep, initially slightly, but later more pronounced. It was a gorgeously beautiful day, although it warmed up fairly quickly, so I had to shed a couple layers.

A significant moment for me was approaching Santa Catalina de la Somoza and finding a rest area with a labyrinth of stones. This was very meaningful to me for very personal reasons. Six years ago I went to treatment for complex PTSD, which had worsened due to bad experiences at a particular clinic. The treatment center was very good and I got a lot out of it, and they had a labyrinth exercise that was eye opening. Unfortunately I have felt lots of resentments about the clinic where I felt retraumatized, so I’ve been carrying a stone I picked from their parking lot, hoping to either drop it at Cruz de Ferro, or elsewhere that might feel appropriate.

When I saw this particular labyrinth, I knew this was the place. I entered the labyrinth, followed the path to the center, where there was a pile of rocks, so I dropped mine, and I retraced my steps back to exit. I gave a prayer of thanks to those that were simply trying to help me. It was a very emotional moment.

I resumed my walk, and I was very impressed with how well kept and beautiful many towns kept their buildings. As I continued to climb, it became harder to care about these things, but I could tell I was getting higher in the mountains, but the slope was gentle and manageable, until Rabanal del Camino. Just getting there took me up some wicked slopes, and I knew it would get even worse between this town and Foncebadón, so I stopped for lunch.

I wanted to linger after lunch, but it was already after 1PM and I knew it would be a rough climb. At first it was not so bad, but it started to get steeper and rocky, very difficult to navigate. At this point I meet these two Spaniard couples, and the men were chatting with me about our countries. One of them was trying to explain to me what the heck is “Cocido Maragato”, which is a big thing in this area, all while navigating horribly rocky terrain. It certainly helped me pass the time.

Eventually we made it to the top, and arrived at Foncebadón, which is at the very top of the mountain we were climbing. As I understand it, this used to be a ghost town but it’s been resurrected, with brand new establishments and enjoying a breathtaking view of the valley below, where you can see Astorga, making the climb worth it.

The various albergues are close to each other, a little crowd was enjoying the afternoon sun, playing guitar, the atmosphere helped so much forget the grueling efforts of todays climb.

Tonight we are having community dinner, and tomorrow I have my commitment to be at Cruz de Ferro, on the exact date I wanted to be there. It’s only 2.3 Km from this town, so I am practically there, and I’m grateful for all the support I’ver got to help me get to this point. I will then move on to Molinaseca because I don’t want to walk all the way to Ponferrada.

I’ve been a bit stressed because I was trying to get to Santiago on Friday, September 20, but that doesn’t look realistic. Thankfully I was able to change my ticket from the 24th to the 26th, giving me a little more time to finish my pilgrimage, reclaim the package I sent to Santiago several weeks ago, and unwind a little before making the journey home.

Thankfully all this seems to have been sorted out. We had a community dinner, and I struck a conversation with an older Japanese gentleman who happens to be an amateur cellist, do of course I told him all about my amateur classical piano adventures. It was a great way to end the day, overlooking the valley where you can make out Astorga in the distance. It’s getting cold now, but tomorrow will be a new day.

Today has been a hard but good day!

Fb link for pics:

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=pfbid037pDVeR4kpQdpvKR34mTiiVvpTw9bSNLq938aiiMqSFwq9fpihrWWDqSQRYnQ2MM1l&id=510637685

 

[trecile]

Tonight we are having community dinner, and tomorrow I have my commitment to be at Cruz de Ferro, on the exact date I wanted to be there.

I'm so happy that you will be there on the day that you intended!

 

[RJE]

Astorga to Foncebadón: 16.2 miles 26 Km

I left Astorga a bit later despite being awake since 4:30 AM. I packed my cPAP machine, ate the breakfast I bought at the súper the night before, I headed out at my usual time around 6:30 AM, but the hotel cafe was open so I got my mandatory cafe con leche. Exiting Astorga wasn’t difficult, and soon enough there was Pilgrim rush hour and I was caught in the traffic. Shortly after leaving Astorga, there is this cute Ermita (sort of a free standing chapel), it was open so I peeked inside. It was beautifully decorated without being opulent, I was moved with the sincerity these people put into their work.

I moved on as I knew I had to walk a lot. I had breakfast at Murias de Rechivaldo, then resumed my walk, passing several cute towns. I noticed a change in both the building style, with houses made of stones, instead of mud and adobe as I saw back in the meseta. I also noticed a change in the vegetation, instead of the straw colored hay-like brush, there were more dark green bushes and trees, and some forest like areas. We were also climbing.

Initially the terrain was flat, but it started to get steep, initially slightly, but later more pronounced. It was a gorgeously beautiful day, although it warmed up fairly quickly, so I had to shed a couple layers.

A significant moment for me was approaching Santa Catalina de la Somoza and finding a rest area with a labyrinth of stones. This was very meaningful to me for very personal reasons. Six years ago I went to treatment for complex PTSD, which had worsened due to bad experiences at a particular clinic. The treatment center was very good and I got a lot out of it, and they had a labyrinth exercise that was eye opening. Unfortunately I have felt lots of resentments about the clinic where I felt retraumatized, so I’ve been carrying a stone I picked from their parking lot, hoping to either drop it at Cruz de Ferro, or elsewhere that might feel appropriate.

When I saw this particular labyrinth, I knew this was the place. I entered the labyrinth, followed the path to the center, where there was a pile of rocks, so I dropped mine, and I retraced my steps back to exit. I gave a prayer of thanks to those that were simply trying to help me. It was a very emotional moment.

