LIVE from the Camino Waiting for pilgrims in Canfranc

[J Willhaus]

Last night we ended up with four pilgrims. French, American, and Spanish. They were a lively crowd. Two beginning their first Caminos and two were experienced and former hospitaleras.

All had been quiet in town, but at 9:45 pm, a live band began playing at the bar next door. We tried to ignore the pounding drums and thankfully they ended their set for the night by 11:30 pm. That hasn't happened before and we are hoping it is a one time thing.

Today after pilgrims left, Phil and I hustled to the bus and went up to C. Estacion to buy a couple of liters of milk so there would be some cushion for the new hospitaleros on Monday. The beginnings of what looked like a lively cheese festival were taking shape. Imagine a narrow valley street with 25 vans and trucks jockeying for position amongst the regular Saturday tourist traffic to unload tables and canopies for cheese displays and sales. There were many colorful hand gestures along with honking and the slamming of brakes as someone tried to back into someone else's chosen spot.

Wish we had more time to observe and taste the wares, but there is Mass this morning at our village church and since it is only a twice monthly service, we didn't want to miss it. We hurried back to finish our cleaning and I was an hour off on the time so I had a few minutes for today's post.

We're expecting pilgrims tonight if they make it through the cheese gauntlet in C. Estacion. I have had several calls and I take that as a good sign. Our local contact says one night (only one night) they were full and had pilgrims on the sofas in the lounge. If we could only be so lucky!

 

[J Willhaus]

Five pilgrims tonight so far! One couple from France and they don't speak Spanish or English so our friend Mr Google is helping as he can. We have two Luis's. One is traveling alone and the other with Spanish hospitalera who has worked at Zamora and Ponferrada. When I offered them a drink of cool water she asked me if I had been to "the class" for hospitaleros. As it turns out we both have the same yellow hospitalera shirts made a few years ago for HosVol by Correos. She was also at the last formal HosVol Encuentro de Hospitaleros in Javier that Phil attended in 2018. Nice to have a few more pilgrims for our last two nights.

Our relief will come tomorrow afternoon and Phil and I will make our way back to Madrid on Monday. We have not met Juan Carlos who I believe is the FICS president, but hopefully he will find our books in good order when he does come at some point in the future.

Hard to believe we've been here two weeks and in Spain almost 6 weeks now. My Spanish has improved, but I think Phil has become more dependent on me to do the talking so he has not practiced as much. We'll resume our lessons again when we get home. Phil hopes to come back in November to either serve, walk, or go to language school and attend the 2022 Encuentro in Santiago in early December. We do love pilgrims, the Camino, and Spain.

 

[Northpole]

I am so glad you had more pilgrims tonight - and maybe even more than when you wrote the post. It has been so enjoyable to read your posts every day. Hope you have smooth handover tomorrow!

 

[J Willhaus]

As we near the end of our stay, I thought I would post links to forum threads from other years. We were initially inspired to become hospitaleros because Phil had a serious fall requiring surgery and could not walk a Camino. It was a terrible accident, but resulted in giving us much joy as we substituted a pilgrimage in place. Now we try to volunteer every year as needed. I've posted here links to our 2017 Zamora, 2018 Grañón, 2019 Estella, and Phil's 2021 solo experience at Caldazilla de los Hermanillos. Maybe one day after I am retired I'll put all these experiences together in a Camino ebook.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/waiting-for-pilgrims-in-zamora.52014/

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/waiting-for-pilgrims-in-gra%C3%B1%C3%B3n.59316/

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/welcoming-pilgrims-in-estella.63275/

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/waiting-for-pilgrims-in-calzadilla-de-los-hermanillos.71375/

 

[mspath]

Your daily posts filled with helpful comments and tips during these recent weeks have been a pleasure to read. Thank you also for sharing your earlier memories of the times that you and Phil have served as hospitaleros; I look forward to reading them.

May you both have a safe and comfortable journey home.

In the truest sense, Ultreia.

 

[Ianinam]

Thank you for your daily reports of your stay at Canfranc. It is nice to read how it is to be a hospitalero in a small albergue. This is totally different from working in a group of eight hospitaler@s at Roncesvalles, where I frequently work (this year in April, in July and will be back there in October). But big or small: in the end it is all the same: being a host for tired pilgrims, keeping the place clean, making their stay as comfortable as possibile and help them as good as you can with their little problems. Have a safe flight home!

 

[J Willhaus]

Paco, our relief hospi, has arrived. We went over things that may or may not have changed since last year. He was relieved to know the "pipes" were less smelly this year and pleased to see some new improvements and furnishings. He has gone now to reacquainted himself with local contacts.

It is almost 7 pm and there are no pilgrims yet tonight. Phil and I have our packs ready for the 7:42 bus.

We did have a family of six with Grandma, Mom, Dad, and three very young children stop in for stamps. They had walked together from Somport and were presumably staying in some kind of apartment with the kids.

We have enjoyed our time here and maybe @Rebekah Scott will ask us back for another time at this albergue or another seved by FICS. Phil hopes to be back later in the year and eventually I can join him for later trips when I retire in 20 months. I will let you know we've made it back to Madrid and then home, but this is essentially the end of this year's hospitalera thread. I hope there will be an opportunity next year for service, wherever we get assigned with either HosVol or FICS.

 

[Bala]

Your threads are always so enjoyable. Your warmth and hospitality come through with each post. I'm sure each pilgrim who's stayed has left with fomd memories.

