LIVE from the Camino BP on the Viejo June-July 2023

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 0: Pamplona

I arrived to Pamplona from the Camino Baztán today. Tomorrow is my first day on the Camino Viejo and... I don't know a lot about this route. I know I should go to Hiriberri tomorrow, so I phoned the Casa rural Itigoien Etxea... several times, before they finally answered.

I have a couple of guides from the Internet, @Caminka 's guide from 2012 (?) and @WestKirsty 's recent threads about the Camino from Pamplona. I wonder how all this will turn out... It seems there is very little pilgrim traffic on this route. I kind of know my way to Miranda de Ebro (the first week). After that comes unknown terrain until Aguilar de Campoo where the Viejo merges with the Olvidado from Bilbao. I will take one day at a time and see how far I can get...

Today I finally got a grip, slapped myself in the face and downloaded WhatsApp after several years of hearing about it on the Forum. Let's see if it can facilitate my Camino...

I will be back tomorrow!

 

[filly]

Whatapp should at least facilitate communication with folks back home! Great for sending photos and ‘free’ phone/video calls if you have wifi or included data tarif. If you have an iphone, then imessage is good too.

FYI I am somewhat of a technophobe, but thanks to Magwood, my New Year’s Resolution was to subscribe to Wikiloc. A real blessing for not getting lost and recording my steps.

Ultreia e Susteia!

 

[WalkingInGers]

It looks like that I will be leaving Pamplona on September 18th on the Olvivado and crossing into the Primitivo. 45 days.
Buen Camino

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

The on-line guide I am using isn't selling this Camino at all. They told me to brace myself for "a boring walk next to the highway". But it is on the Vía Verde, the disused railway! Greenery, mountains approaching in front of me, broad dirt roads and bridges. Flowers along the road. It has obviously been raining here. Sure, the highway still runs to my left but I haven't given it a thought for the last few hours. It gradually separates from the Camino once the Vía Verde starts before Sarasate. (Of course, leaving the industrial suburbs of Pamplona was a whole other story). There are cafés sprinkled along the way (well, in the suburbs of Pamplona and then at least every 7 kms I think) so no need to walk hungry today. Currently in Irurtzun, heading for Hiriberri.

 

[Stivandrer]

Good reading, you all. Keep it up !!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 1: Pamplona - Hiriberri, 30 kms?

I might have underestimated this Camino, but I thought there wouldn't be any signs for it from central Pamplona. I didn't bother looking for arrows. Instead I walked out to the suburbs of Berriozar and Berrioplano, as I knew this was the right direction. I saw the first arrow on a sign in the industrial suburb and from there I could follow the arrows with no problems. The waymarking has been surprisingly good for being a lesser known Camino. Could it be the Amigos from the Camino de las Asturias who painted them? The Asturias is the same as the Viejo until Miranda de Ebro, according to the guide I am using: here

After the suburbs of Pamplona, the Camino follows a country road next to the highway. Most of the time there are bushes and trees that hide the traffic to your right. The sights to the left are beautiful: hills, mountains and small villages among the fields. I didn't mind walking next to the highway at all. But there is a patch where you have to walk on the road next to the cars (it is a smaller road than the highway, but still with heavy traffic). It was scary. There was not enough room to walk on the left side of the road so I walked on the right side, which means I couldn't see the trucks coming from behind and passing a few inches from me. This was no more than a few hundred mtrs though. Then the Vía Verde - a country road following the old railway - started, which was surprisingly nice. It gradually separated itself from the motorway and I could easily veer off to the bar-restaurant in Sarasate, one of several places where you can stop for coffee on this stage. Then to Irurtzun, with its two gigantic cliffs as a dramatic backdrop. With the hills all around, Irurtzun reminded me of Ponferrada!

Irurtzun would be an ideal place to stay because it is large enough to have all the facilities you need. But I pushed on to Hiriberri, another 7 kms. No more Vía Verde, but a quiet road on asphalt to Egiarreta. This time without any traffic at all. I think I went wrong in Egiarreta, but I am not sure. I pushed through an overgrown path and thought I was lost. I walked into thick woods and saw on the GPS that I was actually walking away from Hiriberri. Suddenly I emerged on a broader path and stumbled upon a sign pointing to... Hiriberri. Saved! When you get to Egiarreta, just pay attention to the signs and to the guide you are using.

Once I was on the right track I walked through the woods on a comfortable dirt road that peacefully guided me to the hamlet of Hiriberri. That last part was not a slog, but the best walk of the day! The woods were completely silent; enchanting, and the ground was so soft to walk on...

I stay at the casa rural Irigoien Etxea, 25 euros with breakfast. The owner will make me a tuna sallad this evening because once again my food supply is dwindling. (I forgot to buy things in Irurtzun.) No bar or restaurant here, they are at least 4 kms away. Time for a siesta...

 

[filly]

Good to follow you. You write so clearly and it feels spontaneous! Onwards…

 

[VNwalking]

Really enjoying this already.
After this train of pilgrims, it's going to get crowded soon, given your and @WestKirsty's wonderful descriptions.

I saw the first arrow on a sign in the industrial suburb and from there I could follow the arrows with no problems.

There are arrows?!
Wow, that's a surprise. But it sounds like they stop where you got directionally challenged?
And I love walking on vias verde!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Wow! I have been walking with the Sierra de Aralar the whole morning; the mountain/rock(s) that started in Irarutz and followed me all the way here, to the tidy small town of Lacunza. Coffee break. My head has been going left-right like a windscreen wiper the whole day. I had no idea I would have this scenery around me. The abrupt corner of the cliff looks like a spaceship in the clouds.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

arrows?!
Wow, that's a surprise. But it sounds like they stop where you got directionally challenged?

I looked closely at the map now: Yes, I forgot to make a turn in Egiarreta! I am sure there were arrows somewhere but I missed them. By coincidence, the country road I was walking on turned towards the official Camino. There was an overlap with an overgrown path where the road was on the verge of dissolving in front of me - but seconds later I emerged, somewhat surprised, on the official track.

One should turn right in the center of Egiarreta, towards the woods, not walk straight through towards the fields as I did!

 

[VNwalking]

I had no idea I would have this scenery around me.

The virtual thread opened my eyes big time. It's an amazing landscape. Full of dolmens on the northern side...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 2: Hiriberri - Altsasu, 28 kms

Last night I had a homemade tuna sallad and tortillas at the casa rural. A real meal after eating mostly bread, cheese and yoghurt for several days. Or not eating at all in pueblos without bars/restaurants (on another Camino). I was a bit sad to be having dinner on my own, but the owner chatted with me from time to time. Apparently there was a french couple staying as well, but they were off hiking somewhere in the area so I didn't meet them. And a construction worker who lives there Monday to Friday - since seven years..! He seemed to tip-toe around the house so as not to disturb me, so it was a quiet evening all in all.

The next morning the lady prepared breakfast for me at 6:00. She charged only 30 euros for the whole stay: room, dinner, breakfast - and the fruits and goodies I had nibbled on from the kitchen table since yesterday. I desperately told her I should be paying more after ravaging her house, but she wouldn't listen. She threw in some nuts, fruits and canned sardines for me to eat until the next village.

I highly recommend this place, although I think many pilgrims will prefer to stay in Irurtzun which is a town. Hiriberri is just a hamlet. But Hiriberri has another card up its sleeve: it evens out the two first stages from Pamplona. I did 30 kms yesterday, and only had to do 28 today.

