LIVE from the Camino Nascente over two years 2021 2023 [belated notes]

[gracethepilgrim]

Nascente files, Part 1 2021


Preamble
This thread may be a bit late…but I decided it’s now time to post my notes on the ‘Triple’ that Nick and Wendy ‘inaugurated’ here in 2021. Thanks so much to @jungleboy and @Wendy Werneth for your detailed notes and your added encouragement via whatsapp as I navigated the Nascente.

The triple is a combo of the Caminho Nascente, joining up with the Camino Torres at Trancoso until Braga, and from there the final Caminho Geira e dos Arreiros to Santiago.

Aside: This year 2024, in September, I plan to walk the Camino Torres from Salamanca to Braga (passing through Trancoso, the end point of the Nascente)
At Braga I’ll hop on to the Geira e dos Arreiros and make my way to Santiago.


This thread is a summary of my notes covering two tranches, 2021 and 2023 walking the Caminho Nascente.


Day 0. August 30 2021, Travel Lisbon to Tavira

Travel to Lisbon Sete Rios (Jardim Zoológico) bus station for an 8.15am/ 4 hour bus trip to Tavira.
Stayed at Hotel A Muralha (central) which is close to the start of the camino.
Enjoyed a lovely evening (not sure which bar) partaking Portuguese dried tuna, muxama and a glass o’ wine (*giggles)
My kms may be a little off as I do not record my walking. I relied on Nicks distances and then approximated my diversions.

Day 1. Aug31, Tavira – Villa Real de Santo Antonio 26km

Stay: Villa Marquez 50eu single, nice room with a wee balcony
Walk: started early at 6:30 dawn. Exit town on a dusty path, not v pretty. Nick mentioned a lovely village of Cancela Velha…I was hoping to visit but missed the turnoff.
At this time of year it was very hot, so the pine forest at 19km was very much appreciated.

[TOMORROW planning] After arriving at VRdSA, I attempted to book Almada de Ouro for tomorrow but there was nowhere to stay.
…hatched a cunning plan to walk to a bit further to Alcaria, phone for a taxi back to ARdSA and return to Alcaria by taxi in the morning.

Day 2. Sep1, Villa Real de Santo Antonio - Alcaria 24km

Stay: Villa Marquez in Villa Real again (returned from Alcaria by taxi)
Walk: First part to Castro Marin 3km on a nice bike trail and then a steep gravelly path to Monte Francisco. Continued walking 6km past Almada de Ouro to my end point Alcaria, a mere village.
Highlight of the day was lunch at Bar Albertos…duck stew. Friendly barman called for my taxi and I was duly returned to VRdSA

Day 3. Sep2, Alcaria – Alcoutim 19km

Stay: Brisas do Guardiana 60eu, Ph Rosalia 967531064
Walk: First a return to Alcaria via taxi.
A fairly asphalty day walking beside, but rarely with a view of, the lovely Rio Guardiana.
Alcoutim is a very sweet whitewashed village and Rosalia met me in the centre to take me to her guesthouse. Lovely . . with a view of the castle. Intrigued, I included a castle visit in my afternoon wanders.

A dear Spanish friend joined me in Alcoutim for a few days camino-ing. So much more fun to have a mate to chat with and for some strange reason there would be more coffee stops.
The Nascente is a caminho of surprises, kinda like a box of chocolates. From one day to the next you never know what you’ll get.
The next stage gave us a little hiccup as there was no place to stay in Mesquita (albergue closed or full?) so another plan was hatched . . .
Rosalia kindly organised a taxi to Mesquita meaning a missed stage.

Day 4 . Sep3, Alcoutim – Mesquita (taxi 16km) – Mertola 29km

Stay: Casa do Funil 60eu FABULOUS Paula and Rui ph 286612056
Walk: The taxi dropped us in the deserted village of Mesquita but the camino is actually 4 km prior so an extra wander to get back to the camino.
Great walking day, the sound of pheasants rustling in the grass.
The first small village (Vicente) still has the old shared public bread ovens and public bath-houses.
Another 7km to Lombardos and a welcome coffee/snack stop. The locals told us not to take the bridge route as it was ‘broken’ so the longer road option was the alternative way. We must have missed a turn as we ended up on the N122 for 9km into Mertola (there were sporadic arrows). Not fun, lots of traffic and hot hot hot.
The lovely oasis at Rui’s was so welcome. His selho is hand drawn and painted with water colours ~my favourite stamp of all time.
As a crafter, I thoroughly enjoyed a visit to the weaving museum in Mertola.
FYI the castle is closed at 7pm so visit earlier in the afternoon.