Clicking on your links to past volunteer stints I realized I've followed you in real time on each of them. I look forward to following along again in the future .

Safe travels home!

 

[MaryLynn]

Paco, our relief hospi, has arrived. We went over things that may or may not have changed since last year. He was relieved to know the "pipes" were less smelly this year and pleased to see some new improvements and furnishings. He has gone now to reacquainted himself with local contacts.

It is almost 7 pm and there are no pilgrims yet tonight. Phil and I have our packs ready for the 7:42 bus.

We did have a family of six with Grandma, Mom, Dad, and three very young children stop in for stamps. They had walked together from Somport and were presumably staying in some kind of apartment with the kids.

We have enjoyed our time here and maybe @Rebekah Scott will ask us back for another time at this albergue or another seved by FICS. Phil hopes to be back later in the year and eventually I can join him for later trips when I retire in 20 months. I will let you know we've made it back to Madrid and then home, but this is essentially the end of this year's hospitalera thread. I hope there will be an opportunity next year for service, wherever we get assigned with either HosVol or FICS.

Thank you so much for taking the time to share your Hospitalero experience with us. It brought back good memories. I have been a hospitalera 8 times and each one was unique. It is a special experience to serve in an albergue, to meet the needs of the guests, and to live in a town on the Camino for two weeks.

 

[J Willhaus]

Last night was interesting. Paco arrived and then received a call from a fellow pilgrim who was on the train. It seems something happened to the brakes on the train and it had to be pushed from Sabiniango back to Huesca. Then everyone was loaded onto buses for Canfranc Estacion so a 4 hour trip became an 8 hour trip. Paco waited up for them and the 4 arrived at 12:30 am.

I got up early and put out the breakfast for him and two of the pilgrims who are catching the 7:07 bus to Somport. The other two will catch a later bus.

Also at 9:45 we had two faux pilgrims who tried to convince us they were the real deal. Paco and Phil punched holes in their story and sent them on their way.

We are up early had some coffee and waiting on the bus. There is no good bathroom at this time in the morningafter we leave here until Zaragoza at 11 am and I prefer not to go on the moving bus unless it is an emergency.

Phil had a peach for breakfast from a vendor who arrived yesterday afternoon selling local peaches(4 kinds!), nectarines, plums, and those huge heritage tomatoes. I bought 5 large peaches and they are going fast this morning. We have bocadillos and an apple each for lunch.

 

[VNwalking]

Just when you thought you were done with this thread...

something happened to the brakes on the train and it had to be pushed from Sabiniango back to Huesca. Then everyone was loaded onto buses for Canfranc Estacion so a 4 hour trip became an 8 hour trip. Paco waited up for them and the 4 arrived at 12:30 am.

Gulp. Glad all are OK, in the end.

Also at 9:45 we had two faux pilgrims who tried to convince us they were the real deal. Paco and Phil punched holes in their story and sent them on their way.

Grf. I assume this happens more in Canfranc than most places? It'd be interesting to hear what those two did to get to the bottom of the fake pilgrim's stories.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I assume this happens more in Canfranc than most places? It'd be interesting to hear what those two did to get to the bottom of the fake pilgrim's stories.

Don't know about fake pilgrims, but there is a very large number of weekend hikers up there.

 

[J Willhaus]

Just when you thought you were done with this thread...

Gulp. Glad all are OK, in the end.


Grf. I assume this happens more in Canfranc than most places? It'd be interesting to hear what those two did to get to the bottom of the fake pilgrim's stories.

Well, we only had it happen a few times. Sometimes people stop and ask, but when they don't have a credential it is pretty easy to weed them out.

These lads were a little smarter and answered my questions with half truths when I opened the door.
"Peregrinos?"
"Si, and we can speak English if you want."
(Clue one: Two teen boys hanging around with some local girls, who know we are Americans.)
"We have all the pilgrim equipment as you see."

I let them in and said "May I see your credentials?"
"Well we have one from last year when we walked from Sarria to Santiago, but right now we only have our phone to show you where we have walked."

Phil and Paco come to the entry and begin questioning in both Spanish and English. (Phil is a retired cop and military officer.)

"What do you mean you don't have a credential with you? You told her you were pilgrims" (Paco in Spanish)

"Yes. We are on the GR 10 which is the same as the Camino de Santiago. The priest at Sarance let us stay. We did not need a credential. We have walked from Pau. (Showing us the phone GPS tracks). Can we buy a credential?"

"I know the priest there and it is not likely he would let you impersonate pilgrims. I am not in charge yet here, but this is only for real pilgrims and not hikers who walked once to Santiago. I would not let you stay."(Paco in Spanish)

"We do have credentials for sale if you are really Pilgrims. How do I know you are not tricking us?" (Me in English, I have a soft spot for stinky boys after having three sons.)

"Yes, we will buy a credential. We have a credit card." (In English)

"No, there are other albergues that accept credit cards, but not this one. There is another one here in town and two in Villanua as well as a Youth hostel." (Phil in English)

"I will run to the ATM and get money. It is only 5 minutes. The other albergue is full and told us to try here." Hmmn do they have a car? No ATM here in our village.

"No, you may not stay here. Lo siento." (Phil in English and Spanish)

With that, Phil showed them out and they left.

