They have been so wonderful! And the restaurant at lunchtime with its menu del dia - I am hugely outnumbered by men who seem to be enjoying the solid, plain cooking in good quantities- Given I am Irish it's like many a locals type place at home geared for farmers (minus the mashed potatoes!). In...
Day 3 Sobrado to Friol on Camino verde
Enjoyed staying in the monastery in Sobrado, but was in bed before compline. Cool and breezy but sunnier today so a good day for a walk! The first half I followed the camino norte - it seemed to involve alot of road, or beside the road with a few sections...
Day 2 - on the Camino Norte- Goimil to Sobrado
So 10km on road this morning on the Norte alternative to reach Boimorto...lots of Norte pilgrims having coffee here. Then onwards to the albergue in monastery in Sobrado.
Much more manageable numbers of pilgrims giving me strange looks as I walk...
I have a slightly different plan - I'm going to Logrono and follow Iganciano/Ebro/Catalan caminos to Barcelona. Like pilgrims of old I am going to ship across the sea to Genoa in Italy- (Barcelona-Genoa ferry). I will have a few days on the Via della Costa before joining the VF which has pilgrim...
So having finished my camino from home over the last 4 years, this morning I set out from Santiago to head to Rome, a project that will probably take another few years!
Day 1 Santiago de Compostela to Goimil 31km
I headed out in silence from the city. Until I got to Vilamaior I met a handful of...
Before the VF was marked as a GR, which has quite strict rules, the VF in France was a little more freeform- generally moving between towns but with leeway on the route. I know one forum member forged a route using the canals. I had Raju's older Cicerone guide which had less quibbles about road...
It may be worth emailing them to find out.
I can't provide much help as I camped on the campsite in Hopitaux Neufs. But there used to be another hotel in Jougne - La Poste
https://www.hotel-restaurant-laposte1900.fr/hotel-hotel-restaurant-laposte-le-1900.php
It's been a few years since I walked. In France - I did stay in in monastery in St Thierry about 10km before Reims. I also did an old alternate route from Chateauvillain to Langres staying in St Loup sur Aujon with the sisters there -this was especially special for me!
The VF does require a little more thought, planning and independence but is a great pilgrim walk.
Gronze has accomodation listings
https://www.gronze.com/via-francigena
Also the official VF website has route and accommodation info
https://www.viefrancigene.org/en/
I had the Lightfoot guide walking the VF and the older Cicerone guide by Raju on my kindle but this has been replaced by a much more up to date guide by Sandy Brown - either are probably fine.
Its also possible to download GPX tracks to an offline map on you phone like map.me, organic maps etc...
I have walked the VF as far as northern Italy. I did camp a fair amount in France and Switzerland as it gave more options and reduced cost - but on a bike there is generally more ease in going an extra 10km than on foot to find suitable accommodation at a reasonable price. I only wild camped...
There are a couple of English guide books
(1) Cicerone
https://www.cicerone.co.uk/walking-the-via-francigena-pilgrim-route-part-3
(2) Lightfoot
https://pilgrimagepublications.com/pp_2014/via-francigena/
(3) terre de mezzo
https://www.terre.it/prodotto/the-via-francigena/
I have no...
There is a train station in Pontenure, otherwise its probably the hostel in Montale 5km before or the options in Valcanasso 5km after.
(I walked this section in winter and so walked the main rd rather than deal with doing river fords- as it was the weekend the road was okay and I stayed in...
I had a very warm welcome in January 2020 on a freezing foggy night, Pierluigi was unavailable but the lady sent in his stead was looking out into darkness for me, and made a fuss of my arrival. Very fond memories of this place!
Hi
Milan is a major rail junction and it'd fairly easy to take a train to a range of points on the VF. So a week could cover the Aosta valley or train to Fidenza and head over the mountains from there.
As for accomodation and a quick overview might be good to look at Gronze-...
Gronze has added the VF (Swiss and Italian sections) which is worth looking on for accomodation.
https://www.gronze.com/via-francigena
There is a YouTube series by Efren of sa daily log (lots and lots to watch!)
There have been a few blogs but it's been years since I had read any on the VF...
Camping makes life alot easier in France giving alot more options and reducing costs if you are prepared to carry a tent. But the rules on wild camping in France and Italy are different, with Italian ones more strigently against wild camping. There are more pilgrim accommodations in Italy. There...
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