- Time of past OR future Camino
- So many since 2003.
September 2021:
Well against quite a few ‘odds’ I travelled to Portugal and am now attempting to follow @jungleboy (and Wendy) on the Caminho Nascente from Tavira to Trancoso. Their posts from May/June inspired me to follow their footsteps.
Their notes and subsequent Wise Pilgrim App (WP) are my lifelines. If I discover anything new or relevant to September cf May, I’ll post here.
As we all know, travel is changing by the day so I’m not sure how far I’ll get.
FYI: It’s unlikely I’ll be online very much to reply. Apologies in advance.
First Week:
Day 1 from Tavira to Vila Real de Santo Antonio.
Tavira: the church of Santiago was open again. Perhaps only open during the ‘summer season’ as it is part of a 4-church route. You purchase a passport/card for 10€ (5€ pilgrims) and obtain a stamp at each of the churches.
In Tavira I stayed at O Muralha ( 77€. Rua da Liberdade n.º 22 TAVIRA. P: +351 927 139 283 )
Today’s walk to VRSO was pretty exhausting for me. 26km and very hot coming from winter in the Southern Hemisphere.
Day 2: I walked VRSA to Alcaria (I was not able to get accom at the stage end of Almada de Ouro).
A lovely country walk after the first few km to Castro Marin on a bike path. From here I reverted to WP (wise pilgrim) tracks (GR15) taking me off the road walking. It was lovely although more ups and downs.
In Junquera the little bar opened at 8.45. Basic, not friendly. Better bar in Azinhal. From Almada de Ouro to Alcaria, again on the quiet WP track.
Lovely bar in Alcaria (Albertos) with a wholesome lunch. I called the taxi office in VRSO to return me for the night. (+351 969950303)
And of course, next day (D3) taxi back to Alcaria to walk the remainder of the stage to Alcoutim.
I was expecting a casual wander beside the R. Guardiana. Not so. It’s mostly on the road 100m away from the river, with many ups and downs. The river glimpses were súper with many pleasure yachts moored next to holiday homes.
There were no stops all day and the first week of September was very very hot.
Arrival in Alcoutim was a blessing. I found my way to Brisas do Guardiana (Rosalia +351967531064. €60) and enjoyed a room with pretty view over the castle. A small town and very easy to wander around. Stamp from tourist office. Make sure you see the Bordallo II sculpture of a cat down by the river.
Next stage (day 4) Alcoutim to Mesquita proved a problem. Cesar’s ‘albergue’ in Mesquita was booked out with archeologists working in the area. So I just decided to miss that stage. Rosalia organised a 6.30am taxi to Mesquita and from there I walked to Mértola.
This gorgeous area is where you start to see the public bread ovens in the small villages. It’s also a very popular hunting area - I disturbed many pheasants on the quiet country tracks.
Stop first in Vicentes, visit the public bathroom (many villages here have them). The next village Lombardos has a tiny bar for refreshments.
From here there are 3 options: over a rickety bridge (shortest), through farmland (middle) and returning to the N122 following the arrows (longest and gruelling if hot).
At the bar I was told the bridge is broken, so plan B was to take the country route on WP.
Unfortunately I missed a turn and ended up on the N122. Lots of traffic, 9km in 32C and no shade. Not my favourite day.
But arriving to Mértola and accommodation Casa do Funil (Paula +351286610010 or Rui +351934187455 €60) was a pleasure that made it worth it. Great hosts, super helpful and kind. Rui is an artist/architect and drew- painted the most beautiful stamp in my credential. Very special.
Day 5: Mértola to Amendoeira 29km. The hot weather had become an issue, and another long day of sun not an option. Rui kindly dropped me some of the way and I completed the rest of the way stocked up with water. Fabulous day with rolling valleys, livestock and pheasant hunting land.
The only stop, Mosteiro has a small bar where all the villagers seem to pass.
Only 3km to Amendoeira in 36C now! and a wonderful reception at the Recreation centre. The locals told me it had reached 48C the previous week!
It was Saturday and the annual fiesta Pulo do Lobo was in full swing. (Lucky to get food)
At the Rec Centre I was given the keys to the ‘albergue’ (50m away) complete with lovely comfy beds, sheets and towels 30€ (Ph the day before- Maria +351286998011) Order any meals you want in advance also.
From here to Cabeça Gorda (day 6) a dirt farm road all day. A couple of very steep parts but mostly rolling hills.
At 15km in the Vale do Russins I happened to ‘luck out’ arriving on a Sunday - bread baking day.
Unfortunately Cabeça is not a great place to arrive on a Sunday. Make sure you organise accommodation here in advance - on a weekday by calling the local council. (+351284947294)
The free accommodation offered is in a day centre for elderly. There is one ‘hospital’ bed with a rubber mattress and a few blankets but you’ll need a sleeping sheet or bag.
Lovely friendly girls will check you in but you won’t be allowed to have a key.
On Sunday there is one place for lunch Casa de Pasto (there are two bars with the same name, it’s the one furthest from the church)
Cabeça Gorda to Beja (day 7) was my ‘day of dogs’ A lovely mainly flat walk but many security dogs. A couple of them were not tied up but only growled, no biting.
