Safe walking route down to Molinaseca

[Rob Hooks]

On my last Camino I needed to take a taxi down from El Acebo because I injured my knee coming down. Does anyone know if it’s possible to walk beside the road the whole way down? I know it would mean a longer descent down which I’m willing to do to stay safe.

 

[Tincatinker]

The short answer is yes. You've asked if it's possible, which it is. However there are some blind bends with narrow to non-existent verges. The only time I've walked it there was so much snow that there wasn't any traffic. Safety will depend on being very sensitive to traffic and making yourself as conspicuous as possible.

Google Maps Street View will give you an opportunity to walk it from the safety of your PC https://www.google.com/maps/@42.503...=49.55915&pitch=0&thumbfov=100!7i13312!8i6656

 

[FRM]

I found it terrifying, perhaps the most dangerous thing I’ve done on a Camino. I switched from the path because someone I walking with was concerned about falling in the rocks. After about 20 minutes I wished her luck, said a prayer for her, and got back on the trail. Very little room, blind curves, and crazy bicyclists.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Here is a video of bicyclists on the road down to Molinaseca. Start around Cruz de Ferro at 12:00.

Youtube video id: Gq7xb6EP7dM

 

[Marbe2]

It isn’t all that bad if you stay alert, anticipate traffic, when you are heading into a blind curve and simply go to the other side of-the road. Make sure no traffic is coming from behind when you cross, then return to the left side once ( agains the traffic) ) you are able to see ahead again.

There are some spots where there is little room for cars and-you to coexist, so
Stop and see if traffic is coming before you enter those area. For the most part I did not find it to be heavily trafficked in the Fall, Spring and Winter when walking down(3 times) but dnk about the summertime. It has a couple of hairpin turns.

 

[Flog]

It isn’t all that bad if you stay alert, anticipate traffic, when you are heading into a blind curve and simply go to the other side of-the road. Make sure no traffic is coming from behind when you cross, then return to the left side once ( agains the traffic) ) you are able to see ahead again.

There are some spots where there is little room for cars and-you to coexist, so
Stop and see if traffic is coming before you enter those area. For the most part I did not find it to be heavily trafficked in the Fall, Spring and Winter when walking down(3 times) but dnk about the summertime. It has a couple of hairpin turns.

As above: I've taken that option a few times, it's not a busy road, though at weekends you can expect cyclists. It's safe enough if you excercise a bit of common sense:

Be vigilant and don't expect traffic to see you, make it your business to put yourself in out of the way of passing traffic.

Only walk down alone or with someone you can trust to stay in single file with you. Don't be tempted to walk down in a group, that is asking for trouble.

In Spain, by law you are required to wear a high viz when walking on a highway or national road. That might not apply here but wouldn't do any harm. You can pick one up in any china shop or gasolinera for a couple of euros.

It's much easier than clambering down over loose rocks, broken and muddy ground..

 

[RJM]

I was walking with a young couple and the young man had a sore ankle from a couple days before so I walked the roadway with them all the way down. It was a sunny warm day. We were quite cognizant and listening for oncoming motor vehicles. Your ears are as important as your eyes walking along or on a highway, so no headphones recommended. We had no problems and it was much better than the alternative, which is probably my least liked section of the Frances.

 

[peregrina2000]

I know many dislike the descent from El Acebo to Molinaseca. I can’t really remember where the steepest rocky parts on that stage of the camino are, but if you can make it to Riego de Ambrós, there is an absolutely beautiful trail from Riego de Ambrós to Molinaseca. It’s called the Puentes de Malpaso and it is green, quiet, lush and lovely. Wikiloc tracks here, with some nice pictures to show you what I mean. it’s about a km longer than the camino, but it is just gorgeous.

 

[JabbaPapa]

The first part of the road option is fine, but the trail is better than tarmac for the last part of it.

 

[Rob Hooks]

The short answer is yes. You've asked if it's possible, which it is. However there are some blind bends with narrow to non-existent verges. The only time I've walked it there was so much snow that there wasn't any traffic. Safety will depend on being very sensitive to traffic and making yourself as conspicuous as possible.