(Approximation of the conversation with a lot of hand waving and some begging and shouting, with the aroma of unwashed boy feet permeating the room.)

 

[amancio]

Good job! I would love to be a hospitalero some time, but I do not have the assertion to tell somebody: "no, you are not allowed to stay here". I believe you are expecting a special pilgrim today

 

[J Willhaus]

Good job! I would love to be a hospitalero some time, but I do not have the assertion to tell somebody: "no, you are not allowed to stay here". I believe you are expecting a special pilgrim today

It will be Paco on duty. We are at the train station in Zaragoza waiting for our connection to Madrd.

 

[amancio]

It will be Paco on duty. We are at the train station in Zaragoza waiting for our connection to Madrd.

ok, have a safe trip back home, it was great to follow you in your days in Canfranc, I am looking forward to going back there soon!!!

 

[Saint Mike II]

It will be Paco on duty. We are at the train station in Zaragoza waiting for our connection to Madrd.

Have a safe journey home or to your next destination. Cheers and Buen Camino.

 

[Albertagirl]

Good job! I would love to be a hospitalero some time, but I do not have the assertion to tell somebody: "no, you are not allowed to stay here". I believe you are expecting a special pilgrim today

When I was a hospitalera at Emaus in Burgos, Marie Noelle admitted a young man without a credencial one evening. I believe that he said he had just arrived in Burgos to begin his camino. Perhaps Burgos is a usual place to start a camino and he could get a credencial elsewhere in town the next day. I was a little surprised.

 

[J Willhaus]

When I was a hospitalera at Emaus in Burgos, Marie Noelle admitted a young man without a credencial one evening. I believe that he said he had just arrived in Burgos to begin his camino. Perhaps Burgos is a usual place to start a camino and he could get a credencial elsewhere in town the next day. I was a little surprised.

Yes, it happens, especially when people are not completely truthful. I will start another thread about this soon. I have been thinking about when we call ourselves pilgrims, but have no intention to go to Santiago. Just following an interesting route or want to avoid the crowds on the last 100 km. Only a few I met the last two weeks intended (God willing) to go on to Santiago. Not sure the difference between a person walking only a part of one route and a hiker. Mindset or is there a difference? We can discuss it in another thread. I have a few more things to post about our trip yet here.

 

[J Willhaus]

Now about getting to Madrid from Canfranc Pueblo. We caught the Valley yellow bus at 7:42 am. Our neighbor, Jose Maria, walked out to the bus stop to say goodbye, invite us back, and make sure we had everything we needed to get back to Madrid. Such a wonderful person.

We caught the 8:30 bus from Jaca to Zaragoza and it was full!!! Glad I bought advance tickets. In Zaragoza we ate our ham and cheese bocadillos and apple quarters in the waiting area for the train.

We caught the 2:07 pm Oigo fast train to Madrid and arrived at 3:26. A word about this line. It was significantly cheaper than any other route. We traveled for 15 Euros each with no senior discount. It was like the Ryan Air, Easy Jet, Vueling combination train ride in one. Double decker car seating. Rack above not large enough for a Camino backpack and luggage compartments too small. Very little legroom. Not a problem for me, but Phil played footsie with the other three tall men in his seating bank.

It's cheap and you can only book online with them, but just beware. Book directly with them or we did it on the trainline App and printed our tickets in advance at the tourism office.

Sitting now in our air conditioned AC hotel in Madrid near Atocha station sipping adult beverages. Will see the museums the next two days as it will be HOT and take the yellow Airport Express bus to our flight on Thursday for 5 Euros each. Leaves from outside the Cercanías station at Atocha.

 

[Phil W]

Now about getting to Madrid from Canfranc Pueblo. We caught the Valley yellow bus at 7:42 am. Our neighbor, Jose Maria, walked out to the bus stop to say goodbye, invite us back, and make sure we had everything we needed to get back to Madrid. Such a wonderful person.

We caught the 8:30 bus from Jaca to Zaragoza and it was full!!! Glad I bought advance tickets. In Zaragoza we ate our ham and cheese bocadillos and apple quarters in the waiting area for the train.

We caught the 2:07 pm Oigo fast train to Madrid and arrived at 3:26. A word about this line. It was significantly cheaper than any other route. We traveled for 15 Euros each with no senior discount. It was like the Ryan Air, Easy Jet, Vueling combination train ride in one. Double decker car seating. Rack above not large enough for a Camino backpack and luggage compartments too small. Very little legroom. Not a problem for me, but Phil played footsie with the other three tall men in his seating bank.

It's cheap and you can only book online with them, but just beware. Book directly with them or we did it on the trainline App andnpronted our tickets in advance at the tourism office.

Sitting now in our air conditioned AC hotel in Madrid near Atoche station sipping adult beverages. Will see the museums the next two days as it will be HOT and take the yellow Airport Express bus to our flight on Thursday for 5 Euros each. Leaves from outside the Cercanis station at

Now about getting to Madrid from Canfranc Pueblo. We caught the Valley yellow bus at 7:42 am. Our neighbor, Jose Maria, walked out to the bus stop to say goodbye, invite us back, and make sure we had everything we needed to get back to Madrid. Such a wonderful person.

We caught the 8:30 bus from Jaca to Zaragoza and it was full!!! Glad I bought advance tickets. In Zaragoza we ate our ham and cheese bocadillos and apple quarters in the waiting area for the train.