I resumed my walk, and I was very impressed with how well kept and beautiful many towns kept their buildings. As I continued to climb, it became harder to care about these things, but I could tell I was getting higher in the mountains, but the slope was gentle and manageable, until Rabanal del Camino. Just getting there took me up some wicked slopes, and I knew it would get even worse between this town and Foncebadón, so I stopped for lunch.

I wanted to linger after lunch, but it was already after 1PM and I knew it would be a rough climb. At first it was not so bad, but it started to get steeper and rocky, very difficult to navigate. At this point I meet these two Spaniard couples, and the men were chatting with me about our countries. One of them was trying to explain to me what the heck is “Cocido Maragato”, which is a big thing in this area, all while navigating horribly rocky terrain. It certainly helped me pass the time.

Eventually we made it to the top, and arrived at Foncebadón, which is at the very top of the mountain we were climbing. As I understand it, this used to be a ghost town but it’s been resurrected, with brand new establishments and enjoying a breathtaking view of the valley below, where you can see Astorga, making the climb worth it.

The various albergues are close to each other, a little crowd was enjoying the afternoon sun, playing guitar, the atmosphere helped so much forget the grueling efforts of todays climb.

Tonight we are having community dinner, and tomorrow I have my commitment to be at Cruz de Ferro, on the exact date I wanted to be there. It’s only 2.3 Km from this town, so I am practically there, and I’m grateful for all the support I’ver got to help me get to this point. I will then move on to Molinaseca because I don’t want to walk all the way to Ponferrada.

I’ve been a bit stressed because I was trying to get to Santiago on Friday, September 20, but that doesn’t look realistic. Thankfully I was able to change my ticket from the 24th to the 26th, giving me a little more time to finish my pilgrimage, reclaim the package I sent to Santiago several weeks ago, and unwind a little before making the journey home.

Thankfully all this seems to have been sorted out. We had a community dinner, and I struck a conversation with an older Japanese gentleman who happens to be an amateur cellist, do of course I told him all about my amateur classical piano adventures. It was a great way to end the day, overlooking the valley where you can make out Astorga in the distance. It’s getting cold now, but tomorrow will be a new day.

Today has been a hard but good day!

Fb link for pics:

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=pfbid037pDVeR4kpQdpvKR34mTiiVvpTw9bSNLq938aiiMqSFwq9fpihrWWDqSQRYnQ2MM1l&id=510637685

Great recap mi amigo. I’ve been following your footsteps to Astorga and now Foncebadon, since I don’t leave as early as you. It was nice to see the boring plains turn into lush mountains. Congrats on making it to Cruz on the 11th.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Eventually we made it to the top, and arrived at Foncebadón, which is at the very top of the mountain we were climbing. As I understand it, this used to be a ghost town but it’s been resurrected,

When I went through Foncebadon in 2015 it seemed like a near ghost town, quirky and we stopped in for a snack at an outdoor table.
When I walked through again in 2017, there was definitely some new construction projects going on of several buildings and some roadwork through the center of town. I am not surprised it has been resurrected with renovations and new buildings as it has a lovely position on the trail and great views.

 

[naplesdon]

Shortly after leaving Astorga, there is this cute Ermita (sort of a free standing chapel), it was open so I peeked inside. It was beautifully decorated without being opulent, I was moved with the sincerity these people put into their work.

Hector that chapel has a small memorial garden dedicated to Denise.

 

[trecile]

Hector that chapel has a small memorial garden dedicate to Denise. You need to do some homework.

Here's a thread about this memorial to Denise Thiem

Memorial Garden for Denise Thiem near Astorga​

 

[Camo]

Astorga to Foncebadón: 16.2 miles 26 Km

Well done once again Hector. We are not to know what corrections google makes to its algorithms for up/down hills but even though you complain of upward paths you are still at 71% of the google rate and the last 3 walks have been all in the 25 km bracket so looks like you are a bit of a mountain goat

 

[JillGat]

How are your feet? And your blisters? I found an important blister fix last time I walked. While Compeed over a blister can make it more comfortable to continue walking, it does nothing in terms of healing. In fact, in my experience, it can cause the blister to become worse and to last longer. I don't swear by Vaseline, either. Last time I developed a blister - this time on the back of my heel - I popped it and cleaned it thoroughly, leaving it to air dry overnight. Next day, I walked in my Chaco sandals instead of my shoes. I also called for luggage transport that day. A callous formed over that blister and it was no longer a problem. My theory is that reducing moisture is the key.

 

[BarbaraW]

I hope today goes well for you, Hector and the weather is kind for the descent towards your next stop. Please don't feel you need to keep us all updated this afternoon if you need to spend time in other ways on this particular day.

 

[HBS60]

Mission Accomplished
Cruz de Ferro
September 11, 2024
In memory of Randall A. Cain, who left this world exactly 10 years ago today
I’ll never forget you…

 

[ScouseKeith]

Mission Accomplished
Cruz de Ferro
September 11, 2024
In memory of Randall A. Cain, who left this world exactly 10 years ago today
I’ll never forget you…

Well done Héctor

 

[HBS60]

Just arrived at Molinaseca after a harrowing afternoon, almost passed out trying to negotiate the rocks,, but after being ignored by passerbys including a German family who just laughed, a couple of good samaritans noticed I was struggling and took the time to help me. More details later, I just got to my albergue and need to crash for a while.

 

[trecile]

Just arrived at Molinaseca after a harrowing afternoon, almost passed out trying to negotiate the rocks,,

That is a tough day!