Google Maps Street View will give you an opportunity to walk it from the safety of your PC https://www.google.com/maps/@42.503641,-6.4616899,3a,75y,180h,90t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1scRixAwFzYvqesxSnSy9d6A!2e0!6shttps://streetviewpixels-pa.googleapis.com/v1/thumbnail?panoid=cRixAwFzYvqesxSnSy9d6A&cb_client=maps_sv.tactile.gps&w=203&h=100&yaw=49.55915&pitch=0&thumbfov=100!7i13312!8i6656

I know many dislike the descent from El Acebo to Molinaseca. I can’t really remember where the steepest rocky parts on that stage of the camino are, but if you can make it to Riego de Ambrós, there is an absolutely beautiful trail from Riego de Ambrós to Molinaseca. It’s called the Puentes de Malpaso and it is green, quiet, lush and lovely. Wikiloc tracks here, with some nice pictures to show you what I mean. it’s about a km longer than the camino, but it is just gorgeous.

Is the Puentes de Malpaso trail sign posted?

 

[pepi]

On my last Camino I needed to take a taxi down from El Acebo because I injured my knee coming down. Does anyone know if it’s possible to walk beside the road the whole way down? I know it would mean a longer descent down which I’m willing to do to stay safe.

Having walked both variants – trail and road – several times, I never became comfortable with either.
In '21, I stopped short in El Acebo (at the fabulous Casa Del Peregrino), because I was to meet with someone the next evening in Ponferrada.
After spending a lazy afternoon, an animated evening, and a peaceful night, I took the trail the next morning and was amazed, at how easy it was to walk this time. With a fresh body and mind, the descent was almost playfully easy.
So I did the same routine last year again. A long lunch in El Acebo, a massage at the Casa Del Peregrino, a beautiful sunset assisted by a good glass of red wine....again the next day's descent had lost all its drama.
I think that part of the problem with this stretch is that people have already spent lot of their stamina on the descent from the Cruz de Ferro to El Acebo.

 

[lt56ny]

It isn’t all that bad if you stay alert, anticipate traffic, when you are heading into a blind curve and simply go to the other side of-the road. Make sure no traffic is coming from behind when you cross, then return to the left side once ( agains the traffic) ) you are able to see ahead again.

There are some spots where there is little room for cars and-you to coexist, so
Stop and see if traffic is coming before you enter those area. For the most part I did not find it to be heavily trafficked in the Fall, Spring and Winter when walking down(3 times) but dnk about the summertime. It has a couple of hairpin turns.

I walked down in this year in late November. It rained pretty hard the whole time. VIrtually everyone was walking on the road as the path was pretty treacherous. Precautions for sure. Turning around alot. Just be aware and when there are sharp curves do what is needed to insure your safety. Take a little extra time.

 

[peregrina2000]

Is the Puentes de Malpaso trail sign posted?

I actually walked this trail from Ponferrada to Riego de Ambrós, which is the opposite direction than Francés pilgrims would be walking. I was not walking the Camino Francés, but rather a 3 day loop from Ponferrada to Peñalba de Santiago, which is one of the most beautiful walks I’ve ever taken. Details here for anyone who has extra time.

But back to the question of signposting. There are signs for the trail, but I had wikiloc tracks on my GPS. I don’t remember that there was any difficulty following the signs but we had the tracks because the following day to Peñalba de Santiago was fairly remote in parts.

There are lots of descriptions of the trail, blogs, etc, that you can find easily on google. I highly recommend it. It continues to Ponferrada if you are going to bypass Molinaseca, but Molinaseca is so pretty I wouldn’t miss it.

 

[lenetheill]

On my last Camino I needed to take a taxi down from El Acebo because I injured my knee coming down. Does anyone know if it’s possible to walk beside the road the whole way down? I know it would mean a longer descent down which I’m willing to do to stay safe.

I agree that it is dangerous. I cannot recommend it. The Camino path is also beautiful, you shouldn't miss it.