We caught the 2:07 pm Oigo fast train to Madrid and arrived at 3:26. A word about this line. It was significantly cheaper than any other route. We traveled for 15 Euros each with no senior discount. It was like the Ryan Air, Easy Jet, Vueling combination train ride in one. Double decker car seating. Rack above not large enough for a Camino backpack and luggage compartments too small. Very little legroom. Not a problem for me, but Phil played footsie with the other three tall men in his seating bank.

It's cheap and you can only book online with them, but just beware. Book directly with them or we did it on the trainline App andnpronted our tickets in advance at the tourism office.

Sitting now in our air conditioned AC hotel in Madrid near Atoche station sipping adult beverages. Will see the museums the next two days as it will be HOT and take the yellow Airport Express bus to our flight on Thursday for 5 Euros each. Leaves from outside the Cercanis station at Atoche.

This more mature (older) partner would prefer to spend a bit more if we can afford it for more comfort. Guess I'm spoiled.
Phil

 

[Former member 49149]

Now about getting to Madrid from Canfranc Pueblo. We caught the Valley yellow bus at 7:42 am. Our neighbor, Jose Maria, walked out to the bus stop to say goodbye, invite us back, and make sure we had everything we needed to get back to Madrid. Such a wonderful person.

We caught the 8:30 bus from Jaca to Zaragoza and it was full!!! Glad I bought advance tickets. In Zaragoza we ate our ham and cheese bocadillos and apple quarters in the waiting area for the train.

We caught the 2:07 pm Oigo fast train to Madrid and arrived at 3:26. A word about this line. It was significantly cheaper than any other route. We traveled for 15 Euros each with no senior discount. It was like the Ryan Air, Easy Jet, Vueling combination train ride in one. Double decker car seating. Rack above not large enough for a Camino backpack and luggage compartments too small. Very little legroom. Not a problem for me, but Phil played footsie with the other three tall men in his seating bank.

It's cheap and you can only book online with them, but just beware. Book directly with them or we did it on the trainline App andnpronted our tickets in advance at the tourism office.

Sitting now in our air conditioned AC hotel in Madrid near Atoche station sipping adult beverages. Will see the museums the next two days as it will be HOT and take the yellow Airport Express bus to our flight on Thursday for 5 Euros each. Leaves from outside the Cercanis station at Atoche.

I so love your description: 'sipping adult beverages...'
I admire your capacity to persevere in recounting details without breaking any confidences.
It is so clear in your accounts that you have absorbed the essence of being hospitaleros, and I am sure you have waved off many happy pilgrims during the last fortnight. Well done, thank you.

 

[J Willhaus]

This more mature (older) partner would prefer to spend a bit more if we can afford it for more comfort. Guess I'm spoiled.
Phil

Live and learn!!! I had no idea at the time why the tickets were so cheap and it was even faster than the Renfe AVE! Also a good experience if I ever want to give Rick Steve's a little competition with my experience on the train lines...

 

[J Willhaus]

I so love your description: 'sipping adult beverages...'
I admire your capacity to persevere in recounting details without breaking any confidences.
It is so clear in your accounts that you have absorbed the essence of being hospitaleros, and I am sure you have waved off many happy pilgrims during the last fortnight. Well done, thank you.

I love it for a couple of weeks. It replaces the "nursing" which is a part of my profession (teaching others nursing and caregiving at the University) and reminds me why I became a nurse to begin with! I walked Paco through the recipe for chocolate chip banana bread and will send it in Spanish on WhatsApp. He was interested in how to recycle the plantanos negro or overripe bananas.

 

[amancio]

I love it for a couple of weeks. It replaces the "nursing" which is a part of my profession (teaching others nursing and caregiving at the University) and reminds me why I became a nurse to begin with! I walked Paco through the recipe for chocolate chip banana bread and will send it in Spanish on WhatsApp. He was interested in how to recycle the plantanos negro or overripe bananas.

well, if you need help translating the recipe to Spanish, please feel free to send me a PM, I will be very happy to translate it in exchange for knowing it and being able to do something with those bananas that show some slightly darker molecules and are thus rendered as "unedible" by grumpy teenagers

 

[J Willhaus]

At home I would use 3 mashed bananas. (I keep them in the freezer until I have 3 total), 1 egg, 1/4 cup of sugar, 1/2 cup of corn or sunflower oil. Mix with a mixer or by hand.
Measure dry ingredients in a separate bowl. 2 cups of flour, 1 teaspoon of baking soda.
Combine and mix dry and wet ingredients and add 1/2 cup of milk or slightly more until a batter forms. Stir in walnuts and chocolate chips gently and then transfer to two small greased aluminum loaf pans (or one bigger greased loaf pan). Bake at 200 degrees centigrade or at home at altitude 375 F. Takes 30 to 45 minutes to bake depending on the altitude (I live at 7200 feet or over 2,000 meters).

I had to eyeball all amounts in Spain as all measuring cups I had were metric and the metric scales were not working. I also had to buy a bar of dark sweetened baking chocolate and chop it up since some stores did not have chocolate chips.

It came out fine each time even though I forgot the sugar once. Pilgrims gobbled it up anyway. Two loaves never lasted more than two days.