 

[HBS60]

Foncebadón to Molinaseca, 13 miles 20.9 Km

I wasn’t planning to post today given how significant this day is to me, but it turned to be a lot more intense for various unrelated reasons.

I headed out after having the Albergue breakfast. It was a freezing 38F degrees (3.3C). It was an uphill trail, which helped me stay warm. It was a glorious sunrise, and soon enough I was at Cruz de Ferro. As expected, there were other pilgrims hanging around. Suffice to say that it was a very emotional moment. An older Spaniard gentleman noticed that I was trying to take a selfie, so he offered to take my pic, telling me that my feelings counted and were important, not the type of thing I expected from an older man.

I lingered around, trying to absorb the present moment. Then I saw my friend fellow walker Jim from Australia, whom I haven’t seen since we bumped into each other in Frómista. I figured he would be in Galicia by now. We exchanged incredulous glances and gave each other a joyful hug. I did mention that I was doing some grief work, we chatted briefly but he then moved on…

…then he came back, wanting to take a selfie of both of us. We had taken a selfie weeks ago, I think we were leaving Viana that day, a happy occasion. He said that friendship is important during grief, and that meant a lot to me.

Eventually, I moved on. The trail kept climbing higher and higher, and eventually I was at the summit of a mountain, and it’s actually the highest point of the Camino Francés, with gorgeous views and wonderful cool weather.

It went downhill from there. The terrain has been rocky all along, but it seems to me more treacherous going down, requiring a lot of concentration, effort, and using my trekking poles. I was doing OK, then I heard a woman scream behind me. I saw that she had fallen, so I backtracked to check on her, although other people were also helping. I had met her and her mother at the Albergue community dinner. They were Swedish but their English was pretty good.

Apparently she fell and hit her head, and she was bleeding from a cut in her cheek. Other people were helping her washing her wound but she was very anxious, so I tried to calm her down. After a while, she seemed OK and was able to stand up. Everybody had left by then but I stayed, wanting to make sure she was OK standing up. She was alert and oriented and assured me she was OK, so I told her and her mother to go ahead, that way if she ran into trouble I would be able to see them. They thanked me profusely and went on.

My day wasn’t over, yet. I reached El Acebo, where I saw the Swedish ladies who continued to thank me. After lunch, it all went downhill in so many ways. “The descent into Molinaseca” has the reputation of being very difficult, but there was the alternative of taking the highway, which I did. I continued to enjoy the gorgeous views, watching Ponferrada down in the valley before. I noticed that the Camino and the highway seemed intertwined, crisscrossing at various points, so I tried to “sample” a Camino segment. It was challenging because of the rocks, but not horribly difficult. Then I came upon another highway stretch more to my liking, but longer than taking the Camino. I walked the highway again, but I really wanted to get to my albergue, so I thought that by now it would be a short distance.

Big mistake. The “Camino” was a nightmare of huge rocks and boulders, and it took every effort to navigate, trying my best not to fall and break something. Several passerby’s saw me struggling, I told them I was having a hard time, but just tried to encourage me before moving on. A German family even laughed at me, not sure if they understood my predicament.

Although the temperature was cool, I was feeling overheated, and overwhelmed by the endless succession of rocks. At this point a biker passed me, which I wasn’t expecting in this segment. He had to stop at a narrow point and looks at me, struggling, and asked me if I was OK, and I said “no”

To my amazement, he came to my help, gave me water, offered to accompany me, and even took my backpack. He is Syrian but lives in Spain and speaks perfect Spanish. Then an Uruguayan lady joins us. Turns out she is a doctor, and she insisted I drink her electrolyte solution and a Coke Zero. We sat on the trail so I could rest, got to know each other a little bit. The Syrian guy has s difficult to remember name but said he can be called Adam, the lady s name was Virginia. We talked about Cruz de Ferro and the losses we’ve had. He was biking today to Sarria, she was walking to Ponferrada. I was just going to Molinaseca, which was the next town. We took a selfie, on each of our phones, and was given permission to post it on FB (I always ask).

Eventually I was feeling better, so we got up. He continued to carry my backpack, and they escorted me all the way not just to the road, but to Molinaseca AND to the Albergue. I walked in half dead.

I am humbled by the selfless generosity of these kind folks, who reminded me of the Good Samaritan story. Bring that I used to be a healthcare worker, it’s natural for me to offer help to others, but not needing it or receiving it so unconditionally.

As I write this, I’m feeling much better. I showered, I went out to eat and found a restaurant that was actually open at 6:30 PM (yay!).

I’m planning a short walk tomorrow, on (hopefully) level ground. I hope to be able to digest today’s experiences and cultivate a sense of gratitude.

FB link for Pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/eN9L5vbMxXRocXcm/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[ScouseKeith]

Foncebadón to Molinaseca, 13 miles 20.9 Km

I wasn’t planning to post today given how significant this day is to me, but it turned to be a lot more intense for various unrelated reasons.

I headed out after having the Albergue breakfast. It was a freezing 38F degrees (3.3C). It was an uphill trail, which helped me stay warm. It was a glorious sunrise, and soon enough I was at Cruz de Ferro. As expected, there were other pilgrims hanging around. Suffice to say that it was a very emotional moment. An older Spaniard gentleman noticed that I was trying to take a selfie, so he offered to take my pic, telling me that my feelings counted and were important, not the type of thing I expected from an older man.

