LIVE from the Camino LIVE from the Camino de Catalán

[Undermanager]

Day 1 - To Montserrat we go ......
4 yrs since the last Camino, older, less brain cells, easily confused usually followed by a touch of frustration and sometimes panic . I left Coventry, UK at 6.30am and made it to Barcelona's Plaza Espanya by 2.00pm, and also managed to get my folding walking poles through security as well. The first panic moment on arrival was my phone roaming wasn't working! Luckily, the airport wifi was, and after a Google, I found out that I needed to set up a new APN in the mobile phone settings. Good grief.

Bus 46 takes you from right out front of the airport to the plaza in about 30 minutes. After finding a Santander ATM for some Euros and having the first of what will be many hundreds of cafe con leches and bocodillos, I wandered aimlessly around Plaza Espanya for about 15 minutes, a huge underground labyrinth of shops, metro lines and normal trains on different levels. I stumbled onto what I suspect was the one and only Montserrat rail line sign by pure luck, then was helped to buy a €15 train and cable car combo ticket, and helped to the platform, then helped to the right train leaving at 14.36. I think I may have lost some powers of common sense, direction, logical reasoning and a few other things as well. And I seem to have mislaid my baseball cap. Is there any hope? On a more fun note, lots of women are carrying single red roses everywhere, to do with St George's day, I think.

Finally, I got on the train, from Platform 4, train number R5. All the trains have their number on an LED sign on the side. Mine arrived as S8 and changed into R5. We are at least heading in the right direction (maybe). It takes just over an hour and 22 stops to get to the Aeri de Montserrat station, the stop you need to get off at, to then get the cable car next to the station up to Montserrat.

It certainly gets chilly in Montserrat as the evening draws in so have a light jacket to hand. There are plenty of superb views here, a few hotel complexes, cafes and tourist shops, plus a big parking lot for coaches. And then there's the Basilica (€8), Thrown of our Lady (€11), vespers / choir (€11) and a €25 combo ticket (presumably with fries). There are also other things you can visit if so inclined. I decided to pass and look at the pictures on the Internet instead .

The albergue is top notch. I checked in at the Pastoral Coordination Center, where a very nice chap will stamp your credential, take your €10 and get you orientated. After a shower in the clean, warm 6 person dorm and a general wander around the sites, I sorted out where the start of the Camino was for tomorrow. There are eating options here, but they are limited, especially after about 6.00pm, and they're somewhat pricey as well. It might be worth bringing food up with you from Barcelona for the evening and breakfast, as well as water.

An easyish day. Let's see what tomorrow brings ....

 

[Elena peregrina]

Day 1 - To Montserrat we go ......
4 yrs since the last Camino, older, less brain cells, easily confused usually followed by a touch of frustration and sometimes panic . I left Coventry, UK at 6.30am and made it to Barcelona's Plaza Espanya by 2.00pm, and also managed to get my folding walking poles through security as well. The first panic moment on arrival was my phone roaming wasn't working! Luckily, the airport wifi was, and after a Google, I found out that I needed to set up a new APN in the mobile phone settings. Good grief.

Bus 46 takes you from right out front of the airport to the plaza in about 30 minutes. After finding a Santander ATM for some Euros and having the first of what will be many hundreds of cafe con leches and bocodillos, I wandered aimlessly around Plaza Espanya for about 15 minutes, a huge underground labyrinth of shops, metro lines and normal trains on different levels. I stumbled onto what I suspect was the one and only Montserrat rail line sign by pure luck, then was helped to buy a €15 train and cable car combo ticket, and helped to the platform, then helped to the right train leaving at 14.36. I think I may have lost some powers of common sense, direction, logical reasoning and a few other things as well. And I seem to have mislaid my baseball cap. Is there any hope? On a more fun note, lots of women are carrying single red roses everywhere, to do with St George's day, I think.

Finally, I got on the train, from Platform 4, train number R5. All the trains have their number on an LED sign on the side. Mine arrived as S8 and changed into R5. We are at least heading in the right direction (maybe). It takes just over an hour and 22 stops to get to the Aeri de Montserrat station, the stop you need to get off at, to then get the cable car next to the station up to Montserrat.

It certainly gets chilly in Montserrat as the evening draws in so have a light jacket to hand. There are plenty of superb views here, a few hotel complexes, cafes and tourist shops, plus a big parking lot for coaches. And then there's the Basilica (€8), Thrown of our Lady (€11), vespers / choir (€11) and a €25 combo ticket (presumably with fries). There are also other things you can visit if so inclined. I decided to pass and look at the pictures on the Internet instead .

The albergue is top notch. I checked in at the Pastoral Coordination Center, where a very nice chap will stamp your credential, take your €10 and get you orientated. After a shower in the clean, warm 6 person dorm and a general wander around the sites, I sorted out where the start of the Camino was for tomorrow. There are eating options here, but they are limited, especially after about 6.00pm, and they're somewhat pricey as well. It might be worth bringing food up with you from Barcelona for the evening and breakfast, as well as water.

An easyish day. Let's see what tomorrow brings ....

Thanks for your post. We’ll be starting cami Catalan in a week so I’ll be following you. All tips appreciated . Buen camino.

 

[Magwood]

First of many I hope @Undermanager keep up the good work. Will be following in your footsteps in three weeks. Buen camino!

 

[jalluisi]

Buen Camino!

 

[Undermanager]

Day 2 Montserrat to Igualada
After 6.30pm, everywhere is closed in Montserrat and the temperature drops considerably. In the building where the Albergue is, on Level P, there is a basic kitchen area you can use with microwave, kettle and fridge, and a warm communal dining / relaxing area, as well as what looked like an open hotel restaurant, although I didn't have a closer look. The albergue itself seems to be a few rooms within a much larger rather sterile hotel complex, and is next to the small police station. You check in at the Pastoral Coordination Center (hours are from 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and from 4:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.) just to the left of the Basilica, or at the reception of the Abat Cisneros hotel, which is 30m away.

I left before 7.00am and it was 1 degree C outside but clear skies. It was pretty chilly until the afternoon. You walk round a path from Montserrat (there was a big deer on mine 10 minutes out) until you hit the road, then you walk along side the road. The mountains are on your left and great views on your right. It's more of a march than a hike as the road never goes away. I don't mind the odd day road marching but it's hard on your legs on the first day. I stopped frequently to rest, as am forcing myself to take it easy in the first week. Having a blue sky day helped.

After about 10km, I followed arrows round to the left as the road forked, then must have missed a turning somewhere as all arrows disappeared, which I hadn't noticed for 20 minutes. A quick look at the map, and I decided to get on the B110 and the road called Carretera del Bruc. It was a good choice, being a back road, no more coaches steaming past, very quiet and very countryfied.

15km from Montserrat, heaven! The first bar appeared so stopped for a well earned coffee and chocolate croissant. It was still mainly road walking, with the odd short diversion onto dirt track.

At around 19kms you pass through the small and sleepy village of Castelloli. I walked straight through but there were 4 or 5 cafes along the main road here if you wanted a drink and food. A couple did stop me for a chat and said there was an albergue here if I wanted to stay. I think I saw it on the Gronze site as well, but it was only 12.30 so a bit early to stop. Still, if you are looking for smaller stages, this would be a harmless option.

At 26kms, after more roadside walking, you'll hit the outskirts of the sprawling Igualada. It's a very long 4km to the albergue in the tourist centre, first through 2kms of industrial estate, then 2kms of city centre, and not much fun. Still, you'll get there in the end. If a bus passes, take it! You won't be missing anything. I thought the Montserrat albergue was nice but this is really classy, with great views, crazy clean, 5* facilities and the usual Spanish hours for check-in times, so after 4pm for nearly everyone, who can't race to get there before 1.30pm. You check in at the tourist office, pay just over €20 and get your key. Then go avail yourself of the facilities. If you have to wait around, there are half a dozen bars close by for sustenance. I wouldn't describe today as a classic. There's a lot of uninspiring road walking but it's okay, especially as the weather was just about perfect.

The money situation is worth noting. I have had a Wise cash card for a while, and it has been rejected in 2 out of 4 places so far in Spain. The Santander ATM issued mostly only €50 notes using my Santander card and then in the bank itself, they wouldn't change it for smaller ones! No one in Spain like €50 notes so unload them at every opportunity. Treasure your change!

 

[Vacajoe]

Day 1 - To Montserrat we go ......
4 yrs since the last Camino, older, less brain cells, easily confused usually followed by a touch of frustration and sometimes panic . I left Coventry, UK at 6.30am and made it to Barcelona's Plaza Espanya by 2.00pm, and also managed to get my folding walking poles through security as well. The first panic moment on arrival was my phone roaming wasn't working! Luckily, the airport wifi was, and after a Google, I found out that I needed to set up a new APN in the mobile phone settings. Good grief.

Bus 46 takes you from right out front of the airport to the plaza in about 30 minutes. After finding a Santander ATM for some Euros and having the first of what will be many hundreds of cafe con leches and bocodillos, I wandered aimlessly around Plaza Espanya for about 15 minutes, a huge underground labyrinth of shops, metro lines and normal trains on different levels. I stumbled onto what I suspect was the one and only Montserrat rail line sign by pure luck, then was helped to buy a €15 train and cable car combo ticket, and helped to the platform, then helped to the right train leaving at 14.36. I think I may have lost some powers of common sense, direction, logical reasoning and a few other things as well. And I seem to have mislaid my baseball cap. Is there any hope? On a more fun note, lots of women are carrying single red roses everywhere, to do with St George's day, I think.

Finally, I got on the train, from Platform 4, train number R5. All the trains have their number on an LED sign on the side. Mine arrived as S8 and changed into R5. We are at least heading in the right direction (maybe). It takes just over an hour and 22 stops to get to the Aeri de Montserrat station, the stop you need to get off at, to then get the cable car next to the station up to Montserrat.

It certainly gets chilly in Montserrat as the evening draws in so have a light jacket to hand. There are plenty of superb views here, a few hotel complexes, cafes and tourist shops, plus a big parking lot for coaches. And then there's the Basilica (€8), Thrown of our Lady (€11), vespers / choir (€11) and a €25 combo ticket (presumably with fries). There are also other things you can visit if so inclined. I decided to pass and look at the pictures on the Internet instead .

The albergue is top notch. I checked in at the Pastoral Coordination Center, where a very nice chap will stamp your credential, take your €10 and get you orientated. After a shower in the clean, warm 6 person dorm and a general wander around the sites, I sorted out where the start of the Camino was for tomorrow. There are eating options here, but they are limited, especially after about 6.00pm, and they're somewhat pricey as well. It might be worth bringing food up with you from Barcelona for the evening and breakfast, as well as water.

An easyish day. Let's see what tomorrow brings ....

The restaurant will provide a lower-cost pilgrim meal if you ask and the church is free if you go to attend Mass (or one of the frequent evening concerts). This is the altar where St Ignatius of Loyola laid down his sword (now in a Barcelona church) and devoted his life to the Church. Definitely worth the effort to be in the presence of such of a place.

 

[VNwalking]

Following! Buen camino @Undermanager !

 

[Undermanager]

The restaurant will provide a lower-cost pilgrim meal if you ask and the church is free if you go to attend Mass (or one of the frequent evening concerts). This is the altar where St Ignatius of Loyola laid down his sword (now in a Barcelona church) and devoted his life to the Church. Definitely worth the effort to be in the presence of such of a place.

It would be great to get more specific, practical info on this - where do you go, who do you see, when etc. The hotel never mentioned it, the albergue Registration Office never mentioned it, the Tourist Office didn't either when mentioning walking to Santiago, or even the security guards (although why would they). There was an evening concert yesterday, but was still required to pay so didn't.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 3 - Igualada to La Panadella
Power. I bought a worldwide Momax 70W fast charge adapter before this trip. After 2 days, it's been brilliant. Just chuck in a few leads and away you go. My phone is now charged up in well less than an hour, and no problem for the backup power bank and electric toothbrush. It isn't particularly cheap but am very happy with it so far and will be useful when I travel further afield.

Leaving Igualada is less gruesome than arriving. The way out is clearly marked and you are soon on the outskirts and on to a dirt track. Hurrah, you say, but 5 minutes later, you're back on road. Today is another day next to or very close to the motorway. Jorba, about 2 hours and 9kms from Igualada is the first place to stop, with a couple of cafes in the quiet village. 3kms on from that, there's a motorway stop with food and drink in the petrol station or in the cafe. I'd like to describe it all up to that point but there's not a lot to describe really. The motorway stop is just over half way to La Panadella.

From here, the tarmac route is quieter and less unpleasant, but seems to be mostly on an uphill gradient. And boy oh boy, that last 4 kms to La Panadella is fun - stick your headphones on and march to the beat, a long, straight uphill tarmac road, but next to no traffic. Today, light rain was forecast but none came, so will happily take that. My hips hurt a bit, I can't walk for 10 minutes if I stop for a break and my feet ache, but no major traumas to report.

The destination is essentially a tiny hamlet on a hill that has become a truckstop. There's a petrol station, a breakdown place, a few other random buildings and the huge Hotel Bayona. You can stay here for a bargain €25, for a perfectly adequate en suite room. The welcome when I arrived at 2.00pm was warm and friendly, the ambience is fantastic, there's a huge very busy eating area and it's the kind of place I love!

It's early days yet but it's quite a shock to the system to start pounding tarmac for two days - not unusual as both body and mind are adapting. Am I enjoying this Camino so far? Tricky one, as I thought the monastery was just an overpriced tourist trap and there's not been much to go WoW at so far, except at the skill of the Spanish to create roads. Thankfully, the albergues were both top notch and tonight is gonna be a blast. Good Hotel Bayona change my perception of this Camino?

Tomorrow will be a challenge. I think that's the place not far off 30kms away where I then have to phone the police to get in the albergue? Not sure about that. I also plan to go through the rucksack and see what I can bin. I'm sure I can lose another kg!

 

[Undermanager]

 

[Elena peregrina]

Day 3 - Igualada to La Panadella
Power. I bought a worldwide Momax 70W fast charge adapter before this trip. After 2 days, it's been brilliant. Just chuck in a few leads and away you go. My phone is now charged up in well less than an hour, and no problem for the backup power bank and electric toothbrush. It isn't particularly cheap but am very happy with it so far and will be useful when I travel further afield.

Leaving Igualada is less gruesome than arriving. The way out is clearly marked and you are soon on the outskirts and on to a dirt track. Hurrah, you say, but 5 minutes later, you're back on road. Today is another day next to or very close to the motorway. Jorba, about 2 hours and 9kms from Igualada is the first place to stop, with a couple of cafes in the quiet village. 3kms on from that, there's a motorway stop with food and drink in the petrol station or in the cafe. I'd like to describe it all up to that point but there's not a lot to describe really. The motorway stop is just over half way to La Panadella.

