Preparing to sleep rough?

[Seabeggar]

We are a couple due to walk from SJDP in mid September. Not keen to book (unsure about daily walk distance & like freedom) Posts also suggest bottlenecks already fully booked. Keen to avoid bed race. I see posts suggesting this relaxed approach will result in some night's with no bed & necessitate rough sleeping. Is discrete rough sleeping acceptable outside big towns if beds are all full? We are wondering about carrying bivvy bags (not tent) sleeping bag & mat to give more options.

 

[dreaming]

I walked CF late September last year and just booked SJPP, Roncesvalles and Santiago. I had no problem getting a bed.

 

[trecile]

Posts also suggest bottlenecks already fully booked.

What posts suggest that places are already fully booked? September is a busy month for starting from SJPdP - especially the first two weeks, so it's good that you are going mid month. There should really be no reason that you will have to sleep "rough" unless you prefer it.

There are municipal and albergues that don't take reservations, and are first come, first served. Bookable places may show as being fully booked on sites like booking.com, but that's only for the rooms/beds that the properties have released to the booking sites. They usually hold back rooms/beds to book directly through their own websites, email, or phone.

However, I would personally book my first few days, until I got the "lay of the land," and knew how far I am able/like to walk daily. The pilgrim traffic tends to spread out after Pamplona, and there are more intermediate towns to stay in.

Look at the stages on Gronze.com and do not always stop in the towns that they show as end stages. Use Gronze to get a feel for how many beds are available in each town you are passing through, and plan your stops accordingly.

 

[J Willhaus]

Not having reservations is a source of extreme stress for some people. If it doesn't worry you, then just walk your walk. A few forum members intentionally camp from time to time such as @good_old_shoes and bring a tent. As a hospitalera, I have seen more than one tent, shelter, etc abandoned in the "give away" box by the time pilgrims reach Estella. I don't usually make reservations, have never carried a bivy or tent, and always found a bed. That is not every person's experience though.

Some people want specific types of accommodations and for those people it is probably a good idea to make a reservation. If you are fine with a bunk bed and maybe a top bunk or a mat on the floor, you'll probably be fine. Many small communities may open up a gymnasium as overflow, etc. If you plan to walk to Roncesvalles in one day, I recommend you may want a reservation. It is a long first day and many people are sad to arrive and find the big albergue full. They do hold some beds for walk ins, but those could fill and do during busy times.

 

[domigee]

We are a couple due to walk from SJDP in mid September. Not keen to book (unsure about daily walk distance & like freedom) Posts also suggest bottlenecks already fully booked. Keen to avoid bed race. I see posts suggesting this relaxed approach will result in some night's with no bed & necessitate rough sleeping. Is discrete rough sleeping acceptable outside big towns if beds are all full? We are wondering about carrying bivvy bags (not tent) sleeping bag & mat to give more options.

I would only book ahead in St Jean pde Port for the 1st night, Roncesvalles if you intend to stay there and also Santiago a few days before you arrive.
Should you choose to stay in Orrisson or Borda albergues on the way to Roncesvalles, these also need to be booked ahead.
I can’t think of anywhere else. Maybe the Trasgu hostal in Foncebadon gets very booked up ahead too but there are many other options.
Unless you have very specific requirements ie private rooms with ensuite bathroom for ex., you should have no need to sleep under a church porch

 

[trecile]

Should you choose to stay in Orrisson or Borda albergues on the way to Roncesvalles, these also need to be booked ahead.

Unfortunately, there's not much chance that either has vacancies this September.

 

[henrythedog]

The OP (swimming against the tide) doesn’t seem to be looking for a private room. After Pamplona all will be well. Busy, but well.

Most of the suggestions that ‘there are no beds left’ actually mean there are no private rooms with their own bathroom showing as available on booking.com. The two things are very different.

 

[Robo]

The OP (swimming against the tide) doesn’t seem to be looking for a private room. After Pamplona all will be well. Busy, but well.

Most of the suggestions that ‘there are no beds left’ actually mean there are no private rooms with their own bathroom showing as available on booking.com. The two things are very different.