I walked at the bottom of the Sierra de Aralar. I had a good view of the mountains. The highest points were shrouded by clouds which made them look mysterious. There were steep cliffs running on both sides of the camino for several hours. Total vulture zone! But the crest was too far away for me to spot any birds. I understand why @WestKirsty made a detour in the area, around Irurtzun, to watch them at close range.

I rejoiced when I noticed that the Camino veered off towards the mountains so I could get a closer look. I marvelled at the sight all the way to Lakuntza where I had coffee. On this stage as well, there are several places to have a break. I think there are bars in a village even before Lakuntza, but I didn't look for them.

After Lakuntza: a sprinkle of villages with smallish industrial suburbs. Back on the carretera. But only for an hour or so. Strangely, this is the only place where I got to see the vultures. About 20 of them circled next to the carretera in the noisy suburbs! Maybe they had spotted me and decided to come down from the crest to grab a slice..!

Then more country roads, woods, pastures with goats... My online guide deplores that there is not enough "nature" on this stage. I don't know what they are talking about. Except for the part in the suburbs, I have been walking peacefully far away from heavy traffic. But: almost the entire stage is on asphalt, except for a few kms in the woods.

I only got confused a couple of kms before Altsasu. After leaving Urdain and walking over the railway, I couldn't interpret the signs. (There were three options where to go). For the first time I searched my position on the GPS linked to my online guide. I walked exactly where the purple line would take me. Which was weird: at one point I was walking through the woods, between the trees, without even a visible trail to follow. Just like yesterday, I started to worry. But after a few minutes I was back on a larger path where the arrows reappeared. Apart from this confusion, which only lasted about 15 minutes, the signage has been very good. For the most part I didn't need the online guide since there were arrows or large Camino stickers where I needed them.

So I only walked a few minutes in the high grass in the woods. But it was enough for having a tick crawling on me when I undressed later in my room. I have now searched every inch of my body and clothes, still I feel phantom ticks wandering all over me!!

I stay at Hotel Iribure down by the carretera. 40 euros on booking. Tomorrow Salvatierra and I am back on the Camino Vasco that I walked in 2019. But I won't be passing through the Tunnel of San Adrián again, right?? I need oxygen if I ever go up there again. Oh, and Salvatierra has a laundromat! Can't wait!

I'll be back!

 

[VNwalking]

It sounds like there are some amigos or genies or someone marking the way (at least this first part), which is again a surprise. Who are they, I wonder? Are people along the Camino aware of it?

But I won't be passing through the Tunnel of San Antonio again, right??

No. Not unless you get seriously off track, heading N or NW from where you are. West. You want to go West.

 

[OzAnnie]

Then more country roads, woods, pastures with goats... My online guide deplores that there is not enough "nature" on this stage. I don't know what they are talking about.

The pics are beautiful Your heart must be singing.
Thanks for sharing BP and buen camino

 

[Leemac40]

Your walk is messing with my Camino plans for September! Planned to walk to Burgos after Baztan, I now want to follow your footsteps as it looks beautiful

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

There are cafés that open early in Altsasu. After that, everything was closed along the way. Perhaps I start walking too early. Therefore, the truck-stop restaurante El Ventorro, where I am now, came as a blessing..!

I am back in País Vasco. I have yet to see the famous dolmen before reaching Salvatierra. "The dolmen is really rad!" says my online guide assuringly. Well I'll be the judge of that...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 3: Altsasu - Salvatierra, 25 kms

Rain was in the forecast today, but I have arrived safely in Salvatierra and still nothing. Maybe this evening.

Today's stage was one third in the woods, one third on the road and one third with open fields. It was not as scenic as the two previous days but I still had nice views of the mountains this morning.

In Egino I followed the tracks up the hills which was the only ascent of the day. I am glad I did since it took me further away from the motorway and made me walk in the woods a little longer. I had to open and close many gates, but I didn't see any cattle. You can also walk on the carretera further down. In that case this stage is totally flat for 25 kms!

After Llarduia the Camino stopped short at the train station and the railway tracks. No bridge but several signs saying it is forbidden to walk on the tracks. I had to check with the online guide to understand that they actually wanted me to cross the tracks. There was a picture of the platform and where to go. I felt like a criminal but there was no other way to get to the other side. Right there I stumbled upon some peregrino street-art à la Moranchel, with multicolored stones, poles and ceramics forming a sort of benches (?). It looked like benches to me anyway. I could sit on it. Art or rest area? Who knows. Picture below.

Everything was closed along the way so my first break was the truck-stop El Ventorro in San Román. Shortly thereafter, I obeyed my guidebook and made a detour to see the prehistoric dolmen in Egilatz. Picture below. It was the first dolmen to be discovered in Spain in the 19th century. It is a kind of primitive cemetery and it was once much larger than today: 60x30 mtrs. I read this on the information panel and pondered a bit about what had happened there, then I continued to Salvatierra.

I stay at hostal José Mari: 20 euros with shared bathroom just like four years ago. The laundromat is still only 50 mtrs down the street and I intend to use it..!

As for the guidebooks, I am switching to Gronze for the next stages until Miranda de Ebro, since I am on the Camino Vasco now. Gronze is the G.O.A.T, as the youngsters say nowadays ! Tomorrow, I am on familiar ground all the way to Vitoria-Gasteiz.

Tag along!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Are people along the Camino aware of it?

The lady in Hiriberri and the owner of the hostal in Altsasu both knew about the Camino, as well as one or two people I chatted with along the way. Yesterday a man came up to me on a bike and asked if I was walking the Camino. He then escorted me to the Iribure restaurant in Altsasu. So it is pretty well known, I think! Much more than I would have thought.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Your walk is messing with my Camino plans for September! Planned to walk to Burgos after Baztan, I now want to follow your footsteps as it looks beautiful

You can walk the Viejo, as I do, from Pamplona until Puebla de Arganzón and then walk to Burgos along the Camino Vasco! In other words: You would still reach Burgos from the Camino Viejo!

 

[Leemac40]

You can walk the Viejo, as I do, from Pamplona until Puebla de Arganzón and then walk to Burgos along the Camino Vasco! In other words: You would still reach Burgos from the Camino Viejo!

I only have 2 weeks

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I walked this stage four years ago but I don't remember anything. It is like walking the Camino Vasco for the first time..! I only remember the little detour to the town of Dulantzi, where I am now, hopping from one café to another. I was hungry all the way from Salvatierra. That's 12 kms of agony! I am not leaving Dulantzi until I have plowed through all existing cafés and panaderías in the center.

Apparently there is an albergue here. But I am heading for my auto-check-in hotel in Vitoria-Gasteiz. Rain is in the air, but I dodged it so far.

 

[NorthernLight]

What is that small stone structure on the sidewalk on the far side of the stream? An old well?

 

[VNwalking]

Your walk is messing with my Camino plans for September! Planned to walk to Burgos after Baztan, I now want to follow your footsteps as it looks beautiful

You can still walk to Burgos!
Walk out of Pamplona on the Viejo, then follow the Via de Bayona all the way to Burgos after that. It's a superb Camino.
Edit. Now I see BP has already said the same thing!

only have 2 weeks

Probably enough time?
From Salvatierra, where the Viejo meets the Vasco-VdB, it took me a week.

