LIVE from the Camino Camino de Sagunto

[filly]

My trail so far is now on Wikiloc.

 

[filly]

Hostal Brin on N234 BEFORE Monreal del Campo. At Euros 31.50 it is good value but out of town…

Large room with two Queen beds. Very quiet. Functional bar/restaurant best avoided.

On the fun side… a stream of cars and ‘likely lads’ streamed past as from 9pm to the nearby MR Dance Club! No noise resulted.

Today is an easy day at about 18 kms to Calamocha.

It’s Monday - delighted to have navigated the Sunday food issue. NO open shop seen yesterday.

Went to my first Dia of the trip in Cella. Note opening hours.

 

[filly]

Monreal del Campo

A real cereal centre. Flat way. No marking. Some VTT and Camino del Cid indications.

All services but no visible accommodation except the Molino Bassano on the way out which looked firmly closed.

Banks/farmacia/launderette/bars

Had great tostada with added jamon to get me going con cafe con leche y vaso de agua.



Vermouth is becoming a big thing. A lovely Vermoutheria in Albarracin with a ‘casera’ offering

 

[filly]

Lovely church with campanile up the hill. Apparently part of the old castle hence detached.

Too early for the saffron museum..

 

[filly]

 

[filly]

Previous post shows:

- well placed benches en route
- Molino Basso hostal
- Torrijo del Camino bar/farmacia/bank
- roadside GR marking
- VTT Camino del Cid marking which would have taken me on the old railway track

 

[filly]

Torrijo has a good bar with a great view on to the spectacular church.

Amazing baroque entrance with volutes, deep carving and notable entarsis onfluted columns.

The brick belltower is gorgeous; visible from miles away and charmingly slightly wonky.

 

[filly]

ps The Camino de Sagunto book is noteworthy for its very good binding, ample photographs, maps and historical detail.

It does NOT deal with bars/banks/pharmacies/bus and rail connections etc.

A very good ‘aide memoire’. I strongly recommend.

 

[VNwalking]

Gah, Baroque.
But the wonky bell tower, that sounds lovely.
Glad you're getting fed, Filly, on a Monday!

 

[filly]

Hey.. Sunday’s often the problem later in the day.

Fab stop in Fuentes Claras where there is a good looking hostal. I asked about rooms - not sure if there is space. Therefore I do recommend booking ahead if you venture on this Camino.

Much more verdant; very rich soil = very ornate and larger churches.

A little more shade. Flechas amarillas suddenly reappeared as well as GR(red ‘n white stripes).

Sid’s Way though is the predominant.

This is my boots in the sun/cerveza/wait for lunch stop! Only 7 kms to Calamocha. A breeze helps and the temperature is down somewhat.

A great day so far… so lovely to see the spires way ahead. The one here reminds me of Flanders fields.

 

[filly]

I decided that the granny landlady/cook was less convincing (at Fuentas Claras) when she announced that there was no ‘menu del dia’ so I soldiered on to a promising hostelry on 5 kms further on the outskirts of Calamocha. Actually cheapest cerveza to date at Euro 1 for a caña!

It meant giving El Poyo del Cid a miss but I did see the Lavandero up close and the church from a distance. The reason was that the bar was closed on a Monday..

Mariano Bar and Restaurante on the N234 also accommodates and was positively heaving by the time I was eating.

I am staying up the road at Hotel Lazaro.

This town is both on the autovia and National road hence ‘viberous’.

Food excellent but mainly pork - which I never eat in the UK. Here, it is the main fare as exemplified by the odorous countryside of the last few days!