Stayed in a private apartment in the centre €50 ( call Joana +351961489032 )
Spend time wandering the castle walls and the wonderful Keep later in the day. The tourists have left by 5. Closes at 6pm
Well against quite a few ‘odds’ I travelled to Portugal and am now attempting to follow @jungleboy (and Wendy) on the Caminho Nascente from Tavira to Trancoso. Their posts from May/June inspired me to follow their footsteps.
Their notes and subsequent Wise Pilgrim App (WP) are my lifelines. If I discover anything new or relevant to September cf May, I’ll post here.
As we all know, travel is changing by the day so I’m not sure how far I’ll get.
FYI: It’s unlikely I’ll be online very much to reply. Apologies in advance.
First Week:
Day 1 from Tavira to Vila Real de Santo Antonio.
Tavira: the church of Santiago was open again. Perhaps only open during the ‘summer season’ as it is part of a 4-church route. You purchase a passport/card for 10€ (5€ pilgrims) and obtain a stamp at each of the churches.
In Tavira I stayed at O Muralha ( 77€. Rua da Liberdade n.º 22 TAVIRA. P: +351 927 139 283 )
Today’s walk to VRSO was pretty exhausting for me. 26km and very hot coming from winter in the Southern Hemisphere.
Day 2: I walked VRSA to Alcaria (I was not able to get accom at the stage end of Almada de Ouro).
A lovely country walk after the first few km to Castro Marin on a bike path. From here I reverted to WP (wise pilgrim) tracks (GR15) taking me off the road walking. It was lovely although more ups and downs.
In Junquera the little bar opened at 8.45. Basic, not friendly. Better bar in Azinhal. From Almada de Ouro to Alcaria, again on the quiet WP track.
Lovely bar in Alcaria (Albertos) with a wholesome lunch. I called the taxi office in VRSO to return me for the night. (+351 969950303)
And of course, next day (D3) taxi back to Alcaria to walk the remainder of the stage to Alcoutim.
I was expecting a casual wander beside the R. Guardiana. Not so. It’s mostly on the road 100m away from the river, with many ups and downs. The river glimpses were súper with many pleasure yachts moored next to holiday homes.
There were no stops all day and the first week of September was very very hot.
Arrival in Alcoutim was a blessing. I found my way to Brisas do Guardiana (Rosalia +351967531064. €60) and enjoyed a room with pretty view over the castle. A small town and very easy to wander around. Stamp from tourist office. Make sure you see the Bordallo II sculpture of a cat down by the river.
Next stage (day 4) Alcoutim to Mesquita proved a problem. Cesar’s ‘albergue’ in Mesquita was booked out with archeologists working in the area. So I just decided to miss that stage. Rosalia organised a 6.30am taxi to Mesquita and from there I walked to Mértola.
This gorgeous area is where you start to see the public bread ovens in the small villages. It’s also a very popular hunting area - I disturbed many pheasants on the quiet country tracks.
Stop first in Vicentes, visit the public bathroom (many villages here have them). The next village Lombardos has a tiny bar for refreshments.
From here there are 3 options: over a rickety bridge (shortest), through farmland (middle) and returning to the N122 following the arrows (longest and gruelling if hot).
At the bar I was told the bridge is broken, so plan B was to take the country route on WP.
Unfortunately I missed a turn and ended up on the N122. Lots of traffic, 9km in 32C and no shade. Not my favourite day.
But arriving to Mértola and accommodation Casa do Funil (Paula +351286610010 or Rui +351934187455 €60) was a pleasure that made it worth it. Great hosts, super helpful and kind. Rui is an artist/architect and drew- painted the most beautiful stamp in my credential. Very special.
Day 5: Mértola to Amendoeira 29km. The hot weather had become an issue, and another long day of sun not an option. Rui kindly dropped me some of the way and I completed the rest of the way stocked up with water. Fabulous day with rolling valleys, livestock and pheasant hunting land.
The only stop, Mosteiro has a small bar where all the villagers seem to pass.
Only 3km to Amendoeira in 36C now! and a wonderful reception at the Recreation centre. The locals told me it had reached 48C the previous week!
It was Saturday and the annual fiesta Pulo do Lobo was in full swing. (Lucky to get food)
At the Rec Centre I was given the keys to the ‘albergue’ (50m away) complete with lovely comfy beds, sheets and towels 30€ (Ph the day before- Maria +351286998011) Order any meals you want in advance also.
From here to Cabeça Gorda (day 6) a dirt farm road all day. A couple of very steep parts but mostly rolling hills.
At 15km in the Vale do Russins I happened to ‘luck out’ arriving on a Sunday - bread baking day.
Unfortunately Cabeça is not a great place to arrive on a Sunday. Make sure you organise accommodation here in advance - on a weekday by calling the local council. (+351284947294)
The free accommodation offered is in a day centre for elderly. There is one ‘hospital’ bed with a rubber mattress and a few blankets but you’ll need a sleeping sheet or bag.
Lovely friendly girls will check you in but you won’t be allowed to have a key.
On Sunday there is one place for lunch Casa de Pasto (there are two bars with the same name, it’s the one furthest from the church)
Cabeça Gorda to Beja (day 7) was my ‘day of dogs’ A lovely mainly flat walk but many security dogs. A couple of them were not tied up but only growled, no biting.
Stayed in a private apartment in the centre €50 ( call Joana +351961489032 )
Spend time wandering the castle walls and the wonderful Keep later in the day. The tourists have left by 5. Closes at 6pm