LIVE from the Camino Walking the Via de la Plata with New Friends

[Karin309]

Hi Karin
The link in my msg above to Gronze …shows 27euros for single. They are private rooms.
Are you using gronze.com ? (Or checking it for accomm suggestions and approx prices ?). Note: for others thinking of staying here - best idea is to phone them and ask for the pilgrim rate.

A few people walked from the arch the day I stopped at Hostal Asturias ….. they climbed through fences etc. Going with the lift is good. You continue walking on the main road in the morning enroute to meet up with the camino.

I’m wishing myself back there on Vdlp as I type

Buen camino.

I did not use Gronze but anyway I heard from another pilgrim it's really a truckers hostal and that did not atrackt me much. And my legs were good, the route beautiful and so I kept walking. I did not go over the road.. I hate that. Yes the path was challenging at times but it was doable and actually I had a lot of fun trying to keep my feet dry

 

[Karin309]

Day 16 Via de la Plata, from Carcaboso to Aldeanueva del Camino, 38.9km.

I hit the street early this morning for this long stage. The morning started almost windless, and I must say that this stage is my favorite so far .

The whole day was actually beautiful, although the terrain was quite challenging due to the many rivers, streams, mud baths and flooded lawns that I had to cross. I got really wet feet a few times, but I had a lot of fun choosing the driest paths (and then falling through the mud anyway )
But I walked quite easely and when after 26km there was the possibility to go 2km from the route to a truckers hostel, I didn't feel like stopping yet...Moreover, I had heard mixed reports about that hostel, and 11km further on, I would find a very good pilgrim's hostel waiting, so I had set my mind on that.
Walking the path today emptied my head in a wonderful rhythm. I actually enjoy walking by myself. Unfortunately I did have a blister (on the top of my foot ), pierced and taped it, gave me no real problems.
Again a chilly wind in the afternoon, and one very turbulent river that was impossible to cross safely. Fortunately, the detour was only a few hundred meters extra
On arrival at the albergue I was pleasantly surprised by Sarah, a German pilgrim who has been on the road for a week longer than I have and who takes it a lot slower. And she has to because her feet are covered in blisters
Super nice to have company again and the albergue is also superb, with heating, a nice bed and a good shower. And even a breakfast Tomorrow morning I'm going to tape Sarah's blisters first, I don't know if we'll walk together, but we'll end up in the same albergue again, and that's a nice prospect
Tomorrow a relatively short stage, about 21km. To be continued...

 

[Grousedoctor]

Hey Karin, Another great description or your day along with great pics. But, when I saw the one of your feet, I broke into a big smile and had to pass along one of my photos possibly from the same muddy path. Love your posts!

 

[Corned Beef]

There's a Via Verde from Aldeanueva to Bejar as an alternative to more direct official route.

Aldeanueva del Camino - Valle del Ambroz

This municipality is located in the middle of the valley. Its name derives from the Roman road whose layout nowadays follows its main street. It has very well preserved remains and a Roman bridge. This municipality is located in the middle of the valley. Its name derives from the Roman road...

visitambroz.es

Route (in reverse)

Vía Verde Ruta de la Plata - Béjar- Aldeanueva del Camino

Ruta Vía Verde Ruta de la Plata - Béjar- Aldeanueva del Camino de Mountain Bike en La Estación, Castilla y León (España). Descarga el track GPS y sigue el recorrido del itinerario del sendero desde un mapa. Perfecta para iniciarse en las Vías Verdes y Eurovelos.

es.wikiloc.com

 

[Karin309]

Day 17 Via de la Plata, from Aldeanueva del Camino to La Calzada de Bejar, 24.5km.

I took it easy this morning, had breakfast in nice company this time , and also taped some blisters on Sarah's feet.
The first 10 km were mainly on the road, I don't find that very pleasant walking with all the traffic, but the view of the mountains made up for it. It was nice to walk in company after so many days of solitude and we also had about the same pace.
Conversations that immediately went into depth, the sun on our face, and so we soon entered the first (and only) village where we could do some shopping for tonight and tomorrow's stage.
We also had a nice encounter with a truck driver who was walking his dog, but Fifi was apparently so impressed with two oncoming pilgrims that he took off like a spear. The poor truck driver followed in his wake, of course...uphill
A little later during a coffee stop at a gas station we saw him again, with our brave Fifi in the truck
After shopping our backpacks were considerably heavier, and although the route became more and more beautiful, I had a hard time today. It was very cold, and of course the wind was again pretty challenging. Anyway, I was happy to finally arrive at the albergue, which is run by one of the few inhabitants of this deserted village. A sandwich, a can of fish and cookies, is my menu for tonight
Tomorrow a stage of 20 km awaits us, but with a strong wind from the east, the wind chill will be around -6 degrees when we leave.


To be continued...

 

[Karin309]

Dont know why but cannot get the photos to upload...

 

[OzAnnie]

Dont know why but cannot get the photos to upload...

But I still believe you!! (that it’s very very cold )
Your pack tomorrow should be light ?? As you’ll probably be wearing a lot of your warm gear.

Meal situation sounds a bit meagre though - something warm would go down well.
Buen camino

 

[Robo]

This is great to hear — it sounds like some official organization has decided to take the arrows off that road. Since it was a Saturday when you walked, @Karin309, you would have been lucky to avoid the M-F horror of a continuous stream of workers coming towards Cáceres at high speeds, with a few trucks thrown in for fun. It is really a very dangerous stretch, probably in the top 3-4 most dangerous stretches I’ve experienced in many years of walking caminos. People on the forum have been talking about this for years, and I think the route you took is described in this thread.

I am enjoying your posts very much. The weather looks great, for now at least!

Hoping the app developers will remove the highway alternative! Buen camino, Laurie

How far does the 'dangerous' road bit extend?
Is it all the way to Cañaveral?

 

[Kanga]

@Robo it is the road between Cáceres and Casar de Cáceres, and the dangerous bit is about 3km. About 30 minutes of walking fast. And we all walk this stretch fast! Punctuated by squeezing up against guard rails and teetering on a narrow verge.

 

[Karin309]

How far does the 'dangerous' road bit extend?
Is it all the way to Cañaveral?

The detour is not much longer but a very tough climb though. But the scenery is well worth it, it's fantastic!! And much more safe then the road...

 

[Karin309]

Yesterdays photos

 

[Karin309]

Resumé of today; Day 18 Via de la Plata, from Calzada de Bejar to Fuenterroble de Salvantierra, 21.6km

Another beautiful but very cold day, which unfortunately started with a Bell pain. During breakfast Sarah gave me a bottle of hot water in a towel to put against my belly, so sweet that I almost cried.
The route was beautiful again today, alternating between roads and paths, no major obstacles and most of the mud was frozen.
One challenging crossing, but fortunately we kept the feet dry.
The Camino provides, and I am so grateful to have met Sarah. We had intense conversations interspersed with good humor and lots of laughter... Exactly what I need now, I'm tired, I'm ready for my well-deserved break in Salamanca and the last stretch to get there weighs heavily, but together we are supporting eachother and we have a lot of fun and that's gold.
The albergue here... we don't know... Kind of creepy, religious fanatics,freezing cold (obviously), although the owner has now lit the wood stove but it is leaking smoke, which triggers my heart ailment. Anyway, we're glad we're here with the two of us...Imagining all kinds of horrormovies which could be made here
Tomorrow another tough day of 30 km ahead!

 

[WanderingNotLost]

Karin,
Truly enjoying your words and pictures. Clearly you are special. Thank you.

 

[Robo]

Resumé of today; Day 18 Via de la Plata, from Calzada de Bejar to Fuenterroble de Salvantierra, 21.6km

The albergue here... we don't know... Kind of creepy, religious fanatics,freezing cold (obviously), although the owner has now lit the wood stove but it is leaking smoke, which triggers my heart ailment. Anyway, we're glad we're here with the two of us...Imagining all kinds of horrormovies which could be made here
Tomorrow another tough day of 30 km ahead!

Isn't that the Albergue run by Don Blas?
It always seemed so popular

Loving your posts !

 

[george.g]

“Creepy religious fanatics “ Staff must have changed since I was there in last October !!
You did notice that the albergue is a parochial donationativo?
For a lot of perigrinos me included, this albergue and its welcome was a highlight of our Camino.
Different strokes for different folks, I guess.

 

[Karin309]

Ok guys, let me clarify myself here.
I write this blog about my camino from how I experience it, which means that this will always be subjective. So yes, Sarah and I felt a bit overwhelmed by the overload of religious statues, paintings, writings and so on, everywhere we could look, in this very cold and empty place. For except for the owners, we were the only people there. Yes we knew it is a parochial donativo, but we did experience it at the moment as overwhelming and a bit creepy. The owner might just have had a bad day, for he was really not friendly.
Anyway, that this place can be a very special and sacred experience in a different time a year with lots of pilgrims and livelyhood around, I can imagine AND I am happy to hear that!
But apart from our, of course non-objective experience, there is this fact that now, in winter, they are doing something really dangerous.
For everyone, sleeping in a room filled with smoke due to a leaking firestove is funest. For me personally; I have heartdisease and my coronairy arteries start cramping when breathing in that much smoke. It's accutely dangerous to me, but also as a former firefighter I KNOW its very unhealthy for anyone to breath in that smoke and the situation is not safe. I tried to communicate that with the owner, but he just put in more wood and told me to even close the window. Which I did not. So after a sleepless night breathing in smoke and laying in the freezing breeze of an open window, I had to walk all day with chestpains and my pilgrimfriend has problems with her breathing due to last night. But I guess when the weather is warm enough to stay there without using the stove, it is ok..