From here, the tarmac route is quieter and less unpleasant, but seems to be mostly on an uphill gradient. And boy oh boy, that last 4 kms to La Panadella is fun - stick your headphones on and march to the beat, a long, straight uphill tarmac road, but next to no traffic. Today, light rain was forecast but none came, so will happily take that. My hips hurt a bit, I can't walk for 10 minutes if I stop for a break and my feet ache, but no major traumas to report.

The destination is essentially a tiny hamlet on a hill that has become a truckstop. There's a petrol station, a breakdown place, a few other random buildings and the huge Hotel Bayona. You can stay here for a bargain €25, for a perfectly adequate en suite room. The welcome when I arrived at 2.00pm was warm and friendly, the ambience is fantastic, there's a huge very busy eating area and it's the kind of place I love!

It's early days yet but it's quite a shock to the system to start pounding tarmac for two days - not unusual as both body and mind are adapting. Am I enjoying this Camino so far? Tricky one, as I thought the monastery was just an overpriced tourist trap and there's not been much to go WoW at so far, except at the skill of the Spanish to create roads. Thankfully, the albergues were both top notch and tonight is gonna be a blast. Good Hotel Bayona change my perception of this Camino?

Tomorrow will be a challenge. I think that's the place not far off 30kms away where I then have to phone the police to get in the albergue? Not sure about that. I also plan to go through the rucksack and see what I can bin. I'm sure I can lose another kg!

We’ll be there next week. Your posts are really informative. Much appreciated. Can you post the number for the police station and any other info re accessing the albergue when you’ve arrived. Buen camino y muchísimas gracias.

 

[Undermanager]

Use the Gronze website

 

[Josep Montserrat]

Day 3 - Igualada to La Panadella
Power. I bought a worldwide Momax 70W fast charge adapter before this trip. After 2 days, it's been brilliant. Just chuck in a few leads and away you go. My phone is now charged up in well less than an hour, and no problem for the backup power bank and electric toothbrush. It isn't particularly cheap but am very happy with it so far and will be useful when I travel further afield.

Leaving Igualada is less gruesome than arriving. The way out is clearly marked and you are soon on the outskirts and on to a dirt track. Hurrah, you say, but 5 minutes later, you're back on road. Today is another day next to or very close to the motorway. Jorba, about 2 hours and 9kms from Igualada is the first place to stop, with a couple of cafes in the quiet village. 3kms on from that, there's a motorway stop with food and drink in the petrol station or in the cafe. I'd like to describe it all up to that point but there's not a lot to describe really. The motorway stop is just over half way to La Panadella.

From here, the tarmac route is quieter and less unpleasant, but seems to be mostly on an uphill gradient. And boy oh boy, that last 4 kms to La Panadella is fun - stick your headphones on and march to the beat, a long, straight uphill tarmac road, but next to no traffic. Today, light rain was forecast but none came, so will happily take that. My hips hurt a bit, I can't walk for 10 minutes if I stop for a break and my feet ache, but no major traumas to report.

The destination is essentially a tiny hamlet on a hill that has become a truckstop. There's a petrol station, a breakdown place, a few other random buildings and the huge Hotel Bayona. You can stay here for a bargain €25, for a perfectly adequate en suite room. The welcome when I arrived at 2.00pm was warm and friendly, the ambience is fantastic, there's a huge very busy eating area and it's the kind of place I love!

It's early days yet but it's quite a shock to the system to start pounding tarmac for two days - not unusual as both body and mind are adapting. Am I enjoying this Camino so far? Tricky one, as I thought the monastery was just an overpriced tourist trap and there's not been much to go WoW at so far, except at the skill of the Spanish to create roads. Thankfully, the albergues were both top notch and tonight is gonna be a blast. Good Hotel Bayona change my perception of this Camino?

Tomorrow will be a challenge. I think that's the place not far off 30kms away where I then have to phone the police to get in the albergue? Not sure about that. I also plan to go through the rucksack and see what I can bin. I'm sure I can lose another kg!

Hi Undermanager,

On Tuesday I walked from La Pandella to Tàrrega, like a day walk.
This is my track on Wikiloc.
I stopped in Cervera for lunch.
There is less asphalt than Igualada to La Panadella.
I think you'll like it more.

Bon Camí.


https://ca.wikiloc.com/rutes-sender...-etapa-la-panadella-cervera-tarrega-168369729

 

[Undermanager]

Hi Undermanager,

On Tuesday I walked from La Pandella to Tàrrega, like a day walk.
This is my track on Wikiloc.
I stopped in Cervera for lunch.
There is less asphalt than Igualada to La Panadella.
I think you'll like it more.

Bon Camí.


https://ca.wikiloc.com/rutes-sender...-etapa-la-panadella-cervera-tarrega-168369729

That's reassuring Thanks for the info.

 

[Vacajoe]

It would be great to get more specific, practical info on this - where do you go, who do you see, when etc. The hotel never mentioned it, the albergue Registration Office never mentioned it, the Tourist Office didn't either when mentioning walking to Santiago, or even the security guards (although why would they). There was an evening concert yesterday, but was still required to pay so didn't.

Very odd, as it was made very clear to us as pilgrims when we stayed there a few years back as well as a friend who was there last year. As for seeing inside the church itself, attending a service is always free, though you sometimes have to explicitly state you are there for that purpose. This is true on the Camino as well as around the world (COE Eve’song in St Paul’s, Canterbury, Winchester, and Westminster - all very moving!).

 

[Undermanager]

Currently in Terraga. Tomorrow, the apartment mentioned in Gronze in Linyola is taken. The walk to the next place from Terraga is about 38kms, which may kill me off. Can anyone see any other options just after Linyola, or around it please? Looking for maybe a hotel, and can possible share a twin as another Spanish pilgrim here doing the same route. Any (urgent) advice welcome

 

[VNwalking]

If you take the southern arm of the camino there are more options; perhaps going to El Palau d'Anglesola, and cutting across to Balauger the next day? Alternatively, it looks from Google Maps that there's a place, Apartaments La Llacuna, in Vila Sana, a bit off the Camino and a bit short of Linyola.

La Llacuna

 

[Undermanager]

Day 4 - La Panadella to Terrega
On warming down. I learnt the hard way many years ago that spending 15 minutes warming down after a long day hiking, stretching, walking backwards, resetting muscles by getting them to do the opposite of what they've been doing all day really does help. It's even more true the older I get. There are plenty of YouTube videos on the subject, but if it's not part of your ritual, perhaps it's something to consider.

So, Hostel Bayona. They do very tasty looking comprehensive set menus, which are €14 instead of €18 for camino walkers during the day but they finish late in the afternoon. They were clearly popular as the place was packed when I arrived at 2.00pm. After that, there's a sandwich menu plus a few meals. You'll no doubt arrive at 2.00pm give or take as it's only 22kms from your start - if you have the energy straightaway or can find out when the set menus finish and start again, definitely go for that option. By the time I'd done all my jobs, showered, dozed, etc, I came down, and the place had gone from packed to empty, and the set meals were finished. However, about 8.00pm, they were up and running again? Still, one beefsteak and fries from the bar menu and all was well. The rest of the evening was spent having a wander round (there are old fortifications up by the phone mast), looking at the millions of house martins nesting, drinking coffee then beer and playing on the phone. It got cold later on so had to wrap up warm. I was in bed and fast asleep by 9.00pm.

As usual, I was up and out around 7.00am the next day. I have about 30km to do today. There's an albergue at the destination but looks like there are a few hotels about if I don't fancy faffing. Albergue access appears to involve calling the local police but with my non-Spanish, it isn't a realistic option. The next few days seem a bit tricky for accommodation but we'll see.

It was a lovely bluesky day today. It was nearly all dirt track except for a few kilometers near the start and 5 kms at the end, and all through very pretty countryside. It's worth grabbing breakfast or some snacks from either the hotel or the petrol station as there weren't many options until you got to Cervera, assuming you go there because it's on a very big hill you may not fancy walking up. I didn't.

In Sant Pere dels Arquells, you have a choice. You can go right and follow the road closer to the motorway and then into Cervera, a very pretty town on a very big hill. Or you can follow the dirt route marked 'motorcross'. I took the very pretty dirt route and it was fun, a bit more up and down but through a forest at times. You end up at the bottom of Cervera, looking up at the town and thinking, 'Do I really want to go up there?' I didn't, so skirted around it and then got on the path to Terrega.

Well done to whoever marked out the Albergue as I went straight to it. You have to walk through the pretty town of Terrega and it's about 1.5kms from the centre the orherside and almost the last building in an industrial estate! I did pop into a supermarket on the way, which was a very smart move, as I don't fancy walking back to eat as I'm knackered. I expected to have to faff about but there was someone there checking a couple of other pilgrims in. It's a very nice, new set-up, but I think everyone will look forward to the day locks are put on the showers and toilets! There's a microwave and fridge in the small kitchen. The police even showed up, to make sure that everything was okay!

All I have to do now is try and sort out somewhere to stay tomorrow. I knew this might be a problem stage and so it is proving. It might be a long day tomorrow.

 

[Elena peregrina]

Currently in Terraga. Tomorrow, the apartment mentioned in Gronze in Linyola is taken. The walk to the next place from Terraga is about 38kms, which may kill me off. Can anyone see any other options just after Linyola, or around it please? Looking for maybe a hotel, and can possible share a twin as another Spanish pilgrim here doing the same route. Any (urgent) advice welcome

I just called the apartment in Linyola to see if the apartment was taken on my dates ( booking said it was full). The very friendly person I spoke to asked me to call back tomorrow to confirm. Relevant to you is that she mentioned that they also have a single room which is separate from the apartment. It might be worth giving her a call to see if that’s available tomorrow?

 

[Josep Montserrat]

Currently in Terraga. Tomorrow, the apartment mentioned in Gronze in Linyola is taken. The walk to the next place from Terraga is about 38kms, which may kill me off. Can anyone see any other options just after Linyola, or around it please? Looking for maybe a hotel, and can possible share a twin as another Spanish pilgrim here doing the same route. Any (urgent) advice welcome

Hi,
I phoned La Teuleria in Linyola 609930663 they didn't take it.
At Perebep Apartments if they catch it. I am told that on Saturday night they are full (weekend),
Sunday night if you have a room with bathroom and microwave for € 20. 679183943, they can assist you in English.
I've looked at the ALSA buses but you don't have any combinations.
Perhaps the most reasonable thing to do is to rest tomorrow and make the stage on Sunday or walk another 13 kilometers to Balaguer.

Buen Camino

 

[Undermanager]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I have a few options now, which helps. I think I'll be doing a walk from the Albergue, turn left then right direct to Linyola (20kms) as suggested by Google Maps, rather than backtracking into town and walking the camino route. It looks like an interesting route and will save 4kms. Then on to Balaguer another 13kms. I expect to walk about 33kms tomorrow which is okay, just. The weather forecast is not the best though so will have to see. Thanks again.

PS Have yet to try out the Translate Live feature on my Samsung phone, to instantly translate phone calls, so tomorrow may be the time ....

 

[Josep Montserrat]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I have a few options now, which helps. I think I'll be doing a walk from the Albergue, turn left then right direct to Linyola (20kms) as suggested by Google Maps, rather than backtracking into town and walking the camino route. It looks like an interesting route and will save 4kms. Then on to Balaguer another 13kms. I expect to walk about 33kms tomorrow which is okay, just. The weather forecast is not the best though so will have to see. Thanks again.

PS Have yet to try out the Translate Live feature on my Samsung phone, to instantly translate phone calls, so tomorrow may be the time ....

Right now they have returned the call from the Teuleria a Linyola. For tomorrow night € 40 . If you are interested call 609930663. The mistress speaks English.

https://www.google.es/maps/place/Te...1.704382!4d0.905352!16s/g/124ynrxp7?entry=ttu

Bon Camí

 

[Undermanager]

Thanks but going to head for Balaguer now. I have a route that's 33km so should be okay. Thanks anyway.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 5 - Tárrega to Balaguer
On food. One of my favourite quick meals are the Caesar salads sold in supermarkets. They are pre-made, tasty and filling but also light, which means popping them in the rucksack for later doesn't add too much weight.

Linyola is a bit of a problem for accommodation. The apartment mentioned in Gronze was booked for today. The plan weather willing is to go from the Albergue, which is way out of Tárrega on the wrong road, to Linyola using the direct route suggested on Google Maps. This should be about 20kms and save 4kms in backtracking and being on the more circuitous camino route. From there, it's a straight line to Balaguer. The plan is to stay in Hostel Sant Miquel, a basic hotel, allegedly for €21.

I left at 7.00am in light rain. Despite the forecast, that was all I saw all day, although it threatened it regularly. I came out the hostel turned left to Anglesola, Barbens, Ivars d'Urgell then Linyola. It was about 21kms of quiet tarmac back road except for the last 4 kms in a straight line, with very little to see except crops and industrial agricultural factories. But it was flat and took just over 4 hours walking time to cover it. The villages on the way were all conveniently spaced with cafes. Barbers had a bakery, too.

I'm glad I decided not to stay in Linyola. It was very quiet, did have a few shops but I was there before midday, which is far too early to stop. So I visited the supermarket near the church, had lunch and made a beeline to Balaguer. 13kms or so of dirt track without stopping, and the dirt meant less pounding on my feet. Heaven. Tarmac really takes it out of me unless I've gotten accustomed to it. There are zero provisions on this stretch, so have a good lunch and take enough water. There's nothing to see except flat fields. If you're British, think Norfolk Fens. The only slightly concerning thing was that there were some suspiciously looking hilly hills in my general direction in the distance. I just hoped Balaguer wasn't on top of one of them. Fortunately, it wasn't.

Today was the first time I used Samsung's Live Translate for a phone call. It worked! I crossed the bridge, saw the closed hostel on the right, rang the number on the door of the hostel, said I was a pilgrim and was outside, and they came down and let me in! Hurrah for technology!

Hostel Sant Miquel is on the second floor, and I wasn't holding out much hope from first impressions but the two ladies running it were lovely, the room is basic but spotless and as I was just about crippled after today, they helped me get up, with my bag etc. It was €25 haggled down from €30, with a sink but not ensuite. Thoroughly recommended.

I know nothing about Balaguer, but there's a large monastery at the top of a hill overlooking the hostel. Assuming they charge like Montserrat, I have no intention of going up and looking. It's a small town with a High Street, big river and all perfectly harmless. Tonight will be about recovering, and working out the next few stages, as my (Maggie's) Great Plan is totally out of sync now.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 6 - Balaguer to Algerri
On clothing. I bought the cheapest of cheap ponchos from Decathlon before leaving and had it on most of the day yesterday. The jury's still out, but one thing given Spain can be hot and humid, you don't sweat or overheat like I have in the past with jackets, even expensive Gortex ones. Tomorrow is another grim looking weather day so it might get tested in heavier rain. I think I might go for a better designed poncho next time, though, that fully covers the rucksack.