 

[VNwalking]

I am not leaving Duluntzi until I have plowed through all existing cafés and panaderías in the center.

May you find the best napolitanas and stay dry!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

What is that small stone structure on the sidewalk on the far side of the stream? An old well?

I have no idea! Nothing comes up on Google maps...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 4: Salvatierra - Vitoria-Gasteiz, 28 kms

The day started without breakfast and 12 hungry kms to civilisation. The detour to the town of Dulantzi is well indicated, next to an ermita. I think most pilgrims take the detour to have a coffee break there.

Dulantzi is 1 km off Camino. I had to cross a railway bridge that also felt as if it was 1 km, since it was tossing and turning and took forever to get me to the other side.

I stopped in several bars in Dulantzi to rest until I got going again. I refused to go back the same way I came (over the railway bridge and back to the ermita): it would add kms. I thought I could make my own shortcut to next village Elburgo. I walked on the road Gasteiz Kalea as far as I could, then Alegria Errepidea, then I turned right onto a dirt road in a little woods (road Del Molino Bidea, second picture below). It was nice to invent a trail on my own, if only for half an hour. Suddenly the large white house (third picture) appeared in front of me and I thought I was walking onto someone's private property. But the road continued behind the house, where the arrows from the official way appeared. I can recommend this alternative! Just take care when walking on the carretera because there was not much of a margin to the cars. The safe alternative is of course to go back over the railway bridge towards the ermita and join the Camino there.

It started to drizzle, then rain. For the first time since Bayona I had to fish out my umbrella. I walked through the remaining little villages, past an airport in miniature - for model aircraft I think - and entered the suburbs of Vitoria-Gasteiz, a big city with more than 200.000 inhabitants.

My auto check-in Hotel Centro Vitoria gave me the wrong number, or the wrong receit, to my room. I had to stray along the corridors and pass by every door with my electronic card to find the one room that gave me a green light. Same thing for next arriving client who in turn tried to open my door: I instructed him to equally roam the corridors until he hopefully would find the right number. No staff to ask of course. Auto check-in, love it...

There are lots of Tour-de-France commercials, stands and information desks occupying the main squares in Vitoria-Gasteiz, and the weather is grey and chilly. Still the plazas are so beautiful..! On the telly in the bars, I see people getting ready for San Fermines week in Pamplona (running with the bulls). I guess that is the only thing they will show on TV next week. Oh, it feels nice to relax in a bar on the Plaza España and watch people go by..!

Tomorrow I want to go to Miranda de Ebro. The albergue has rave reviews. Above all, I need to cut down on expenditure after having spent 47 euros on my artificial intelligent but malfunctioning hotel in Vitoria-Gasteiz. But Miranda de Ebro is about 38 kms from here an my feet have been feeling weird all day. I don't know what it is. I think I will try to reach Miranda tomorrow, knowing I could do an emergency stay after only 19 kms in Puebla de Arganzón should anything go wrong. There is an albergue there as well, and the Pensión Pili nearby only charges 20 euros I think.

Good night!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Here it is: the split between Vía de Bayona and Camino Vasco. Four years ago I went to the left, towards Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Now: right to Burgos. Although I am not going to Burgos since I am walking the Camino Viejo... It is complicated..!

 

[SabsP]

Here it is: the split between Vía de Bayona and Camino Vasco. Four years ago I went to the left, towards Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Now: right to Burgos. Although I am not going to Burgos since I am walking the Camino Viejo... It is complicated..!

View attachment 150964

You did not stay then at la Puebla de Arganzon

Hope the descent to Villanueva de la Oca was not too difficult?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

You did not stay then at la Puebla de Arganzon

Hope the descent to Villanueva de la Oca was not too difficult?

That was the easiest part of the day, compared to the drama that followed..!

 

[laineylainey]

Day 4: Salvatierra - Vitoria-Gasteiz, 28 kms

The day started without breakfast and 12 hungry kms to civilisation. The detour to the town of Dulantzi is well indicated, next to an ermita. I think most pilgrims take the detour to have a coffee break there.

Dulantzi is 1 km off Camino. I had to cross a railway bridge that also felt as if it was 1 km, since it was tossing and turning and took forever to get me to the other side.

I stopped in several bars in Dulantzi to rest until I got going again. I refused to go back the same way I came (over the railway bridge and back to the ermita): it would add kms. I thought I could make my own shortcut to next village Elburgo. I walked on the road Gasteiz Kalea as far as I could, then Alegria Errepidea, then I turned right onto a dirt road in a little woods (road Del Molino Bidea, second picture below). It was nice to invent a trail on my own, if only for half an hour. Suddenly the large white house (third picture) appeared in front of me and I thought I was walking onto someone's private property. But the road continued behind the house, where the arrows from the official way appeared. I can recommend this alternative! Just take care when walking on the carretera because there was not much of a margin to the cars. The safe alternative is of course to go back over the railway bridge towards the ermita and join the Camino there.

It started to drizzle, then rain. For the first time since Bayona I had to fish out my umbrella. I walked through the remaining little villages, past an airport in miniature - for model aircraft I think - and entered the suburbs of Vitoria-Gasteiz, a big city with more than 200.000 inhabitants.

My auto check-in Hotel Centro Vitoria gave me the wrong number, or the wrong receit, to my room. I had to stray along the corridors and pass by every door with my electronic card to find the one room that gave me a green light. Same thing for next arriving client who in turn tried to open my door: I instructed him to equally roam the corridors until he hopefully would find the right number. No staff to ask of course. Auto check-in, love it...

There are lots of Tour-de-France commercials, stands and information desks occupying the main squares in Vitoria-Gasteiz, and the weather is grey and chilly. Still the plazas are so beautiful..! On the telly in the bars, I see people getting ready for San Fermines week in Pamplona (running with the bulls). I guess that is the only thing they will show on TV next week. Oh, it feels nice to relax in a bar on the Plaza España and watch people go by..!

Tomorrow I want to go to Miranda de Ebro. The albergue has rave reviews. Above all, I need to cut down on expenditure after having spent 47 euros on my artificial intelligent but malfunctioning hotel in Vitoria-Gasteiz. But Miranda de Ebro is about 38 kms from here an my feet have been feeling weird all day. I don't know what it is. I think I will try to reach Miranda tomorrow, knowing I could do an emergency stay after only 19 kms in Puebla de Arganzón should anything go wrong. There is an albergue there as well, and the Pensión Pili nearby only charges 20 euros I think.

Good night!

Really enjoying your posts @Bad Pilgrim . Between you and @WestKirsty , I have put the Viejo on my "hope to do next" list. Thanks for this.

 

[WalkingInGers]

Really enjoying your posts @Bad Pilgrim . Between you and @WestKirsty , I have put the Viejo on my "hope to do next" list. Thanks for this.

I am leaving in September to do the Olvidado.

 

[WestKirsty]

That was the easiest part of the day, compared to the drama that followed..!

My goodness, I'm in suspense! I hope everything is ok!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

My goodness, I'm in suspense! I hope everything is ok!