 

[Mela143]

I know many dislike the descent from El Acebo to Molinaseca. I can’t really remember where the steepest rocky parts on that stage of the camino are, but if you can make it to Riego de Ambrós, there is an absolutely beautiful trail from Riego de Ambrós to Molinaseca. It’s called the Puentes de Malpaso and it is green, quiet, lush and lovely. Wikiloc tracks here, with some nice pictures to show you what I mean. it’s about a km longer than the camino, but it is just gorgeous.

Thank you for suggesting this alternative. Do you remember any parts of that beautiful trail that may not be wheelchair accessible?

 

[lenetheill]

Thank you for suggesting this alternative. Do you remember any parts of that beautiful trail that may not be wheelchair accessible?

It is not at trail for a wheelchair. Sorry.

 

[DBC]

I know many dislike the descent from El Acebo to Molinaseca. I can’t really remember where the steepest rocky parts on that stage of the camino are, but if you can make it to Riego de Ambrós, there is an absolutely beautiful trail from Riego de Ambrós to Molinaseca. It’s called the Puentes de Malpaso and it is green, quiet, lush and lovely. Wikiloc tracks here, with some nice pictures to show you what I mean. it’s about a km longer than the camino, but it is just gorgeous.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thank you for suggesting this alternative. Do you remember any parts of that beautiful trail that may not be wheelchair accessible?

If you are talking about the Puentes de Malpaso trail, it is absolutely not wheelchair accessible. You should look at some online pictures, there are many on the internet, for some idea of how it goes.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

The Camino path is also beautiful, you shouldn't miss it.

That is exactly how I feel about it and have walked the trail twice. Both the walk to El Acebo and the next morning down to Molinaseca are both beautiful, favorite stretches on the Frances for me, and my memories are vivid.

 

[Marbe2]

If you are talking about the Puentes de Malpaso trail, it is absolutely not wheelchair accessible. You should look at some online pictures, there are many on the internet, for some idea of how it goes.

I would not recommend the road down for wheelchair usage either.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I walk the road all the time, facing traffic.
I have found it easier than the trail.

 

[peregrina2000]

I walk the road all the time, facing traffic.
I have found it easier than the trail.

Annie, you might be a perfect candidate for the Puentes de Malpaso.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Annie, you might be a perfect candidate for the Puentes de Malpaso.

I'd never heard of it!
But now I have to do it!
I googled it. Beautiful photos!
Have you walked it?

 

[Bogong]

I walked it in winte

On my last Camino I needed to take a taxi down from El Acebo because I injured my knee coming down. Does anyone know if it’s possible to walk beside the road the whole way down? I know it would mean a longer descent down which I’m willing to do to stay safe.

r. Cruz de Ferro was one of the few places on my pilgrimage which was “crowded”, maybe half a dozen people. I walked down the track and it was horribly dangerous - Uneven rocky surface, running water, snowdrifts disguising the rocks underneath . Crunching through the snow I fell over countless times. Everyone else I caught up with later, including serial Camino walkers took the road. There was virtually no traffic and at the time was by far the safer option.

De Colores

Bogong

 

[MarkyD]

On my last Camino I needed to take a taxi down from El Acebo because I injured my knee coming down. Does anyone know if it’s possible to walk beside the road the whole way down? I know it would mean a longer descent down which I’m willing to do to stay safe.

Yes, you can. I did just that in 2018. I reckon it's about 3 to 4km longer, but it would me much more forgiving on the knees than the rocky path route. It's still a fair way to go down hill, but there is the small village of Riego de Ambrós on the way down where you can take a break.
I would recommend using walking poles to cushion some of the load on the knees when gping down hill, as well as ensuring backpack weight is not too heavy.

 

[Ellann]

I know many dislike the descent from El Acebo to Molinaseca. I can’t really remember where the steepest rocky parts on that stage of the camino are, but if you can make it to Riego de Ambrós, there is an absolutely beautiful trail from Riego de Ambrós to Molinaseca. It’s called the Puentes de Malpaso and it is green, quiet, lush and lovely. Wikiloc tracks here, with some nice pictures to show you what I mean. it’s about a km longer than the camino, but it is just gorgeous.

