Walking from Villavieja to Las Médulas

[peregrina2000]

There’s been a lot of scattered chatter about the different options for walking into Las Médulas, but I thought I’d put them all together in one thread and hope for comments from those who have walked. My sketchy diagram is as accurate as I could make it, piecing together distances between villages from wikiloc tracks, but options 2, 3, and 4 are all extremely similar in terms of distance and elevation. The one slight outlier is the official route, which I’ve labeled as 1, which is 13 kms on a straight shot from Villavieja to the town of Médulas, but then you have to add another 8 if you want to get up to Mirador de Orellán, making the total 21.

1. Official route. Villavieja - Castle of Cornatel - Borrenes - Village of Médulas. (about 13 km)

Villavieja - Las Médulas

Villavieja - Las Médulas Hiking trail in Villavieja, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the route on a map. Record your own itinerary from the Wikiloc app, upload the trail and share it with the community.

www.wikiloc.com

This is the marked route. It takes you straight into the village of Las Médulas. Visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Site is highly recommended. Many trails, but most impressive is the trail up to the Mirador Orellán (lookout), which has the absolute best views of the devastation turned spectacular. Walking up to the mirador will add another 8 km to you day’s total, because it is about 4 km from the village up to the lookout.

I think that what happens is that many forum members get to town (especially if they’ve walked from Ponferrada) and then just don’t have the energy to go up to the Mirador and the galleries. The official Camino route out of Las Médulas the next day does have a .5 km well-marked turn-off to another mirador, Las Pedrices, but it is definitely the second fiddle in terms of views, and you won’t get to walk through the galleries, which I enjoyed very much. It gives you greater insight into this incredible feat of engineering and environmental devastation.

2. Villavieja - Castle of Cornatel - Borrenes - Village of Orellán - Mirador of Orellán - village of Médulas. (about 16 km). Take the official route from Villavieja to Borrenes, and then this alternative.

Borrenes-Las Medulas (Camino de Invierno)

Ruta Borrenes-Las Medulas (Camino de Invierno) de Senderismo en Borrenes, Castilla y León (España). Descarga el track GPS y sigue el recorrido del itinerario del sendero desde un mapa. Este track es gentileza de mi amigo Frasco, que compartió este tramo, uno de los miles de kilómetros que hemos...

es.wikiloc.com

This route follows the official route to the village of Borrenes, and then takes an alternative route directly up to the Mirador Orellán without first going into the town of Médulas. This route passes through the village of Orellán and then continues on to the lookout of the same name. The Orellán lookout is located adjacent to the galleries (the tunnels through which the water was pumped that exploded the mountain innards), and a visit there is very interesting. The advantage of this route is that it gets you to the mirador before going into town and is about 5 km shorter than the official route if you add the walk from town up to the mirador (8 km round trip) to your day. Some have noted that parts of the route were overgrown and kind of sketchy, but I did not have that experience. Having done both #1 and #2, I have a strong preference for 2, because you will get to the impressive lookout on your way in, then you can head down to the village (on a forest walk through many chestnuts) to your accommodation, eat lunch, and then have a leisurely walk around the “ground floor” of the Médulas mining site. Unfortunately, the very interesting little museum that had a few very informational videos is now closed. There is a “tourist center”, but it doesn’t have anything that will likely interest you except a stamp for your credential!

3. Villavieja - Cornatel Castle - Paradela - La Chana - Village of Orellán - Mirador of Orellán - Village of Las Médulas (about 14 -15 km)

Villavieja-Orellan-Las Médulas

Villavieja-Orellan-Las Médulas Hiking trail in Villavieja, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Alternativa a la etapa oficial del Camino de invierno.

www.wikiloc.com

I have not walked this route, but it is shorter and does not take you into Borrenes. I did not know about this option last time I walked, but think it looks like a great alternative. You get to see the castle, but you avoid the tedious road descent from the castle to Borrenes.