 

[amancio]

At home I would use 3 mashed bananas. (I keep them in the freezer until I have 3 total), 1 egg, 1/4 cup of sugar, 1/2 cup of corn or sunflower oil. Mix with a mixer or by hand.
Measure dry ingredients in a separate bowl. 2 cups of flour, 1 teaspoon of baking soda.
Combine and mix dry and wet ingredients and add 1/2 cup of milk or slightly more until a batter forms. Stir in walnuts and chocolate chips gently and then transfer to two small greased aluminum loaf pans (or one bigger greased loaf pan). Bake at 200 degrees centigrade or at home at altitude 375 F. Takes 30 to 45 minutes to bake depending on the altitude (I live at 7200 feet or over 2,000 meters).

I had to eyeball all amounts in Spain as all measuring cups I had were metric and the metric scales were not working. I also had to buy a bar of dark sweetened baking chocolate and chop it up since some stores did not have chocolate chips.

It came out fine each time even though I forgot the sugar once. Pilgrims gobbled it up anyway. Two loaves never lasted more than two days.

yes, adapting "cups" to the metric system is a nightmare, and ir you are talking about baking, you need to be very precise in quantities, otherwise, it just does not work

 

[J Willhaus]

Went to the Prado today and saw another third of it. Saw the first third a few years ago. Will see the last third for another trip. Tomorrow the Sophia Reina and the Thyssen and I know there will be more to see on the future. It is super hot in Madrid so be careful if you are walking right now.

If you go, buy the advance tickets online for a specific entry time at the Prado. Line for the ticket window was very long! Saw this flock if cute green parrots on the way. Does anyone know if they are natural residents here or zoo escapees who have done well for themselves?

 

[peregrina2000]

I know you haven’t asked for Museum recommendations, but since I see a lot of museums on your daily schedule, I thought I would suggest two more to put on the list. Or maybe you’ve already been there. One is the Sorolla museum, which is housed in his former residence in a lovely residential part of Madrid. It’s like a little oasis among a lot of apartment buildings. He is by far Spain’s most beloved impressionist.

https://www.culturaydeporte.gob.es/msorolla/inicio.html

The other is the national archaeological museum. It was closed for maybe almost a decade and has reopened in the last few years as a spectacular place to visit all sorts of archaeological treasures. Visigothic crowns, Roman mosaics, And the famous Dama de Elche.

MAN - Museo Arqueológico Nacional

MAN - Museo Arqueológico Nacional

www.man.es

I love Madrid!!!

 

[J Willhaus]

Today we went to the Sophia Reina and Thyssen museums. Again only saw a little to save something for other visits. Loved them both. Comparing them to the Guggenheim in Bilbao might be unfair, but the Guggenheim falls fourth on our list as of now. Really loved the Thyssen and saw more paintings by artists I recognize in one place.

Now packing up and getting ready for our trip home. We have decided to take a cab rather than the discount option of the Airport Shuttle. The shuttle requires us to haul our stuff through the streets at 3 am or earlier to catch the bus for 5 euros each. A cab will meet us here at the hotel and drop us off at our terminal. I will let you know the cost.

We have a checked bag of pocket knife, hiking poles, and various dirty clothes and we will carry on our packs with CPAP machines, toiletries, and a change of clean clothes in case we get stuck somewhere. Fingers crossed we don't .

 

[WestKirsty]

Today we went to the Sophia Reina and Thyssen museums. Again only saw a little to save something for other visits. Loved them both. Comparing them to the Guggenheim in Bilbao might be unfair, but the Guggenheim falls fourth on our list as of now. Really loved the Thyssen and saw more paintings by artists I recognize in one place.

Now packing up and getting ready for our trip home. We have decided to take a cab rather than the discount option of the Airport Shuttle. The shuttle requires us to haul our stuff through the streets at 3 am or earlier to catch the bus for 5 euros each. A cab will meet us here at the hotel and drop us off at our terminal. I will let you know the cost.

We have a checked bag of pocket knife, hiking poles, and various dirty clothes and we will carry on our packs with CPAP machines, toiletries, and a change of clean clothes in case we get stuck somewhere. Fingers crossed we don't .

Oooooo...good museums! Nice choices...

Just wanted to say a big thank you for all of your posts and sharing your journey here! I've really enjoyed reading your updates and as a novice hospitalera, have been inspired by your hospitality and work at the albergue!

Safe journey home and Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

We have decided to take a cab rather than the discount option of the Airport Shuttle.

Good idea! The fixed price for a taxi to and from the airport has been set at 30€ but it may have gone up because of fuel prices. Check with your hotel because they will know. I think the main reason they instituted the fixed price to the airport was because so many tourists were getting ripped off by the taxi drivers.

 

[VNwalking]

Art galore! (Thyssen is special.)
Safe and uncomplicated journey home, you two - thanks for sharing your time with all of us.

Saw this flock if cute green parrots on the way. Does anyone know if they are natural residents here or zoo escapees who have done well for themselves?

Those cuties are total pests. Introduced but now breeding in the wild. A lot.

The other is the national archaeological museum. It was closed for maybe almost a decade and has reopened in the last few years as a spectacular place to visit all sorts of archaeological treasures. Visigothic crowns, Roman mosaics, And the famous Dama de Elche.

MAN - Museo Arqueológico Nacional

MAN - Museo Arqueológico Nacional

www.man.es

I love Madrid!!!

Oh, wonderful news! (Second your sentiments, Laurie...)