Oh yes, I just added kms by going wrong... So it was around 40 kms today in the end

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 5: Vitoria-Gasteiz - Miranda de Ebro, 38 + ? kms

Holy cow. Two stages in one day. Also getting lost and adding kilometers to that. Luckily, I am in one of the coziest and best equipped albergues I have ever seen on a Camino. Spotlessly clean. It was a blessing to arrive here. Gronze says 8 euros, but the hospitalero charged only 6. I will chat more with him later to find out the history behind this marvellous place. But right now... I am too tired to talk.

I had forgotten about the ascent between Subijana and Villanueva de la Oca, as well as the difficult descent: steep, pebbles, stones... I slipped a few times but I never fell.

I did a stop in Puebla de Arganzón, the only long pause for the day. Now I know there were two peregrinas in Puebla, who will arrive here in Miranda de Ebro tomorrow, but I didn't see them. There were foreign tourists, families, the usual cyclists... The plaza was busy and friendly, so I hung around for a while. After two tortillas and two cafés con leche I was good to go again.

The second half of the day would not be as peaceful. I followed the arrows and other signs to a solar panel park, around the fence of the whole thing, then I went over the highway. Just for fun I checked my GPS and saw that I was walking in the opposite direction of Rivabellosa (last stop before Miranda de Ebro according to Gronze). I was heading for a village called Ribaguda on the A-4304. I checked with Gronze who said I should have "ignored" the arrows at an earlier point. Sure, that is the thing to do: not follow the arrows!? I was baffled because even where I was standing, every sign pointed me to Ribaguda. Perhaps the arrows in Ribaguda then takes you to Miranda de Ebro? I didn't want to find out because that would add several kms to my walk. I looked up Rivabellosa on my GPS and aimed for it. A long walk among cars, trucks and highway bridges ensued. Finally in the center of Rivabellosa, the signs reappeared. I don't know where I went wrong but it must have been around the solar park. My advice to future pilgrims who want to reach Miranda de Ebro and see a yellow arrow in the solar park is:
1) Run for your life
2) Haul out your GPS or equivalent technology and look up Rivabellosa
3) Find the nearest way to Rivabellosa and its Plaza los Fueros. The signs from the square take you to Miranda de Ebro.

I estimate I lost about an hour zig-zagging in the industrial suburbs because of this. I could see Miranda de Ebro in the corner of my eye but it didn't get any closer. Now the sun was out and it got unbelievably hot. I had been walking since 6 a.m. and started to despair. At least I ran into a vending machine in a corner in Rivabellosa. I bought myself a large Coca Cola and also had a swift café con leche in one of the bars. Rivabellosa is one of those affluent suburbs or "pedanías" to larger towns such as Miranda de Ebro. It was tidy, middle-classy and a bit posh.

From Rivabellosa you cannot see Miranda de Ebro anymore because of the rolling fields, and I walked right out in the middle of them. I got disoriented and felt I was bypassing Miranda de Ebro. I wondered if I wasn't supposed to follow these waymarks either? Suddenly the town appeared, seemingly from nowhere, in the fields. After a hideous walk in the industrial suburbs - Miranda de Ebro is the second largest city after Burgos in the region - I arrived at the albergue in the city center. Everything exquisite. I think I will be alone here tonight. Although according to the register there has been people staying almost every day.

I threw my clothes in the washing machine, collapsed in my bunkbed and slept for a while. No time to visit the city. I just need to eat, and sleep...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

... Exquisite, except that an aggressive homeless person has tried to get in to the albergue two times now. The disadvantage of having an albergue in the middle of a city. It is a stand-alone building near a square. There is a fence around half the building, so the front door is off limits. The rest of the albergue is directly towards the sidewalk. Half an hour ago he was banging on the walls and screaming by the windows to let him in. The hospitalero doesn't answer the phone so I guess I need to call Guardia Civil if he comes back. I think he could easily climb the fence and disturb even more if he wants too. He knows I am in here and he is angry with me. I think no sleep tonight.

 

[laineylainey]

Do take care

 

[VNwalking]

Yes. Do. Call the GC, definitely, if he comes back. Are there metal shutters you can roll down? And bolt the door.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Yes. Do. Call the GC, definitely, if he comes back. Are there metal shutters you can roll down? And bolt the door.

There are metal bars in front of all the windows and I bolted the door. Problem is the noise he can make and prevent me from sleeping. Or teaming up with someone outside to disturb me. It is Saturday night after all.

 

[laineylainey]

Please call the policía

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Please call the policía

It has been quiet for an hour. Just that if he has got nothing better to do, he will come back. There is a café five meters from here on the other sidewalk with lots of people but I hear them closing now. Yes I have the number to the police so I call them if something happens.

 

[laineylainey]

Hope you get some sleep soon and your day tomorrow is another good one. Loving your posts and photos.

 

[Leemac40]

You can still walk to Burgos!
Walk out of Pamplona on the Viejo, then follow the Via de Bayona all the way to Burgos after that. It's a superb Camino.
Edit. Now I see BP has already said the same thing!


Probably enough time?
From Salvatierra, where the Viejo meets the Vasco-VdB, it took me a week.

I have been investigating and it is definitely doable, do you know if it is possible to alter the stages? On Gronze it seems there is not much "wiggle" as accommodation is few and far between?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

The GR99 and GR1 that I am following cleverly take me through the most beautiful places in the area. Beautiful hamlets, water fountains in almost every one of them, cute little trails through the woods, dolmens abound... almost too good to be true. GR signs are easy to follow, and there are yellow arrows too. But no bar until here, Fontetxa. Soon continuing to Baños de Sobrón.

 

[WestKirsty]

The GR99 and GR1 that I am following cleverly take me through the most beautiful places in the area. Beautiful hamlets, water fountains in almost every one of them, cute little trails through the woods, dolmens abound... almost too good to be true. GR signs are easy to follow, and there are yellow arrows too. But no bar until here, Fontetxa. Soon continuing to Baños de Sobrón.

View attachment 151069

Sounds like today is a good one after all your drama yesterday!

I'm so excited for you

 

[peregrina2000]

I’m surprised to see the fields so brown. Do you think this is drought-related?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 6: Miranda de Ebro - Baños de Sobrón, 23 kms

The Viejo is not a well known Camino. Yesterday I said to the hospitalero that I was walking the Camino Viejo, not the Vía de Bayona. He lightened up and said that he had walked the Viejo himself. He then said it was important that I call the priest in Pancorbo for tomorrow's parochial albergue. But Pancorbo is on the Vía de Bayona, not the Viejo... He had no clue. I knew I should go to Baños de Sobrón instead, where I am now in the hotel-restaurante Durtzi next to the river Ebro.

Yesterday I needed a good sleep after a long stage. But in the evening a man beckoned to me from the other side of the fence of the albergue. I immediately saw what was coming. He said he was a pilgrim and that he wanted to stay there. I said he had to call the hospitalero. I chatted a bit with him but wouldn't let him in. He accepted that. An hour later, when I had gone to sleep, he came back banging on the walls and screaming through the windows to be let in. (The fence is only around half of the building.) I had to go out and tell him once and for all that he needed to call the hospitalero if he wanted to stay, end of story. He shouted that I was a bad person, a horrible pilgrim, and that S:t James would bring down fire and brimstone on me among other things. Well, he didn't come back to disturb me during the night, and I haven't heard anything from S:t James either.