My favourite trouser set-up is lightweight shorts, with overtrousers on top. Mine zip up to the knee. They will keep you warm in the cold mornings as well as in the evenings when relaxing, and dry and cool during the day. But when it's too hot, you can just whip the overtrousers off and you're good to go in shorts. I've used this set-up for over a decade now. Perfecto!

I usually wear cheapo popsocks (ankle length tights) and then a thin pair of socks on top. The popsocks wick away moisture very effectively and last about a week per pair. Since using this arrangement, I've rarely had a food blister. Before that, it was a constant problem.

The hostel last night was excellent. Everything inside was new so it looked great, but there's no kitchen, lounge, water or any facilities, and my room had no ensuite. If you need provisions, there's the big supermarket on the high street 5 minutes away, which you probably passed walking to the hostel.

After a 10 minute uphill slog out of Balaguer, you get on a few kilometres of road, then it switches to a dirt track for the rest of the day. It was a very fresh day, no rain setting off, but it had clearly been belting down overnight as the track was really muddy with pools of water everywhere.

Walking through flat then rolling countryside, the first village is the very pretty Castello de Farfanya, about 9kms away. There's a very old, seriously impressive, ruined castle or church on a hill overlooking the village, donkey-wide alleys in the village, but nowhere open at that time to eat or drink. It was early Sunday and not surprising, so pressed on to the village of Algerri, another 8km. If anyone has the energy, it would be great to see some photos from the ruins.

Algerri is another small, pretty village with a ruined castle on a hill. I didn't find any shops but there's a petrol station on the main road after you walk through the village, and the Parador Algerri bar next to it so sat and had an early lunch. I learnt something today. A big P on a blue sign outside a bar is the secret sign for rooms available. It might be worth looking out for in future if stuck. This bar did rooms for €30 so an option if the albergue is full, you can't find the keyholder, or you just need a bit of space for a night. It does bar food and restaurant meals, too, although a tadge pricey.

So, what to do next? I was still aching a bit from yesterday, especially my hips but a knee as well, so surprisingly, given I'm not known for good decision-making, I decided to stop in Algerri at the albergue. It was not even midday and had only done 18kms, but it looked like there could be a world of pain if pressing on - nowhere to stay in Alfarras, the next village, and 22km more to get to Tamarite de Litera, or maybe 5 hours walking. Not only that but heavy rain was forecast in the afternoon, and the humidity was noticeably building up. The bar was open all day, I could have a rest and see if the body heals a bit, wash a few clothes out, and be back in walking sync with The Plan.

It took an hour to get into the albergue, all my own fault of course, for not phoning in advance as instructed on the Gronze site. Fortunately, another pilgrim who spoke Spanish was here, so he was able to knock on doors, phone the village mayor, and get a key, as the main keyholder was out on bell ringing duties today! I met the other pilgrim in Montserrat and our paths have criss-crossed since then. He started the camino from his house in Barcelona, walking up to Montserrat on day 1. Now that's impressive. He's the only other person I've met so far.

This albergue in Algerri is top notch, with a dozen beds across two rooms, a lounge with dining table, balcony, kitchen and tv, a shower room and toilet and a place to dry off your clothes. It all looks new, white, bright, airy and is really really nice, a lovely place to relax. It's right next to the church, adjoining the ayuntamiento so is easy to find. If there is a shop here in the village, now is the time for that communal meal!

So now, I'm at the bar, enjoying a beer and some food, having a look at what tomorrow may bring ....

 

[Undermanager]

Day 7 - Algerri - Tamarite de Litera
On shoes. I used to think that hiking meant hiking boots, of the leather, ankle supporting variety. Spain knocked that idea on its head long ago, as I found my feet swelled and sweated so much in leather boots when I first started caminos, and pain and blisters usually followed. And the extra weight on each foot was unwelcome, too!

For the last decade, I've used cheapo Karrimore Weatherlite Low Bodmin IV shoes, with Dr Scholls inserts. I had to give up the VDLP one year, when plantar fasciitis struck and it took 4 or 5 months to get over this painful condition. These inserts seem to help support the arch of my foot now, and I've not had a problem since. The walking shoes I use are cheap, comfy, just about showerproof, dry quickly if soaked but most importantly let my feet breathe. I rarely get blisters now, especially as I use ankle-high tights (popsocks) under thin socks as well, which wick away moisture. The shoes never really last more than a camino, two at most, but as they're so cheap, it doesn't matter. They are somewhere between a half a size and a full size bigger than I need, to allow for swelling feet. I'm also a fan of Gewohl foot cream, which I start using a month before the camino and then each morning on the camino before setting off. It seems to help toughen up the feet.

Yesterday was spent having a few beers, washing clothes, emailing ahead the albergues I'll be staying in over the next few days and reading about the thousands of people starting the CdeF in 'a bubble' in the last few days and the ensuing panic it's causing over beds! Maybe they should switch over and try this camino , or my favourite, the Madrid. It was a relaxing stay in Algerri, made possible by being in such a nice albergue, although it's a shame there's no shop or supermarket in the village to talk of.

The forecast for today was very bad, 90 - 100% chance of rain all day long. On the plus side, it's another fairly short stage, about 22kms and around 5 hours if you include a break somewhere. The poncho will be tested for sure.

I set off at about 7.00am. And no rain! Are Spanish weather forecasters as bad as the British ones ? It might be too early to tell, but it's not raining, very gloomy, but no rain. I set off at a good pace, and before I knew it, I was in and out of the grim Alfarràs, about 7km away. It's a small industrial town. There are no cafes or shops from here to Tamerite so this is the place to have breakfast and grab a snack or two if you haven't done so already. If you get here when it's open, you pass close to a big supermarket just as you are about to exit the town 30m down a road on the left from the camino route. I didn't even want to stop for coffee, though. Up a hill for a few kilometers, and you are out of Catalan and into Aragon, passing under the canal that separates the two provinces. Then it started raining and didn't stop until I got to the albergue. This is yet another pretty tedious day with very little to see or enthuse about. It was about two thirds dirt track, one third tarmac. There were no cafes except at the start and in Alfarràs.

At Tamerite, I phoned the number (or rather my Spanish friend phoned the number, as he conveniently arrived just as I was faffing about) given in Gronze when standing outside the town hall. An unhappy chappy then appeared 5 minutes later, took us inside to take our details and then led us to the albergue, a 5 minute walk away. After all the others, it's back to Earth. It is very clean, but very basic with a couple of showers and toilets. There's no kitchen or sitting area - I've been spoilt in the last week . You leave a donation in the box when you leave. The town has loads of shops, bars, supermarkets, a post office etc - you'll start to see them when you walk to the Town Hall. Just as we got to the albergue, the heavens really opened up and it poured with rain for hours.

This is my 6th or 7th Camino. I'd happily do any of the others again (and indeed have). This camino does have a few positives; I like the hiking, that Barcelona is easy to get to from where I live in the UK, that it's got almost zero pilgrims on the route, that the route is well-marked and mostly, there are enough really high quality albergues and cheap hotels to make it doable without breaking the bank. But I really don't like the excessive tarmac walking, often being so close to major roads and with the exception of day 3, it just doesn't look or feel like a pretty or interesting camino. Put it side by side the Madrid, Lana etc and it sort of pales by comparison. I'm sure others would disagree, but that's where I am after a week here. I'd struggle to want to do this one again if I'm being honest. I have been hoping it will get better each day, but think it's time (body willing) to look for ways and opportunities to speed up the stages now, and find an area a bit more interesting to walk through. Tomorrow does present an opportunity for a double stage. It's really whether the hips can cope ......

 

[Magwood]

It’s sounding a bit grim Dave, but I’ve read that the scenery really picks up as you go along. Maybe these uninspiring days will make you appreciate the camino Aragones even more

 

[Undermanager]

Day 8 - Tamarite de Litera to Monzon
On costs. I set off about 6.00am from Coventry, UK last Tuesday and arrived in Barcelona at midday. I immediately took out €300 from an ATM and have a Wise travel card preloaded with Euros. So, for the first 7 days and 7 nights for everything, from landing in Barcelona until Monday bedtime, train and cable car up to Montserrat, 5 albergues and two basic hotels, all food, snacks and drink, I've spent a grand total of €275, or €39 per day so far. I don't drink much alcohol, perhaps a beer somewhere in a bar in the evening but water mainly, plus a couple of coffees a day. I prefer to grab different food and salads from supermarkets for main meals and snacks but have also had three well-overpriced pub meals costing between €20 - €25, which they definitely weren't worth.

I wouldn't say walking this camino is any more or less expensive than the last one (Camino de Lana) four years ago or indeed any previous one, with one notable exception, meals in bars. Many on this route seem in the €20 - €25 region for seriously average plates of food or set menus. Not everywhere (Hostel Bagoda's set menu at €14 for pilgrims was excellent value), but enough places charge enough to make me sit up and notice. Some of the bakeries, too, have sold me pretty substandard slices of pizza and pastries as snacks at fairly high prices as well, and not really that good. Supermarket prices seem of the same order as 4 years ago. Albergues were €10 per night, although the one in Igualada was €22. Both hotels were €25 per night. I like water with gas, but there's really no reason to buy bottled water in Spain, with all the drinkable fountains about. And tap water has been drinkable everywhere when I've asked as well. I hope that this info helps someone budget for their trip if they want to do this Camino.

The albergue in Tamarite was okay, just. The pouring rain all afternoon and evening didn't help, and there is no kitchen, kettle, or sitting area unfortunately. Take note that the large building is derelict inside in some parts whilst other sections are used as a community centre. Although the very clean albergue is in one well-maintained wing, there may be (very noisy) groups popping in and out all evening with banging and shouting above, below and in the albergue (we had a yoga group opposite our room for an hour). Every bit of noise made anywhere in the building seemed to echo and reverberate through the albergue. I did brave a visit in the rain to the supermarket for supplies, mainly to escape for a while, and a bar for a few glasses of red wine for medicinal purposes. If you're a light sleeper, you might want to get those industrial strength earplugs ready or consider your options before arriving.

I was off before 7.00am today, to avoid the downpours forecast last night. However, it was quite bright and clear so was hopeful for an easy, dry day. After a brief uphill bit, you are out of town and on your way. There was one cafe open on the main High Street on the Camino route, if you need a coffee before setting off. I didn't spot any others open. There are zero facilities anywhere between here and Monzon, so stock up with breakfast, snacks and water the day before.

You are on dirt track pretty quickly today, although about a third of today will be on road. It was very muddy and slippy all day on the dirt tracks, as a result of 12 hours of rain, I guess. Walking poles were welcome to help you stay on your feet, and I played 'Dodge the snail' for hours. There were thousands of them about!

Some of the morning was spent walking besides fast-flowing chemical-green irrigation channels. God help anyone who falls in, as there are zero emergency ladders on the steep sides. There are plenty of agricultural facilities and production units to admire, as you tick off the kilometres. Best get your headphones ready and a playlist or podcast or two.

Bum. I got to the Albergue, only to find out that they aren't taking pilgrims until at least 21st May. Something to do with reserving it for their sportsmen and sportswomen. Fortunately, my Spanish pilgrim friend is fluent in Spanish! A phone call and €29 later and we each have a nice ensuite room in Hostal Venecia 1, which is 10 minutes walk from Plaza Mayor, opposite the train station. I was thinking about pressing on, but Monzon is a very pretty old town with a massive castle and lots of narrow streets in its old town, and my body aches a bit. It's the first place on this Camino I liked the look of so decided to stay, have a look about and relax. Or just go to sleep.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Appreciate the posts, hope you enjoy town - and get a decent rest!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

The albergue in Tamarite was okay, just. The pouring rain all afternoon and evening didn't help, and there is no kitchen, kettle, or sitting area unfortunately. Take note that the large building is derelict inside in some parts whilst other sections are used as a community centre. Although the very clean albergue is in one well-maintained wing, there may be (very noisy) groups popping in and out all evening with banging and shouting above, below and in the albergue (we had a yoga group opposite our room for an hour).

Let me add that you get two keys; one to the building and one to the albergue wing. Visitors to other parts of the building don't have access to the albergue portion. Noise does carry there but I didn't find the place as busy as @Undermanager did.

Memory, maybe faulty, is telling me that this was the first place I found where shutting off the overhead lights also shut off the power to the wall outlets. Fortunately I noticed that my phone wasn't charging before I fell asleep so I charged my phone in another room. I was the only one in the albergue that night.

The albergue in Berbegal, two Gronze stages further on, also had the problem with the power switch handling both the lights and outlets.

Really good reports @Undermanager.

 

[Elena peregrina]

Day 8 - Tamarite de Litera to Monzon
On costs. I set off about 6.00am from Coventry, UK last Tuesday and arrived in Barcelona at midday. I immediately took out €300 from an ATM and have a Wise travel card preloaded with Euros. So, for the first 7 days and 7 nights for everything, from landing in Barcelona until Monday bedtime, train and cable car up to Montserrat, 5 albergues and two basic hotels, all food, snacks and drink, I've spent a grand total of €275, or €39 per day so far. I don't drink much alcohol, perhaps a beer somewhere in a bar in the evening but water mainly, plus a couple of coffees a day. I prefer to grab different food and salads from supermarkets for main meals and snacks but have also had three well-overpriced pub meals costing between €20 - €25, which they definitely weren't worth.

I wouldn't say walking this camino is any more or less expensive than the last one (Camino de Lana) four years ago or indeed any previous one, with one notable exception, meals in bars. Many on this route seem in the €20 - €25 region for seriously average plates of food or set menus. Not everywhere (Hostel Bagoda's set menu at €14 for pilgrims was excellent value), but enough places charge enough to make me sit up and notice. Some of the bakeries, too, have sold me pretty substandard slices of pizza and pastries as snacks at fairly high prices as well, and not really that good. Supermarket prices seem of the same order as 4 years ago. Albergues were €10 per night, although the one in Igualada was €22. Both hotels were €25 per night. I like water with gas, but there's really no reason to buy bottled water in Spain, with all the drinkable fountains about. And tap water has been drinkable everywhere when I've asked as well. I hope that this info helps someone budget for their trip if they want to do this Camino.

The albergue in Tamarite was okay, just. The pouring rain all afternoon and evening didn't help, and there is no kitchen, kettle, or sitting area unfortunately. Take note that the large building is derelict inside in some parts whilst other sections are used as a community centre. Although the very clean albergue is in one well-maintained wing, there may be (very noisy) groups popping in and out all evening with banging and shouting above, below and in the albergue (we had a yoga group opposite our room for an hour). Every bit of noise made anywhere in the building seemed to echo and reverberate through the albergue. I did brave a visit in the rain to the supermarket for supplies, mainly to escape for a while, and a bar for a few glasses of red wine for medicinal purposes. If you're a light sleeper, you might want to get those industrial strength earplugs ready or consider your options before arriving.

I was off before 7.00am today, to avoid the downpours forecast last night. However, it was quite bright and clear so was hopeful for an easy, dry day. After a brief uphill bit, you are out of town and on your way. There was one cafe open on the main High Street on the Camino route, if you need a coffee before setting off. I didn't spot any others open. There are zero facilities anywhere between here and Monzon, so stock up with breakfast, snacks and water the day before.