I lingered around, trying to absorb the present moment. Then I saw my friend fellow walker Jim from Australia, whom I haven’t seen since we bumped into each other in Frómista. I figured he would be in Galicia by now. We exchanged incredulous glances and gave each other a joyful hug. I did mention that I was doing some grief work, we chatted briefly but he then moved on…

…then he came back, wanting to take a selfie of both of us. We had taken a selfie weeks ago, I think we were leaving Viana that day, a happy occasion. He said that friendship is important during grief, and that meant a lot to me.

Eventually, I moved on. The trail kept climbing higher and higher, and eventually I was at the summit of a mountain, and it’s actually the highest point of the Camino Francés, with gorgeous views and wonderful cool weather.

It went downhill from there. The terrain has been rocky all along, but it seems to me more treacherous going down, requiring a lot of concentration, effort, and using my trekking poles. I was doing OK, then I heard a woman scream behind me. I saw that she had fallen, so I backtracked to check on her, although other people were also helping. I had met her and her mother at the Albergue community dinner. They were Swedish but their English was pretty good.

Apparently she fell and hit her head, and she was bleeding from a cut in her cheek. Other people were helping her washing her wound but she was very anxious, so I tried to calm her down. After a while, she seemed OK and was able to stand up. Everybody had left by then but I stayed, wanting to make sure she was OK standing up. She was alert and oriented and assured me she was OK, so I told her and her mother to go ahead, that way if she ran into trouble I would be able to see them. They thanked me profusely and went on.

My day wasn’t over, yet. I reached El Acebo, where I saw the Swedish ladies who continued to thank me. After lunch, it all went downhill in so many ways. “The descent into Molinaseca” has the reputation of being very difficult, but there was the alternative of taking the highway, which I did. I continued to enjoy the gorgeous views, watching Ponferrada down in the valley before. I noticed that the Camino and the highway seemed intertwined, crisscrossing at various points, so I tried to “sample” a Camino segment. It was challenging because of the rocks, but not horribly difficult. Then I came upon another highway stretch more to my liking, but longer than taking the Camino. I walked the highway again, but I really wanted to get to my albergue, so I thought that by now it would be a short distance.

Big mistake. The “Camino” was a nightmare of huge rocks and boulders, and it took every effort to navigate, trying my best not to fall and break something. Several passerby’s saw me struggling, I told them I was having a hard time, but just tried to encourage me before moving on. A German family even laughed at me, not sure if they understood my predicament.

Although the temperature was cool, I was feeling overheated, and overwhelmed by the endless succession of rocks. At this point a biker passed me, which I wasn’t expecting in this segment. He had to stop at a narrow point and looks at me, struggling, and asked me if I was OK, and I said “no”

To my amazement, he came to my help, gave me water, offered to accompany me, and even took my backpack. He is Syrian but lives in Spain and speaks perfect Spanish. Then an Uruguayan lady joins us. Turns out she is a doctor, and she insisted I drink her electrolyte solution and a Coke Zero. We sat on the trail so I could rest, got to know each other a little bit. The Syrian guy has s difficult to remember name but said he can be called Adam, the lady s name was Virginia. We talked about Cruz de Ferro and the losses we’ve had. He was biking today to Sarria, she was walking to Ponferrada. I was just going to Molinaseca, which was the next town. We took a selfie, on each of our phones, and was given permission to post it on FB (I always ask).

Eventually I was feeling better, so we got up. He continued to carry my backpack, and they escorted me all the way not just to the road, but to Molinaseca AND to the Albergue. I walked in half dead.

I am humbled by the selfless generosity of these kind folks, who reminded me of the Good Samaritan story. Bring that I used to be a healthcare worker, it’s natural for me to offer help to others, but not needing it or receiving it so unconditionally.

As I write this, I’m feeling much better. I showered, I went out to eat and found a restaurant that was actually open at 6:30 PM (yay!).

I’m planning a short walk tomorrow, on (hopefully) level ground. I hope to be able to digest today’s experiences and cultivate a sense of gratitude.

FB link for Pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/eN9L5vbMxXRocXcm/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Hi Héctor
Sounds like you’ve had a painful day. Some words of advice. We are both of similar age and that comes with its own challenges. If you’re using the John Brieley guide book all the better it shows alternative options you can use. Most of the Camino trail usually has a tarmac road running parallel to it and last year when I was really suffering from tendinitis I couldn’t walk the uneven trails I was isolated much pain so I used the roads and what a difference. I still found it painful but at least it was flat and not as stressful on my shin it allowed me time over a week to ease my leg back to health. It’s worth thinking about Héctor. Keith

 

[VNwalking]

The trail kept climbing higher and higher,

Did we walk the same camino?
I've done that stretch after Cruz de Fero (not just once) and remember it as essentially flat until it starts going downhill towards Acebo at about Manjarin.
I had to check a map with elevations and found my memory is wrong - it's actually downhill from the Cruz itself, without further uphill. Perception can definitely be weird.

I walked in half dead.

This may be poetic hyperbole, but you made it fine. Maybe feeling exhausted, but this is what's more worth focusing on!:

As I write this, I’m feeling much better

That's reality.
Bravo, Hector. You did it. The rest of the camino isn't flat by any means but you've now successfully overcome the hardest rockiest bits. Worth rejoicing in and giving yourself huge credit.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Did we walk the same camino?
I've done that stretch after Cruz de Fero (not just once) and remember it as essentially flat until it starts going downhill towards Acebo at about Manjarin.
I had to check a map with elevations and found my memory is wrong - it's actually downhill from the Cruz itself, without further uphill. Perception can definitely be weird.