4. Villavieja - Paradela - La Chana - Village of Orellán - Mirador of Orellán - Village of Médulas (about 15).

Albergue de Villavieja-Paradela de Muces - Mirador de Orellán- Las Médulas. Variante etapa oficial del Camino de Invierno

Albergue de Villavieja-Paradela de Muces - Mirador de Orellán- Las Médulas. Variante etapa oficial del Camino de Invierno Hiking trail in Paradela de Muces, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Pese a que el track comienza en Paradela, la ruta...

www.wikiloc.com

I have not walked this route either, but it is similar to #3, except that it goes to Paradela directly from the albergue in Villavieja and does not ascend to the castle. Personally, I think it is very much worth it to walk up to the castle, which is impossibly perched on the top of a promontory, so I probably wouldn’t take this alternative.

I know there’s a bunch of forum members who have taken some of these alternatives, hoping you will weigh in!

 

[SioCamino]

When I walked, I walked to Las Medulas by the official route but then climbed up to the Orellan mirador from a path that started near the Agoga (?) hotel. I didn't return to Las Medulas but instead followed the trail to Las Pedrices and then rejoined the official camino route after the village of Las Medulas. I walked onto the Puente de Domingo Florez and reckoned I had added maybe 7-8km to my day. It was a lovely route and I was really glad I did it.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Laurie, your explanations and details are extremely helpful in my planning! Thank you so much and I will look forward to reading the experiences of others.

 

[Flog]

The first time I walked, I took the left turn at Borreñes and the alternative rough path which eventually took me to the Orellon Mirador (doesn't seem to correspond with any of your numbers, but clear enough on your schematic), then down through the chestnuts to the Agoga for breakfast before continuing on towards Puenta Domingo Florez.

Second time I took the official path, through Borreñes to Las Medulas and onwards. The best views the second time were about two kilometres past Las Medulas, looking back, pic below. But nothing compares to the Orellan Mirador as you rightly pointed out.

 

[Mrs. Bloem]

In April I walked route 3, which was easy and brings you at the Mirador Las Medulas.
When staying in Villavieja you can visit the Castle that afternoon and I would recommend Route 4 the next day to the Mirador because it is shorter and you don’t have to walk up to the castle again.

 

[peregrina2000]

When I walked, I walked to Las Medulas by the official route but then climbed up to the Orellan mirador from a path that started near the Agoga (?) hotel. I didn't return to Las Medulas but instead followed the trail to Las Pedrices and then rejoined the official camino route after the village of Las Medulas. I walked onto the Puente de Domingo Florez and reckoned I had added maybe 7-8km to my day. It was a lovely route and I was really glad I did it.

This is a great option, too, which allows you to stay on the official route and instead of “backtracking” from the mirador back to the village, you continue on to Puente Domingo Flórez.

@SioCamino, can you ballpark a km total for that? Looks like about 27-28?

Villavieja - town of Médulas - about 13
Town of Médulas - Mirador - about 4
Mirador - Pedrices to rejoin official camino outside Médulas — about 3.5 km?????
Camino - Puente Domingo Flórez - about 7 - 7.5

 

[peregrina2000]

In April I walked route 3, which was easy and brings you at the Mirador Las Medulas.
When staying in Villavieja you can visit the Castle that afternoon and I would recommend Route 4 the next day to the Mirador because it is shorter and you don’t have to walk up to the castle again.

Wow, that’s another great option!

Day 1 from Ponferrada to Villavieja (about 17) with an afternoon visit to the castle (no packs, short up and back).

Day 2 from Villavieja to Las Médulas via Option 4, avoiding the castle because you have already visited it. From the Mirador at Orellán, you can either continue on to Puente de Domingo Flórez (as @SioCamino did) or go down to the town and spend the rest of the day and night there.

This is truly what they mean when they talk about a hive mind. Lots of great ideas!

 

[peregrina2000]

The first time I walked, I took the left turn at Borreñes and the alternative rough path which eventually took me to the Orellon Mirador (doesn't seem to correspond with any of your numbers, but clear enough on your schematic),

I think this is number 2, with the add-on to Puente de Domingo Flórez after breakfast. Very similar to what @SioCamino did.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@peregrina2000, this thread, along with your awesome "abstract" drawing, and the replies coming in and are so very helpful. I can tell you my head is no longer spinning as I now grasp the various options to consider.

 

[Flog]

I think this is number 2, with the add-on to Puente de Domingo Flórez after breakfast. Very similar to what @SioCamino did.

First time, I went this way. I decided on this path after watching Sara Dhooma's videos of her Invierno from a few years ago:

 

[Theatregal]

Love your map Laurie!! A perfect visual for clarifying those alternatives. Thank you for your post!

