Portuguese Central or Coastal

[PAK]

Starting to plan for a Portuguese Camino in September 24 from Porto and cannot decide whether to walk the central or coastal. I'd appreciate comments and suggestions from fellow pilgrims that have walked either. Really interested in understanding the level of support ie accommodation options, places of interest. Thank you.

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hola, @PAK I have not walked either camino but like you I have plans for Sept this year. My research is leading me to walking the coastal route, at least as far as the Spanish boarder. Based on fewer hills and the coastal scenery. Just a preference. From there I will make up my mind. Cheers

 

[kenwilltravel]

Starting to plan for a Portuguese Camino in September 24 from Porto and cannot decide whether to walk the central or coastal. I'd appreciate comments and suggestions from fellow pilgrims that have walked either. Really interested in understanding the level of support ie accommodation options, places of interest. Thank you.

This is a complicated question and you're going to get a lot of opinions on each side. Having walked the coastal twice and part of the Central once (Porto to Ponte de Lima), I can offer a few general comments:
1) From a pure walking point of view, the coastal is much easier, hands down. On the coast it's mostly flat while you do get some elevations on the Central. Also, some of the road walking is a bit hairy on the Central, from Porto up to about Mindelo.
2) In terms of historical towns, Central definitely has the edge, with Barcelos, Ponte de Lima and Valença. Ponte de Lima earns my vote for most charming town in northern Portugal; we spent several days there to enjoy some local festivals. There's also the 12th century D. Zameiro bridge over the Rio Ave just south of Vila d'Arcos. Of course, you can find some interesting things on the Coastal as well, like the Celtic excavation site near A Guarda and the replica of Columbus' ship Pinta in Baiona harbour (you'll be amazed at how small it was). I also like the older waterfront parts of Vila do Conde and Viana do Costello; very scenic.
3) In terms of natural scenery, it's a bit of a toss-up. Do you prefer ocean or mountain views? Beach boardwalks or forested trails? This is purely a personal preference thing. My wife emphatically prefers the coast and I'm okay with either.
4) "Pilgrim ambience." I put that in quotes because it's kind of hard to pin down. But basically I mean that sense of being on a medieval-like pilgrimage, or quest. You might argue that the coastal is a bit weak in that because, frankly, you're walking through so many modern beach resort towns, particularly on the Portuguese side of the Minho. On the Central, we found we tended to bond more with fellow travelers, there was just more, well, pilgrim spirit. This is such an intangible thing that I don't want to make too much of it but there it is.
5) Accommodations are good on both, probably a bit more on the coastal because of all the beach resorts along the way but not a make-or-break issue.

 

[Corned Beef]

Good summary from @kenwilltravel.

The coast is great for those like me that appreciate the sea views but there is not much more than that after you leave the Greater Porto area. Viana do Castelo is a worthwhile stop but cannot recall anything noteworthy after that.

 

[dugavski]

I did a combination of Coastal, Central and Variante espiritual.
The first day I started from the Porto cathedral, along the river to the ocean.
Then nice walk to Villa Cha.
Next day I joined Central from Vila do Conde to Rates.
After Pontevedra i took the Variante Espiritual.

This route combines the best of all variants and I would (and will) do it again.

 

[David Tallan]

I don't think I can beat Ken's summary of the differences. But I will chime in along the lines of dugavski above and say that it is possible to construct a mix. Many find that they prefer the walk out of Porto on the Senda Litoral along the river to the ocean and north along the seashore on the boardwalks, meeting the Coastal route by Vila do Conde. At that point you can switch over to the Central at Arcos or Rates or keep walking along the Coastal (or Senda Litoral). If you want to stick with the Coastal, you can also switch over at Caminha and head to Valença/Tui. Or, if you've been walking along the Central, you can switch to the Coastal from Valença/Tui. to Caminha and get a taste of the Coastal in Spain. Whatever suits your fancy.

 

[auburnfive]

We are doing something similar to what David has suggested, taking in the historic towns of Barcelos, Ponte de Lima and Valenca, and then walking along the Minho to the Spanish coast, to A Guarda, Oia, Baiona, then through the Variante at Pontevedra. Having done both coastal and central previously, this seems the best of both worlds.

 

[NicoO]

I followed some youtubers and from what i saw a switch from route to route seems to be rather easy (f.e. using public transport or walking over to one or the other.) . so you can walk both for a bit and than just keep on the route that you prefer. I am planing a mix: Coastal till Vila do Conde and then I'll move on to the central.

 

[Anthony Rocco]

Starting to plan for a Portuguese Camino in September 24 from Porto and cannot decide whether to walk the central or coastal. I'd appreciate comments and suggestions from fellow pilgrims that have walked either. Really interested in understanding the level of support ie accommodation options, places of interest. Thank you.

