Between Sao Pedro de Rates and Barcelos, around Pereira, we saw a giant sign for the Variante da Franqueira and decided to veer off the traditional path. It was gorgeous! We braved the incline, enjoyed the smell & shade of the trees (Eucalyptus, Oak and Cork), and the almost-traffic-less roads. The beautiful church and grounds of Nossa Senhora do Rosáro da Franqueira were a welcome reward for the hike. The views over Barcelos and environs, all the way to the Atlantic... Wow! Just. Wow.
That sparked a rule of thumb for us the rest of our camino ... when possible "veer left". I haven't actually checked a map to count, but quite frequently the "complementario" routes for any given stage were off to the left. This was true in the case of the Variante described above, before Valenca and O Porrino. The Spiritual Variant itself is a huge "veer left".
<3 These added kilometers, but also beauty.
For lodging, consider Casa Sao Sebastiao in Rubiaes. The host, Sonia, is super friendly and gracious. Though it is not a fancy place, they have a pool, which we 1000% needed on the day we rolled in. Another fun hostel is Darsena do Frances in Cesantes. The grounds are expansive and the sea breeze flows uphill to cool you off.