 

[Trishb]

Wow Karen, your posts have all been so positive and encouraging. I am sorry you were almost apologising for your previous reflection about your stay. I am grateful for you input and will not stay there when I continue my Via

 

[nycwalking]

Ok guys, let me clarify myself here.
I write this blog about my camino from how I experience it, which means that this will always be subjective. So yes, Sarah and I felt a bit overwhelmed by the overload of religious statues, paintings, writings and so on, everywhere we could look, in this very cold and empty place. For except for the owners, we were the only people there. Yes we knew it is a parochial donativo, but we did experience it at the moment as overwhelming and a bit creepy. The owner might just have had a bad day, for he was really not friendly.
Anyway, that this place can be a very special and sacred experience in a different time a year with lots of pilgrims and livelyhood around, I can imagine AND I am happy to hear that!
But apart from our, of course non-objective experience, there is this fact that now, in winter, they are doing something really dangerous.
For everyone, sleeping in a room filled with smoke due to a leaking firestove is funest. For me personally; I have heartdisease and my coronairy arteries start cramping when breathing in that much smoke. It's accutely dangerous to me, but also as a former firefighter I KNOW its very unhealthy for anyone to breath in that smoke and the situation is not safe. I tried to communicate that with the owner, but he just put in more wood and told me to even close the window. Which I did not. So after a sleepless night breathing in smoke and laying in the freezing breeze of an open window, I had to walk all day with chestpains and my pilgrimfriend has problems with her breathing due to last night. But I guess when the weather is warm enough to stay there without using the stove, it is ok..

Do keep posting: good, bad, or otherwise.

Really enjoying walking vicariously alongside you.

Buen camino.

 

[Karin309]

Day 19 Via de la Plata, from Fuenterroble de Salvatierra to San Pedro de Rozados, 28.6km.
My worst day since I started, unfortunately. After a sleepless night in a dormitory with a leaking wood stove, I got out of bed broke and with chest pain. My pilgrim friend Sarah was not in much better shape, she mainly suffered from her respiratory tract.
And cold, it was REALLY COLD!
To our surprise, when we left, we were suddenly pointed into the kitchen by a volunteer (we didn't even know he was there), and we were offered breakfast with toast, fried egg and coffee. A big surprise for us and he was very friendly, while we actually had not been able to have a connection at all with the owner yesterday. Maybe he was having a bad day..
Anyway I was happy to resume the trip and breathe fresh air again, but my heart was already triggered and it didn't get any better during the day. I needed a lot of breaks, unlike Sarah who cooled down too much because of it. So after my first break I walked alone for the rest of the trip, hoping that my physical complaints would remain manageable.
So a beautiful route again, a big climb though and a big descent, but doable, although the last part on the road was tough and exhausting.
When my body doesn't cooperate it's easy to sink into negative thoughts and be angry with myself, my body and the whole world , and oh yes sorry, having your period doesn't help with that either...
Anyway, with a pep talk from my lover and some self-reflection you can go a long way, so in the end it was an educational day on the camino.
Now in a hotel where I share the room with Sarah, we have heating, a hot shower and later a real hot meal, menu del dia..
The chest pain subsides a bit and I know that with rest and fresh air this will probably be over in a few days.
Tomorrow another stage of 25km to Salamanca, and then... BREAK!!!
Enjoying three days with my partner
To be continued...

 

[Grousedoctor]

I look forward daily to hearing about your Camino and seeing the pics. They bring back such fond memories. It also reinforces that by bike one travels much too quickly missing so much of what you are experiencing. Biking the Camino was great, but there are certain experiences that just don’t happen compared to when one is walking.

Couldn’t agree with you more about the leaky fireplace. Any of us with compromising physical conditions would not have enjoyed it any more than you did. Glad you’re out of there.

Enjoy Salamanca. It’s a great city for a break.

 

[BombayBill]

Wow from your pictures it looks really cold. Your perseverance is admirable! Don't blame yourself when you've endured a terrible sleep in a room with bad air. You don't need to risk your health. You deserve a warm hotel room.

 

[peregrinosencillo]

As unpleasant as the cold may be, extreme heat can be more unpleasant.

I'm loving your authentic reaction the this incredible adventure. Buen camino!

 

[J Willhaus]

Hang in there! Hope the break will replenish your spirit.

 

[camino07]

“Creepy religious fanatics “ Staff must have changed since I was there in last October !!
You did notice that the albergue is a parochial donationativo?
For a lot of perigrinos me included, this albergue and its welcome was a highlight of our Camino.
Different strokes for different folks, I guess.

Loved that Albergue, had a tiny cabin in the yard all to myself. Guided tour of the church was great too.

 

[Karin309]

Loved that Albergue, had a tiny cabin in the yard all to myself. Guided tour of the church was great too.

I explained myself about this in a post above. Anyway I am happy you had a different experience!

 

[camino07]

Just read your posts. Must be awful this time of year. Such a long, long day to San Pedro I found.
Hope your chest is ok now. Enjoying your posts.

 

[Karin309]

Resumé (Yesterday) Day 20 Via de la Plata, from San Pedro de Rozados to Salamanca, 26,6km.

We got up early and had a strong pace heading towards Salamanca. It was very cold, for a change .
The route was uninspiring, but we enjoyed intense and lively conversations with eachother and so the morning miles steadily disappeared...
Too cold to take a break and frankly...too much pepper in my ass (that is a saying in Dutch, not sure if it means anything in English )
Salamanca waited with my boyfriend, so no trouble at all to race those 26 km away.
The reunion was everything I hoped for , emotional, warm, joyfull, familiar. We had a nice drink with the three of us and then Sarah left for her studio, and we to our luxury hotel...
Wow... what a delight, a warm room, hot shower, soft towel, wonderful bed... and fantastic company
Everything I have every day at home in France, but which now, after three weeks of challenges and harsh conditions, seems so special to me... It makes me realize that nothing is to be taken for granted, and that it is important for me to realize how beautiful and rich my life is nowadays
Now, 3 full days break and joy together in this beautiful city. Tonight we will have a delicious dinner with Sarah, and tomorrow and Tuesday we will look around in the city and of course do some shopping at Decathlon before the tour continues on Wednesday.
Then I will of course continue to write about my experiences! For now; pause

 

[TomSawyer]

I am staying at the "truckers" hostel (Hostal Asturias) tonight, with two other pilgrims.
We were picked up at the Arco de Caparra and driven to the hostal. It is 25 for a single room with heating, hot shower, internet. The family owning the hostal is really nice and welcoming. It is absolutely recommended. We had a few tapas and they were excellent. Don't know who would leave bad reviews of this place tbh. Ultreia!

 

[Pilger Franz]

It makes me realize that nothing is to be taken for granted, and that it is important for me to realize how beautiful and rich my life is nowadays

As a pilgrim I fully agree

 

[Karin309]

Resumé of the last days....Day 21/22/23 Via de la Plata, break in Salamanca
Together Axx and I enjoyed this beautiful city and each other. I felt very spoiled, with delicious food, beautiful sightseeings, super comfortable hotel, and first and foremost excellent company We also spend some nice times with Sarah and made plans for a yoga retreat at the albergue in France.
Unfortunately I caught a nasty cold, so I'm not very physically fit . But so happy and grateful for the past few days that I resumed my hike today in great spirit.
Because of my cold, I chose to cut the original stage in half, and that also allowed us to take it easy this morning and still have a nice breakfast together.
Then there was really the time to say goodbye, and I also leave Sarah behind for now, she will stay one day longer in Salamanca.

Day 24, from Salamanca to Calzada de Valdunciel, 16.6km.
"On my own again", bright sun, and the first kilometers to get out of Salamanca a very boring and industrial route. Followed by a sandy path through farmland, and after 16 km I reached my destination. Fortunately, because I really don't feel fit.
I stay in the municipal, a nice place with heating and a functional kitchen. After the king-size bed, a bunk bed will take some adjusting again , but I am so tired and snotty that I will probably sleep. I am (again) the only one here and I had hoped for that, so at least I can't infect anyone.
Tomorrow a longer stage, about 21 km...

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh, I loved that little hobbit albergue! I’m hoping you found the restaurant on the national highway about a km from the village. It has a great menú del día, or at least it did 10 years ago.