Fantastic information and advice, definitely adding this to my itinerary from El Acebo to Ponferrada, anticipating that there will not be too many climatic problems in May.

 

[Mela143]

It is not at trail for a wheelchair. Sorry.

Thank you for letting me know.

 

[Mela143]

If you are talking about the Puentes de Malpaso trail, it is absolutely not wheelchair accessible. You should look at some online pictures, there are many on the internet, for some idea of how it goes.

Thank you for the advice.

 

[Mela143]

I would not recommend the road down for wheelchair usage either.

Thank you for this validation.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I was not walking the Camino Francés, but rather a 3 day loop from Ponferrada to Peñalba de Santiago, which is one of the most beautiful walks I’ve ever taken. Details here for anyone who has extra time.

Laurie, I have read your link in the past on walking to Penalba because I could see it in the far distance on the way to El Acebo and it intrigued me.
I have a question out of curiosity. Do you know if there is a way to cut over from the Sanabres to Penalba, then head up to Ponferrada, or turn back to finish the Sanabres? If there is no decent waymarking, it would be too difficult for me as I am definitely not an adventurous trailblazer.

 

[peregrina2000]

Do you know if there is a way to cut over from the Sanabres to Penalba, then head up to Ponferrada, or turn back to finish the Sanabres?

I had to look at a map to see the relationship. Peñalba is about 75 km from Puebla de Sanabria, which I chose as a random stop on the Sanabrés that is kind of south of Peñalba. Mombuey is also about 75 km south, so this would be a pretty substantial detour even in the best of circumstances. A quick wikiloc search doesn’t pull anything up. Looks like you could go on minor roads, but that’s not an ideal way to see this part of Spain. Unless someone has seen any other options, I would say that a detour from the Sanabrés is complicated, while a detour from the Francés is easy and well worth it.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Laurie, I appreciate you checking it out...now one more question. The Invierno starts in Ponferrada, so how about starting there, looping down to Penalba and circling back to Ponferrada to walk the Invierno? That "sounds" doeable. I am interested in about a 4ish week walk. These are new thoughts for me.
My plan has been to finish the Norte from Oviedo and walk on to Muxia, but if a majority is in woods and eucalyptus forests, I think I would rather do a different route.

 

[peregrina2000]

I'd never heard of it!
But now I have to do it!
I googled it. Beautiful photos!
Have you walked it?

Yes, I walked it “backwards” when I went from Ponferrada to El Acebo, El Acebo to Peñalba de Santiago, and Peñalba de Santiago to Ponferrada. This was a little loop I did with @Rebekah Scott several years ago and it was a five star three day walk. Details here.

 

[peregrina2000]

The Invierno starts in Ponferrada, so how about starting there, looping down to Penalba and circling back to Ponferrada to walk the Invierno? That "sounds" doeable.

Totally do-able. Start in Ponferrada. Three days in a circle ending back in Ponferrada, then the Invierno. But that’s not going to get you to 4-ish weeks, I don’t think. The one wrinkle is that the lodging that there used to be in Peñalba de Santiago, where Reb and I slept, is no longer available. She closed it. There are other options but they are expensive and hard to find.

Several years ago, when I walked to Peñalba (this time directly from Ponferrada rather than doing the loop), I had planned to continue from Peñalba to Las Médulas, on the Invierno. But I had a GPS ,meltdown and couldn’t get the tracks. No way was I going to try that stretch without tracks. So I had to go back to Ponferrada. I wound up taking the tour of the church and just asking the other people in the little group if anyone was heading back to Ponferrada, and got a ride back. The next day I started the Invierno from Ponferrada. I still want to walk Peñalba to Las Médulas, but now that the Albergue La Masera is closed in Peñalba, it gets more complicated.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Thank you, once again, Laurie for some more details. If I end up changing plans, I will let you know.