Think about carrying a little bit of food for tomorrow, there’s only a simple bar. Also, you need to pre-book the alb in Amendoeira (recommended to pre-order a bar meal at the same time)

Day 5 . Sep4, Mertola - Amendoeira da Serra

Stay: (Albergue) Rec Centre 30eu incl cotton sheets ph 286998011 Dona Maria PRE BOOK
Walk: First part to Corte Gafo de Cima is on a quiet road, then a dirt track to Mosteiro where a cold drink stop at Maria’s small bar was a welcome relief from the heat (did I say hot hot hot)
Only another 3km on a quiet road to destination AdS.
Camino synchronicity at work? We arrived on a day of fiesta so the bar was packed inside and out, in full swing.
The entire village (and a busload of visitors) was in attendance for Pulo do Lobo. (something about the rustlers jumping the river from Portugal to Spain)
The food we were served for lunch was hearty and tasty (20eu for 2): wine, pork-spuds-chickpeas, followed by icecream, coffee and liqueur.
Later in the afternoon, from the lovely albergue, we heard the party ramping up and made our way back to the festivities. It ended up being a late evening of fado, dancing, new friends and more delicious food.

Note: If your arrival in Cabeca Gorda tomorrow is on the weekend, definitely organise accom with the Freguesia on a week day.

Day 6. Sep5, Amendoeira da Serra – Cabeca Gorda 24km

Stay: Centro de Convivio, (basic, free) Ph Freguesia 284947294/284311800 (weekdays) Sandra 962516899 Need own sheet/sleeping bag. Massage table or couch for bed. Shower, kitchen
Walk: It was a gorgeous Sunday meander all day. A 5.30 start meant the sunrise was a perfect countryside show. Wide horizon, pink dappled symmetrical hills bumping in front of each other. Picture perfect camino morning.
First village Vale do Russins at about 15km was an absolute thrill for me. A Sunday, the hamlet seemed deserted until a stocky little woman emerged from a lean-to. She was making the weekly sourdough in a wood fired oven.
Kindly she stopped her toil to make our coffee in the tiny bar Romao. The alluring smell of the bread overpowered me but sadly it was far from being ready. Instead she produced a slice of the previous batch and a slab of cheese.
I imagined her sinewy arms under her shirt. I’d love to hear if her and hubby are still making the bread.
Cabeca Gorda is not the prettiest of towns but the girls who met us and took us to the quirky accommodation were little rays of sunshine. They pointed out to us where there was a bar to pre-order an afternoon meal ‘Casa de Pasto’, homestyle food.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Day 7. Sep6, Cabeca Gorda - Beja 14km

Stay: Suite na Praca da Republica (AirBnB) 50eu Joana 961489032
Walk: A day of country roads, industrial olive farms and barky dogs.
Early arrival in the castle town of Beja meant plenty of time to explore the Cathedral and walk the castle walls.
Nice big town to enjoy restaurant food and people watching.

Day 8. Sep7, Beja – Cuba 20km

Stay: Hospedaria do Camo (also called Chave D’ouro, restaurant) 25eu Ph 964137961, 284412458
Walk: A short exit through a small industrial area then the remainder of the day on a gravel/dirt road. So much agriculture – olives grapes sunflowers corn melons.
When you arrive at Sao Matias, there is a bar on the main rd but at least 2 more bars further inside the village.
In Cuba, I had a mission. . . .
My investigations prior to departing turned up an artisan shoemaker Mario Grillo (Rua do Penedo, 1 near Columbus square). He is the last custom shoemaker left in Portugal and uses vegetable cured leather. His made-to-measure boots and shoes are something to be seen. If you are lucky, there may be some off-the-shelf pairs in your size in his tiny workshop, otherwise it’s a long wait for a custom pair.
Later in the afternoon I found my way to Adega Canena recommended by Nick and Wendy, to see the giant wine amphoras. Another treat . . . so naturally I spent the late afternoon chatting with some elderly locals as they ‘plied’ me with red wine and delicious snacks they’d brought from home. A precious experience. ‘Saude’