 

[Karin309]

Resumé of today; Day 25 Via de la Plata, from Calzada de Valdunciel to El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino, 20.9km.
What a wonderful day again, with a very fresh start of minus 3 degrees Despite my cold, I had a relatively good walk, I took it slowly with lots of breaks. Which fortunately was comfortable to do so, despite the cold there was no wind and in the full sun it was warm enough to take breaks
Funny thing is that while walking I hardly coughed, but when I paused I was coughing my lungs out

So I just need keep going I guess

Today I pondered a lot about the upcoming season in the albergue and all the (new) plans we have, mainly to organize a yoga retreat (for pilgrims). And how that seems to be taking shape now because Sarah turns out to be a yoga instructor . Super nice prospects and so the kilometers just kinda disappeared...
On arrival at the albergue(of course as the only guest) I was warmly welcomed and had a wonderfully hot (and long )shower. Yet another challenge...The local supermarket happened to be closed on Thursdays, as well as the restaurant. I knew I needed a solution, especially considering tomorrow's long stage. A local cafe is open, but I'm hesitant to sit there with my cough and runny nose amongst the locals...
So I Googled and found a gas station a bit further away, at walking-distance. Anyway, by this stage I wonder what "walking-distance" means to me, since I feel I could walk around the world by now .

So anyway, they have some snacks and that's about it..
Tonight's dinner; peanuts with coke and chocolate for dessert . Well ... I have eaten so luxurious and healthy in Salamanca, this is okay for once
I also was able to buy some snacks for tomorrow on the way, and luckily I still carried some yoghurt, cheese and proteïnebars. Much needed because I have about 32 km ahead of me. A long stage in combination with a cold, but I don't like the only option "in between" at 13km from here, so 32km it is...
Anyway, tomorrow the camino often runs parallel to a motorway with a few hundred meters of farmland in between, so if I really feel too poorly I can always find the motorway and hitchhike a bit
But with once again beautiful weather forecasts I think it will be ok...

 

[Paul-CH]

Hi Karin I wish you all the best for tomorrow morning. It will be another cold start. But I think you are used to it already. Buon camino

 

[J Willhaus]

Will you make it to Zamora tomorrow? Lovely albergue there. There is a small grocery store nearby past the Plaza Mayor on another Plaza by the indoor city Market building and several bakeries. The kitchen is good at the albergue in Zamora, too. Several restaurants on the Plaza Mayor if you don't want to cook. You may not feel like looking around, but it is a wonderful old walled city. The municipal albergue is built into the wall and next to what used to be a city gate and it is next to one of the older Romanesque churches.

 

[Nomadita]

Resumé of today; Day 25 Via de la Plata, from Calzada de Valdunciel to El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino, 20.9km.

But with once again beautiful weather forecasts I think it will be ok...

Hey I'm booking to join the Frances in the Meseta in mid February, any tips on what is needed/must haves for a winter camino? I did it in October last year so very different! It was actually quite warm some days!

 

[Karin309]

Will you make it to Zamora tomorrow? Lovely albergue there. There is a small grocery store nearby past the Plaza Mayor on another Plaza by the indoor city Market building and several bakeries. The kitchen is good at the albergue in Zamora, too. Several restaurants on the Plaza Mayor if you don't want to cook. You may not feel like looking around, but it is a wonderful old walled city. The municipal albergue is built into the wall and next to what used to be a city gate and it is next to one of the older Romanesque churches.

Thank you!!! I did hear already that the municipal is lovely and I already called them. They will be waiting for me tomorrow I hope to have enough energy left to cook myself, I am quite picky on what I eat . And considering to stay an extra day in Zamora, depending on how I feel...

 

[Karin309]

Hey I'm booking to join the Frances in the Meseta in mid February, any tips on what is needed/must haves for a winter camino? I did it in October last year so very different! It was actually quite warm some days!

Warm sleeping bag, warm clothes (many layers, I always chose merinowool) and an isolating sit pad. I love the sit pad, keeps my ass dry, warm, it's soft, weighs only 25grams and costed me 10 euros. I use it on every break!!

 

[Pilger Franz]

I love the sit pad, keeps my ass dry, warm, it's soft, weighs only 25grams and costed me 10 euros. I use it on every break!!

Don't forget to give a glance to it after each break! Or tie it to sth.

 

[Nomadita]

Warm sleeping bag, warm clothes (many layers, I always chose merinowool) and an isolating sit pad. I love the sit pad, keeps my ass dry, warm, it's soft, weighs only 25grams and costed me 10 euros. I use it on every break!!

Thanks!! I would never have thought of a seat pad, great tip!

 

[peregrina2000]

You know Zamora is a beauty of a town, @Karin309. Great place for a rest day, if you think another one is in order so soon. There’s so much to see. If you like Romanesque, you will be in Romanesque heaven. There are more than 20 romanesque churches in town, and they coordinate their schedules so that no more than a handful is closed any day of the week.

My very favorite, the teeny tiny Santiago de los Caballeros is outside the castle walls (leave through the doorway closest to the cathedral). It is the place where El Cid supposedly was knighted after his night of prayer vigil in the church. I can’t think of a better place to sit and contemplate some of the big questions, but also to have fun trying to figure out what the capitals represent, some of which cannot be described on the forum.

And I just checked - you’re in luck, it closes on Monday and Tuesday! It’s open 10-2 and 5-8. I’ve probably been there five or six times and I have never encountered anyone but the caretaker, who always sits quietly in the back in the corner, probably aware of the impact the silence and simplicity might have on people.

Hope you had a good walk today - walking over that bridge into town is pretty awesome!

 

[rscohen]

I will start from Sevilla on Wednesday. I just read every word of your wonderful posts and all of the responses. I've been immersed in the true spirit of the Camino. Thank you all. Buen Camino, Karin

 

[Karin309]

You know Zamora is a beauty of a town, @Karin309. Great place for a rest day, if you think another one is in order so soon. There’s so much to see. If you like Romanesque, you will be in Romanesque heaven. There are more than 20 romanesque churches in town, and they coordinate their schedules so that no more than a handful is closed any day of the week.

My very favorite, the teeny tiny Santiago de los Caballeros is outside the castle walls (leave through the doorway closest to the cathedral). It is the place where El Cid supposedly was knighted after his night of prayer vigil in the church. I can’t think of a better place to sit and contemplate some of the big questions, but also to have fun trying to figure out what the capitals represent, some of which cannot be described on the forum.

And I just checked - you’re in luck, it closes on Monday and Tuesday! It’s open 10-2 and 5-8. I’ve probably been there five or six times and I have never encountered anyone but the caretaker, who always sits quietly in the back in the corner, probably aware of the impact the silence and simplicity might have on people.

Hope you had a good walk today - walking over that bridge into town is pretty awesome!

Wow, thank you very much!! Yes I will take an extra day here, it was a long stage today and I am still struggling with my cold. Gives me a nice opportunity to visit some churches and I will definitely visit the one you recommended

 

[Karin309]

I will start from Sevilla on Wednesday. I just read every word of your wonderful posts and all of the responses. I've been immersed in the true spirit of the Camino. Thank you all. Buen Camino, Karin

Buen Camino rscohen

 

[J Willhaus]

A lot of history/lore in Zamora. We were there 2 weeks as hospitaleros and on the last day, I found a book in one of the tourist shops in English which detailed all the historical sites in the town. Of course we bought it and brought it home and found out what we didn't know while we were there.

 

[Karin309]

Day 26 Via de la Plata, from El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino to Zamora, 32.4km.

An early and cold start (minus 4 degrees) for this long stage. Again a beautiful route, especially the first 20km. Beautiful nature, silence, me together with my shadow...
Before I started this camino I was a bit afraid of the solitude... Would I be lonely?? Now I experience the exact opposite, whilst I do walk alone almost every day. I learn to enjoy my own company, and to be okay with whatever is going on inside me; light and darkness. That's one of the reasons I chose this solitude camino in the first place..

And in addition, I experience an enormous connection with "all that is", and even though I may be the only person on the path, with all the life around me I am never alone
And yes, I also have enough conversation material... I talk to dogs, cats, cows, sheep, pigs, donkeys, horses, lambs and birds. I talk to trees, flowers, the sun, moon, wind and stars...I talk to my shadow, which, with the sun at my back, always stretches out in front of me. Sometimes I wave to my shadow, and she always waves back . Or I do a dance to loosen up the muscles, or just for fun, and she always dances along...

I also talk to my Samsunghealth bitch, abbreviated "the bitch". I have a love-hate relationship with her. She reports to me every kilometer I've covered, but later in the day she seems to be waiting longer and longer ... She also tells me every kilometer what my current and average speed is. And I can tell you, those techies from Samsung have learned the bitch to condemn and despise ! Because when my average speed drops below 5 km per hour, she sounds really depressed and disappointed. And then I just have to listen to all that from the bitch
You are reading it already; never a dull moment on my Camino
Unfortunately I still have a persistent cough that kept me awake last night, so after today's 32.4 km I decided to take a rest day in Zamora. There are beautiful Romanesque churches to visit here, so it's certainly not a punishment and I have the time.
Tonight I am staying in the municipal, fantastic albergue run by volunteers, heating, kitchen and tomorrow morning a communal breakfast. There are 3 other pilgrims here, 2 cyclists and a French woman walking in the opposite direction.
Tomorrow I will move to a hostel for my second night in Zamora and meet Sarah again
To be continued...