You are on dirt track pretty quickly today, although about a third of today will be on road. It was very muddy and slippy all day on the dirt tracks, as a result of 12 hours of rain, I guess. Walking poles were welcome to help you stay on your feet, and I played 'Dodge the snail' for hours. There were thousands of them about!

Some of the morning was spent walking besides fast-flowing chemical-green irrigation channels. God help anyone who falls in, as there are zero emergency ladders on the steep sides. There are plenty of agricultural facilities and production units to admire, as you tick off the kilometres. Best get your headphones ready and a playlist or podcast or two.

Bum. I got to the Albergue, only to find out that they aren't taking pilgrims until at least 21st May. Something to do with reserving it for their sportsmen and sportswomen. Fortunately, my Spanish pilgrim friend is fluent in Spanish! A phone call and €29 later and we each have a nice ensuite room in Hostal Venecia 1, which is 10 minutes walk from Plaza Mayor, opposite the train station. I was thinking about pressing on, but Monzon is a very pretty old town with a massive castle and lots of narrow streets in its old town, and my body aches a bit. It's the first place on this Camino I liked the look of so decided to stay, have a look about and relax. Or just go to sleep.

Thanks for the info about the Monzón albergue being closed. We’ll book somewhere

 

[J Willhaus]

Thanks also for the tip on Samsung Translate from the other day. I tried it this morning calling my husband on his phone Seems to work pretty well although there was a brief lag.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 9 - Monzon to Pertusa
Hostal Venecia 1 is recommended if the albergue is closed or you just need an inexpensive hotel for any reason. My ensuite room was perfectly clean, with hairdryer and sink plug - time for a shave!!! There's a couple of vending machines downstairs for coffee and instant meals, and a microwave, and it's good value at €29. It's opposite the train station so just head there and look!

I liked Monzon. I was in the hotel room and fast asleep by 1.00pm. I had felt a bit funny all morning whilst walking and suddenly got really cold with a headache in the hotel, not like me at all. Three hours of sleep under blankets, a shower and shave, and all was well. I then spent two hours visiting the castle. You might as well visit this one if you're only going to visit one in Spain, as it's quite impressive, has Knights Templar associations, and is worth the 20-minute uphill slog. You'll need to Google its history as the info provided was utter pants. Entry is €3.50 and probably worth it. Next, I had a general wander in the old town, then crossed a bridge and had some really nice tapas and a beer overlooking what might be a river, but it could be one of many things - tricky to tell. The tapas was a cut up sausage in a buttery garlic sauce, and stripes of fish around olive (bokirones?). There was a blue sky, and it was a warm and sunny evening, not what I was expecting after last night. I think because tomorrow is a public holiday, the public chilling has started this evening? I moved from my delightful spot to the dingy old blokes' drinking flophouse of a pub a few doors down from the hostel. Fortunately, I fitted in, sank a few more beers, said goodnight to my new best friends and then went off to bed.

Today is May 1st, a public holiday. I wasn't sure what to expect accommodation wise, but was thinking about getting to Huesco in two stages rather than the planned three. There seems to be enough places to be flexible, although no one was answering when I phoned eg the albergue in Pertusa yesterday. I guess we'll just see what happens. I'm in no particular rush but suffer from a low boredom threshold. I hate with a passion sitting around, killing time. Relaxing gets me stressed out.

Leaving Monzon is an easy affair, although not particularly pretty. You'll pass by maybe a concrete factory and then a big industrial estate but you'll soon be out in the flat countryside, admiring irrigation channels. It was okay though. Selgua is quickly upon you, 7km away. As you enter the small village, you'll see camino arrows in all directions. There was an open bar if you want a coffee break. It's on a corner, right opposite the church, so that's an easy landmark to aim for. Then follow the arrows out and head for Berbegal 13kms away.

You can see Berbegal over in the distance as soon as you leave Selgua, sitting like Cape Town's Table Top Mountain. It's a pleasant enough walk to Berbegal but boy, those last few kilometers will have you in a sweat. It's up, up, up. The views are great when you get there though so worth the effort. The bar near the Town Hall will welcome you with open arms and is the place to have a beer con limon after your exertions. This is a large village, with a Spar and a few other shops and would make a nice place to stay. I've no idea what the albergue is like, however. It was not even midday so decided another 13kms to Pertusa was in order. What really swung it, though, was the weather. It was brightening up from the gloomy morning. Cool and bright - perfect for a hike.

The trip to Pertusa was really excellent. I think there maybe be some rerouting going on as the camino arrows didn't always follow both routes I had (off Wikilocs). But I took the most direct route, the fun route, the one where the track disappeared or was overgrown at times and the one that didn't follow the camino arrows. It's on Wikilocs if interested, as 'Camino de Catalan - Day 8'.

You'll hit a more-interesting-than-usual, very long 2km straight tarmac road with a fabulous, clear, fast-flowing, non-chemical-green irrigation channel by it. As you get closer to Pertusa, you'll see a signposted Roman road. It would be fun if someone went that way and reported what they found as it comes out very close to Pertusa. For this section, I was walking and chatting to the Spanish pilgrim, who'd caught up with me just before Berbegal; I'd left the hotel earlier than he had, I think. I don't normally chat and walk with anyone as prefer to be setting my own pace and in my own world, but time flew by on this occasion.

You won't know you are in Pertusa until you are in it! You'll see the church from a few kilometers away and you'll wonder where the village is. Then you turn a corner, drop down and there it is, spread out before you. Follow the arrows to the children's play area, and the albergue is next to it, and the comminty bar as well, which was (sadly) shut. The albergue is superb, and was open when we arrived as we'd managed to make contact with the keyholder in advance, which is recommended. 6 beds in one room, fully equipped kitchen, showers, toilets, place to sit and chat, eat or play on your phone, bright, light and spotless. They ask for a €5 donation. I can feel excessive generosity coming on.

There is another bar somewhere with mysterious opening hours but no shop. I'll maybe go looking for the bar later. We know this because we asked Mariebelle, a lovely lady who was passing. Can you believe it. The next thing was she turned up at the albergue with bread, eggs, home-made tomato sauce, a local salami, ham, some tomatoes, coffee and sugar (no ice cream, though?). And she was adamant she didn't want any money. What a star, given we'd not done our homework about the lack of provisions here - bring what you need if planning to stay as Mariebelle may not be passing when you arrive! The Spanish pilgrim was the designated chef and he cooked up a wonderful pasta dish using the spaghetti we found in the cupboard, followed by coffee. I did chop the ham and tomatoes, which I think was the hardest part of the dish (and washed up ). We have enough for later too, and a bit of breakfast.

So all in all, given the scenery was not always the best today, it was an excellent camino-esque day. The hiking was excellent and I don't feel too crippled by the 33kms; I was a mess the last time I did this distance, on Day 5. I guess the body is getting stronger, although my damned right hip seizes up every time I stop for a sit down - I'm not sure there's much that can be done except scream out loud when I get going again, which is frequently what happens, as it's so painful. It must be odd to see a stranger do that .

It may be possible to get to Huesca tomorrow as it's the same distance as today. And looking at the weather forecast, it looks good for the next 10 days now. The last four days of dark clouds, constant threatening rain and heavy downpours are over!

 

[timr]

@Undermanager
A delight to see your reports of a new adventure. Buen Camino.
I walked a few stages of Camino Catalán in November - the Camino Ignaciano joins it (in the opposite direction) between Tarrega and Montserrat. It finishes up in Manresa.
Day 9 sounds wonderful - how fortunate to meet Mariebelle.
I found the CI wonderful. Was blessed with generally still warm weather. Windy at times. Very few fellow walkers - well just two, and one in the opposite direction!
Tim

 

[Undermanager]

Star wars joke as told in English by the Spanish pilgrim tomorrow ... "On Saturday, May the fourth be with you."

Ha ha ha ha. Today, I will learn a joke in Spanish ...

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

We need a groan icon on the forum!

 

[VNwalking]

Star wars joke as told in English by the Spanish pilgrim tomorrow ... "On Saturday, May the fourth be with you."

Ha ha ha ha. Today, I will learn a joke in Spanish ...

Puns are awful in any language.
And funny.
Good luck!

 

[Undermanager]

Day 10 - Pertusa to Huesca
You might need some lip sunblock and maybe some lip balm on these stages, if you're like me. The sun can be powerful but the strong headwind can soon leave you with dry, chapped lips and blisters.

If you stay in the wonderful Pertusa Albergue, you must go sink a few beers in Pepe's bar. It's a unique experience! Find the secret entrance opposite the church, with a beer logo over the front door. It feels a bit like my days as a student back in Bradford, when you hunted down 'illegal' pubs in people's living rooms for after hours sessions til dawn the next day. Nothing illegal about this place, just different!

I have nothing but great things to say about the village of Pertusa. The albergue is fabulous, the welcome warm, Pepe's is unique and all was good. Just remember that there are no shops and nowhere to buy food, so you need to bring supplies with you. And you will also need supplies for the next day, too, as there is nothing that I saw anywhere between Pertusa and Huesco.

I left after scrambled eggs and coffee after 7.00am. There was blue sky but it was bitterly cold when I set off, with a strong headwind all day adding a wind chill factor. 7kms and some tarmac and dirt track later, you pass through the tiny village of Antillon, where there are no facilities but a fabulous view from the top, with mountains in the distance. Next, you get onto a dirt track for the 11kms towards Pueyo de Fananas. This section is fantastic, as you walk along a ridge, with mountains to one side and rolling fields to the other. Flowers are in full bloom at the moment all along the track. There were no shops or bars in Pueyo de Fananas either, or in the next village, Ola. It was time to break out the emergency stash of chocolate bread rolls so survived.

The walk from Ola to Huesca is also very pretty. When you get about 6kms from Huesca, it'll be time to drop down off the high plain you've been walking on. Care will be needed on these steep narrow dirt paths, especially if it's wet, and walking poles will help. It'll take about 30 minutes of scrambling to get down. Then it's an easy 5kms walk to the Albergue. If you are in dire need of food and drink, Kitchen Nowa is almost the first building you come to. There's also a big supermarket a few hundred meters away from the Albergue front door.

It's a lovely albergue, with all mod cons so it should make for a nice stay. I've just got to work out what I need to buy for the next few stages, what there is to see, whether to press on after Bolea, which seems a short section. A quick tot up and about 240kms have been covered so far. Is there an official 'end' point on the Catalan?

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I think it’s kind of neat that you can’t always just walk into the next supermarket/cafe/restaurant and grab a bite. Whilst I understand that it’s one of the things people like about the Frances, to me it makes the quieter Caminos a little more special, more meaningful. It’s nice to be more mindful sometimes, I feel it makes us appreciate life just that little bit more….

 

[Elena peregrina]

A quick tot up and about 240kms have been covered so far. Is there an official 'end' point on the Catalan?

I think the official end point is Santa Cillia?

 

[Undermanager]

Day 11 - Huesco to Bolea
On first aid. I don't carry much with me as anything you do need can be found in pharmacies in Spain. However, I do carry a few small things as it saves faffing when you most need something, especially in the middle of nowhere. I carry a mix of sizes of invaluable Compeed plasters, and had to apply the first one today, to a small sore bit on the side of my foot. I know you wanted to know that . I've got a small tube of iodine, useful for any cuts and sores. I've got a small roll of zinc oxide tape for toes, applied the moment I feel a blister starting. I also have a tube of Gewohl cream for feet, a tube of Deep Heat, usually for when I can feel a muscle under strain and a tube of soothing cream that stops itching, for parts of the body that need soothing and itch-prevention from time to time .

The albergue is a classy place in Huesca and nice to stay in. There are plenty of facilities within a few minutes walk in this busy suburb. 10 minutes away is the centre of Huesca, which I didn't have the energy to visit yesterday. This morning, I left the Spanish pilgrim around 7.00am at the albergue, looking worryingly at an unhappy, swollen ankle. It's a real pain when you pick up an injury and have to decide what to do from a range of choices, all unpalatable. We'll see if he turns up later.

I passed through the centre, out to the other side quickly so have no idea if Huesca is just another shopping centre + church with yet another chain-smoking population of inhabitants? I'm assuming the health issues with fags have yet to reach most of the Spanish population? As I emerged from the city into the countryside, the dawn chorus was still erupting. However, I managed to drown out the racket by plugging in my headphones and putting the Cranberries on . 5kms later, along a nice tree-lined dirt track and around a reservoir, I was in the pretty village of Chimillas.

The stork on the church roof was pointing in a particular direction. I followed it, and moments later came across the welcoming Bar Al Merca de Chimillas. I assumed this was a sign from God and felt blessed. I stopped for a couple of long coffees and a snack. The final destination isn't far today and I still feel a bit tired from the last two longish stages so am taking it easy today.

It's a really beautiful walk from here to Bolea; great mountain views, photogenic old abandoned bulidings, rolling countryside, a bit of a forest walk, dirt track - what more can anyone ask for? If I was being picky, I'd ask for Bolea not to be on big hill at the end of a 20km hike, but there you go.

As you approach the pretty village of Bolea, you'll see it's on a big hill . It's not too bad to get up - shame the albergue is up to the top, then down on the other side and almost out the village, though . There were a few bars in the centre, lots of narrow streets, some people wandering around looking up as tourists do, a food shop with not much in it, a pharmacy and a Tabac shop - both closed but may be open later. I bought some cinnamon bread, good wine, some oranges and nuts for the next few days from the shop, as emergency rations, just in case. I wouldn't rely on stocking up here if that's what you were planning to do (as I was - whoops) - bring at least a few dried instant carbohydrate meals from Huesca if you think you'll need them. The Tabac shop may open later and you might be able to get a sandwich wrapped up at the bar - but don't think, 'supermarket' here.

The albergue in Bolea is good. There are some recent negative comments about the place in the comments book by a few people, but being a man of simple pleasures, I think for the €10 that's being asked for, they're talking b******. There's a working shower, toilet, a functional small kitchen plus dining area with small hob, microwave and fridge, plus a huge wonderful suntrap of a terrace. The bedroom is upstairs and is fine. It's 5 - 10 minutes to the bars, depending on whether you are going downhill or uphill .

That's about it. The decision tomorrow is whether to stop after 15kms in e.g. Sarsamarcuello and maybe visit the famed Loarre castle, or press on a bit further, possibly as far as La Peña. Splitting it up might even allow a side trip to the famed Riglos area. I'm pretty sure I have enough food for at least 24 hours, maybe 48 hours at a push but I suspect it won't come to that. I've looked around for a description of the next few stages, options, experiences etc but without much luck. Any pointers or suggestions gratefully received (before tomorrow ).