This is the disadvantage of putting an albergue in a single building in the middle of a town. In the evening I was doing my Camino chores in front of everyone in central Miranda de Ebro, and anyone could see me entering and leaving the albergue, attracting unwanted attention from people like him. Another time, on the Camino de Levante, it was teenagers who threw stones - not pebbles; stones - on the metal door of the albergue all through the night. That was far worse than this.

In the morning I invented my own way out of Miranda de Ebro. Outside town the red-and-white GR-poles appeared, and I have been following them easily all day. From Salcedo there were also yellow arrows. I made a short detour to see the dolmen de la Lastra, second picture below. Only a heap of stones remains. But an information panel gave me an idea of what it could have looked like in ancient times. There are more dolmens in the area, and a necrópolis of Santa María de Tejuela: a large burial place. But the necrópolis was 1 km away and I didn't want to add 2 kms by walking there and then back. I say, people need to start building ruins much nearer the GR routes or I am not going.

There was never more than 2 or 3 kms between the little villages. Such a beautiful walk. To sum it up: the GR route nailed it today. There is water in almost every village, but no bar until Fontetxa. After Villanueva-Soportilla I was unsure of where there would be a bridge to cross the Ebro so I got over as soon as I could: I followed @WestKirsty 's Wikiloc. But that meant I had to walk on the carretera to hotel Durtzi which was a bit difficult because there was not much space to walk on. I think you can go further along the Ebro and cross the river at Fuente de la Salud, much nearer hotel Durtzi. I believe @Caminka did this. However, when I zoomed in on Google maps it looked like the bridge was destroyed?!

Time to start planning for tomorrow. I take one day at a time: no idea if I am going to find a place to stay in Quintana Martín Galindez. We will see.

 

[WestKirsty]

Sounds like a great day! Yes, there is a new bridge to get across near the hotel. The issue now is that they've chained off a section due to rockfalls before you get to it.

I also wanted to mention that if you follow my Wikiloc tracks tomorrow ignore it beeping at you after Barcina del Barco. I have no idea why I chose to follow the old tracks from 2012 that I was using instead of the nice, shiny new GR markings but I did. And ended up in the middle of someone's crops (sorry farmer!). The markings are excellent

There's the great albergue outside Quintana Martin for tomorrow (also a hostel in town). Sarah who runs the albergue is so kind!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I have been investigating and it is definitely doable, do you know if it is possible to alter the stages? On Gronze it seems there is not much "wiggle" as accommodation is few and far between?

Hmm, from Pamplona to Salvatierra Gronze has no coverage on the Viejo. But I think there is room for some wiggle since I passed many villages and towns large enough for accommodation. If you are prepared to pay the price: there are few albergues until Salvatierra!

After Salvatierra, I only know the way to Miranda de Ebro and not the rest of the stages to Burgos. Thanks to Gronze, you should be able to put together your preferred stages!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I’m surprised to see the fields so brown. Do you think this is drought-related?

Maybe it is the camera: I didn't find them too brown... I saw more wild flowers today than on any stage since Pamplona! But in general the drought could have affected them... It is July, after all !

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Sounds like a great day! Yes, there is a new bridge to get across near the hotel. The issue now is that they've chained off a section due to rockfalls before you get to it.

I also wanted to mention that if you follow my Wikiloc tracks tomorrow ignore it beeping at you after Barcina del Barco. I have no idea why I chose to follow the old tracks from 2012 that I was using instead of the nice, shiny new GR markings but I did. And ended up in the middle of someone's crops (sorry farmer!). The markings are excellent

There's the great albergue outside Quintana Martin for tomorrow (also a hostel in town). Sarah who runs the albergue is so kind!

The hostal was full, but the albergue has room for me! One more stage secured...

I hope I will be able to sort out the accommodation at least to Aguilar de Campoo, fingers crossed

 

[dougfitz]

I’m surprised to see the fields so brown. Do you think this is drought-related?

Are those fields that have already been harvested and have now been ploughed for sowing?

 

[VNwalking]

I am waiting for someone to go back across the river at Embalse de Sabron and go (via Montejo de Cebas) to Frias. . .

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Death and destruction. I got lost in the mountains the whole morning. I am in San Martín de Don now, many hours later than I had planned. I think I can still reach target Quintana Martín Galíndez but I will be cooked by then. My feet are burning.

Wikiloc does not work for me. Downloaded, followed instructions, registered what they told me to register: nothing.

Here is a photo from today's misadventures, thus not from the right path:

 

[NorthernLight]

Stunning detour.

 

[VNwalking]

Wikiloc does not work for me.

I have had trouble with it too.
I use OSMand offline, with downloaded tracks, sometimes from Wikiloc, but often from other sources. It works very well.

 

[WestKirsty]

Yikes!! Sounds like quite the adventure! I think you said you got mapy.cz on your phone now? This is why I used it on the Viejo. The GR is already on it (the red line) so when Wikiloc beeped at me, I could check and see where the GR was.

I hope the rest of your day is much more straightforward!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Yikes!! Sounds like quite the adventure! I think you said you got mapy.cz on your phone now? This is why I used it on the Viejo. The GR is already on it (the red line) so when Wikiloc beeped at me, I could check and see where the GR was.

I hope the rest of your day is much more straightforward!

WhatsApp not work with Spanish pilgrim from Baztán, Wikiloc not work, mapy.cz not work OR I haven't learned how to use mapy.cz yet, am still looking into it. I don't know.

Yes better now: only 4 kms to albergue.

 

[laineylainey]

oh so sorry to hear about your day, glad you are nearly "home". Can you tell where it started to go wrong? lack of signs?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

There could be a slight delay in my daily report today... I couldn't lie down until now. I am so tired. I need to rest an hour, then walk to the pueblo - luckily less than 1 km - to find bars/cafés/food.

I have been chatting with the hospitalera until now, who is super nice. We talked about @WestKirsty of whom she has fond memories! So cool to walk in the footsteps of other pilgrims, and that the hospitaleros remember them!

Time to nap...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I am waiting for someone to go back across the river at Embalse de Sabron and go (via Montejo de Cebas) to Frias. . .

Is there something special to see there (Montejo de Cebas)? I am going to Frías tomorrow... The hospitalera talked about casas colgantes à la Cuenca...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 7: Baños de Sobrón - Quintana Martín Galíndez, 21 + ??? kms

Hotel Durtzi is a busy place. Lots of tourists, hikers, rock climbers, cyclists and families engaging in outdoor activities in the region. And Hotel Durtzi is their water hole. Maybe this is why the staff are stressed. First they gave me an unmade room, then shoving me to several other ones until they found one that was actually made and not reserved by someone else. Then a slice of tortilla de patata where two eyes were staring back at me from the plate: a fried grasshopper in my food..! Oh well, they were chatty and friendly and in the end we had a good laugh about it in the bar.

I left hotel Durtzi in Baños de Sobrón at 6 a.m. and started the very steep ascent to Sobrón Alto. Sobrón Alto is a hamlet in the mountains where many different hiking trails depart. To make a long story short: I followed the GR99 marks from there, then they disappeared, but I kept walking since I thought there were only signs at splits and junctions. I lost cellphone reception and could only keep walking. When I got reception again I had been walking uphill for hours, but saw that I was back only 1 km from Sobrón Alto where I started. I began to walk back, much faster this time as it was downhill all the way. But it took me over an hour to get back to the last GR pole that I had seen. I should have turned right on a smaller path, but interpreted the last pole as if I should keep walking forward instead.