Very true!

I spent a few days on the Frances last May. It was crazy busy!
No problem getting Albergue beds.

(I would always book pre-Pamplona though)

 

[roving_rufus]

I walked part of the CF in May/June - the only place I had issues was in Portomarin - though there were still beds in the 150 bed mega 'dungeon' albergue- Sarria onwards can cause issues especially if you start from Sarria on a Sunday or Monday as these are popular for alot of bigger groups and tours. But after Portomarin I stayed off the main stages and generally had no real issue finding an albergue bed.

I would say there are a few other bottle neck spots that can be problematic- Hornillos is one after leaving Burgos as its a perfect 20km walk from city while Hontanas is 31km too far for many. Mansilla de las Mulas is 20km before Leon but the municipal has opened a temporary albergue though the 2 private albergues can get busy. Even Foncebadon can get busy - though Rabanal a few kilometres before generally has beds. These might be spots worth booking a bed a night or two in advance if you are planning to stay there.

But I would listen to advice for SJPDP to Pamplona above.

 

[Bradypus]

Mansilla de las Mulas is 20km before Leon but the municipal is shut and the 2 private albergues can get busy.

The municipal albergue in Mansilla de las Mulas has now reopened.

 

[roving_rufus]

The municipal albergue in Mansilla de las Mulas has now reopened.

Will edit above! And good news to see!

 

[jefferyonthecamino]

We are a couple due to walk from SJDP in mid September. Not keen to book (unsure about daily walk distance & like freedom) Posts also suggest bottlenecks already fully booked. Keen to avoid bed race. I see posts suggesting this relaxed approach will result in some night's with no bed & necessitate rough sleeping. Is discrete rough sleeping acceptable outside big towns if beds are all full? We are wondering about carrying bivvy bags (not tent) sleeping bag & mat to give more options.

not really, and illegal in many places, although locals and cops may ignore you. that said, it really isn't a great idea to promote roughing it across spain as it is not fair for the locals. imagine what the camino would look and feel like if half a million pilgrims slept and did their stuff wherever they wanted along the trail.

 

[roving_rufus]

Knowing some of the local mountain rescue folks at home I never go for a hike without a emergency bivvy. I have slept in it (planned!) including on a pilgrim route in France but it is mainly for emergency. I have used it twice for others (not on camino) - one guy who slipped and fell breaking his arm and was in shock so bivvy was useful to keep him warm until help arrived (this was on a low level path close to a road). The 2nd time was actually at a road traffic accident.

I certainly wouldn't leave it out of my pack for the cost of 100g.

 

[dick bird]

Not having reservations is a source of extreme stress for some people.

Actually, the most stressed people we saw in June this year were those who had made reservations and were struggling get to the places they´d reserved. If you are OK with public albergues (and if you are contemplating sleeping rough, you obviously are), then you should be fine. By the way, church porches are usually kept firmly locked at night.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

By the way, church porches are usually kept firmly locked at night.

I have walked by many small churches in villages where the porches only had an overhanging roof, but no enclosures to lock them. I did see two young men sleeping under one of them as I'd walked by on the Primitivo. Here they are a day later and had slept outdoors the following night.

 

[ScouseKeith]

We are a couple due to walk from SJDP in mid September. Not keen to book (unsure about daily walk distance & like freedom) Posts also suggest bottlenecks already fully booked. Keen to avoid bed race. I see posts suggesting this relaxed approach will result in some night's with no bed & necessitate rough sleeping. Is discrete rough sleeping acceptable outside big towns if beds are all full? We are wondering about carrying bivvy bags (not tent) sleeping bag & mat to give more options.

Hi Seabegger
Unfortunately I tried this until the third night when I was lifted by the police. The police banned camping and sleeping rough from SJPP to Pamplona due to the risk of being abducted in the Basque region. They kindly gave me a lift to the next albergue and explained why, so don’t be surprised if something happens to you. To be honest I’ve now completed 5 Caminos and I’ve never struggled to find a bed for the night even walking in cold without booking, if they are full just walk onto the next one. Keith

 

[JabbaPapa]

It's a complicated topic, but as I will be sleeping rough tonight (in France not Spain), I guess I should opine somewhat.