 

[Elena peregrina]

Day 11 - Huesco to Bolea
On first aid. I don't carry much with me as anything you do need can be found in pharmacies in Spain. However, I do carry a few small things as it saves faffing when you most need something, especially in the middle of nowhere. I carry a mix of sizes of invaluable Compeed plasters, and had to apply the first one today, to a small sore bit on the side of my foot. I know you wanted to know that . I've got a small tube of iodine, useful for any cuts and sores. I've got a small roll of zinc oxide tape for toes, applied the moment I feel a blister starting. I also have a tube of Gewohl cream for feet, a tube of Deep Heat, usually for when I can feel a muscle under strain and a tube of soothing cream that stops itching, for parts of the body that need soothing and itch-prevention from time to time .

The albergue is a classy place in Huesca and nice to stay in. There are plenty of facilities within a few minutes walk in this busy suburb. 10 minutes away is the centre of Huesca, which I didn't have the energy to visit yesterday. This morning, I left the Spanish pilgrim around 7.00am at the albergue, looking worryingly at an unhappy, swollen ankle. It's a real pain when you pick up an injury and have to decide what to do from a range of choices, all unpalatable. We'll see if he turns up later.

I passed through the centre, out to the other side quickly so have no idea if Huesca is just another shopping centre + church with yet another chain-smoking population of inhabitants? I'm assuming the health issues with fags have yet to reach most of the Spanish population? As I emerged from the city into the countryside, the dawn chorus was still erupting. However, I managed to drown out the racket by plugging in my headphones and putting the Cranberries on . 5kms later, along a nice tree-lined dirt track and around a reservoir, I was in the pretty village of Chimillas.

The stork on the church roof was pointing in a particular direction. I followed it, and moments later came across the welcoming Bar Al Merca de Chimillas. I assumed this was a sign from God and felt blessed. I stopped for a couple of long coffees and a snack. The final destination isn't far today and I still feel a bit tired from the last two longish stages so am taking it easy today.

It's a really beautiful walk from here to Bolea; great mountain views, photogenic old abandoned bulidings, rolling countryside, a bit of a forest walk, dirt track - what more can anyone ask for? If I was being picky, I'd ask for Bolea not to be on big hill at the end of a 20km hike, but there you go.

As you approach the pretty village of Bolea, you'll see it's on a big hill . It's not too bad to get up - shame the albergue is up to the top, then down on the other side and almost out the village, though . There were a few bars in the centre, lots of narrow streets, some people wandering around looking up as tourists do, a food shop with not much in it, a pharmacy and a Tabac shop - both closed but may be open later. I bought some cinnamon bread, good wine, some oranges and nuts for the next few days from the shop, as emergency rations, just in case. I wouldn't rely on stocking up here if that's what you were planning to do (as I was - whoops) - bring at least a few dried instant carbohydrate meals from Huesca if you think you'll need them. The Tabac shop may open later and you might be able to get a sandwich wrapped up at the bar - but don't think, 'supermarket' here.

The albergue in Bolea is good. There are some recent negative comments about the place in the comments book by a few people, but being a man of simple pleasures, I think for the €10 that's being asked for, they're talking b******. There's a working shower, toilet, a functional small kitchen plus dining area with small hob, microwave and fridge, plus a huge wonderful suntrap of a terrace. The bedroom is upstairs and is fine. It's 5 - 10 minutes to the bars, depending on whether you are going downhill or uphill .

That's about it. The decision tomorrow is whether to stop after 15kms in e.g. Sarsamarcuello and maybe visit the famed Loarre castle, or press on a bit further, possibly as far as La Peña. Splitting it up might even allow a side trip to the famed Riglos area. I'm pretty sure I have enough food for at least 24 hours, maybe 48 hours at a push but I suspect it won't come to that. I've looked around for a description of the next few stages, options, experiences etc but without much luck. Any pointers or suggestions gratefully received (before tomorrow ).

My notes about the section for Bolea to Sarsamacuello re availability of food (culled from various posts on this forum) are to buy food in loarre (on the way) buy lunch, dinner and breakfast for Sarsamacuello
+ lunch/dinner/breakfast for Ena (+ lunch for walk after Ena).
On way – food/bars at Anies (1 shop), Loarre (all services), Sarsamacuello– no services at all.

Hope this is helpful.

 

[Undermanager]

My notes about the section for Bolea to Sarsamacuello re availability of food (culled from various posts on this forum) are to buy food in loarre (on the way) buy lunch, dinner and breakfast for Sarsamacuello
+ lunch/dinner/breakfast for Ena (+ lunch for walk after Ena).
On way – food/bars at Anies (1 shop), Loarre (all services), Sarsamacuello– no services at all.

Hope this is helpful.

It's very helpful indeed. Many thanks. I've just emailed Sarsamacuello, to see if they think the social club will have dinner on in the evening. It will be Saturday after all . Can a man live on nuts, oranges, cinnamon bread and water alone?

PS I've just had a reply, that the Social Club will be serving food from midday to 6.30pm tomorrow, so decision made: Bolea - Castle Loarre - that long named place beginning with S that I can't pronounce anyway.

 

[Elena peregrina]

Can a man live on nuts, oranges, cinnamon bread and water alone?

Absolutely not

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Can a man live on nuts, oranges, cinnamon bread and water alone?

Good wine, you forgot to mention the good !
What, you thought we’d missed that little detail?

 

[Undermanager]

Good wine, you forgot to mention the good !
What, you thought we’d missed that little detail?

I've already decanted the remaining half bottle into a small plastic water bottle, ready for tomorrow ....

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

What, no breakfast?

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

decision made: Bolea - Castle Loarre - that long named place beginning with S that I can't pronounce anyway.

Good choice. I've not seen any indication of lodging in La Peña but I believe there is one bar and a bakery. More of a village than a town. Next day not far from Sarsacumuella is a ruined castle on the camino and not very far afterwards there is a side trip to Mirador de los Buitres, Vulture Lookout. At your daily distances you should have time for a visit but I skipped it so I can't say if the walk is worth it. I stopped at Ena's lovely albergue. The village houses are being fixed up for family weekends but there isn't anything in town. Botaya's lodging may be open for the weekend if you want to go further but call because it is something like a camp and may be full. Again, don't expect much in town. After leaving Ena and passing through Botaya I picked up some sausage at the souvenir shop at the new monastery of San Juan de la Peña.

 

[J Willhaus]

Good choice. I've not seen any indication of lodging in La Peña but I believe there is one bar and a bakery. More of a village than a town. Next day not far from Sarsacumuella is a ruined castle on the camino and not very far afterwards there is a side trip to Mirador de Buitres, Vulture Lookout. At your daily distances you should have time for a visit but I skipped it so I can't say if the walk is worth it. I stopped at Ena's lovely albergue. The village houses are being fixed up for family weekends but there isn't anything in town. Botaya's lodging may be open for the weekend if you want to go further but call because it is something like a camp and may be full. Again, don't expect much in town. After leaving Ena and passing through Botaya I picked up some sausage at the souvenir shop at the new monastery of San Juan de la Peña.

There is a cafeteria in the new monastery facility at SJdlP

 

[Undermanager]

Good choice. I've not seen any indication of lodging in La Peña but I believe there is one bar and a bakery. More of a village than a town. Next day not far from Sarsacumuella is a ruined castle on the camino and not very far afterwards there is a side trip to Mirador de Buitres, Vulture Lookout. At your daily distances you should have time for a visit but I skipped it so I can't say if the walk is worth it. I stopped at Ena's lovely albergue. The village houses are being fixed up for family weekends but there isn't anything in town. Botaya's lodging may be open for the weekend if you want to go further but call because it is something like a camp and may be full. Again, don't expect much in town. After leaving Ena and passing through Botaya I picked up some sausage at the souvenir shop at the new monastery of San Juan de la Peña.

Thanks for this info. Very useful. I'll have to look at the practicalities of Vulture Lookout and also Riglos, which I would like to go to (with an albergue?) after tomorrow. They both sound seriously uphill .

 

[davejsy]

What, no breakfast?

That is breakfast!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Thanks for this info. Very useful. I'll have to look at the practicalities of Vulture Lookout and also Riglos, which I would like to go to (with an albergue?) after tomorrow. They both sound seriously uphill .

I used my OSMand app to look at the way to Riglos and then getting back to the camino. I wouldn't do it. If you don't have the app visit OpenStreetMap.org. They may have a topo map available too. If you go down to Riglos and then stay down following the river to La Peña you will miss walking through this gap.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

There is a cafeteria in the new monastery facility at SJdlP

Great. When I was there in November 2019 the museum part was open and the souvenir stand where you bought the ticket but the rest of the place was deserted.

 

[J Willhaus]

In 2022 everything was open in the summer (except the hospederia which apparently has been closed since before COVID) Our cab driver told us they have a hard time finding workers out this far from town...

Also 2023, pilgrims told us it was open when we were hospitaleros in Arres in June.

 

[JabbaPapa]

From here, the tarmac route is quieter and less unpleasant, but seems to be mostly on an uphill gradient.

Tarmac or trail, it's anyway generally uphill 'til you get past the Sierra before Santa Cilia on the Huesca variant, or 'til you finish your uphill out of Logroño towards Santiago on the Lleida one.

One silver lining is that the more you walk on, the cleaner the air gets from the incrementally higher altitude.

 

[Elena peregrina]

It's very helpful indeed. Many thanks. I've just emailed Sarsamacuello, to see if they think the social club will have dinner on in the evening. It will be Saturday after all . Can a man live on nuts, oranges, cinnamon bread and water alone?

PS I've just had a reply, that the Social Club will be serving food from midday to 6.30pm tomorrow, so decision made: Bolea - Castle Loarre - that long named place beginning with S that I can't pronounce anyway.

Any info you can pass on about whether there are kitchen facilities in those albergues would be great. Then we’ll know whether to bring cookable food or lots of bocadillos and chocolate for those 2 days

 

[Undermanager]

Day 12 - Bolea to Sarsamarcuello
On things I could do with, plus excess items. I got the packing nearly right. So far, the only things I could do with is a small corkscrew and lip sun block, which I forgot to buy in the UK and have paid the price here. All good wine in Spain has a cork and I've had to go find a nice neighbour to open the wine bottle when one has been bought. I've not used my thermal long johns at all, even here in the pre-pyrenees. I've got a cotton t-shirt and a second pair of shorts that I doubt will be used either, plus too many spare USB leads that I bought along - what was I thinking? A short one and a 2m one rated for fast charging would have been enough. I haven't used my 20000mAh powerback yet, but it is still good to have as a back-up. The Momax 70W fast charger adapter continues to do sterling work. I could probably lose another kilo in the rucksack. I've also gone a bit mad with food supplies today, and managed to add another kilo to carry, and on the day I've done the most ups and downs, too!

I may have done Bolea an injustice. It has at least two open bars / cafes that I found last night. Next door to Cafe Rufino (there are two places / entrances called Cafe Rufino, one that looks closed and one bursting with activity), there's a shop called Zucrur, which does indeed appear to be a mini supermarket. The notice on the door said it was open from 10.00am to 1.00pm, not the most convenient for camino walkers. The Tabac was indeed open at 6.00pm when I walked past, but its food offerings were very limited indeed. The lady there pointed me towards Zucrur tomorrow. The albergue was fine. On reflection, I wonder whether the toilet in the kitchen, where the walls don't go up to the ceiling but are open to the kitchen, will catch on as a design feature in modern housing? It might create some interesting comedy moments when the albergue is full.

I could be very tempted to stay in one of the hostels in the village (eg Casa Rural Rufino ) if I was feeling the need for a drinking sesh or an upgrade from albergue living. I had a lot of fun in this old-world bar for a few hours last night, although by the end, my eardrums were bursting, as the drunker a group of lads got, the louder they got (surprise surprise). I went there looking for food around 6.00pm but they only had some tapas left. Then, just as I was about to leave, someone behind the bar asked if I wanted to eat and showed me the back and a beautifully laid out restaurant. 8.00pm was way past my bedtime so I declined and headed off back to the albergue. I've never gotten to grips with Spain's opening and closing times of different shops and bars, and their eating and not-eating times in the years I've been doing caminos!

I left about 7.00am this morning as usual. It was overcast with a few spots of rain about but nothing serious. Anies was the first village you come to after a pleasant walk, 6kms away. It was a large place and I found a cafe bar, but it was closed. I stopped to admire the views for half an hour at a seating place just as you leave the village. From here on, as you start ascending towards Loarre Castle, you get fabulous views along dirt tracks and across the plains. The closer you get to the castle itself, the harder and steeper it gets. Eventually, the castle comes into view and it's beaut, and gets even more impressive the closer you get to it! You should Google it's history but it's one of Spain's oldest. It's a great hike and is thoroughly recommended, but it's a knackering one to do. 13kms and four and a half hours after leaving Bolea, the dirt track emerged right at the entrance to the castle, and I was told I couldn't come in because I didn't have a ticket . I could have walked 300m back to where the car park was to get one but I wasn't that interested in visiting another castle, impressive as it is from the outside, so carried on down. It's clearly a big attraction as there were plenty of visitors.

The path down to the very pretty village of Loarre took no more than half an hour but it went past a campsite, where I stopped for a drink, rest and to admire the views. Then I carried on to the village, grabbed some cheese and other bits from the only shop open, and had some great tapas in one of the bars in the central square, mainly because it had started raining again. It was only an hour to Sarsamarcuello from here and it was just 12.30pm. If you wanted to visit the castle, and I'm sure it would make a great few hours, you could walk to Loarre village, then get a 10 minute taxi up, visit, then walk the 2 kms down to the village again via the road when done. It would be an option if the body wasn't quite up for the trek upwards.

By the time I got going, it was sunny again, or was that the beers I'd had? Either way, it seemed to take ages to get the last bit done, and the up-downs to Sarsamarcuello weren't over yet - it was really hard work at times. I made straight for the Social Club, which was just as well because it shut at 3.00pm not 6.00pm. One double egg and chips later, and the energy levels returned. I had kind of imagined yesterday some speciality meals pertinent to the area being offered up, but nope. It was egg and chips. The place opens up again at 7.00pm for a few hours, but I've no idea if that's for food as well.

The €8 albergue is another good one. All mod cons with kitchen, dining area, shower and bog. In line with every shower so far, it was super powerful and hot, and blasts the pains of the day away. Also in line with every albergue, it was very cold but slipped under some blankets after a shower and had a few hours sleep.

In total, today was nearly 20kms, and over 7hours (with breaks) - see the Wikilocs trail I've uploaded. I'd love a night in Riglos tomorrow but after today, am not sure how wise that is? Ena might be a better proposition. Will have to sleep on it ....

 

[Undermanager]

Day 13 - Sarsamarcuello to Ena
This is a fabulous stage, but mortals beware - it might kill you off. No seriously. It might!!

On earplugs and eye blackouts - I'd never leave home without a few dozen industrial earplugs in one of my bags. Quality ones with a high dB rating do the job, keeping out snorers and unhousetrained mobile phone users. Cheap ones just don't do the necessary. I also like to have a few pairs of airplane eye covers handy as well. They can be helpful if you are in bed before others, or want a lie in.