 

[filly]

Filly's Hotel Lists on this Camino

------
16/5-17/5 Sot de Ferrer (Hostal Millán)
17/5-18/5 Viver (Apartamento Rural La Plaza Vieja)
18/5-19/5 El Toro (Hotel Rural Los Abriles)
19/5-20/5 Manzanera (Hotel Duque de Calabria)
20/5-21/5 La Puebla de Valverde (Hotel La Fonda de la Estación)
21/5-23/5 Teruel (Hotel Civera)
23/5-25/5 Albarracín (Albergue Albarracín)
25/5-26/5 Cella (Albergue Municipal=Albergue El Río)
26/5-27/5 Monreal del Campo (Hostal Brin)
27/5-28/5 Calamocha (Hotel Lázaro)
28/5-29/5 Daroca (Hotel Cienbalcones)
29/5-30/5 Villafeliche (Hostal Sara)
30/5-31/5 Calatayud (Hotel Monasterio Benedictino)
31/5-02/6 Malanquilla (Hostal Boutique Malanquilla Inedita)
02/6-03/6 Tejado (Hotel Rural El Vielp Entejado)
03/6-05/6 Soria (Hosteria Solar de Tejada)
------

I am most grateful for this piece of work! It even helps me rather than working from a scrappy piece of paper.

I spend hours poring over maps months ahead; then get rather hot and bothered; once ‘on the road’ the legs take over and the Spirit of the Camino. Legs fine so far; 40 kms at 72 no issue; I have been blessed with the weathet.

Once underway, I tend to ‘wing’ it and certainly vote with my legs - quite happy to return to a favoured stop.

So there are winners and losers. Now over halfway but with the ‘impossible’ to achieve (Calatayud to Soria) I am already somewhat saddened to be on the homeward s t r e t c h!

Yum time con cafe con leche!

 

[filly]

Safely ensconced into my single bedroom located quietly to the rear as requested. Fetching ‘rosa’ bathroom suite, with bidet and what my mother called a ‘sitzbad’. My handy plug allowed washing of clothes and bathtime luxury.

Perfect hanging arrangement over said bath; window ledge ideal for airing of Merrell ankle boots with memory foam insoles.

The delights of the ‘centro urbana’ await and are located nearby.

Spoilt for choice on accommodation front!

Glamorous bus station to boot!

 

[peregrina2000]

My Spanish is not good enough but maybe others inc @peregrina2000 will contact them.

I did contact them and just received a very helpful reply. The document I have attached has some accommodation information. It was compiled by a recent pilgrim, and has some entries I don’t understand, but it has some good info.

And I got some specific information about the route after Calatayud, which is where Alan Sykes turned off, and where Filly is going to go off route to sleep.

1. In Cervera de la Cañada, there is a municipal albergue, Calle José Romero 2.

2. In Reznos, a Dutch couple offers hospitality to pilgrims.

3. En Almenar there is a pensión but it is usually filled with workers. But if you call the Ayuntamiento, they frequently help pilgrims out. 975 390 067

This probably won't help you out, Filly, but I thought I'd add it to this thread since anyone on the forum who is going to walk the Sagunto will undoubtedly read your thread.

 

[filly]

I did contact them and just received a very helpful reply. The document I have attached has some accommodation information. It was compiled by a recent pilgrim, and has some entries I don’t understand, but it has some good info.

And I got some specific information about the route after Calatayud, which is where Alan Sykes turned off, and where Filly is going to go off route to sleep.

1. In Cervera de la Cañada, there is a municipal albergue, Calle José Romero 2.

2. In Reznos, a Dutch couple offers hospitality to pilgrims.

3. En Almenar there is a pensión but it is usually filled with workers. But if you call the Ayuntamiento, they frequently help pilgrims out. 975 390 067

This probably won't help you out, Filly, but I thought I'd add it to this thread since anyone on the forum who is going to walk the Sagunto will undoubtedly read your thread.

Thank you very much indeed for looking in to this. It is a real start to a fruitful resource.

I will try to suss out 1 and 2.

With regards to 3. Almenar, I am sorry to say that hitherto I have been unable to make contact with the Ayuntamiento. I have asked various tourist offices to call on my behalf… also with no luck. Hence my extra 12kms each way for accommodation in Tejado (though it does look very nice!) With luck, I will pass by the hostel.

I have also tried to contact the hostel in Cervera de la Cañada… so far no luck.

However, I recall having spotted something in Aniñon, though it makes for rather a short etapa.

Malanquilla was all i could actually BOOK and manage from Calayatud. There is a restaurant nearby. I am staying two nights as a treat and to read the new Coim Toibin book (Long Island). The place gets excellent reviews. I have now booked online onward transport from Soria to Logroño; after a Camino hostel onwards to Bilbao.