 

[crhutch]

When I was a hospitalera at Emaus in Burgos, Marie Noelle admitted a young man without a credencial one evening. I believe that he said he had just arrived in Burgos to begin his camino. Perhaps Burgos is a usual place to start a camino and he could get a credencial elsewhere in town the next day. I was a little surprised.

Why would you be surprised? Not everyone starts at SJPD. I too have worked as a Hospitalero at Emaus and we had credencials to sell if a pilgrim needed.

 

[J Willhaus]

Yes, airport taxi still 30 euros right now. Long lines at the airport even at 4 am. Everyone but Phil and I seems to be moving all their worldly possessions. Don't know when I have seen so many giant suitcases!!! Waiting at our gate. Will let you knowvwhen we make it home. Thanks for the answer to the parrot question @VNwalking.

 

[J Willhaus]

Hi all,
Home safe and sound. Met many people on the way home who have walked or who plan to walk. I was wearing my American Pilgrims on the Camino polo shirt so it was a conversation starter. I will be on the forum less often as I transition back to work. Phil hopes to return alone in November and early December to maybe run an albergue, go to school, and or attend the Encuentro of Hospitaleros that HosVol volunteers attend in early December.
Janet

 

[Bala]

Welcome home!

 

[alwalker]

Our Spanish hospitalera is on her way home. We had a wide ranging conversation last evening complete with showing photos of kids and grandkids. I was surprised how much I could say and understand. I told her we took Spanish lessons each week and she said she could understand me well. Phil understands a lot, but has more trouble getting the words out

I met several of the townfolk as she, Phil, and I watched the evening activities in and around the plaza and the two bars. Only the two pilgrims last night, but someone called today to ask about reservations for tomorrow. I told him we don't take reservations. But we are seldom full so we will likely see him tomorrow.

There is a festival in Canfranc Estacion this weekend and we're getting lots of tourist traffic at the bars and walking through town. The festival is for the revival of the station which is being remodeled into a hotel. Music, football games, Bingo, stuff for kids. Etc.

Church is today at 12:30 so we will attend. The albergue is clean now and I made a few salad dishes to tide us over until we go to the store on Monday or Tuesday.

More when we know who is joining us tonight! I counted and it looks like about 70 pilgrims total for the previous 15 days so I hope we can beat that!

Are food stores are available locally ? (other than two bars).

 

[J Willhaus]

Are food stores are available locally ? (other than two bars).

There are two stores in Canfranc Estacion before you arrive and a grocery store in the next town past us. One of the bars has a few canned goods, bread, and eggs, but no fresh foods like fruit or vegetables.

 

[alwalker]

The dining arrangements here in Canfranc are limited to bringing something with you to cook or eating at one of the two bars. El Mentidero 2.0 (roughly translated to the Gossip) is next door and offers al fresco dining and drinks. Their kitchen is somehow linked into the albergue electrical system so the staff are often coming in through the back door to flip breakers on when things get lively.

The other bar is somehow associated with the ApartmentHotel building across the square. They also offer alfresco dining and drinks.

All the bar food is racions or tapas and much of it is fried. No salads or pilgrim menues or combination plates. Although tasty, I cannot survive on fried calamari and patas bravas for 2 plus weeks.

Today I made my first trip to Jaca by bus to buy some things for Phil and I and for the albergue. We keep these purchases separate as albergue cleaning and breakfast supplies are purchased from the donations we receive from pilgrims.

The bus runs up and down the valley several times each day. With our morning cleaning and an opening time of 2 pm we need to take the 10:11 bus to Jaca and return at noon. It is bright yellow so not easy to miss. I was dropped off at the bus station in Jaca and the bus left again from the same point.

Let me say that Monday mid-day is not the least busy time to shop at the Dia in Jaca. Not only were there shoppers, but enormous carts of fruits and vegetables for restocking in this store with rather narrow aisles. I filled two large reusable grocery bags with as much as I could carry. Essentials items for the albergue included TP, bananas, oranges, bathroom cleaning products, milk and some breakfast muffins. For Phil and I, I got salad stuff, fruit and vegetables, eggs, cheese, and some yogurt.

We'll be fine for a few more days now and I did see two other grocery stores near the bus station as we were heading back to town. Lots of riders on the noon bus and most appeared to be heading further up the hill than me. It is 1.75 each way which seems reasonable given the cost of fuel. Hospitaleros who live closer (France or Spain) might drive and then could make less frequent trips with a larger list.

Please ignore my earlier question regarding food stores - this covers it nicely.

 

[HeidiL]

I have loved reading about your hospitalero experiences, and would like to ask you about your contacts. I have done three shifts at FICS albergues, who should I talk to about other albergues? Zamora at Christmas sounds fun...

 

[J Willhaus]

If you have had the training, contact Hosvol by email. They require training. The volunteer coordinator is Anai. It has 2 dots over the i but I can't make my phone do it. Tell her when you are available and she will place you or if you request a specific place depending on the time of year you may need to wait for an answer. She places newly trained hospitaleros first. Hosvol has a great meeting in early December. This year it is in Santiago. My husband hoped to go but some family emergencies had squashed that idea.
administracion@caminosantiago.org

 

[aussieredhat]

Does anyone know of a video that does a tour of this a lbergue ( Canfranc Pueblo )

 

[LavanyaLea]

Does anyone know of a video that does a tour of this a lbergue ( Canfranc Pueblo )

From 5:30 for the albergue. But watch the whole video for the stage from Somport!