The "official" Camino there is actually the tarmac not the trail, as the trail is not passable when there's snow, but the road is cleared in that circumstance (though it can stay closed for a day or three sometimes AFAIK).

Cruz de Ferro is the highest point on the tarmac.

It is not the highest point on the trail, as become evident to me walking in the opposite direction in 2022 -- there's one point where the trail perches quite high above the road (at a certain point between the Cruz and the edge of the crest towards El Acebo & Molinaseca), and from there it's downhill to the Cruz de Ferro.

https://en.mapy.cz/turisticka?l=0&x=-6.4168603&y=42.4902296&z=17

 

[HBS60]

Did we walk the same camino?
I've done that stretch after Cruz de Fero (not just once) and remember it as essentially flat until it starts going downhill towards Acebo at about Manjarin.
I had to check a map with elevations and found my memory is wrong - it's actually downhill from the Cruz itself, without further uphill. Perception can definitely be weird

It does go down from CdF to Manjarín, but then it goes up and up until reaching Alto de Cerezales, which is actually the highest point of the Camino Francés, not the CdF. After Alto de Cerezales it goes down to El Acebo. I’m attaching a screen shot of the Wise Pilgrim app profile for that section.

 

[HBS60]

Hi Héctor
Sounds like you’ve had a painful day. Some words of advice. We are both of similar age and that comes with its own challenges. If you’re using the John Brieley guide book all the better it shows alternative options you can use. Most of the Camino trail usually has a tarmac road running parallel to it and last year when I was really suffering from tendinitis I couldn’t walk the uneven trails I was isolated much pain so I used the roads and what a difference. I still found it painful but at least it was flat and not as stressful on my shin it allowed me time over a week to ease my leg back to health. It’s worth thinking about Héctor. Keith

The road was fine, I wish I had stayed on it. But some commenters said it wasn’t that hard and that while challenging, the scenery was great. For me it was even worse than Zubiri, and the only scenery I saw was looking down on the rocks trying to find secure footing while holding on my trekking poles for dear life. The scenery from the road was much better.

 

[Camo]

there's one point where the trail perches quite high above the road (at a certain point between the Cruz and the edge of the crest towards El Acebo & Molinaseca),

Correct and that shows at 0:11 on Hector's Relive video as Pena de la Escurpia at 1529 m. Thankfully a pilgrim in 2015 took an amazing DIY Street View pano from the top which one can see on Google Maps

 

[VNwalking]

I’m attaching a screen shot of the Wise Pilgrim app profile for that section.

My topo map with altitude says it goes up a about 90 meters. That's up but not that much. My repeated experience of that stretch is that the rocks are far more of a challenge, as you experienced - and prevailed over!

 

[JabbaPapa]

The road was fine, I wish I had stayed on it. But some commenters said it wasn’t that hard and that while challenging, the scenery was great. For me it was even worse than Zubiri, and the only scenery I saw was looking down on the rocks trying to find secure footing while holding on my trekking poles for dear life.

It's actually worse going upwards in the other direction.

There is one last big descent, from the Alto do Poio after O Cebreiro -- easy at the start of it, but it gets a little tricky towards Triacastela. It's not rocky, it's just steep, which can be troublesome on bad knees and/or ankles -- though there are a few Albergues to cut that section and make it easier.

 

[Anhalter]

Glad you made it!

There is one more tough mountain to tackle, up to O'Cebreiro. There is an option to do it on horseback, starting from Las Herrerias. Never done it myself, so no idea of the cost and how to book it, but i thought it might be a nice alternative for you. Maybe someone who has more information can provide it.

 

[JillGat]

My topo map with altitude says it goes up a about 90 meters. That's up but not that much. My repeated experience of that stretch is that the rocks are far more of a challenge, as you experienced - and prevailed over!

What's this "topo map" of which you speak?

 

[JillGat]

Glad you made it!

There is one more tough mountain to tackle, up to O'Cebreiro. There is an option to do it on horseback, starting from Las Herrerias. Never done it myself, so no idea of the cost and how to book it, but i thought it might be a nice alternative for you. Maybe someone who has more information can provide it.

I have no memory of almost any of this "rockiness" that Hector describes. I remember a couple of short, dodgy, downhill rocky stretches, but that's about it. I enjoy my selective memory. I DID suffer up the hill from SJPdP and the climb to O'Cebreiro. But felt such a sense of accomplishment! I found most of the other hills to be easier if I was singing.
I say send that CPaP and other heavy stuff ahead with luggage transport. I wish your walk were more enjoyable and less grueling!

 

[WalkingLester]

For me the key to tackling big hills is just to walk at a steady slow pace. Also I have stopped in La Faba and La Laguna to break up the climb.

 

[VNwalking]

What's this "topo map" of which you speak?

OSMand with the optional contour lines. A godsend, because it gives a good idea od what's ahead, unlike profiles, which can be misleading. But it's only available on the paid version.
They're really beautiful maps, and as the name implies, open sourced. A screenshot, the wider yellow line is the camino:

For me the key to tackling big hills is just to walk at a steady slow pace.

And not to get pyched out by how hard they look, might be, or are in the moment. One step is never that hard, and that's all we have to do, one after another.

 

[HBS60]

Molinaseca to Camponayara, 10.9 miles 17.5 Km

Much easier day today, as I decided to walk less after yesterday’s tough day. The path leaving Molinaseca was a sidewalk bordering the highway, and the official Camino veers off eventually to a gravel path, but I had the option of continuing on the sidewalk along the paved road, either route would take me to Ponferrada. Of course, I chose the paved road, much to the relief of my feet. I refused to step on another rock.