I have hit perfect weather as it now ‘roasting’ in the south and inordinately cool in the north. About max 28 Celsius today.

 

[filly]

I did the rounds of Calamocha ‘ville’. Everything is here inc a train station on the N234. A mega Dia.

I had hoped to eat at either Maria’s or El Rincon de Luis - the former closed on Monday and the latter only open at weekends!

The centre is rather restrained after the bustle of the N234. A peaceful park and Jiloca river path with the Puente Romano as a highlight.

Lovely west end doorway of the iglesia parroquial.

 

[filly]

I should add that this is a moneyed locale. There are some very good individual, innovative houses around the park area.

The odd one had a touch of ‘Mon Oncle’ about it! (… don’t ask if you don’t get it!)

 

[filly]

I have just done some more research on the Albergue in Cervera de la Cañada and attach a Google review…

I booked my route due to the uncertainty, seconded by Alan Sykes aborting his own attempt and locating the via Kunig as an alternative.

 

[filly]

Aniñon does produce a possibility! Please see attached.

 

[filly]

At Luco de Jiloca.

Teleclub Bar is open… and has sidra on tap! Nothing to eat however..

Only one flecha noted on leaving Calamocha.

A hot, humid day. I soon opted for the railway/cycling track. Trees lining the route on both sides, the river meandering by. Sensational bird song and scents.

 

[filly]

 

[AlanSykes]

I loved Daroca. My bedroom had two of the balconies of the Cienbalcones Hotel. The menú there included a really succulent slow cooked lamb shank, excellently paired with a delicious DOC Borja red. I enjoyed ambling around the town walls and the surrounding hillside. Also the 14th century Palacio de los Lunas, built for Pope (or anti-pope) Benedict XIII (”il papa Luna”).

 

[NeroHama]

View attachment 171424View attachment 171425View attachment 171426View attachment 171427View attachment 171428View attachment 171429View attachment 171430View attachment 171431View attachment 171432

This is my boots in the sun/cerveza/wait for lunch stop! Only 7 kms to Calamocha. A breeze helps and the temperature is down somewhat.

Where are your boots?
I've been looking for them for a while and I can't find them.
Am I the only one who can't see them?

 

[JLWV]

I have also answered tracks question. Check me deario!

the APP ''Mapas de España" of the IGN also includes those tracks

 

[filly]

Made it to Soria! The concatedral San Piedro is closed for repairs but I just put on a hardhat and sauntered in!

My tracks are not for the fainthearted!

Calaytud to Malanquilla was very demanding and long. Thereafter there were no bars/restaurants en route and NO TIENDAS. There was food in Malanquilla and nothing before Tejado where the accommodation prepared dinner and included breakfast and after that nothing before Valcorba. I was able to order a bocadillo on two occasions and otherwise just lost weight!

I would highly recommend anyone undertaking this course from Calayatud to Soria to check:

- Ruta Manubles from Ateca to Torrelapaja

- Vera’s Cruise aka Camino de la Vera Cruz

- Sid’s Way aka Camino del Cid

- GR with red/white marking

- local hikes with yellow/white marking

- Sendero Santander-Mediterraneo for the Via Verde on disaffected railway lines

I am just so pleased I made it!

Laurie’s offer of a village distance chart made no sense when the Camino bypasses most. You have to off-track to admire the churches within villages which now offer NO services..

All best. Thanks to y’all for your encouragement, concern and support.

Ultreia y sosteia!

Over and out. FINIS

 

[VNwalking]

Well done!!

Calaytud to Malanquilla was very demanding and long. Thereafter there were no bars/restaurants en route and NO TIENDAS. There was food in Malanquilla and nothing before Tejado where the accommodation prepared dinner and included breakfast and after that nothing before Valcorba. I was able to order a bocadillo on two occasions and otherwise just lost weight!

So, your stages and distances were...?
Calaytud to Malanquilla;
Malanquilla to Tejado;
Tejado to Valcorba
Valcorba to Soria?
Or??

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@filly , well done and as always, thanks for posting!