 

[J Willhaus]

@Vacajoe posted one last year, too. It is on the Aragones thread somewhere or maybe he will repost.

 

[Vacajoe]

My wife did one for our friends to see, but allowed me to share it here. It is from October 2021, but little has changed at the albergue. It’s a wonderful place in a magical valley - I highly recommend a stay there if you walk the Aragones!

 

[Former member 104756]

I've walked the Aragones twice - so many reasons to do it again. Including the opportunity to stay at this wonderful albergue.

 

[aussieredhat]

Thank you for the video link

 

[LavanyaLea]

Such a great looking albergue! But they don’t allow dogs and doesn’t look like there’s space to pitch up

 

[Vacajoe]

Such a great looking albergue! But they don’t allow dogs and doesn’t look like there’s space to pitch up

True on both counts! It’s in the center of the village which has a number of resident street cats, working dogs, one cow, a couple of horses, a donkey, and a few hundred sheep and goats. Tents and/or pilgrim dogs would be problematic for that location.

 

[LavanyaLea]

True on both counts! It’s in the center of the village which has a number of resident street cats, working dogs, one cow, a couple of horses, a donkey, and a few hundred sheep and goats. Tents and/or pilgrim dogs would be problematic for that location.

The top floor balcony perhaps?

 

[J Willhaus]

There are certainly lots of people in this area camping in caravans and vans just outside of town though. We had several who wanted to come shower and/or use our facilities which is not allowed for nonpilgrims. This is a big tourism area so there are likely other places that may accept pets.

 

[Trevor Gaymans]

We are on the train headed for our hospitalero duties at Canfranc Pueblo. We walked as pilgrims the first part of this trip on the Camino Aragones and a few days on the Camino Frances also spent a week being tourists in Spain for the first time in 6 trips here.

Our train journey from Zaragoza was about 11 euros each with a Tarjeta Dorada discount. You must purchase the TD in person (6 euros) at a Renfe station and show proper documentation that you are 60 or older. We've made multiple train journeys this trip so the card has paid for itself. We have been asked to show the card on several occasions when the ticket were bought online.

The train to Canfrac Estacion runs twice daily and takes about 4 hours. Because it is a regional train it makes many stops, but it is comfortable and has a bathroom on board. Bring your own snacks and drinks as there is no dining car. We boarded at 8:43 and should arrive at Canfranc Estacion at 12:30 or so.

We have notified the current hospitalera that we'll arrive this afternoon. We stayed as pilgrims at the albergue a few weeks ago so already know how to get there and bit about it.

Hello Mr Wilhaus, I am considering to volunteer for Hospitalero duty at Canfranc sometime in 2023 (June/July) and so I’d be extremely grateful if you could share some information about the Albergue, eg. the average number of pilgrims per day, whether the Albergue has a kitchen for pilgrims to prepare meals, the size of the village and the distance to the local store and restaurants/bars.
Any such like info will be useful to me. Thank you

 

[Vacajoe]

I can help with that! Canfranc Pueblo is a very small villa, but it offers great hiking and interesting sites nearby for your spare hours.

Permanent residents in the village number less than 50, but summer and weekends bring back a lot of people with second homes there. There is a bar (with a VERY small grocery section) that shares a wall with the albergue as well as a second bar steps away. The entire village is VERY small, so that’s it for local resources. The nearest grocery store is an hour walk uphill or downhill to the neighboring, larger villages. A local bus runs several times a day that you should be able to use to reach those stores and return before the albergue reopens in the afternoon.

Average number of pilgrims is tough to state as we were still dealing with Covid effects last year. Also, as the albergue gets more notice, expect the numbers to increase. There are 16 beds for pilgrims, but the Aragon route is still under-utilized so there may be days in the summer were some of those go unfilled.

The albergue is three stories with a kitchen on the ground floor and another on the top floor. Depending on how the hospitaleros set it up, the ground floor kitchen may be off-limits to pilgrims. The albergue has an extensive inventory of dishes, utensils, pots/pans, etc.

Overall, it’s a lovely place to serve. FICS and the village of Canfranc Pueblo should be proud of what they have created there.

 

[Flog]

The canfrance pueblo/ village Albergue is in the middle of a section/ stage , and many pilgrims pass thru as too early to stop.

• Camino Francés por Aragón

Canfranc-Estación

» 4.4 km »

Canfranc

» 4.8 km »

VillanúaView attachment 138809

That would depend on how you define the middle of a stage. If you came in off the Camino Arles having overnighted at Borce or Urdos for example as some do, you would be arriving at the end of a long and tough day. Also, many pilgrims arrive at Canfranc Estacion by bus or train and walk/bus/taxi up to the Somport Pass to begin walking down and so arrive late afternoon.

I believe the Albergue sign is not easy to see.

The camino passes right by the door of Albergue Elías Valiña, it's listed on Gronze with a map and pictures and a new sign was put on the waĺl outside when it was officially opened last year. I don't think finding it would be an issue.

While there are good cooking & kitchen facilities there is hardly any food supplies in this tiny village.

Again this needn't be an issue:
You pass two supermarkets, a butchers and tienda in Canfranc Estacion, a gasolinera with a limited supply of groceries just before the village and another small tienda in the bar right next door, again with a limited but adequite supply.

So there you go. The Camino Aragonês doesn't leave you spoilt for choice in the way the Camino Frances does, but you aren't likely to starve or get (too) lost..

