LIVE from the Camino Camino de Sagunto

[filly]

Spurred on by my excellent experience on the Camino de la Lana last year, my aim this year is to hike this trail, specifically to visit Teruel, Albarracín (off trail but ‘cella vaut le détour!) and Soria. I am trying to cover Spain and am gradually moving eastwards.

There is little information and certainly no pilgrim infrastructure. Several of the links posted no longer ‘function’. However, Alan Sykes did post last year but only as far as Calayatud.. Douglas Johnson has the trails on his site but it is ‘theoretical’ in so far as he confirms he has not walked them..

Peregrina2000 speaks so highly of Soria - that was an incentive in itself!

My only option on this hike is to make my own way from Calayatud onwards. The trail is actually marked thanks to some enterprising Spaniards. However, my contact with them has not borne fruit.. They hike ‘backwards’ on occasion and this made me realise that they were driving to locations and making day walks… One day trail record is actually incorrect….

Most importantly, as Alan Sykes correctly stated, there is no accommodation near the trail after Calayatud. (Apparently a hostel in Aniñon but only 14kms further on.)

My solution is to have three very long days, with a fair amount of roadway, and to create my own trail. On the plus side, I have found good accommodation and will be spending two nights on occasion. I plan to post as I go along. Booking.com has been invaluable. Alan Sykes gives fabulous descriptions and historical, geographical background but little in terms of phone numbers and overnight locations.

Camino de Santiago de Sagunto a Burgos – Busca tu destino

mandresvila.com

I am flying to Valencia mid-May. Then beginning at Puerto de Sagunto. From Soria I shall take a bus to Logroño, spend a night there, then onwards by bus to Bilbao for two nights and flight back to the UK. Accommodation prices seem reasonable but certainly for solvent pilgrims only… I have noticed that prices generally in Spain are edging up towards a European norm. Booking early and out of the main season seems advisable.

 

[filly]

Arrived today from a drizzly Gatwick. How times have changed! Valencia positively buzzing and 30 degrees Celsius. Staying in my first (and probably last…) pod hostel. Soulless. Highlight was the university botanical gardens and a graphic art expo at the Ayuntamiento. Also a moving expo with photos of the bombing of Valencia during the Civil War with a visit to a shelter. Spain is coming to terms with this period ( viz film ‘Madres Parallelas’ of Almadovar ).

So pleased to be back! Last time it was the starting point of the Camino de Levante.

 

[filly]

Hot off the press! Fab place to eat is CAMALÉON BAR on Carrer Albacete. Divine late night cheesecake (casera) with a glass of tinto!

 

[filly]

Hot off the press! Fab place to eat is CAMALÉON BAR on Carrer Albacete. Divine late night cheesecake (casera) with a glass of tinto!

 

[filly]

Back at Camaleón Bar. Did not book but told that I had to vacate my table for 10.30 pm!!!
I have walked 18kms each day roaming Valencia. It is much more popular now and rightly so. Quite delightful.
Cooler with some cloud cover and a late afternoon breeze.
The Ayuntamiento is well worth a visit. Grand room and staircase; lovely views from the balcony; even a small
museum.
A fascinating photographic expo near the main food market.
A visit to the Ceramic Museum (free to ‘jubilados’ on presentation of proof of age - so ‘charmant’ to be queried about that!) A building that is as stunning outside as inside.
Followed by a saunter down the ‘rambla’ riverbed to the City of Sciences and the fab Calatrava buildings.
The Museo de Belles Arts is free to all and boasts a great assortment of Joaquin Sorolla y Bastida paintings - one of my favourite Spanish artists. (The stunners are in the Hispanic Museum in NYC). An especially touching portrait of his parents together.
So tomorrow, ready to roll and roam.
Now that I am that much older, I am learning to spend time relishing Spain plus having a reduced bavkpack.
The weather is perfect.
I am on the 08.00 Cercania from the North Station to Sagunt/Sagunto.
OhI forgot… My Capsule Inn Valencia is on Sant Vincert Martir which is also the way out on the Camino de Levante!
My dinner is served… and there are unexpected ‘pimento de Padron’. Delish…

 

[filly]

 

[filly]

En route! A perfect day. Blue skies and a breeze - I am pleased to have a chin strap though for those sudden gusts!
Marking much better than I expected.
Lovely baroque churches… market stalls and bars aplenty!
I took a Cercania (suburban) train from Valencia Nord. Bought a Renfe ticket yesterday… bad move as it is only valid for two hours. The rechargeable card is 50 eurocents. Train destination is Castello C6 four stops on the way.
Sagunto tourist office opens at 09.30 and duly stamped.
Lovely oleander and honeysuckle scents; orange trees gradually gave way to lemons, olives and even some tangerines and grapefruit. Spotted my first ever white mulberry.
So far an undemanding hike. Minimal elevation. Peace and quiet. Church steeples to guide you. Spanish perfection with that especial inland wonder and welcome to that strange breed ‘the peregrino’ sporting a scallop shell.
Accommodation is an issue. Thanks to Google maps I found a Hostal on the camino outside Sot de Ferrer. No availability online and no response to an email.
However, a canary coloured uniformed postmistress called on my behalf to Hostal Millan and secured a double room for single use at Euros 33. PERFECTO.