We started on the central and were so miserable after the first two days (it's a seemingly endless walk out of Porto on pavement) that we switched to the coastal. It was lovely. Because there were places on the central we absolutely wanted to visit, we switched back. But would then go back to the coastal. We ended up with a zigzag route and we felt like we got the best of both.

We truly loved our time in Valenca/Tui. We recommend staying in Valenca. The walled city is a jewel and it's cheaper. Hey...you're in Portugal. But Tui is so close, just over the bridge, and truly worth visiting.

We then had one of our most delightful days walking along the Minho River to the coast and the lovely city of A Guarda. We were the only peregrin(h)os. Whether on the coastal or central, it can get crowded, so it was nice to have a day to take in all the joys of the walking along a river without interruptions.

 

[Liddy]

I did a combination of Coastal, Central and Variante espiritual.
The first day I started from the Porto cathedral, along the river to the ocean.
Then nice walk to Villa Cha.
Next day I joined Central from Vila do Conde to Rates.
After Pontevedra i took the Variante Espiritual.

This route combines the best of all variants and I would (and will) do it again.

Sounds like a great combination. Do you recall the distance and how many days to complete?

 

[MarianneF]

Starting to plan for a Portuguese Camino in September 24 from Porto and cannot decide whether to walk the central or coastal. I'd appreciate comments and suggestions from fellow pilgrims that have walked either. Really interested in understanding the level of support ie accommodation options, places of interest. Thank you.

The choice is yours. I have only done the Central route veering off onto the Spiritual route (a must do). You are spoilt for choice as far as albergues go along this route. It was beautiful all along the route. If you are looking for less up and down walking the coastal route is the one. However you may have to deal with coastal wind and limited choice in accommodation. I am however planning to do the coastal next year. Enjoy your planning and do not follow the overnight stops as suggested by camino guides.

 

[jungleboy]

We were the only peregrin(h)os.

FYI, it’s still peregrinos (or peregrinas for an all-female group) in Portuguese, the same as in Castilian Spanish and Galego (i.e. peregrinhos is not a word).

 

[dugavski]

Sounds like a great combination. Do you recall the distance and how many days to complete?

300 kilometers, 12 days of walking

 

[worthober]

I did a combination of Coastal, Central and Variante espiritual.
The first day I started from the Porto cathedral, along the river to the ocean.
Then nice walk to Villa Cha.
Next day I joined Central from Vila do Conde to Rates.
After Pontevedra i took the Variante Espiritual.

This route combines the best of all variants and I would (and will) do it again.

Did you do this with a group or map your own path? Could you share your cities/stop? Thank you!!

 

[JabbaPapa]

I've walked the Central between Fátima/Tomar and Porto airport & from Redondela onwards, plus the Coastal between those points.

I'd say that for anyone with knee or other health problems, take the Coastal.

People wanting more "authenticity", maybe the Central ? And the Coastal is more expensive.

Otherwise I dunno, outside some hard personal needs, it really does just boil down to personal taste IMO, and de gustibus non est discutandum.

 

[dugavski]

Did you do this with a group or map your own path? Could you share your cities/stop? Thank you!!

This was my path:

1. Porto
2. Vila Chã
3. Rates
4. Barcelos
5. Ponte de Lima
6. Rubiães
7. Tui
8. Redondela
9. Pontevedra
10. A Armenteira
11. Vilanova de Arousa (boat to Pontecesures)
12. O Areal
13. Santiago de Compostela

​

 

[Ereyes13]

This was my path:

1. Porto
2. Vila Chã
3. Rates
4. Barcelos
5. Ponte de Lima
6. Rubiães
7. Tui
8. Redondela
9. Pontevedra
10. A Armenteira
11. Vilanova de Arousa (boat to Pontecesures)
12. O Areal
13. Santiago de Compostela

​

Hi, did you make reservations for either Albergues or private room during your Camino? I am also planning my first Camino this Sept and am worried about finding a place to stay the night without prior reservations. Thank you Buen Camino

 

[dugavski]

I made reservations for first two nights in Porto and for all places after Tui.

 

[Drewcaplan]

I did a combination of Coastal, Central and Variante espiritual.
The first day I started from the Porto cathedral, along the river to the ocean.
Then nice walk to Villa Cha.
Next day I joined Central from Vila do Conde to Rates.
After Pontevedra i took the Variante Espiritual.

This route combines the best of all variants and I would (and will) do it again.

This looks like a great approach. A couple of questions...

This was my path:

1. Porto
2. Vila Chã
3. Rates
4. Barcelos
5. Ponte de Lima
6. Rubiães
7. Tui
8. Redondela
9. Pontevedra
10. A Armenteira
11. Vilanova de Arousa (boat to Pontecesures)
12. O Areal
13. Santiago de Compostela

​

Great approach. A couple questions... The path from Vila Chã to Rates is not on any official Camino. How did you walk this? Just walked the roads as found in Google maps or the like? Same thing for Rates to Barcellos? I'm also considering kicking back to the coast by veering from Tui out to A Guarda and then up through Vigo to Redondela. Has anybody experienced walking from Tui to A Guarda? Thanks!