Day 9. Sep8, Cuba - Alvito 15km

Stay: Pousada Castelo 90eu 284480700 (a luxurious treat) Eat: O’ Frances
Walk: I took the WP (Wise Pilgrim) route on a quiet farm road between cattle farms. All beasts perfectly harmless, despite the warning signs. After 8km I emerged onto the main road again . . .not fun but only 3km then a country path to finish the day.
Alvito is a pretty hillside village with a lovely restaurant O’Frances to replenish the body and warm the soul

Day 10. Sep9, Alvito – Viana do Alentejo 12km – Aguiar, extra 11km (return Viana by bus)

Stay: O Convento 35eu ph 911025282 Eat 3 Bicas
Walk: Very pretty walk on a quiet road then turn off onto a dirt track.
Because I arrived early in Viana (tomorrows stage to Evora is 36km) I decided to shave a bit off the 36km by walking a bit further today and then returning.
At the bus station I discovered that there is a bus returning from Aguiar to Viana at around 1pm, giving me time to walk the 11km. So that’s what I did. The route was along very dusty path, not glamorous but the kms fell away quickly.
The bus arrived on time and deposited me back to Viana in time for lunch and a wander out to the Santuario. I didn't quite realise how far it was! To my surprise, two lovely Spanish gents visiting at the same time offered to drive me back to town.
For tomorrow, to get back to Aguiar, there are weekday buses leaving 6.15 and 8.15 (check still current) or taxi 965149927 965666927

Day 11. Sep10, Viana – Aguiar (taxi) – Evora 25km

Stay: Evora Inn (2 nights) 936212981
Walk: As per Nicks comments…a lot of the day on N254 and then a meander into the city of Evora. A quick bite of lunch at the market then an afternoon to visit the Se and it’s museo and the Temple of Bones.

Sept11 Rest day in Evora to meet up with Aurelio and Rita, wonderful camino friends from Lisbon. We did an excursion out to the countryside to visit the pretty hilltop village of Monsaraz, the Cromlech neolithic menhirs and then some lovely pottery villages. Thanks so much @amsimoes and Rita for your kindness in driving from Lisboa and sharing your day with me.

Day 12. Sep12, Evora – Sao Miguel de Marchede 23km

Stay: Dona Joana (private albergue in her backyard, gorgeous) Book via 961687306, café Central 266743279, try Evora council as last resort 266987186 if these numbers no longer work.
Walk: Start with an easy 4km to get into the country all the way to Nossa Sa de Machade for coffee.
From here there were some strange deviations between WP GPS track and the arrows. Hopefully they have now been rectified.
Lots of farmland and olives today. In 2021 there was a detour at the quarry but as Sao Miguel is now in sight, head towards the steel wine tanks and the arrows should appear again.
Once in SMdM, head to Café Central and one of the staff will alert Joana to your arrival. She is such a generous and kind lady opening her home to pilgrims. She has built a ‘tiny house’ in her backyard with facilities much more glam than her own simple home.
Joana loves to chat about your camino experiences (in Portuguese only) . . .so we communicated with lots of drawings and hand signals.
I have wonderful memories from this village . . . she paraded me all around the village to see the sights and chat to locals, then provided a simple meal for me (There is no food in the bar so remember to take something to share with her)
She even came out of her bedroom at 6.30am to hug me as I left. My eyes were a little damp as I exited the town, and it wasn't raining.

Day 13. Sep13, Sao Miguel de Marchede - Evoramonte 25km

Stay: The Place 65eu Vicki and Mitch 927603884 So lovely, dinner on the terrace overlooking the valley. Luxury rooms and phenomenal food and wine. Do stop here. It’s a very special place on this camino.
Walk: A super day and mainly flat. A quick coffee in Azaruja at the bar on the left as you enter the village. In the back room they have a display of amphoras (wine). The final track is through a cork forest and then more farms. On this drizzly day the orange of the newly-harvested cork trunks was in brilliant contrast to the grey clouds.
The ambiance and stunning views of ‘The Place’ was so fitting to end part 1 of my Caminho Nascente.
To be continued in May 2023 . . . . .

 

[gracethepilgrim]

The Nascente files, Part 2 2023

Preamble
Time to complete the Nascente and enjoy a different season, spring.
The return to Evoramonte required a train from Lisbon to Evora and then a taxi to Evoramonte.