It was a balmy evening last night. I spent most of it on the grass outside the albergue, looking at the magnificent vista before me, sipping yesterday's leftover wine. It was also the only place I could get a decent mobile signal, as I attempted to put together a new playlist for tomorrow's walk. I popped into the Social Club again for a few beers later in the evening, as it's only a minute from the albergue. They weren't doing any food, though.

As usual, I left at 7.00am. You have over an hour of uphill slog out of Sarsamarcuello to look forward to, but there are many goodies when you start to get the worst over with. First up is another castle, Castillo de Marcuello. The backdrop of the plains far below make this very photogenic. There are a few associated buildings near it worth a look as well. You need to walk 500m or so to the ruins but I left that for another day.

Further along is the turnoff to Mirador de Los Buitres. I would say this is a 'must see' since you're just a couple of kilometers there and back. The track takes you up to a viewing point, where there are magnificent iconic views of rock formations, and where vultures fly about and mountaineers do their thing. I'm sure it makes most people go, 'WoW' so don't miss this one - it's probably the highlight of this Camino (so far). If you're lucky, you may see some of the vultures this area is famous for flying about but sadly, they weren't around today . One option if you aren't in a hurry is a stay at the hostel in Riglos and have a semi-rest day, watch the climbers, do a trek, visit the canyon etc.

After Mirador de Los Buitres, the dirt path is downhill all the way to La Peña. There are lots of loose stones on the track and a few hairy downhill clambers so walking poles are definitely helpful if you have dodgy body parts. This is a very pretty walk for a few hours through valleys and gorges, and you'll stop frequently to take photos. You eventually emerge from a gorge and after a few twists and turns, you arrive at La Peña, a collection of a few dozen buildings. It does have a bar and a bakery, too, apparently, but the trick of course is to arrive when they are actually open - almost no chance then . The bar seems to sometimes serve food but not today apparently (Sunday) although beer and ice cream were available (don't open the freezer yourself, though - a real no no in this bar). There was a working water fountain 20m before the bar, if you need to top up.

It took 6 hours to get from Sarsamarcuello to La Peña, including the hour side trip to Mirador de Los Buitres and a 20 minute stop at the bar in La Peña. From here to Ena is about 11kms away and it's all very pretty, uphill, through a forest and long!!!

When you come out of La Peña, there's a GR17 Camino sign pointing to Ena to the right after about 500m. I took that and clambered uphill for half an hour. Then I checked, didn't like this route and went back down to the road, knackered. I was a little confused by the lack of yellow arrows at this point but further along the road, you will pick them up again! You will turn right after another kilometre into the forest again. Someone must have bought a job lot of 'Ena - 10.5kms - 2hrs 10mins walking' signs and put them up everywhere. TAKE NOTE, this section took me nearly 4 hours, and it's nearly all uphill. I got lost once (30mins) but you need to ask yourself if you can do a nearly 10 hour walking day, 30kms, much of it uphill? I was hurting when I stumbled into Ena at nearly 5.00pm, my longest day by far.

You need to concentrate on this stretch to Ena. The yellow arrows start well, then do disappear for some stretches although they reassuringly seem to appear again when doubt creeps in. The forest walk is very pretty, often with a fast-flowing river down in the valley, and small pools and waterfalls nearby. There's a lot of uphill and big boulders to go over and of course, you need to keep looking out for directions, head up even though you are getting tired. It is really beautiful, though. The whole day is without doubt fabulous and it really helped having perfectly cool walking conditions all day long.

If I had known then what I know now, I don't think I would have attempted this section in one day from Sarsamarcuello. I would have stopped (if possible?) at La Peña, then walked to either Ena or Botaya the next day. If you are young and fit, it's fine, if you are clapped out, 60+, dodgy hips and knees like me, you may have a heart attack. The only thing is, I'm not sure what accommodation options there are in La Peña? Maybe look up the name of that bar I mentioned and phone them if your Spanish is up to it? Perhaps they do rooms, or know someone who does? Don't forget to post here, whatever you find out, though .

The good news in Ena is that it is a lovely, friendly, tiny oldie worlde place, and the albergue is top notch, with kitchen, wifi etc. There's no cafe, bar or shop but there is a tiny social club that may be open at some times at random hours for a beer.

There is still another 10kms of uphill to look forward to in the morning before the descent. Hopefully, I'll have a bit more energy at 7.00am to enjoy these wonderful hills. I should have just missed out the first week of this Camino and started in Monzon, Berbegal or Huesca, then gone slower and explored more in this far more interesting section. I never wanted the irrigation ditch experience anyway!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Let me verify the above. According to photo timestamps I, in my late sixties, left Sarsacumuella at 8:30 and arrived at Ena at 5:00. I didn't do the hour sidetrip or get lost for half an hour (thanks Wikiloc) but I did spend a half an hour lunching in La Peña Estación so @Undermanager and I spent pretty much the same time walking the actual camino.

 

[Undermanager]

Let me verify the above. According to photo timestamps I, in my late sixties, left Sarsacumuella at 8:30 and arrived at Ena at 5:00. I didn't do the hour sidetrip or get lost for half an hour (thanks Wikiloc) but I did spend a half an hour lunching in La Peña Estación so @Undermanager and I spent pretty much the same time walking the actual camino.

Well done.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 14 - Ena to Santa Cilia.
I spent some time taking photos around the Ena last night, having had a fabulous dinner with the bits I'd carried here (has packet soup ever tasted so good?) and generally relaxing in the lovely albergue.

Today was a late start, at 8.00am, and what a beautiful start to the day it was. I was looking forward to this, hoping the morning would be similar to yesterday afternoon and it didn't disappoint. Because of the exertions of yesterday, today should be a relatively short 20kms give or take. It turned out to be just over 22kms. After a coffee and the last of the cupcakes, I set off!

It had obviously been raining overnight, it was fresh and cool, and there was lots of mist about. This made for some nice snaps, especially when the soaring mountains came into view after a bit. By the time I'd gotten to Boyata 7kms and just under two hours later, the mist had all but burnt off and blue sky was bursting through. There were lots of birds singing this morning, as I made my way upwards along the track, especially cuckoos. Boyata was another supremely pretty village worth a wander for a bit. I didn't find anywhere open for a coffee although there appears to be a Social Club on the left as you enter the village.

It's mainly uphill to Boyata but nothing outrageous. The next two or three kilometers, however, will definitely get the juices flowing, as you rise about 250m up a steep dirt track a kilometer outside of Boyata to the Monasterio Nuevo de San Juan de la Peña. All good fun, though, with fabulous views and clear, pine-scented air. I went inside the new monastery, but only to visit the excellent cafe, for a rejuvenating fresh chocolate croissant and cafe con leche. Then it was off towards the old monastery. And surprise surprise - I bumped into my first group of pilgrims, who'd started the Aregonés Camino a day or two earlier.

The old monastery is very pretty on the outside but I didn't venture inside. It was such a great day I decided to press on. The path down to Santa Cruz de la Serós varies but there is a very exciting, long downhill narrow path to contend with, complete with big drops to one side, plus snow-capped mountains in the distance. It all makes for some great photos.

I passed straight through Santa Cruz de la Serós. It's some kind of tourist village, very pretty with at least four restaurants and bars that I saw but I was in the mood for walking. You think most of the hard work has been done for the day, but there's one more mountain to overcome! It's not as hard as earlier, but there are still some sweaty moments.

You'll eventually come to the lovely Binacua, on top of a little hill. Sadly, according to the local I spoke to, there's no bar or cafe, so pressed on to Santa Cilia half an hour away.

Santa Cilia is a lovely small historic town, old houses, narrow streets etc, as well as new parts. The municipal albergue was very easy to find in the old town and is really nice, run by the ever helpful Victor. It has a fabulous sitting room area, nice dorms and showers, although the showers are a bit of a squash. I had a fabulous lunch / dinner there as soon as I arrived, got some clothes washed, drank too much wine and chilled in the late afternoon and early evening. The albergue is also next to a bar or two, which may come in handy later. Victor will provide lunch, dinner and breakfast at the albergue - very welcome after living off of starvation rations for the last few days .

And now, the Camino de Catalan has been completed! I'll keep posting for the next three or four days, until I get to the CdeF, as I know that it's a natural extension to this one for many people. But then I will stop posting.

I still haven't decided what to do next. I'm not keen at all on busy caminos, or getting involved in booking beds and getting to a place quickly to ensure I have a bed. I am half thinking about getting over to the Norde Camino, or just quitting while I'm ahead and going home, back to metal detecting and hunting the UK's history 6 days a week. Also, unfortunately, the outside of my right knee is now regularly collapsing under me and causing a lot of momentary pain, as well as my hip constantly seizing up. The problems may go away, but I suspect they both will need a few weeks' rest, as it has all happened before. We shall see.

These Catalan notes are obviously just my perspective. Others may have different views, may have different opinions about stages, how long they take to walk, views on facilities etc and you should read others' views when making your own plans. If you like solitary caminos, this should definitely be on your list. There are a few places where accommodation may be an issue, and some stages may be a bit long. I've given my opinions twice already on the first half of the camino v the second half. I left on the 23rd April and definitely got lucky with the weather, having mostly cool walking conditions and serious rain on just half of one day. Leaving early to the middle of May or at least after the May 1st bank holiday may be a better idea.

I'd better start having a closer look now at the next few days ....

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I really appreciate the detail in your post's, will certainly be re-reading the thread should I get the opportunity to walk the Catalan.

 

[Magwood]

Leaving early to the middle of May or at least after the May 1st bank holiday may be a better idea.

We shall be setting off from Montserrat on 14 May. We all (three) have many Caminos under our belts and are no longer precious about the thought of missing a stage if it’s not very appealing. I would prefer to save my camino days for the wild mountains rather than slogging along tarmac. I will read through your very helpful notes again and those of @peregrina2000 before setting off.
Thank you for so much detail. Many will find it extremely useful.

 

[Elena peregrina]

We’re on the Cami Catalan now. At Linyola tonight. We’re really enjoying it - the fields are green (despite the drought), the poppies and mountain views are spectacular and local people are really pilgrim friendly. The road walking is a bit of a pain at times, but not that bad.

 

[Magwood]

We’re on the Cami Catalan now. At Linyola tonight. We’re really enjoying it - the fields are green (despite the drought), the poppies and mountain views are spectacular and local people are really pilgrim friendly. The road walking is a bit of a pain at times, but not that bad.

Thanks @Elena peregrina. It’s so good to get a variety of perspectives. Will you comment more here if you have time/energy

 

[Elena peregrina]

Thanks @Elena peregrina. It’s so good to get a variety of perspectives. Will you comment more here if you have time/energy

Sure . I’ll post any current information about albergues, route changes etc. one thing we’re learning to plan for is that on Mondays all bars and restaurants and often the village shop is closed. So best to bring food. Also for the municipal albergues you need to call the ayuntamiento a few days ahead to let them know you’re coming - and do they can let you know how to get in.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

The old monastery is very pretty on the outside but I didn't venture inside.

Oh, noooo!

It's not too late to taxi back. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site!

Peregrinas, don't make the same mistake. Check out reviews (4.7/5) and photos at the Google Maps webpage for this place.

Google Maps

Find local businesses, view maps and get driving directions in Google Maps.

maps.app.goo.gl

 

[Undermanager]

Day 15 - Santa Cilia to Artieda
The albergue in Santa Cilia was excellent. There was a very small bar open near the albergue that didn't serve food. There was a bakery close by that never opened. I didn't see any other shops in this large village. The good news was that you could have a good lunch, dinner and breakfast in the albergue the day I was there. If food is available, eat and hoard any leftovers - you may need something for lunch the next day! Access to food, any food, is a bit of an issue again on this camino!

I was out the door at 7.30am, after a good breakfast and hoarding the cakes and an apple for lunch. After about 6kms of walking by the main road, you arrive at the large and impressive Puente La Reina de Jaca, spanning an equally wide river. Once you've taken a few snaps, it's on to Arres. The dirt track has a few ups and downs from the bridge to Arres and some nice views but Arres, a tiny village on a hill is very pretty. It has an albergue that looked awesome from the outside, and bonus news, a large cafe / bar in the village, too. It might make a really nice stopover if you're not in a hurry. I stayed for a long coffee.

The rest of the 30km day is about pounding very long, mostly straight, mostly flat dirt tracks with the odd deviation to get to Artieda. You'll pass a few more towns and villages on hills, but the one that will have you most in awe is Artieda itself. You'll stand at the bottom of the hill and think, 'I have to walk up that massive hill if I want to eat / stay at the albergue'. It took about six and a half hours of walking today, plus a few stops, to get here. It's a nice enough day.

It's worth the walk up. Once you are at the top, you'll be in a very pretty village, in a lovely albergue, with a great bar / restaurant. I got there minutes before 3.00pm, when the restaurant closes, although it opens again at 7.00pm for dinner and drinks. You can also order breakfast here, which you'll collect from a box in the morning - we'll see what that is all about tomorrow. There are showers but no kitchen.

The village is worth a wander but there didn't seem like any other shops or bars. The albergue is entertainment central, but you may be so knackered as to not really care!

 

[J Willhaus]

Glad to know the reviews of Santa Cilia have improved since last summer. It sounds like the hospitalero is more welcoming than last year's hospitalera. We volunteered at Arres in June 2023 and it is a lovely village. Just an FYI for future pilgrims, you can take the "bike route" (which is flat) and avoid the climb up and down and bypass Arres if you don't plan to stop there overnight or for refreshment. There is a grocery store in Puenta la Reina de Jaca if you want to make the side trip for provisions.

There are no shops in Artieda. Only the albergue with associated bar/restaurant.

 

[oursonpolaire]

Oh, noooo!

It's not too late to taxi back. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site!

Peregrinas, don't make the same mistake. Check out reviews (4.7/5) and photos at the Google Maps webpage for this place.

Google Maps

Find local businesses, view maps and get driving directions in Google Maps.

maps.app.goo.gl

I would agree with this with lots of sparkly images. The old monastery at San Juan de la P is one of my top ten travel experiences-- it's like a Maxfield Parrish painting with forests peeking through the romanesque arches-- quite like a visit to another planet in time.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 16 - Artieda to Undués de Lerda
The very friendly and helpful albergue with wonderful attached restaurant in Artieda was excellent. I was in a 4 bed room with magnificent views and the sound of cuckoos cuckooing. Lunch when I arrived yesterday mid afternoon was a wonderful set meal, a green bean and walnut hot dish, followed by a chicken leg and a sort of Mexican bean side, a pineapple and coconut flan all washed down with beer, wine, water and coffee (no wonder I slept well for a few hours afterwards). In the evening, I had freshly made croquettes and more beer. It was just what was needed. Breakfast was excellent as well. Just remember your room number, as you need to get the food boxes with your room number on it from both the shelf and out of the fridge. There's bread, ham, cheese, coffee, cake, juice and fruit. There is actually a small kitchen / sitting area, which I didn't spot yesterday with microwave, kettle, toaster, fridge and washing machine.