I walked past some nice neighborhoods, and eventually I got to Ponferrada, just 7 Km away from Molinaseca. I found a place for breakfast, and then I figured I would visit the Knights Templar Castle. It was truly gorgeous, and I thought of taking a tour, but a sign said it would be 60-90 minutes, so I moved on.

As I walked away from the castle into the old section of the city, I heard someone calling out my name. I turned around and it was Virginia, the lady from yesterday, who helped me when I got in trouble with the rocks yesterday. We hugged and she kept me company as we walked through some nice sections of the city. She stayed at the same town as I did last night, and told me she stopped at my albergue to check on me to see how I was doing. I think I was out eating but the Hospitalero (that’s the albergue attendant) said I was fine.

We took a selfie together but eventually she went ahead as she was traveling to a town further than me. I continued my walk, all of it paved. It was a breezy, cool day with a hint of rain that fortunately never materialized.

I got to my Albergue early afternoon, plenty of time to unwind. Jim from Australia happened to come in later, and a Canadian from New Brunswick came in later as well. We spent a lot of time chatting at the tables downstairs, enjoying a pleasant afternoon.

I had a chicken Paella for dinner, as I wanted some variety from the standard pilgrim fare. All in all, it was a pleasant, uneventful day that I needed.

I’ll walk further tomorrow, to Trabadelo, as I sense my time to finish the Camino is running out. I changed my plane ticket to the 26th, but still haven’t been able to change my train ticket from Santiago to Madrid to the 25th, but I have time to solve this in the next few days.

My Camino is winding down, but there are still challenges ahead. I think back about previous towns, and it feels like a lifetime ago. But im not done. There’s still more walking to do…
FB link for Pics:

Facebook Link

 

[RJE]

Be well my friend. I’ve surged ahead of you to Villafranca Del Bierzo, and with your changed flight, it’s unlikely we cross paths again. It was a pleasure to meet.

I enjoy your posts so much. From helpful insight into what was to come, to now a nice reminder of what I passed.

Buen Camino.

 

[HBS60]

Th

Be well my friend. I’ve surged ahead of you to Villafranca Del Bierzo, and with your changed flight, it’s unlikely we cross paths again. It was a pleasure to meet.

I enjoy your posts so much. From helpful insight into what was to come, to now a nice reminder of what I passed.

Buen Camino.

Thank you so much for the opportunity to meet in person! I enjoyed the brief connection we had, May your travels be successful, and your Camino be a memorable one. Buen Camino!

 

[Camo]

They're really beautiful maps, and as the name implies, open sourced.

Very nice indeed and google earth can also give a "visual" of this area - the blue line is the Camino on the road but you can see the track beside it

 

[Camo]

Of course, I chose the paved road, much to the relief of my feet. I refused to step on another rock.

Yes the start of the "Rocky Road" on the left kinda fools you (pano) as it looks paved to start but follow it for 100 meters and it "turns to stone".

Seems you went an additional 400 m before turning back to take the red footpath so I subtracted 1.3 km from your path before arriving at a rate of 71% of google person for the day, so you have established your own "happy rate" of 70 to 75% as you get closer and closer to your destination

 

[JillGat]

OSMand with the optional contour lines. A godsend, because it gives a good idea od what's ahead, unlike profiles, which can be misleading. But it's only available on the paid version.
They're really beautiful maps, and as the name implies, open sourced. A screenshot, the wider yellow line is the camino:
View attachment 177592


And not to get pyched out by how hard they look, might be, or are in the moment. One step is never that hard, and that's all we have to do, one after another.

I was joking about topo maps, because I always used to carry large, paper versions when backpacking. We didn't have cell phones then. I kinda miss those maps.

 

[Camo]

I knew this was the place. I entered the labyrinth, followed the path to the center, where there was a pile of rocks, so I dropped mine, and I retraced my steps back to exit

So essentially you used the "turn the other cheek" strategy, which I too have used for over 60 years in similar situations - so now a few days after can you already say it worked or have you "boxed it" for determination in the full light of a completed Camino?

 

[HBS60]

Camponayara to Trabadelo 15.2 miles 24.46 Km

A very nice day for a walk, cool temperatures, a gentle breeze and sunny skies. I found an open bar just a few meters from my albergue, so I was able to “fill the tank” so to speak. After several minutes of walking, I saw an albergue sign saying Santiago was 200 Km away, it official but it was good to see that number. Then I got to see another great sunrise. The paved road led to a gravel path which I didn’t mind as it was smooth and easy.

The path led through a pleasant forestry area, and soon I was in Cacabelos, where I took a few pics of interesting and sonewuirky things like an Egyptian style mural.

Eventually, the road started to climb, leading me through beautiful but steep hills. I could tell I was in a different region, either lush forest like areas along either farmland. It was very silent other than the rustling of the leaves by the wind.

After a steep climb and subsequent descent (thankfully over paved road) I got to Villafranca del Bierzo, where I had lunch. I would have liked to linger, but I still had about 10 more kilometers to go. Most of it was along a highway, but the trail was well protected by a concrete barrier. I passed through Pereje but there was no life there that I could see.

Finally I arrived at Trabadelo, where I’ll spend the night. Tomorrow I could go to O Cebreiro, which is known for a very difficult climb, but I’ll stop short at La Faba, about a third of the way up the mountain, so I can tackle the rest when I’m fresh in the morning.