 

[Paul-CH]

Dear Karin, thanks for your interesting story about your relationship with "the bitch". You are hiking with a good speed.
Therefore I have my Garmin, it’s sometimes my only companion on my caminos. The faster I go it’s more talkative.
Have a nice rest day and get rid of the cough. Enjoy Zamora and be together with Sarah again. Buon camino Paul

 

[Karin309]

Day 27 Via de la Plata, in and around Zamora - Decathlon - Zamora, 17.3km.

My "rest day" in Zamora today was anything but restfull. Unfortunately it already started with a sleepless night, caused by my own coughing and the loud snoring (from 10 pm to 7 am!!) of my roomy. She really killed the complete rainforest last night

Completely exhausted, I therefore appeared at the joint breakfast, which was actually very pleasant
But I was expected to leave the municipal before 9am, so there I was standing in the freezing cold on my day off...
Of course I could have gone to a coffee bar, but again I didn't feel like coughing while sitting amongst the locals... So, time for a walk to stay warm...

I started with a nice walk alongside the river, followed by the decision to stock up on some energy boosters at Decathlon, 3.5km away...
Back in the center I visited some beautiful churches, I really like the Romanesque style... Simplicity, peaceful, and most of them (21 in Zamora) are small and cozy. Not the "bling bling" of the great cathedrals, not the material excess. Just nice old spiritual places, perfectly designed to catch your breath...

In the end, before I could check into my hostel, I walked another 17 km, and I was still coughing and very very tired.
Fortunately, the Plaza Mayor is very pleasant in the afternoon, in the sun on the terrace it is nice and warm...and it is also there that I decided to spend another extra day in Zamora.
Today's "rest day" was not a rest, especially because after checking in I also had to go to the launderette and the supermarket. I still have about 500 km to go and my body needs rest now.
So tomorrow a bonus day, resting, looking at churches and probably sitting in the sun with Sarah and her boyfriend
Hopefully I will be refurbished enough on Monday to continue walking with good courage

 

[rscohen]

OK, I don't want to be an alarmist, but... If you keep coughing and coughing, and you can't lie down to sleep because of the coughing, and you continue to feel exhausted, and especially if you have a fever and/or chills... you may have pneumonia. It doesn't just go away by itself.

 

[Robo]

OK, I don't want to be an alarmist, but... If you keep coughing and coughing, and you can't lie down to sleep because of the coughing, and you continue to feel exhausted, and especially if you have a fever and/or chills... you may have pneumonia. It doesn't just go away by itself.

It would be worth dropping in to a local health centre.
As I'm sure you know, the Spanish Health system is really good.
See what they say?

 

[TomSawyer]

I just want to write that it is possible to walk 50-60km per day if you don't have a rucksack, or if you have a very light rucksack.
If you have a light rucksack, you can expect to walk around 40km per day.
If, like me, you are walking with approx. 20kg+ on your back, you can expect to walk a max. of around 35km per day.
Be careful of walking too far with a heavy weight in your rucksack.
You can do yourself some permanent damage.

 

[Paul-CH]

If you have a light rucksack, you can expect to walk around 40km per day.
If, like me, you are walking with approx. 20kg+ on your back, you can expect to walk a max. of around 35km per day.

Hi TomSawyer, I will start my camino at march 20th at Cadiz with my 20L backpack aprox. 6kg including one liter water. I am quite curious what does make your backpack so heavy. Are you in any special training?

 

[TomSawyer]

Hi TomSawyer, I will start my camino at march 20th at Cadiz with my 20L backpack aprox. 6kg including one liter water. I am quite curious what does make your backpack so heavy. Are you in any special training?

I was in Cadiz for about 10 days over Xmas and New Year. I love Cadiz. I can recommend Pension Cadiz. I was going to walk the Camino Augustus but I wanted more infrastructure for pilgrims, so I began in Sevilla. My backpack is heavy because of computer equipment and clothes. I am going to Cambodia after my Camino for about three months. If I was to do the VdlP purely for the walk, I would make sure only to have around 7kg in my pack. The extra weight has been playing havoc with my spine and legs (and feet).

 

[Former member 103025]

"I was in Cadiz for about 10 days over Xmas and New Year. (...) My backpack is heavy because of computer equipment and clothes. I am going to Cambodia after my Camino for about three months"

Don't fall for the story about computer equipment and clothes, ladies and gentlemen. This story just doesn't add up.
I suspect that Tom Sawyer still carries the pirate treasure he found in the cave with his friend Becky Thatcher. He probably brought it to Cadiz on a ship and is now trying to smuggle it overland to Thailand, disguised as a pilgrim walking Camino de Santiago.
Think for a moment: Tom was heading north following Via de la Plata and a few days later he's posting from Burgos?! That's definitely not the direction to Santiago....

 

[TomSawyer]

Don't fall for the story about computer equipment and clothes, ladies and gentlemen. This story just doesn't add up.
I suspect that Tom Sawyer still carries the pirate treasure he found in the cave with his friend Becky Thatcher. He probably brought it to Cadiz on a ship and is now trying to smuggle it overland to Thailand, disguised as a pilgrim walking Camino de Santiago.
Think for a moment: Tom was heading north following Via de la Plata and a few days later he's posting from Burgos?! That's definitely not the direction to Santiago....

Aargh, it's my treasure!
I left the VdlP at the Roman arch and decided to head up to Burgos to walk the Meseta.

 

[Karin309]

Via de la Plata: Day 28 Zamora, day 29, from Zamora to Fontanillas de Castro, 32.4km.

The roller coaster of the Camino rumbles on...Deep valleys and high peaks have alternated in rapid succession over the past few days.

I have been on the path for almost a month now and then sometimes all of a sudden..

Homesickness... Why am I doing this, when I could be at home in a warm bed, in the arms of my lover, my two lovely dogs against me...Tasty and hot food in a warm house, a hot shower , a real towel, pain-free back, legs and feet...Why??

I reached my deepest down (until now ) yesterday, both physically and mentally. With for the first time serious thoughts about giving up...a tired and sick body, an intense and sometimes confrontational inner process...That in combination with the hardships of the so-called "toughest" camino in Spain, and that in the WINTER

But yesterday also passed...and so did my mental breakdown... after the much needed pep talk from Axx who always knows exactly the right thing to say , I went back on the path again this morning. At first still doubtful, but with the disappearance of the kilometers underneath my feet, the doubt also disappeared.

My body felt stronger today, my cough diminished, the weakness is disappearing...If my body can do it, giving up is not an option...

There is a reason I am here and the Sanabres (connecting road between VdlP and Santiago) is waiting for me...
And so I walked today, and although the route was somewhat dull and cold with a north wind, I felt the strength in my body increase. Enough to bridge the 32km to the municipal albergue where I really wanted to go, because I had heard so many good things about it.

And I am so glad I did!!! These people are worth their weight in gold
Such a sweet and caring welcome, a beautiful and clean inn, wonderful beds, heating, fantastic shower, a fresh dinner prepared with care and love! VEGETABLES The best food I've eaten on this Camino so far, and tomorrow we also have a shared breakfast!
And all this on a donativo basis...

This albergue is a jewel on the VdlP and a heaven for the weary pilgrim. A piece of "home" on the camino, and just what I needed!
I'm back on track again

Sarah is here too, and Jeppe, a Danish pilgrim. Tomorrow Sarah and I will take it easy again, it is a choice between 10 km or 35 km, and since we are both not yet top fit, it will be the 10 km

But we're on our way again...

 

[rscohen]

Buen Camino rscohen

Via de la Plata: Day 28 Zamora, day 29, from Zamora to Fontanillas de Castro, 32.4km.

But we're on our way again...

I’m so glad to hear about your recovery. You’re a woman of great strength, and you have a fan base cheering loudly. Brava!
Did you knit your lovely hat?
I depart Sevilla tomorrow.

 

[Karin309]

I’m so glad to hear about your recovery. You’re a woman of great strength, and you have a fan base cheering loudly. Brava!
Did you knit your lovely hat?
I depart Sevilla tomorrow.

Thank you for your beautiful words. I did knit the hat I wore during the first weeks, but this one I bought in Salamanca...it's a much warmer one
Buen Camino!!! Enjoy the warmth whilst you are still in the south

 

[Karin309]

Day 30 Via de la Plata, from Fontanillas de Castro to Granja de Moreruela, 10.5km.

The day started wonderfully relaxed with a lie in and breakfast at 9 am, of course again provided by our fantastic hospitaleros. What lovely people...
After breakfast I got busy to provide Sarah's feet with tape, while hospitalera Angela expands our -first aid for blisters- stock with tape, bandages and special oil for the feet.
She also gives Sarah a whole jar of pickled mushrooms because Sarah is a vegetarian and sometimes has trouble finding suitable food.