 

[peregrina2000]

Divine late night cheesecake (casera) with a glass of tinto!

Sorry to go off topic. I rarely eat dessert, but a couple of days ago in Muxia after a fabulous fish lunch, The waiter convinced me to try the homemade cheesecake. Cheesecake is a pretty standard and easy to make dessert, I’ve rarely had a bad one, but this one was out of this world delicious. I don’t know what was different about it but if you go to Muxia, give it a try. This is the place, Lonxa de Alvaro.

And sorry to take this post even further off-topic, but this is a favorite conversation between me and filly— there were zamburiñas on the menu. I asked where they were from and learned they were flown in from the Pacific Ocean and were obviously frozen. He told me that the same is true about lobsters, which are on almost every Gallego seafood restaurant menu. But he says they are no longer caught, or very rarely caught, in Galicia. So it pays to ask what’s local. My catch of the day fish was perfecto!

Back to the Sagunto. Wishing you a wonderful Camino and hoping that you’ll be able to post regularly.

 

[filly]

Lovely Laurie! There were Galician scallops at the Valencia central market, at a price, and no shell in sight so point well taken.
Two grim meals and one fab on Valencia itself.
Great first day. After lunch s delightful disaffected train track made east headway. 30 kms with no sweat and a great Euros 12 lunch inc bebida, postre y café!
Truckers stop is right on the camino is perfect. Clothes washed and bath soak thanks to ‘brought along’ drain plug!! LOL

 

[peregrina2000]

So, filly, what town are you sleeping in tonight? And where are you sleeping? You’re a trailblazer here, so you need to tell us your stages!

And I totally agree about those trucker stops. if you come across a restaurant with a ton of trucks parked outside, you could be pretty sure that it’s decent, no frills, homemade food.

 

[filly]

I stayed last night at Hostal Millan near Sot de Ferrer minutes off the trail.
Perfect at Euros 33.Big bed, quiet, private bathroom, towels aplenty, air con. Good food. Breakfast bar open at 06.30
Great day.
Good birdsong, scents of figs, went west around the embalse of Jerica on the lovely railway walk.
Slowly getting into rural Spain but the autovia is never far away.
Now in Jerica at 1pm. Found THE place to eat.
Afterwards I will totter to Viver where I have booked a two bed apartment for… Euros 33 from Señorita Pillar via booking.com
To be continued…

 

[filly]

 

[filly]

Señora Pilar at 11 Plaza de la Constitution.
Ideal. Central. Living room, kitchen etc.

 

[filly]

Jerica would have been a good space to explore. The food was EXEMPLARY. Serious eating. No dish of the day.. à la carte all the way.

Viver is really near but uphill. Quiet.

No idea yet where to stay tomorrow. I am way ahead as booked into Teruel for 21 May.

Walking much easier than anticipated. Way-making very good to passable. Wikiloc is highly recommended especially if you want to take alternatives.

I have not met a single hiker so far…

 

[filly]

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Wow, that's a heck of a day - respect!

 

[filly]

LOveryL! Actualy two day cumulative effort.
Still not great on Wikiloc… though I did manage to download all the relevant maps this year.
Accommodation issues already apparent.
Sarrion is proving difficult as the Hotel Alantaya is not responding. There is a possible roadside place beforehand used by cyclists but very unencouraging reviews.
As it is tomorrow I have booked off-piste at El Toro so an extra 6kms each way. Will report.
In retrospect Jerica would have been a better place to stay. Much more to explore than Viver.

The largest postbox ever! Buying stamps now a serious issue as Tabacos have given up and Correos offices are often hidden away. Allied to this is the dearth of yellow pillar postboxes

Viver with Jerica in background

 

[filly]

A great day so far. My destination is always LUNCH as that is my main meal.

At the truckers stop in Barracas. THEY NO LONGER DO ACCOMMODATION in spite of the sign. Hence 6 kms after lunch ‘off-piste’ to El Toro. At least it should be open tomorrow Sunday for some croissant and coffee!