You would think I was relieved to be back on track. But I understood that I now had to walk uphill again; this time on a goat path. I briefly considered going all the way back to Sobrón Alto, fill up my water bottles and take the carretera instead: only 8 kms to the next village according to a sign I saw in Sobrón Alto. In the end I refused to change my plans, so into the woods I went again. At one point I crossed the faux trail that I had been walking on earlier. I had noticed the goat path then as well, but never thought it was part of the GR99 because there were no poles, only red dots on the trunks, at the intersection.

The real GR99 was not as steep as the faux trail I had just walked, but by then I already had done several extra kms uphill and my legs were tired. I started to run out of water but told myself I would drink water flowing from the mountains in an emergency. In this pristine environment, it shouldn't be dangerous. It is just that I did not see or hear a single drop of water in the mountains. No stream, nothing. Maybe it is different in other seasons. I didn't meet another living soul either. I was completely alone up there.

I suffered all the way up to the crest, along the vertical cliffs, then a breeze, a clearing... I emerged on a broad and comfortable gravel road, finally going downhill on the GR99. But it took me forever to reach San Martín de Don in the increasing heat. I wasn't there until 1:30 in the afternoon. They have a huge water fountain in a small square, cool water flowing in abundance... I was saved. And the bar? According to Google it wouldn't open until 2 p.m. But thank god for small village bars and irregular opening schedules... I had my first café con leche of the day.

I still had a long walk to the albergue in Quintana Martín Galíndez. Luckily the rest of the day was flat, among the fields or down by the river Ebro, with water fountains in every village. It felt weird to have been up at the crest of the mountain and down by the river on the same day...

The albergue turístico in Quintana Martín Galíndez looks like a casa rural. What a relief to stay here..! There is an elderly man exploring various trails in the area, staying several nights, and a family on vacation that just arrived. There are only bunkbeds but the hospitalera put us in different rooms so I have privacy. I wrote earlier that I would visit the village but I am too tired to leave the house. There is enough things to buy here in the albergue: just leave money in a box and you can have soda, crisps, juice, peanuts, biscuits... Dinner only if you tell the owner before so she can prepare. 18 euros for the bed, + 5 euros for breakfast, which I gladly accepted, and 5 euros to use the washing machine. Dinner I don't know.

I will sleep like a log... Good night!

 

[laineylainey]

Hope you have a good night's sleep.

 

[VNwalking]

Is there something special to see there (Montejo de Cebas)? I am going to Frías tomorrow... The hospitalera talked about casas colgantes à la Cuenca...

No, it was more just a way to go all the way from Baños de Sobrón to Frias in one go without going up into the hills.

 

[Leemac40]

What an adventure.... sounds and looks idyllic though, almost an 'into the Wild" situation

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I didn't follow the virtual thread on the Viejo. I am totally clueless about the villages that come in my way. Little did I know would see Frías, one of the most beautiful pueblos in Spain. Well Sarah, the hospitalera in Quintana Martín Galíndez, mentioned it yesterday but I didn't think much about it then. Now that I am here: wow. Just wow. Waiting for the bars to open in the morning, I strolled through the medieval streets, to the church, to the castle, to the casas colgantes... According to Sarah, Frías is known as Little Cuenca and I am inclined to believe her. There is only about 200 inhabitants here, but it is one of the most beautiful places I have seen on any Camino.

 

[VNwalking]

I didn't follow the virtual thread on the Viejo.

Oh! Bad pilgrim, indeed.
Lots of info in there! And we had a lot of fun.

 

[laineylainey]

What does little Cuenca mean?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

What does little Cuenca mean?

It is because of the casas colgantes; houses that seem to hang from the rocks. The city of Cuenca is famous for them but they have them in Frías as well. Frías is so much smaller than Cuenca so... "Little Cuenca"!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Well there is no accommodation available in Quintana de Valdivielso tomorrow, or miles around... I don't know what to do. I hope something comes up tomorrow.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 8: Quintana Martín Galíndez - Trespaderne, 21 kms

After yesterday's marathon in the mountains, today was like a walk in the park. I cheated and walked on the carretera BU-520 until Montejo de San Miguel, and also to Frías. Asphalt is what I do best and I wanted a flat and easy start for my feet after what happened yesterday. The GR99 went the same way, just a bit nearer the Ebro.

Frías was a surprise. It is the most beautiful town yet on this Camino: medieval bridge, church, castle. And casas colgantes - houses hanging off the cliffs - as in Cuenca. I posted photos of Frías already this morning because I couldn't stop myself (see above). The castle that hovers over it all looks like it will come crashing down on the main square any second. Frías must be a tourist magnet, and I saw a couple of them walking around aimlessly on the bridge and in town. But as I got there early it was as if I had the whole center for myself.

After Frías I was tempted to continue on my beloved asphalt. But I slapped myself in the face and tuned in on the yellow-and-white markings that left from Frías. I read a lot from @Caminka 's notes today so I knew there would be some yellow-and-white stripes thrown in between all the red-and-white ones. And then there were purple-and-white?! No idea what those are for.

I appreciated the sudden pine forest between Frías and Quintanaseca. It was drier than the green woods I have been walking on earlier on this Camino. But in the morning it was still cool and fresh in there. I must admit it was a treat for the feet to walk on such a soft trail, after the asphalt...

Between Quintanaseca and Cillaperlata was a short 5-star-stretch: fields, woods and hills all in one! If Frías was the best town of the day, this was the prettiest landscape.

After Cillaperlata the GR makes a bow to the left along the Ebro. But the trees have been cut down in the area. I had to walk through this desolate place for an hour. The BU-530 to the right from Cillaperlata is much shorter, and you wouldn't miss anything in terms of scenery if you took it.

I arrived early in the afternoon in the large-ish town Trespaderne. Several bars, Eroski supermarket, a hostal... What more could one ask for? But the town itself is a bit dull. I soon have to move from the café I am at the moment. The men have started a round of Shouting Game: the famous Spanish national sport where a group of middle-aged men in a bar start shouting instead of talking normally to each other.

I stay at Hostal José Luis, 40 euros. Tomorrow is tricky because I can't get hold of anything in Quintana de Valdivielso or miles around. Everything is full or not answering. I kept trying the entire evening but nothing. There is a hotel in Cubillo del Butrón, but wouldn't that be more than 40 kms from Trespaderne? I have difficulties counting the distances from @Caminca 's notes. I will have to sleep on it.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I found a hotel 6 kms from Quintana de Valdivielso. My only option. I will have to backtrack tomorrow... And my foot hurts. I hope it will be ok tomorrow. Feels like tendonitis. Not many pictures today: I was worrying about my foot and where to sleep and that was the only thing on my mind. Currently in Puente Arenas.

 

[VNwalking]

Take care, BP!

 

[NualaOC]

I found a hotel 6 kms from Quintana de Valdivielso. My only option. I will have to backtrack tomorrow... And my foot hurts. I hope it will be ok tomorrow. Feels like tendonitis. Not many pictures today: I was worrying about my foot and where to sleep and that was the only thing on my mind. Currently in Puente Arenas.

Great posts and photos, BP. Wishing you good food and rest this evening - hope your foot pain settles.

 

[NualaOC]

And I love walking on vias verde!

Me too! I found a great one on the Vasco. It cut out all the road walking between Alegría Dulantzi and Vitoria Gasteiz.