I’m trying to figure out the best way to distribute the distances, I guess I’ll have to decide day by day.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/TV4SoZAwtuSgFitB/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[J Willhaus]

Camponayara to Trabadelo 15.2 miles 24.46 Km

A very nice day for a walk, cool temperatures, a gentle breeze and sunny skies. I found an open bar just a few meters from my albergue, so I was able to “fill the tank” so to speak. After several minutes of walking, I saw an albergue sign saying Santiago was 200 Km away, it official but it was good to see that number. Then I got to see another great sunrise. The paved road led to a gravel path which I didn’t mind as it was smooth and easy.

The path led through a pleasant forestry area, and soon I was in Cacabelos, where I took a few pics of interesting and sonewuirky things like an Egyptian style mural.

Eventually, the road started to climb, leading me through beautiful but steep hills. I could tell I was in a different region, either lush forest like areas along either farmland. It was very silent other than the rustling of the leaves by the wind.

After a steep climb and subsequent descent (thankfully over paved road) I got to Villafranca del Bierzo, where I had lunch. I would have liked to linger, but I still had about 10 more kilometers to go. Most of it was along a highway, but the trail was well protected by a concrete barrier. I passed through Pereje but there was no life there that I could see.

Finally I arrived at Trabadelo, where I’ll spend the night. Tomorrow I could go to O Cebreiro, which is known for a very difficult climb, but I’ll stop short at La Faba, about a third of the way up the mountain, so I can tackle the rest when I’m fresh in the morning.

I’m trying to figure out the best way to distribute the distances, I guess I’ll have to decide day by day.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/TV4SoZAwtuSgFitB/?mibextid=WC7FNe

La Faba is nice and so is the next little town, Laguna de Castilla. The steepest part is really up to La Faba.

 

[CWBuff]

It does go down from CdF to Manjarín, but then it goes up and up until reaching Alto de Cerezales, which is actually the highest point of the Camino Francés, not the CdF. After Alto de Cerezales it goes down to El Acebo. I’m attaching a screen shot of the Wise Pilgrim app profile for that section.

Well... I cannot argue the height of Alto Cerezales vs where Cruz de Ferro (FindPenguins clocked CdF at 4,921 ft = 1500m) is but I also do not recall going up once I left Cruz de Ferro. Seemed like in no time I was at the food truck at Manjarin and then passed Tomas' Place and yup downhill all the way to Molinaseca. If there was indeed a paltry 90m hick-up up I didn't obviously paid it no mind sufficient to recognize "a climb"...

here is a video I took - as per my habit I usually start pointing to "where I just came from" and finishing by showing "where I am going to" Descending after CdF clearly going down

I have no memory of almost any of this "rockiness" that Hector describes. I remember a couple of short, dodgy, downhill rocky stretches, but that's about it. I enjoy my selective memory. I DID suffer up the hill from SJPdP and the climb to O'Cebreiro. But felt such a sense of accomplishment! I found most of the other hills to be easier if I was singing.
I say send that CPaP and other heavy stuff ahead with luggage transport. I wish your walk were more enjoyable and less grueling!

LOL Oh its there all right!!!!

Descending to El Acebo Descending to Molinaseca

 

[dougfitz]

Seemed like in no time I was at the food truck at Manjarin and then passed Tomas' Place and yup downhill all the way to Molinaseca. If there was indeed a paltry 90m hick-up up I didn't obviously paid it no mind sufficient to recognize "a climb"...

I looked at some tracks from IGN for this section, and they don't support your recollection of it being 'downhill all the way to Molinaseca'. Manjarin is near the bottom of a saddle between Cruz de Ferro and where the road goes around a crest some 5.5 km further on. The slopes in that section aren't all that great. It gets much steeper after that on the approach into El Acebo and then into Molinaseca. Then there is one further short section of climb before Molinaseca, although I recall it feeling like the track had just levelled out there, rather than being a significant climb.

 

[HBS60]

Rant alert (with my apologies).

Mods may move this post to a different place if deemed appropriate

Re: Trainline

I purchased a ticket on Trainline from SDC to MAD for Monday Sept 23 as my flight home was the next day. I made sure the ticket was changeable. Since I changed my flight for two days later, I had to change my train ride to the 25th, but when I tried to do the change in the Trainline app, it would nñtell me it was not eligible for change even though the ticket description said it was changeable as I intended.

I emailed Trainline customer support, the agent acknowledged the problem, said that I could change it with a fare difference of $25 and said I had to call back, so I did. The agent that got a call was different, said I had to pay $90 more in addition to the $75 I paid originally. I questioned this and he said he would call me back. The call went to voicemail, so of course when I called back, I got yet another agent, I had to explain the whole thing again, and he said for some reason he couldn’t do the change but would call me back. I requested that he email me his direct line, as I didn’t want to go through the whole process again, but he emailed me the general number.
I’m glad I’m doing this two weeks ahead, not a day or two ahead.

I finally decided to try purchasing a new ticket on my own and requesting a refund on the other one, and it seems to have worked. The Trainline agents were useless, seemingly reading from a script.

Not sure why the glitch in the app, but their customer service needs improvement.

Rant over

 

[CWBuff]

I looked at some tracks from IGN for this section, and they don't support your recollection of it being 'downhill all the way to Molinaseca'. Manjarin is near the bottom of a saddle between Cruz de Ferro and where the road goes around a crest some 5.5 km further on. The slopes in that section aren't all that great. It gets much steeper after that on the approach into El Acebo and then into Molinaseca. Then there is one further short section of climb before Molinaseca, although I recall it feeling like the track had just levelled out there, rather than being a significant climb.

Well, Sir, what can I say.... my recollection is just that.... so if I'm wrong- mea culpa....