I walked the official route - Villavieja - Cornatel Castle (a great visit with stunning views) - Borrenes - Medulas Village. I spent two nights and a full day there, exploring the lower trails and galleries in the morning and then mid / late afternoon walking the trail up to the Orellan mirador. The light was spectacular at that time of day.

If I walk the Invierno again, I'll take alternative #2.

 

[SioCamino]

This is a great option, too, which allows you to stay on the official route and instead of “backtracking” from the mirador back to the village, you continue on to Puente Domingo Flórez.

@SioCamino, can you ballpark a km total for that? Looks like about 27-28?

Villavieja - town of Médulas - about 13
Town of Médulas - Mirador - about 4
Mirador - Pedrices to rejoin official camino outside Médulas — about 3.5 km?????
Camino - Puente Domingo Flórez - about 7 - 7.5

I'm not totally sure now but according to my polar steps notes I reckoned my total km that day was closer to 30km versus the 22km I think it would have been without going to Orellan? Unfortunately I don't think I have detailed tracks.

 

[peregrina2000]

. I spent two nights and a full day there, exploring the lower trails and galleries in the morning and then mid / late afternoon walking the trail up to the Orellan mirador.

I agree that late afternoon light is amazing up there. If anyone is planning to spend two nights in the town of Médulas, no need to worry about how to squeeze in the mirador of Orellán since you’ll have a full day to do it. The straightforward, if slightly punishing, officially marked route will serve just fine. I think I remember that you were at the Agoga, which means you also had the benefit of good food and tranquility!

 

[Peregrinopaul]

OK, I’ll weigh in, but bear in mind I was on a bike. I chose to take the road route up to Orellán. Steep, but quiet with great views. I booked into the hostal O Poleiro in Orellán village. Highly recommended, as is the delicious dinner, which I thought very reasonably priced for a restaurant type meal. The next day you are only a stone’s throw from the Mirador, and I concur with others that it’s not to be missed. It also means you will be up there early in the morning when the low-angled sun very much enhances the spectacular view. From there you can descend to Las Medulas itself. By the way, I was very underwhelmed by the visitor centre there.

 

[peregrina2000]

By the way, I was very underwhelmed by the visitor centre there.

Totally agree. The visitor’s center is a joke. And the Aula Arqueológica at the entrance to town (entrance on the official camino, anyway) has unfortunately closed. It was small but chock full of interesting information, and staffed by a professional. There was an excellent video that explained the entire operation. The link to the website I posted has pictures of a lot of the interior, so you can see some of the explanatory panels. Castros in Borrenes, workers living in Orellán, with a net output of 4,500-5,000 kilos of gold over a couple of centuries. I can’t even compute what that looks like.

 

[peregrina2000]

Yes, the path just goes by the side of La Chana.

Take a look at the new diagram I put in the first post. I think it’s more accurate, but happy to do again if I got it wrong.

 

[Flog]

Hmm, I still don't recall going through Orellãn village or any other settlement between Borreñes the Mirador..

 

[peregrina2000]

Hmm, I still don't recall going through Orellãn village or any other settlement between Borreñes the Mirador..

Maybe you had yet another option. Did you follow someone’s tracks? I just followed Amancio’s tracks and it definitely took me through the village.

 

[Theatregal]

I think I remember that you were at the Agoga, which means you also had the benefit of good food and tranquility!

Yes, I stayed at the Agoga. It was wonderful!!

 

[Flog]

Maybe you had yet another option. Did you follow someone’s tracks?

Yes, looking again at my notes, and at Sara's video, I think I actually must have gone through the village after all, so it would have been option 2 on your diagram. I also mention the distance as roughly 12km, which is a little more than your 10.6km but I can't be 100% certain about accuracy, as being a man, I'm prone to exaggeration at times.

 

[AnneMarie1]

I went from Villavieja to Las Medulas (with a long visit to the castle on the way, which included a wonderful conversation with the woman at the ticket entrance about the region, current issues there, its history, the cherry harvest going on, etc.). I wanted to go to the archaeological site, but was unable to due to its hours. So everybody be mindful of that and plan accordingly! I went to the Pedrices mirador the next day and didn't feel like I needed an even more impressive one. That was amazing enough.