First, it's simply not possible without the kit, unless you are in your 20s or 30s or something ...

And second first, you need some kind of roof unless it's 0% chance of rain, and you need somewhere isolated and out of the way for everybody's protection including yours.

There is no one size fits all solution, there's just trial and error.

 

[Seabeggar]

Thanks Jabba, hope you slept well.

It's a complicated topic, but as I will be sleeping rough tonight (in France not Spain), I guess I should opine somewhat.

First, it's simply not possible without the kit, unless you are in your 20s or 30s or something ...

And second first, you need some kind of roof unless it's 0% chance of rain, and you need somewhere isolated and out of the way for everybody's protection including yours.

There is no one size fits all solution, there's just trial and error.

S

 

[JustOneGuy]

I'm just preparing for next year, and the question interests me, although in April I don't think the issue arises.

What I am wondering is whether it is socially acceptable to sleep on the street along a Camino.

Frankly, if I was living there, the idea of, maybe, dozens of "pilgrims" sleeping under church porches (and not washing themself, BTW), does not seem appealing to me, especially if the church/town is old and you are not a poor homeless but just someone traveling/having fun.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

What I am wondering is whether it is socially acceptable to sleep on the street along a Camino.

Socially acceptable ? In short, no

 

[JustOneGuy]

Socially acceptable ? In short, no

So what happens @Peterexpatkiwi, if you can't find a bed? What's a viable and socially acceptable alternative?

Let me note that booking in advance is not a solution, as someone else will not find a bed. The problem is the number of "pilgrim" vs. the number of beds available in each village/town.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Whilst it does not happen often it certainly does happen. For example if you have been unfortunate enough to have hit one of the famed bottle necks on a busy day. In which case you simply move on. If you're physically unable to, you seek assistance to call a taxi to go elsewhere - off Camino for example. Bars, restaurants, Albergues, police, a shop, even a random local will generally help you call a taxi should you not be able to find one.
You generally don't have to go far - 5 perhaps 10 kilometres - although there could always be exceptions. Then you taxi back the next day.

That would be my first preference. Failing which, yes I would wild camp - however not along the street as you are suggesting. (I doubt that would be socially acceptable where you live, it most certainly would not be here, or in Spain).
Wild camping (or if you prefer stealth camping) is by its nature not camping in plain sight but rather in hiding. The age old story - out of sight, out of mind.

This has come up many times on the forum, there are lots of hints elsewhere. Just as with many homeless people favorites are of course under Bridges, in abandoned buildings, in a park rotunda, if it's a dry night in a park between the bushes and the wall, on a Park bench, etc.
If you have zero Gear then you need some kind of roof as mentioned above. I've slept behind a commercial building, between the cardboard recycling bin and the wall - I pulled a bunch of the cardboard out, some was underneath me some over the top of me as a roof. Quite cozy actually.
I've even slept in an abandoned goat house ( yes I swept that out first!) You set up once it's gone dark and you leave as soon as it's light. As always: leaving no trace.

Please note I haven't done any of this on camino ( I'm getting older, I prefer my comfort) and this would be for me a last resort.

 

[ScouseKeith]

So what happens if you can't find a bed? What's a viable alternative?

On my 2017 Camino I didn’t arrive into my location until early evening and the 3 albergues were completely full. It was my own fault I thought I would make up time and distance combining two stages, so when I arrived there was nothing left. I couldn’t walk any further that day so I took a stroll around the town and found a small park I could rest in for the night. I found a little restaurant to eat and had a wash then retired to the park later and slept there. There was no one complaining or harassing me and I was up just after 5am and started walking again until I found a place for breakfast which wasn’t too far away and extremely welcoming. Keith

 

[JustOneGuy]

Whilst it does not happen often it certainly does happen. For example if you have been unfortunate enough to have hit one of the famed bottle necks on a busy day. In which case you simply move on. If you're physically unable to, you seek assistance to call a taxi to go elsewhere - off Camino for example. Bars, restaurants, Albergues, police, a shop, even a random local will generally help you call a taxi should you not be able to find one.
You generally don't have to go far - 5 perhaps 10 kilometres - although there could always be exceptions. Then you taxi back the next day.