We are touched by the care, love and commitment this couple exudes and the joy they clearly derive from their life in service to pilgrimscommunity

This place was just what I needed to mentally recharge and regain the courage to move on.. Only at 10.45 am the three of us left the inn, and all three walked this short stage of over 10 km at our own pace. The route was uninspiring, the weather as always radiant but quite cold with a strong headwind.
The albergue here is simple, a small electric heater protects us from freezing, but no more than that. We share the dormitory with the three of us and we chat away the hours... We lose ourselves alternately in intense deep conversations and lame bullshit

Cooking is not possible here and the café offers little to eat, so we have a nice picnic around our electric heater.
Tomorrow we will part ways...

The Via de la Plata ends here, and Sarah and I will continue on the Via Sanabres towards Santiago.
Jeppe is to make his way to Astorga and from there follow the more famous and busier Frances route to Santiago.

Anyway, from tomorrow on we will no longer walk to the north, but to the west! On to Santiago...

 

[nycwalking]

I am thoroughly enjoying your posts.

Thanks for sharing your journey.

 

[camino07]

Day 30 Via de la Plata, from Fontanillas de Castro to Granja de Moreruela, 10.5km.

Anyway, from tomorrow on we will no longer walk to the north, but to the west! On to Santiago...

Too late for you now Karin but there is a friendly bar/restaurant further on, on the same side of the road and just around the corner from the Albergue . We had breakfast there to. Sorry didn't catch the name.

 

[Sydney Peregrinos]

Hi Karin, thank you so much for sharing your experiences with us all. I eagerly await a new post each day.

 

[Karin309]

Day 31 Via de la Plata/Via Sanabres, from Granja de Moreruela to Tabàra, 27.4km.

We said goodbye to Jeppe this morning, and Sarah and I continued on the path together. We are spoiled again with beautiful but freezing weather. Now used to the cold, I count my blessings... I know that it has rained a lot further south on the VdlP and we are being spared from that so far

Early in the morning we reached the fork in the route...Via Astorga to the Frances or the Sanabres...
For both of us, the choice was already made and so from now on we are walking westwards, on Via Sanabres , with the sun from the side for the first time, instead of in the back! What a wonderful change

Almost immediately there is a change in landscape, what a beauty and diversity suddenly ... we enjoy it to the fullest! But the terrain is also becoming more challenging ... Certainly the walking route along the river is pretty tough and looks more often like climbing than walking. But the beauty of the route is well worth the physical struggle

Sometimes we walk together, sometimes separately, then next to each other in silence, interspersed with intense and beautiful conversations. We experience a deep connection with each other, and we also get along well in soft talk and humor. I am so grateful that we found each other here on this Camino

When we reach Tabàra we are done for the day, both tired and hungry we reach the municipal, where José welcomes us warmly. We get something to drink and he shows us a photo book with hundreds of photos of his caminos, with an inspiring saying under each photo. As he leafs through the book at speed I have to say "stop", and the picture where his finger rests is "my spell" for this Camino...
In the pictures you can see what this one was...

The inn is basic, no heating and therefore quite cold, but José cooks for us and put a delicious and nutritious meal on the table. We talk a bit via Google Translate and he tells us that he has been running this inn on his own for 9 years, every day, and that he always cooks for "his" pilgrims. Very special, and we feel his hospitality.
After dinner we are invite to draw another card from a box with again all kinds of inspiring sayings, of course without looking. We can keep this ticket and I safely store it in my pilgrim passport. This saying also bears great truth for me.
It is incredible that the spells that Sarah has received also match exactly what she encounters in her life at the moment.
Somehow messages found on the Camino always seems to bear truth..
Another special day that ends in a special place... And tomorrow, further west, one step at the time

 

[Lindsay53]

Thanks for sharing your journey Karin. I am getting even more inspired for my April start!

 

[pulso]

Thanks for sharing your journey Karin. I am getting even more inspired for my April start!

Hey Karen,
I just came across your blog - I have goosebumps and tears of joy in my eyes.
What an achievement - now to commit the VP, I take my hat off!!!
Got my VA/VP on 23.11. finished in the city of light and there 8 more!!! Days spent (desde Cadiz).
If you visit the Albergue Peregrinos in Santa Marta de Tera today [door code deleted by moderator], you will find "everything" you need (everywhere heating, hot water, kitchen, washing machine, microwave, crockery/cutlery, blankets, TV, cleanliness , .........

buen camino and hasta luego - I'll go and "cry" on with you......... ;-)
Soooo good, again my utmost respect - Abrazo

 

[Karin309]

Thank you
Unfortunately the municipal albergue was closed and we had to go to a hotel a little bit off the camino

 

[Karin309]

Day 32 Via de la Plata/Sanabres, from Tabàra to Camarzana de Tera, 24.3km.

After another cold and somewhat restless night, we wake up early. José has a simple breakfast for us, toast with jam. Luckily I still have a cup of protein yogurt!
Then we set off, of course we start in the freezing cold but the sky is clear blue again and there is little wind.
Beautiful long gravel paths make the route easy today...Fortunately, because we are carrying extra kilos of food because we know that we will end up in a municipal where we can finally cook extensively, or so the reviews say. Only there will be no supermarket in the village and so we carry lunch, dinner and breakfast...
The first 10 km glide past while chatting, but then we both feel that the backpacks are starting to weigh heavily and we take a long break. In the sun and without wind it is pretty comfortable
Suddenly we are greeted by another pilgrim, Monique, a Canadian who has also been walking for weeks but had to take a long break in Salamanca due to an injury. Because of her time schedule, she took the bus to Tabàra yesterday and now she's walking again...

Super fun to exchange experiences with her too
After a while there is a fork in the route, Sarah and Monique choose the left route that is a bit longer but passes a cafe, I choose the right route that goes directly (well that's to say, in about 12km ...) to the albergue.
Because this inn has, in addition to a fully equipped kitchen, also a washing machine...and to be honest; I'm starting to smell a bit

So my mission is to reach this inn as soon as possible so that I can wash and cook and my clothes also have a chance to dry. So far so good...

As always, the Camino turns out to have other plans in store for us

I'm stomping away the kilometers when I suddenly get a message from Sarah who, by now in the cafe, tells me that "our" inn is not open today
The bartender told her that and also that we have a better chance if we walk to a hotel further away, about 5 km from the Camino.

Great then, this wasn't the plan
Not only do I not feel like an extra 5 km, it also means that we can't cook our kilos of food AND that I keep smelling

The Camino provides, I firmly believe in that...Not necessarily with what you WANT, but with what you NEED...
So it is what it is, and soon I meet Sarah and Monique again and we manage to book a room in the hotel.
Monique takes an extra break, Sarah and I continue walking.

The last 5 km to the hotel is along a motorway and on good luck and a bit rowdy we raise our thumbs at every car that passes us. After about 2km a lovely Spanish lady stops and delivers us at the door of the hotel in a few minutes. Mission accomplished

We wash our clothes in the bathtub and hope they will dry. We also decide that we can eat most of our food raw ... (hunger does make everything tasty), and thank Google when we learn that raw zucchini really is a great snack for a donkey, so that saves a lot of weight for tomorrow !

Hopefully we will have a good night's sleep later, and then tomorrow... just another day of walking

 

[AlanSykes]

You're now perfectly placed for Rionegro del Puente tomorrow. Either lunch at Me Gusta Comer, with outstanding food and enjoyable company from chef Teo, then carrying on over the moors to Mombuey, or staying the night at Rionegro's excellent albergue (complete with washing machine) and leisurely dinner with Teo.

 

[AfriCat]

Day 2, 19.5 km. After a nice breakfast the six of us left Guillena. The morning started very cold, but it warmed up quickly, until we finally walked in T-shirt and shorts . Again a wonderful trip, the terrain was a bit muddy and challenging at times but no major obstacles. We all seem to have about the same pace and pleasantly babbling conversations alternate with pleasant silences. Our hostel here is lovely, we even got towels! Funny how happy you can be with a little luxury . No kitchen here that we can use, but we spotted a restaurant where they serve a pilgrim menu. And just to the Spar to stock up for tomorrow, then we have 28 km ahead

@Karin309 - which hostel did you stay in at Castilblanco de los Arroyos. The municipal albergue website says it is closed until 28 Feb, so I assume maybe Albergue Casa Salvador? Gracias, ¡buen camino!

 

[Karin309]

@Karin309 - which hostel did you stay in at Castilblanco de los Arroyos. The municipal albergue website says it is closed until 28 Feb, so I assume maybe Albergue Casa Salvador? Gracias, ¡buen camino!

Wow, I really don't remember...So many days, so many albergues...Maybe if you scroll back you can find it in my posts. Although the name Casa Salvadar does ring a bell, so that's probably it..

 

[Karin309]

Day 33 Via de la Plata/Sanabres, from Camarzana de Tera to Rionegro del Puente, 24.6km.