The total price for absolutely everything, including the albergue, beer, wine and all meals was €40, which must make it the best value by far, given the super quality of food served up. Definitely recommended for the food alone. It's the first place in Spain, however, where the shower was only luke warm. You had to be in and out pretty sharpish , and (of course) the locks on the mens' bogs don't work. The floors are all wooden and the noise reverberates from different bedrooms so earplugs at the ready! But I'm being picky. It's olde worlde charm was great.

I'm not sure where I'll end up today, but presumably either Undués de Lerda about 22kms away or Sangüesa 32kms away. It's a longer stage but Sangüesa would be my preferred option for food, getting some cash out of an ATM, maybe getting some new hiking shoes (mine have holes in the soles, which I never noticed before leaving) and to make the next stage to Monreal a bit easier. The body may have other ideas, though. We shall see. Whatever happens, it's a beautiful, cool, blue-sky day! Unlike yesterday, there is no head-on wind.

The walk to Ruesta is fantastic. You walk alongside a reservoir and then mostly through a forest to the utterly fabulous Ruesta. If you get a chance, stay here! It's essentially a sprawling, ruined castle with a beautiful albergue in amongst the ruins in a rural ruined village setting - utterly unique. There's a cafe here, too, in a lovely setting, above the river and reservoir. The lovely hospitalera asked that you phone ahead a day or two if you want to stay and / or eat, so all your requirements and needs can be met. English is spoken. Could this be a Top 5 albergue in all the caminos over the years I've been on? I think the answer is a definite, 'Yes'. Adjust your plans and go out of your way to stay. You can thank me later!

The forest walk continues from Ruesta for 6 or 7kms through the forest, but it's all up up up. You'll be mighty relieved when you burst out of the forest to find yourself on top of a fabulous high plain with massive views, and the only way is down! It is so beautiful and fresh up here. You can see for miles today. Not a single cloud. Glorious.

Eventually, Undués de Lerda will come into view. It's another ridiculously pretty village on top of a frigging 'big' hill . After battling to the top and following the arrows, there is the bar, in front of you like the Pearly Gates . You check in at the bar for the albergue, plus it's the place to grab a beer con limon and a fabulous bocodillo. Do I stay or do I go? I stayed. It's a lovely day, about 2.00pm so I want to relax and enjoy it. Beer (with lemon) and a tuna bocodillo are ordered, and I check in. They are super friendly and helpful. They do loads of food in their restaurant so won't starve. I'll be eating at 8.00pm .

The albergue is another wonderful place, with all mod cons, basic kitchen, washer dryer, incredible shower rooms etc etc. The main thing, though - the views! They are extraordinary out of the bedroom door window as well as the three wetrooms (I'm the only one here at the moment). So comfy.

Tomorrow - just looking at the Lumbier Gorge, wondering about a detour, maybe stay in Sangüesa, dump the rucksack and have a day out? Suggestions, maps, routes welcome ...

Today has been an excellent day.

 

[J Willhaus]

You can also take a slight detour tomorrow on your way to Sanguesa to stop at and see the castle in Javier if you are into castles at all. (Look on Google maps.) There a couple of hotels, cafes, and restaurants so you can break for refreshment. If you feel like a tour, they also have an audio tour in English. Doesn't take too long and at least you can get a stamp there in the gift shop. It is the birthplace of Saint Francis Xavier. If you were going to be in the area more than just a day there is a lot to see. Above the nearby town of Yesa is the Leyre Monastery. South of Sanguesa is the walled city of Sos del Rey Catholico and of course the Lumbier Gorge is a slight detour on your way forward to Monreal.

Some background about Artieda from the local taxi driver. A few years ago some young people (I think a group of 5 friends) from the "city" moved there and starting sprucing the town up. They also have a campground and some vacation rental apartments. When we were there a couple of years ago they were using "work away" volunteers to help out in the busy season. The town has no store, but vendors come to the town one or two times per week to supply vegetables, meat/fish, and we were told that there is even a "bank" that comes in a van to allow the older villagers to do their banking and official business. It is kind of a holiday destination along with Ruesta and last summer staff from these albergues called over to Arres a couple of times to let us know that they were completely booked out and there would be no room for pilgrims. This region is popular for parties, meetings, and weddings.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

You can also take a slight detour tomorrow on your way to Sanguesa to stop at and see the castle in Javier if you are into castles at all. (Look on Google maps.) There a couple of hotels, cafes, and restaurants so you can break for refreshment. If you feel like a tour, they also have an audio tour in English. Doesn't take too long and at least you can get a stamp there in the gift shop. It is the birthplace of Saint Francis Xavier.

La Javierada is a romeía (mini-pilgrimage) that goes to the Castle of Javier in March in honor of Saint Francis of Javier.

Javierada - Wikipedia, la enciclopedia libre

es.wikipedia.org

 

[Undermanager]

You can also take a slight detour tomorrow on your way to Sanguesa to stop at and see the castle in Javier if you are into castles at all. (Look on Google maps.) There a couple of hotels, cafes, and restaurants so you can break for refreshment. If you feel like a tour, they also have an audio tour in English. Doesn't take too long and at least you can get a stamp there in the gift shop. It is the birthplace of Saint Francis Xavier. If you were going to be in the area more than just a day there is a lot to see. Above the nearby town of Yesa is the Leyre Monastery. South of Sanguesa is the walled city of Sos del Rey Catholico and of course the Lumbier Gorge is a slight detour on your way forward to Monreal.

Some background about Artieda from the local taxi driver. A few years ago some young people (I think a group of 5 friends) from the "city" moved there and starting sprucing the town up. They also have a campground and some vacation rental apartments. When we were there a couple of years ago they were using "work away" volunteers to help out in the busy season. The town has no store, but vendors come to the town one or two times per week to supply vegetables, meat/fish, and we were told that there is even a "bank" that comes in a van to allow the older villagers to do their banking and official business. It is kind of a holiday destination along with Ruesta and last summer staff from these albergues called over to Arres a couple of times to let us know that they were completely booked out and there would be no room for pilgrims. This region is popular for parties, meetings, and weddings.

That's incredibly useful info. Much appreciated. It sounds like you had a good experience volunteering - what a great place to do it, too! I'm now thinking of a visit to the castle and maybe stay in Sanguesa for a night, then possibly the gorge the next day. Or maybe dump the rucksack in the albergue and taxi, bus, hitch to the gorge in the afternoon. Decisions decisions. When the weather is so beautiful, it's hard to make them ....

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

If you stop in Sangüesa ask the caretaker about a bus that can take you at least part way to the gorge. That way, with the reduced distance, you might be able to walk the gorge way and make it to Monreal too. I remember being told that it was an early bus and the station was close to the albergue.

 

[J Willhaus]

That's incredibly useful info. Much appreciated. It sounds like you had a good experience volunteering - what a great place to do it, too! I'm now thinking of a visit to the castle and maybe stay in Sanguesa for a night, then possibly the gorge the next day. Or maybe dump the rucksack in the albergue and taxi, bus, hitch to the gorge in the afternoon. Decisions decisions. When the weather is so beautiful, it's hard to make them ....

Yes, two years in a row we volunteered at different albergues on this route. Its a lovely area with equally lovely people.

 

[Undermanager]

I have a friend staying in the Sanguesa albergue. He is not happy , cold showers etc. I think I made a very wise choice. Both albergue and restaurant / bar here in Undués de Lerda are exceptional. I could live here .

 

[Undermanager]

Day 17 - Undués de Lerda to Lumbia
Another evening spent in another beautiful village on a hill! The Aroganés Camino section is really one to put on the list if you've not been to this stretch before. I never realised how gorgeous this area was until the last few days. So many fabulous locations! The more I know about the area, the more I should have slowed right down. There is a load to see. The castle I was going to visit was passed far too early for Spain so I assumed it wasn't open but looked nice and worth a visit. The hostel in Undués de Lerda is fabulous. But the food in the restaurant is magnificent. Their croquettes followed by their classic hamburger, washed down with a Somontano Glarima de Sommos 2022!!!

I still haven't decided what to do tomorrow, although the albergue in Sanguesa has been ruled out - a friend was staying there last night and wasn't happy with what his €5 got him .

The walk to Sanguesa was wonderful. At 7.00am, it was blue sky, very cool, fabulous views. Sanguesa itself feels like it has seen better days and is best to leave as quickly as you can. I had jobs to do; tried and failed to buy new walking shoes, got some ATM cash out, bought some sunblock for my beautiful lips, had breakfast plus ablutions ! I didn't find any shoes I liked, but Jeez are footwear expensive in Spain. How can trainers cost €150+ ? Sanguesa only had one shop I could find for hiking shoes so will have to wait. It's not desperate, yet. Then left pronto.

If you are going to the gorge, follow the camino arrows out of Sanguesa, cross a bridge and turn right. As you leave town, there's a large Dia supermarket with toilet just before a petrol station, which is handy as its open 9 til 9. You can't miss it. You need to know when to stop following the yellow arrows, though. I got sidetracked, took funny routes, followed arrows in autopilot mode and ended up walking a few extra kilometers. All good fun but very hot so maybe not what you want. You are aiming for, 'Foz de Lumbier' on the map on Google Maps, Organic Maps etc. I followed the main road for four or five kilometers to Liédena from Sanguesa then a dirt track another similar distance, which went under a motorway, to the start of the gorge. There were three or four water fountains on this latter stretch.

On the gorge itself - the entrance is a tunnel carved through rock, then you get a kilometre of gorge, towering cliffs, fast water, soaring birds, then another tunnel. There is a carpark with water fountain, but it's on the Lumbier side, not the side walkers will generally arrive on. It's an impressive gorge. Arrive through a tunnel, take a few snaps, maybe have a snack, dangle your feet in the freezing water, walk the 1km gorge and exit through another tunnel, and you're done. Maybe an hour, hour and a half max.

Hotel Iru-Bide is in Lumbier, about 3kms away from the gorge exit. Your options are pretty limited for accommodation here. Is this the only place? You could sweet talk or hitch a ride back to Sanguesa and stay there if you're a masochist. However, a lovely Spanish girl stopped on her bike and struck up a conversation. I asked her to ring the above hotel and reserve me a single room, which she did. So after visiting the gorge, and having a beer and sandwich in the centre of Lumbier, I checked in. By this time, it was about 2.00pm and sweltering. Definitely need to start planning to stop around 1.00pm or 2 00pm if it's this hot!

It was €50 for one pilgrim, for a nice big perfectly adequate and comfy ensuite room with terrace. It's a bit like a Travel Lodge or Premier Inn if from the UK, except bigger and with a terrace overlooking the main road. They do dinner, breakfast and there's a bar. It's just before you enter the small town so no hill to climb this time, unless you want to visit Fontana Bar, I think it was called, 300m extra walking up in the centre (on a hill, where else). Great views, beer, sandwiches and a stamp from the bar, by the way!

The hotel using the translator app said I was very lucky to get a room as they are often sold out at this time of year, and are booked up weekends. If you are planning to stay here, don't do what I did and book on the day! Best to book your date as soon as you possibly can, especially if it's a Friday or Saturday. Given the limited / non-existent alternatives, you don't want to be stuck in Lumbia after a long day in the sweltering heat with no room at the inn! I don't generally stay in hotels, but the €50 seems very good value for what you are getting and as an albergue break so as a one-off, it's recommended. I did just over 26kms today.

It's getting close to having to decide what to do next. Home, CdeF or Norte ....

 

[Undermanager]

Day 18 - Lumbia to Tiebas
The hotel was very comfy last night. But for some reason, the lovely lady working there couldn't take payment until someone else turned up 'later'. They also only did €24 set meals in the hotel, nothing smaller. In the end, I had a few drinks then it was back to my room for the emergency lemon cake rations and bed!

I set off at 8.00am after a tasty breakfast in the hotel. It was cold at 8.00am but boiling hot by 10.00am and stayed that way all day long. You leave on a road, then you have a few kilometers of dirt track to the tiny hamlet of Aldunate, and then you are on tarmac again. It's quite a long slog uphill out of Aldunate (just a few houses and a church) so mentally prepare yourself. The first water fountain I saw was in Idocin, 16kms away from the start, so bring plenty of water if it's a hot day as you will need it! Monreal, a few kilometers on, is the first place you might be able to get something to eat. I got the last slice of something, just as the first bar I found was closing. There was a shop marked on the map but it looked like some kind of social services centre when I had a look.

I had a close examination of my right shoe in Monreal. It's officially falling to pieces, the sole, and the stitching front, side and back . The pounding has taken its toll. How long will it last?

It was very hot but still early, around midday, when I was in Monreal. I had planned to stay at the albergue, which might have been the sensible option, but decided to press on. I was keen to get on the CdeF and see if it was packed and a problem as soon as possible, so I could then go home. There was an albergue in Tiebas, another 12 or 13kms on, depending on the route you took. There is a bike route, relatively flat but a bit longer. And there's the camino route, on wide and narrow dirt tracks hugging the hillside, lots of ups and downs, stones on uneven paths and going past three or four pretty churches with a few houses nearby. In the end, I did a mixture of both. You'll need some kind of map, of course. I mainly use Organic Maps. It's not perfect but mostly gets me from A to B without too much hassle.

I got to the Albergie door in Tiebas about 4.30pm but there was a note on the door saying it wasn't open to 6.15pm, so a couple of hours to wait. No great disaster, despite being knackered, hot sweaty etc. There was a bar. I resisted the temptation to have any sleep-inducing alcoholic drinks and stuck with lemonade with some sugar snacks that should keep me going til tomorrow. I'll be at the Puenta de Reina before midday tomorrow, and either having fun or thinking it looks like a nightmare and looking for a flight home by the evening .

The last post on this thread will be tomorrow.

 

[Undermanager]

A Spanish chap, who I met on Day 1 just messaged me, to say Puenta de Reina was very busy when he arrived yesterday. People are booking up beds days in advance. This doesn't bode well ...

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

You could try Obanos where the Aragonese meets the Francés or walk, taxi or train to Pamplona from Tiebas. The latter means you miss the Ermita de Santa María de Eunate though.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 19 - Tiebas to meñeru
The albergue is fine in Tiebas with all mod cons. I had a top bunk for the first time this trip. It's a pain but okay now and again. There is a big bar / social club here just up from the albergue, which has great views, and does meals after 8ish.

I left just after 6.00am, mainly because a Spanish bloke woke everyone up with his 6.00am alarm, then spent 15 minutes whispering loudly to his neighbour! It is also due to be very hot later so wanted to get the bulk of the walking done by midday.

The first few kilometers run by a motorway so aren't very inspiring, but you soon turn at 90 degrees to the traffic and noise and the walking becomes really nice, through rolling countryside and a few tiny villages. It took 2 hours to get to Enériz, a nice big village but the bars were closed when I passed through. The albergue in Enériz would make a nice stopoff.