Day 1. May2 2023, Evoramonte - Estremoz 25km

Stay: Residencial Carvalho, 35eu Very friendly
Walk: Surprise surprise, after being dropped off in Evoramonte early morning, I saw my first Nascente pilgrims in the small bar. Woop woop. We’d end up walking on our own and occasionally bumping into each other all the way to Trancoso.
The first half of the walk was super lovely through olive and cork groves, ups and downs a-go-go.
With 7km to Estremoz, there is an option to take the road directly to town or a more pleasant countryside route. Hindsight is a wonder isn’t it?
I took the longer route and soon regretted it. On a cooler day it would have been perfectly fine but it was my first day of walking (coming from winter in NZ) and temp in the 30s.
But every disaster always has a wonderful high point. The friendly owners of Res. Carvalho were so kind, gave me a lovely room and revived me with cool water. All was well.
Estremoz is a wonderful small town with plenty of places to visit.
Do not miss popping your head into the artisan shops where the local clay Boneco figurines are made. I was in my crafty element.
A trip to the antiques museum provides a further look into the historic past of this unique art.
The town boasts a castle, and you can ask in the ‘Parador’ next to it for access to climb the tower. Such fun!


Day 2. May3, Estremoz - Sousel 20km

Stay: Residencial Sorriso, 30eu ph: 961532682
Walk: Lucky for me there was a café open a few doors down from the Residencial at 6.30am.
No stops all day and lovely rural stage on dirt tracks, surrounded by olives and cork.
In Sousel the Info centre gave me a list of places to stay but were not too helpful with any local visits.
I had a great prato do dia lunch at Rest. O Kurika on the main road.

Day 3. May4, Sousel - Fronteira 19km

Stay: Bombeiros
Walk: On the way out of town, I spied a bar open at 6:00am. Joy of joys, coffee and still-warm-pastel-de-nata to get me going for the day.
And the rest of the day continued the ‘joy’ theme, beautiful farm paths, sweeping views, my friends the cows, olives and cork.
You’ll encounter several gates to open/close (and maybe leap over). The last 7km was via a pretty bike track.
In Fronteira I stopped for food then asked at the council about the Bombeiros. It’s right out on the edge of town so best to eat in town first. I stayed in a sweet little private unit with ensuite, pristine. (no wifi)

Day 4. May5, Fronteira – Alter do Chao 29km

Stay: Hotel Convento Alter 81eu
Walk: Out of town, the first stage is on an eco trail. Easy walking to Cabeco de Vide where I stopped at the Termas for a coffee. It was still early so I continued on to Alter do Chao.
From the Termas, up the steep hill to the village (no facilities at all) then onto a lovely country track . ..pretty flowers and guess what else??? [cows, olives, cork].
Alter do Chao is a very pretty town boasting a small castle right in the centre, only a 1eu entry and super views of the Alentejo landscape from atop the walls.
I remember a lovely lunch somewhere in town but didn't write down the restaurant name.

Day 5. May6, Alter do Chao – Crato 15km – Alpalhao (taxi 20km)

Stay: CR Alma Nova 120eu (ding ding ding) 245742027
Walk: Here’s where things got tricky. Yesterday I’d tried to book somewhere to stay in Crato, even enlisting the ladies in the Freguesia to assist. Nothing available. Returning to the Hotel, the desk clerk tried again . . . .still no luck. He was able to find one place in Alpalhao, a CR at 120eu - no discount and a strict entry at 2:00pm. Bit of a luxury for a lone pilgrim, huh. *giggles*
Anyhoo, the walk to Crato was on lovely country roads, accompanied from behind the fences by my bell-ringing friends the cows, sheep and horses. There was a final stretch through what seemed a forestry block so much fine powdery dust for quite some kms.
Crato is a pretty village and has several cafes. I really wasn’t up to walking another 20km in the heat so decided to taxi it to my luxury home for the night. One of the cafes on the R of the park ordered me a local ‘taxi’.
CR Alma Nova is a renovated 200-year-old home, modern décor but annoyingly no wifi.
Happily 2 doors away is a wonderful bar/restaurant Regata (with wifi) where I booked a table for dinner. The menu is typical Alentejo style food. Topped off with a complimentary Licor de Folha de Figueira (fig leaf) OMG delicious.
I slept the sleep of a happy pilgrim

