- Time of past OR future Camino
- some and then more. see my signature.
Last week two friends and I walked the Camino Inglés together.
For them a first Camino.Seeing we were all restricted in time I prebooked all our rooms.Good thing I did because it was very busy.
It was my third Inglés and I was overwhelmed by the groups that passed . Of course this was a summer Camino.
And the weird thing is that when you let the groups pass , it gets so quiet again.
In Naron we took the footpath ( pasarela ) next to the railway making the first day doable for us. 24 kilometers instead of 30 .
And we were not the only ones to take that route. This way we bypassed Neda. The pasarela ends at the trainstation of Neda and from there on you are back on the regular route.
Then it became a bit complicated : Brierley mentions the regular route ( yellow ) and the green one ( next to the beaches of Cabanas ) and an alternativo ( in the book a grey one ).
But at the crossroad after Vilar do Colo the local amigos have placed two mojones : one for the yellow normal route . And what we thought was the alternativo ( in the guide the grey one but on the explanation board it was green ).
So the Alternativo is in fact the very hard and steep one going through a forest and then steep back down. Lesson well learnt. So we did not see any beach until we were practically in Pontedeume. I was raving to my friends how nice those beaches were but on the other hand we were more than happy to have reached our destination. The Alternativo also doubles the distance and the height compared with the two other routes.
Rain on and off did not help for our mood. Just keep walking!
Pension/ Bar Luis was as always simple but charming though my friends had a room at the front and a local party of youngsters went on until four in the morning.
It is indeed a cultural thing I believe that Spaniards do not consider noise as a " general nuisance".
The steep ascent out of Pontedeume is quite something. Important to pace oneself and keep checking your breath.
Drink enough , even if you do not feel thirsty or if you think it is not that hot.
In Miño we took a longer break, seeing it was raining cats and dogs.
I do like the walk into Betanzos with the gorgeous church of San Martin de Tiobre.
In Betanzos we stayed at quiet hotel Garelos where we had a big room with three individual beds.
Not much need and energy left for sightseeing so after showering we went to a café.
Then the etapa to Hospital de Bruma which is indeed the hardest one of the Inglés due to the steep hills.
Luckily a dry day. Not many options to stop so make use of them to take a break when you feel you need it.
Here we saw what a difference it makes when people send their packs forward. I took us so much longer to walk than those with a lightweight daypack. But we made it.
Very new is the picknick / public swimming pool spot at Encorro de Beche. There is a small stall ( drinks and fries ).Basic catering for the swimmers. Attendance and service very rude and then we saw a much nicer restaurant cafeteria just behind the first place ( rather hidden if you come from the path ). So we went to that place and our faith in the nice Spaniards was again restored.
We took a longer stop again at famous Casa Avelina before tackling the two kilometers into Meson do Vento.
Hotel Canaima is decent and quiet.We had a family room. Next to a petrolstation. The shutters kept out all the noise.
Next day to Sigueiro. In distance the longest day. Two of us were nurturing a blister. One friend under her foot, on the flat.I on the top of my little toe.
So we told our other friend to keep her pace and she went on.
The last seven k.were quite difficult for us, on a foothpath next to the AP-9.
In Sigueiro we had two private rooms at private albergue Camino Real.Very nice staff.
Last day walking into Santiago is quite straightforward.We started at eight , took some breaks and arrived at one on the spot in front of the cathedral.
Aside from the Portugues in 2015 this was my first summer Camino and I was overwhelmed by the amount of people. Lines to enter the cathedral too. So went early in the morning to pay a visit and our respect.
In another thread I already posted about the swift organisation of the Oficina de Peregrinos. I would have preferred a more personal reception but I understand that it is not possible with the numbers of pilgrims. And I am aware that I myself contribute to these numbers.
In general : lots of groups from Spain and also couples. We saw only four individual walkers . On our Inglés backpacks were in the minority.Not wanting to start another debate here about pro and contra forwarding luggage but for a first time I felt that the " daypackers " thought we were an oddity while twelve years ago I would thought the same of them.
Will I walk the Inglés again? Most probably not. Three times is enough.
Is it a gorgeous Camino? I do think so. Do try to walk it in a less busier season. Whatever season, there will be rain.
For my friends it was their first Camino and I am very happy and proud they made it.
Walking together has its challenges but it was worth it.