It was minus 4 degrees when we left the hotel this morning Somewhat late, because Sarah's feet needed quite a bit of tape again. She continues to develop painful blisters and I'm almost out off my supply of tape... Hopefully we'll make it to Santiago with what we have, as I haven't been able to find the same quality of tape here in Spain so far.

Anyway, in good spirits on the path again through a frozen landscape, we have a lot of fun together this morning and crying with laughter the kilometers disappear by themselves.
After about ten kilometers we actually come across a café that is open and we take a long break, very comfortable in the sun, with a clearly pregnant cat twirling around our legs. She belongs to the cafe and seems to have a great life . In the afternoon we each walk at our own pace, the route today is overwhelmingly beautiful and we enjoy it to the fullest! At the end of the day, is especially Sarah having a hard time with a lot of pain and fatigue, and I've had enough of it too. We wonder why the hell we do this, such a camino in winter...
Sarah comes to the conclusion that the combination of tremendous pain and immense enjoyment can be compared to getting a horrible cramp in your legs whilst experiencing the peak of an orgasm
The Camino...; the pleasure makes the pain acceptable.

Anyway, with this great comparison we have forgotten the pain for a while and we soon reach our final destination. The albergue municipal should be pretty good, but what I'm especially looking forward to is that fantastic restaurant that has such good reviews! This village has no supermarket, we hardly carry any food with us anymore, but that doesn't matter; "our" restaurant is waiting for us..

Well, another lesson in "expectations"...
The restaurant appears to be closed this week. There is another cafe in the village, but, you guessed it... this one is also closed
There is no one to be found in the inn, and although it looks very nice, it is dirty and dusty, there is no hot water and the washing machine does not seem to work.
Somewhat frustrated, we hide in the large dormitory, where there are a few small heaters that we eventually get to work. But it's still freezing cold

I dive into my sleeping bag shivering, whilst Sarah has the courage to at least do a cat wash with cold water and then disappears in her sleeping bag, petrified with cold.

Ok, so what's for dinner tonight? I eat a bag of peanuts and a chocolate bar, Sarah has some rice crackers with cream cheese and some nuts... we'll have to make do with that.

Finally the hospitalera appears, clearly embarrassed about the circumstances. She makes it clear to us that maintenance has been done on the inn (painting, etc), that is why it is so dusty and everything is turned off. She says there will be hot water later in the evening and again apologizes for the dust.
We just shrug our shoulders. Indeed, if it is clean and the boiler and kitchen appliances are on, it is a very nice albergue! And if the restaurant would be open...

After instructions of the hospitalera, Sarah goes out to visit the local bakery, hoping to at least score breakfast. This one (surprise ) also turns out to be closed, but at the encouragement of a busy handsigning Spanish neighbor, Sarah rings the doorbell and the store is opened especially for her.
She comes back with bread, toppings, eggs and even a can of coke for me

We have now both converted our bunk bed into a fortress, so we keep it warm and we found some fun again !
To be continued...

 

[Sydney Peregrinos]

To be continued...

Another challenging day! But you still keep your sense of humour. You and Sarah are so lucky to have met each other. May the sun shine on you tomorrow and the next albergue be open!

 

[pulso]

Hey willing (strong) woman,

today municipal gallego (Asturianos)?
I would like to congratulate you briefly on your wonderful talent for taking us all with you (in your own way) and inspiring us so much for your path and your achievements.

i will stay with you

abrazo

 

[side]

Karin,

can you only stay in this municipal albergue one night? just checking as I will be staying in town 2 nights too.

thank you

 

[J Willhaus]

Karin,

can you only stay in this municipal albergue one night? just checking as I will be staying in town 2 nights too.

thank you

As a former hospitalera at Zamora, you can only stay one night barring some kind of injury or illness. Some will require a doctor's note. I can't recall if that is the case in Zamora or if if is up to the hospitaleros.

 

[Karin309]

Karin,

can you only stay in this municipal albergue one night? just checking as I will be staying in town 2 nights too.

thank you

I am not sure. I did not ask because I was feeling sick and needed some more luxury..

 

[Karin309]

Day 34 Via de la Plata/Sanabres, from Rionegro del Puente to Asturianos, 27.5km. Another freezing morning, minus 5 degrees on departure. Both struggling with the lack of rest and warmth during the night, and therefore with a tired body.
Sometimes it's hard to keep my spirits up when I feel so exhausted.

In the morning we each walk our own pace, fighting with our own demons. We meet again in Mombuey, to our surprise there is a well-stocked supermarket where we stock up. Then we pop into a cafe for a long break with a delicious tortilla.
Crazy to experience is that even when I've filled up my stomach, I still feel like my body is hungry

In the afternoon we walk together in a pleasant cameradery and the humor is back. The route is beautiful and varied and for the time being relatively flat. After tomorrow we will go into the mountains and there will be some days with long stages including large differences in altitude.

We don't even want to think about that now...

In the afternoon it warms up nicely and it is pleasant to take a break on a bench in the sun. We are joined by an 83-year-old Spaniard who talks endlessly about anything and everything, visibly happy with some company in this otherwise deserted village. The fact that we don't understand anything about it doesn't seem to bother him at all

The path leads us through several small villages where not a living soul is to be seen. Usually a dozen old dilapidated houses and a church, that's all.

Finally we arrive quite late in Asturianos, where we are pleasantly surprised this time by the albergue municipal, which is part of a kind of sports center. The bathroom and corridors are freezing cold, but in the cozy dormitory there is a heater that at least dispels the frost.
The beds seem clean, the shower is hot, and there is a bar next to the complex, equipped with a wood stove

There we meet Monique from Canada again, and we chat while enjoying a drink...warm at last! As icing on the cake, we can also get a pizza and a salad there... finally hot food

In the evening I take care of Sarah's blisters the best I can. It looks bad and honestly I think it's a miracle she's still walking. Meanwhile, a new blister has formed under the previously healed skin of an old blister.
I have a lot of experience in taking care of blisters, but I can't eliminate the cause and in this case we suspect her shoes...
Sarah has now decided to buy new shoes in the first sports shop we come across, determined to complete her camino to Santiago!
(I added a picture of Sarah's blister, tips are welcome)

We'll take it easy tomorrow. 15 km from here there is a somewhat larger place where we have booked a hostal. Hopefully we can also wash our stinky clothes and get some extra rest before we head into the mountains...

Mmm, internet connection is to weak to upload the photos...Hopefully I can do that tomorrow

 

[AlanSykes]

Envidia sana: I think the days over the high passes from Puebla de Sanabria to A Gudiña are probably the loveliest of the whole Sanabrés, up there with any days on any camino, especially since the AVE construction works are finally over.

The only time I walked it in snow I saw what I think were wolf paw prints, which did not look like good news for the deer prints ahead. Lubián's albergue is outstanding and the village so welcoming.

 

[pulso]

Dear Karin,
take your time on your way to PuebladS tomorrow and try to recover well after your arrival there.
From now on, good equipment is even more "elementary" (shoes, weatherproof clothing in general) - the path starts from "new" after PdS (altitude, asphalt, meadow, water, mud).
Please also remember to inquire and reserve an open (warm) albergue/hostal/hotel the day before - but, what am I telling you?@!
Anyway, it's a "riddle" to me how you've pulled it off so far - stay on the path and be proud of yourselves!!!........ stay with you.
abrazo

 

[Karin309]

Foto's from yesterday...

 

[J Willhaus]

Foto's from yesterday...

That heel looks bad! Has she had her feet looked at by a physician? Hope your tape holds out if she plans to continue!

 

[Karin309]

That heel looks bad! Has she had her feet looked at by a physician? Hope your tape holds out if she plans to continue!

Yes, a few weeks ago already. The doctor didn't do much. Sarah says that the way I am treating her blisters is the only reason she is still able to continue. I did learn how to do it from experienced professionals, however, I am not a doctor. She is determined to continue...

 

[Karin309]

Day 35 Via de la Plata/Sanabres, from Asturianos to Puebla de Sanabria, 16.4km.

This morning I discussed with Sarah the many reactions from the Camino Facebook groups regarding Sarah's blisters.
Thank you for all your feedback!!!

Weeks ago, before we met, she went to a doctor with her blisters. That was not helpfull at all, he did not even pierce or disinfect them, let alone tape them.
Anyway, she thinks the only reason she's still walking is because she ran into me
Now, years ago already I learned how to treat blisters from professionals.
On my first camino (Frances) I was called the blister doctor by many, and I had to go out regularly to find new tape because I was busy a lot during the evenings taking care of the blisters of my fellow pilgrims. But of course I'm not a doctor, and Sarah knows that.

She knows her body and now sees no need to see a doctor. She is also determined to continue her camino. And she would like to stay near me, of course for my fantastic company , but also for the treatment of her feet.
However, we did a few things differently today in response to all the reactions.
First, I gave her a pair of my merino wool socks. Secondly, today, during this relatively short and flat stage, she walked on my crocs to spare her heel. Luckily we have the same size
We are now in a village where there is a shoe shop, she will go there tomorrow morning for new and especially lighter shoes, probably trail runners ...
Then she will leave later than me, and try to hitch hike for the second part from where the mountains begin.
Fingers crossed...