Day 6. May7, Alpalhao – Nisa 14km

Stay: Res. Sao Luis 25eu Ph: 245429007
Walk: Early into the walk is a 2km track between granite walls, rough surface and quite overgrown. It was slow going.
Towards the end of this short stage, you encounter a Roman road with many smooth pavers still visible. I love these stretches.
The minute I hit Nisa, I fell in love with this pretty town. Plenty of cafes, great basic accom and plenty of opportunities to soak up pottery and embroidery crafts.
I’m so pleased it was a short walk day as I spent loads of time visiting all the wonderful highlights and wandering the gorgeous lanes and streets.
I just loved the pottery museum, where videos explained the unique method used to painstakingly attach small chips of marble to the uncured pottery.
The ‘felt applique’ of Nisa is also specific to the Alentejo. There are many little shops selling these handmade crafts.
I ate a super duper lunch but did not write down the name. (It’s opposite the Info centre in the park). In contrast, I cannot recommend the bar next to Sao Luis for food.

Day 7. May8, Nisa – Vila Velha de Rodao 21km – Amarelos 14km

Stay: Albergue 8eu ph: 939279039 Sebastian
Walk: Well, a day-of-days as Plan A became Plan B and my first real albergue of the Nascente.
The day began with a farm road then a very steep forest road. The descent to VVdR at 21km was lovely with river views.
This town didn’t give me the ‘vibe’ and I couldn't locate where I’d planned to stay so . . . . pondering options over a café and Pastel de nata, I formulated Plan B to forge on to Amarelos. (Note: no substantial food options in Amarelos, only a bakery which sufficed for 1 night)
After notifying Sebastian of my arrival, I set off on a path that became a little steep in spots but was pretty and quiet..
2km before Amarelos there is a village with coffee and also an Olive museum which I toured, just for kicks and giggles.
Arriving at the albergue accompanied by Sebastian, he told me there were 2 more pilgrims (in a 3-bed albergue!) So I met my second lot of pilgrims on the Nascente. We chatted about experiences so far and we all headed around the corner to the small bakery for a beer/wine and bread & cheese. Very lovely staff.
It was an awesome stay (although the camp beds are a little uncomfy). Make a point of stopping here if you can.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Day 8. May9, Amarelos – Castelo Branco 14km

Stay: Hotel Imperio de Rei, Rua dos Prazeres 46eu
Walk: The walk to CB was quite a nice walk with the now-mandatory ups and downs. There was a track beside the highway and then the railway.
A lovely short day to allow time for several embroidery museum visits (3 of them). I took my time enjoying the creativity and talent of the local artisans. Just meandering and oogling.
I enjoyed a simple lunch at Restaurant Retiro do Cacador near the cathedral.
Later in the afternoon, I met up with my friends from the albergue and we walked up to the castle ending the evening with a Portuguese wine (why not?)

Day 9. May10, Castelo Branco – Povoa de Rio de Moinhos – Castelo Novo 34km

Stay: CR Lagarto Pintado ph 926963545 Pedro (found via the tourist office)
Walk: An early start necessary for a big big day. Lots of varied terrain.
PdRdM a pretty village but there was nowhere to stay. From here a brilliant walk to Soalheira, a seemingly deserted village with traditional 2-storey stone houses. A coffee just off the camino near the Bombeiros and then I continued onward. Finally through farm tracks, cherry trees (travel candy) and on to the final destination walking parallel to the highway.
Castelo Novo is a lovely historic town with loads of history.

Day 10. May11, Castelo Novo – Ferro 33km

Stay: Albergue Parrochial 7.50eu Ph: 964302807 Gilberto, Pres da Junta
Walk: A cold but exhilarating steep track (1.5 hours upward). This is followed by a totally fun 3 hours to Alcongosta for coffee and snack.
Next stop Fundao (a fair sized town), time for another coffee and a visit to the wonderful shop selling handmade craft, right on the camino (RHS main street entering the town).
Remember to grab food here if staying in Ferro. This is a good place to stock up with quite a few small shops.
Next village Valverde – no food options, and the following Pero Viseu where there is only a small shop/bar.
I have to say the terrain today was apocalyptic, strewn with ‘extra-terrestrial’ oversized and perfectly smooth boulders. Sadly, the remains of a burnt forest evidenced by cindered tree stumps completed the eerie feel.
In the cosy Ferro albergue, a small house, I met up with the camino couple from my first day - woop woop company again. We shared food and wine and told stories of our various adventures.