 

[filly]

Friday - Calatayud to Malanquilla. I did NOT go to Aniñon which is apparently larger than Cervera de la Canada (which was the last place for food/drink until 2 kms before Malanquilla at the Venta bar on the N234 which used to do rooms and closed early after serving me!). Unless you specifically want to stay in ‘quirky’ hotel boutique Malanquilla (bar/restaurant 100 metres away and allied to hotel boutique) I would recommend looking at alternatives.

I THINK there should be something in Cervera de la Cañada.. the Mayor in the Ayuntamiento was rather unforthcoming, though the Secretary ultimately stamped my Credencial. You could then do Bijuesca. Lots of ups and downs and nothing en route.

Bijuesca down by the river has a Casas Rural but you would need to organise food… That is on the official camino and is supposed to be lovely.

You could then go to Reznos. (The Dutch couple..) I learnt from the host at Tejado that Rexnos was a stop for cyclists as was Tejado. Most cyclists ride 100 kms per day and this is part of their route, using the Via Verde when available as it is not complete but in sections.

Sunday - Malanquilla to Tejado (quiet traffic and a 7 am start enabled me to hike on the N234. I could have gone ‘round’ more northwards on the A-1503 to reach Ciria and the start of the Via Verde railway track. Nothing available all day. One water point only.

Monday - Tejado to Soria: a fairly level day with nothing en route but gorgeous with many extraordinary vultures high in the sky. The Via Verde stops suddenly at Valcorba. I had hiked really fast with an 8 am start. Tejado included a good breakfast (you could eat dinner and order a picnic lunch - not great value…)

I took a long lunch/TV break at the SECOND truckers (Euros 13 for excellent fare including beverages) and then went on to Soria (initially on a fairly hairy descent back to the railway tracks… and then side road to the outskirts of Soria where I picked up yellow/white markers for Duero riverside suspended pathway).

The ‘concatedral’ San Pedro was the goal with its cloister but closed for renovation.

My Credencial was stamped at the Iglesia de Santa Maria on the edge of the Plaza Mayor.

I HIGHLY recommend before sunset heading up the many steps to the PARADOR in the old castle (?) walls for a great view of where you have hiked from and Soria. The bar area has a lovely view and quite affordable. The ‘à la carte only’ restaurant has the view over Soria.

It has been such a varied walk northwards with increasingly wide open peaceful vistas. I have engaged with Spaniards, who often speak with very different accents, a few Dutch, met only one non-religious short-distance hiker going in the opposite direction and about 40 cyclists all told…. and I am certainly that much FITTER!

I trust this helps VNwalking..

 

[filly]

Distances:

Friday - 49 kms

Sunday - 38 kms

Monday - 35 kms

 

[VNwalking]

I trust this helps VNwalking..

Perfecto! Gracias, @filly.
I have to say...your distances are impressive. No wonder you feel so chuffed to have made it.

 

[NeroHama]

@filly, Well done!!!
So glad to see your post and the news of your completion. ( inc. your smile )

 

[filly]

 

[filly]

…. and finally, thanks to @peregrina2000 for recommending SORIA as a destination. Delightful place, full of interest, pedestrianised centre, lovely park and my first storks!

 

[filly]

ps

Fav resto in Bilbao:



Fav place to stay:

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks for all your posts, Filly, they will be helpful for the next forum member who decides to strike out on the Sagunto. I will admit those long stages are a real disincentive for me and my aging body, and I am extremely impressed that you seemed to sail right through some extremely long stages.

 

[filly]

pps

back to fav resto for dinner! (reserved as Peregrino… they remember me!)

@peregrina2000 - you can do it! like Alan Sykes. btw I’m only 72 and never fitter. Good food helps!





(al punto… though the tuna looked amazing!)



choccy dessert



I head back to Blighty tomorrow, courtesy of Vueling airline (recommended) and prepare to finish my Pennine Way with tent etc. from Tan Hill.

All best. Abrazos.

 

[AlanSykes]

Felicationes, @filly on your Sagunto. I loved it, especially Soria, both provincia and capital. Coming from the most sparsley inhabited area of England, the emptiness of Soria appeals enormously - the province's entire population could apparently fit in Barcelona's Camp Nou football ground and still leave empty seats.