NadineK
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Frances (2014)
Norte/Primitivo (2015)
San Salvador (2016)
Le Puy-Cahors (2017)
Aragonés (2019)
I’m a couple weeks into my walk on the Gudbrandsdalsleden, Oslo to Trondheim, and it’s been a fabulous walk so far. When I started gathering information for the trip, this forum was the first place I came to, and so I thought it could be helpful to future pilgrims to share some thoughts!
Initially I was a bit nervous for this; I’ve gotten so accustomed to the Camino that walking a different pilgrimage in a new country felt daunting. My main planning sources were the website (https://pilegrimsleden.no/en/lag-din-egen-tur#gudbrandsdalsleden) and Ria Warmerdam’s guidebook (an English language edition was just published earlier this year).
Many people carry a tent for this walk, though I decided to go without and rely on lodging options along the way. I’ve been reserving one to two nights ahead; in the early stages and up until Lillehammer, the path was quiet and I could have contacted my hosts the day of (and some pilgrims just showed up and asked about a bed when they arrived). Past Lillehammer the path has gotten more crowded (by crowded, we’re talking 15-20 pilgrims on my stages) and some places are booking up, so I do think it’s wise to reserve a few days ahead.
The food situation has been okay, but this is nothing like a Camino. Some days don’t pass any towns with services, so you have to look ahead and be prepared. As others have noted, almost everything is closed on Sundays (though gas stations, if you pass one, are generally open and have toilets and tables and coffee and some food options). Some lodgings have basic food items available to buy, and many/most have had coffee (either free or for a dollar or two), so coffee in the morning hasn’t been much of a problem. I brought along some instant coffee and that’s come in handy a few of the days. When I l’m staying at a place where there’s a dinner or breakfast option, I’ve taken it: the food has been good and filling and I’ve gotten to try some local dishes. I fill up my water in church cemeteries, and churches are great spots to stop and visit/rest- you can usually get a stamp, sometimes a cup of coffee or tea if you catch the church when it’s open, and sometimes have toilets you can use.
The walking is varied and beautiful and sometimes a bit monotonous… a true pilgrimage! There have been some difficult sections, especially where the path is steep and slippery with wet rocks and tree roots. I’ve had sunshine and rain, it hailed briefly when I was in Lillehammer, and there’s still snow high up on the mountain tops (but luckily not where I’m walking). So many sections are stunningly beautiful.
There have been so many highlights: great pilgrim connections and friendships, sleeping in stabburs (storehouses), a lavvo (military tent), in beautiful farm houses and a pilgrim loft from the 1300’s. Mosquito bites and getting my feet soaked in wet grass and bogs, seeing a moose (!!), being able to stay up late enough one night to catch a sunset, running into @dougfitz and having a great chat, drying off in pilgrim shelters with hot cups of tea, eating fresh strawberries, walking for hours and hours and not seeing a soul.
What a great pilgrimage this has been! I’ll try to update again once I’ve finished walking.
Initially I was a bit nervous for this; I’ve gotten so accustomed to the Camino that walking a different pilgrimage in a new country felt daunting. My main planning sources were the website (https://pilegrimsleden.no/en/lag-din-egen-tur#gudbrandsdalsleden) and Ria Warmerdam’s guidebook (an English language edition was just published earlier this year).
Many people carry a tent for this walk, though I decided to go without and rely on lodging options along the way. I’ve been reserving one to two nights ahead; in the early stages and up until Lillehammer, the path was quiet and I could have contacted my hosts the day of (and some pilgrims just showed up and asked about a bed when they arrived). Past Lillehammer the path has gotten more crowded (by crowded, we’re talking 15-20 pilgrims on my stages) and some places are booking up, so I do think it’s wise to reserve a few days ahead.
The food situation has been okay, but this is nothing like a Camino. Some days don’t pass any towns with services, so you have to look ahead and be prepared. As others have noted, almost everything is closed on Sundays (though gas stations, if you pass one, are generally open and have toilets and tables and coffee and some food options). Some lodgings have basic food items available to buy, and many/most have had coffee (either free or for a dollar or two), so coffee in the morning hasn’t been much of a problem. I brought along some instant coffee and that’s come in handy a few of the days. When I l’m staying at a place where there’s a dinner or breakfast option, I’ve taken it: the food has been good and filling and I’ve gotten to try some local dishes. I fill up my water in church cemeteries, and churches are great spots to stop and visit/rest- you can usually get a stamp, sometimes a cup of coffee or tea if you catch the church when it’s open, and sometimes have toilets you can use.
The walking is varied and beautiful and sometimes a bit monotonous… a true pilgrimage! There have been some difficult sections, especially where the path is steep and slippery with wet rocks and tree roots. I’ve had sunshine and rain, it hailed briefly when I was in Lillehammer, and there’s still snow high up on the mountain tops (but luckily not where I’m walking). So many sections are stunningly beautiful.
There have been so many highlights: great pilgrim connections and friendships, sleeping in stabburs (storehouses), a lavvo (military tent), in beautiful farm houses and a pilgrim loft from the 1300’s. Mosquito bites and getting my feet soaked in wet grass and bogs, seeing a moose (!!), being able to stay up late enough one night to catch a sunset, running into @dougfitz and having a great chat, drying off in pilgrim shelters with hot cups of tea, eating fresh strawberries, walking for hours and hours and not seeing a soul.
What a great pilgrimage this has been! I’ll try to update again once I’ve finished walking.