 

[J Willhaus]

Hello Mr Wilhaus, I am considering to volunteer for Hospitalero duty at Canfranc sometime in 2023 (June/July) and so I’d be extremely grateful if you could share some information about the Albergue, eg. the average number of pilgrims per day, whether the Albergue has a kitchen for pilgrims to prepare meals, the size of the village and the distance to the local store and restaurants/bars.
Any such like info will be useful to me. Thank you

I see both @Flog and @Vacajoe have responded above and they are also members of the forum who have served at Canfranc. In July last year the most pilgrims we had was 6 or 7. Most nights we had only two or three.

If you want to volunteer, please contact @Rebekah Scott who is a forum member as well. You can send a private message here on the forum.

 

[Flog]

Comments/Post are based on actual on the ground hospitalero experience .
Pilgrims walk many & varied paths & days

Yes, they do.. which again would question your assertion that it's ''in the middle of a stage''. I have simply countered your three negative statements with three factual positive ones. Oh, and me too. I have walked the Aragonês twice and also served as hospi in that albergue twice.

 

[Trevor Gaymans]

I can help with that! Canfranc Pueblo is a very small villa, but it offers great hiking and interesting sites nearby for your spare hours.

Permanent residents in the village number less than 50, but summer and weekends bring back a lot of people with second homes there. There is a bar (with a VERY small grocery section) that shares a wall with the albergue as well as a second bar steps away. The entire village is VERY small, so that’s it for local resources. The nearest grocery store is an hour walk uphill or downhill to the neighboring, larger villages. A local bus runs several times a day that you should be able to use to reach those stores and return before the albergue reopens in the afternoon.

Average number of pilgrims is tough to state as we were still dealing with Covid effects last year. Also, as the albergue gets more notice, expect the numbers to increase. There are 16 beds for pilgrims, but the Aragon route is still under-utilized so there may be days in the summer were some of those go unfilled.

The albergue is three stories with a kitchen on the ground floor and another on the top floor. Depending on how the hospitaleros set it up, the ground floor kitchen may be off-limits to pilgrims. The albergue has an extensive inventory of dishes, utensils, pots/pans, etc.

Overall, it’s a lovely place to serve. FICS and the village of Canfranc Pueblo should be proud of what they have created there.

Thank you Vacajoe, that’s most informative.
Any tips on best way to travel from Barcelona? or Pamplona?

 

[J Willhaus]

Barcelona- take the AVE train to Zaragoza and the Media distance train to Canfranc Estación. Walk down or take the Yellow bus down to Canfranc Pueblo. Or you can take the bus from Zaragoza to Jaca and transfer to the Yellow bus up to Canfranc Pueblo.

From Pamplona train to Zaragoza then same as from Barcelona.

Combined Zaragoza bus/train station is awesome but the restaurants are not that great. There is even a hotel if your connections require an overnight.

 

[Vacajoe]

There is also a regional bus from Pamplona to Jaca, where you can then catch local bus up the hill to Pueblo. Travel time would be less than an hour, but add in time for the connection in Jaca. If you have a long wait, its a great city with a wonderful museum of religious frescoes rescued from deteriorating churches in the area. Plus here are numerous restaurants and shops.

 

[J Willhaus]

The local bus line Pamplona to Jaca is La Burundesa. Autobus Bidean. Usually runs daily in the afternoon with different times on Saturday and Sunday. Photo from June 2022 of schedule. Check for current times.

 

[J Willhaus]

Yellow bus Jaca to Somport schedule June 2022.

 

[Vacajoe]

Thanks for posting those! Cyndi and I walked Pamplona to Jaca on the north side of the Yesa Embalse a few years back. amazing to follow the old Aragon Camino path, but zero resources on that stage from Leyre to Puente la Reina de Jaca. The bus is a bit faster....

 

[Trevor Gaymans]

Thanks for posting those! Cyndi and I walked Pamplona to Jaca on the north side of the Yesa Embalse a few years back. amazing to follow the old Aragon Camino path, but zero resources on that stage from Leyre to Puente la Reina de Jaca. The bus is a bit faster....

Thank you you your feedback.
I’ll be doing a 3rd stint at Salamanca 2nd half of May 2023 and have some logistics to solve in order to do a stint (if needed) at Canfranc, but this would be after walking the Aragonesse. With a bad knee, I’m not sure if It will be advisable to start at Somport. Any suggestions will be welcome.

 

[Vacajoe]

How’s the knee on downhill trails? I think Somport to Jaca is the best part of the Camino Aragon, so definitely worth it if you can physically do it. You can keep that portion fairly short, too, with Somport to Pueblo being about two hours and then hike down to Jaca the next day (about four hours).

 

[Trevor Gaymans]

How’s the knee on downhill trails? I think Somport to Jaca is the best part of the Camino Aragon, so definitely worth it if you can physically do it. You can keep that portion fairly short, too, with Somport to Pueblo being about two hours and then hike down to Jaca the next day (about four hours).

It’s the down, down that hurts but since that’s the best section, I’ll strap it and ice it after. I survived the Primitivo a 3
years ago, so I should be okay.
Thanks again for your advice.

 

[Flog]

While it's a steep enough descent from Somport down into Estacion, I would be more concerned with the uneven ground in places, as far as Villanua. So no harm taking it a bit slow anyway, and there are plenty of nice places to rest and enjoy the views too! It's a spectacular valley!