 

[trecile]

I checked on Mapy.cz and found the Puentes de Malpaso route.
It's the gold line that crosses the river in this picture. The Camino is the dark blue line.

 

[isawtman]

You knew this was coming. Here is my video of it.

My main problem with it is that I did the part coming
down from Riego de Ambros in the morning darkness.
I also was lulled into complacency because the gravel
road coming into Riego de Ambros is easy walking.
I thought it would be easy walking on the way out of
town, but it was hell on wheels. All you have to do
is to take it slow. It wasn't really that much of a problem
that I would take a road. But that's me. I've done a lot
of backpacking in the U.S. so I may have a different
view of it.

 

[mimpete]

Annie, you might be a perfect candidate for the Puentes de Malpaso.

Hi Peregrina 2000,
4 of us are continuing our 12 year Camino from Mont St Michel to Santiago de Compostella Wednesday 15th May. 1 week at a time!
I have downloaded and subscribed to Wikiloc using your link, for the Malpaso route.It looks like it is going to be raining. Is it still safe in wet conditions?The route does look beautiful!

 

[WalkingLester]

I just walked this Dos Puentes del Malpaso route from Riego to Molinaseca in late March 2024. We are in our 60s. I have walked many different Caminos. My partner was only on her second. We have some arthritis in the legs. My partner is moderately limited in her walking capacity by the arthritis. It did start to rain about 45 minutes into our walk on this section. The rain definitely made it harder for fear of slipping and falling although we managed to stay upright.
The walk is entirely in the woods. There are no roads to bail out on. For long periods we had no cell signal (Vodafone). You won’t be able to call a taxi.
Somewhere the walk was described as moderate in difficulty. We found it very hard. There are sections where one false step to the right will send you falling down the mountainside. We were scrambling on our hands a fair amount. There is one section where you have to traverse a sheer rock face. This was difficult and dangerous for us. Possibly this section would be easier coming from Molinaseca.
Admittedly, we took a relaxed walk from El Acebo to Riego, and then a long bar stop, then we stopped to look at a lot of things on the Malpass trail before we realized we were in it up to our necks!! . We made it into Molinaseca at sunset!
The hike is indeed beautiful. The puentes were magnificent. But, in my opinion, this is a real hikers trail not really a Camino trail. Other peoples opinions might differ but I base this on having walked the following Caminos, some several times; Frances, Norte, Primitivo, Aragonés, Catalan, and Finisterre/Muxia.
So if you are reasonably fit and experienced this is a great trail. But I think it’s not really a substitute for the normal Camino path.
However to your question, in the first 30 minutes, the initial path in the rain will be very muddy and wet with standing/running water but if we made you can too. There is a small arroyo to ford early on. The difficulty will depend on how much rain has been falling. It was about 6 feet wide for us and we crossed in sandals and put on socks and shoes again on the other side. The path is almost entirely strewn with loose rock so rain will make it more tricky.
I would love to hear what others thought of this alternative.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I would love to hear what others thought of this alternative.

I haven't but I thank you for your report. If I do walk the CF again I may still take this trail but now knowing that it may make me wish I was still in my backpacking years.

 

[WalkingLester]

Hi Peregrina 2000,
4 of us are continuing our 12 year Camino from Mont St Michel to Santiago de Compostella Wednesday 15th May. 1 week at a time!
I have downloaded and subscribed to Wikiloc using your link, for the Malpaso route.It looks like it is going to be raining. Is it still safe in wet conditions?The route does look beautiful!

We used mapy.cz. It was easy to follow

 

[mimpete]

Thank you for the advice Walking lester. I found Zubiri and Alto Perdon very taxing, so maybe a trip to Molinesca taking the road will be more suitable for me!!!