As you get off the dirt track and onto a main road just before Obanos, you'll see the road on the left taking you directly to Puenta la Reina just a few kilometers away. Unless you have a good reason for wanting to climb up to Obanos, I recommend just walking the direct route along the road and saving time and a lot of energy (and you will end up back on the main road anyway). Have a look on the map. You can't miss it. Having been up to Obanos, it seems like a highly contrived Camino detour, especially given that Puenta la Reina is just another 20 minutes away and stuffed with cafes, shops etc.

Puenta la Ruenta is a very pretty town. It has lots of albergues, shops, cafes, bars and other things. It also has an outdoor activities shop so I now have a nice new pair of hiking shoes! Holes burst through both soles this morning so it was great timing. After buying the shoes, grabbing a snack and a few drinks, I took an executive decision to press on to Mañeru, about 6kms along the CdeF. It's seriously hot here at the moment and this section was also up hill. But all was well.

At 1.00pm, I arrived at the lovely El Cantero albergue, which is really posh and well run compared to what I've been used to. Nothing was booked but it's clear that people are mostly booking at least the next day in advance. Everything is washed and clean, dinner is booked, I've met some lovely people for chats, something you get used to not having on the Catalan and Aregonés, and I'm looking forward to tomorrow. It's one day at a time from now on. Finisterra again? Home in a few days? Who knows .....

Thanks for reading these Catalan and Aregonés notes. I hope you find them useful as well as others' accounts if you are planning to do these highly recommended routes. Time to stop posting now.

Bye ......

 

[J Willhaus]

Stayed at El Cantero when it first opened a few years back. Nice place! Thanks for your thread. I am sure it will help others.

 

[Josep Montserrat]

Day 19 - Tiebas to meñeru
The albergue is fine in Tiebas with all mod cons. I had a top bunk for the first time this trip. It's a pain but okay now and again. There is a big bar / social club here just up from the albergue, which has great views, and does meals after 8ish.

I left just after 6.00am, mainly because a Spanish bloke woke everyone up with his 6.00am alarm, then spent 15 minutes whispering loudly to his neighbour! It is also due to be very hot later so wanted to get the bulk of the walking done by midday.

The first few kilometers run by a motorway so aren't very inspiring, but you soon turn at 90 degrees to the traffic and noise and the walking becomes really nice, through rolling countryside and a few tiny villages. It took 2 hours to get to Enériz, a nice big village but the bars were closed when I passed through. The albergue in Enériz would make a nice stopoff.

As you get off the dirt track and onto a main road just before Obanos, you'll see the road on the left taking you directly to Puenta la Reina just a few kilometers away. Unless you have a good reason for wanting to climb up to Obanos, I recommend just walking the direct route along the road and saving time and a lot of energy (and you will end up back on the main road anyway). Have a look on the map. You can't miss it. Having been up to Obanos, it seems like a highly contrived Camino detour, especially given that Puenta la Reina is just another 20 minutes away and stuffed with cafes, shops etc.

Puenta la Ruenta is a very pretty town. It has lots of albergues, shops, cafes, bars and other things. It also has an outdoor activities shop so I now have a nice new pair of hiking shoes! Holes burst through both soles this morning so it was great timing. After buying the shoes, grabbing a snack and a few drinks, I took an executive decision to press on to Mañeru, about 6kms along the CdeF. It's seriously hot here at the moment and this section was also up hill. But all was well.

At 1.00pm, I arrived at the lovely El Cantero albergue, which is really posh and well run compared to what I've been used to. Nothing was booked but it's clear that people are mostly booking at least the next day in advance. Everything is washed and clean, dinner is booked, I've met some lovely people for chats, something you get used to not having on the Catalan and Aregonés, and I'm looking forward to tomorrow. It's one day at a time from now on. Finisterra again? Home in a few days? Who knows .....

Thanks for reading these Catalan and Aregonés notes. I hope you find them useful as well as others' accounts if you are planning to do these highly recommended routes. Time to stop posting now.

Bye ......

Thank you for your comments and information.
They will be very useful to me.
I arrived in Tàrrega from Port de la Selva.
When the time comes, I'll continue the Catalan-Aragonese

Bon Camí

 

[Magwood]

Thanks @Undermanager for all the useful info and insights. I’m sure it will be very useful to many, including me next week. Buen continued camino (maybe!)

 

[Elena peregrina]

Thank you so much for all your information, insights and suggestions. They’re helping us every day on our Cami Catalan

 

[Elena peregrina]

Thanks @Undermanager for all the useful info and insights. I’m sure it will be very useful to many, including me next week. Buen continued camino (maybe!)

Hi there. Hope your camino has started well. We’re in Huesca now. Are you planning to start a live thread? If so, I’m happy to post info about albergues, open bars/shops in the smaller villages etc?

 

[Magwood]

Hi there. Hope your camino has started well. We’re in Huesca now. Are you planning to start a live thread? If so, I’m happy to post info about albergues, open bars/shops in the smaller villages etc?

Many thanks Elena. I am posting, but direct to my blog here. Any additional info you can share will be gratefully received though.

 

[Elena peregrina]

Thanks @Undermanager for all the useful info and insights. I’m sure it will be very useful to many, including me next week. Buen continued camino (maybe!)

Many thanks Elena. I am posting, but direct to my blog here. Any additional info you can share will be gratefully received though.

Will do.

 

[Elena peregrina]

If I had known then what I know now, I don't think I would have attempted this section in one day from Sarsamarcuello. I would have stopped (if possible?) at La Peña, then walked to either Ena or Botaya the next day. If you are young and fit, it's fine, if you are clapped out, 60+, dodgy hips and knees like me, you may have a heart attack. The only thing is, I'm not sure what accommodation options there are in La Peña? Maybe look up the name of that bar I mentioned and phone them if your Spanish is up to it? Perhaps they do rooms, or know someone who does? Don't forget to post here, whatever you find out, though .

Posting as requested. We took your advice and broke the Sarsamacuello to Ena stage into 2 days (Sarsamacuello to La Peña with side trips to the vulture lookout and then short walk to Ena next day (12km) So glad we did as it gave us time to enjoy the amazing views along the way and provided some relief for our tired bodies . There is somewhere to stay in La Peña Estación. We decided to splash out and have no regrets. Just a short walk (800m) up the street above the La Peña village is Yeste with the amazing casa rural Ger. https://casaruralger.com/ A lovely restored house hosted by the welcoming Bea and Oroel. Double room including a good breakfast was 80 euros. They offer dinner ( good price) and also gave us a bocadillo and fruit for lunch the next day. We’re now at the beautiful restored village of Ena at the lovely albergue there.

 

[Undermanager]

Update - Day 32 - Leon ....

Having completed the Catalan and Aregones, and finding myself at Puenta la Reina (with newly bought shoes), I had to decide what to do. The above caminos are very quiet but with all the facilities you need. The Frances is very different! I decided to set off and take it one day at a time, not generally being keen on loads of people about. The plan was to head home if it got too crowded or boring.

However, after a few weeks, I'm generally having a blast. On the plus side, it's been fun having loads of people about and chatting (and having drinks). Most nights, there's the communal meal, which is great about 3 times in 4. The weather has been fabulous, the walking a doddle and I'm feeling great, no injuries.

The negatives are that there is a lot of walking by roads, some of the albergues are a fu***** disgrace (damp + smelling of / taking the cat pi33) and boy is it super, super busy. Pilgrims are everywhere you look, albergues can be booked up days in advance and sometimes, it's been very hard to find a bed. I've met pilgrims who have the entire walk booked and fair play to them. As much as I hate that, I've now started to book a few days in advance. It's not uncommon to find people walking 30, 40 and even 50kms to get a bed! (I did a 47kms day). My advice FWIW: don't walk out of big cities on a Saturday, check holiday days carefully, and avoid walking between the main stages given in guide books! Booking does have the advantage however, that you can chill at cafes along the way, rest when you want and arrive at your leisure without having to faff about, looking for a place etc. The other thing: cost. Typical abergues are €15 - €20, a few less, a few more. That's 50% more than on the Catalan generally. I've also noticed food, especially snacks and drinks are a bit pricier - not outrageously so but noticeable so something to think about if that is an issue for you.

But I'm now in the lovely city of Leon in a nice hotel overlooking a historic courtyard and having a rest day, walking just 10kms later on, to get out of the 'stages' jumps, the smallest stage so far. Friday night was pumping until late but some great bar areas - definitely worth a night out. The weather is great, too. Although I've walked to Santiago from here before, the plan is to continue on, just for fun. This morning's job is to buy a better poncho and ditch my plastic bag version, then set off on Day 32 around midday for the 2 hour walk to my new residence. Onwards ....

PS If you don't want to stay in Leon, La Virgin del Camino is a lovely little satellite town less than a few hours outside of Leon. It's a modern town on the main road but has lots of little cafes about down side streets, all the shops you are likely to need and just a nice open place for a stopover.

 

[Undermanager]

Update - Day 37 - Trabadelo

Added up the Wikilocs trails this evening, and I got 999kms from Montserrat .

Setting off for O Cebreiro and beyond tomorrow. Pushed on to to Trabadelo today after not being impressed with Villafranca - the town is on a massive incline plus roadworks at the bottom end near Albergue Leo, and it seemed where a lot of people were stopping? There are only 2 others in my dorm tonight in Trabadelo. General comments: it's getting very hot now, scorching by 1.00pm. Sun protection, drinking enough and setting off early all important. There are a lot of people coughing and spluttering in albergues at the moment, including someone in my dorm tonight - a good reason to stay in single rooms? I've been lucky so far and avoided all medical problems. I've met a few pilgrims who have had stuff go walkies - HOKA shoes, quality walking poles etc. I never leave stuff about. Shoes go in a bag in my rucksack, poles fold down etc. Trust no one? Not been booking anything in advance for 4 days now. It seems much quieter than it was. Cherries are in season. Can't stop buying them. So delicious!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Added up the Wikilocs trails this evening, and I got 999kms from Montserrat .

Congratulations. Nice to see it's 999. Allows you to see the odometer turn over.

 

[Undermanager]

Update - Day 44 - Ventosa

So, 44 days after starting in Montserrat, just outside Barcelona, and 1177kms walked, I arrived in Santiago this morning. Someone has taken down the scaffolding from around the Cathedral so it doesn't look very good now. The toy train is still running though, which is a relief.

I met up with the Spanish chap who I started out with on Day 1 from Montserrat. He arrived yesterday, having taken the Invierno from Ponferrada, a slightly longer route but far, far quieter the the CdeF. This last 100kms on the CdeF is truly awful; coachloads of tourists being picked up and dropped off, parties of schoolkids, big groups being 'guided' along a section, a lot of road or by-road walking. Oh, and muppets galore in the albergues, who haven't yet worked out that e.g. watching videos with the sound up, no earphones, while munching on biscuits from the world's most crinklely packets, is maybe not a good idea at 11.00pm. Is that a cultural thing or was she just a twa*?

So now, onwards. With a week left, I plan to walk to Finisterra and Muxia over perhaps 5 or 6 days, then go back to Santiago and take a 25min train to A Coruña. I've stopped off tonight in the highly recommended albergue in Ventosa, as the humidity was getting higher and higher and I was knackered after yesterday's 43kms. It's the second most expensive one I've stayed in at €20, but is really beautiful, with a bar about 10kms outside Santiago on the way to Finisterra. Definitely recommended. I have a recurring back twinge that starts after 20kms so am being really careful now, and the shoes I bought in Puenta de Reina are on their last legs . Will they last a week longer. ?

 

[J Willhaus]

Are you in Ventosa or Santiago? I thought Ventosa was back in Rioja or Castille y Leon? Wonderful report of your trip so far. Enjoy! We love Muxia the best although Fisterra is also nice.

 

[Undermanager]

The final post!!!

It's taken 47 days of walking (plus 3 more before and after the walk) and 1230 kms, but the caminos Catalan, Aregones, Frances and Finisterra/ Fisterra from Montserrat (outside Barcelona) on to Santa Cilia, Puenta la Reina, Burgos, Leon, Santiago and finally Muxia is now complete! I decided against going on to Finisterra / Fisterra as I'd been twice before, and I really liked the first visit to Muxia. But now I'm done. It's time to go home!

It's been bags of fun and always interesting, a real adventure as with all previous caminos. I've loved meeting loads of people from everywhere, walking sometimes very long distances every day mostly in the warm sun with changing scenery, staying in different places every night. The communal meals have often been the highlight of the day, with some great meals often served up with a wonderful opportunity to get to know people. Goodbye (for another year), however, to the endless, uninspiring and unimaginitive bocodillos, that tasteless stodgy white bread served up with just about everything and the cheese / salami snacks! I won't miss days like arriving in Muxia, where everywhere was shut til late because it was Sunday or where cafes are open for food after 8.00pm, when I just need to sleep after walking 30kms! I won't miss the snoring, the couple of damp albergues that resulted in bad insect bites on both occasions, the ridiculous number of bogs with no lock, or seat, or toilet paper and the odd one with no hot water! It was great, though, arriving on the coast at Muxia on that final Sunday, even if I went to bed starving!

I went through two pairs of trail shoes pounding the trails and roads, lost a baseball cap, towel and toothbrush and spent about £2500 for everything over 50 days; flights, food (communal meals, posh meals, supermarket food, coffees, beer, wine and snacks), transport to and from the starting and finishing points, accommodation (albergues plus 7 or 8 basic and not so basic hotels), replacing shoes and buying an Altus poncho. I was very lucky to have few health issues on this trip; sore / bruised feet in the first few weeks, sore shoulders at the start, complaining knees and hips most days (normal for me at home), insect bites and sleep deprivation when I got unlucky with bad snorers for 4 days on the trot, and a cold that came and went in 4 days.

Next year - I'll probably do the Norte followed by the Portuguese, but who knows. I'll definitely be investigating noise cancelling earplugs...

Thanks for reading these notes. They are just one perspective, however, just one set of experiences. Read others for other points of view and experiences as they may be completely different to mine, then take your pick. All 47 stages are organised on Wikilocs if interested. Just search for routes by Undermanager.

Until next year, byyyeeeeee.

 

[Josep Montserrat]

It has been a pleasure to read you.

Buen Camino to life

 

[timr]

@Undermanager Just to reiterate thanks for the effort and time you generously put into your reports, always informative and laced with humour and common sense!
They really do help other people with planning, and allow others to share the experience and the enjoyment. Tim

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@Undermanager Just to reiterate thanks for the effort and time you generously put into your reports, always informative and laced with humour and common sense!
They really do help other people with planning, and allow others to share the experience and the enjoyment. Tim

Ditto!

 

[Elena peregrina]

@Undermanager Just to reiterate thanks for the effort and time you generously put into your reports, always informative and laced with humour and common sense!
They really do help other people with planning, and allow others to share the experience and the enjoyment. Tim

Totally agree - thanks so much @Undermanager for all the information. It was invaluable when we walked Cami Catalan and Aragones camino a couple of weeks after you.