 

[pilgrimjim]

There’s been a lot of scattered chatter about the different options for walking into Las Médulas, but I thought I’d put them all together in one thread and hope for comments from those who have walked. My sketchy diagram is as accurate as I could make it, piecing together distances between villages from wikiloc tracks, but options 2, 3, and 4 are all extremely similar in terms of distance and elevation. The one slight outlier is the official route, which I’ve labeled as 1, which is 13 kms on a straight shot from Villavieja to the town of Médulas, but then you have to add another 8 if you want to get up to Mirador de Orellán, making the total 21.

1. Official route. Villavieja - Castle of Cornatel - Borrenes - Village of Médulas. (about 13 km)

Villavieja - Las Médulas

Villavieja - Las Médulas Hiking trail in Villavieja, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the route on a map. Record your own itinerary from the Wikiloc app, upload the trail and share it with the community.

www.wikiloc.com

This is the marked route. It takes you straight into the village of Las Médulas. Visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Site is highly recommended. Many trails, but most impressive is the trail up to the Mirador Orellán (lookout), which has the absolute best views of the devastation turned spectacular. Walking up to the mirador will add another 8 km to you day’s total, because it is about 4 km from the village up to the lookout.

I think that what happens is that many forum members get to town (especially if they’ve walked from Ponferrada) and then just don’t have the energy to go up to the Mirador and the galleries. The official Camino route out of Las Médulas the next day does have a .5 km well-marked turn-off to another mirador, Las Pedrices, but it is definitely the second fiddle in terms of views, and you won’t get to walk through the galleries, which I enjoyed very much. It gives you greater insight into this incredible feat of engineering and environmental devastation.

2. Villavieja - Castle of Cornatel - Borrenes - Village of Orellán - Mirador of Orellán - village of Médulas. (about 16 km). Take the official route from Villavieja to Borrenes, and then this alternative.

Borrenes-Las Medulas (Camino de Invierno)

Ruta Borrenes-Las Medulas (Camino de Invierno) de Senderismo en Borrenes, Castilla y León (España). Descarga el track GPS y sigue el recorrido del itinerario del sendero desde un mapa. Este track es gentileza de mi amigo Frasco, que compartió este tramo, uno de los miles de kilómetros que hemos...

es.wikiloc.com

This route follows the official route to the village of Borrenes, and then takes an alternative route directly up to the Mirador Orellán without first going into the town of Médulas. This route passes through the village of Orellán and then continues on to the lookout of the same name. The Orellán lookout is located adjacent to the galleries (the tunnels through which the water was pumped that exploded the mountain innards), and a visit there is very interesting. The advantage of this route is that it gets you to the mirador before going into town and is about 5 km shorter than the official route if you add the walk from town up to the mirador (8 km round trip) to your day. Some have noted that parts of the route were overgrown and kind of sketchy, but I did not have that experience. Having done both #1 and #2, I have a strong preference for 2, because you will get to the impressive lookout on your way in, then you can head down to the village (on a forest walk through many chestnuts) to your accommodation, eat lunch, and then have a leisurely walk around the “ground floor” of the Médulas mining site. Unfortunately, the very interesting little museum that had a few very informational videos is now closed. There is a “tourist center”, but it doesn’t have anything that will likely interest you except a stamp for your credential!

3. Villavieja - Cornatel Castle - Paradela - La Chana - Village of Orellán - Mirador of Orellán - Village of Las Médulas (about 14 -15 km)

Villavieja-Orellan-Las Médulas

Villavieja-Orellan-Las Médulas Hiking trail in Villavieja, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Alternativa a la etapa oficial del Camino de invierno.

www.wikiloc.com

I have not walked this route, but it is shorter and does not take you into Borrenes. I did not know about this option last time I walked, but think it looks like a great alternative. You get to see the castle, but you avoid the tedious road descent from the castle to Borrenes.