Ok, then today;
Clear blue and cold this morning, as always, but it warmed up quickly and with no wind it was a pleasant walk.
After 3 km we arrived in a village with a café that was open. We enjoyed a long break on the terrace The trek after that was beautiful and easy, which was nice for both of us.
Although I don't struggle with blisters, my body is also very tired and half a day of rest is very nice.

We have a wonderful hostal, with a wonderful shower and heating. No washing machine, so back in the stinky clothes after the shower Well, we're used to it by now
It is surely nice to get some strength, tomorrow 30 km and with an increase and decrease of about 750 meters. So I'm leaving early and Sarah will hopefully follow later!

To be continued...

 

[JennyH94]

Hi Karin and Sarah -
Thank you for sharing your VDLP and Sanabres camino with us here on the Forum. It’s been and continues to be an amazing journey.
I admire your tenacity and perseverance so very much and also your strong pilgrim spirit.
Every best wish for a buen camino until you both walk into Praza do Obradoiro in Santiago.
From my pilgrim heart in Oz to you both -
Jenny

 

[pulso]

hey sunshine,

I wish you a lot of strength (especially for today a Lubian) and I know your "bedtime story" will make my eyes sparkle again.

You are so strong and care more about others than you - wow!!!
I'm also thinking (with a "little" concern) of Sarah - lots of love and best wishes.

"Give me five" also for our peregrino (friend) from the bar/Tienda Silva - thank you.

walk by your side
abrazo

 

[TomSawyer]

@Karin309 - which hostel did you stay in at Castilblanco de los Arroyos. The municipal albergue website says it is closed until 28 Feb, so I assume maybe Albergue Casa Salvador? Gracias, ¡buen camino!

Casa Salvador is excellent.

 

[Karin309]

Day 36 Via de la Plata/Sanabres from Puebla de Sanabria to Lubian, 30.4km.

I left early and on my own this morning for this long stage. It was still dark, luckily not that cold, and my legs were ready to go and filled with energy today

The first flat 12km I marched away in just over two hours, with an average speed of 5.8km per hour. My Samsunghealth bitch was over the moon

The first part was on the road, then it got a bit more challenging. Still flat but with mud, ditches, floodings and rocky terrain. I felt like a mountain goat and kept up the pace. And so it happened that, after 12 km, it was still before 10 am that I had my first break. In a cute village with a small café that was fortunately already open

The "dreaded" climb started soon after, which is partly on trails and partly on the road. Honestly, it wasn't too bad...ok, it was a good workout and I was able to peel off layers of clothing, but it never got exhausting and I found joy and admiration in the power of my body! I had to build that up from 0 several times after my heart attack and later complications, and now I just ′′ run ′′ up a big mountain without a struggle

And with that today I reached the highest point of this Camino, somewhere around 1300 meters. And there was even some snow!

Just before my second break at 21 km Sarah called me, she was in the shoe store and bought trail runners there. And she met another pilgrim there with EXACTLY the same hiking boots she had and he told her that he was walking on painkillers because they also give him a lot of trouble. By the way, they are Meindl's, not just any hikingboot... Anyway, he came for new shoes too and Sarah found some relief in his story as she had wondered what she was doing "wrong"...
Fortunately, she had decided to take the day off today and give her feet some rest. Because we had already booked a room together in Lubian, she chose to take a taxi
So we are still together

After my second break at a gas station, the descent began for me. This one was quite challenging! Mud, ditches, streams, rocks and pebbles...I still had good energy and mostly enjoyed it, but I was also very happy that Sarah didn't have to do this challenging stage. This would have been impossible with such aching feet!

All in all, I arrived at our final destination relatively early, tired but satisfied. To my surprise we didn't have the expected room we rented, there had been a flooding and so we were upgraded to a real apartment for the same price
We have a living room with lovely lounge sofas, perfect shower, kitchen, and... a WASHING MACHINE

And upon entering I was met by Sarah, with a delicious home cooked meal, what an angel

Good way to gain some new strength for tomorrow! And fingers crossed that Sarah can continue walking...
We'll see...24km ahead tomorrow with again big differences in altitude.

I feel the pull of Santiago! ( And Axx waiting there for me ) Only 9 more stages
To be continued...

 

[pulso]

Good Morning Sunshine,

I hope "A Canda" is on.....stretches like chewing gum.

A Gudina you will find everything a pilgrim needs (supermarket, bar, bank) - Albergue de Peregrinos Casa da Viuva 6.- is oke, new and clean. Washing machine 3.-, "I think" .
The kitchen is probably not "connected" yet (but microwave ).

From tomorrow then ((only)) another 200 km "via Laza" - I'm so happy for you as if I were there - unbelievable!!!
Keep staying strong and confident - you are privileged and blessed.

Muchas gracias!!!

AH and abrazo
Pulso

 

[Kirkie]

Day 36 Via de la Plata/Sanabres from Puebla de Sanabria to Lubian, 30.4km.

I left early and on my own this morning for this long stage. It was still dark, luckily not that cold, and my legs were ready to go and filled with energy today

The first flat 12km I marched away in just over two hours, with an average speed of 5.8km per hour. My Samsunghealth bitch was over the moon

The first part was on the road, then it got a bit more challenging. Still flat but with mud, ditches, floodings and rocky terrain. I felt like a mountain goat and kept up the pace. And so it happened that, after 12 km, it was still before 10 am that I had my first break. In a cute village with a small café that was fortunately already open

The "dreaded" climb started soon after, which is partly on trails and partly on the road. Honestly, it wasn't too bad...ok, it was a good workout and I was able to peel off layers of clothing, but it never got exhausting and I found joy and admiration in the power of my body! I had to build that up from 0 several times after my heart attack and later complications, and now I just ′′ run ′′ up a big mountain without a struggle

And with that today I reached the highest point of this Camino, somewhere around 1300 meters. And there was even some snow!

Just before my second break at 21 km Sarah called me, she was in the shoe store and bought trail runners there. And she met another pilgrim there with EXACTLY the same hiking boots she had and he told her that he was walking on painkillers because they also give him a lot of trouble. By the way, they are Meindl's, not just any hikingboot... Anyway, he came for new shoes too and Sarah found some relief in his story as she had wondered what she was doing "wrong"...
Fortunately, she had decided to take the day off today and give her feet some rest. Because we had already booked a room together in Lubian, she chose to take a taxi
So we are still together

After my second break at a gas station, the descent began for me. This one was quite challenging! Mud, ditches, streams, rocks and pebbles...I still had good energy and mostly enjoyed it, but I was also very happy that Sarah didn't have to do this challenging stage. This would have been impossible with such aching feet!

All in all, I arrived at our final destination relatively early, tired but satisfied. To my surprise we didn't have the expected room we rented, there had been a flooding and so we were upgraded to a real apartment for the same price
We have a living room with lovely lounge sofas, perfect shower, kitchen, and... a WASHING MACHINE

And upon entering I was met by Sarah, with a delicious home cooked meal, what an angel

Good way to gain some new strength for tomorrow! And fingers crossed that Sarah can continue walking...
We'll see...24km ahead tomorrow with again big differences in altitude.

I feel the pull of Santiago! ( And Axx waiting there for me ) Only 9 more stages
To be continued...

I am one of many who are enjoying your camino with you, and Sarah. I feel her blister pain... and I was surprised to see that Meindl boots are culprits. A clear example that what suits one pair of feet does not necessarily suit another. The main thing is that Sarah can hopefully now trip along lightly in her new footwear.

 

[Ali@59]

I'm also enjoying Karins reports of their stages, having walked the sanabres last September its nice to hear about it in a different season. I remember from previous Caminos meeting quite a few Germans especially, who had really bad blisters while walking in meindl boots, I think it was probably the leather ones that didn't dry after wet days

 

[Karin309]

Day 37 Via de la Plata/Sanabres, from Lubian to A Gudiña, 25km.

So then...yesterday I felt like a mountain goat and ran my fastest average speed, today I was more of an overpacked mule, and it was my slowest stage.
This had everything to do with today's terrain and as an extra also a much heavier backpack; because it's warmer I now mainly wear the clothes in my backpack instead of on my body!

Yesterday was a workout, today was top sport!

The first 6 km went through a beautiful forest, steep uphill, rocky paths, mud, ditches, floods, fallen trees... it was climbing and scrambling. Somewhere along the way Sarah and I lost eachother; she decided to climb a steep path thinking this was the Camino. I saw on my route app that this was not the case and called out to her, but could no longer reach her.
The path was challenging enough as it was, and I decided to trust her self-reliance; she would find back the path herself.

I ended up walking alone for the rest of the day, through beautiful but often very challenging terrain. At the border with Galicia I also fell flat on my face... there was ice steep downhill and so I slid into Galicia pretty uncharmingly
Luckily I only bruised my ego

Today's route was one of the most beautiful so far, but also one of the toughest and both Sarah and I are quite exhausted.
She did not dare to walk on this terrain with her new shoes and therefore made the journey in her old boots.