Day 11. May12, Ferro – Belmonte 22km

Stay: Hotel Altitude 45eu with attached restaurant. Eat: Café Monumental, great food
Walk: Sadly, the final day for yummy cherries, but I was pleased to see the start of the vines again.
An easy walking day with several villages for coffee and pasteles.
Be prepared for a couple of stream crossings and a cross country through paddocks with no markings. It’s marked on one of the GPS tracks I used but I have no idea where this track came from.
The final stage up to Belmonte is a bit of a slog uphill but you are rewarded with a happy trot down the meandering narrow streets to the town centre on arrival.
Planning for tomorrow, I tried to book the albergue in Trinta but was advised that it was closed. Boo hoo. Plan B . . .check the GPS, find a route from Belmonte ‘direct’ to Guarda. Tick tick.

Day 12. May13, Belmonte - Guarda 30+km

Stay: Pensao Alicanca 20eu (basic)
Walk: Quite a challenging day requiring strict attention to GPS all the way to Guarda. A rough start, following GPS randomly cross country and on farm tracks, with a stream ford . . . . . then the village of Vela (and of course a coffee).
The next stage around Aldea do Bispo was epic!
A quiet carless road (EM526) winding steeply up a gorge surrounded by those smooth giant boulders again. It was fiercely windy and freezing cold but so stunning and quite a meditative walk. Actually I’d have to say that even though I was effectively ‘off piste’ it was one of my most memorable days on the Nascente. The scenery was rugged and spectacular. Not a car passed me for hours.
Guarda is another pretty village with several bars and restaurants. I met up with the camino couple again and we had a lovely meal at the restaurant located below the Pension. The food was hearty and delicious.

Day 13. May14, Guarda - Celorico da Beira 26km

Stay: Res. Parque 30eu (or was it Hotel California . . .spooky)
Walk: A day of contrasts. The first 7km from Guarda was a magical Roman road, the best preserved I’ve encountered yet. Meandering and zig-zagging downhill at a slope perfect for skipping. A sing song morning.
Aldeia Vicosa is a small village at about the 2 hour mark for a coffee stop. From here a steady climb to several more small villages, none with obvious bars. The random late harvest cherry trees provided bonus travel candy.
In typical camino fashion, the approach to CdB takes a wide u-shaped detour. Finally arrived in the dismal town and even more dismal refuge for the night. It was necessary to phone for someone to come and unlock . . . . I was shown to my room and then the lady left me to it. She was kindly and friendly.
Thankfully my camino friends arrived soon after, and I was not there all alone for the night. The inside handle fell off my room door and I couldn't get out *giggles*.
CdB has no options to eat on a Sunday so it’s backpack foraging. Fortunately a small bar next door to the accommodation was open early in the morning for liquid and sweet sustenance.

Day 14. May15, Celorico da Beira to Trancoso 19km MY FINAL DAY on the Nascente

Stay: Solar Sampaio Melo 85eu (gorgeous renovated stone villa, with a view of plaza)
Walk: A great final day walking on deserted roads, some climbing up a scrubby hill and a visit to the amazing giant balancing stones and sarcophagus site (10 century, supposed)
A village coffee and more climbing up into the clouds.
I spoilt myself and stayed in a luxe CR in a renovated stone Palace home. Giant bed, crisp linen, and tasteful antiques. Most pilgrims stay at Alojamento Dom Denis but I messed up by not pre-booking, and it was booked out.
I met up with my camino travel buddies for a final dinner and a big cheers. They would continue while I took the bus to Porto next day.
Ceremonially, I gently deposited my trusty walking stick at one of the walled gates to the town.

In short summary, the Nascente is a fairly tough solo route requiring a lot of flexibility. GSP tracks are required and an ability to pre-book accommodation (basic Portuguese is handy). The payback is that you really experience ‘country Portugal’. I adored visiting the small town museums and soaking up all the traditional artisan crafts and also younger folk learning long lost skills that are having a revival.

Next up: Camino Torres and Caminho Geira (Sept 2024) completing the Triple.