 

[Camo]

Camponayara to Trabadelo 15.2 miles 24.46 Km

still at 71% rate so going well

 

[Camo]

If there was indeed a paltry 90m hick-up up I didn't obviously paid it no mind sufficient to recognize "a climb".

It seems google agrees with you and while both these (green arrow) climbs of 90 m or so might be hefty under "normal circumstances" they are but a pimple on a pumpkin in the context of this massive drop. Here is my walk 23 profile

 

[JabbaPapa]

I also do not recall going up once I left Cruz de Ferro

There's some mild up and down so it's non-obvious in the "proper" direction, but if you're going in the "opposite" one there's a much clearer sense of reaching that high point then descending to the level of the Cruz de Ferro.

 

[dougfitz]

Well, Sir, what can I say.... my recollection is just that.... so if I'm wrong- mea culpa....

I regularly get reminded that my memory is a very fallible thing.

 

[JillGat]

Well... I cannot argue the height of Alto Cerezales vs where Cruz de Ferro (FindPenguins clocked CdF at 4,921 ft = 1500m) is but I also do not recall going up once I left Cruz de Ferro. Seemed like in no time I was at the food truck at Manjarin and then passed Tomas' Place and yup downhill all the way to Molinaseca. If there was indeed a paltry 90m hick-up up I didn't obviously paid it no mind sufficient to recognize "a climb"...

here is a video I took - as per my habit I usually start pointing to "where I just came from" and finishing by showing "where I am going to" Descending after CdF clearly going down


LOL Oh its there all right!!!!

Descending to El Acebo Descending to Molinaseca

This obsession with the dreaded hills on the Camino makes me want to recommend that next time, you take the bus or a car instead of walk.

 

[RJE]

Rant alert (with my apologies).

Mods may move this post to a different place if deemed appropriate

Re: Trainline

I purchased a ticket on Trainline from SDC to MAD for Monday Sept 23 as my flight home was the next day. I made sure the ticket was changeable. Since I changed my flight for two days later, I had to change my train ride to the 25th, but when I tried to do the change in the Trainline app, it would nñtell me it was not eligible for change even though the ticket description said it was changeable as I intended.

I emailed Trainline customer support, the agent acknowledged the problem, said that I could change it with a fare difference of $25 and said I had to call back, so I did. The agent that got a call was different, said I had to pay $90 more in addition to the $75 I paid originally. I questioned this and he said he would call me back. The call went to voicemail, so of course when I called back, I got yet another agent, I had to explain the whole thing again, and he said for some reason he couldn’t do the change but would call me back. I requested that he email me his direct line, as I didn’t want to go through the whole process again, but he emailed me the general number.
I’m glad I’m doing this two weeks ahead, not a day or two ahead.

I finally decided to try purchasing a new ticket on my own and requesting a refund on the other one, and it seems to have worked. The Trainline agents were useless, seemingly reading from a script.

Not sure why the glitch in the app, but their customer service needs improvement.

Rant over

I dealt with the same. Couldn’t simply change the date of the trip in the app. I ended up calling and it was a fiasco. You ended up doing the best thing - cancel original in the app, get a refund, and book a new ticket.

I learned “changeable” really means “refundable”. Not great customer service.

By the way, hike up to O Cebreiro wasn’t that bad. I think you’ll find it easier than the steep descents on rocks. At least I did.

 

[CWBuff]

I regularly get reminded that my memory is a very fallible thing.

I know how you feel. Sort of "of all the thing I've lost I miss my mind the most"

 

[VNwalking]

I kinda miss those maps

Me too. But we can still remember how to navigate without GPS, right? All is not lost!

I’ll stop short at La Faba, about a third of the way up the mountain, so I can tackle the rest when I’m fresh in the morning.

Good move, very wise. And La Faba is such a pleasant low-key place. Compared to the small ups and downs of the last day or so, the climb to La Faba is much more substantial. And then just steady but not too bad up to O Cebreiro. (YMMV. I think our respective perceptions of 'steep' are quite different. )

their customer service needs improvement.

Grf. Sounds like a real run around...

 

[Camo]

This obsession with the dreaded hills on the Camino makes me want to recommend that next time, you take the bus or a car instead of walk.

The image that really grabbed me was the 8 or so year old in the pano below (made to a Windows Background).



The family has walked the extra 200 meters (Brierley p211) to the 1535 m cairn he mentions and dad is doing a "secondary deposit" of his burdens on the cairn (at 180 deg looking east) and mum is taking the pano. But this little girl with backpack almost bigger than herself is only interested in gazing to the WEST where she is bound. Seems she has no burdens to shed.

My Background for the whole week

 

[HBS60]

This obsession with the dreaded hills on the Camino makes me want to recommend that next time, you take the bus or a car instead of walk.

Obsession?
Being that we all have different abilities, I believe it’s a good idea to be as well informed as possible. Problem is that the information can be very subjective and misleading. Portraying the Camino as a stroll in the park might be a reflection of one persons experience but not that of others.

I struggle with hills, others don’t. I struggle with rocks, others just breeze by like gazelles, leaving me behind with a cheerful “buen camino”. Just because a person finds it easy doesn’t mean that others will.

Heading into a journey like this naively thinking it’s just a stroll can be a recipe for disaster. I’ve already witnessed two close calls in people that were in much better shape than me. As much as I tried to prepare and be informed, I’ve found unexpected challenges that I try my best to meet, and I believe it’s ok for me to share my experience.

So no, I don’t think being cautious or well informed an obsession.