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Pistoia, Italy's jacobean centre

caminka

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Time of past OR future Camino
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I discovered Pistoia when I was researching Via Francigena in 2018 and since then it's been on my list (of places I wish to visit but is now added on the camino list as well). This year I decided to visit it.

To my surprise, it is not only the jacobean centre but also the crossroad of no less than five cammini: Cammino di san Jacopo from Firenze to Livorno (from whence pilgrims would set seil to Spain), Cammino di san Bartolomeo from Fiumalbo to Pistoia, Via Francesca della Sambuca from Bologna to Rome, Via Romea Germanica Imperiale from Germany to Rome, and Via Romea Strata from Baltic to Rome.

La piccola Santiago, as it's also called, became an important pilgrimage centre in the 12C when it's bishop Atto obtained from Santiago de Compostela's bishop Diego Gelmirez a relic of Santiago. Pistoia briefly became a fundamental stop on the road between Rome and Santiago where pilgrims received a special blessing and staff.

A precious silver altar was constructed and a reliquiary was made. A special chapel was added to the cathedral where frescoes depicted pilgrims on their way. San Jacopo became one of the patrons of the city. His image became common on frescoes and paintings, and his attributes part of city's monuments. Several hospitals/hospices were founded, the most famous and still standing is Spedale del Ceppo decorated with the colourful terracotta frieze. Today Pistoia holds the only official galician mojon outside Galicia.

I had a feeling there are more historic images of Santiago here than in Santiago itself.

Quite a few depictions of pilgrims too, which is rare.

A confraternity was founded and it again receives pilgrims in its Spedale di sant'Andrea e Jacopo located next to romanesque church of sant'Andrea. At least six bunk beds, linen, full kitchen, washing machine, wifi, terrace overlooking a small grove (and mosquitos). Donativo. Very nice hospitaleros perform the ritual of feet washing. Open all year, opens at 17h.

I am writing this on the quiet terrace, when it finally cooled down enough to be comfortably outside. With mosquitos, sadly.

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€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Do check opening times beforehand if you want to visit a specific place(s). Some are open in the morning, some in the afternoon, some on specific days, and some only by arrangement. I think that only the baptistery (with the ticket office for Altare d'Argento but I got a 100% pilgrim discount, though without an audioguide), the duomo and the museum in the former bishops' palace are open all day.
 
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