 

[peregrina2000]

I just walked this Dos Puentes del Malpaso route from Riego to Molinaseca in late March 2024. We are in our 60s. I have walked many different Caminos. My partner was only on her second. We have some arthritis in the legs. My partner is moderately limited in her walking capacity by the arthritis. It did start to rain about 45 minutes into our walk on this section. The rain definitely made it harder for fear of slipping and falling although we managed to stay upright.
The walk is entirely in the woods. There are no roads to bail out on. For long periods we had no cell signal (Vodafone). You won’t be able to call a taxi.
Somewhere the walk was described as moderate in difficulty. We found it very hard. There are sections where one false step to the right will send you falling down the mountainside. We were scrambling on our hands a fair amount. There is one section where you have to traverse a sheer rock face. This was difficult and dangerous for us. Possibly this section would be easier coming from Molinaseca.
Admittedly, we took a relaxed walk from El Acebo to Riego, and then a long bar stop, then we stopped to look at a lot of things on the Malpass trail before we realized we were in it up to our necks!! . We made it into Molinaseca at sunset!
The hike is indeed beautiful. The puentes were magnificent. But, in my opinion, this is a real hikers trail not really a Camino trail. Other peoples opinions might differ but I base this on having walked the following Caminos, some several times; Frances, Norte, Primitivo, Aragonés, Catalan, and Finisterre/Muxia.
So if you are reasonably fit and experienced this is a great trail. But I think it’s not really a substitute for the normal Camino path.
However to your question, in the first 30 minutes, the initial path in the rain will be very muddy and wet with standing/running water but if we made you can too. There is a small arroyo to ford early on. The difficulty will depend on how much rain has been falling. It was about 6 feet wide for us and we crossed in sandals and put on socks and shoes again on the other side. The path is almost entirely strewn with loose rock so rain will make it more tricky.
I would love to hear what others thought of this alternative.

Wow, I am very surprised to hear that report. Rebekah and I did walk the route “backwards” from Ponferrada up to Riego, but I don’t think that the difference in direction could make that much difference. I walked this route about ten years ago without problem when I was in my mid 60s, just like you. I don’t doubt what you say, but I have no memory of anything resembling a sheer rock face.

Here Is link to a recent blog post that has a lot of pictures. Maybe that will help others decide.

 

[WalkingLester]

Wow, I am very surprised to hear that report. Rebekah and I did walk the route “backwards” from Ponferrada up to Riego, but I don’t think that the difference in direction could make that much difference. I walked this route about ten years ago without problem when I was in my mid 60s, just like you. I don’t doubt what you say, but I have no memory of anything resembling a sheer rock face.

Here Is link to a recent blog post that has a lot of pictures. Maybe that will help others decide.

Maybe there were a lot of factors specific to our experience that made it challenging for us. One factor was that we let time get away from us and we had to rush to finish before dark. Another was the rain (and cold), which definitely made it more difficult. Additionally my partner does have some trouble with her knees and that made it harder for us. I recognize the places in the pictures in the link but also I remember steeper, narrower, rockier sections.
I appreciate that others may have a better time of it. It is indeed a beautiful path. Thank you for posting it.
I would like to add that I have had some sublime walks on the coastal Norte variants you have listed on this forum. Thank you for those. Buen camino todos!

 

[peregrina2000]

Maybe there were a lot of factors specific to our experience that made it challenging for us. One factor was that we let time get away from us and we had to rush to finish before dark. Another was the rain (and cold), which definitely made it more difficult. Additionally my partner does have some trouble with her knees and that made it harder for us. I recognize the places in the pictures in the link but also I remember steeper, narrower, rockier sections.
I appreciate that others may have a better time of it. It is indeed a beautiful path. Thank you for posting it.
I would like to add that I have had some sublime walks on the coastal Norte variants you have listed on this forum. Thank you for those. Buen camino todos!

I really think it’s important for people to relate their experiences. Like you say, so many different factors have a bearing on any particular walk on any particular day. It’s tremendously helpful for other people to hear a range of opinions, so that they can make their own decisions. I am glad you made it in one piece!

 

[mimpete]

I will be thinking of Rebekah this week. She very kindly cycled to Ledigos to retrieve my Rosary, two years ago. I had left it in Ledigos. It belonged to a favourite Aunt of mine. She then posted it to my home in South Wales U.K. I won't ever forget that!