Good suggestions, and thanks for sharing your experience.

I slept rough a few times when I was quite young and in the wilderness. Never in towns.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Yes the wilderness is in many respects easier, that said it's a lot easier to find a roof in town. Always go at least one block away from the Camino, preferably towards the outskirts of town. You're less likely to be bothered by anyone, or for that matter to bother them. Centrally located abandoned buildings are more likely to be used by the local homeless, drunks and teenagers. Also more likely to be over looked by neighbouring properties.
Unfortunately abandoned buildings within easy sight of the Camino - at least on the main routes- are often used by inconsiderate pilgrims as toilets.

Edited to add: incidentally using Google Maps on satellite view to scout potential places whilst you're sitting in town having a meal will make life a heck of a lot easier.

 

[Marbe2]

I would only book ahead in St Jean pde Port for the 1st night, Roncesvalles if you intend to stay there and also Santiago a few days before you arrive.
Should you choose to stay in Orrisson or Borda albergues on the way to Roncesvalles, these also need to be booked ahead.
I can’t think of anywhere else. Maybe the Trasgu hostal in Foncebadon gets very booked up ahead too but there are many other options.
Unless you have very specific requirements ie private rooms with ensuite bathroom for ex., you should have no need to sleep under a church porch

I would monitor these area as well: Rabanal del Camino to Molineseca, Villafranca to OCebreiro, and Sarria to SdC. There are times in Oct. when even the towns in between are Full! The National Day of Spain is October 12th this year and many will have a three day weekend. If you are in these areas at that time check ahead for availability.

 

[J Willhaus]

There is almost always a place to stay. It may not be exactly where you want. You may have to go forward or back or even off the Camino. It may be on the floor in a sports hall or in a school or church. The locals will do their best to accommodate rather than have you sleeping in their streets. Ask for help if you don't find a place at the bar or the police station. A pilgrimage is hard work, and it is also about faith.

 

[NYSE]

We are a couple due to walk from SJDP in mid September. Not keen to book (unsure about daily walk distance & like freedom) Posts also suggest bottlenecks already fully booked. Keen to avoid bed race. I see posts suggesting this relaxed approach will result in some night's with no bed & necessitate rough sleeping. Is discrete rough sleeping acceptable outside big towns if beds are all full? We are wondering about carrying bivvy bags (not tent) sleeping bag & mat to give more options.

I always tried to end my walk by 2pm. This is the time most albergues open. You’ll usually find a bed at that hour. Then you can head out for a big pilgrim lunch.

 

[pietie]

I walked the frances in 2019 solo (63yo female) I had a little 1 person tent with me and I had no problem finding a place to camp. You can camp legally near roncesvailles albergue and for 3 euro use the kitchen and showers. I used an albergue occacionally if I wanted a shower. A few times i was allowed to put my tent up in the garden of an albergue and two times on a private property. 20 out of the 34 nights I wild camped. If you have bivy’s with you I quarantee you that you will have no problem finding a safe place to sleep. make yourself familiar with the rules of wildcamping Leave no trace. When I found a place to sleep I sent my location to my husband via whatsapp. he knew exactly where I was and I would let him know the next morning when I was on the road again. Had I not contacted him by 10 the next morning he would alarm the police. Have a great time and don’t forget to gaze at the stars. And leave no trace. Buen camino.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

The police banned camping and sleeping rough from SJPP to Pamplona due to the risk of being abducted in the Basque region

Rough or wild camping is illegal everywhere in Spain. I don't think there have been any changes to that policy recently.

What I have not heard is that there is a substantial risk of being abducted in the Basque region! Brigands roaming through the woods, kidnapping sleeping pilgrims?

Really? Are you pulling our legs or are you sure the police were not pulling your leg?

In the past, there have been problems with the Basque separatist group ETA, but they ceased activities in 2011 officially, and nothing has happened since then, and I don't think they ever kidnapped any foreigners.