 

[peregrina2000]

As @wisepilgrim noted on another thread, these caminos do have a small audience. But the value of these posts to those of us who love walking these routes is exponentially greater than the value of my 100th post about bringing hiking poles on the plane.

Since I know you are going to embark soon, I’m busy adding some commentary to my 2022 Torres and Geira threads. I expect you will be able to elaborate on them with more recent commentary, so the circle just keeps on circling!

 

[jungleboy]

Nascente files, Part 1 2021

Here goes!

Preamble
This thread may be a bit late…but I decided it’s now time to post my notes on the ‘Triple’ that Nick and Wendy ‘inaugurated’ here in 2021. Thanks so much to @jungleboy and @Wendy Werneth for your detailed notes and your added encouragement via whatsapp as I navigated the Nascente.

Thanks Grace, you are still the only other person I've had any contact with who has done the Nascente, so it's fun to be able to talk about it with someone!!

Day 1. Aug31, Tavira – Villa Real de Santo Antonio 26km

Nick mentioned a lovely village of Cacela Velha…I was hoping to visit but missed the turnoff.

That's a shame, it's a right turn and short detour.

[TOMORROW planning] After arriving at VRdSA, I attempted to book Almada de Ouro for tomorrow but there was nowhere to stay.
…hatched a cunning plan to walk to a bit further to Alcaria, phone for a taxi back to ARdSA and return to Alcaria by taxi in the morning.

We also had difficulty with accommodation that night as it was Covid times and there seemed to be only one option, which was not open -- Almada de Ouro -- but Anne agreed to open for us.

The Nascente is a caminho of surprises, kinda like a box of chocolates. From one day to the next you never know what you’ll get.

Yes!

The next stage gave us a little hiccup as there was no place to stay in Mesquita (albergue closed or full?) so another plan was hatched . . .
Rosalia kindly organised a taxi to Mesquita meaning a missed stage.

The albergue in Mesquita only has four beds and IIRC was being used to house archeologists during your camino. It really is an important accommodation choice on the Nascente because it's the only one between Alcoutim and Mértola (about 45km) and both those stages are really fabulous, and when we first started to realise that the Nascente was something else. The first stage Alcoutim-Mesquita includes beautiful forest walking overlooking the Guardiana, and the next stage Mesquita-Mértola includes several fascinating (and dying) villages, a great view of Mértola as you approach and then Mértola itself, my favourite town in Portugal.

The locals told us not to take the bridge route as it was ‘broken’ so the longer road option was the alternative way. We must have missed a turn as we ended up on the N122 for 9km into Mertola (there were sporadic arrows). Not fun, lots of traffic and hot hot hot.

My 2021 notes about this bridge:

THE ROAD
There are several options for continuing after Lombardos and the situation can be a bit confusing, so check with César in Mesquita for the latest information. The arrows follow a long circular path that was marked before permission was granted to traverse private property that lies on a more direct path. However, the direct path requires crossing a tricky dam bridge that is only about a foot wide, with no handrails, vegetation obstacles and a potential fall of a few metres. If that doesn’t sound appealing, take the longer way or enquire about a possible third way.

Think about carrying a little bit of food for tomorrow, there’s only a simple bar.

That will be good advice for the next few stages!

Day 5 . Sep4, Mertola - Amendoeira da Serra

Camino synchronicity at work? We arrived on a day of fiesta so the bar was packed inside and out, in full swing.
The entire village (and a busload of visitors) was in attendance for Pulo do Lobo.

Oh fun!

 

[jungleboy]

Day 8. Sep7, Beja – Cuba 20km

Later in the afternoon I found my way to Adega Canena recommended by Nick and Wendy, to see the giant wine amphoras. Another treat . . . so naturally I spent the late afternoon chatting with some elderly locals as they ‘plied’ me with red wine and delicious snacks they’d brought from home. A precious experience. ‘Saude’

Memories!

Day 9. Sep8, Cuba - Alvito 15km

Walk: I took the WP (Wise Pilgrim) route on a quiet farm road between cattle farms. All beasts perfectly harmless, despite the warning signs.

These are the 'Gado Bravo' signs indicating wild/aggressive cattle. We also didn't have any problem with them but were more cautious in this area.

Day 10. Sep9, Alvito – Viana do Alentejo 12km – Aguiar, extra 11km (return Viana by bus)

Because I arrived early in Viana (tomorrows stage to Evora is 36km) I decided to shave a bit off the 36km by walking a bit further today and then returning.