For those who are interested in the food and restaurants en route I will write down my suggestions later.
For them a first Camino.Seeing we were all restricted in time I prebooked all our rooms.Good thing I did because it was very busy.
It was my third Inglés and I was overwhelmed by the groups that passed . Of course this was a summer Camino.
And the weird thing is that when you let the groups pass , it gets so quiet again.
In Naron we took the footpath ( pasarela ) next to the railway making the first day doable for us. 24 kilometers instead of 30 .
And we were not the only ones to take that route. This way we bypassed Neda. The pasarela ends at the trainstation of Neda and from there on you are back on the regular route.
Then it became a bit complicated : Brierley mentions the regular route ( yellow ) and the green one ( next to the beaches of Cabanas ) and an alternativo ( in the book a grey one ).
But at the crossroad after Vilar do Colo the local amigos have placed two mojones : one for the yellow normal route . And what we thought was the alternativo ( in the guide the grey one but on the explanation board it was green ).
So the Alternativo is in fact the very hard and steep one going through a forest and then steep back down. Lesson well learnt. So we did not see any beach until we were practically in Pontedeume. I was raving to my friends how nice those beaches were but on the other hand we were more than happy to have reached our destination. The Alternativo also doubles the distance and the height compared with the two other routes.
Rain on and off did not help for our mood. Just keep walking!
Pension/ Bar Luis was as always simple but charming though my friends had a room at the front and a local party of youngsters went on until four in the morning.
It is indeed a cultural thing I believe that Spaniards do not consider noise as a " general nuisance".
The steep ascent out of Pontedeume is quite something. Important to pace oneself and keep checking your breath.
Drink enough , even if you do not feel thirsty or if you think it is not that hot.
In Miño we took a longer break, seeing it was raining cats and dogs.
I do like the walk into Betanzos with the gorgeous church of San Martin de Tiobre.
In Betanzos we stayed at quiet hotel Garelos where we had a big room with three individual beds.
Not much need and energy left for sightseeing so after showering we went to a café.
Then the etapa to Hospital de Bruma which is indeed the hardest one of the Inglés due to the steep hills.
Luckily a dry day. Not many options to stop so make use of them to take a break when you feel you need it.
Here we saw what a difference it makes when people send their packs forward. I took us so much longer to walk than those with a lightweight daypack. But we made it.
Very new is the picknick / public swimming pool spot at Encorro de Beche. There is a small stall ( drinks and fries ).Basic catering for the swimmers. Attendance and service very rude and then we saw a much nicer restaurant cafeteria just behind the first place ( rather hidden if you come from the path ). So we went to that place and our faith in the nice Spaniards was again restored.
We took a longer stop again at famous Casa Avelina before tackling the two kilometers into Meson do Vento.
Hotel Canaima is decent and quiet.We had a family room. Next to a petrolstation. The shutters kept out all the noise.
Next day to Sigueiro. In distance the longest day. Two of us were nurturing a blister. One friend under her foot, on the flat.I on the top of my little toe.
So we told our other friend to keep her pace and she went on.
The last seven k.were quite difficult for us, on a foothpath next to the AP-9.
In Sigueiro we had two private rooms at private albergue Camino Real.Very nice staff.
Last day walking into Santiago is quite straightforward.We started at eight , took some breaks and arrived at one on the spot in front of the cathedral.
Aside from the Portugues in 2015 this was my first summer Camino and I was overwhelmed by the amount of people. Lines to enter the cathedral too. So went early in the morning to pay a visit and our respect.
In another thread I already posted about the swift organisation of the Oficina de Peregrinos. I would have preferred a more personal reception but I understand that it is not possible with the numbers of pilgrims. And I am aware that I myself contribute to these numbers.
In general : lots of groups from Spain and also couples. We saw only four individual walkers . On our Inglés backpacks were in the minority.Not wanting to start another debate here about pro and contra forwarding luggage but for a first time I felt that the " daypackers " thought we were an oddity while twelve years ago I would thought the same of them.
Will I walk the Inglés again? Most probably not. Three times is enough.
Is it a gorgeous Camino? I do think so. Do try to walk it in a less busier season. Whatever season, there will be rain.
For my friends it was their first Camino and I am very happy and proud they made it.
Walking together has its challenges but it was worth it.
For those who are interested in the food and restaurants en route I will write down my suggestions later.
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