Lunch looks great and great value.

First day of agricultural tracks. Total peace. Some uphill cardio work. Then back on the Via Verde. My first cherries! The agriculture has changed from almonds to rich soil and wheat/barley.

Always good to stop and look back - lovely lines of mountains

 

[filly]

To each, his own.

So pleased I was happy to hike 6 kms post luncheon to arrive at a great place. Quiet, comfortable and welcoming. Dinner (for once) will be superb and breakfast also booked.

Sorted accommodation for tomorrow. Way off-track again but the only place on the Camino sounds dire. Feet fine so happy to go the extra (few/many) miles.

I am not a glutton but I appreciate good food based on good local ingredients and prepared with care and pride.

This was the case with lunch. A truckers worthy of an ‘estrella’. Wood fired parillada. Good honest nutritious ingredients; good balance. A steal at Euros 17.50 plus coffee. Made the 6 kms easy…

In Barracas

In El Toro - Hotel Rural Los Abriles (booking.com at Euros 45 room only for single)

 

[filly]

 

[filly]

The day after tomorrow, then Teruel

Tomorrow night - off-piste so not sure if I will head back to Barracas or find another way. Some light rain forecast…

Both of these get excellent reviews.

 

[peregrina2000]

View attachment 170666View attachment 170667

You know, probably, that if you want to break this up into separate tracks day by day, all you have to do is hit “finish” and then give a name to the trail and save it. And it will go onto the list of “your trails” on your wikiloc profile page. And then the next day just start over with “record trail.” But you may have a reason to want it to be one long continuous track.

Thanks for all the updates, filly!

 

[filly]

You know, probably, that if you want to break this up into separate tracks day by day, all you have to do is hit “finish” and then give a name to the trail and save it. And it will go onto the list of “your trails” on your wikiloc profile page. And then the next day just start over with “record trail.” But you may have a reason to want it to be one long continuous track.

Thanks for all the updates, filly!

Bless! I need training!! Feel just happy that I managed to download the relevant maps.

Stop press! No water en route today. The embalse the other day was dangerously low.

ps are you back in Champaign?

 

[peregrina2000]

ps are you back in Champaign?

Yes, I got home yesterday, and I am in that post-camino flatness period. Your (and others’) live posts really are a great antidote!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

You know, probably, that if you want to break this up into separate tracks day by day, all you have to do is hit “finish” and then give a name to the trail and save it. And it will go onto the list of “your trails” on your wikiloc profile page. And then the next day just start over with “record trail.” But you may have a reason to want it to be one long continuous track.

Thanks for all the updates, filly!

Yes, about that….

When I posted this:

Wow, that's a heck of a day - respect!

I thought that this:

View attachment 170575

Was your day’s mileage!! Well, you did say you didn’t mind doing a few extra kms (for a comfy bed)

 

[filly]

Hotel Atalaya in Sarrion (where Alan Sykes stayed last autumn) finally answered my call… the hotel is ‘en reforma’ hence closed. This will obviously be the logical place to stay in future.

On another tack, I do recommend a very good read for hikers. I read it in French but have already bought several copies in English for hiker friends.

 

[filly]

Here is the latest coordinates of the Amigos of Sagunt as seen at the Tourist Office.

My Spanish is not good enough but maybe others inc @peregrina2000 will contact them.

 

[filly]

Safely in Manzarena. A few drops of rain and not the thunderous deluge forecast (though necessary). The next few days are due to be turbulent.

I am off-piste but delightfully so. What a fab place to stay! Amazing room with lift! I have the handicapped room - delighted. Lunch as from 14.00, cena at 21.00, breakfast arranged for 07.30

Dwarf oaks, euphorbia and some rosemary. Encountered the GR231 and even a ‘flecha amarilla’.

A short day with a long one tomorrow.

I met some Dutch cyclists who recommended their stay at Albentosa.

Sunday is always a difficult day for shops/restaurants/bars so here is ideal.

Thanks to Wililoc I will head off tomorrow off-piste on agricultural tracks to avoid Sarrion and the autovia altogether.

The traditional olde worlde hotel here is firmly closed..

 

[filly]

Interesting dinner last night - large tapas style. This is the land of jamon and cheese laced with truffle.

First sighting of poppies.

Some elevation and scree on the GR.

Just a lovely Spanish Sunday hike with minimal traffic and some cyclists.

 

[filly]

I forgot to give details of accommodation as experienced by a Dutch couple (on bikes) for reference..

 

[filly]

This is on the Via Verde de los Oyos Negres which is real draw for cyclists…