Ahh, the famous 36km day into Évora including 15 consecutive kms on a trafficked road with no shoulder! I think @peregrina2000 posted recently that the camino has been rerouted, thankfully. The Nascente in general has little asphalt walking, but this day was a doozy and it nearly destroyed Wendy.

Stay: Dona Joana (private albergue in her backyard, gorgeous) Book via 961687306, café Central 266743279, try Evora council as last resort 266987186 if these numbers no longer work.

Such an unexpected 'camino spirit' experience!

Joana loves to chat about your camino experiences (in Portuguese only) . . .

Yes she does!

Day 13. Sep13, Sao Miguel de Marchede - Evoramonte 25km

Stay: The Place 65eu Vicki and Mitch 927603884 So lovely, dinner on the terrace overlooking the valley. Luxury rooms and phenomenal food and wine. Do stop here. It’s a very special place on this camino.

The ambiance and stunning views of ‘The Place’ was so fitting to end part 1 of my Caminho Nascente.

Completely agree!

 

[jungleboy]

Day 9. May10, Castelo Branco – Povoa de Rio de Moinhos – Castelo Novo 34km

Castelo Novo is a lovely historic town with loads of history.

Isn't it? It is the first of the three 'Historic villages of Portugal' that this camino passes, and we liked it more than Belmonte, which is more famous. This was also when we realised we had stumbled by complete accident into the most famous cherry region of Portugal right in the middle of peak cherry season, and life hasn't been the same since!

Day 11. May12, Ferro – Belmonte 22km

Planning for tomorrow, I tried to book the albergue in Trinta but was advised that it was closed. Boo hoo.

That's strange as it had only recently opened when we were there just two years earlier.

Day 13. May14, Guarda - Celorico da Beira 26km

Stay: Res. Parque 30eu (or was it Hotel California . . .spooky)
Walk: A day of contrasts. The first 7km from Guarda was a magical Roman road, the best preserved I’ve encountered yet. Meandering and zig-zagging downhill at a slope perfect for skipping. A sing song morning.

We also loved this stretch but evidently forgot to skip and sing!!

In short summary, the Nascente is a fairly tough solo route requiring a lot of flexibility. GSP tracks are required and an ability to pre-book accommodation (basic Portuguese is handy). The payback is that you really experience ‘country Portugal’.

Agree wholeheartedly here. It can be a challenge but what rewards!

Next up: Camino Torres and Caminho Geira (Sept 2024) completing the Triple.

Boa sorte e bom caminho!

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Nick, thanks so much for taking the time to reply and add your comments. I’m hoping that this one and indeed THE TRIPLE takes off in years to come.
I’m Uber excited to be in the planning stages for Torres and Geira. it seems like Geira is also garnering a bit more interest from Camino-ists

 

[peregrina2000]

I have read through all of your comments, Nick, and am very appreciative. I do have the Nascente on my camino wish list, but I wonder if I am being naive in thinking I can leave it till I’m a few more years on because there is so little (relatively) elevation gain. For me, it’s the up up up that is starting to get harder, so I’m thinking that maybe this would be a good one for a really old geezer.

 

[peregrina2000]

Ahh, the famous 36km day into Évora including 15 consecutive kms on a trafficked road with no shoulder! I think @peregrina2000 posted recently that the camino has been rerouted, thankfully.

Yes, I did write that, but it was not based on first hand knowledge and I think what I wrote may be confusing. See this post.

 

[jungleboy]

I have read through all of your comments, Nick, and am very appreciative. I do have the Nascente on my camino wish list, but I wonder if I am being naive in thinking I can leave it till I’m a few more years on because there is so little (relatively) elevation gain. For me, it’s the up up up that is starting to get harder, so I’m thinking that maybe this would be a good one for a really old geezer.

Well you do have a point there in that it is pretty flat, and it's also nowhere near the 'do it now before it gets discovered' stage (an oft-cited Invierno tagline!). But on the other hand there's the 'you never know if your next camino will be your last' possibility. What do you have ahead of the Nascente in your pecking order?

 

[gracethepilgrim]

I have completed the triple now, woop woop
Notes from the Torres and Geira
Grace’s Torres
Grace’s Geira