4. Villavieja - Paradela - La Chana - Village of Orellán - Mirador of Orellán - Village of Médulas (about 15).

Albergue de Villavieja-Paradela de Muces - Mirador de Orellán- Las Médulas. Variante etapa oficial del Camino de Invierno

Albergue de Villavieja-Paradela de Muces - Mirador de Orellán- Las Médulas. Variante etapa oficial del Camino de Invierno Hiking trail in Paradela de Muces, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Pese a que el track comienza en Paradela, la ruta...

www.wikiloc.com

I have not walked this route either, but it is similar to #3, except that it goes to Paradela directly from the albergue in Villavieja and does not ascend to the castle. Personally, I think it is very much worth it to walk up to the castle, which is impossibly perched on the top of a promontory, so I probably wouldn’t take this alternative.

I know there’s a bunch of forum members who have taken some of these alternatives, hoping you will weigh in!


View attachment 176039

Thanks so much for this. It has been my uncertain section for my walk in September. Planning on option 3 and staying in Orrllan in the hopes that the shorter walk will allow me some time at the mirador area.

 

[setmeravelles]

In 2022, I followed the Camino because I didn't know about any variants. I walked from Ponferrada to Las Médulas in one day, stopping at the castle and enjoying it, and I had time for some exploration (but I didn't make it to Orellán). I did make it to the other mirador (Las Pedrices) right after sunrise the next morning, and it was spectacular.

In retrospect I definitely wish I had known about the other variants I could have taken. But I was still pleased with what I was able to see, especially since Las Médulas had been on my bucket list for forever.

 

[peregrina2000]

But I was still pleased with what I was able to see,

This is a really good point, that the Camino de Invierno is wonderful no matter which path you take. And I don’t mean to suggest differently. I’m afraid those of us who have walked the Invierno multiple times may get carried away with trying to improve the experience for others, but of course the Invierno is about so much more than the time of day and which view you get of the Médulas.

Thank you for making that point!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi Laurie, I finally will have some time to study all of these helpful replies that have been coming in. The one thing I have decided at the moment is that I will be making sure I see the Orellan mirador before I check in at Agoga. I am really looking forward to staying there and thanks for your help in reserving a room in this well loved place that fills up fast.

 

[ArleneLaskey]

Thank you so much for these ideas, I really find your pencil drawing most helpful. A bit off the topic, I am planning to walk from Molineseca to Villavieja in one day, with a stop for supplies in Ponferrada. Is that realistic? I don't think I will make it to the castle that same day, though. And I definitely like the idea of seeing the Mirador before heading into Las Medulas town. Much appreciated.

 

[peregrina2000]

I am planning to walk from Molineseca to Villavieja in one day, with a stop for supplies in Ponferrada. Is that realistic?

I think it would be a very do-able 25 km day — about 8 flat km to Ponferrada, then the 16 or so to Villavieja, with the last 5 km being a fairly steady ascent — not a killer, but a huffer and puffer.

 

[caminka]

A long time ago (in 2012) I walked to las Medulas by bypassing Villavieja and Cornatel, thus also reducing the climb a lot. Then the albergue in Villavieja has been established but not yet open (and I think it was the old one in a different house?).

I found an old lane passing ermita de la Virgen del Carmen and cutting across N-536 road, which was possibly the old road before the national road was made.

Of course I didn't visit the castle but this also had very sketchy hours at that time.

I slept in las Medulas and visited the galleries and viewpoints.

Here is the wikiloc: https://es.wikiloc.com/rutas-senderismo/camino2012-143-ponferrada-las-medulas-21645612

 

[Flog]

I took that same shortcut last year, as I wanted to push on to Puenta de Domingo Florez, having already stayed at the lovely new albergue at Villavieja on my first Invierno.

 

[Simperegrina]

Thank you so much for these ideas, I really find your pencil drawing most helpful. A bit off the topic, I am planning to walk from Molineseca to Villavieja in one day, with a stop for supplies in Ponferrada. Is that realistic? I don't think I will make it to the castle that same day, though. And I definitely like the idea of seeing the Mirador before heading into Las Medulas town. Much appreciated.

Take a look at the Templar’s castle in Ponferrada if you have time…you’ll pick up the start of the Invierno only a few mins walk from it…

 

[ArleneLaskey]

Take a look at the Templar’s castle in Ponferrada if you have time…you’ll pick up the start of the Invierno only a few mins walk from it…

Thanks for the suggestion. I visited the Templar castle the first time through. Though probably worth a second look, I will pass for this time.

And thank you @peregrina2000, that makes me feel better about my plan. I am so excited! I have heard so many great things about the Camino Invierno