 

[VNwalking]

t cut out all the road walking between Alegría Dulantzi and Vitoria Gasteiz.

Ohhhhh. That is fabulous! That was a TON of road walking.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 9: Trespaderne - Bisjueces (off Camino), ?? kms

Today I woke up with pain in my left foot. It felt like tendonitis. No surprise. It is from the excessive walking I did in the mountains, after Sobrón Alto, two days ago. It takes a few days to develop so it is normal that I felt fine yesterday. I walked on the carretera almost entirely today because I knew I couldn't take the rocky ups and downs of the GR99 between the villages. I didn't limp but I guess I am about to.

There were no bars open until Puente Arenas, at noon. I had a café con leche, a tortilla de patata and sat down to look at my options. Not only did my foot hurt, I didn't have anywhere to sleep either. The Hotel Rural Torres in Bisjueces, off Camino, was the nearest accommodation so I had to drag myself there. For the most part on national road N-242 along the Ebro. Pray that you find lodging on the regular route, because you wouldn't want to follow in my steps today. Cars and trucks came hurling towards me behind every bend of the Ebro. I wish I could have taken a photo of the non-existent margin I had to the traffic, but I was too busy staying alive.

After an eternity I reached Hotel Torres in Bisjueces. Prices had fluctuated on Booking. I managed to grab it when it was 61 euros. Breakfast included. It is worth its price but I don't care about the luxury if I can't walk anymore.

I am terrified to think I will have to go back the same way tomorrow, several hours on a boring and deadly road, just to reach Puente Arenas again. It looks as if I can go directly to Pesquera de Ebro instead, on the regular Camino. If I can walk at all.

 

[Magwood]

So sorry to read that you’ve had such a hard day. I can sympathise about the tendonitis as I have often suffered with extensor tendonitis. Can you organise a taxi back to Puente Arenas tomorrow?

 

[WestKirsty]

I'm very sorry to hear about your foot and your day. Maybe a taxi or a rest day would help? Tendonitis sucks.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, BP,
I am very sorry to read about your day. Challenges are always part of the camino, but this one sounds pretty awful.

I hope you are doing lots and lots of stretching and ice. I’m no fisio but I am pretty experienced with tendonitis. I went to a trainer after my big hamstring problem in 2021 and he gave me advice that I have followed on my last two caminos. The very minute that some muscle starts to hurt, stop walking and stretch. And then incorporate that stretching into your pre-walk morning. And your post-walk evening. I did it on the Torres with tendonitis from pavement walking on the day out of Salamanca. And I did it just now on the Lana with some lower back pain. Come to think of it, on my 2019 Olvidado, when I got excruciating knee pain after two days of incredibly steep descents, @Krimpa told me to start stretching and showed me some exercises, and it worked!

Not to say that it’s a magic bullet, but stretching seems to help me keep the injury from progressing, and eventually it goes away. Just my experience.

And I second the suggestion from the wise women, magwood and westkirsty. Look into a TAXI!!!!

I’m enjoying your pictures so much, but it seems like I’ve probably enjoyed today’s pictures more than you enjoyed the walk. Hoping for a much better report tomorrow, BP.

 

[VNwalking]

If I can walk at all.

I'm sorry BP! May a night's rest be the best pain relief.

It looks as if I can go directly to Pesquera de Ebro instead, on the regular Camino.

It looks like it may be the long way around. In your pained shoes, I'd take a taxi back to Puente Arenas and walk from there.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Hi, BP,
I am very sorry to read about your day. Challenges are always part of the camino, but this one sounds pretty awful.

I hope you are doing lots and lots of stretching and ice. I’m no fisio but I am pretty experienced with tendonitis. I went to a trainer after my big hamstring problem in 2021 and he gave me advice that I have followed on my last two caminos. The very minute that some muscle starts to hurt, stop walking and stretch. And then incorporate that stretching into your pre-walk morning. And your post-walk evening. I did it on the Torres with tendonitis from pavement walking on the day out of Salamanca. And I did it just now on the Lana with some lower back pain. Come to think of it, on my 2019 Olvidado, when I got excruciating knee pain after two days of incredibly steep descents, @Krimpa told me to start stretching and showed me some exercises, and it worked!

Not to say that it’s a magic bullet, but stretching seems to help me keep the injury from progressing, and eventually it goes away. Just my experience.

And I second the suggestion from the wise women, magwood and westkirsty. Look into a TAXI!!!!

I’m enjoying your pictures so much, but it seems like I’ve probably enjoyed today’s pictures more than you enjoyed the walk. Hoping for a much better report tomorrow, BP.

Thanks Laurie. Yes, already after reading Maggie's post I decided to take a taxi at least to Puente Arenas. I just booked a room in Pesquera de Ebro: happy to not sleep in a ditch tomorrow either...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Ok, I booked a taxi for tomorrow. He sent me a code. What do I do with the code? Is it just to show the driver tomorrow? I never booked a taxi before...

 

[VNwalking]

I never booked a taxi before...

Me neither. Can't help you, sorry...but I can say I'm glad to hear that!

 

[WestKirsty]

Ok, I booked a taxi for tomorrow. He sent me a code. What do I do with the code? Is it just to show the driver tomorrow? I never booked a taxi before...

I've never been given a code but when I have reserved in Spain I'm given the taxi number...usually 4 numbers that are visible on the side somewhere. Maybe this is what it is?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Ok, it was a phone number... I had to call again to a specific driver. I didn't get that...

He can't pick me up until 8 in the morning so I can sleep in...

 

[laineylainey]

Oh do take care and I think the taxi option, as others have suggested, is definitely your saviour tomorrow. You need to just be a bit kinder now to your body wee body.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Just arrived in Pesquera de Ebro (walking). Cell phone has gone on strike for the first time, but I am told the owners of the hotel rural work in the next bar up the street. My foot didn't bother me today! Of course, the effect may come later. It was a bit swollen yesterday, but I hope it looks better today.

I am in the first bar in Pesquera de Ebro so I have yet to investigate my feet... And investigate why I can't make phone calls anymore.

 

[VNwalking]

My foot didn't bother me today!

Long may that be so!!!

 

[WestKirsty]

I'm so glad to hear your foot was better today! I'm looking forward to hearing which route you took!

I also just want to make sure you've seen my note on other threads about following the 99 tomorrow (the way Caminka went). The bridge is washed out so don't follow the 99 at first. It goes up 400m to what I'm sure would be a nice view, to then drop 400m down to the river where you'd need to cross. But with no bridge, this would mean having to walk back up the 400m and taking the road or walking back all the way to Pesquera...not fun, I imagine.

There's a trail that connects to the 99 on the side of the river you need to be. Starts at the church in Pesquera (back right) and heads down to the river. Then a flat, easy trail to Orbaneja! Enjoy!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I'm so glad to hear your foot was better today! I'm looking forward to hearing which route you took!

I also just want to make sure you've seen my note on other threads about following the 99 tomorrow (the way Caminka went). The bridge is washed out so don't follow the 99 at first. It goes up 400m to what I'm sure would be a nice view, to then drop 400m down to the river where you'd need to cross. But with no bridge, this would mean having to walk back up the 400m and taking the road or walking back all the way to Pesquera...not fun, I imagine.