 

[Anthony Rocco]

Starting to plan for a Portuguese Camino in September 24 from Porto and cannot decide whether to walk the central or coastal. I'd appreciate comments and suggestions from fellow pilgrims that have walked either. Really interested in understanding the level of support ie accommodation options, places of interest. Thank you.

We found zigzagging between them the best. Start with the coastal, then up to Barcelos. Stay in lovely Valenca, hopping over the bridge for an hour or so to see Tui. Then walk the beautiful and peaceful trail along the Minho River to A Guarda. Coastal all the way to Pontevedra. Variante Spiritual to Padron, then to Santiago. If you get one shot at this Camino, this is THE one.

 

[David Tallan]

This looks like a great approach. A couple of questions...

Great approach. A couple questions... The path from Vila Chã to Rates is not on any official Camino. How did you walk this? Just walked the roads as found in Google maps or the like? Same thing for Rates to Barcellos? I'm also considering kicking back to the coast by veering from Tui out to A Guarda and then up through Vigo to Redondela. Has anybody experienced walking from Tui to A Guarda? Thanks!

When I walked from Vila Chã to Rates the route I took was Vila Chã to Vila do Conde to Arcos to Rates. The route from Vila do Conde to Rates was well marked, and I had a GPS track to follow (which I didn't really need). I'm told there is a also a different route, along the aqueduct from Vila do Conde to Rates, which is in some of the Camino apps.

 

[dugavski]

This looks like a great approach. A couple of questions...

Great approach. A couple questions... The path from Vila Chã to Rates is not on any official Camino. How did you walk this? Just walked the roads as found in Google maps or the like? Same thing for Rates to Barcellos? I'm also considering kicking back to the coast by veering from Tui out to A Guarda and then up through Vigo to Redondela. Has anybody experienced walking from Tui to A Guarda? Thanks!

Lady from the tourist office in Vila Cha told me to follow the river path, but I got lost somehow... then I saw an aquaeduct and followed it - the path is well marked all the way to Rates and Barcellos.

 

[Drewcaplan]

When I walked from Vila Chã to Rates the route I took was Vila Chã to Vila do Conde to Arcos to Rates. The route from Vila do Conde to Rates was well marked, and I had a GPS track to follow (which I didn't really need). I'm told there is a also a different route, along the aqueduct from Vila do Conde to Rates, which is in some of the Camino apps.

Thank you for the reply. I have found a trail in Trailsmart. A very capable if a bit bewildering app...

 

[David Tallan]

Thank you for the reply. I have found a trail in Trailsmart. A very capable if a bit bewildering app...

That was what I used for this particular section back in 2018.

 

[Drewcaplan]

That was what I used for this particular section back in 2018.

Now that I have you, I have another question! My current plan kicks back out to the coast from Tui; rather than going straight north to Redondela, I’m veering back down along the Minho river and going up along the coast through Vigo. This adds about 50 miles, which is fine if worth it. I am also including the Spiritual path further north. Any thoughts on whether each of these two is a “must?” Thanks!

 

[David Tallan]

Now that I have you, I have another question! My current plan kicks back out to the coast from Tui; rather than going straight north to Redondela, I’m veering back down along the Minho river and going up along the coast through Vigo. This adds about 50 miles, which is fine if worth it. I am also including the Spiritual path further north. Any thoughts on whether each of these two is a “must?” Thanks!

I haven't done any of the coast after Vila do Conde myself, but I have heard people recommend this and it is something I was considering for a future Camino Portugues. It gives you about half and half, Coastal and Central and some people say that the Spanish parts are some of the nicest parts of the Coastal. And just about everyone who has done the Spiritual Variant seems to rave about how wonderful it is.

 

[Drewcaplan]

Choices!

 

[tcmiller3]

I haven't done any of the coast after Vila do Conde myself, but I have heard people recommend this and it is something I was considering for a future Camino Portugues. It gives you about half and half, Coastal and Central and some people say that the Spanish parts are some of the nicest parts of the Coastal. And just about everyone who has done the Spiritual Variant seems to rave about how wonderful it is.

David, It has been almost 10 years since my last Camino but if I can get these 82 YO bones going I am planning another Camino in 2025. I am leaning towards a Portuguese Camino, starting in Lisbon. Maybe the central route. I can do more but I would like to plan on 20 to 25 km days. At a glance it seems that most of the plans are for longer days. Will I have any problems finding food and lodging? If anyone has a sample itinerary I would appreciate it. Best regard, Tom

 

[David Tallan]

You shouldn't have any problems with food, lodging, and days of that length after Porto. Before Porto, I leave it to others with direct experience to answerm