She arrived at the albergue not long after me; a super nice place, heated, modern, great shower
Monica is also here. Unfortunately, her hips are bothering her so much that she has decided to take the bus to Ourense tomorrow, which is still three days of walking away for me.
And Sarah and I are also going to part tomorrow

The next two days I have to make daily stages of around 35 km, and that is really too far for Sarah. Moreover, she has 2 days longer to arrive in Santiago than I do..so this is where our paths part, for now.

Hopefully we will see each other in Fisterre, where I am going to walk with my Axx in three days, but Sarah will probably take the bus from Santiago
And of course we will stay in touch with each other

Now I have to get to work on taping Sarah's feet for the last time, and especially showing her how to do it herself over the next week.

And then tomorrow in solitude again... with a "monster stage", 35 km, 620 meters up, 1100 meters down
I'm sure it will be ok

 

[AlanSykes]

It is a monster, but it's a very lovely monster

 

[AfriCat]

Wow, I really don't remember...So many days, so many albergues...Maybe if you scroll back you can find it in my posts. Although the name Casa Salvadar does ring a bell, so that's probably it..

Thanks, that is where I ended up staying anyway - lovely family home and very friendly host!

 

[Betterisgood]

You can go for a swing


. View from the swing
Enjoy tomorrow it is a monster!!

 

[pulso]

Dear Karin,

again
(extremely) noteworthy what you are still "doing" at the moment (also your upcoming stage plan/in winter).....hui...

Are you under "time pressure" or do you feel SdC "adrenaline/spirit"?@!! (probably also Axx)
You are really incredibly strong!!!

Stay fascinated by your side - but only "virtually"

abrazo

 

[Karin309]

Day 38 Via de la Plata/Sanabres, from A Gudiña to Laza, 41.2km (!)

An early rise this morning for this long stage, about 34km is what the route app indicated, including a good 600m climb and 1100m descent.
So I left in the dark, after a last morning selfie with Sarah . She wanted to walk a shorter stage and first went out for a cup of coffee.

By myself again.... On the street before dawn and frankly; I love that . I love watching the sunrise while walking and to witness the world become light
And what a wonderful world today... This stage was so indescribably beautiful that I won't even try to describe it. Look at the pictures, or better yet; walk or cycle the Via Sanabres yourself... It doesn't get any better than this in my opinion

The terrain was easier than expected today. Ok, it was climbing and descending, but all of that on wide and pleasant trails. This day no climbing over boulders, no flooding and no mud puddles, not even ice to slip on
Wonderful to just march away the kilometers so easily and in such a beautiful environment... and to lose myself completely in the moment and all that beauty..

And so it happened that after about 7 km I ended up on a beautiful path, I was amazed during this wonderful descent
For a moment it did cross my mind that I had expected the descent in this day much later on in the stage, but the thought faded and I enjoyed the scenery.
Only to find out, after a fork without a yellow arrow, that I had completely strayed away from the Camino

The only option was to turn around, there was no other way to get back on the Camino. And yes, now I had to go back all the way... UPhill
I thought it was about 1.5 km that I had walked wrong (and therefore had to go back), but given my daily total it must have been double

I think I was bummed for 1 second...then I shrugged it off. I just have a great talent for getting lost and this is by far the most beautiful detour I've ever made

Six kilometers before Laza, in a deserted village, a nice surprise awaited me. There was no living soul to be seen but I heard music, and when I walked further I saw a donativo service point for pilgrims... Some chairs, a table with coffee, biscuits, cake and even soft drinks, and a lovely sofa that was located right in the sun What a treat that was! I plopped on the couch, poured a coke and took a big dip in the cookie jar
On departure, of course, I put some money in the safe. How wonderful that people do this, simply out of love for the Camino and its pilgrims

Despite the distance, walking was very easy today. The easily accessible terrain and the beauty obviously helped, but I also feel that my body is really used to walking all day now.
When I arrived in Laza I was tired but not exhausted. I could still have continued

I had to report to the ambulance/fire brigade office to get the key to the albergue, and was received very kindly. With the key in my pocket and some shopping done, I look for the albergue, which is a little outside the center.
I was even stopped by two paramedics in their car, who wished me luck and showed me the way to the inn. They are very committed to pilgrims here

The albergue is fantastic. I don't understand how they can do this for only 8 euros... A modern and new building, heated, spotlessly clean and a good kitchen! I had hoped for this because of the reviews I had read, and so I had taken the risk of getting groceries to cook for myself.
Fortunately I had more than enough energy for that, so I made a delicious omelette with spinach and paprika

Strength for tomorrow, then there will be another 34 km to conquer, that is, if I don't get lost

Btw, Sarah and I are in contact a lot , she reached her final destination for today and also enjoyed the beauty of this stage immensely

To be continued...

 

[peregrina2000]

Your description brings back so many good memories, thanks @Karin309.

The good thing about tomorrow is that there are two other places to stop before Xunqueira, but it sounds like you are in a groove and will do fine.

I’m assuming you will add a shell to the wall in Albergaría. I’ve got three there somewhere, and I would like you to locate mine when you are there.

I can’t imagine who designed the albergue in Xunqueira de Ambía and who thought that the deep dark rust exterior was attractive, but it is comfortable and has sex-segregated rooms if I remember correctly. That was a godsend for me on one occasion, but I don’t think you are walking at a time when you have to worry about snorers!

Have a great day tomorrow, loving your posts! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Paul-CH]

Dear Karin, thanks for your great daily reporting. I hope it will help me for my pilgrimage. So it means to watch out for the yellow signs even in the beautiful environment. At least the weather is nice and not so cold anymore. Thumbs up I am glad that you can enjoy it so much. Buen Camino, Paul

 

[Karin309]

Day 39 Via de la Plata/Sanabres from Laza to Xunqueira de Ambia, 33.8km.

I started early for another long stage, again with beautiful weather. The route out of Laza started relatively flat, but that quickly turned into a long and exhausting climb up to Albergaria. Beautiful, yes, but my legs had a hard time with it. Once there, I visited the famous inn in Albergaria, unfortunately no one was there but I could still admire all the shells with pilgrim names.
Only now no shell with my name is hanging there... which means I have to walk this Camino again one day
I stayed in touch with Sarah a lot along the way, and when I was resting in Albergaria she sent me a video that she left her shoes at the service point for pilgrims
It's not the only pair hanging there, by the way...

She was now on her trail runners on her way to Laza and wanted to see if she could take a bus from there for a bit..

In the meantime I continued onwards to Vilar de Barrio, the descent was at least as long, steep and challenging as the climb. With porridge in my legs I finally walked into the village when Sarah called me and asked if I had passed Vilar de Barrio yet...
She had taken a taxi from Laza and was sitting there in a cafe, less than a kilometer away from me

So an unexpected reunion, and she decided to walk with me for the remaining 14 km I had planned to walk.
Together again

Although we each walked our own pace for the last 10 km... The climb to and descent from Albergaria costed me quite a bit of strength, and the last kilometers today were pretty challenging for me.

Finally I reached the albergue, and went to bed almost immediately. Just to lay down and rest. Tomorrow I want to set off early, about 21km to go to Ourense, where I want to have the time in the afternoon to look around a bit.
Sarah will probably leave later, but with the same destination

To be continued...

 

[pulso]

Good Morning Sunshine,

Galician dream weather (until Fisterra) - if someone deserves it, then you........
(Sunshine "walks" in sunshine)

abrazo

 

[Karin309]

Day 40 Via de la Plata/Sanabres, from Xunqueira de Ambia to Ourense, 23.1km.

After a very restless and almost sleepless night I was fed up at 5.30 am. So back on my feet, and after the usual morning ritual of personal care, breakfast and packing my backpack, I was on the street at 6.30 am.
I walked in the dark for the first 1.5 hours, mostly along roads that were fortunately very quiet.
I have to say that this stage was the least inspiring of all. But physically also absolutely a piece of cake, and that is also nice for a change

There were many more buildings, and therefore also cafes where I could go for a coke and rest for quite a long time with the cafe cat purring on the couch next to me.

After that, traffic started to increase considerably and the area became downright industrial, not really pleasant to walk. But due to a long and inspiring telephone conversation with Axx, the kilometers disappeared by themselves and so I found myself at the cityborder of Ourense before noon

Honestly; I don't like cities and their restless energy... And now it turns out that carnival is also celebrated here
Upon entering the city, I quickly popped into a supermarket, where I was kindly helped by a dressed-up cashier with a mustache stuck on her face...

Further into the city it became even clearer to me; lots of dressed up people. Luckily I'm dressed as a pilgrim

That should be enough to get me into the festivities, although right now I prefer to rest and hopefully sleep early...if the noise of the city allows me to do that...

Sarah also reached Ourense later in the afternoon today, although she accidentally reserved a bed in another hostal.
She is also happy to leave the hustle and bustle of the city behind tomorrow... and so we will walk to the same destination tomorrow again!

Only 5 stages before Santiago... Luckily Fisterre adds at least three days