There's a trail that connects to the 99 on the side of the river you need to be. Starts at the church in Pesquera (back right) and heads down to the river. Then a flat, easy trail to Orbaneja! Enjoy!

Ok, thanks! Can I look at your Wiciloc to avoid the washed out bridge? (I can see your trail, just not use the GPS).

 

[WestKirsty]

Ok, thanks! Can I look at your Wiciloc to avoid the washed out bridge? (I can see your trail, just not use the GPS).

Yes, my Wikiloc trail should work! I just forgot to start it at the church... remembered a few minutes later.

With Wikiloc, does the app have permission to use your location? Maybe this has been disabled on your phone and would explain why it's not working for you?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Yes, my Wikiloc trail should work! I just forgot to start it at the church... remembered a few minutes later.

With Wikiloc, does the app have permission to use your location? Maybe this has been disabled on your phone and would explain why it's not working for you?

They say I need to pay or register for a free trial... Which I did, twice, but it keeps asking me...

 

[WestKirsty]

Sorry, I should also say that my GPS went weird in the canyon so it looks like I flew over the river near the beginning. I most definitely did not do that. But the trail is obvious

 

[WestKirsty]

They say I need to pay or register for a free trial... Which I did, twice, but it keeps asking me...

That sounds incredibly frustrating. Here's a screenshot of the trail (yellow line)

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 10: Quintana de Valdivielso - Pesquera de Ebro, 23 kms

I said farewell to the hotel rural Torres and jumped into a taxi at 8 in the morning. My foot seemed much better, fingers crossed, after a ten hour sleep in the quiet and comfortable hotel. The owner said the house was full but I didn't hear a sound or see anyone during the evening. I slept like a log, and when I woke, the swollen and reddish part on my left foot had disappeared. I jumped off the taxi in Quintana de Valdivielso, next to Puente Arenas where I left the Camino yesterday.

Taxi in Spain is interesting. The driver couldn't get me at 6.30 a.m. because it was "too early". I thought the point of calling a taxi was that it can pick you up at any time? I asked if I could pay with my visa card: no. I asked if he had change: no. I paid him in cash, but that means I now have almost no cash left. Next ATM is in Polientes, two stages from here. Luckily I can pay my accommodation and food with my card here in Pesquera de Ebro.

I walked extremely slowly today not to upset my foot. Two highlights: the calzada romana leading up to an ermita, and the walk down the Cañon del Ebro to Pesquera del Ebro. I took many pictures since I was in a better mood than yesterday!

The ascent up to the ermita was gradual and the calzada is pretty well preserved. So the terrain felt ok for my feet even when walking uphill for a couple of kms. I thought I would be walking downhill after the hike up to the ermita, but instead I saw nothing but wuthering heights extend in front of me. Flat, windy, low vegetation, it got cloudy... I have never been to Scotland but in my vivid and probably erroneous imagination, this is how I picture the moors. Wuthering heights didn't last for long though. The middle part of the stage was on quiet country roads (asphalt) through rolling fields from one little hamlet to another.

The terrain remained pretty flat until I got to the Cañon del Ebro. The road began to zig-zag down the hill with spectacular views: of the other side of the canyon, of the village Pesquera de Ebro, of a few other villages in the area and of the Ebro itself. A stroll over the medieval bridge and I found my hotel rural El Arco, 50 euros. They also own one of the two bars here. It is a small place, like every village I have seen for the past few days. Therefore difficult to find somewhere to sleep in the area, or find an ATM machine. I still haven't found accommodation for tomorrow in Orbaneja del Castillo. Well well.

 

[C clearly]

Taxi in Spain is interesting. The driver couldn't get me at 6.30 a.m. because it was "too early". I thought the point of calling a taxi was that it can pick you up at any time?

Yes, that may be your point, but not what the taxi driver has in mind!

That might be another reality of the Caminos that pass through small villages, where visitors needing early morning taxis are quite rare. I tried on one occasion to get a morning taxi on the Lana. However, nobody was available at that time, likely because the taxi drivers have regular runs to transport children to school from villages that have no school.

 

[peregrina2000]

And it may also be the case that this is the only taxi driver in town. I remember when @C clearly and I wanted to take a taxi to see the visigothic church near Berlanga de Duero, we had to be squeezed in between her picking up the school kids and going to another town to take someone to a scheduled bus departure.

 

[C clearly]

we had to be squeezed in between her picking up the school kids and going to another town to take someone to a scheduled bus departure

And Pepe in Villaconejos de Trabaque had a regular job where he taxied someone somewhere in the early evenings.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

In Quintanilla de Escalada, dutifully following @WestKirsty 's Wikiloc. No accommodation in sight on this stage that I wanted to end in Orbanejas del Castillo. I booked a hostal further away, in Polientes, but it is too far for me to walk in one go. I keep walking and see what happens. Thunderstorms are forecast for noon.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 11: Pesquera de Ebro - Polientes, 37 kms

I spent most of the evening yesterday calling every hostel, albergue, casa rural, army base and whatnot in Orbaneja del Castillo and in the area. Everything was full. Except for hotel La Puebla. But they only accept a minimum of 2 nights in July. I could have taken a rest day in La Puebla but I wanted to keep moving... I booked a room in hostal Sanpatiel in Polientes instead, without knowing how on earth I would get there. Trying to make sense of all the different guides I am using, I thought Pesquera de Ebro to Polientes would be more than 40 kms.

The day started with an overgrown path right after Pesquera de Ebro. It had rained yesterday evening and the grass was wet. I pushed through the jungle, hoping that the ticks had drowned in the rain or that they were at least sleeping at this hour. When I emerged on a broader path, my shoes and socks were soaked and my pants looked like I had been wading through a river. Luckily, this was the only problematic terrain of the day. Everything else until Polientes was on a comfortable dirt path, on a gravel road, or on tarmac.

Before noon I reached Orbaneja del Castillo. I walked up to it from the canyon to have a look. In the bar El Abuelo I sat down, wondering what I should do. I saw I had only walked 17.5 kms according to @WestKirsty 's Wikiloc. And there were "only" 19 kms from there to Polientes on the GR99... I am no stranger to 37-38 kms, so I decided to try to reach Polientes the same day after all.

Unfortunately, this meant I missed out on things to see and do in Orbaneja del Castillo. But just arriving there was fantastic. On a soft path in the woods, always next to the river and beneath the cliffs of the canyon where I finally got to see lots of vultures. The rocks became more and more peculiar as I got nearer Orbaneja; my neck almost hurt by looking up the whole time. The village is set in a fascinating landscape. I met lots of hikers on my way there, and the bars and terraces were filled with tourists. No wonder everything was booked!

After Orbaneja the path continued next to the river, with a few beautiful waterfalls along the way. There was a bar about halfway in San Martín de Elines where I took a break. The markings were easy to follow. I only lost the GR once, in Arenillas de Ebro 4 kms from Polientes, probably by negligence. After a couple of kms the GR joined me again and I arrived safely in the outskirts of Polientes. I was greeted by a refreshing cafetería next to the river. Then I just had a mere km to the town itself and to Hostal Sanpatiel (40 euros on booking). My feet will probably punish me later, but here I am.

Tomorrow I don't know... As usual: hostals and casas rurales are scarce, and Aguilar de Campoo seems so far away... I hope I can split the stage to Aguilar de Campoo in some way. I am open for suggestions.

Bye for now!